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i.  BAEDEKER'S  GUIDE  BOOKS. 


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BELGIUM  and  HOLLAND,   with  6  Maps    and   15  Plans. 

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THE  RHINE  from  ROTTERDAM  to  CONSTANCE  (the 

Seven  Mountains,  Valley  op  the  Ahr,  Niederwald,  Moselle,  Vol- 
canic   ElFEL,    VOSGES    MTS.,    PALATINATE,    BLACK   FOREST,    etc.),     with 

15  Maps  " 

NORTHER 


■c:wu    t^j;*;. 


<S73. 


5  marks. 


New  Edi 

SOUTHERN 

EASTEE 
and  27  P 

NORTHER 

ANCONj 

THROUGH 

27  Plans 

CENTRAL 

a  Pauor 

SOUTHER 

LIPARI 


ROBERT  W.WOODRUFF 
LIBRARY 


Maps    and   27    Plans. 

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3RN,    FLORENCE, 

i,   and   Routes   to   Italy 

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1  Maps,  12  Plans,  and 

reparation.  6  marks. 

Excursions  to  the 

SARDINIA,  MALTA,  and 


CORFU,  with  7  Maps  and  8  Plans.   Sixth  Edition.    1877.      6  marks. 

PALESTINE  and  SYRIA,  with  18  Maps,  44  Plans,  1  Pano- 

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2  Maps  and  12  Plans.    Fifth  Edition.     1876.  5  marks. 

SWITZERLAND ,   and  the  adjacent  Parts  of  ITALY, 

SAVOY,  and  the  TYROL,  with  22  Maps,  10  Plans,  and  7  Panoramas. 
New  Edition  in  preparation.  6  marks. 

THE  TRAVELLER'S  MANUAL  OF  CONVERSATION  in 

English,  German,  French,  and  Italian.  Twenty  second  Edition.  1876. 

3  marks. 


January  1877. 


SOUTHERN  ITALY 


AND 


SICILY. 


COMPARATIVE  MONEY-TABLE. 

Approximate  Equivalents. 


It 

alian. 

American. 

E 

nglisb. 

Francs. 

Centesimi. 

Dollars.       Cents. 

Pounds. 

Shillings. 

Pence. 

'      5 

1 

'In 

— 

25 

— 

5 

— 

— 

2>, 

— 

50 

. — 

10 

— 

— 

5 

— 

75 

— 

15 

— 

— 

TU 

1 

— 

— 

20 

— 

— 

934 

2 

— 

— 

40 

— 

1 

7>, 

3 

— 

— 

60 



2 

5 

4 
5 
6 

— 

— 

80 

— 

3 

4 
4 

2'|2 

— 

20 



93|, 

7 

— 

40 

— 

5 

7'|2 

8 

— 

GO 

— 

6 

5 

9 

— 

80 

— 

7 

2i/2 

10 

— 

2 

— 

— 

8 

20 

— 

4 

— 



16 



25 

— 

5 

— 

1 

— . 



100 

~ 

20 

— 

4 

— 

— 

COMPARATIVE  TABLE 

of 

Neapolitan  and  Sicilian  Miglie  with  Kilometres 

and 

English  Miles. 


Neap.  Mi'jl. 

Kil. 

Engl.  M. 

Sicil.  Migl. 

Kil. 

Engl.  M. 

0,54 

1 

0,G2 

0,G7 

1 

0,62 

0,87 

1,61 

1 

1 

1,49 

0,92 

1 

1,85 

1,15 

1,08 

1,61 

1 

2 

3,71 

2,30 

2 

2,97 

1,84 

3 

5,5G 

3,45 

3 

4,46 

4 

7,42 

4,G0 

4 

5,94 

5 

9,27 

5,75 

5 

7,43 

4,cl 

6 

11,13 

6,90 

6 

8,92 

7 

12,98 

8,05 

7 

10,41 

6,45 

8 

14,84 

9,20 

8 

11,89 

7,37 

9 

16,69 

10,35 

9 

13,38 

10 

18,55 

11,50 

10 

14,87 

9*2 

Ov Paris  4 


8 

Km, 

riffVtv  dA* 


10 


45 


$cell? 


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Pdoou 


yenttij 


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GBS« 


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1  Id? 


!''>lx 


iltuTU^&a,       ^  &■ 


SfO 


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yRiantr*rf  €U#tit 


-  Libera    • 


G  E  J)T  o    V  A 


"     .. 


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C  Corso 


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J^Ullma.' 


41 


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40 


39 


38 


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M.  ''^C.i         >?■•'  F>'*W--   ^fc,    J'V- 


J/onaxnrto 


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42 


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41 


^  * 


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Jfczetta  ° 


3^ 


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*'<    «    i    1;  i    fe>  a" 


'cupmyro  JT  If    O    /    I    O     CrallifioH* 


lofaoro 


40 


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^ 


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lia'e 


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J(firtSr»»w 


39 


1  e 

TiluM.aU       i>!/lina      •  \,.\ou*»wi 


SJjjpari 


C.  S.Tito 


S  lH;J 


L        I 


rf/ 


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Tra 


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Zeoam.zo  "  6V 


i*fiS.£iu/iajrt0  ^y/ 


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54.LERMO 
Tjerntirii 


ciW>  of 


,<;*>4. 


Patti  '   ftarctfyn 


o(aroni«n     ' 

eMnom 
>     /I 

a* 


Ru  zj.Xqctv 


38 


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(inpidolo 


'  Sciacoit 

o 


'#»«*}£ 


•  4jilta 


(hsfrttout 


Gir«'fT 


re«H/rzi 


4  % 


'antellai 


Susa 

"^■■■■Vi'.'.' 


XicaiS- 


tasut> 
/^iracusa 

'  in 


CARTA 


Scale  nel  1 : 3,000,000 


*o         3o         M         *»         &  *" 

—t.i  i  i      i  ' 


JO  #o  Mig  lir  fuT&OJie 


so        r* 


so        too  JTrujfeA  miles 


rsJtfjrriamifrej 


3 


_Ztnjosa.-- 


\^S^§     6t*i   VtcM^  l^ittaValetta 

■ 


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CUt  n  &r-u-nh    _ilL.«»lt  Tt». 


26 


11 


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29 


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32 


33 


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34 


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(J'irosca/t^ 


35 


WaftMEr  t  Tielea  T. 


ITALY. 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

BY 

K.    BAEDEKER. 


THIRD    PART: 

SOUTHERN  ITALY  AND  SICILY, 

with  excursions  to  the 

LIPARI  ISLANDS,  MALTA,  SARDINIA,  TUNIS,  AND  CORFU. 

With  8  Maps  and  12  Plans. 


Sixth  Edition,  Remodelled  and  Augmented. 


LEIPSIC:   KARL  BAEDEKER. 

LONDON:   DULAU  AND  CO.  37.   SOHO  SQUARE,   W. 

1876. 

All  Rights  Reserved. 


'Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call, 
Ihee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.' 

CHAUCER. 


PREFACE. 


Ihe  Handbook  for  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily  is  intended 
to  supply  the  traveller  with  information  which  will  render 
him  as  nearly  as  possible  independent  of  the  services  of 
guides ,  valets-de-place,  and  others  of  the  same  class ;  to 
afford  him  some  idea  of  the  progress  of  civilisation  and  art 
among  the  people  with  whom  he  is  about  to  become  ac- 
quainted ;  and  thus  to  enable  him  to  realise  to  the  fullest 
extent  the  enjoyment  and  instruction  to  be  derived  from 
his  tour.  The  Editor  will  endeavour  to  accompany  the  en- 
lightened traveller  through  the  streets  of  the  more  important 
towns ,  and  to  all  the  principal  edifices  and  works  of  art ; 
to  pilot  his  steps  amidst  the  exquisite  scenery  described  in 
the  following  pages ;  and  to  point  out  the  manner  in  which 
the  chief  objects  of  interest  may  be  visited  with  the  greatest 
economy  of  time,  money,  and,  in  a  country  where  the  pa- 
tience is  often  so  severely  tried,  it  may  be  added,  temper. 

The  Handbook  is  based  on  the  Editor's  personal  ex- 
perience of  the  places  described  ;  but,  as  changes  of  various 
kinds  are  constantly  taking  place,  he  will  highly  appreciate 
any  bond  Jide  information  with  which  travellers  may  favour 
him.  That  already  received,  which  in  many  instances  has 
been  most  serviceable,  he  gratefully  acknowledges. 

The  present  edition  has  been  amplified,  revised,  and  re- 
modelled down  to  the  beginning  of  1876,  and  the  information 
regarding  Naples  and  its  environs  in  particular  has  been 
carefully  verified.  For  the  description  of  Pompeii  the  Editor 
is  indebted  to  Prof.  Nissen  of  Marburg.  The  article  on 
Ancient  Art  by  Prof.  R.  KekuU  of  Bonn  has  been  adapted 
for  the  use  of  English  travellers  with  the  kind  assistance 


VI  PREFACE. 

of  Mr.  J.  A.  Crowe,  author  of  a  'New  History  of  Painting 
in  Italy',  and  will  be  found  suggestive  by  the  traveller  when 
visiting  the  museum  of  Naples  or  the  ruins  of  Pompeii.  The 
insertion  of  excursions  to  the  Lipari  Islands,  Malta,  Sardinia, 
Tunis  (Carthage),  and  Corfu  (Athens)  does  not  add  materi- 
ally to  the  bulk  of  the  volume,  and  will  be  acceptable  to 
many  travellers. 

The  Maps  and  Plans,  which  have  been  carefully  re- 
vised for  the  present  edition,  and  several  of  which  are  en- 
tirely new,  will  suffice  for  the  use  of  all  ordinary  travellers. 

Heights  are  given  in  English  feet. 

Distances  are  generally  given  in  English  miles.  As, 
however,  the  kilometre,  the  old  Italian  miglio,  and  the  Si- 
cilian miglio  are  occasionally  mentioned,  the  traveller  is 
referred  to  the  comparative  table  at  the  beginning  of  the 
volume  for  their  respective  values. 

Populations  are  given  according  to  the  last  census 
(1871).  As  that  of  some  of  the  towns  will  perhaps  strike 
the  traveller  as  being  overstated,  it  many  be  explained  that 
the  numbers  apply  not  merely  to  the  towns  topographically, 
but  to  the  whole  neighbourhood  which  politically  belongs 
to  the  same  commune  or  district. 

Hotels.  In  no  country  does  the  treatment  which  the 
traveller  experiences  at  hotels  vary  so  much  as  in  Italy, 
and  attempts  at  extortion  are  perhaps  nowhere  so  out- 
rageous. The  inns  of  S.  Italy  and  Sicily,  with  the  exception 
of  those  of  Naples  and  a  few  other  towns,  are  sadly  behind 
the  requirements  of  the  age;  but  the  Editor  has  indicated 
by  asterisks  those  which  he  has  reason  to  consider  compar- 
atively respectable ,  clean ,  and  reasonable.  The  charges 
in  the  most  frequented  places  have  a  constant  tendency  to 
rise,  but  those  of  the  last  few  years  are  approximately 
stated  in  the  Handbook  for  the  traveller's  guidance. 


CONTENTS. 


Introduction.  „ 

Page 

I.   Travelling  Expenses.     Money xi 

II.  Period  of  Tour.     Language xin 

III.  Passports.     Custom-house.     Luggage        ....  xiv 

IV.  Public  Safety.     Begging xiv 

V.  Intercourse  with  Italians xv 

VI.   Conveyances xvn 

VII.  Hotels xx 

VIII.  Restaurants,  Cafes,   etc xxi 

IX.  Theatres,   Shops,  etc xxn 

X.  Reckoning  of  Time         xxni 

XI.  Postal  Arrangements xxiv 

XII,  Climate.     Mode  of  Life xxiv 

XIII.  History  of  Ancient  Art,  by  Prof.  R.  Kekule  .     .  xxvi 

t.    !  Routes. 

Route 

1 .  From  Rome  to  Naples  by  Railway 1 

2.  From  Rome  to  Naples  by  the  Pontine  Marshes,  Terracina, 

Gaeta,  and  Capua 11 

3.  From  Leghorn  and  Civita  Vecchia  (Rome)  to  Naples  (by 

Sea) 19 

4.  Naples 21 

Preliminary  Observations : 

Arrival.     Hotels,  Pensions,  Restaurants,  Cafes  etc.  .         21 — 24 

Bankers.     Consuls 24 

Carriages,  omnibuses,  boats.  —  Baths 25,  26 

Climate,  physicians,  etc 27 

Shops 27 

Theatres.    Post  Office,  Telegraph  Office.    Railways,  Steam- 
boats        28 

Traffic.     Newspapers.    Festivals 29 

English  Church 30 

Duration  of  Stay  and  Disposition  of  Time 30 

History  and  Art 31 

Remarks  on  the  Situation  and  Characteristics  of  Naples  35 
I.  Side  next  the  Sea,  to  the  E.  of  the  Pizzofalcone  .  38 
Castello  deir  Ovo.  S.  Lucia.  Piazza  del  Plebiscito.  S.  Fran- 
cesco di  Paola.  Palazzo  Reale.  Teatro  San  Carlo.  Municipio. 
S.  Giacomo  degli  Spagnuoli.  Fontana  Medina.  Castel  Kuovo. 
The  Harbours.  Lighthouse.  S.  Maria  del  Carmine.  Piazza 
del  Mercato. 

II.    Toledo.    Capodimonte 45 

Piazza   de'  Martiri.     Strada   di   Chiaja.     Toledo.      Catacombs. 
Palazzo    di   Capodimonte.     Observatory.     Strada  Foria. 


VIII  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

III.  The  Old  Town.     E.  Quarters,   between  the  Toledo  and 

the  Harbour 49 

Llncoronata.     Palazzo  Fondi.    S.  Maria  la  Nuova.    Post  Office. 

S.  Anna  de'  Lombardi.  Gesii  Nuovo.  Sta.  Chiara.  S.  Do- 
menico.  S.  Severo.  S.  Angelo  a  Nilo.  University.  S.  Se- 
verino  e  Sosio.  Palazzo  Santangelo.  Castel  Capuano.  Ceme- 
teries. S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara.  Cathedral.  Sta.  Restituta. 
S.  Filippo  Neri.  S.  Paolo  Maggiore.  S.  Lorenzo.  S.  Pietro 
a  Maiella.     Conservatory  of  Music. 

IV.  The  Museum        62 

V.   Modem    Quarters   —    The  Chiaja,     Villa   Nazionale, 

Corso   Vittorio  Emanuele.   —   Castel  S.   Elmo        .  78 

Riviera  di  Chiaja.     Villa   Nazionale.     Aquarium.     Mergellina. 
Chiesa  del  Sannazaro.      Strada  di  Piedigrotta.     Virgil's  Tomb. 
Grotta    di    Posilipo.     Strada    dell'    Infrascata.     Corso   Vittorio 
Emanuele.     S.  Martino.     Castel  S.  Elmo. 
Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo.     Hill  of  Posilipo.     Camaldoli       84 

5.  Western  Environs  of  Naples  —  Pozzuoli,  Baiae,  Misenum, 

Cum® 88 

6.  Procida  and  Ischia 101 

7.  From  Naples  to  Pompeii  (and  Salerno).    Hercnlaneum. 

La  Favorita 106 

8.  Mount  Vesuvius        110 

9.  Pompeii 118 

10.  Castellamare,   Sorrento,  and  Capri 143 

11.  From  Naples  to  Salerno,   Psestum,  and  Amalfl     .     .     .     155 

1.  Corpo  di  Cava 157 

2.  From  Amalfl  to  Sorrento 166 

12.  From  Naples  to  Nola  and  Avellino 167 

E.  and  S.  Districts  or  S.  Italy. 

13.  From  Ancona  to  Foggia  (Brindisi) 170 

14.  From  (Ancona)  Foggia  to  Naples 176 

15.  From  (Ancona)  Pescara  to  Solmona  and  Naples  through 

the  Abruzzi 180 

16.  From  Terni  to  Aquila  and  Solmona  through  the  Abruzzi  182 

17.  From  Aquila  to  Avezzano  and  Roccasecca  (Naples)     .      .  185 

18.  From  Foggia  to  Brindisi  and  the  Apulian  Peninsula  .      .  190 

19.  From  (Naples)  Eboli   to    the  Coast    of   the  Adriatic  by 

Eboli,  Potenza,  Melfl,  and  Venosa 196 

20.  From  (Naples)  Eboli  to  Reggio 199 

21.  From  Bari  to  Taranto 204 

22.  From  Taranto  to  Reggio 207 

Sicily. 

General  Remarks 213 

Geography  and  Statistics 215 

Historical  Notice 217 

1.  Political  History 217 

2.  History  of  Civilisation  and  Art 221 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Route  Page 

23.  From  Naples  to  Sicily 226 

A.  To  Messina 226 

B.  To  Palermo 228 

24.  Palermo 229 

25.  Environs  of  Palermo 240 

a.  La  Cuba.     Monreale.     S.  Martino.     La  Zisa       .     .  240 

b.  Monte  Pellegrino.     The  Favorita 243 

c.  The  Bagaria.     Solunto 244 

d.  S.  Maria'  di  Gesii 245 

Island  of  Ustica 24:) 

26.  From  Palermo  to  Segesta,  Castelvetrano,  and  Selinunto  246 

27.  From  Palermo  to  Segesta,  Trapani,  Marsala,  and  Castel- 

vetrano    251 

1.  Island  of  Pantellaria 253 

2.  S.  Pantaleo.  Motya 254 

28.  From  Castelvetrano  (Selinunto)  to  Girgenti  ....  256 

From  Palermo  to  Sciacca  by  Corleone 257 

29.  From  Palermo  to  Girgenti 258 

30.  Girgenti 260 

31.  Inland  Route  from  Palermo  to  Catania 265 

1.  Eoad  from  Leonforte  to  Catania 268 

2.  From  Castrogiovanni  to  Catania  by  Caltagirone   .       .      .  270 

32.  From  Girgenti  to  Gastrogiovanni  (and  Catania)  by  Calta- 

nissetta 271 

33.  From  Girgenti  to  Syracuse  by  Palma,  Licata,  Terrannova, 

Modica  (Val  d'Ispica),  and  Palazzolo 272 

From  Modica  to  Syracuse  by  Noto 277 

34.  From  Palermo  to  Messina  by  the  Coast 277 

From  Termini  to  Leonforte 283 

35.  Messina 284 

36.  The  Lipari  Islands 291 

37.  From  Messina  to  Catania.    Taormina 294 

From  Taormina  to  Catania  by  Aderno 301 

38.  Catania 302 

39.  Mount  .Etna 307 

40.  From  Catania  to  Syracuse 313 

41.  Syracuse 315 


42.  Excursion  to  Malta        328 

43.  Sardinia 331 

a.  Cagliari  and  Environs 335 

b.  From  Cagliari  to  Sassari 338 

c.  Sassari.     Porto  Torres 341 

d.  From  Cagliari    to    Nuoro,    with  Excursions    into    the 

Mountains  of  La  Barbagia 343 

44.  Excursion  to  Tunis.     Carthage 344 


X  CONTENTS. 

Route  Page 

45.   Excursion  to  Athens 350 

a.  From  Naples  to  the  Piraeus 352 

b.  From  Brindisi  to  the  Piraeus  by  Corfu  and  the  Isthmus 

of  Corinth 353 

Index 358 

Maps. 

1.  Map  of  Italy,  facing  title-page. 

'2.  Map  of  the  "W.  Environs  of  Naples,  between  pp.  88,  89. 

3.  General  Map  of  the  Environs  op  Naples,  between  p.  100. 
101. 

4.  Map  of  the  Peninsula  of  Sorrento,  between  p.  142,   143. 

5.  Map  of  Sicily,  with  Malta  and  Tunis,    at  the  end  of  the 
book. 

6.  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Palermo,  between  pp.  240,  241. 

7.  Map  of  jEtna,  between  pp.  306,  307. 

8.  Map  of  Sardinia,  between  pp.  330,  331. 

Flans. 

1.  Plan  of  Naples,  between  pp.  20,  21. 

2.  Plan  of  the  Museo  Nazionale,  pp.  62  and  72. 

3.  Plan  of  the  Environs  of  Pozzuoli,  p.  91. 

4.  Plan  of  Pompeii,  between  pp.  118,   119. 

5.  Plan  of  a  Pompeian  House,  p.  123. 

6.  Plan  of  Taranto  and  Environs,  p.  205. 

7.  Plan  of  the  District  of  Metapontum,  p.  208. 

8.  Plan  of  Palermo,  between  pp.  228,  229. 

9.  Plan  of  Girgenti,  between  pp.  260,  261. 

10.  Plan  of  Messina  and  Environs,  between  pp.  284,  285. 

11.  Plan  of  Taormina  and  Environs,  p.  296. 

12.  Plan  of  Syracuse  and  Environs,  between  pp.  314,  315. 

Abbreviations. 

N.  S.  E.  W.  =  north,  northern,  northwards;  south,  etc.; 
east,   etc. ;  west,  etc. 

M.  =  Engl.  mile.     R.  =  bedroom.     B.  =  breakfast. 

D.  =  dinner.  W.  =  wine.  S.  =  supper.  L.  =  light. 
A.   =  attendance. 

r.   =  right.     1.   =  left.     hr.   =  hour.     min.   =  minute. 

Asterisks 
are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


INTRODUCTION. 


■  "Thou  art  the  garden  of  the  world,  the  home 
Of  all  Art  yields,  and  Nature  can  decree ; 
E'en  in  thy  desert,  what  is  like  to  theeV 
Thy  very  weeds  are  beautiful,  thy  waste 
More  rich  than  other  climes'  fertility, 
Thy  wreck  a  glory,  and  thy  ruin  graced 
With  an  immaculate  charm   which  cannot  be  defaced." 

Byron. 

From  the  earliest  ages  down  to  the  present  time  Italy  has 
possessed  powerful  attractions  for  the  denizens  of  more  northern 
lands,  and  a  journey  thither  has  often  been  the  fondly  cherished 
wish  of  many  an  aspiring  traveller.  At  the  present  day  that  wish 
may  be  gratified  with  comparative  facility.  Northern  Italy  is  now 
connected  by  a  direct  railway  with  the  southern  part  of  the 
peninsula ,  including  Naples  and  Brindisi ,  and  the  approaching 
completion  of  a  great  network  of  other  lines  will  soon  enable  the 
traveller  to  penetrate  into  the  interior  of  provinces  hitherto  un- 
trodden by  the  ordinary  tourist.  A  uniform  monetary  system  has 
superseded  the  numerous  and  perplexing  varieties  of  coinage  for- 
merly in  use;  the  passport  and  custom-house  annoyances  have 
been  greatly  mitigated ;  and  energetic  measures  have  been  adopted 
in  order  to  put  an  end  to  the  extortions  of  vetturini,  facchini, 
and  other  members  of  this  irritating  class.  Persons  in  search 
of  adventure  and  excitement  will  now  miss  many  of  the  charac- 
teristic elements  of  former  Italian  travel,  but  those  who  desire  the 
more  rational  enjoyments  derived  from  scenery ,  art ,  or  science 
will  not  fail  to  rejoice  in  the  altered  state  of  the  country. 

I.     Travelling  Expenses.     Money. 

Expenses.  The  cost  of  a  tour  in  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily 
depends  of  course  on  the  traveller's  means  and  habits,  but  it  may 
be  stated  generally  that  his  expenses  need  not  exceed  those  in- 
curred in  the  more  frequented  parts  of  the  continent.  The  average 
expenditure  of  a  single  traveller  may  be  estimated  at  25-30  francs 
per  day,  or  about  half  that  sum  when  a  prolonged  stay  is  made 
at  one  place,  while  those  who  are  acquainted  with  the  language 
and  habits  of  the  country  may  reduce  their  expenses  to  still  nar- 
rower limits.  Persons  travelling  as  members  of  a  party  also  effect 
a  considerable  saving  by  sharing  the  expense  of  guides,  carriages, 
and  other  items.    When,   however,  ladies  are  of  the  party,  the  ex- 


XII  MONEY. 

penses  are  always  unavoidably  greater ;  not  merely  because  the 
better  hotels,  and  the  more  comfortable  modes  of  travelling  are  se- 
lected, but  because  the  Italians  assume  the  traveller  in  this  case 
to  be  wealthier,   and  therefore  a  more  fitting  object  for  extortion. 

Money.  The  French  monetary  system  is  now  used  throughout 
the  whole  of  Italy.  The  franc  (lira  or  franco)  contains  100 
centesimi ;  1  fr.  25  c.  =  1  s.  =  1  German  mark  =  1/2  Austrian 
florin.  A  piece  of  5  c.  is  called  a  soldo  (or  sou),  andas  the  lower 
classes  often  keep  their  accounts  in  soldi,  the  traveller  may  find 
it  useful  to  familiarise  himself  with  this  mode  of  reckoning.  See 
also  the  Money  Table,   opposite  the  title-page. 

Banknotes.  Since  the  introduction  of  a  paper  currency  during 
the  war  of  1866 ,  at  a  compulsory  rate  of  exchange,  gold  and 
silver  coins  have  almost  entirely  disappeared  from  ordinary  cir- 
culation ,  and  bulky  bundles  of  small  notes  have  taken  their 
place.  For  these  the  purses  used  in  most  other  countries  are 
of  course  unsuitable,  but  one  adapted  for  the  purpose  may  be 
purchased  in  Italy  for  V/%  —  2  fr.  ;  in  addition  to  which  a 
strong  pouch  for  copper  will  be  found  useful.  A  law  passed 
in  1874  for  the  regulation  of  the  paper  currency  restricts  the 
right  of  issuing  notes  to  six  of  the  principal  banks  in  the  country, 
viz.  the  Banca  Nazionale,  Banca  Nazionale  Toscana,  Banca  Toscana 
Industriale  e  Commerciale ,  Banca  Romana,  Banca  di  Napoli,  and 
Banca  di  Sicilia,  the  most  important  for  S.  Italy  being  the  Banca 
di  Napoli  and  the  Banca  Nazionale ,  and  for  Sicily  the  Banca  di 
Sicilia.  At  present  'Biglietti  Consorziali' ,  or  notes  for  joint  account 
of  the  six  banks  are  issued,  which  are  destined  to  replace  the  notes 
of  the  single  banks. 

Exchange.  Gold  and  silver  are  worth  considerably  more  than 
Italian  banknotes  of  nominally  the  same  value.  In  1876  the 
gain  in  exchanging  the  precious  metals,  or  English  banknotes  or 
circular  notes,  for  Italian  paper  was  12-15  per  cent,  while  con- 
versely the  loss  was  15-18  per  cent.  A  napoleon,  for  example, 
realised  22i/2-23  fr.,  and  a  sovereign  28-283/4  fr.  If  the  trav- 
eller makes  a  payment  in  gold  he  is  of  course  entitled  to  de- 
cline receiving  banknotes  in  exchange,  unless  the  difference  in 
value  be  taken  into  account.  In  exchanging  gold  or  English 
notes  for  Italian  paper  at  a  money-changer's  ('cambia  valuta?), 
notes  of  convenient  amount  and  of  the  district  about  to  be  vi- 
sited should  be  stipulated  for.  Those  money-changers  who  pub- 
licly exhibit  a  list  of  the  current  rates  of  exchange  are  the 
most   satisfactory.     Dirty  or   town    notes  should  be   declined. 

Best  Money  for  the  Tour.  Before  entering  Italy,  the  traveller 
should  obtain  a  moderate  supply  of  French  Gold  (one  Napoleon 
=  22-23  fr.  in  paper),  which  is  procured  in  England ,  France,  or 
Germany  on  more  advantageous  terms  than  in  Italy.  Sovereigns  and 
and  Bank  of  England  notes  (one  pound  =  271/2-281/2  fr.  in  paper) 


PLAN  OF  TOUR.  Mil 

are  received  at  their  full  value  by  most  of  the  hotel-keepers,  as 
well  as  by  the  money-changers  in  the  principal  towns  and  resorts 
of  travellers,  but  not  in  remote  districts.  The  Circular  Notes 
issued  by  the  English  banks  are  very  convenient  for  the  transport 
of  large  sums,  and  always  realise  the  full  current  exchange. 

II.    Period  of  Tour.     Language. 

Season.  The  season  selected  must  of  course  depend  on  the 
traveller's  convenience ,  but  the  best  time  for  Naples ,  and  par- 
ticularly for  other  parts  of  S.  Italy  and  Sicily  is  spring,  from  the 
end  of  March  to  the  end  of  May,  or  autumn ,  from  the  middle 
of  September  to  the  end  of  November.  The  rainy  winter  months 
had  better  be  devoted  to  Rome.  The  hot  season  may  be  spent 
at  some  of  the  charming  summer  resorts  in  the  environs  of  Na- 
ples, such  as  Sorrento ,  Castellamare ,  Ischia,  and  La  Cava,  but 
is  unfavourable  for  travelling  in  the  South  of  Italy.  The 
scenery  indeed  is  then  in  perfection ,  and  the  long  days  are 
hailed  with  satisfaction  by  the  enterprising  traveller ;  but  he  will 
soon  experience  the  enervating  effects  of  exposure  to  the  fierce 
rays  of  an  Italian  sun.  These  effects  are  produced,  not  so  much  by 
the  intensity,  as  by  the  protracted  duration  of  the  heat,  the  sky 
being  frequently  cloudless,  and  not  a  drop  of  rain  falling  for  several 
months  in  succession ,  until  the  first  showers  of  autumn  again 
refresh  the  parched  atmosphere  about  the  end  of  August. 

At  p.  31  the  traveller  will  find  various  plans  for  excursions 
in  the  environs  of  Naples ,  and  at  p.  214  are  others  for  a  tour 
in  Sicily.  The  other  districts  described  in  the  Handbook  are 
rarely  visited  by  ordinary  tourists ,  but  those  who  desire  to  ex- 
plore them,  whether  in  search  of  the  picturesque,  or  for  scien- 
tific purposes,  will  have  no  difficulty  in  framing  an  itinerary. 

Language.  The  time  and  labour  which  the  traveller  has 
bestowed  on  the  study  of  Italian  at  home  will  be  amply  repaid 
as  he  proceeds  on  his  journey,  and  more  particularly  in  Southern 
Italy  and  Sicily.  It  is  quite  possible  to  travel  in  the  regions 
around  Naples  and  Palermo  with  a  knowledge  of  a  little  French 
only,  but  in  this  case  the  traveller  cannot  conveniently  deviate 
from  the  beaten  track,  and  is  moreover  constantly  exposed  to  gross 
extortion.  Those ,  therefore ,  who  desire  to  derive  instruction 
from  their  tour  and  to  confine  their  expenditure  within  moderate 
limits  will  find  a  slight  acquaintance  with  the  languagef  of  the 
country  indispensable. 


t  'Baedeker's  Manual  of  Conversation  in  four  Languages  (English, 
French,  German,  and  Italian),  with  Vocabulary,  etc.''  (Stereot.  Edit.)  will 
be  found  serviceable  for  this  purpose.  With  the  addition  of  a  pocket-dic- 
tionary, the  traveller  may  safely  encounter  the  difficulties  of  the  situation. 
—  In  addressing    persons  of  the  educated  classes  'lei',   with   the  3rd  pers. 


XIV  LANGUAGE. 

III.     Passports.    Custom-house.    Luggage. 

Passpoets.  Passports  are  not  required  in  Italy,  but  it  is  un- 
wise not  to  be  provided  with  one  of  these  documents,  as  it  may 
occasionally  prove  useful.  Registered  letters,  for  example,  are  not 
delivered  to  strangers  unless  they  exhibit  a  passport  as  a  guar- 
antee of  their  identity.  In  the  remote  districts,  too,  where  the 
public  safety  still  demands  rigorous  supervision,  especially  in  the 
southern  provinces ,  the  traveller  who  cannot  show  his  creden- 
tials is  liable  to  detention.  The  Italian  police  authorities,  how- 
ever, will  be  found  uniformly  civil  and  obliging. 

Custom  House.  The  examination  of  luggage  which  takes 
place  at  the  Italian  custom  -  houses  on  the  arrival  of  the  traveller 
by  land  or  sea ,  even  when  the  vessel  has  come  from  another 
Italian  port ,  is  usually  very  lenient.  Tobacco  and  cigars  are 
the  articles  most  sought  for.  The  '  dazio  consumo ' ,  or  mu- 
nicipal tax  levied  on  comestibles  in  most  of  the  Italian  towns, 
seldom  of  course  requires  to  be  paid  by  ordinary  travellers.  An 
assurance  that  their  luggage  contains  nothing  liable  to  duty  gen- 
erally suffices  to  prevent  detention. 

Luggage.  If  possible,  luggage  should  never  be  sent  to  Italy 
by  goods'  train,  and  then  only  through  the  medium  of  a  trustworthy 
goods'  agent,  to  whom  the  keys  must  be  forwarded.  As  a  rule 
the  traveller  will  find  it  advisable,  and  less  expensive,  never  to 
part  from  his  luggage ,  and  to  superintend  the  custom-house 
examination   in  person. 

IV.  Public  Safety.  Begging. 
Travelling  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Naples  and  many  other 
regions  of  Southern  Italy  is  now  hardly  attended  with  greater 
hazard  than  in  any  of  the  northern  European  countries.  The 
traveller  may,  however,  be  reminded  of  the  risk  of  taking  up 
his  quarters  for  the  night  in  inferior  or  little  frequented  inns 
in  large  towns,  and  Naples  in  particular  is  notorious  for  dangers 
of  this  kind.  Most  of  the  high  roads  ,  and  even  the  less  fre- 
quented districts ,  may  also  be  pronounced  safe ,  especially  for 
unpretending  travellers.  Temporary  associations  of  freebooters 
are  indeed  occasionally  formed,  even  in  the  most  secure  districts, 
for  some  predatory  enterprise,  but  the  attacks  of  such  bands  are 
generally  directed  against  wealthy  inhabitants  of  the  country, 
who  are  known  to  be  travelling  with  large  sums  of  money,  and 
seldom    against   strangers ,    with  whose    movements    and    finances 


PUBLIC  SAFETY.  XV 

such  marauders  are  not  likely  to  be  acquainted.  Travellers, 
however ,  especially  when  accompanied  by  ladies ,  should  not 
neglect  the  ordinary  precaution  of  asking  for  information  as  to 
the  safety  of  the  roads  from  the  gensdarmes  ('earabinieri' ,  ge- 
nerally respectable  and  trustworthy)  and  other  authorities. 

The  Brigantaggio,  properly  so  called,  is  a  local  evil,  which 
it  is  always  easy  to  avoid.  Owing  to  the  revolution  of  1860  it 
had  increased  in  the  Neapolitan  provinces  to  an  alarming  extent. 
The  Italian  Government  has  done  its  utmost  to  remove  this 
national  scourge,  and  its  efforts  have  in  a  great  measure  been 
successful;  but  the  evil  still  resembles  the  smouldering  of  an 
imperfectly  extinguished  conflagration,  which  from  time  to  time 
bursts  forth  anew.  The  only  notoriously  bad  districts  are  now 
some  parts  of  Calabria  and  Latium,  and  Sicily  (p.  214) ;  but  even 
in  the  most  dangerous  localities  those  who  adopt  the  ordinary 
precautions  and  have  some  acquaintance  with  the  language  may 
travel  with  tolerable  safety.  Weapons  cannot  legally  be  carried 
without  a  licence.  For  the  ordinary  traveller  they  are  a  mere 
burden,  and  in  the  case  of  a  rencontre  with  brigands  they  only 
serve  greatly  to  increase  the  danger. 

Begging.  Mendicancy,  which  was  countenanced  and  encour- 
aged by  the  old  system  of  Italian  politics,  still  continues  to  be 
one  of  those  national  nuisances  to  which  the  traveller  must  habit- 
uate himself.  At  Naples  the  evil  has  been  to  a  great  extent 
suppressed  under  the  new  regime ,  but  in  many  of  the  small 
towns  it  is  still  as  rife  as  ever.  The  best  mode  of  getting  rid 
of  importunate  applicants  is  to  bestow  a  donation  of  2  c.  or  at 
most  5c,  or  else  firmly  to  decline  giving  with —  'niente',  or  a 
gesture  of  disapproval. 

V.     Intercourse  with  Italians. 

Travelling  in  Italy,  and  particularly  in  the  southern  pro- 
vinces, differs  essentially  in  some  respects  from  that  in  France, 
Germany,  and  Switzerland,  chiefly  owing  to  the  almost  invariable 
necessity  for  bargaining  with  innkeepers ,  cab-drivers,  boatmen, 
and  others  of  similar  craft.  The  system  of  fixed  prices  is  being 
gradually  introduced,  but  it  gains  ground  much  more  slowly  in 
Southern  than  in  Northern  and  Central  Italy. 

The  traveller  is  regarded  by  the  classes  in  question  as  their 
natural  and  legitimate  prey.  Deception  and  imposition  are 
considered  very  venial  offences  by  Italians  of  the  lower  orders, 
and  they  regard  success  in  these  arts  as  a  proof  of  superior 
sagacity.  The  traveller  who  complacently  submits  to  extortion 
is  therefore  less  respected  than  one  who  stoutly  resists  barefaced 
attempts  upon  his  credulity.  Among  the  Swiss  Mountains  the 
judicious  traveller  knows  well  when  to  share  the  contents  of  his 
cigar-case  or  spirit-flask  with  his  guide  ;   but  in  this  country  such 


XVI  INTERCOURSE  WITH  ITALIANS. 

amiable  manifestations  are  only  calculated  to  awaken  greater  cu- 
pidity and  discontent. 

On  the  principal  routes,  and  especially  in  Naples,  the  insolence 
of  this  mercenary  fraternity  has  attained  to  such  an  unexampled 
pitch,  that  the  traveller  is  often  tempted  to  doubt  whether  such 
a  thing  as  honesty  is  known  in  Italy;  but  a  more  intimate  acquain- 
tance with  the  people  and  their  habits  will  satisfy  him  that  his 
misgivings  apply  to  the  above  classes  only,  and  not  to  the  com- 
munity generally. 

In  Italy  the  pernicious  custom  of  demanding  considerably  more 
than  will  ultimately  be  accepted  is  universal;  but  a  knowledge 
of  the  custom ,  which  is  based  upon  the  presumed  ignorance  of 
one  of  the  contracting  parties,  tends  greatly  to  mitigate  the  evil. 
Where  tariffs  and  fixed  charges  exist ,  they  should  be  carefully 
consulted.  In  other  cases  where  an  average  price  is  established  by 
custom,  the  traveller  should  make  a  precise  bargain  with  respect 
to  the  service  to  be  rendered,  and  never  rely  on  the  equity  of 
the  other  party.  The  preliminaries  of  a  bargain  once  adjusted, 
the  traveller  will  often  find  the  people  with  whom  he  has  to 
deal  more  trustworthy  than  he  anticipated. 

Individuals  who  appeal  to  the  generosity  of  the  stranger,  or  to 
their  own  honesty ,  or  who ,  as  rarely  happens,  are  offended  by 
manifestations  of  distrust,  may  well  be  answered  in  the  words  of 
the  proverb,  lpatti  chiari,  amicizia  lung  a  .  In  the  following 
pages  the  average  prices  of  hotel  accommodation  and  other  items 
are  stated  with  all  possible  accuracy ,  and  although  liable  to 
fluctuation ,  will  often  prove  a  safeguard  against  gross  extortion. 
The  equanimity  of  the  traveller's  own  temper  will  greatly  assist 
him  if  involved  in  a  dispute  or  bargain ,  and  he  should  pay  no 
attention  whatever  to  vehement  gesticulations  or  an  offensive 
demeanour.  The  slighter  his  knowledge  of  the  Italian  language 
is,  the  more  careful  should  he  be  not  to  involve  himself  in  a  war 
of  words,  in  which  he  must  necessarily  be  at  great  disadvantage. 

It  need  hardly  be  observed  that  the  representations  of  drivers, 
guides,  and  others  of  a  similar  class,  with  whom  even  the  in- 
habitants of  the  place  often  appear  to  act  in  concert,  are  unworthy 
of  the  slightest  reliance.  Thus  in  Naples  the  charge  for  a  single 
drive  is  70  c,  and  yet  the  driver  would  find  no  difficulty  in 
producing  twenty  individuals  to  corroborate  his  assertion  that 
the  proper  fare  was  5  fr.  In  such  cases  the  traveller  may  gen- 
erally rely  on  the  data  in  the  Handbook.  Where  farther  in- 
formation is  required,  it  should  be  sought  from  printed  tariffs,  from 
fellow-travellers,  gensdarmes,  respectably  dressed  persons  present, 
occasionally  from  landlords,    but  seldom  or   never  from   waiters. 

The  traveller  should  always  be  provided  with  an  abundant 
supply  of  copper  coin  in  a  country  where  trifling  donations 
are  incessantly  in  demand.    Drivers,  guides,  porters,  and  donkey- 


INTERCOURSE  WITH  ITALIANS.  XVII 

attendants  invariably  expect ,  and  often  demand  as  a  right ,  a 
gratuity  (buona  mano,  mancia,  da  here,  bottiglia,  caffe,  fumata), 
varying  according  to  circumstances  from  2-3  sous  to  a  franc  or 
more,  in  addition  to  their  hire.  The  traveller  need  not  scruple 
to  limit  his  donations  to  the  smallest  possible  sums,  as  liberality 
is  often  a  fruitful  source  of  annoyance  and  embarrassment.  The 
bestowal  of  half-a-franc  when  two  sous  would  have  sufficed  may 
be  fraught  with  disagreeable  results  to  the  injudicious  donor ; 
the  fact  speedily  becomes  known,  and  he  is  besieged  by  a  host 
of  other  applicants  whose  demands  it  becomes  utterly  impossible 
to  satisfy.  It  may  be  laid  down  as  a  general  rule ,  that  the 
exercise  of  a  certain  degree  of  parsimony,  however  repugnant  to 
the  feelings  of  the  traveller ,  will  greatly  conduce  to  his  comfort 
and  enjoyment. 

The  demeanour  of  the  stranger  towards  the  natives  requires  of 
course  to  be  modified  to  suit  their  various  local  characteristics. 
"With  the  northern  Italians,  the  Tuscans,  and  the  Romans,  the  tra- 
veller will  find  no  difficulty  in  associating ;  but  with  the  class  of 
Neapolitans  with  whom  he  generally  comes  in  contact  the  case  is 
entirely  different,  and  one  is  almost  tempted  to  believe  that  they 
designedly  conspire  to  embitter  one's  enjoyment  of  their  delightful 
country.  In  dealing  with  such  persons,  as  a  general  rule,  the  only 
qualities  which  command  respect  and  ensure  civility  are  energy 
in  resisting  extortion  and  contemptuous  indifference  to  their  vehe- 
ment protestations.  It  is  hoped,  however,  that  a  more  auspicious 
era  is  dawning  under  the  present  regime,  and  that  the  policy  of 
honesty  will  at  length  begin  to  penetrate  the  Italian  mind. 

VI.     Conveyances,  -j- 

Railways.  With  the  exception  of  the  Rome  and  Naples  and 
the  Naples  and  Laura  lines,  which  belong  to  the  Ferrovie  Bomane, 
the  whole  of  the  railways  of  S.  Italy  and  Sicily  are  in  the  hands  of 
the  Ferrovie  Meridionali  company.  The  first-class  carriages  are 
seldom  better  than  the  second  on  most  of  the  German  and  Swiss 
lines.      'Si  cambia  convoglio  means  'change  carriages'. 

'Fare  il  biglietto1  signifies  'to  take  one's  ticket'.  The  ticket- 
office  is  usually  open  half-an-hour  before  the  departure  of  the 


*  The  most  trustworthy  time-tables  are  those  contained  in  the  Indi- 
cators Ufflciale  dalle  Strade  Ferrate ,  delta  Navigazione  e  Telegrafia  del 
Regno  d' Italia,  published  at  Turin  (with  map,  price  1  fr.).  Smaller  col- 
lections of  time-tables  are  also  published  at  Naples,  and  Sicily,  and  else- 
where for  local  use  (10 — 50  c).  The  Indicatore  Ufficiale  also  contains 
an  appendix  with  the  chief  diligence  routes  between  the  railways  and  the 
inland  towns.  As  the  steamboat  and  diligence  time-tables  often  remain 
unaltered  for  years  ,  the  hours  of  departure  are  often  mentioned  in  the 
Handbook  for  the  traveller's  convenience,  but  enquiry  on  the  spot  in  every 
case  is  advisable. 

baedekek.     Italy  III.    6th  Edition.  h 


XVIII  CONVEYANCES. 

train,  but  the  issue  of  the  tickets  is  often  so  extremely  slow  that 
travellers  with  luggage  should  always  endeavour  to  be  among  the 
first  applicants.  The  exact  fare  should ,  if  possible,  be  kept  in 
readiness  in  order  that  farther  delay  may  be  avoided.  The  wait- 
ing-rooms are  kept  closed  until  half-an-hour  before  the  departure 
of  the  train.  By  a  law  passed  on  14  Oct.  186(3,  a  tax  of  5  c. 
is  imposed  on  each  railway-ticket.  Except  at  Naples  and  a  few 
other  large  stations,  passengers  do  not  give  up  their  tickets  until 
they  leave  the  station  (where  usctta  is  usually  called  out  to  attract 
their  attention). 

The  traveller  is  recommended  to  ascertain  the  weight  of  his 
luggage,  if  possible,  before  going  to  the  station,  in  order  to  guard 
against  imposition.  Luggage  may  be  hooked  to  any  station  whether 
the  passenger  accompanies  it  or  not,  and  the  traveller  is  thus  en- 
abled to  send  his  luggage  to  his  iinal  destination  while  he  himself 
breaks  his  journey  at  pleasure.  No  luggage  is  allowed  free,  but 
what  is  taken  by  the  passenger  into  his  carriage,  which  must  not 
exceed  20  kilogrammes  (about  44  lbs.  Engl.)  in  weight.  Porters 
who  convey  luggage  to  and  from  the  carriages  expect  a  few  sous 
where  there  is  no  fixed  tariff.  Travellers  who  make  a  short  stay 
only  at  any  station  may  deposit  their  luggage  at  the  luggage  office 
(dare  in  deposito,  or  depositare). 

Excursion-tickets  are  issued  on  the  N.  Italian  and  Roman  rail- 
ways only  (the  latter  extending  as  far  as  Naples),  but  not  on  the 
IS.  Italian  lines.  Through-tickets  to  Naples,  Brindisi,  etc.,  may  be 
obtained  in  England  and  in  Germany. 

Steamboats.  A  voyage  on  the  Mediterranean  or  Adriatic  is 
almost  inseparable  from  a  tour  in  Southern  Italy.  If  the  vessel 
plies  near  the  coast,  the  voyage  is  often  entertaining;  and  if  the 
open  sea  is  traversed,  the  magnificent  Italian  sunsets,  lighting  up 
the  deep  blue  water  with  their  crimson  rays,  present  a  scene  not 
easily  forgotten.  Rough  weather  is  not  very  often  to  be  appre- 
hended in  summer. 

Tickets  should  be  purchased  by  the  traveller  in  person  at  the  office 
of  the  company.  The  ticket  is  furnished  with  the  purchaser's  name  and 
destination,  the  name  of  the  vessel,  and  the  hour  of  departure.  Fares 
(recently  raised),  duration  of  voyage,  etc.  are  stated  in  each  instance  in 
the  following  pages.  First  and  second  class  family-tickets,  for  not  fewer 
than  three  persons,  are  issued  by  all  the  companies  at  a  reduction  of 
20  per  cent  on  the  passage-money,  but  not  on  the  cost  of  food.  A  child 
of  2-10  years  pays  half-fare,  but  in  this  case  must  share,  the  berth  of  its 
attendant.     Two  children  are  entitled  to  a  berth  for  themselves. 

The  Fibst  Class  saloons  and  berths  are  comfortably  and  elegantly 
fitted  up,  those  of  the  Second  tolerably.  Second-class  passengers,  like 
those  of  the  lirst,  have  free  access  to  every  part  of  the  deck. 

Luggage.  First-class  passengers  are  allowed  70  kilogrammes  (156  lbs. 
Engl.),  second-class  45  kilogr.  (1U0  lbs. J,  but  articles  not  intended  for  per- 
sonal use  are  prohibited. 

Food  of  good  quality  and  ample  quantity  is  generally  included  in  the 
lirst  and  second-class  fares.  Dijeiiner  a  la  fuin-chfltc,  served  at  10,  con- 
sists of  3-4  courses,  table  wine,  and  coffee.  Dinner  is  a  similar  repast 
between  5  and  0  o'clock.     At  7  p.  m.  tea  is  served    in   the   lirst,    but  not 


CONVEYANCES.  XIX 

In  the  second  class.  Passengers  who  are  too  ill  to  partake  of  these  re- 
pasts are  provided  with  lemonade,  etc.,  gratuitously.  Refreshments  may 
of  course  be  procured  at  other  hours  on  payment. 

Fees.  The  Stewart  expects  1  fr.  for  a  voyage  of  12-24  hrs.,  but  more 
if  the  passenger  has  given  unusual  trouble. 

Embarkation.  Passengers  should  be  on  board  an  hour  before  the 
advertised  time  of  starting.  The  charges  for  conveyance  to  the  steamboat 
(usually  1  fr.  for  each  person  with  luggage)  are  fixed  by  tariff  at  all  the 
sea-ports,  and  will  be  found  in  the  Handbook.  Passengers  should  there- 
fore avoid  all  discussions  on  the  subject  with  the  boatmen,  and  simply 
direct  them  to  row  'al  Vaticano1,  'alia  Bella  Venezia1,  or  whatever  the 
name  of  the  vessel  may  be.  On  the  way,  the  boatmen  often  make  demands 
extravagantly  in  excess  of  the  tariff,  such  as,  'Signore,  sono  cinque  lire!1 
—  to  which  the  passenger  may  simply  reply,  'avanti ! '  On  arriving  at 
the  vessel,  payment  should  not  be  made  until  the  traveller  with  all  his 
luggage  is  deposited  on  deck.  The  wild  gesticulations  of  the  boatman, 
who  has  perhaps  calculated  upon  the  credulity  of  his  passenger,  but  re- 
ceives no  more  than  his  due  franc  (which  is  ample  remuneration) ,  may 
be  enjoied  with  serenity  from  the  deck,  as  on  that  'terra  sacra'  disputes 
are  strictly  prohibited. 

The  passenger  gives  up  his  ticket  on  board,  receives  the  number  of 
his  berth,  superintends  the  stowing  away  of  his  luggage,  and  finally  repairs 
to  the  deck  to  observe  the  progress  of  the  vessel  as  it  quits  the  harbour, 
of  which  a  line  view  is  generally  obtained. 

Diligences.  Corrieri  are  the  swifter  conveyances  which  carry 
the  mails,  and  accommodate  two  or  three  passengers  only  at 
high  fares.  Diligenze,  the  ordinary  stage-coaches,  convey  tra- 
vellers with  tolerable  rapidity,  and  generally  for  the  same  fares 
as  similar  vehicles  on  other  parts  of  the  continent.  They  are  in 
the  hands  of  private  speculators,  and  where  several  run  in  com- 
petition the  more  expensive  are  to  be  preferred.  When  ladies 
are  of  the  party  the  coupe  (one-third  dearer)  should  if  possible 
be  secured.  The  drivers  and  hostlers  generally  expect  a  few  soldi 
at  the  end  of  each  stage. 

Carriages.  Those  who  travel  in  a  hired  carriage  of  their  own 
are  of  course  much  more  independent  than  diligence  passengers. 
On  the  more  frequented  routes  a  carriage  with  one  horse  may  gener- 
ally be  hired  for  3/4 — 1  fr. ,  and  on  the  less  frequented  for  1/2 — 3/4 
fr.  per  English  mile. 

Horses.  Donkeys. 

An  Italian  never  walks  if  he  can  possibly  drive ;  to  him  it  is 
an  inscrutable  mystery  how  walking  can  afford  pleasure.  The  re- 
mark has  been  frequently  made  to  the  Editor,  :lei  t  signore  e  va  a 
piedi?!'  In  the  more  frequented  districts,  however,  such  as  the 
environs  of  Naples,  the  inhabitants  are  accustomed  to  this  mania  of 
travellers  from  the  north.  Walking  excursions  in  other  parts  of 
Italy  also  have  their  peculiar  attractions,  and  among  other  advan- 
tages that  of  procuring  for  the  pedestrian  the  enviable  reputation 
of  being  a  pittore,  or  needy  individual  from  whom  little  is  to  be 
extorted. 

Prolonged  and  fatiguing  walking-tours,  such  as  are  undertaken 
in  more  northern  climates,  will  be  found  impracticable  in  Italy. 
Cool    and    clear    weather   should    if  possible  be  selected,   and   the 

b* 


XX  HOTELS. 

sirocco  studiously  avoided.     The  height  of  summer  is  totally  un- 
suitable for  tours  of  this  kind. 

A  horse  (cavallo)  or  donkey  (sommuro  ;  Neapol.  ciucio ;  Sicil. 
vettura,  applied  to  both  animals),  between  which  the  difference  of 
expense  is  trilling,  often  affords  a  pleasant  and  cheap  mode  of  tra- 
velling, especially  in  mountainous  districts ,  where  the  attendant 
(pedone)  also  acts  as  a  servant  for  the  time  being.  A  bargain  should 
be  made  previously,  tutto  compreso,  a  gratuity  being  added  if  the 
traveller  is  satisfied. 

VII.   Hotels. 

The  popular  idea  of  cleanliness  In  Southern  Italy  is  behind  the 
age,  dirt  being  perhaps  neutralised  in  the  opinion  of  the  natives 
by  the  brilliancy  of  their  climate.  The  traveller  will  rarely  suffer 
from  this  shortcoming  in  hotels  and  lodgings  of  the  best  class;  but 
those  who  quit  the  beaten  track  must  be  prepared  for  privations. 
In  village  houses  the  pig  (animate  nero)  is  a  privileged  inmate, 
and  the  poultry  are  freely  admitted.  Iron  bedsteads  should  if  pos- 
sible be  selected,  as  being  less  infested  by  the  enemies  of  repose. 
Insect-powder  [polvere  di  Persia ;  better  procured  before  leaving 
home)  or  camphor  should  be  plentifully  sprinkled  on  the  beds 
and  on  the  traveller's  clothing  in  places  of  doubtful  cleanliness. 
The  zanzare,  or  mosquitoes,  are  a  source  of  great  annoyance,  and 
even  of  suffering,  in  summer  and  autumn.  Windows  should  always 
be  carefully  closed  before  a  light  is  introduced  into  the  room. 
Light  muslin  curtains  (zanzariera)  round  the  beds,  masks  for  the 
face,  and  gloves  are  used  to  ward  of  the  tacks  of  these  pertinacious 
intruders. 

At  Naples  and  in  the  environs,  at  Brindisi,  Palermo,  Messina, 
and  Catania  there  are  good  hotels  of  the  first  class,  the  landlords 
of  which  are  often  Swiss  or  Germans.  Rooms  2'/2-5  fr.,  bougie 
75  c. -1  fr.,  attendance  I  fr.,  table  d'hote  4-6  fr.,  and  so  on. 
Families,  for  whose  reception  the  hotels  are  often  specially  fitted 
up,  should  make  an  agreement  with  regard  to  pension  (8-12  fr. 
per  day  for  each  person).  Strangers  are  expected  to  dine  at  the 
table  d'hote ;  otherwise  they  are  charged  more  for  their  rooms, 
or  are  informed  that  they  are  engaged  by  other  travellers.  French 
is  spoken   everywhere.     Cuisine  a  mixture  of  French  and  Italian. 

The  second-class  inns,  as  in  Northern  and  Central  Italy,  gener- 
ally have  a  trattoria  in  connection  with  the  house.  Room  l^feS, 
light  and  attendance  1  fr.  per  day.  Enquiry  as  to  charges,  however, 
should  always  be  made  beforehand.  An  extortionate  bill  may  even 
be  reduced  though  no  previous  agreement  has  been  made,  but  this 
is  never  effected  without  long  and  vehement  discussions. 

Attendance,  exclusive  of  boots  and  commissionaire,  is  usually  charged 
in  tlie  bill  at  the  best  hotels.  In  the  smaller  inns  it  is  generally  included 
in  the  charge  for  rooms;  but  if  not,  1  fr.  per  'lay  may  be  divided  between 
the  waiter  and  the  facchino,  or  less  for  a  prolonged  stay.  Copper  coins 
are  never  despised  by  such  recipients. 


RESTAURANTS. 


XXI 


If  a  prolonged  stay  is  made  at  a  hotel,  the  bill  should  be  asked  for 
every  three  or  four  days ,  in  order  that  errors ,  whether  accidental  or 
designed,  may  more  easily  be  detected.  When  the  traveller  intends 
starting  early  in  the  morning,  the  bill  should  be  obtained  over  night, 
but  not  paid  until  the  moment  of  departure.  It  is  a  favourite  practice  to 
withhold  the  bill  till  the  last  moment,  when  the  hurry  and  confusion  render 
overcharges  less  liable  to  discovery. 

The  mental  arithmetic  of  waiters  is  apt  to  be  exceedingly  faulty, 
though  rarely  in  favour  of  the  traveller.  A  written  enumeration  of  the 
items  charged  for  should  therefore  be  required;  and  accounts  in  which, 
as  not  unfrequently  happens,  kcolazione,  pranzo,  vino,  etc.'  figure  in  the 
aggregate,  should  be  rejected. 

Information  obtained  from  waiters,  and  persons  of  a  similar  class  can 
rarely  be  relied  upon.  Enquiries  should  therefore  be  addressed  to  the  land- 
lords themselves,  or,  if  possible,  to  entirely  disinterested  persons. 


VIII.     Restaurants,  Cafes. 

Restaurants  (trattorle)  are  chiefly  frequented  by  Italians, 
and  by  travellers  unaccompanied  by  ladies.  Dinner  may  be  obtain- 
ed a  la  carte  at  any  hour  between  12  and  7  or  8  p.  m.,  for  l1/2-£)fr. ; 
or  a  repast  (pasto)  may  be  ordered  at  the  fixed  price  of  3-5  fr.  for 
each  person.  The  waiters  expect  a  gratuity  of  2-5  soldi,  or  about 
1  soldo  for  each  franc  of  the  bill.  The  diner  who  desires  to  keep 
his  expenses  within  reasonable  limits  should  avoid  ordering  dishes 
not  included  in  the  bill  of  fare. 

The  following  list  comprises  most  of  the  commoner  Italian 
dishes :    — 


Minestra,   or  Zuppa,   soup. 
Consume,  broth  or  bouillon. 
Zuppa     alia   Sante ,    soup  with 

green  vegetables  and  bread. 
Riso  con  piselli,    rice-soup  with 

peas. 
Risotto  ('alia  Milanese'),   a  kind 

of  rice  pudding  (rich). 
Maccaroni  al  burro,  with  butter ; 

al  pornidoro,    or  alia  Napoli- 

tana,   with  tomatas. 
Manzo,  beef. 
Fritto,   fried  meat. 
Frittura  mista,  liver,  brains,  and 

artichokes  fried  together. 
Frittata,   omelette. 
Arrosto,   roasted  meat. 
Bistecca,  beefsteak. 
Coscietto,  loin. 
Arrosto  di  vitello,  or  di  mongana, 

roast-veal. 
Testa  di  vitello,   call's  head. 
Fegatn  di  vitello,   calf's  liver. 


Costoletta  or  braccioletta  di  vitel- 
lo, veal-cutlet. 

Patate,   potatoes. 

Quaglia,   quail. 

Tordo,   field-fare. 

Lodola,   lark. 

Sfoglia,   a  kind  of  sole. 

Antipasto,  principi  alia  tavola,  or 
piattini,  hot  relishes. 

Funghi,  mushrooms  (often  too 
rich). 

Presciutto,   ham. 

Salami,   sausage. 

Polio,  or  pollastro,  fowl. 

Oallotta,  turkey. 

Umidi,   meat  with  sauce. 

Stufatino,    ragout. 

Erbe,   or  legumi,   vegetables. 

Carciofi,   artichokes. 

Piselli,   peas. 

Lenticchie,  lentils. 

Cavoli  fiori,   cauliflower. 

Fave,  beans. 


.XXII  CAFES. 


Fayiuolini,   French  beans. 

Sale,   salt. 

Pepe,  pepper. 

Mostardn,   simple  mustard. 

Senape,   hot  mustard. 

Ostriche,  oysters  (good  in  winter 
only). 

Frutta ,  or  Oiardinetto ,  fruit- 
desert. 

Crostata  di  frutti,   fruit-tart. 

Crostata  di  pasta  sfoglia,  a  kind 
of  pastry. 

Frayole,   strawberries. 

Pern,   pear. 


Pomi,   or  mele,   apples. 

Persiche,   peaches. 

Vva,    bunch  of  grapes. 

Limone,   lemon. 

Arancio  or  Portogallo,   orange. 

Finocchio,   root  of  fennel. 

Pane  francese ,  bread  made  with 
yeast  (the  Italian  is  without). 

Formaggio,  or  in  S.  Italy  caccio, 
cheese. 

Vino  rosso  or  nero,  red  wine ; 
bianco,  white ;  aseiutto,  dry; 
dolce,  sweet ;  nostrale,  table- 
wine. 


Capes  are  frequented  for  breakfast  and  lunch ,  and  in  tlie 
evening  by  numerous  consumers  of  ices.  Cafe  noir  {Caff'e  nero) 
is  most  commonly  drunk  (15-20  c.  per  cup).  Caff'e  latte  is  coffee 
mixed  with  milk  before  served  (20-30  c.)  ;  or  caff'e  e  latte,  i.  e. 
with  the  milk  served  separately,  may  be  preferred  (30-40  c). 
The  usual  viands  for  lunch  are  ham,  sausages,  cutlets,  and  eggs 
(uova  da  here,   soft;   toste,   hard;   uova  al  piatto,   fried). 

Ices  (sorbetto,  or  gelato)  of  every  conceivable  variety  are 
supplied  at  the  cafes,  particularly  at  Naples,  at  30-90  c.  per  por- 
tion ;  or  half-a-portion  (mezza)  may  generally  be  ordered.  Qranita, 
or  half-frozen  ice  (limonata,  of  lemons;  aranciata,  of  oranges; 
di  caff'e,  of  coffee),  is  chiefly  in  vogue  in  the  forenoon.  The 
waiter  (cameriere  or  botteya) ,  whose  accuracy  in  giving  change 
is  not  always  to  be  relied  on,   expects  a  fee  of  5-10  c. 

IX.     Theatres,  Shops. 

Theatres.  The  performances  at  the  larger  theatres,  begin- 
ning at  8,  8.  30,  or  9,  and  ending  at  midnight  or  later,  consist 
exclusively  of  operas  and  ballets,  the  first  act  of  an  opera  being 
usually  succeeded  by  a  ballet  of  three  or  more  acts.  Verdi  is 
the  most  popular  composer.  The  pit  (platea),  to  which  holders 
of  the  ordinary  biglietto  d'inyresso  are  admitted ,  is  the  usual 
resort  of  the  men.  For  the  reserved  seats  (scanni  chiusi,  sedie 
clause,  poltrone,  posti  distinti)  and  boxes  (palco)  additional 
tickets  must  be  taken.  Ladies  of  course  engage  a  box,  or  at 
least  reserved  seats.  The  former  must  always  be  secured  in 
advance.  —  A  visit  to  the  smaller  theatres,  where  dramas  and 
comedies  are  acted,  is  recommended  for  the  sake  of  familiarising 
the  ear  with  the  language.  Performances  in  summer  take  place 
in  the  open  air.  —  The  theatre  is  a  favourite  evening  resort 
of  the  Italians,  and  silence  during  the  performance  of  the  music 
is  never  very  strictly  observed. 


RECKONING  OF  TIME. 


XXIII 


Shops  rarely  have  fixed  prices.  As  a  rule  two-thirds  or  three- 
quarters  of  the  price  asked  should  be  offered.  The  same  rule  ap- 
plies to  artizans,  drivers,  and  others.  'Non  volete?'  (then  you  will 
not?)  is  a  remark  which  generally  has  the  effect  of  bringing  the 
matter  to  a  speedy  adjustment.  Purchases  should  never  be  made 
by  the  traveller  when  accompanied  by  a  valet-de-place.  These 
individuals,  by  tacit  agreement,  receive  at  least  10  per  cent  of  the 
purchase -money,  which  of  course  comes  out  of  the  purchaser's 
pocket. 

Cigars  in  Italy  are  a  monopoly  of  government,  and  bad. 
The  prices  of  the  home-made  cigars  vary  from  5  to  10  c.  (Vevays, 
Virginias,  Toscani,  Cavours,  Scelti  Romani,  etc.).  Imported  Ha- 
vannahs  cost  from  25  c.  to  1  fr.   and  more  each. 

X.     Reckoning  of  Time. 

The  old  Italian  reckoning  from  1  to  24  o'clock  is  now  disused 
in  all  the  larger  towns,  except  by  the  lower  classes,  but  is  still 
almost  universally  employed  in  the  country,  especially  in  Sicily. 
The  ordinary  reckoning  of  other  nations  is  termed   ora   francese. 

The  moment  of  the  sun's  disappearance  below  the  horizon  is 
'half  past  23  o'clock';  the  twilight  lasts  about  half-an-hour,  after 
which  it  is  '24  o'clock',  or  the  close  of  the  day,  when  'Ave  Maria' 
is  rung.  The  following  hours  are  usually  called  'un  ora  di  notte', 
'due  ore  di  notte',  etc.  This  troublesome  mode  of  calculation 
would  necessitate  a  daily  alteration  of  every  time-piece  in  the 
kingdom,  but  it  is  thought  sufficiently  accurate  to  alter  the 
hour  of  Ave  Maria  by  a  quarter  of  an  hour  about  once  a  fort- 
night. The  following  table  shows  the  Italian  compared  with  the 
ordinary  hours. 


By  Ital.  time 

By  Ital.  time 

43  °  2 

£  o  3 

our 

our 

««*  <= 

our 

our 

*~*  —v  c 

noon 

midnt. 

a>C*J  t» 

noon 

midnt. 

^^'  w 

is 

is 

<3  o 

is 

is 

<  o 

Jan. 

1—12. 

19 

7 

5 

July      1—12. 

16 

4 

8 

13—31. 

183|4 

6'j  4 

51/4 

13—31. 

16i/* 

4'|i 

73)4 

Feb. 

1—15. 

18i|2 

6'  k 

5>|2 

Aue.     1—15. 

161/2 

4i|.. 

7i|2 

16—24. 

181/4 

6'/* 

53|4 

16—25. 

163)4 

43|4 

7')4 

25—28. 

18 

6 

6 

26—31. 

17 

5 

7 

March 

1—  5. 

18 

6 

6 

Sept.     1—  5. 

17 

5 

7 

6—15. 

iT3|4 

53|4 

6>|* 

6-16. 

17i|4 

51/4 

63|, 

16—26. 

ni|2 

5>fe 

6>)2 

17—27. 

17i|2 

5'  2 

61)2 

27—31. 

17i|4 

51/4 

63|4 

28—30. 

173)4 

53|4 

6'|* 

April 

1—10. 

17-1/4 

51/4 

63|4 

Oct.      1—10. 

173), 

53|4 

6'/* 

11—20. 

17 

5 

7 

11—20. 

18 

6 

6 

21—30. 

163/* 

43|4 

7'/-. 

21—31. 

18i|4 

61(4 

53|4 

May 

1—15. 

161/2 

4'k 

7i|2 

Nov.      1 — 15. 

18i)2 

6>2 

5i|2 

16-31. 

161  4 

4'|4 

73|4 

16-31. 

1834 

63/4 

51;* 

June 

1-30. 

16 

4 

8 

Dec.      1—31. 

19 

7-2 

5 

XXIV  CLIMATE.     HEALTH. 

XI.     Postal  Arrangements. 

Post  Office.  The  address  of  letters,  whether  poste  restante 
(Ital.  ferma  in  posta),  or  to  the  traveller's  hotel ,  should  in  all 
cases  be  simple  and  distinctly  legible ,  all  superfluous  titles 
being  omitted.  In  asking  for  letters  it  is  a  good  plan  to  show 
one's  visiting  card,  and  to  see  that  a  proper  search  is  made 
among  the  poste  restante  letters. 

Postage-stamps  (francobolli)  are  sold  at  many  of  the  tobacco- 
shops.  A  letter  of  15  grammes  ('/a  oz.,  weight  of  about  3  soldi) 
to  any  of  the  countries  included  in  the  postal  union  30  c. ;  post- 
card (cartolina  postale)  15  c.  ;  book-post  (stampe  sotto  fascia)  7  c. 
per  50  grammes ;   registering  (raccomandazione)  30  c. 

Letters  by  town -post  5  c. ;  throughout  Italy  20  c.  prepaid, 
30  c.   unpaid;   post- cards  10c. 

In  the  larger  towns  the  post-office  is  open  daily  (including 
Sundays  and  holidays)  from  9  a.  m.   to  10  p.  m. 

Telegram  of  20  words  to  Great  Britain  10  (London  9)  fr., 
France  4,  Germany  5,  Switzerland  3,  Austria  3  or  4,  Belgium  5, 
Denmark  7'/2 ,  Russia  11,  Norway  S1^,  Sweden  8  fr.  —  To 
America  10  words  50  fr. 

In  Italy,  15  words  1  fr.;  with  special  haste  5  fr. ;  each  addi- 
tional word  10  or  50  c.  —  Registered  telegrams  may  be  sent  at 
double  charges. 

XII.     Climate.     Health. 

Climate.  Travellers  from  the  north  generally  become  un- 
usually susceptible  to  cold  in  Italy,  and  should  therefore  be  well 
supplied  with  warm  clothing  for  the  winter.  Carpets  and  stoves, 
to  the  comforts  of  which  the  Italians  generally  appear  indifferent, 
are  indispensable  in  winter.  A  southern  aspect  is  an  absolute 
essential  for  the  delicate ,  and  highly  desirable  for  the  robust. 
Colds  are  most  easily  caught  after  sunset  and  in  rainy  weather. 
Even  in  summer  it  is  a  wise  precaution  never  to  wear  very  light 
clothing.     Flannel  is   strongly  recommended. 

Exposure  to  the  summer  sun  should  be  avoided  as  much  as 
possible.  According  to  a  Roman  proverb,  dogs  and  foreigners 
(Inglesi)  alone  walk  in  the  sun,  Christians  in  the  shade.  Um- 
brellas, and  spectacles  of  coloured  glass  (grey  concave  glasses  to 
protect  the  whole  eye  are  best)  may  be  used  with  advantage 
when  a  walk  in  the  sun  is  unavoidable.  Repose  during  the  hot- 
test hours  is  advisable,  and  a  siesta  of  moderate  length  refresh- 
ing.   Windows  should  be  closed  at  night  to  exclude  malarious  air. 

Health.  English  and  German  medical  men  and  chemists 
are  to  be  met  with  in  the  larger  cities.  The  Italian  thera- 
peutic art  does  not  enjoy  a  very  high  reputation  in  the  rest  of 
Europe.  It  may,  however,  sometimes  be  prudent,  in  the  case 
of    maladies    arising    from    local    causes,    to   employ  native    skill. 


HEATH.  XXV 

Foreigners  frequently  suffer  from  diarrhoea  in  Italy,  which  is 
generally  occasioned  by  the  unwonted  heat.  Ice  and  rice  are 
two  of  the  commonest  remedies.  The  homoeopathic  tincture 
of  camphor  may  also  be  mentioned.  In  such  cases,  however, 
thorough  repose  is  the  chief  desideratum. 

The  traveller  who  has  the  misfortune  to  be  seized  with  any 
serious  illness  at  Naples  will  find  the  hotels  uncomfortable  and 
very  expensive.  In  such  cases  the  Casa  di  Salute  of  Dr.  Albani, 
professor  of  physiology  at  the  university,  Vico  Stretto  in  Miracoli 
(pension  12-15  fr.  a  day,  including  medical  attendance,  the  in- 
mates being,  however,  at  liberty  to  employ  other  medical  men), 
and  the  Pensione  delle,  Sorelle  della  Speranza,  Hione  Amedeo.  are 
recommended. 


ANCIENT    ART, 

from  the  German  of 

Prof.  Reinhard  Kekule. 

We  store 

The  sculptured  relics  of  the  Past, 

And  deplore 

The  beautiful  as  lost  at  last. 

The  traveller  whose  attention  is  directed  to  the  treasures  of 
the  National  Museum  at  Naples,  to  the  relics  of  antiquity  scattered 
throughout  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily ,  and  who ,  possibly  setting 
foot  on  the  soil  of  Attica,  rinds  himself,  if  favoured  by  fortune,  in 
the  presence  of  her  glorious  ruins  —  has  in  all  probability  had 
his  appetite  whetted  in  Rome  and  there  collected  such  data  as  he 
will  readily  apply  to  all  that  presents  itself  as  new  to  his  obser- 
vation. But  even  he  who  turns  himself  at  once  to  the  contemplation 
of  an  heritage  of  antiquity  such  as  that  comprised  in  the  favoured 
regions  of  Campania  and  Sicily  has  the  promise  of  a  rich  and  ab- 
undant harvest,  if  he  but  know  how  to  prize  its  fruits. 

The  National  Museum  partakes  in  many  of  its  departments  of 
the  same  character  as  the  Vatican  with  its  Statue  world,  and  in- 
cludes many  works  in  marble  which  have  indeed  been  brought 
thither  from  Rome,  notably  those  formerly  belonging  to  the  Farnese 
family.  By  the  careful  observer  many  of  the  statues  will  be  re- 
cognised a<  repetitions  of  those  already  seen  in  Rome.  They  belong 
to  the  numerous  class  of  copies  made  from  renowned  masterpieces, 
which  in  the  old  Roman  time  were  indispensable  adjuncts  to 
a  display  of  wealth  and  refinement.  Many  of  these  marbles  betray, 
owing  to  a  certain  redundancy  and  pliancy  of  outline,  a  taste 
peculiar  to  people  of  these  coasts  upon  which  Nature  has  lavished 
her  choicest  gifts.  The  exquisite  Greek  coins  remind  us  that  we  are 
in  a  land  that  was  once  the  thriving  and  envied  seat  of  Greek  cul- 
ture :  innumerable  tripods,  candelabra,  lamps,  braziers,  jars,  jugs. 
caskets,  bracelets,  needles,  house  and  kitchen  utensils  of  all  kinds, 
weapons  of  warriors  and  gladiators,  the  numerous  figures  in  bronze, 
above  all  a  stately  array  of  some  hundreds  of  wall  paintings,  unique 
in  the  world  ,  indicate  with  sufficient  clearness  that  here  are  col- 


ANCIENT  ART.  XXVII 

lected  the  results  of  excavations  which  present  as  in  a  mirror  a 
complete  and  charming  picture  of  ancient  life,  and  that  we  are  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Pompeii,  Herculaneum,  and 
Stabia?,  long  buried  at  the  foot  of  Vesuvius. 

The  first  impression  of  purely  Greek  art  the  Northern  traveller 
in  Italy  receives  at  Paestum.  The  drive  through  a  lonely,  insecure 
country ;  the  picturesque  beauty  of  the  ruins  and  landscape  with 
the  glittering  sea  in  apparently  close  proximity  ;  the  melancholy  re- 
flection that  these  proud  temples  before  their  decay  looked  upon 
a  thriving  Hellenic  city  amid  the  smiles  of  nature,  instead  of  a 
fever-stricken  pestilential  wilderness  :  all  this  serves  so  to  excite 
the  susceptibility  of  the  beholder,  that  he  will  find  the  impression 
produced  by  these  ruins,  conspicuously  that  of  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter ,  almost  more  overpowering  thaii  even  the  spectacle  of  the 
Roman  forum.  There  the  scale,  the  solidity  and  splendour  of  the 
edifices ,  as  well  as  the  surpassing  wealth  of  form  and  sculptured 
ornament,  are  imposing.  Here  the  architecture  appears  externally 
poor  in  merely  superficial  decoration  :  poorer  than  it  had  originally 
been.  The  coating  of  stucco ,  so  fine  and  firmly  set  that  it  gave  to 
the  porous  limestone  a  surface  smooth  as  marble,  is  shattered  and 
weather-stained,  the  forms  themselves  have  extensively  suffered; 
wind  and  weather  have  obliterated  the  coloured  leaves  which  de- 
corated the  heavy  collars  of  the  capitals  together  with  all  that  gay 
adornment  bestowed  according  to  Greek  custom.  But  precisely  in 
this  absence  of  adornment,  in  a  simplicity  which  brings  to  view 
only  what  is  indispensable  and  essential,  does  this  stern  Doric 
temple  with  its  dense  array  of  mighty  columns,  with  its  lofty  and 
ponderous  entablature  and  far  reaching  projection  of  cornice,  in 
the  clear  and  simple  disposal  of  the  masses,  in  solemnity  and 
strength  of  proportion,  in  beauty  and  distinctness  of  outline,  pre- 
sent itself  as  a  revelation  of  the  spirit  of  Greek  architecture,  which 
so  fills  us  with  amazement  that  we  are  apt  to  overlook  the  very 
slight  expenditure  of  material  space  employed  to  produce  this  in- 
comparable impression  of  grandeur  and  sublimity.  One  who  has 
seen  the  ruins  of  Paestum  will  have  the  more  pleasure  in  examin- 
ing less  impressive  mementos  of  the  Greek  ages  from  the  city  dedi- 
cated to  Poseidon  —  the  fine  monumental  paintings  from  Paestum 
in  the  National  Museum  of  Naples:  Warriors  departing  for  the 
combat  whence  they  are  never  to  return. 

The  Temple  of  Poseidon  at  Pactum  is  ascribed  to  the  close  of 
the  6th  century  B.C.  From  a  far  remoter  past,  however,  dates 
the  fragment  of  art-history  which  we  are  enabled  to  trace  in  Seli- 
nunto,  although  it  cannot  of  course  be  deciphered  on  the  spot  from 
its  ruins  alone.  The  imagination  is  less  severely  taxed  to  supply 
all  that  is  lost  to  the  beauteous  ruins  in  Segesta  and  Oirgenti.  In 
Selinunto  the  effects  of  earthquake  have  been  so  destructive  that  a 
clear  conception  of  the  temples  can  only  be  attained  by  reference 


XXVIII  ANCIENT  ART. 

to  the  architects'  plans  and  drawings.  The  sculptures  belonging  to 
these  temples,  brought  to  light  by  recent  excavations,  are  to  be  found 
in  the  Museum  of  Palermo.  The  oldest  temple,  usually  distinguish- 
ed by  the  letter  C,  is  that  on  the  Acropolis.  This  was  probably  de- 
dicated to  Apollo  as  god  of  succour,  and  was  erected  immediately 
subsequent  to  the  foundation  of  the  city,  an  event  assigned  variously 
to  651  B.C.  and  628  B.C.  The  neighbouring  and  most  northerly 
temple  of  the  Acropolis,  D,  presumably  sacred  to  Athena,  is  scarcely 
more  recent.  In  the  three  metope  reliefs  which  belong  to  the  first 
named  temple  C ,  scarcely  a  trace  of  Grecian  beauty  is  discernible ; 
indeed  they  are  almost  ludicrously  primitive  and  rude.  And  yet 
they  afford  an  instructive  insight  into  the  rudimentary  Sculpture  of 
the  Greeks.  Possibly,  in  the  place  for  which  they  were  designed, 
aloft  between  the  triglyphs  of  a  Doric  frieze,  and  set  in  a  frame- 
work of  strong  and  clearly  defined  architectural  lines ,  the  reliefs 
may  have  had  a  less  repulsive  effect.  But  it  is  curious  to  ob- 
serve how  the  same  stage  in  art  which  had  in  architecture  attained 
to  an  essentially  coherent  system,  primitive  perhaps  in  its  severity 
and  unwieldiness,  yet  conveying  the  impression  of  harmony  in  its 
completeness,  should  in  the  rendering  of  such  figures  as  'would  con- 
tribute to  its  architectural  ornamentation  be  beset  by  a  childish 
restraint  and  uncertainty  of  aim ;  how  the  same  eye  that  watched 
over  the  ordered  arrangement  of  each  part  and  proportion  as 
well  as  the  delicate  rendering  of  each  line  and  ornament  of  the 
building ,  could  be  content  to  give  representations  of  mythical 
events ,  which,  as  it  appears  to  us,  must  have  exhibited  an  aimless 
and  startling  conspicuousness  and  a  grotesque  vivacity,  entailing 
the  disfigurement  of  the  human  form  and  the  entire  sacrifice  of 
natural  proportion.  And  yet  in  these  characteristics  lies  the  germ 
of  a  mighty  future,  in  the  religious  enthusiasm  which  anim- 
ated the  artist  as  he  strove  to  give  intelligible  expression  to 
the  sacred  history  which  he  had  to  relate ,  in  the  independence 
and  directness  with  which  he  embodied  its  purport  in  sculp- 
tured forms.  Not  that  we  can  suppose  such  scenes  to  have  been 
altogether  new  to  him.  He  might  have  seen  them  in  other 
places  and  in  earlier  times.  But  he  had  to  mould  them  anew 
and  from  his  own  individual  resources,  without  available  pattern, 
and  without  that  readiness  in  execution  which  the  hand  can  only 
acquire  by  frequent  exercise.  The  head  of  Medusa  alone,  this 
earliest  figurative  expression  of  destruction  and  horror,  is  clearly 
and  unfailingly  pourtrayed.  To  the  artist  as  well  as  his  contem- 
poraries this  poverty  in  execution  was  not  apparent.  Their  suces- 
sors  were  not  slow  to  make  far  different  pretensions.  If  a  kind 
fate  had  preserved  the  single  statue  of  the  youthful  god  that  stood 
in  the  sanctuary,  or  at  some  future  time  should  discover  it  to  us, 
we  should  probably  be  overwhelmed  with  astonishment  at  the  con- 
trast presented  by  the  statue  to  the  reliefs.     At  a  time  when  such 


ANCIENT  ART.  XXIX 

reliefs  as  these  were  possible,  Greek  art  had  already  possessed  itself 
of  a  definite  type  for  the  statue  of  Apollo,  and  for  the  youthful 
form  generally,  in  archaic  stiffness,  but  conformable  with  the  law 
of  nature  in  shape  and  proportion ;  while  by  constant  comparison 
with  nature  it  continued  to  gain  in  purity  and  truthfulness. 

By  the  same  process  representation  in  relief  is  gradually  en- 
nobled. Offences  against  proportion  and  drawing  are  more  easily 
overlooked  in  relief  than  in  a  lifesize  -work  in  the  round ;  the  sus- 
ceptibility of  the 'eye  moreover  is  more  readily  forgotten  in  the  in- 
terest excited  by  the  pictorial  narration.  The  monuments  of  Seli- 
nunto  are  preeminent  in  the  opportunity  they  afford  for  observing 
on  the  spot  what  has  spuing  from  these  beginnigs.  Of  the  group  on 
the  Eastern  hill  the  Temple  F  in  point  of  time  is  next  to  those  of 
the  Paean  Apollo  and  of  Athena.  Then  come  Temple  G,  likewise 
dedicated  to  Apollo,  one  to  Juno  E,  and  lastly  Temple  A,  occupy- 
ing the  Acropolis.  Temple  F  still  belongs  to  the  6th  century  B.C., 
a  period  when  the  building  of  the  Apollo  Temple  O  had  begun,  to 
be  completed  at  a  later  period.  The  Herseum  (Temple  of  Juno)  E 
and  the  temple  A  date  from  the  middle  of  the  5th  century  B.C. 
or  not  much  later.  Two  halves  of  metope  slabs  have  been 
brought  to  light  which  adorned  the  temple  F  (a  god  and  goddess 
contending  with  giants),  and  four  similar  slabs  from  the  HersBum 
are  so  far  preserved  that  they  furnish  a  sufficiently  intelligible 
representation  of  Zeus  and  Hera,  Artemis  and  Actason,  Hera- 
cles and  the  Amazons,  and  Athena  contending  with  the  Giants. 

In  both  metopes  from  F  extraordinary  clearness  and  animation 
again  arrest  the  attention.  The  impetuous  rush  of  the  victorious 
goddess,  the  dying  agonies  of  the  fallen  giant,  his  head  convulsive- 
ly thrown  back,  his  mouth  open  and  grinning,  his  utter  helpless- 
ness, are  rendered  with  a  turbulence  ,  and  with  an  expenditure  of 
means,  which  appear  to  us  very  much  in  excess  of  what  is  needed 
for  clear  expression,  and  which  simply  outrage  instead  of  satisfying 
one's  sense  of  the  beautiful.  The  two  art  stages  to  which  these 
reliefs,  and  the  quaint  rudeness  of  those  of  the  Apollo  Temple  on 
the  Acropolis  belong,  offer  a  certain  analogy.  In  both  cases  all 
available  means  are  applied  with  recklessness  and  in  excess.  Those, 
however,  at  the  disposal  of  the  later  artist  were  infinitely  richer 
and  more  perfect.  While  his  predecessor  had  not  altogether  mastered 
the  forms  of  art ,  he  had  acquired  a  certain  familiarity  with  them, 
though  at  the  cost  of  much  toil  and  trouble  ;  but  his  power  was  so 
new  and  unwonted  that  he  could  not  refrain  from  abusing  it.  The 
Metopae  from  theHerceumon  the  other  hand,  which  mark  the  maturity 
of  archaic  art ,  show  a  command  of  expression  ennobled  by  a  fine 
perception  of  the  beautiful.  These  qualities  declare  themselves  most 
felicitously  in  the  two  compositions  which  represent  the  meeting 
of  Zeus  and  Hera  on  Mount  Ida  and  Artemis  punishing  Actaeon. 


XXX  ANCIENT  ART. 

The  expression  of  godlike  serenity  and  joy  which  pervades  the  first 
scene  transcends  all  similar  efforts  whether  of  earlier  or  later  art: 
while  the  second  is  scarcely  less  admirable  from  the  way  in  which 
the  unmistakable  wildness  of  the  subject  is  subdued  to  something 
like  softness  by  modulation  of  movement  and  occupation  of  allotted 
space.  The  technical  method  employed  in  the  more  recent  metopes 
is  peculiar.  In  the  antique  vases  with  black  figures  on  a  red  ground 
the  men  are  usually  black  and  the  women ,  as  far  as  the  body  itself 
is  visible,  white.  Here  the  indication  of  the  lighter  and  darker  flesh 
colour  of  the  two  sexes  has  superficially  supplied  a  necessary  char- 
acteristic. But  the  perfected  art  also  resorted  to  this  distinction  in 
rendering  flesh  colour.  In  the  paintings  of  Pompeii  the  bronzed, 
sunburnt  bodies  of  the  men  form  an  effective  contrast  to  the  deli- 
cate and  fairer  forms  of  the  women.  Something  of  the  same  kind 
is  found  in  the  metopes  of  the  Herieum.  As  the  entire  temple  is  of 
tufa,  they  too  are  of  the  same  material.  Owing  to  the  rugged  and 
faulty  nature  of  the  material  the  architect  resorted  to  a  coating  of 
stucco  upon  which  he  displayed  his  gaudy  decoration.  In  the  reliefs 
on  the  other  hand  the  nude  forms  of  the  women  are  given  in  white 
marble.  The  harmony  of  the  different  portions  of  the  reliefs, 
multiform  as  they  were,  was  restored  by  a  profuse  application  of 
colour,  which  the  purely  architectural  accessories  also  required. 

These  beautiful  reliefs,  which  may  appear  somewhat  primitive 
in  our  eyes,  are  contemporaneous  with,  or  perhaps  even  more  recent 
than  the  building  and  plastic  decoration  of  the  Parthenon  in  Athens. 
Compared  with  the  works  of  Attica  they  exhibit  a  distinctly  dif- 
ferent order  of  art,  a  Doric  fashion  of  sculpture  which  we  again 
meet  with  in  the  older  metopes  from  Selinunto.  At  a  time  when 
Greek  art  was  in  the  zenith  of  its  splendour,  the  Western  Hellenes, 
who  like  the  Greeks  of  Asia  Minor  had  been  once  in  advance  of  the 
mother  country,  lost  their  advantage.  Magna  Greecia  and  Sicily  can 
boast  of  no  name  comparable  with  those  of  Phidias  and  Polycletus. 
The  reliefs  of  Selinunto  have  more  in  common  with  the  works  of 
Polycletus,  than  witli  those  of  the  Attic  school.  In  the  National 
Museum  at  Naples  there  is  a  fine  reproduction  of  the  Doryphorus  of 
Polycletus,  from  which  we  Learn  what  Doric  Peloponnesian  sculp- 
ture was  at  its  best;  in  like  manner  the  Farnese  Head  of  Juno 
(p.  67 J,  surpassing  all  similar  conceptions  of  the  goddess  in  majestic 
severity  and  repressed  energy,  fitly  affords  an  idea  of  the  master- 
piece of  Polycletus.  In  a  well  known  passage  in  his  history  of  art, 
Winckelmann  describes  perfect  beauty  as  twofold,  as  having  a  double 
grace :  the  one  as  winning,  —  'she  descends  from  her  eminence, 
revealing  herself  to  the  observant  eye  with  a  suavity  devoid  of 
self  abasement :  she  is  not  over  anxious  to  please ,  but  would 
not  be  overlooked'.  The  other  is  self  satisfied  and  would  be  sought 
rather  than  court  attention ,  —  'she  holds  converse  only  with  the 
wise,    appearing  to  the    populace  inimical  and    morose,    she    locks 


ANCIENT  ART.  XXXI 

within  her  breast  the  soul's  vibrations  and  nearly  attains  to  the 
blessed  repose  of  the  divine  nature:  and  thus  according  to  ancient 
writers  the  greatest  artists  sought  to  pourtray  her'.  To  those  who 
know  how  to  observe  will  be  revealed  beneath  the  morose  solemnity 
of  this  Farnese  Juno  an  impressive  picture  of  godlike  repose  and 
majesty. 

The  Old  Attic  School  is  represented  in  Naples  by  the  group 
of  the  tyrant  slayers  Rarmodius  and  Aristogiton(j>.  (>7j,  a  copy  of  that 
work  of  Anterior  which  stood  in  the  market-place  at  Athens.  The 
two  Athenians  rush  to  the  attack,  the  sword  of  the  younger  being 
raised  to  strike  ;  the  older  of  the  two  (the  head  of  this  figure  does 
not  belong  to  it,  the  original  was  bearded)  is  at  hand  to  protect  his 
brave  comrade,  as  soon  as  the  time  comes  for  him  to  interfere ;  and 
here  the  words  of  the  great  authority  already  quoted,  in  reference  to 
the  attributes  of  a  severe  style,  are  applicable:  'The  drawing  was 
impressive  but  hard ,  powerful  but  devoid  of  grace.  The  force  of 
expression  detracts  from  the  beauty'...  'Art  was  hard  and  severe  as 
the  justice  of  the  time  which  punished  the  most  trilling  offence  with 
death'.  Those  who  can  retain  in  the  eye  a  correct  impress  of  forms 
may  compare  the  two  metopes  of  Temple  F  with  this  Attic  group 
of  the  murder  of  Hippias.  The  same  violence  of  action  and  render- 
ing of  form  are  observable  in  both.  But  the  reliefs  appear  wild, 
almost  disordered  and  devoid  of  beauty  beside  the  symmetrical  ac- 
curacy and  precision ,  the  concentrated  power,  the  beautiful  flow  of 
lines  in  the  group  of  statues.  Farther,  a  comparison  of  the  finest 
metopes  from  the  Hera  temple  with  this  and  other  Attic  works  will 
give  an  insight  into  the  various  phases  of  subtlety  and  grace  which 
find  a  place  in  the  collective  Greek  character.  Above  all,  such  a 
comparison  will  direct  attention  to  the  widely  differing  conditions 
requisite  for  the  execution  of  reliefs  intended  for  architectural  de- 
coration from  those  imposed  upon  the  author  of  a  self  contained 
work  in  the  round  on  the  grandest  scale.  This  distinction  must 
neither  be  overlooked  nor  too  lightly  estimated. 

Though  in  the  National  Museum  there  may  not  be  found  any 
very  pure  or  important  example  of  the  Attic  school  of  Phidias'  time, 
a  succeeding  school  is  most  happily  illustrated  by  the  Orpheus  Relief 
(p.  70).  Orpheus  is  permitted  to  bring  his  consort  Eurydice  out  of 
Hades  and  to  restore  her  once  more  to  the  light  of  the  sun  on  con- 
dition that  he  shall  not  look  upon  her  during  the  passage.  He  has 
failed  to  fulfil  this  condition.  Hermes,  the  conductor  of  departed 
souls,  with  gentle  measured  gesture  takes  the  hand  of  Eurydice  to 
consign  her  anew  to  the  realm  of  shades.  In  contemplating  this  com- 
position, beautiful  in  its  simplicity  as  it  is,  hope  and  dismay  altern- 
ately possess  us.  The  advance  of  the  train,  Orpheus  in  the  act  of 
casting  the  fatal  glance ,  the  confiding  communion  of  man  and  wife 
are  quite  unmistakable,  as  well  as  the  interruption  of  their  pro- 
gress and  the  subsequent  return  of  Eurydice.     And  here  we  may 


X.WII  ANUJEJNT    Alii. 

pause  to  wonder  how  antique  art  could  present  powerful  effect 
clothed  in  persuasive  beauty,  or,  if  subdued ,  yet  with  striking  ex- 
pression :  and  with  what  a  modest  expenditure  of  means  she  could 
assert  'this  noble  simplicity  and  grandeur  of  repose'.  Even  in  its 
o'A'ii  time  this  work  must  have  enjoyed  a  considerable  reputation, 
as  replicas  are  still  to  be  seen  in  the  Villa  Albani  at  Rome  and  in 
the  Louvre  at  Paris.  The  Neapolitan  example  is  the  most  beauti- 
ful, and  the  severest  too,  of  those  extant.  It  may  be  remarked,  by 
the  way,  that  the  inscriptions  introduced,  though  they  may  be  cor- 
rect in  the  explanation  they  give ,  must  be  of  doubtful  antiquity. 
—  By  far  the  greater  number  of  sculptures  in  Naples  belong  like 
those  in  Rome  to  a  more  recent  period  of  Greek  art.  The  prostrate 
Amazon  stretched  out  in  death,  a  Dead  Persian,  a  Dead  Giant,  and 
the  Wounded  Gaul,  which  will  be  readily  recognised  from  its  re- 
semblance to  a  master-piece  of  the  Pergamenian  school,  the  Dying 
Gaul  in  the  Museum  of  the  Capitol  (the  so-called  dying  gladiator), 
are  parts  of  a  votive  offering  of  King  Attalus  of  Pergamum  at  Athens, 
of  which  single  figures  are  to  be  seen  in  Venice  and  in  Rome. 

The  colossal  group  of  the  so-called  Farnese  Bull  (p.  66),  which 
brilliantly  represents  the  Rhodban  School,  is  more  likely  to  arrest 
attention.  This  group  will  produce  a  powerful  impression  upon 
most  beholders,  and  this  not  by  force  of  its  material  bulk  alone. 
The  effect  would  have  been  even  more  impressive,  had  the  work  of 
restoration  been  successful,  particularly  in  the  standing  female 
figure.  It  will  be  worth  our  while  to  analyse  the  nature  of  this 
effect,  as  well  as  the  forces  which  contribute  to  it.  An  occurrence 
full  of  horror  is  presented  to  our  view.  Two  powerful  youths  are 
engaged  in  binding  on  the  back  of  a  furious  bull  the  helpless  form 
of  a  woman.  The  mighty  beast  is  plunging  violently,  and  in  another 
moment  will  be  away,  hurrying  the  burden  he  is  made  to  bear  to 
the  terrible  doom  of  a  martyr.  As  soon  as  we  have  attained  to  an 
accurate  conception  of  what  is  passing  before  us,  horror  and  dismay 
rather  than  pity  take  possession  of  us.  What  impels  the  youths 
to  the  deed  ?  How  is  it  that  they  are  allowed  to  effect  their  purpose 
undisturbed?  The  answer  is  to  be  found  outside  the  work  itself. 
Antiope,  expelled  by  her  father,  has  given  birth  to  Amphion  and 
Zethus  ami  abandoned  them.  The  sons  grow  up  under  the  care 
of  an  old  shepherd.  Antiope  has  yet  other  sufferings  to  endure  at 
the  hands  of  her  relation  Dirce  who  maltreated  her.  Dirce  wander- 
ing on  Mount  Cythaeron  in  bacchanalian  revel  would  slay  the 
victim  of  her  persecutions.  She  bids  two  young  shepherds  bind 
Antiope  to  a  bull  that  she  may  thus  be  dragged  to  her  death.  The 
youths  recognise  their  mother  before  it  is  too  late :  they  consign 
Dirce  to  the  doom  prepared  for  Antiope.  The  ancient  Greeks  were 
familiarised  with  this  myth  by  a  celebrated  tragedy  of  Euripides; 
the  .subordinate  work  on  the  base,  the  mountain  god  Cythaeron 
decked  with  Bacchic  ivy,    and  the  Bacchic  Cista  on  the  ground, 


ANCIENT  ART.  XXXIII 

would  help  to  recall  all  the  minor  incidents  of  the  story.     A  doom 
pronounced  by  the  gods  is  executed  ;  the  fate  Dirce  had  prepared  fox 
another  recoils  upon  herself.     But  all  this,   or  at  least  as  much  as 
will  suffice  for  a  satisfactory  understanding  of  the  work  of  art  as 
such,    cannot  be   gathered  from   the  work  itself.     In  the  Orpheus 
relief  we  recognise  without  extraneous  aid  the  separation  of  two 
lovers  calmly  resigned  to  their  fate,  their  severance  by  the  conductor 
of  souls.    An  acquaintance  with  the  exquisite  legend  will  merely 
serve  to  enhance  the  thrilling  emotions  evoked  by  the  sculptured 
forms.    The  Bull  will  excite  our  abhorrence  if  the  story  be  not 
known  to  us ;  while  the  knowledge  itself  and  such  reflections  as  it 
would  suggest   could  scarcely  reconcile  us  to  the  cruelty  of  the 
deed,  nor  help  us  to  endure  without  something  akin  to  petrifaction 
these  moments  of  horror.    But  when  our  thoughts  are  sufficiently 
collected  to  allow  of  our  realising  the  event,  we  are  again  lost  in 
admiring  wonder  at  the  aspiring  courage,   at  the  command  of  all 
artistical  and  technical  resources  possessed  by  the  author  of  this 
sculpture  which  uprears  itself  with  such  unfaltering  power.    The 
base   is   adorned   with   suggestions  of  landscape  and   appropriate 
animal  life  more  elaborately  than  was  then  usual  in  works  of  this 
kind,  although  analogies  are  not  wholly  wanting.  But  the  landscape, 
the  figure  of  the  mountain  god  Cythaeron,   together  with  all  minor 
accessories,   are  far  surpassed  in  interest  by  the  principal  figures 
and  their  action.     The  lovely  feminine  form  of  Dirce  vainly  im- 
ploring the  powerful  youths  whose  utmost  exertions  scarcely  suf- 
fice to  restrain  the  infuriated  beast ,  the  vivid  reality  of  the  whole 
scene ,  the  artistic  refinement  in  the  execution  have  scarcely  yet 
been  sufficiently  admired.   We  readily  concede  to  one  like  Welcker, 
who  brought  the  finest  perceptions  to  bear  on  the  exposition  of 
antique  art,  'that  it  is  impossible  to  attain  to  the  highest  excellence 
in  any  particular  direction  without  at  the  same  time   postponing 
one  or  other  consideration  of  value'.    That  which  was  esteemed  as 
the  highest  excellence ,  the  goal  which  must  be  reached  at  the  cost 
of  all  other  considerations  has  varied  with  successive  epochs  of 
Greek  art.     In  the  present  case  repose  [and  concentration  are  sacri- 
ficed to  the  overwhelming  effect  of  a  momentary  scene.    Even  at 
a  time  when  restoration  could  not  have  interfered  with  the  original 
design ,  the  impression  of  a  certain  confusedness  must  have  been 
conveyed  to  the  spectator,  at  least  at  the  first  glance.     It  is  emin- 
ently characteristic  of  this   group    'that  it  powerfully  arrests  the 
attention  at  a  point  where  an  almost  wild  defiance  of  rule  declares 
itself.    The  contrast  presented  in  the  scene  —  the  terribly  rapid 
and  unceasing  movement  as  the  inevitable  result  of  a  momentary 
pause,  which  the  artist  with  consummate  boldness  and  subtlety  ha6 
known  how  to  induce  and  improve,    give  life  and  energy  to  the 
picture  in  a  wonderful  degree'.     But  Welcker  himself,   from  whom 
these  words  are  borrowed ,  reminds  us  how  this  group  first  arrests 
Bjbdekek.    Italy  III.    6th  Edition.  c 


XXXIV  ANCIENT  ART. 

attention  'by  the  uncommon  character  of  its  appearance'.  The 
group  of  the  Bull  assuredly  displays  excellences  which  belonged 
to  the  antique  of  every  epoch ,  especially  the  intuitive  perception 
that  truth  in  the  sphere  of  art  is  not  identical  with  an  illusory 
realism.  The  conception  of  this  group  proceeds  from  a  complete 
apprehension  of  the  subject  to  be  embodied.  But  this  fulness  of 
apprehension  is  derived  from  the  Tragedy.  From  the  very  beginning- 
plastic  art  and  poetry  have  been  as  twin  streams  springing  from 
one  source  and  flowing  separately,  yet  side  by  side.  Often  indeed 
their  waters  have  met  and  mingled.  But  it  was  long  e'er  the  tide 
of  poetry  seeking  a  separate  channel  helped  to  feed  the  sister 
stream.  The  scene  presented  to  us  by  this  Farnese  group  was 
illustrated  by  Euripides  long  before  its  embodiment  by  plastic  art 
in  his  tragedy,  where  Dirce's  death  is  related  by  the  messenger.  The 
artist  found  material  for  his  inventiveness  at  hand,  which  his  fancy, 
passionately  stimulated,  presently  endowed  with  plastic  form  and 
life  at  a  moment  which  promised  'an  uncommon  appearance',  a 
majestic  and  overpowering  effect  which  should  command  astonish- 
ment and  admiration.  We  have  already  attributed  the  Farnese  group 
to  the  Rhodean  School  in  speaking  of  the  origin  and  development 
of  art.  It  was  the  work  of  two  sculptors  Apollonius  and  Tauriscus 
of  Tralles  in  Asia  Minor ;  for,  according  to  the  Roman  author  Pliny, 
the  group  is  identical  with  one  by  these  artists  which  was  brought 
to  Rome  from  Rhodes,  and  in  all  probability  found  its  way  thence 
to  Naples.  —  The  colossal  group  of  a  man  who  bears  away  the  dead 
body  of  a  boy  on  his  shoulders  is  usually  ascribed  to  the  Rhodean 
School.  It  has  been  described  as  Hector  with  the  body  of  Troilus. 
But  the  corpse  of  a  beloved  brother  saved  from  the  battle-field 
would  hardly  be  seized  in  such  fashion.  It  would  rather  appear 
to  be  that  of  a  victim  borne  away  in  triumph  by  a  ruthless  victor. 

In  Naples  we  have  a  number  of  instructive  examples  of  the 
two  styles  which  are  frequently  designated  as  an  antique  Renais- 
sance, the  New-Attic  School,  and  the  School  of  Pasitkles  ;  of 
the  latter  in  the  bronze  figure  of  Apollo  playing  the  Lyre  from  Pom- 
peii, and  in  the  archaic  simplicity  of  the  affecting  group  of  Orestes 
and  Electra ;  of  the  former  in  the  Vase  of  Salpion,  or  better  still  in 
the  Aphrodite  from  Capua,  the  so-called  Psyche,  and  similar  works. 
In  Naples  abundant  opportunity  will  be  found  for  continuing  the 
study  begun  in  Rome  of  the  heroes  of  an  ideal  world,  of  portraits, 
sarcophagus  reliefs,  or  whatever  else  may  especially  engage  the  at- 
tention. Probably,  however,  curiosity  and  interest  will  be  most 
excited  by  the  appearance  of  antique  paintings  from  Pompeii  and 
the  neighbouring  cities  of  Campania  buried  at  the  foot  of  Vesuvius. 

The  history  of  Greek  Fainting  presents  a  problem  difficult 
of  solution.  Happily  we  have  outlived  the  superstition  that  the 
people  amongst  whom  the  Parthenon  arose,  and  who  gave  birth  to 
a  sculptor  such  as  Phidias,   should  have  contributed   in  painting 


ANCIENT  ART.  XXXV 

nothing  worthy  of  record.  What  wo  most  desire,  however,  is  still 
wanting.  We  are  not  in  possession  of  any  work  by  a  master  of  the 
art ;  but  only  of  the  products  of  a  subordinate  and  mechanical  art, 
and  these  only  from  a  single  and  comparatively  Tecent  period. 

The  greatest  painter  of  the  older  time  —  and  probably  one  of 
the  greatest  artists  of  all  times  —  was  Polygnotus  ,  a  native  of 
Thasos.  He  lived  for  the  most  part  in  Athens,  where  he  was  pre- 
sented with  the  rights  of  citizenship,  and  was,  though  a  contemporary 
of  Phidias,  his  senior.  As  Phidias  was  a  favourite  of  Pericles  and 
employed  by  him.  it  would  appear  that  Polygnotus  was  a  protege  of 
Cimon.  Pausanias,  the  Greek  author  of  travels  (in  the  time  of 
Antoninus),  had  seen  two  large  paintings  by  Polygnotus  covering 
the  wall  in  Delphi,  and  has  minutely  described  them.  In  the  one 
the  fall  of  Troy  was  represented,  in  the  other  scenes  from  the  nether 
world.  In  the  first  the  Trojan  Cassandra  is  the  centre  figure.  Ajax 
has  offered  violence  to  her:  she  sits  on  the  ground,  in  her  hand  the 
image  of  the  insulted  Athena ;  around  her  the  Greek  heroes  are 
sitting  in  judgment  upon  Ajax.  In  the  background  is  the  citadel 
of  Troy,  the  head  of  the  wooden  horse  reaches  above  its  wall,  which 
Epeios,  the  builder  of  the  horse,  is  about  to  demolish.  Right  and 
left  of  the  central  group  are  scenes  of  destruction  ;  heaps  of  the 
slain ,  the  savage  Neoptolemus  still  persisting  in  his  work  of 
slaughter,  captive  women,  and  terrified  children ;  nor  were  more 
inviting  scenes  wanting.  Close  to  the  captive  Trojan  women  Aethra 
was  seen,  the  liberated  slave  of  Helen  ,  and  farther  back  the  tent 
of  Menelaus  is  taken  down  and  his  ship  equipped  for  departure. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  picture  was  recognised  the  house  of  An- 
tenor,  which  the  Greeks  had  spared,  while  he  himself  and  his 
family  make  ready  to  quit  their  desolated  home  and  depart  for 
foreign  lands.  Thus  the  entire  centre  of  the  composition  has  refer- 
ence to  the  crime  committed  after  the  conquest,  which  called  aloud 
for  punishment  by  the  gods  ;  these  scenes  of  death  and  horror  were 
enclosed  at  the  extremities  by  more  peaceful  incidents  —  the 
horror  of  the  lower  world  whose  shades  envelope  renowned  heroes 
and  heroines  ;  Odysseus  compelled  to  descend  to  the  abode  of  the 
departed  —  all  this  Polygnotus  combined  in  one  grand  picture, 
skilfully  alternating  peace  and  the  torments  of  hell,  prodigious 
ghastliness  and  tender  grace.  Polygnotus  has  not  only  embodied  in 
these  pictures  the  mythical  matter  with  which  religious  rites,  epic 
poem,  vulgar  tradition  and  humour,  as  well  as  the  earlier  works  of 
plastic  art,  could  furnish  him ;  not  only  had  he  animated  this 
material  with  captivating  motives  strongly  appealing  to  the  be- 
holder's imagination  ;  but  he  had,  as  may  still  be  recognised,  while 
painting,  asserted  his  power  as  a  poet  and  supplied  much  that  was 
original  in  the  realm  of  fancy.  The  technical  means  at  the  disposal 
of  Polygnotus  were  so  limited,  so  simple  and  antiquated,  that  in 
the  Roman  times  admiration  of  his  pictures  was  ridiculed  as  a  con- 

n* 


XXXVI  ANCIENT  ART. 

ceit  of  dilettantism  —  jvtst  as  at  one  time  it  was  customaiy  to  scoff 
at  the  admirer  of  Giotto.  Nevertheless  with  these  simple  means, 
Polygnotns  could  express  himself  with  so  much  clearness,  so  nobly 
and  sublimely,  that  Aristotle  boasted  of  him  that  his  forms  were 
more  noble  and  grander  than  were  commonly  seen  in  life ,  while 
the  painter  Pauson  presented  men  worse  than  they  really  were,  and 
Dionysius  was  true  to  nature.  Having  regard  to  these  separate  qua- 
lifications he  suggested  that  the  youthful  eye  should  receive  its  im- 
pressions from  Polygnotus  and  not  from  Pauson.  In  later  times  the 
beauty  of  Polygnotus'  pictures  continued  to  charm  :  in  the  second 
century  A. D.  his  Cassandra  supplied  an  author  of  refinement  and 
penetration,  like  Lucian,  with  the  material  for  a  description  of  fe- 
minine beauty. 

While  the  fame  of  Polygnotus  and  his  contemporaries  rested 
principally  on  wall  paintings ,  later  critics  would  maintain  that 
those  of  his  successors  who  first  produced  artistic  effect  in  portable 
pictures  were  the  only  true  painters.  As  the  first  painter  in  this 
sense  the  Athenian  Apollodorus  may  be  named.  The  work  which 
he  began  was  completed  by  Zeuxis  of  Heraclea  and  Pab.bha.sius  of 
Ephesus.  We  still  possess  a  description  by  Lucian  of  the  Centaur 
family  by  Zeuxis.  The  female  Centaur  reclines  on  the  grass,  the 
human  upper  part  of  the  body  being  raised  and  supported  by  the 
elbow.  One  of  her  two  infants  she  holds  in  her  arms  giving  it 
nourishment  in  human  fashion  ;  the  other  sucks  as  a  foal  her  teats. 
The  male  Centaur  looks  down  from  above.  He  holds  in  his  right 
hand  a  lion  cub  which  he  swings  over  his  shoulder  as  if  jokingly 
to  frighten  his  youngones.  'The  further  excellences  of  the  picture,' 
modestly  continues  Lucian,  though  evidently  an  accomplished 
connoisseur ,  'which  to  us  laymen  are  but  partially  Tevealed, 
which  nevertheless  comprise  the  whole  of  art's  resources,  correct 
drawing,  an  admirable. manipulation  and  mingling  of  colour,  man- 
agement of  light  and  shade,  a  happy  choice  of  dimension,  as 
well  as  just  relative  proportion  of  parts  to  the  whole ;  the  combined 
movement  of  the  composition  —  these  are  qualities  to  be  extolled 
by  one  of  art's  disciples  who  has  mastered  the  subject  in  its  detail'. 
This  eloquent  description  by  Lucian  has  been  made  the  subject  of 
a  spirited  drawing  by  Genelli.  Unfortunately  no  such  record  of 
Parrhasius'  works  remains.  The  credit  of  having  first  applied 
symmetry,  i.  e.  probably  the  systematic  regard  for  the  proportion 
recognised  by  later  leaders  in  art,  to  painting,  is  claimed  for  Par- 
rhasius, as  well  as  delicacy  and  grace  in  the  artistic  rendering  of  the 
countenance  and  hair.  He  is  said,  too,  to  have  been  supreme  in 
the  management  of  contour.  But  in  later  times  Parrhasius  was 
esteemed  simple  as  a  colorist  compared  with  Apelles. 

The  authors  to  whom  are  ascribed  most  of  the  notices  of  painters 
that  we  possess,  distinguish  different  schools.  The  Hblladic 
School  included  the  painters  of  Athens  and  those  of  the  mother 


ANCIENT  ART.  XXXVII 

country  of  Greece  along  with  those  of  Sicyon.  But  owing  to  the 
preeminence  achieved  for  Sicyon  by  the  painter  Eupompus,  the 
Helladic  school  was  again  subdivided  under  the  title  of  Sicyonic 
and  Attic  or  Attic-Theban ,  after  certain  artists  of  these  schools. 
To  this,  or  these  schools  rather,  was  opposed  the  Asiatic  (Ionic). 
Pausias,  whose  name  is  known  to  us  by  Goethe's  exquisite  poem, 
was  one  of  the  Sicyonian  School,  and,  so  it  appears,  was  that  spirited 
painter  Timanthes.  His  best  known  work  is  his  Iphigenia.  She 
stood  at  the  altar  ready  to  be  sacrificed ,  surrounded  by  the  heroes 
of  the  Grecian  camp,  in  whose  persons,  according  to  the  character 
of  each  and  with  due  regard  to  appropriateness,  was  pourtrayed 
every  degree  of  mental  anguish.  Agamemnon  himself  veiled  his 
head.  Nicomachus,  Aristides,  Euphranor,  likewise  renowned  as 
sculptor  and  master  of  heroic  representation ,  and  Nicias  the  friend 
of  Praxiteles  belong  to  the  Theban-Attic  school.  Amongst  the  pic- 
tures of  Aristides  was  one  of  a  woman  wounded  during  the  siege. 
She  is  dying  while  her  infant  still  clings  to  her  breast.  In  the  ex- 
pression of  the  mother's  countenance  could,  it  was  thought,  be  read 
the  fear  lest  her  blood  should  be  mingled  with  the  milk  the  child 
was  sucking.  —  The  most  brilliant  master  of  the  Ionic  school  — 
though  he  had  had  the  advantage  of  studying  his  art  in  Sicyon  — 
the  most  renowned  indeed  of  the  painters  of  antiquity,  was  Apbllks, 
the  contemporary  of  Alexander  the  Great,  and  incomparable  in  his 
power  of  expressing  grace  in  all  its  forms.  As  yet  we  are  not  in  pos- 
session of  any  distinct  clue  to  the  character  of  his  most  esteemed 
works,  of  Artemis ,  with  her  band  of  attendant  Nymphs  clustering 
around  her,  hurrying  to  the  chase,  nor  of  Aphrodite  rising  from  the 
sea.  We  are  more  fortunate  in  the  instance  of  two  younger  painters, 
Aetion  and  Timomachus.  Of  the  nuptials  of  Alexander  by  Aetion 
we  have  again  a  masterly  description  by  Lucian,  with  which  all  are 
acquainted  who  have  seen  the  beautiful  Eaffaelesque  composition  in 
the  Palazzo  Borghese  at  Rome.  The  Medea  of  Timomachus  is  to 
be  traced  in  a  series  of  imitations  or  reminiscences,  on  monuments 
of  different  kinds,  but  most  remarkably  in  a  mutilated  picture  from 
Herculaneum,  and  again  in  another  perfectly  preserved  from 
Pompeii. 

The  services  thus  rendered  us  by  the  Campanian  towns  in 
bringing  to  light  the  works  of  Timomachus  encourage  us  to  hope 
that  they  may  be  repeated  in  the  case  of  other  Greek  celebrities. 
It  is  in  fact  concluded  with  a  considerable  show  of  probability  that 
in  the  Pompeian  representations  of  the  liberation  of  Andromeda  by 
Perseus  are  to  be  recognised  influences  of  a  picture  by  Nicias.  It 
has  frequently  been  attempted  with  much  pains,  and  with  aid  of 
more  or  less  audacious  assumptions  and  combinations,  to  contrive 
copies  of  these  renowned  Greek  masters,  and  when  after  all  it  has 
been  found  that  such  efforts  are  for  the  most  part  vain  and  futile, 
it  has  been  urged  in  explanation  of  the  failure  that  our  acquain- 


XXXVIII  ANCIENT  ART. 

tance  with  celebrated  cabinet  pictures  is  too  limited.  We  must, 
then,  however  unwillingly,  accept  the  conclusion  that  anything  more 
than  a  very  qualified  belief  in  Pompeian  pictures  is  impossible. 
They  are  invaluable  as  a  clue  to  many  qualities  which  were  com- 
mon to  the  painting  of  antiquity  ;  invaluable ,  too ,  because  they 
assuredly  possess,  in  obedience  to  the  unvarying  traditions  of  an- 
tique art  —  which  having  taken  a  theme  in  hand  would  work  it  out 
to  the  last  possible  variation  —  a  wealth  of  imagery  and  redundance 
of  lineament  which  connect  them  more  or  less  closely  with  the  works 
of  the  great  masters.  But  it  is  scarcely  to  be  wondered  at  that  the 
authenticity  of  copies  from  celebrated  cabinet  pictures  of  the  best 
period  should  be  so  rarely  established,  or  wear  even  the  appearance 
of  probability ;  it  were  a  wonder  indeed  if  so  much  could  be  accom- 
plished. 

Demosthenes  Teminds  his  countrymen  in  scathing  words  how 
in  the  palmy  days  of  Athens  the  noblest  edifices  were  erected  in 
honour  of  the  gods,  while  the  dwellings  of  the  most  distinguished 
Athenians  were  simple  and  inconspicuous  as  those  of  their  neighbours. 
Even  at  the  time  these  words  were  spoken  a  change  had  come  over 
Greek  life.  For  the  stern  sublimity  of  the  creations  of  an  earlier  time, 
Art  had  substituted  a  milder  and  more  effeminate  type  of  divinity, 
nor  did  she  now  disdain  to  enter  the  abodes  of  men.  The  splendour 
which  had  been  reserved  for  the  gods,  now  found  its  way  into  pri- 
vate dwellings.  What  at  first  had  been  a  hold  innovation  and  an 
exception ,  presently  grew  into  a  universal  requirement.  From  the 
epoch  of  culture  inaugurated  by  Alexander  onwards ,  sculptor  and 
painter  alike  contributed  to  the  artistical  beauty  and  sumptuous 
adornment  of  dwelling-houses.  Inventiveness,  displayed  in  the 
designing  and  ornamentation  of  household  furniture  of  every  kind, 
followed  as  a  matter  of  course ,  and  though  in  Athens  and  Hellas 
expenditure  in  this  way  remained  moderate,  in  other  great  cities,  as 
Alexandria  in  Egypt  and  Antioch  in  Syria ,  artist  and  handicrafts- 
man alike  vied  with  the  wealth  and  luxury  of  the  inhabitants,  not 
only  in  beautifying  the  cities  externally,  but  in  lavishing  upon  the 
dwelling-houses  of  the  rich  the  utmost  attainable  splendour.  Plans 
were  extended  and  adapted  to  the  employments  and  highest  enjoy- 
ment of  life  ;  floors,  walls,  and  ceilings  were  arranged  and  decorated 
in  ever  new  and  varying  style.  Then  decoration  in  stucco  and 
painting  was  supplemented  by  mosaic  work  which  enlivened  the 
floors  with  an  effect  as  charming  as  that  of  painting ;  nor  was  it 
long  restricted  to  the  floors.  Along  with  other  elements  of  culture 
the  Roman  world  had  borrowed  from  the  Greek  the  beautifying  of 
their  houses,  and  as  movement  is  never  absolutely  suspended,  this 
taste  received  in  Roman  times  a  farther  impetus  in  its  original 
direction.  We  may  safely  assume,  however,  reasoning  from  analogy, 
that  it  departed  farther  and  farther  from  the  purity  and  harmony  of 
the  Greek  pattern. 


ANCIENT  ART.  XXXIX 

In  the  picture  which  Pompeii  presents  as  a  whole  we  see  the 
last  trace  of  that  combined  art  and  beauty  which  with  the  later 
Greeks  permeated  life  in  every  vein  and  in  all  its  phases  :  a  feeble 
and  faded  picture  it  must  remain,  however  active  the  fancy  may 
be  investing  it  with  attributes  belonging  to  Hellenic  art  in  the 
zenith  of  its  splendour.  From  an  earlier  period,  when  the  influence 
of  the  Greek  was  more  directly  felt,  we  have  not  received  much  from 
Pompeii  that  is  instructive.  The  general  impression  is  derived 
from  the  restorations  consequent  on  the  earthquake  of  the  year  63 
A.D.  The  great  mass  of  deoorations  is  the  work  of  the  sixteen 
years  intervening  between  A.D.  63  and  the  town's  final  destruction 
in  A.D.  79,  and  was  in  the  newest  fashion  then  prevailing  in  Rome, 
but  necessarily  on  a  scale  commensurate  with  the  resources  of  a  pro- 
vincial town.  As  the  Roman  senate  had  ordered  the  rebuilding  of  the 
town,  the  pay  of  handicraftsmen  would  doubtlessly  be  attractive 
enough.  The  houses  were  made  habitable  with  the  utmost  de- 
spatch and  received  their  decorations  with  the  same  haste.  It  is  im- 
possible but  to  believe  that  the  greater  number  of  houses  were  thus 
completed  by  a  comparatively  small  number  of  masters  with  their 
staffs  of  workmen.  They  had  their  pattern  books  for  the  decoration 
of  entire  rooms  and  walls,  as  well  as  for  simple  pictures,  and  they 
resorted  to  these  pattern  books  more  or  less  according  to  their  need 
or  fancy.  The  favourite  motives  and  forms  were  so  familiar  to 
them  that  they  had  them  literally  at  their  fingers'  ends :  with  incre- 
dibly certain  and  facile  hand,  and  without  concerning  themselves 
about  means  or  method,  they  fling  their  gaud  and  glitter  over  the 
naked  walls.  And  very  captivating  is  this  stirring  picture-pattern 
world  which  moved  obedient  to  their  will.  Vistas  of  airy  fantastical 
forms  architecturally  disposed  and  decked  with  wreaths  and  gar- 
lands delusively  mask  the  narrow  limits  of  the  allotted  space ; 
while,  by  way  of  completing  the  illusory  effect  of  this  mock  archi- 
tecture, graceful  figures  move  in  the  midst,  or  from  the  open  window 
look  in  upon  the  chamber.  Arabesques,  sprays  and  borders  of 
foliage  and  flowers,  and  garlands  gracefully  enliven  and  divide  the 
walls ;  while  in  the  midst  of  the  enclosed  spaces,  from  a  dark  back- 
ground, figures  single  or  in  pairs  stand  out  in  dazzling  relief,  and 
whether  winged  or  otherwise  are  always  lightly  and  surely  poised. 
Here  and  there  lovely  maidens  are  seen  dancing  in  mid  air;  Eros 
tinkles  on  the  strings  of  the  lyre  which  Psyche  holds ;  Satyrs  and 
Nymphs,  Centaurs  and  Bacchantes,  female  figures  with  candelabra, 
flowers  and  fruits  people  this  airy  realm  of  fancy.  Separate  pic- 
tures at  intervals  engage  the  attention.  They  tell  the  story  of  the 
handsome  but  unsusceptible  Narcissus,  of  Adonis  the  favorite  of 
Aphrodite,  whose  early  loss  the  goddess  bewails  with  Eros,  of  Phae- 
dra's shameless  passion  for  Hippolytus;  the  loves  of  Apollo  and 
Daphne,  of  Ares  and  Aphrodite,  Artemis  and  Acfeeon,  Ariadne 
abandoned  by  Theseus ,   the  story  of  Leda ,  the  life  and  pursuits  of 


XL  ANCIENT  ART. 

Bacchus  and  his  followers,  of  the  god  finding  the  forsaken  Ariadne, 
and  of  Satyrs  pursuing  Nymphs.  Scenes  of  terror,  too,  there  are  : 
Dirce  bound  to  the  Bull,  Medea  meditating  the  murder  of  her 
children,  the  sacrifice  of  Iphigenia  —  hut  even  these  are  rendered 
with  an  effect  of  sensuous  beauty  so  entrancing  that  they  are  lost 
in  the  gladsome  world  of  exuberant  life  about  them.  Mere  tragedy, 
mere  convulsive  effort,  acquired  no  enduring  power  over  the  senses  : 
they  are  rather  beguiled  by  the  remembrance  of  some  captivating- 
legend,  some  transient  impulse,  a  throb  of  compassion,  which  infuse 
a  wholesome  element  into  pictures  abounding  with  expressions  of 
rapturous  delight.  Where  passion  exerts  itself  it  is  but  for  the 
moment  —  the  power  of  love  for  good  or  evil ,  the  beauty  of  the 
human  form,  moments  of  bliss  whether  of  mortals  or  the  immor- 
tals —  such  is  the  material  for  an  ever  recurring  theme.  Bits  of 
landscape,  houses  with  trees,  rocks,  or  a  grotto  on  the  strand  are 
suggestive  of  idyllic  delights.  And  around  these  more  conspicuous 
figures  are  grouped  an  accompaniment  of  small  friezes  with  pic- 
torial accessories  grave  and  gay,  still  life,  animals  and  incidents  of 
the  chase,  pygmies,  masks,  fresh  fruit,  and  household  vessels. 

The  liveliest  impression  is  made  by  the  best  examples  of 
figures  separately  poised  on  the  walls.  Curiosity  is  most  excited 
by  the  separate  pictures ;  they  are  the  last  remnant  of  the  historical 
painting  of  the  old  world.  They  cannot,  however,  enable  us  to 
form  a  just  estimate  of  the  works  of  the  greatest  ancient  masters. 
If  genuine  and  adequate  copies  of  celebrated  cabinet  pictures  from 
the  best  period  were  to  be  found  amongst  Pompeian  decorations  it 
would  be  by  an  accident  altogether  exceptional  and  capricious. 
The  artist-bands  who  subsequently  to  the  earthquake  of  A.D.  63 
pushed  their  work  so  easily  and  so  rapidly  had  neither  these  ca- 
binet pictures  nor  the  genuine  and  adequate  copies  to  guide  them, 
but  simply  the  drawings  of  their  pattern  books. f  Thoroughly  trained 
as  they  were  mechanically  to  the  work ,  they  turned  their  sketches 
to  the  best  possible  account,  transferred  them  on  the  required  scale, 
making  additions  or  omissions  as  the  case  might  be,  varying,  modi- 

t  There  have  been  long  standing  differences  of  opinion  about  the  me- 
chanism of  painting  practised  in  Pompeii.  A  solution  of  the  problem  is 
the  result  of  researches  conducted  by  the  painter  O.  Donner  (in  a  work 
published  by  Helbig ,  entitled  'Wall  paintings  of  the  cities  of  Campania 
destroyed  by  Vesuvius' ,  Leipsic  1869).  According  to  this  authority  it  is 
certain  that  the  greater  number  of  the  pictures  as  well  as  wall  decora- 
tions were  painted  in  fresco  ,  i.  e.  upon  a  newly  prepared  and  moistened 
surface  —  and  only  in  exceptional  cases  and  as  a  makeshift  upon  a  dry 
ground.  Conclusive  evidence  of  this  is  afforded  by  the  presence  to  which 
Donner  refers  of  so-called  Fresco-edges ,  i.  e.  of  spots  where  the  newly 
prepared  surface  came  in  contact  with  what  was  already  dry. 

The  surface  intended  for  the  reception  of  colour  was  prepared  by  the 
painters  of  antiquity  with  such  care  that  it  retained  the  moisture  much 
longer  than  in  recent  tmu's  has  been  found  attainable.  Thev  were  thus 
enabled  to  cover  large  wall  spaces  without  interruption  and  in"  this  respect 
had  a  considerable  advantage  over  us  moderns. 


ANCIENT  ART.  XLT 

fyiftg  and  curtailing,  as  necessity,  fancy,  and  the  measure  of  their 
eapaoity  might  prescribe.  The  enclosed  pictures  which  in  graceful 
inventiveness  and  execution  often  enough  surpassed  the  forms  oc- 
cupying the  open  spaces,  cannot  be  considered  apart  from  the 
general  decoration  with  which  in  manner  and  method  they  are 
identical.  They  betray  moreover  in  spite  of  all  that  is  beautiful 
and  admirable  about  them,  symptoms  of  degeneracy;  just  as  the 
wall  decorations  of  Pompeii  descending  from  elegance  to  the 
Trivialities  of  mock  architecture  exhibit  a  degeneracy  which  must 
not,  however,  be  regarded  as  in  herent  in  the  art  of  which  we  see 
here  but  a  feeble  reflection.  Thus  we  learn  that  the  way  from  the 
great  painters  of  Greece  to  the  wall  pictures  of  Pompeii  is  neither 
near  nor  straight,  but  long  and  too  often  hard  to  find.  Many  of 
the  forms  and  groups  so  gracefully  poised  in  the  open  wall  spaces 
may  in  their  origin  have  reached  back  so  far  as  to  the  happiest 
period  of  Greek  art ;  it  is  also  possible,  that,  when  framed  pictures 
were  for  the  first  time  painted  on  the  walls  of  houses  in  the  epoch 
of  Alexander,  or  at  whatever  other  period  this  style  of  decoration 
came  into  vogue,  celebrated  easel-pictures  were  copied  or  laid 
under  contribution.  The  designers  of  the  pattern  books  may  have 
betaken  themselves  to  a  variety  of  sources ,  they  may  have  ap- 
propriated and  combined ,  as  old  and  new  patterns ,  entire  de- 
corations together  with  separate  figures  and  finished  pictures.  Like 
the  pattern  books  for  the  sarcophagus  reliefs  they  must  have  been 
full  of  ideas  and  motives  derived  from  an  earlier  and  nobler  art. 
And  as  wall  painting  is  more  akin  to  high  art  we  may  encourage 
the  hope  that  patient  research  will  often  be  rewarded  by  discovering 
—  as  hitherto  amidst  a  tanglement  of  conflicting  evidence  —  not 
the  works  themselves  of  the  great  masters,  but  those  traces  of  their 
work  which  we  so  eagerly  seek.  In  Pompeii,  however,  we  learn  the 
necessity  of  caution,  for  we  there  find  examples  of  a  much  earlier 
style  of  decoration  than  the  '  Pompeian'. 

No  one  could  overlook  the  solemn  dignity  of  aspect  which  make 
the  Cam  del  Fauno  conspicuous  amidst  the  mass  of  habitations  in 
Pompeii.  Here  beauty  reveals  itself  in  column  and  capital,  cornice 
and  panelling,  favorably  contrasting  with  the  gaudy  frippery  of  a 
fantastical  mock  architecture  with  its  pictorial  accompaniments. 
The  wealthy  family  which  occupied  this  mansion  may  have  rejoiced 
in  the  possession  of  many  a  costly  cabinet  picture.  But  at  the 
time  the  house  was  built  it  was  not  yet  the  custom,  or  it  was  not  the 
owner's  pleasure  to  follow  the  newest  fashion.  In  their  place  a 
complete  series  of  the  finest  mosaics  formed  a  part  of  the  general 
decoration  of  the  house.  These  are  still  partially  preserved  and  to 
be  seen  on  the  spot.  Here  the  celebrated  Battle  of  Alexander  was 
found,  grand  in  composition,  and  a  genuine  example  of  high  art,  in 
which  we  recognise  once  more  the  magic  touch  of  Greek  genius  : 
how  with  the  simplest  possible  means  the  loftiest  excellence  was 


XLII  ANCIENT  ART. 

achieved ;  here,  too,  we  gain  an  insight  into  the  method  pursued  by 
the  great  painters  in  their  works.  A  very  different  and  far  grander 
art  declares  itself  in  these  mosaics  than  in  the  wall  paintings.  The 
other  mosaics  found  in  this  mansion  also  rank  high  in  point  of 
beauty  as  well  as  in  precision  and  purity  of  drawing,  and  owing  to 
the  difficulties  of  reproduction  in  mosaic  consequent  on  the  nature 
of  the  material  the  fact  becomes  doubly  suggestive  that  in  effectual 
and  complete  mastery  of  drawing  there  is  nothing  in  the  whole 
range  of  Pompeian  pictures  to  surpass  the  border  of  masks,  garlands, 
foliage  and  fruits  of  the  Casa  del  Fauno  or  the  mosaics  attributed 
to  the  artist  Dioscorides.  But  we  may  well  delight  in  the  air  of 
cheerful  airy  grace  pervading  these  pictorial  decorations  of  Pom- 
peii ,  in  this  precious  heritage  of  Grecian  —  and  in  part  old  Gre- 
cian —  life  and  beauty  which  a  licentious  posterity  has  scattered 
over  its  dazzling  walls. 

Whoever  has  had  eye  and  sense  alike  familiarised  with  the 
wonders  of  antique  art  will  be  richly  repaid  by  a  visit  to  Athens, 
the  venerable  city  of  Pericles  and  Phidias.  Here,  in  spite  of  the 
ravages  of  time,  he  will  find  the  fulfilment  of  his  cherished  desire. 
For  he  is  in  the  home  of  all  that  is  most  noble  and  precious,  of 
what  Rome  and  Naples  had  afforded  him  but  a  glimpse  and  a 
foretaste.  There  is  not  a  fragment,  whether  bearing  inscription  or 
relief,  to  be  picked  up  on  the  Acropolis  of  Athens  that  does  not 
tell  how  religion  ,  art,  and  eivic  life  were  constantly  interwoven  ; 
how  deeply  they  were  Tooted  in  their  native  soil.  And  on  the 
loftiest  summit  of  this  castle  rock,  towering  above  all  surround- 
ing objects,  there  yet  stands  the  most  strikingly  impressive  and 
splendid  record  of  this  composite  life,  a  witness  of  the  time 
when  the  Attic  people  were  at  the  height  of  their  prosperity  and 
their  greatness  —  the  Parthenon  of  Pericles ,  having  an  import  in 
its  ruins  which  elevates  and  engrosses  the  soul. 

The  Doric  structure  is  in  its  general  scope  very  much  what  we 
see  in  Paestum,  only  of  finer  material,  purer  form,  and  more  uni- 
form completeness.  Thought  and  feeling  are  distinctly  traceable 
in  the  simple  and  beautiful  proportions  of  the  Poseidon  Temple, 
though  in  a  guise  somewhat  primitive  and  harsh.  We  are  im- 
pressed by  the  dense  array  of  stout  columns,  and  never  doubt  their 
power  to  sustain  with  their  broad  capitals  the  weight  of  ponderous 
entablature  and  roof  imposed  upon  them.  In  the  Parthenon  a 
forest  of  pillars  rear  themselves  above  the  majestic  flight  of  marble 
steps  which  separate  and  lift  the  building  from  the  earth  'which 
slender,  but  stalwart  seem  to  defy  the  impending  burden' ;  'and 
this  burden  itself,  the  entablature  and  roof,  is  so  richly  elaborated, 
so  forcibly  projected,  is  so  harmoniously  adjusted  in  its  proportions 
to  the  structure  beneath,  that  the  conflict  between  burden  and 
bearer  which  in  earlier   times   was   so  apparent  is  here  no  longer 


ANCIENT  ART.  XLIII 

recognised  as  conflict.  The  more  intently  we  gaze,  the  more  are  we 
impressed  as  with  the  glories  of  Nature ;  above  all  in  the  structure 
as  a  whole  we  behold  not  only  the  enchantment,  but  the  entire 
solemnity  of  beauty,  and  as  we  endeavour  to  analyse  this  effect,  it 
resolves  itself  into  wonder  that  the  mind  which  controlled  the  shap- 
ing of  each  part  should  yet  have  failed  to  endow  the  mighty  unit 
with  the  talisman  of  life'.  We  may  not  indeed  recognise  the  hand 
of  Ictinus  in  the  building ;  but  by  a  comparison  with  the  temple 
now  known  as  that  of  Theseus ,  intrinsically  beautiful  as  it  is,  we 
see  plainly  enough  with  what  good  reason  the  work  of  this  master 
was  highly  prized ;  we  can  participate ,  too ,  in  the  admiration  for 
Mnbsiclbs,  the  architect  of  the  Propylaea.  The  genius  of  Phidias 
was  associated  with  that  of  Ictinus.  The  creations  of  his  hand  are 
to  be  seen  in  pediment ,  metopes  and  interior  frieze  —  wherever 
sculpture  would  be  admissible  or  could  be  called  into  requisition. 
In  Athens  herself,  too,  enough  remains  to  convince  us  of  the  force 
and  richness  of  these  sculptures.  But  instead  of  the  goddess  herself 
whq  stood  in  her  shrine,  colossal  in  size  and  wrought  in  gold  and 
ivory,  we  have  an  unfinished  statuette  only,  probably  once  rejected 
as  a  failure,  which  at  best  can  but  convey  in  the  vaguest  pos- 
sible manner  an  idea  of  the  mere  material  characteristics  of  the 
original  statue  without  affording  a  glimpse  of  its  amazing  beauty 
and  richness. 

Besides  the  works  of  the  great  masters,  besides  Propyl&a, 
Parthenon,  Erechtheum  and  Temple  of  Victory,  besides  the  Theseum 
and  the  elegant  Lysicrates  Monument,  the  Sepulchral  Reliefs  which 
form  so  large  a  part  of  the  Athenian  collections,  and  which  by  the 
Dipylon  afford  a  distinct  picture  of  an  Athenian  street  of  tombs  or 
Attic  cemetery,  claim  our  attention.  They  perhaps  show  most 
clearly  how  every  class  of  the  Athenian  community  was  possessed 
with  a  sense  of  the  beautiful ;  how  the  obscurest  handicraftsman, 
though  he  might  not  soar  on  the  wings  of  genius ,  still  might  in 
time  come  to  share  his  acquisitions.  Amongst  these  sepulchral 
reliefs  are  single  examples  of  considerable  antiquity,  such  as  the 
stele  of  Aristion  which  bears  his  portrait,  attired  as  warrior  in  full 
armour.  The  majority  belong  to  the  4th  century  B.C.  and  a  time 
shortly  ensuing.  Amongst  other  particulars  the  sepulchral  relief 
records  the  manner  of  the  deceased's  death.  Thus  the  youthful 
Dexileus,  who  fell  in  glorious  battle  at  Corinth  in  B.C.  394,  is 
represented  fighting  on  horseback.  The  most  prevalent  style, 
however,  is  that  of  the  so-called  family-scenes.  They  are  indeed 
family  pictures,  but  not  of  everyday  or  indifferent  moments. 
Separation  and  sorrow  are  expressed  in  gentle  and  temperate,  but 
unmistakable  manner.  Husband  and  wife,  father  and  mother, 
parent  and  children  and  relations  offer  the  hand  in  parting;  and 
when  on  the  grave  of  a  matron  or  maiden  a  festive  scene  is  intro- 
duced, a  reference  to  death  was  never  very  remote. 


XL1V  ANCIENT   ART. 

But  just  as  in  Athens  we  are  made  sensible  that  classic  art  is 
not  a  mere  historical  phenomenon  like  hundreds  of  others ,  but  has 
a  definite  retrospective  value  which  cannot  be  ignored ,  there  it  is 
that  our  regrets  for  all  that  is  lost  or  destroyed  must  be  most  pro- 
found. Even  now  we  are  linked  by  a  thousand  invisible  chains 
to  the  inspired  achievements  of  the  foremost  Greeks.  Travel  and 
life  in  these  southern  lands  will  tend  not  a  little  to  awaken  and 
foster  the  conviction  that  we  should  do  ill  to  sever  these  bonds. 
He  to  whom  this  conviction  remains,  even  though  it  be  the  solitary 
fruit  of  his  travel,  will  have  little  occasion  for  regret. 


1.    From  Rome  to  Naples  by  Railway. 

Two  main  roads  lead  from  Borne  to  Naples :  one  along  the  coast  by 
Terracina  (R.  2),  the  ancient  Via  Appia ;  the  other  through  the  valley  of 
the  Sacco  and  Garigliano,  the    Via  Lutina;  both  uniting  near  Capua. 

The  Railway,  completed  in  1862  (163  M.  in  length),  is  now  the   most 
important  means    of  communication    between  Central   and  Southern  Italy. 
Duration  of  journey  7'|4-10  hrs. ;    fares  by  the  through  trains,  34  fr.  25  c 
23  fr.  50  c. ;  by  the  ordinary  trains,  28  fr.  75,  19  fr.  90  c,  14  fr.  —  Coinp. 
p.  xviii. 

The  finest  views  are  generally  to  the  left. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  city,  the  train  diverges  from  the  Civita 
Vecchia  line.  On  the  right  rise  the  arches  of  the  Acqua  Felice  and 
the  Acqua  Marcia,  and  beyond  them  are  the  tombs  of  the  Via  Appia. 
The  Sabine  and  Alban  mountains  rise  on  the  left.  Stations:  9  M. 
Ciampino,  where  the  line  to  Frascati  diverges;  11  M.  Marino; 
18  M.  Albano,  2  M.  from  the  town.  (See  Baedeker's  Central  Italy.) 
To  the  right  we  obtain  a  glimpse  of  Monte  Circello  (1771  ft.  ;  p. 
13),  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea ;  nearer  are  the  Volscian  Mts.  — 
20'/2  M.  Civita  Lavinia,  the  ancient  Lanuvium. 

26  M.  Velletri  (*Locanda  Campana,  *Gallo,  each  with  a  Trat- 
toria), the  ancient  Velitrae,  a  town  of  the  Volscians,  which  became 
subject  to  Rome  in  B.  C.  338,  is  famous  for  its  wine  (pop.  16,300). 
It  stands  picturesquely  on  a  spur  of  the  Monte  Artemisio ,  nearly 
Y2  M.  from  the  station.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked.  Vel- 
letri is  the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of  Ostia.  The  loggia  of  the 
Palazzo  Lancelotti  commands  a  beautiful  and  extensive  view. 
Diligence  from  Velletri  toCori,  see  Handbook  for  Central  Italy; 
to  Terracina,  see  p.  11. 

The  train  passes  between  Mte.  Artemisio  and  Mte.  Ariano 
(Alban  Mts.)  on  the  left,  and  Mte.  Santangelo  and  Lupone  (Vols- 
cian Mts.)  on  the  right,  and  turns  E.  towards  the  valley  near  the 
Mte.  Fortino,  in  which  lies  — 

35Y3  M.  Valmontone ,  a  small  town  on  an  isolated  volcanic 
eminence,  possessing  a  handsome  chateau  of  the  Doria  Pamfili. 

The  train   now  enters    the   valley  of    the  Sacco,    the    ancient 

Trerus  or  Tolero,   and  skirts  its  left  bank,   running  parallel  with 

the  ancient  Via  Latina.     This  well-cultivated  valley,  bounded  on 

both  sides  by  mountains  rising  to  a  height  of  4000  ft.,  was  the  ter- 

Baedekee.    Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  1 


2      Route  l.  ANAGNI.  From  Rome 

ritory  of  the  Hernici  (see  below).  To  the  right  Monte  Fortino, 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  hill-side. 

40y.2  M.  Segni,  the  Signia  of  the  Romans,  founded  by  the  last 
Tarquin  with  a  view  to  keep  the  Volsci  and  Hernici  in  check, 
and  still  possessing  huge  remnants  of  the  ancient  walls  and  gate- 
ways ,  is  a  very  venerable  place ,  situated  on  the  hill  to  the  right, 
about  o'/o  M.  from  the  railway. 

46  M.  Anagni  (*Locanda  d' Italia) ,  once  a  flourishing  town, 
and  in  the  middle  ages  frequently  a  papal  residence,  lies  on  the 
heights  to  the  left,  5  M.  from  the  station  (omnibus  1  fr.).  Here, 
on  7th  Sept.  1303,  Pope  Boniface  VIII.,  then  considerably  ad- 
vanced in  years ,  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  French  knight 
Guillaume  de  Nogaret,  acting  in  concert  with  the  Oolonnas,  by 
order  of  King  Philippe  le  Bel,  but  was  set  at  liberty  by  the 
people  three  days  afterwards.  The  *Cattedrale  di  S.  Maria,  a  well- 
preserved  edifice  of  the  11th  cent. ,  and  pure  in  style,  is  adorned 
with  a  mosaic  pavement  by  the  master  Cosmas ,  and  in  the  crypt 
with  ancient  frescoes.  The  treasury  contains  vestments  of  Inno- 
cent III.  and  Boniface  VIII. 

The  next  towns,  with  the  imposing  ruins  of  their  ancient 
polygonal  walls,  are  also  situated  on  the  hills  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  line.  This  is  the  territory  of  the  Hernici, 
with  the  towns  of  Anagnia,  Aletrium,  Ferentinum,  and  Verulae, 
which  allied  themselves  with  Rome  and  Latium  in  B.  0.  486, 
but  were  subjugated  by  the  Romans,  after  an  insurrection,  in 
B.  C.  306.  The  environs  of  these  towns  are  extremely  picturesque, 
but  enquiry  should  be  made  as  to  the  state  of  the  country,  which 
is  still  somewhat  unsettled. 

49!/o  M.  Sgurgola  (from  which  Anagni  may  also  be  reached: 
4  M.)  is  a  village  on  the  hill  to  the  right,  above  the  Sacco ;  still 
higher  is   Carpineto. 

551/2  M.  Ferentino.  The  town  lies  on  the  hill  (1450  ft.)  to 
the  left,   3  M.   from  the  line. 

Ferentino  (Hotel  des  Etrangers),  the  ancient  Ferentinum,  a 
town  of  the  Volsci,  afterwards  of  the  Hernici,  was  destroyed  in 
the  2nd  Punic  War ,  and  afterwards  became  a  Roman  colony 
(pop.  10,200).  The  ancient  polygonal  town-wall  is  still  traceable 
throughout  nearly  its  whole  circuit ;  a  gateway  on  the  W.  side 
especially  deserves  notice.  The  castle,  whose  walls  now  form  the 
foundation  of  the  episcopal  palace,  occupies  the  highest  ground 
within  the  town.  The  Cathedral  is  paved  with  remains  of  an- 
cient marbles  and  mosaics.  The  font  in  the  small  church  of 
tf.  Giovanni  Erangelixta  is  ancient.  Interesting  antiquities  and 
inscriptions  will  also  be  observed  in  other  parts  of  the  town. 

Higher  up  among  the  mountains,  9'/a  31.  from  Ferentino,  and  about  the 
same  distance  from  Frosinone  (see  helow)  and  Anagni,  lies  the  town  of 
Alatri,    the  ancient  Aletrium,   picturesquely  situated  on    an  eminence,    and 


to  Naples.  CEPRANO.  1.  Route.      3 

presenting  an  admirably  preserved  specimen  of  the  fortifications  of  an  an- 
cient city.  The  :  walls  of  the  castle,  constructed  of  huge  polygonal 
blocks,  are  still  entire;  the  gateway  attracts  special  attention  on  account 
of  the  stupendous  dimensions  of  the  stones  of  which  it  is  composed.  The 
town  with  its  gates  occupies  the  exact  site  of  the  ancient  town.  Below  it 
the  direction  of  the  walls  may  be  traced.  The  town  and  castle  were  pro- 
vided with  an  aqueduct,  a  work  which  testifies  to  the  skill  in  hydrodyna- 
mics attained  in  ancient  times,  as  the  water  must  have  been  forced  up- 
wards  from   the   valley  from   a  depth  of  330  ft. 

At  a  distance  of  3  M.  is  the  famous  "Grotla  di  Collepardo ,  extending 
upwards  of  2000  ft.  into  the  limestone  rock,  with  beautiful  stalactites. 
About  3j^  M.  farther  is  observed  an  extensive  depression  in  the  soil,  called 
//  Pozzo  oVAnlullo  ,  Several  hundred  yards  in  circumference  and  200  ft.  in 
depth,  overgrown  with  grass  and  underwood. 

On  a  hill,  about  5  M.  to  the  S.  E.  of  Alatri ,  is  situated  Veroli ,  the 
ancient   Verulae,    from  which  a  road  leads  to  Isola  and  Sora  (p.  188). 

QO1^  M.  Frosinone.  The  town  (Locanda  de  Matteis;  pop. 
9300),  situated  on  the  hill,  2  M.  from  the  railway,  is  identical 
with  the  ancient  Volscian  Frusino,  which  was  conquered  by  the 
Romans  in  B.  C.  304.  The  relics  of  walls  and  other  antiquities  are 
scanty,   hut  the  situation  is  very  beautiful. 

70  M.  Ceccano.  The  village  is  most  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
hill-side,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Sacco,  the  valley  of  which 
now  contracts.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  to  the  left  of  the  river, 
once  lay  the  ancient  Fabrateria  Vetus,  numerous  inscriptions  from 
which  are  built  into  the  walls  of  the  church  by  the  bridge.  A 
road  leads  from  Ceccano  over  the  hills  to  Piperno  and  Terra- 
cina  (p.  13). 

70  M.  Pofi.  76  M.  Ceprano,  formerly  the  frontier  station  [Re- 
freshment-room). Outside  the  station  a  pleasing  glimpse  is  obtain- 
ed of  the  valleys  of  the  Liris  and  the  Tolero.  The  town  of  Ceprano 
(Locanda  Nuova)  is  2i/2  M.  from  the   station. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Liris,  which  descends  from  the  N., 
from  the  region  of  the  Lago  Fucino,  forming  the  old  boundary  of 
the  States  of  the  Church.   771/,2  M.  Isoletta. 

In  the  vicinity ,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Liris,  in  the  direction  of 
S.  Giovanni  in  Carico  ,  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  ancient  Fregellae,  a 
Roman  colony  founded  in  B.  C.  328,  and  a  point  of  great  military  im- 
portance, as  it  commanded  the  passage  of  the  river.  It  was  destroyed 
by  the  Romans  in  B.  C.  125,  in  consequence  of  an  insurrection,  and  Fabra- 
leria  Nova  was  founded  in  its  stead.  A  number  of  antiquities  may  be 
seen  in  the  Giardino  Cairo,  at  the  village  of  fi.  Giovanni  in  Carico,  3  31. 
from  the  station. 

The  train  now  traverses  the  broad  and  fertile  valley  of  the 
Liris ,  or  Qarigliano ,  as  it  is  called  after  its  union  with  the 
Sacco.  82'/2  M.  Roccasecca.  Diligence  hence  to  the  valley  of 
the  Liris  and  the  Lago  Fucino ,  in  connection  with  the  night- 
trains  to  and  from  Naples,   see  R.  17. 

85^2  M.  Aquino,  the  ancient  Aquinum ,  a  small  town  pic- 
turesquely situated  on  the  hill  to  the  left,  is  celebrated  as  the 
birthplace  of  the  satirist  Juvenal  (under  Domitian)  and  of  the  phi- 
losopher Thomas  Aquinas.    The  illustrious  'doctor  angelicus',   son 

1* 


4       Route  1.  SAN  GERMANO.  From  Rome 

of  Count  Landulf,  was  born  in  1224  in  the  neighbouring  castle 
of  Rocca  Seeoa,  ami  was  educated  in  the  monastery  of  Monte 
Casino  (p.  5}.  The  Emperor  Pescennius  Niger  was  also  a  native 
of  Aquinum. 

Aquino  lies  on  a  mountain  stream,  in  a  beautiful  and  salu- 
brious district.  By  the  side  of  the  Via  Latina  may  be  distin- 
guished the  relics  of  the  ancient  Roman  town  :  inconsiderable  frag- 
ments of  walls,  a  gateway  (Porta  S.  Lorenzo),  a  theatre,  remains 
of  temples  of  Ceres  (S.  Pietro)  and  Diana  (8.  Maria  Maddalena), 
and  a  triumphal  arch.  Near  the  stream  are  the  ruins  of  S.  Maria 
Libera,  a  basilica  of  the  11th  cent.,  commonly  called  II  Vescovado, 
occupying  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple,  and  consisting  of  hand- 
some nave  and  aisles.  Above  the  portal  is  a  well-preserved  Madonna 
in  mosaic. 

Beyond  Aquino,  on  a  bleak  mountain  to  the  left,  the  cele- 
brated monastery  of  Monte  Casino  (p.  5)  becomes  visible. 

93  M.  San  Germane  —  Carriage  from  the  station  to  the  town 
l\t  ft",  (bargain  necessary).  Inns:  Villa  Rapido  ,  bad;  Locanda  dei 
Gilrati,  very  unpretending,  but  clean,  outside  the  town,  on  the  road  to 
the  amphitheatre;  near  it  the  "Trattoria  Casino. 

A  visit  to  S.  Germano  and  Monte  Casino  may  easily  be  accomplished 
within  a  stay  of  21  hrs.  (Luggage  may  either  be  forwarded  direct  from 
Rome  tci  Naples,  or  left  at  the  8.  Germano  station.)  On  arriving,  the  tra- 
veller ,  having  partaken  of  some  refreshment  in  the  town ,  may  either 
first  explore  the  ruins  of  Casinum  (for  which  ,  however  ,  he  would  have 
time  on  the  following  day) ,  or  proceed  at  once  to  the  monastery  of 
Monte  Casino  (I1/;;  hr. ;  donkey  I'Jz  fr.).  The  excursion  should  be  so 
arranged  that  the  traveller  may  return  to  the  town  a  considerable  time 
before  sunset ;  at  the  same  time  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  visitors 
are  strictly  excluded  from  12  to  3.  30  o^clock.  The  monastery  is  justly 
noted  for  its  hospitality,  and  affords  good  quarters  for  the  night,  although 
the  fare  is  sometimes  of  a  frugal  description.  No  payment  is  demanded, 
but  the  traveller  should  give  about  as  much  as  he  would  have  paid  at  a 
hotel.  Ladies  are  of  course  admitted  to  the  church  only.  Travellers  who 
wish  to  spend  the  night  here  should  apply  to  the  padre  forestteraio. 
Letters  of  introduction  will  he  found  very  useful.  At  an  early  hour  on 
Sundays  and  holidays  the  church  and  courts  of  the  monastery  are  crowded 
with  country-people  from  the  neighbouring  mountain  districts,  whose 
characteristic  physiognomies  and  costumes  will  be  scanned  with  interest 
by  the  traveller.  Those  who  return  to  S.  Germano  to  pass  the  night 
should  allow  5  hrs.  lor  the  whole  excursion. 

San  Germano,  which  has  of  late  resumed  its  ancient  name  of 
Ctissino,  a  town  with  12,000  inhab.,  is  picturesquely  situated  in 
the  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  Casino,  on  the  small  river  Rapido 
(Lat.  Viniux),  3/t  M.  from  the  station,  and  is  commanded  by  a 
ruined  castle.  It  occupies  nearly  the  same  site  as  the  ancient 
Casinum,  which  was  colonised  by  the  Romans  in  B.  C.  312,  and 
was  afterwards  a  flourishing  provincial  town.  On  its  ruins  sprang 
up  San  Germano  during  the  middle  ages.  Pillars  of  great  anti- 
quity are  still  to  be  seen  in  the  churches.  Various  courts  have 
been  held  here  by  popes  and  emperors,  and  in  1230  Cregory  IX. 
was  reconciled  here  with  Frederick  II.  The  foggy  character  of  the 
climate  is  alluded  to  by  the  ancients. 


to  Naples.  MONTE  CASINO.  1 .  Route.     5 

After  traversing  the  uninteresting  town,  we  turn  to  the  left 
and  follow  the  road  coming  from  the  N.,  which  coincides  with 
the  Via  Latina.  About  1/-2  M.  from  the  town,  on  the  right,  are 
situated  the  colossal  remains  of  an  *  Amphitheatre,  which,  accor- 
ding to  an  inscription  preserved  at  Monte  Casino,  was  erected  by 
Ummidia  Quadratilla  at  her  own  expense.  The  foundress  is  men- 
tioned by  Pliny  in  his  letters  (vii.  !24)  as  a  lady  of  great  wealth, 
who  up  to  a  very  advanced  age  was  an  ardent  admirer  of  theatrical 
performances.  Farther  on,  and  a  little  higher  up,  stands  a  square 
monument  built  of  large  blocks  of  travertine,  with  four  niches,  and 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  now  converted  into  the  church  *del 
Crocefisso  (custodian  3-4  soldi).  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
Rapido  lay  the  villa  of  M.  Terentius  Varro,  where,  as  we  are 
informed  by  Cicero  (Phil.  ii.  40),  M.  Antony  afterwards  indulg- 
ed in  his  wild  orgies.  —  The  path  leading  back  to  the  town  from 
Crocefisso  is  probably  the  ancient  Via  Latina,  and  traces  of  anci- 
ent pavement  are  occasionally  observed.  From  this  path,  by  keep- 
ing to  the  high  ground  to  the  left,  we  may  proceed  to  M. 
Casino  without  returning  to  the  town. 

The  monastery  of  *  Monte  Casino,  situated  on  a  lofty  hill 
to  the  W.  of  the  town,  is  reached  in  l1/^  "r-  The  path,  which 
cannot  be  mistaken,  affords  exquisite  views  of  the  valley  of  the 
Garigliano  and  the  surrounding  mountains.  The  monastery  was 
founded  by  St.  Benedict  in  529,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple 
of  Apollo,  to  which  Dante  alludes  (Parad.  xxii.  37),  and  from 
its  magnificent  situation  alone  would  be  entitled  to  a  visit. 

The  extensive  edifice,  the  interior  of  which  resembles  a  castle  rather 
than  a  monastery,  is  entered  by  a  low  passage  through  the  ruck,  where 
St.  Benedict  is  said  to  have  had  his  cell.  Several  Colkts  are  connected  by 
arcades.  The  central  one  has  a  fountain  of  very  good  water,  adorned  with 
statues  of  St.  Benedict  and  his  sister  St.  Scholastica.  On  a  square  space 
higher  up,  enclosed  by  columns  from  the  ancient  temple  of  Apollo,  stands 
the  Church,  erected  in  1727  to  replace  the  ancient  edilice  founded  by  St. 
Benedict.  The  fortunes  of  the  abbey  are  recorded  in  Latin  above  the 
entrance  of  the  hall.  The  principal  door  of  the  church  is  of  bronze 
and  is  inscribed  with  a  list,  inlaid  in  silver,  of  all  the  possessions  of  the 
abbev  in  1066.  It  was  executed  at  Constantinople  by  order  of  the  Abbot 
Desiderius,  afterwards  Pope  Victor  III.  The  interior  is  richly  decorated 
with  marble,  mosaics,  and  paintings.  On  each  side  of  the  high  altar 
is  a  mausoleum;  one  to  the  memory  of  Pietro  de'  Medici  (p.  18),  who 
was  drowned  in  the  Garigliano  in  1503,  executed  by  Fraiia-sco  Samjullo  by 
order  of  Clement  VII.  :  the  other  that  of  Ouidone  Fieramosca,  last  Prince 
of  Mignano.  Beneath  the  high  altar,  with  its  rich  marble  decorations,  re- 
pose the  remains  of  St.  Benedict  and  his  sister  St.  Scholastica.  The  sub- 
terranean chapel  contains  paintings  by  Marco  da  Siena  and  Ma::anippi. 
The  choir-stalls  are  adorned  with  admirable  carving  (by  Culin-iu,  1696), 
and  the  chapels  adjoining  the  altar  with  costly  mosaics.  Above  the  doors 
and  on  the  ceiling  are  frescoes  bv  Lnca  (iiunlaiio  11677 1,  representing  the 
miracles  of  St.  Benedict  and  the' foundation  of  the  church.  The  organ  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  Italy.  In  the  refectory  is  the  -.Miracle  of  the  Loaves', 
by  Bassatw. 

At  a  very  early  period  the  Library  was  celebrated  ior  the  31SS. 
executed  bv  the  monks.  To  the  Abbot  Desiderius  of  the  lltb  cent,  we 
are  probably  indebted  for  the  preservation  of  Varro,  and    perhaps  ot  other 


(3     Route  1.  MONTE  CASINO.  From  Rome 

authors.  The  handsome  saloon  at  present  contains  a  collection  of  about 
10  000  vols.,  among  which  are  numerous  rare  editions  published  during  the 
infancy  of  the  printer's  art.  The  MSS.  and  documents  are  preserved  in  the 
archives  in  the  passage  leading  to  which  a  number  of  inscriptions  are  built 
into  thewall,  most  of  them  rescued  from  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Casinum. 
Among  the  MSS.  are:  the  commentary  of  Origen  on  the  Epistle  to  the 
Romans,  translated  bv  Rufus,  dating  from  the  6th  cent. ;  a  Dante  with  mar- 
ginal notes,  of  the  14th  cent,  (the  archives  contain  an  interesting  portrait 
of  the  poet);  the  vision  of  the  monk  Alberic,  which  is  said  to  have  sug- 
gested the  first  idea  on  which  Dante  founded  his  work  ;  various  classical 
authors,  the  original  MSS.  of  Leo  of  Ostia  and  Riccardo  di  San  Germano. 
The  Archives  comprise  a  still  rarer  collection,  consisting  of  about  800 
documents  of  emperors,  kings,  dukes,  etc.,  and  the  complete  series  of 
papal  bulls  which  relate  to  Monte  Casino,  beginning  with  the  11th  cent., 
many  of  them  with  admirable  seals  and  impressions.  Among  the  letters 
arc  those  exchanged  by  Don  Eras/no  Gtittola,  the  historian  of  the  abbey, 
with  learned  contemporaries.  At  the  end  of  an  Italian  translation  of 
Boccaccio's  'De  Claris  Mulieribus'  is  a  letter  of  Sultan  Mohammed  II.  to 
Pope  Nicholas  IV.,  complaining  of  the  pontiffs  preparations  for  war  and 
promising  to  be  converted  as  soon  as  he  should  visit  Rome,  together 
with  an  unfavourable  answer  from  the  pope.  An  ancient  bath-seat  in 
rosso  antico,  found  on  the  bank  of  the  Liris,  is  also  preserved  here.  The 
tower  in  which  St.  Benedict  is  said  to  have  lived  contains  pictures  by 
Xovlli,   Spagnoletto,  and  others. 

The  Benedictine  monastery  of  Monte  Casino,  which  will  pro- 
bably be  allowed  to  continue  its  existence  in  the  form  of  an  edu- 
cational establishment,  has  ever  been  conspicuous  for  the  admirable 
manner  in  which  its  inmates  have  discharged  their  higher  duties. 
They  are  the  intelligent  keepers  of  one  of  the  most  precious  libraries 
in  the  world ,  and  they  educate  200  students  of  theology.  The 
monks  at  present  number  about  thirty,  including  Tosti,  the 
historian  of  literature,  and  there  are  ten  lay  brethren,  twenty 
pupils  of  the  upper  classes,  and  numerous  servants.  The  revenues 
once  amounted  to  100,000  ducats  per  annum,  but  are  now  reduced 
to  about  20,000. 

The  monastery  commands  a  magnificent  prospect  in  all  di- 
rections, which  the  visitor  should  not  omit  to  enjoy  from  the 
different  points  of  view.  To  the  W.  and  >S.  extends  the  broad 
valley  of  the  Garigliano  with  its  numerous  villages,  separated  from 
the  Gulf  of  Gaeta  by  a  range  of  hills,  and  the  sea  is  occasionally 
distinguishable.  To  the  K.  is  the  valley  of  S.  Germano,  com- 
manded by  the  rocky  summits  of  the  Abruzzi.  To  the  N.  a  wild 
mountainous  district. 

Close  to  the  monastery  rises  the  Monti;  Cairo,  upwards  of  5000  ft.  in 
height,  which  may  be  ascended  in  3-4  lira.;  the  view  from  the  summit 
is  considered  one  of  the  finest  in  Italy,  extending  from  M.  Cavo  in  the 
Alban  range  to  Camaldoli  near  Naples. 

Continuation  of  Journey  to  Naples.  To  the  left,  beyond 
S.  Germano,  we  perceive  the  villages  of  Cemuro,  S.  Vittore,  and 
S.  l'Utro  in  Fine.  100  M.  Rocca  d'Ernndro.  The  train  quits  the 
valley  of  the  Garigliano,  and  enters  a  richly  cultivated  defile 
beyond  which  the  country  towards  the  right  becomes  flatter. 
1041/.2  M.  Mii/nnno.  The  train  now  runs  towards  the  S.  through  a 
a  barron,    undulating  tract,    which    separates  the    Uarigliano  from 


to  Naples.  CAPUA.  1 .  Route.      7 

the  Volturno.  107  M.  Presenzano,  which  lies  on  the  slope  to  the 
left. 

114  M.  Caianiello  Vairano,  whence  a  high  road  leads  through 
the  Abruzzi  to  Pescara  on  the  Gulf  of  Venice  (  U.  15 ),  and  to  Aquila 
and  Temi  (R.  16). 

117Y2M.  liiardo;  the  village,  with  an  old  castle,  lies  on  the 
left. 

121  M.  Teano;  the  town  (Locanda  dell'  Italia;  5000  inhab.) 
lies  at  some  distance  to  the  right,  at  the  base  of  the  lofty  liocca 
Monfina,  an  extinct  volcano  (3420  ft.).  The  extensive,  but 
dilapidated  old  castle  was  erected  in  the  15th  cent,  by  the  dukes 
of  Sessa.  Ancient  columns  in  the  cathedral,  inscriptions,  remains 
of  a  theatre,  and  other  antiquities  are  now  the  sole  vestiges  of 
the  venerable  Teanum  Sidicinum,  once  the  capital  of  the  Sidicini, 
which  was  conquered  by  the  Samnites  in  the  4th  cent.  B.C.,  after- 
wards subjugated  by  the  Romans,  and  in  Strabo's  time  the  most 
flourishing  inland  city  of  Campania  after  Capua. 

From  Teano  the  train  turns  to  the  right  to  the  village  of  — 

125^2  M.  Sparanisi,  whence  a  road  leads  to  Gaeta  (p.  17). 

About  4  31.  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  railway  to  the  left  lies"  Calm,  the 
ancient  Cales ,  a  Human  colony  ftninded  B.  C.  332 ,  the  wine  of  which 
(vinum  Calenum)  is  praised  by  Horace.  It  now  consists  of  a  few  houses 
only,  but  contains  an  ancient  amphitheatre,  a  theatre,  and  other  anti- 
quities.    Carriage  with  one  horse  from  Capua,  and  back,  2-3  fr. 

As  the  train  proceeds  we  obtain  for  the  first  time  a  view  of  Mt. 
Vesuvius  in  the  distance  to  the  right,  and  then  of  the  island  of 
Capri  in  the  same  direction.  124!/2  M-  Pignataro.  The  train  now 
intersects  the  plain  of  the  Volturno,  a  river  94  M.  in  length,  the 
longest  in  Lower  Italy.  We  now  enter  upon  the  vast  plains  of  the 
ancient  Campania  (now  Terra  di  Lavoro),  which,  like  the  Cam- 
pagna  di  Roma,  are  of  volcanic  origin  ,  but  incomparably  superior 
in  fertility,  and  admirably  cultivated.  The  district,  one  of  the 
most  luxuriant  in  Europe  ,  is  capable  of  yielding,  in  addition  to 
the  produce  of  the  dense  plantations  of  fruit-trees,  two  crops  of 
grain  and  one  of  hay  in  the  same  season. 

135  M.  Capua.  —  Inns.  Albekgo  &  Teattokia  del  Centro  ,  in 
the  Piazza  de1  Giudici.  —  Carriage  from  the  station  to  the  town  with 
one  horse  25,  with  two  horses  50  c;  to  Caserta  1  fr.  70  c.  or  3  fr. ;  to 
Aversa  3  or  6  fr.;  to  S.  Maria  Capua  Vetere  85  c.  or  1  fr.  70  c. ;  to  S. 
Angelo  in  Formis  1  fr.  20  or  2  fr.  50  c. 

Capua,  a  fortified  town  with  13,000  inhab.,  the  residence  of 
an  archbishop,  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Volturno,  by  which  the 
greater  part  of  it  is  surrounded.  It  was  erected  in  the  9th  cent., 
after  the  destruction  of  the  ancient  Capua,  on  the  site  of  Cusi- 
linum,  a  town  which  was  conquered  by  Hannibal  after  an  obstinate 
resistance,  and  fell  to  decay  in  the  time  of  the  emperors.  Turn- 
ing to  the  right  on  entering  the  town,  and  taking  the  first  street 
to  the  left,  we  reach  the  Piazza  de'  Giudici,  or  market-place  in 
6  min.,  and  then  enter  the  Via  del  Duomo  to  the  right. 


8     Route  1.        iS.  MARIA  DI  CAPUA  VKTEKE.     From  Rome 

The  Cathedral,  dating  from  the  11th  cent.,  possesses  a  hand- 
some entrance  court  with  ancient  columns,  hut  in  other  respects 
has  been  entirely  modernised. 

Intekioi;.  3rd  Chapel  on  the  left:  Madonna  della  Rosa  of  the  13th 
century.  3rd  Chapel  on  the  right:  Madonna  with  two  saints  by  Silvestro 
dc'  ISnoni.  The  Chypt,  dating  from  the  Romanesque  period,  but  now  mo- 
dernised, contains  Mosaics  from  an  old  pulpit,  a  Roman  Sarcophagus 
with  a  representation  of  the  Hunt  of  Meleager,  and  a  Holy  Sepulchre  by 
Bernini,   being  one  of  his  best  works. 

The  Via  del  Duomo,  passing  through  an  archway,  leads  to  the 
Corso  Museo  Campano.  (Proceeding  thence  in  a  straight  direction, 
we  may  reach  the  ramparts,  which  command  a  pleasing  view  of 
the  Voltumo.)  In  this  street,  on  the  right,  is  situated  the  Museo 
Campano,  which  is  entered  from  the  first  side-street  on  the  right. 
It  is  open  to  the  public  daily,  9-3  o'  clock,  except  on  Sundays  and 
festivals. 

The  Col-kt  contains  reliefs  from  the  amphitheatre  of  Capua  (p.  9); 
inscriptions;  ancient  sarcophagi,  including  one  of  the  period  of  Con- 
stantine;  mediseval  tomb-monuments ;  a  sitting  statue  of  Frederick  II., 
erected  by  the  Capuans,  now  sadly  mutilated  and  without  its  head; 
heads  of  statues  of  Petrus  de  A'ineis  and  Thaddaeus  of  Suessa.  The 
rooms  in  the  iNTEPaoit  countain  ancient  terracottas,  vases,  coins,  a  few 
pictures  of  little  value,  and  a  small  library. 

The  bridge  across  the  Volturno,  restored  in  1756,  is  adorned 
with  a  statue  of  St.  Nepomuc.  Beyond  it  is  an  inscription  in 
memory  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  The  Torre  Mignana  within, 
and  the  Cappella  de'  Morti  without  the  town  commemorate  the 
sanguinary  attack  made  on  Capua  by  Caesar  Borgia  in  1501,  on 
which  occasion  5000  lives  were  sacrificed. 

On  our  left  after  the  train  has  crossed  the  Volturno,  lies  the 
battle-field  on  which  King  Francis  II.  was  defeated  by  the  Gari- 
baldians  and  Piedmontese  on    1st  Oct.   1S60. 

139  M.  S.  Maria  di  Capua  Vetere.  —  Inn.  Locanda  Roma  in 
the  Piazza.  —  Carriage  with  one  horse  per  drive  in  the  town"30,  with 
two  horses  60  c.;  to  Caserta  (4  M.)  1  or  2  fr. ;  to  Capua  (3'|2  31.1  85  c.  or 
1  fr.  70  c.  ii. 

S.  Maria  is  a  prosperous  little  town,  on  the  site  of  the  celebrat- 
ed ancient  Capua,  containing  some  interesting  ruins. 

Capua,  founded  by  the  Etruscans  and  afterwards  occupied  by  Sabellian 
tribes,  entered  into  alliance  with  the  Romans  B.C.  343,  for  the  sake  of  protec- 
tion against  the  attacks  of  the  Samnites.  Owing  to  the  luxuriant  fertility  of 
the  district,  the  power  and  wealth  of  the  city  developed  themselves  at  an 
early  period,  but  it  soon  became  noted  for  its  effeminacy  and  degeneracy. 
When  in  the  zenith  of  its  prosperity  it  was  the  largest  city  in  Italy  after  Rome 
and  contained  300,000  inhabitants.  In  the  2nd  Punic  War,  after  the  battle  of 
Cannfe  (B.  C.  216),  it  entered  into  an  alliance  with  Hannibal,  who  took  up  his 
winter-quarters  here.  That  his  army  bad  become  so  enervated  by  their  resi- 
dence at  Capua  as  no  longer  to  be  a  match  for  the  Romans,  is  doubtless  a  mere 
hypothesis.  Certain,  however,  it  is,  that  the  Romans  soon  regained  their  su- 
periority, and  after  along  siege  reduced  the  town,  I!.  C.  211.  Its  punishment 
was  a  severe  one,  and  the  inhabitants  were  entirely  deprived  of  all  civic  pri- 
vileges. It  was  rescued  from  its  abject  condition  by  Cresar,  and  under  his  suc- 
cessors regained  its  ancient  splendour.  It  continued  to  prosper  until  the  wars 
of  the  Goths.  Vandals,  and  Lombard!).  In  the.Sth  cent,  it  was  destroyed  by  the 
Saracens,  and  the  inhabitants  emigrated  to  the  modern  Capua  (p.  8), 


to  Naples.  CASKRTA.  /.  Route.      9 

Proceeding  straight  from  the  station,  taking  the  first  street  to 
the  left,  and  following  the  Via  S.  Sebastiano  in  nearly  the  same 
direction  to  its  farther  end  (5  min.),  we  turn  to  the  left  into  the 
Via  Anfiteatro  which  leads  in  a  curve  round  the  town  to  (10  min.) 
the  ancient  amphitheatre.  Before  reaching  it,  we  cross  an  open  space 
where  we  observe  on  the  left  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  Triumphal  Arch, 
now  a  gate,  through  which  the  Capua  road  passes. 

The  *Amphithkatrk  of  Capua  (gratuity  7'2  fr-  for  l-'2  pers.), 
which  is  said  to  be  the  most  ancient,  and  after  the  Colosseum  at 
Rome  the  largest,  in  Italy,  is  constructed  of  travertine.  The  longer 
diameter  is  185  yds.,  the  shorter  li~)'2  yds.  in  length.  The  arena 
measures  83  yds.  by  49  yds.  Three  of  its  passages  are  tolerably 
well  preserved,  but  of  the  80  entrance  -  arches  two  only.  The 
keystones  are  decorated  with  images  of  gods.  The  Arena  ,  with 
its  substructions,  passages,  and  dens  for  the  wild  beasts  (to  which 
a  staircase  descends  from  the  passage  to  the  left),  is,  like  that 
of  Pozzuoli,  better  denned  than  that  of  the  Colosseum  at  Rome. 
The  Passages  contain  remains  of  ancient  decorations  ,  fragments 
of  columns  ,  bas  -  reliefs ,  etc.  To  the  right,  near  the  entrance, 
the  visitor  may  ascend  to  the  upper  part  of  the  structure,  in 
order  to  obtain  a  survey  of  the  ruins  themselves,  and  of  the  ex- 
tensive surrounding  plain.  Large  schools  were  once  maintained 
at  Capua  for  the  training  of  gladiators,  and  it  was  here  in  B.C. 
83,  that  the  dangerous  War  of  the  Gladiators  under  Spartacus  the 
Thracian  broke  out,  which  was  with  difficulty  quelled  by  Crassus 
two  years  later. 

Above  Capua  rises  Mtrns  Tifata,  once  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Jupiter, 
now  crowned  by  a  chapel  of  8.  Nicola.  At.  its  base,  about  4'la  31.  from 
S.  Maria ,  stands  the  old  church  of  5.  Angelo  in  Formi* ,  with  Byzantine 
frescoes  of  the  11th  cent,  (valuable  in  the  history  of  art),  occupying  the 
site  of  a  celebrated  temple  of  Diana,  around  which  a  village  had 
established  itself. 

The  high  road  from  Capua  to  Maddaloni  (p.  10)  by  S.  Maria 
and  Caserta  presents  a  scene  of  brisk  traffic ;  and  a  drive  by 
carriage  (pp.  7,  8)  through  this  garden-like  district  is  preferable  to 
the  railway  journey.  The  road  from  S.  Maria  to  Caserta  (a  drive  of 
3/4  hr.)  passes  two  handsome  Roman  tombs. 

1421/.)  M.  Caserta  —  Hotcli.  "Vittokia,  with  garden.  II.  2, 
A.  3|4  fr.  ;~Villa  Reale,  well  spoken  of;  both  in  the  Via  Vittoria;  Villa 
di  Fieenze,  near  the  palace;  all  with  trattoric.  —  In  the  round  piazza 
with  its  colonnades,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town  from  the  palace,  is  a 
favourite  Cafi. 

Carriage  with  one  horse  per  drive  35,  with  two  horses  60  c.  For  a 
Visit  to  the  Palace  (interior  9-4:  the  garden  till  sunset  I  a  permesso  from 
the  royal  intendant  at  the  Palazzo  Reale  at  Naples  (p.  40)  is  required, 
hut  it  may  if  necessary  be  obtained  through  one  of  the  hotel-keepers  at 
Caserta.     Fee  1  fr.;  for  the  chapel  25  c. 

Cnserta,  a  clean  and  well-built  town  with  19,000  inliab.  and 
a  large  garrison,  may  be  called  the  Versailles  of  Naples.  It 
possesses  several  palaces  and  barracks,   and  is  the  residence  of  the 


10      Route  1.  MADDALONI. 

prefect  of  the  Terra  di  Lavoro.     It  was  founded  in  the  8th  cent, 
by   the  Lombards  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  but  the  modern  town 

stands    on   lower    ground. 

The  *  Royal  Palace  of  Caserta,  opposite  the  station,  was  erected 
in  1 7 52  by  Vanritelli,  by  order  of  King  Charles  III.,  in  the  richest 
Italian  palatial  style.  It  forms  a  rectangle.  The  S.  side  is  830  ft. 
long  and  134  ft.  high,  with  thirty-seven  windows  in  each  story. 
The  courts  of  the  palace  are  traversed  by  a  colonnade,  from  the 
centre  of  which  the  staircase  ascends.  The  palace  is  at  present 
unoccupied. 

Tlie  Chapel,  lavishly  decorated  with  marble,  imitated  lapis  lazuli, 
and  gold,  contains  a  'Presentation  in  the  Temple'  by  Mengs,  five  paintings 
by  Count,  and  an  altar-piece  by  Bunilu.  —  The  Theatre  is  adorned  with 
twelve  Corinthian  miliums  of  African  marble  from  the  temple  of  Sera- 
pis  at  Po/.zuoli,  and  contains  forty  boxes,  besides  that  appropriated  to 
the  royal  family. 

The  *0'urden,  with  its  lofty  pruned  hedges,  contains  beautiful 
fountains  and  cascades,  adorned  with  statues.  The  grand  terrace 
above  the  cascade  affords  beautiful  points  of  view.  The  Casino 
Reale  di  S.  Leuci,  in  the  park,  about  2  M.  to  the  N.,  commands 
a  still  finer  prospect. 

Caserta  is  the  junction  of  the  Naples  and  Foggia  railway 
(R.  14),  which  runs  above  our  line  as  far  as  the  next  station  — 

140  M.  Muddaloni ;  the  town  (  18,800  inhab.),  situated  to  the 
left,  with  an  extensive  deserted  palace  of  the  Caraffa  family,  is 
commanded  by  a  ruined  castle.  On  the  Foggia  line,  2'/2  M. 
distant,  are  situated  the  Ponti  della  Valle,  a  celebrated  aqueduct 
constructed  by  Vanvitelli  to  supply  the  gardens  of  Caserta  with 
water,   and  usually  visited  from  Maddaloni. 

150  M.  Cancello,  whence  a  branch  line  diverges  to  Nola  and 
Laura  (it.  12). 

From  Cancello  to  Benevento  2f)  31.  Since  the  opening  of  the  rail- 
way (K.  14)  the  high  road  has  been  used  for  the  local  traffic  only.  It  leads 
by  .S'.  Frliri'  and  Ai'iriizo,  and  then  passes  through  a  narrow  defile,  con- 
sidered by  many  to  he  identical  with  the  Fitmda'  Cititdiinr  which  proved 
so  disastrous  to  the  fortunes  of  Rome,  whence  it  ascends  to  the  village  of 
Afjtaia  (the  ancient  Caitdiiaa  according  to  some).  It  next  passes  the 
small  town  of  Monh'tarrhio,  with  its  castle,  once  the  residence  of  the 
d'Avalos  family,  and  recently  used  as  a  state  prison,  in  which,  among  others, 
thtt  well-known  Poerio  (d.  18G7)  was  confined. 

To  the  left  we  observe  Monte  Somma,  which  conceals  the  cone 
of  Vesuvius.  154'/;)  M.  Acerru  (13,600  inhab.)  was  the  ancient 
Acerrae,  to  which  the  Roman  citizenship  was  accorded  as  early 
as  K.  C.  332.  The  train  crosses  the  trenches  of  the  Regi  Lagni, 
which  drain  the  marshes  of  Pantano  dell'  Arena,  the  ancient 
Cltmius,  now  I'Auno,  and  form  the  boundary  between  the  pro- 
vinces of  Terra  di  Lavoro  and  Naples.  1(12  M.  f'asalnuovo.  Vesu- 
vius  becomes  visible  on   the  left. 

1113  M.  Naples.     Arrival,   see  p.   21. 


11 


2.    From  Home  to  Naples 
by  the  Pontine  Marshes,  Terracina,  Gaeta,  and  Capua. 

This  road,  until  recently  the  principal  route  between  Central  and 
Southern  Italy,  is  the  most  ancient  in  the  peninsula.  During  the  Samnitu 
war,  B.C.  312,  the  Via  Appia  from  Rome  to  Capua  (p.  1}  was  constructed 
by  the  censor  Appius  Claudius,  and  with  it  the  present  road  is  nearly  iden- 
tical. It  skirts  the  W.  side  of  the  Alban  mountains,  passes  Albano, 
Genzano,  and  Velletri,  intersects  the  plain  on  the  coast,  of  which  the 
Pontine  Marshes  form  a  portion,  and  reaches  Terracina,  formerly  the 
frontier-town  of  the  States  of  the  Church.  It  then  turns  inland  and  traverses 
the  mountain  chain  of  Itri ,  which  bounds  the  I!ay  of  Gaeta  on  the  X.  W. 
It  reaches  the  bay  near  Formia,  skirts  it  for  a  short  distance,  and  then 
again  proceeds  towards  the  interior  by  S.  Agata ,  uniting  at  the  Spa- 
ranisi  station  (p.  7)  with  the  preceding  route,  4  M.  above  Capua. 

Since  the  opening  of  the  railway  this  road  has  been  used  for  the 
local  traffic  only,  but  it  is  still  strongly  recommended  to  the  notice  of  the 
traveller  as  it  traverses  a  singularly  attractive  district,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  routes  in  Italy.  The  drive  by  carriage  from  Rome  to  Naples 
is  also  preferable  to  the  railway  journey  in  this  respect,  that  the  transition 
from  the  one  city  to  the  other  is  thus  rendered  less  abrupt.  This  region 
was  a  favourite  haunt  of  brigands  in  1860-70,  but  since  the  annexation 
of  the  States  of  the  Church  to  Italy  their  bands  have  been  dispersed.  The 
journey  may  also  be  accomplished  by  diligence  as  far  as  Velletri  (office 
near  the  Teatro  Argentina),  but  this  requires  an  additional  day,  which 
might  probably  be  better  employed.  The  malaria  which  prevails  in  the 
marshy  districts  in  summer  is  considered  especially  noxious  during  sleep. 
The  diligence  conductors  regard  tobacco  smoke  as  the  most  effectual  anti- 
dote to  the  poison  of  the  atmosphere.  No  risk  need  be  apprehended 
during  the  colder  seasons.  There  are  fairly  good  hotels  at  Terracina  and 
Formia. 

To  Velletri  (p.  1 )  railway.  Diligence  thence  by  Terracina  and 
Formia  to  Sparanisi ,  a  station  on  the  Rome  and  Naples  railway ,  see 
p.  7.  Departure  from  Velletri  daily  at  8  a.  m. ,  arrival  at  Terrarina  at 
6  p.  m. ;  fare  7  fr.  (In  the  reverse  direction  dep.  from  Terracina  at 
7.  30  a.  m.,  arr.  at  Velletri  at  3.  30  p.  in.)  The  diligence  continues  its 
journey  from  Terracina  at  1.  30  a.  m.  and  arrives  at  Sparanisi  at 
11.  30  a.  m.  ,  where  it  meets  the  Naples  train;  fare  9  fr.  25  c.  (from 
Terracina  to  Formia  5'|2,  from  Formia  to  Sparanisi  33|4  fr.).  (In  the 
reverse  direction,  dep.  from  Sparanisi  at  7  a.  m. ;  arr.  at  Formia  at 
1  p.  in.,  at  Fondi  at  5  p.  m. ,  at  Terracina  at  7.  30  p.  m.)  Kach  driver 
expects  a  fee  of  10  c.  —  Railway  from  Sparanisi  to  Naples  0  fr.  45, 
4  fr.  45,  3  fr.  10  c. 

The  whole  journev  occupies  3-4  days  :  —  1st.  To  Terracina  (visit  Theo- 
doric's  palace)  ;  2nd.  'To  Formia  (excursion  to  Gaeta) ;  3rd.  To  Naples.  For 
the  journey  from  Terracina  to  Formia  a  carriage  had  better  be  hired,  as 
the  diligence  starts  at  a  very  inconvenient  hour. 

To  Velletri,  26  M.,  see  p.  1.  The  railway  here  turns  to  the 
left  towards  the  mountains,  while  the  high  road  descends  to  the 
plain  to  the  right.  About  V/2  M-  from  dsterna  the  road  again 
unites  with  the  ancient  Yin  Appia.  The  extensive  oak  forests 
here  were  once  a  notorious  haunt  of  banditti.  On  the  height  to 
the  left  we  observe  the  villages  of  Cori  and  .\orma  (see  Baedekers 
Central  Italy). 

Further  on,  below  Norma,  stands  Sermoneta  on  an  emin- 
ence, with  an  ancient  castle  of  the  Gaetani  family,  who  thence 
derive  their  ducal  title.     Towards  the  sea.   to  the  right,   vises  the 


12      Route -2.  PONTINE  MARSHES.  From  Rome 

isolated  Monte  Circello  (p.  13).  Cisterna  (La  Porta),  7i/2  M. 
from  Velletri ,  a  small  town  with  a  castle  of  the  Gaetani, 
situated  on  the  last  hill  before  the  Pontine  marshes  are  reached, 
was  railed  Cisterna  IVeronis  in  the  middle  ages,  and  is  believed 
to  occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient   Tres  Tabernae. 

117  M.  (from  Velletri)  Torre  tre  Ponti,  a  solitary  post-house, 
where  the  diligence  halts  for  an  hour  and  changes  horses,  is  a 
miserable  tavern.  Terracina  is  22'/2  M.  distant.  (Sermoneta, 
5  M.  distant  from  Torre  tre  Ponti,  may  be  visited  thence;  see 
above.)  About  V2  M.  farther  the  road  crosses  the  Ninfa  by  an 
ancient  bridge,   restored,   as  the  inscription  records,   by  Trajan. 

AVe  now  reach  the  Pontine  Marshes  (Paludi  Pontine),  which 
vary  in  breadth  between  the  mountains  and  the  sea  from  6  to 
11  M.,  and  from  Nettuno  to  Terracina  are  31  M.  in  length.  A 
very  small  part  of  them  only  is  cultivated.  They,  however,  afford 
extensive  pastures ,  the  most  marshy  parts  being  the  favourite 
resort  of  the  cattle.  Towards  the  sea  the  district  is  clothed 
with  forest  (macchia).  The  malaria  in  summer  is  a  dreadful 
scourge. 

According  to  Pliny  (Hist.  Nat.  iii.  5) ,  these  marshes  were 
anciently  a  fertile  and  well-cultivated  plain,  occupied  by  twenty- 
four  villages,  but  towards  the  close  of  the  republic  gradually  fell 
into  their  present  condition  owing  to  the  decline  of  agriculture. 
A  want  of  fall  in  the  surface  of  the  soil  is  the  cause  of  the  evil. 
The  streams  and  canals  are  totally  inadequate  to  carry  off  the 
excess  of  water  which  descends  from  the  mountains  during  the 
rainy  season,  and  its  escape  is  further  impeded  by  the  luxuriant 
vegetation  of  the  aquatic  plants.  Attempts  to  drain  the  marshes 
have  been  successively  made  by  the  censor  Appius  Claudius  in 
B.C.  312  (so  says  tradition),  by  the  consul  Cornelius  Cethegus 
130  years  later,  by  Ca-sar,  Augustus,  Nerva,  Trajan,  and  finally 
by  Theodoric,  king  of  the  Goths,  all  of  which  were  of  temporary 
benefit  only.  Similar  operations  were  undertaken  by  the  popes 
Boniface  VIII.  ,  Martin  V. ,  Sixtus  V.  ,  and  Pius  VI.  To  the 
last  is  due  the  present  admirably  constructed  road  across  the 
marshes,  the  cost  of  which  amounted  to  1,622,000  scudi  (350,100?. 
sterling). 

For  some  distance  the  road  follows  the  track  of  the  ancient  Via 
Appia  in  a  straight  direction ,  skirting  the  Canal  delle  Botte, 
which  was  constructed  before  the  time  of  Augustus,  and  on  which 
Horace  performed  part  of  his  journey  to  Brundisium  (Sat.  i.   5). 

About  4  M.  from  Torre  tre  Ponti  is  Foro  Appio ,  the 
ancient  Forum  Appii,  described  by  Horace  as  'differtum  nautis 
c.iuponibus  atque  malignis'.  Here,  and  at  Tres  Taberna:  the 
Apostle  Paul  met  his  friends  from  Rome  (Acts,   xxviii). 

The  road  pursues  a  perfectly  straight  direction,  shaded  by  a 
double  nr  quadruple  avenue  of  stately  elms.    But  for  the  moun- 


to  Naples.  PIPERNO.  2.  Route.      1 3 

tains  to  the  left,   where  Sezza  has  for  some  time  been  visible,   the 
traveller  might  imagine  himself  transported  to  a  scene  in  Holland. 

A  conveyance  in  correspondence  with  the  diligence  from  Velletri  runs 
from  Foro  Appio  to  Sezza,  the  ancient  Volscian  ,SWi'« ,  which  yielded  a 
favourite  wine.  It  is  situated  ahove  the  marshes  on  a  hill  which  the  old 
road  to  Naples  skirted.  The  fragments  of  the  old  walls  and  (if  a  so-called 
Temple  of  Saturn  are  still  to  be  seen.  —  Instead  of  ascending  the  hill  of 
Sezza,   we  may  follow  the  road  skirting  its  base  to  — 

Piperno  (6  M.),  the  ancient  Privernvm  of  the  Volsci,  which  long  with- 
stood the  attacks  of  the  Romans,  and  afterwards  a  Roman  cob  my,  the  traces 
of  which  are  seen  »/i  M.  to  the  N.  in  the  plain,  on  the  way  to  Frosinone. 
This  plain  is  enclosed  hy  lofty  mountains,  studded  with  ruined  castles 
and  villages :  Rocca  Gorga,  Maenza,  Rocca  Secca,  Prossedi,  etc.  About  3  M. 
farther,  in  the  valley  of  the  Amaseno,  is  situated  the  Cistercian  monastery 
of  Fossa  Nuova,  where  Thomas  Aquinas  died  in  1274  while  on  his  way  to 
the  Council  of  Lyons.  Sonnino,  4i|2  M.  distant,  and  San  Lorenzo,  in '  the 
valley  of  the  Amaseno ,  about  9  M.  distant ,  are  both  famous  for  the 
picturesqueness  of  the  costume  of  the  women ,  and  notorious  for  the 
audacity  of  the  beggars. 

The  road  pursues  a  straight  direction  on  a  raised  embank- 
ment, and  leads  to  Bocca  di  Fiume  and  Mesa.  At  the  entrance 
of  the  post-house  at  Mesa  are  two  ancient  mile-stones  of  Trajan. 
In  the  vicinity  are  the  ruins  of  a  tomb  on  a  square  basement 
of  massive  blocks  of  limestone,  obtained  from  the  neighbouring 
Volscian  mountains. 

Ponte  Maggiore  is  the  next  post-station.  Beyond  it  the  road 
crosses  the  Amaseno,  into  which  the  Ufente  empties  itself  a  little 
higher  up. 

We  soon  reach  the  locality  which  Horace  mentions  as  the  site 
of  the  grove  and  fountain  of  Feronia  (Sat.  i.  5,  23),  but  no 
traces  of  either  are  now  visible.  (They  were  perhaps  near  S.  Mar- 
tino.)  The  new  road  now  quits  the  Via  Appia  and  approaches 
the  mountains  to  the  left,  where  palms  and  pomegranates,  inter- 
spersed with  orange  groves  and  aloes,  apprise  the  traveller  of 
his  entrance  into  Southern  Italy. 

To  the  right,  towards  the  sea,  the  Promontorio  Circeo,  or  Cir cello  (1771  ft.), 
which  was  visible  even  before  Velletri  was  reached,  now  becomes  more  con- 
spicuous. This  was  the  Circeii  of  the  ancients,  the  traditional  site  of  the  palace 
and  grove  of  the  enchantress  Circe,  daughter  of  the  sun,  described  by  Homer. 
It  is  an  isolated  limestone  rock,  and  may  be  reached  in  3  hrs.  from  Terracina 
by  a  good  path  along  the  shore.  On  the  summit,  near  S.  Felice  towards  the  S. 
and  Torre  di  Paola  towards  the  W.,  some  fragments  are  perceived  of  the 
ancient  town  of  Circeii,  captured  by  Coriolanus,  and  still  existing  in  Cicero's 
time.  Cicero  and  Atticus,  Tiberius  and  Domitian  frequently  resorted  to 
this  spot,  attracted  doubtless  by  the  beauty  of  the  situation  and  the  excel- 
lence of  the  oysters.  The  Grotta  delta  Maga,  a  stalactite  cavern,  deserves  a 
visit.  In  spring  and  autumn  the  rocks  are  frequented  by  innumerable  birds 
of  passage. 

Terracina  (Orand  Hotel  Royal,  at  the  S.  entrance  to  the  town, 
with  a  view  of  the  sea  at  the  back ;  Locanda  Nuziowrte,  in  the 
Piazza,  less  expensive),  situated  conspicuously  on  a  rocky  emin- 
ence (Hor.  Sat.  i.  5,  26),  the  Anrur  of  the  ancient  Volsci, 
and  the  Tarracina  of  the  Komans,  was  formerly  on  the  confines 
of  the  papal  dominions  ,   and  still  constitutes  the  natural  frontier 


14       Route?.  i  ERRal  IiSa.  from  Rome 

town  between  Central  and  Southern  Italy.  It  is  an  ancient 
episcopal  residence,  and  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in 
Italy.  The  high  road  intersects  the  extensive  but  thinly  peopled 
quarter  of  the  town  which  was  founded  by  Pius  VI. ,  while  the 
old  town  is  built  on  the  slope  of  the  hill.  Above  the  latter 
extend  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city,  crowned  by  the  remains  of 
the  palace  of  Theodoric  the  Ostrogoth. 

The  *C'uttedrale  S.  Pietro  is  believed  to  occupy  the  site  of 
a  temple  of  Jupiter  Anxurus.  The  vestibule  rests  on  ten  ancient 
columns,  with  recumbent  lions  at  their  bases.  On  the  right  is 
a  large  antique  sarcophagus,  which,  according  to  the  inscription, 
was  used  in  torturing    the   early  Christians. 

Interior.  The  beautiful  fluted  columns  of  the  Canopy  in  the  in- 
terior belonged  to  the  ancient  temple.  The  Pulpit,  with  its  ancient 
mosaics,  rests  on  columns  with  lions  at  their  bases.  The  Clock  Tower 
(ascended  by  91  steps)  commands  an  extensive  prospect. 

The  summit  of  the  promontory  may  be  attained  directly  from 
the  new  town  in  3/4  hr.,  but  more  conveniently  from  the  old 
town,  the  route  being  partly  by  an  ancient  road  passing  remains 
of  tombs  and  ancient  walls,  and  then  leading  to  the  right  through 
olive  plantations.  The  whole  excursion  requires  about  3  hrs.; 
guide  unnecessary.  The  *Palace  of  Theodoric ,  afterwards  con- 
verted into  a  castle,  occupies  the  summit.  A  corridor  of  twelve 
arches  opens  towards  the  sea  on  the  S.  side.  The  purposes 
of  the  different  parts  of  the  structure  cannot  now  be  ascertained. 
*View  admirable. 

The  various  points  of  view  are  worthy  of  notice.  Towards  the  W. 
the  prospect  embraces  the  plain  as  far  as  the  Alban  Mts.,  then  the  Monte 
Circello ;  towards  the  S.  are  the  Pontine  or  Ponza  Islands,  the  N.  W. 
group  of  which  comprises  Ponza  (Pontiee,  once  a  Roman  colony),  Palma- 
rola  (Palmaria),  and  Zannone ,  all  of  volcanic  origin,  and  the  S.  group 
Veiitotene  and  <S.  Stefano;  between  the  groups  lies  the  small  island  of 
La  Botia.  The  islands  are  still  used,  as  in  ancient  times,  as  a  place  of 
detention  for  convicts.  Ventotene  is  the  Pandateria  of  melancholy  cele- 
brity, to  which  Augustus  banished  his  abandoned  daughter  Julia,  and 
Tiberius  relegated  Agrippina ,  the  daughter  of  Julia ,  and  where  Nero  is 
said  to  have  caused  his  divorced  wife  Octavia  to  be  put  to  death.  To- 
wards the  K.  the  plain  of  Fondi  is  visible;  the  village  on  the  sea  is 
Sperionga  (p.  16);  farther  off  is  the  promontory  of  Gaeta  with  the  Torre 
d'Orlando  (p.  18),  and  finally  the  island  of  Ischia. 

The  Harbour  of  Terracina,  still  recognisable  by  the  break- 
water, was  of  great  importance  during  the  Roman  period,  but 
is  now  entirely  filled  with  sand.  A  new  Molo  affords  indif- 
ferent shelter  to  coasting  vessels.  The  galley-slaves  at  the  bagno 
here  are  partly  employed  in  the  harbour  works,  and  partly  in 
the  quarries. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  town  rises  a  picturesque  mass  of  rock 
on  the  roadside,   on  which  a  hermit  formerly  dwelt. 

Beyond  Terracina  the  road  follows  the  direction  of  the  Via 
Appia,  and  is  flanked  by  remains  of  ancient  tombs.  The  moun- 
tains   which    we    skirt  approach    so  near    the    sea    as  occasionally 


to  Naples.  FONDI.  'J.  Route.       15 

to  leave  barely  space  for  the  road.  This  pass  was  the  ancient 
Lautulae.  Here,  in  B.  C.  315,  the  Romans  fought  a  battle  with 
the  Samnites,  and  in  the  2nd  Punic  War  Fabius  Maximus  kept 
Hannibal  in  check  here.  On  a  hill  about  V2  M.  to  the  left  is 
situated  the  monastery  of  Retiro,  on  the  site  of  the  villa  in 
which  the  emperor  Galba  was  born.  Then  to  the  right  is  the 
Lake  of  Fondi,  the  Lacus  Fundanus  or  Amyclanus  of  the  an- 
cients ,  named  after  the  town  of  Amyclae  which  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  here  by  fugitive  Laconians.  The  village  towards 
the  E.   on  the  slope  facing  the  sea  is  Sperlonga  (p.  16). 

The  papal  frontier  was  formerly  at  Torre  deW  Epitafia.  We 
next  reach  the  gateway  of  the  tower  de'  Confini,  or  La  Portella, 
4  M.  from  Terracina.  On  a  height  to  the  left  is  the  village  of 
Monticelli;  by  the  road-side  are  fragments  of  tombs.  We  now 
enter  the  extremely  fertile  Terra  di  Lavoro  (p.  7).  The  next 
place  (11  M.  from  Terracina)  is  Fondi  (5000  inhab.),  the  ancient 
Fundi,  where  Horace  derides  the  pride  of  a  civic  official  'with 
broad  purple  border  and  censer'  (Hor.  Sat.  i.  5,  34).  Change 
of  horses ,  and  halt  of  l/t  hr.  (poor  inn).  The  Chateau ,  part 
of  which  adjoins  the  inn,  is  miserably  dilapidated.  Some  of  the 
window-frames  and  decorations  in  the  most  tasteful  Renaissance 
style  testify  to  its  ancient  splendour.  In  the  16th  cent,  it  belong- 
ed to  the  Colonnas  ,  and  in  1534  it  was  occupied  by  the  beau- 
tiful Countess  Giulia  Gonzaga.  One  night  the  countess  narrowly 
escaped  being  captured  by  the  daring  pirate  Haireddin  Barbarossa, 
who  purposed  conveying  her  to  the  Sultan  Soliman  II.  Exasperated 
by  his  failure  ,  he  wreaked  his  revenge  on  the  town ,  as  an  in- 
scription in  the  church  records.  The  town  was  again  destroyed 
by  the  Turks  in  1594.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  church  of  S.  Maria 
in  the  Gothic  style,  disfigured  in  the  interior  by  whitewash. 
It  contains  an  ancient  pulpit  adorned  with  mosaic,  and  on  the 
right  a  Madonna  by  Silvestro  de'  Buoni.  A  chapel  is  shown  in 
the  Dominican  monastery  in  which  Thomas  Aquinas  once  taught. 
Considerable  remains  of  the  ancient  town-walls  are  preserved. 
The  principal  street  coincides  with  the  ancient  Via  Appia.  In 
other  respects  the  town  is  a  sombre  looking  place,  and  like  Itri 
(see  below)  was  for  centuries  a  haunt  of  brigands. 

Beyond  Fondi  the  road  traverses  the  plain  for  3  M.,  after 
which  it  ascends  Monte  S.  Andrea  through  mountain  ravines, 
where  additional  horses  are  necessary.  It  then  descends  to  the 
poor  town  of  Itri,  with  a  ruined  castle,  once  notorious  for  the 
robberies  committed  there.  It  was  here  that  the  robber-chief 
Marco  Sciarra  promised  a  safe  conduct  and  protection  to  the  poet 
Tasso  ;  and  Fra  Diavolo  (whose  real  name  was  Michele  Pezza)  was 
also  a  native  of  Itri.  He  was  at  last  captured  by  the  French 
near  Salerno  and  executed.  Anecdotes  are  still  related  of  this 
daring    brigand,     and    Washington    Irving's    sketch    'The    Inn    of 


16      Route  2.  FORMIA.  From  Rome 

Terracina ',   the  foundation  of  Auber's  opera,    has  greatly  contri- 
buted to  maintain  their  interest. 

A  mountainous  path  leads  from  Itri ,  to  the  right,  in  2^4  hrs.  to  the 
fishing  village  of  Sjieiionga,  situated  on  a  sandy  promontory,  and  deriving 
its  name  from  the  grottoes  (speltaicae)  in  the  neighbouring  rocks.  In  one 
of  these,  as  Tacitus  informs  us  (Ann.  iv.  59),  Sejanus  saved  the  life  of  Ti- 
berius, which  was  imperilled  by  a  falling  rock.  On  the  way  to  the  grotto 
we  observe  Roman  ruins,  and  the  grotto  itself  contains  benches  and  stucco 
ornaments.  The  excursion  may  best  be  made  by  boat  from  Gaeta ,  from 
which  Sperlonga  is  about  9i|-2  31.  distant. 

From  Itri  the  road  descends  for  some  distance  on  galleries, 
and  finally  between  woods  and  vineyards  towards  the  coast,  re- 
vealing an  exquisite  view  of  the  bay  of  Gaeta,  with  its  glittering 
villas  and  other  edifices;  in  the  distance  are  Ischia  and  Procida; 
still  further  off  rise  the  Monte  S.  Angelo  (p.  145)  and  Vesuvius. 

Farther  on,  we  perceive  to  the  right,  in  the  middle  of  a 
vineyard,  on  a  square  base,  a  massive  round  tower,  believed 
to  be  Cicero's  Tomb.  It  was  in  this  neighbourhood,  not  far 
from  his  Formianum,  that  the  proscribed  orator,  who  sought 
to  elude  the  pursuit  of  the  triumvirs  Octavian,  Antony,  and 
Lepidus,  was  murdered  by  the  tribunes  Herennius  and  Popilius 
Laenas  ,  7th  Dec,  B.C.  43,  in  the  64th  year  of  his  age.  On  a 
height  above  the  road  may  be  traced  the  foundations  of  a  temple 
of  Apollo,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Cicero.  Numerous  re- 
lics of  ancient  buildings  are  still  extant  on  the  whole  bay,  which, 
like  the  bay  of  Naples,  was  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Roman  nobles, 
and  was  covered  with  the  most  sumptuous  villas.  Tradition  has 
assigned  several  of  these  to  Cicero,  but  without  the  slightest 
historical  foundation.     The    road    now  descends  to  Formia. 

Formia  (*H6tel  de  V Europe,  on  the  coast,  R.  l'/2  fr-j  Pre" 
ferable  to  the  inns  at  Gaeta) ,  the  ancient  Formiae ,  a  town 
with  9100  inhab.  ,  was  called  Mold  di  Gaeta  under  the  former 
regime.  The  beauty  of  its  situation  constitutes  its  sole  attraction. 
The  mountain-range  on  the  N.  side  of  the  bay  rises  abruptly  from 
the  sea,  the  lower  slopes  being  clothed  with  gardens  of  lemons, 
oranges,  and  pomegranates,  and  with  vineyards  and  olive-plan- 
tations. One  of  the  most  delightful  points  is  the  so-called  Villa 
of  Cicero,  or  Villa  Caposele,  above  the  town,  formerly  a  favourite 
residence  of  the  kings  of  Naples.  It  now  belongs  to  Sign.  Gaetano 
Rnbino  (permission  to  visit  it  obtained  by  leaving  a  card  at  his  palazzo 
opposite  the  prefecture;   boy  to  act  as  guide   1/2  f'-)- 

At  the  entrance  are  ancient  inscriptions  and  statues.  The  Lower 
Part  of  the  garden  contains  considerable  remains  of  an  ancient  villa, 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  Cicero.  Among  the  vaulted  halls  is  one 
with  eight  columns  and  a  semicircular  apse,  now  converted  into  offices. 
During  the  siege  of  Gaeta,  General  Cialdini  established  his  headquarters 
here.  The  Upper  Terrace  commands  an  uninterrupted  survey  of  the 
charming  bay,  Gaeta,  Ischia,  the  promontories  of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  and 
the  mountain  range  to  the  S.  of  the  Liris,  which  separates  the  latter 
from  the  region  of  the  Volturno. 


to  Naples.  GAETA.  2.  Route.      17 

Excursion  to  Gaeta,  4-5  lirs.  there  and  back. 

Formia  carries  on  a  brisk  traffic  with  Gaeta,  43|4  31.  distant.  Seat 
in  public  conveyance  'f-2  fr. ;  one-horse  carr.  there  and  back,  according 
to  tariff,  2  fr.,  or  with  a  stay  of  some  hours  3  fr.,  a  drive  of  3|i  hr. ;  by 
boat  somewhat  longer,  3-4  fr. 

The  road  ascends  through  Formia,  and  beyond  it  descends 
to  the  coast,  which  it  then  skirts.  Numerous  remains  of  villas, 
which  the  Romans  were  in  the  habit  of  building  out  into  the  sea 
as  far  as  possible,  are  passed.  Among  them  a  spot  is  pointed 
out  as  the  scene  of  the  assassination  of  Cicero  (see  above).  Country 
attractive.  Outside  the  town  extends  a  long  row  of  houses,  called 
the  Borgo.  The  road  next  passes  the  fortifications,  which  still 
bear  traces  of  the  bombardment  of  1860.  A  whole  street,  de- 
stroyed by  the  explosion  of  a  powder-magazine,   is  still  in  ruins. 

Gaeta  (Albergo  Italia;  Gaeta;  Caffe  Nazionale),  the  ancient 
Portus  Caieta,  with  18,400  inhab.,  is  an  important  fortress,  but 
insignificant  as  a  commercial  town.  The  promontory  of  Gaeta 
resembles  the  cape  of  Misenum  in  formation,  presenting  from  a 
distance  the  appearance  of  a  gigantic  tumulus.  Tradition  has 
therefore  pointed  it  out  as  the  tomb  of  Caieta,  the  nurse  of 
jEneas,  and  Munatius  Plancus  accordingly  erected  a  conspicuous 
and  imposing  monument  on  its  summit.  From  this  eminence 
projects  a  lower  rock  which  bears  the  citadel  and  the  town. 

The  strength  of  the  place  was  first  put  to  the  test  during  the  bar- 
barian immigrations.  Gaeta  successfully  resisted  the  attacks  of  the  Teutonic 
invaders,  and  with  Amalfi  and  Naples  constituted  one  of  the  last  strong- 
holds of  ancient  culture.  It  afterwards  became  a  free  city,  presided  over 
by  a  doge,  and  carried  on  a  considerable  trade  with  the  Levant.  It  bade 
defiance  to  the  assaults  of  the  Lombards  and  Saracens,  and  preserved  its 
freedom  down  to  the  12th  cent.,  when  with  the  rest  of  Southern  Italy  it 
was  compelled  to  succumb  to  the  Normans.  The  fortress  was  extended  and 
strengthened  at  various  periods  by  the  Arragonese,  by  Charles  V.,  and 
especially  by  the  last  Bourbon  monarchs.  In  1501  it  surrendered  to  the 
French,  in  1504  to  the  Spaniards  under  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova,  in  1734  to 
the  Spaniards  again,  and  in  1798  to  the  French.  In  1806  it  was  gallantly 
defended  by  the  Prince  of  Hessen-Philippsthal,  who,  aided  by  the  Eng- 
lish fleet,  held  out  for  nearly  six  months  against  a  powerful  French  army 
under  Massena.  In  Nov.  1860,  Francis  II.  of  Naples,  the  last  of  the  Bour- 
bon kings,  sought  refuge  here,  and  his  queen  JIary,  Duchess  of  Bavaria, 
took  a  prominent  part  in  the  defence  of  the  fortress,  but  the  town  was  at 
length  compelled  to  capitulate  by  the  Italian  fleet  on  23rd  Feb.  1861.  The 
king  was  conveyed  to  Rome  by  "a  French  man-of-war.  Pope  Pius  IX.  when 
banished  in  Nov.  1848,  also  sought  an  asylum  here,  and  remained  at  Gaeta 
until  his  return  to  Rome  in  April,  1850. 

The  Cattedrale  di  S.  Erasmo  has  a  remarkable  campanile ;  at 
the  entrance  are  four  ancient  columns  and  relics  of  old  sculptures. 

Interior  modernised.  At  the  back  of  the  high  altar  (covered)  is  the 
banner  presented  by  Pope  Pius  V.  to -Don  John  of  Austria,  the  hero  of 
Lepanto,  representing  the  Saviour  with  SS.  Peter  and  Paul. 

Opposite  the  principal  portal  of  the  church  is  a  sculptured  Go- 
thic column  resting  on  four  lions. 

Among    the  antiquities  may  be  mentioned  the   remains  of   an 
amphitheatre  and  of  a  theatre,  and  also  a  column  bearing  the  names 
of  the  twelve  winds  in  Greek  and  Latin. 
Baedeker.     Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  2 


1  8      Route  -2.  S.  AGATA.  From  Rome 

The  chief  object  of  interest,  however,  is  the  so-called  *Torre 
d' Orlando,  or  tomb  of  Munatius  Plancus,  the  contemporary  of 
Augustus,  and  founder  of  Lyons  (B.  C.  43),  situated  on  the 
summit  of  the  promontory.  We  ascend  from  the  Piazza  to 
the  Gothic  church  of  S.  Francesco  ,  begun  by  Ferdinand  II.  in 
1849,  seriously  damaged  in  18(30,  and  since  completed ;  then 
turn  to  the  left  through  an  open  garden  gate ,  and  reach  the 
Torre  by  a  good  winding  road  in  25  rain.  The  tomb  consists 
of  a  huge  circular  structure  of  travertine  blocks,  resembling 
that  of  Ccecilia  Metella  at  Rome.  Round  the  top  runs  a  frieze 
with  warlike  emblems.  On  the  N.  side  is  the  inscription  :  L. 
Munatius  L.  f.  L.  n.  L.  pron.  Plancus  cos.  cens.  imp.  iter. 
VII  vir  epulon.  triump.  ex  Raetis,  aedem  Saturni  fecit  de  mani- 
bis,  ngros  divisit  in  Italia  Beneventi,  in  Gallia  colonias  deduxit 
Lugudunum  et  Rauricam.  A  more  magnificent  site  for  such  a 
monument  cannot  well  be  conceived.  The  **Vie'w  towards  the 
N.W.  embraces  the  coast  as  far  as  Mte.  Circeio,  to  the  W.  the  sea 
with  the  Ponza  Islands,  to  the  B.  and  8.  the  bay  of  Gaeta,  Ischia, 
Procida,  Capri,   and  the  mountains  by  Misenum. 


Leaving  Formia,  the  road  now  turns  into  the  plain  of  the 
Garigliano,  the  Liris  of  the  ancients,  which  falls  into  the  Bay 
of  Gaeta.  To  the  left,  before  reaching  the  bridge,  we  observe 
a  long  series  of  arches  of  the  ancient  aqueduct;  then  nearer 
the  road,  by  the  post-house,  remains  of  the  theatre  and  amphi- 
theatre of  the  venerable  city  of  Minturnae,  on  the  ruins  of 
which,  on  the  hill  to  the  left,  has  sprung  up  the  small  town 
of  Traetto.  In  the  plain  towards  the  Liris  are  situated  the  marshes 
where  Marius  once  sought  to  elude  the  pursuit  of  the  hirelings 
of  Sulla.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  Garigliano,  27th  Dec.  1503, 
Don  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova  fought  the  decisive  battle  with  the 
French  which  placed  Naples  in  his  power.  Pietro  de'  Medici,  who, 
having  been  banished  from  Florence,  had  followed  the  French, 
endeavoured  to  escape  to  Gaeta  in  a  boat  with  four  field-pieces. 
The  boat,  however,  sank,  and  all  its  crew  were  drowned.  Pietro 
was  buried  at  Monte  Casino  (p.  5). 

The  suspension-bridge  over  the  Garigliano  ('7'/2  M.  from 
Formia),  constructed  in  1832,  is  the  oldest  in  Italy.  Before 
it  is  reached  the  present  road  quits  the  Via  Appia,  which  is 
distinctly  traceable  on  the  right  bank  as  far  as  Mondragone,  near 
the  Sinuessa  of  Horace  (destroyed  by  the  Saracens  in  the  10th 
cent.),  where  to  his  great  joy  he  was  met  on  his  journey  (Sat. 
i.  5,  39)  by  his  friends  Plotius,  Varius,  and  Virgil.  Horace  then 
crossed  the  Savo  (Savone)  by  the  Pons  Campanus  and  proceeded 
to  Capua.  The  present  road,  however,  turns  to  the  left  towards 
the  heights  of  Sant'  Again  (change  of  horses,  halt  of  1/4  hr0> 
a  busy  post-station,   where    it    is  crossed  by  a  road  leading  from 


to  Naples.  SESSA.  2.  Route.       19 

Sessa  to  Mondragone.  The  volcanic  peaks  of  the  Campagna  Felice, 
and  among  them    the  lofty  liocca  Monfina,  now   become  visible. 

The  Rocca  Monfina,  4'|'>  M.  from  Sant'  Agata,  is  easily  visited  thence. 
On  the  way  thither,  !|2  M.  from  Sant1  Agata,  on  a  volcanic  eminence,  Hess 
Sessa,  the  ancient  Stiessa  Aunmca ,  with  interesting  rains  of  a  bridge, 
amphitheatre,  etc.  Other  relics  are  preserved  in  the  ancient  cathedral 
and  the  churches  of  S.  Benedetto  and  S.  Giovanni.  In  the  principal  street 
are  memorial  stones  with  inscriptions  in  honour  of  Charles  V.,  above 
which  is  an  old  crucifix  with  a  mosaic  cross.  From  the  hills  of  Sessa  to 
Mondragone,  towards  the  S.,  extends  Monte  Massicv,  whose  wines  Horace 
and  Virgil  have  immortalised.  In  the  vicinity,  towards  the  Volturnus, 
was  the  Ager  Falernas,  where  excellent  wine  is  still  produced. 

The  road  from  Sant'  Agata  to  Sparanisi  passes  the  village  of 
Cascano,  noted  for  the  beauty  of  its  women.  The  same  repu- 
tation might  indeed  be  fairly  extended  to  the  whole  district  around 
the  Bay  of  Gaeta.  About  4  M.  from  Cassano  a  road  to  the  left 
leads  to  Teano  (see  p.  7).  The  road  then  crosses  the  Savone,  not 
far  from  the  picturesque  castle  of  Francolisi,  and  (IY2  M.)  reaches 
the  railway-station  of  Sparanisi  (seep.  7),  whence  Naples  is  reached 
by  railway  via  Capua  in  about  2  hrs. 


3.    From   Leghorn    and   Civita    Vecchia    (Rome)  to 
Naples  (by  sea). 

The  great  advantage  of  approaching  Naples  by  sea  is  that  the  city  is 
suddenly  revealed  to  the  traveller  in  the  perfection  of  its  majesty  and 
beauty.  The  view  on  entering  the  bay  on  a  fine  day  is  one  of  almost 
unparalleled  loveliness.  Most  of  the  coasting  steamers  load  and  unload 
in  the  harbours  during  the  day,  and  proceed  on  their  way  at  night;  the 
traveller  should  therefore  take  care  to  avoid  those  that  enter  the  Bay  of 
Naples  in  the  dark. 

Steamboats.  The  communication  along  the  W.  coast  of  Italy  is  maintained 
by  the  vessels  of  the  Italian  companies  Peirano  Danovaro  e  Co.,  Ritbot- 
tino  e  Co.,  and  La  Trinacria,  and  the  French  firms  of  Vulery  Frires  el 
Fils  and  A.  et  L.  Fraissinet  el  Co.  Five  Italian  vessels,  two  only  of 
which  touch  at  Civita  Vecchia,  and  four  French  steamers  leave  Leghorn 
for  Naples  weekly.  The  direct  voyage  occupies  26-28  hrs.,  that  by  Civita 
Vecchia  about  10  hrs.  more.  The  departure  of  the  vessels  is  generally 
made  known  by  placards  at  the  hotels.  Tickets  should  always  be  pur- 
chased by  the  traveller  in  person ,  and  not  through  a  commissionaire. 
Offices  at  Leghorn  and  Civita  Vecchia  near  the  harbour;  at  Rome  the 
agent  for  the  Peirano  Co.  is  Avalis,  Ponte  S.  Angelo  15;  for  the  Valery 
Co.,  Rosati,  Via  Condotti  6;  for  Fraissinet,  Sebasti,  Piazza  Nicosia  43. 

At  Leghorn,  embarcation  with  luggage  1  fr.,  or  if  the  steamer  be  in 
the  outer  harbour  (Porto  Nuovo)  l'|2  fr.  (comp.  Baedekers    N.  Italy). 

From  Rome  to  Civita  Vecchia  three  trains  daily  in  2-3  hrs.  ;  express 
fares  12  fr.  30,  8  fr.  25  c,  ordinary  9  fr.  20,  6  fr.  45,  4  fr.  60  c.  —  One 
horse  carr.  from  the  station  to  the  quay  50,  with  luggage  75  c.  ;  omnibus 
to  the  town  25  c;  for  each  box  carried  into  the  town  40,  thence  to  the 
quay  25  c;  embarcation  50,  box  50,  travelling  bag  25  c,  according  to 
tariff.     Lower  rates  may  be  bargained  for  by  a  party  of  several  persons. 

On  emerging  from  the  harbour  of  Leghorn  the  steamer  affords 
a  beautiful  retrospect  of  the  town.  Towards  the  W.  rises  the 
island  of  Qorgona.  The  vessel  steers  towards  the  S.  and  soon 
comes  in  sight  of  the  island  of  f'tipraja,  while  the  dark  outlines  of 

2* 


20      Route  3.  CIVITA  VECCHIA. 

Corsica  are  visible  in  the  distance.  The  Italian  coast  continues 
visible  on  the  E.,  and  to  the  N.E.  rise  the  Apennines.  The 
steamer  next  proceeds  between  the  island  of  Elba,'  with  the 
Porto  Longone  and  the  islet  of  Palmajola,  and  the  Punta  di  Piom- 
bino,  a  beautiful  passage,  affording  a  fine  survey  of  the  rocky 
islands  as  well  as  of  the  coast ,  with  its  numerous  promontories 
crowned  with  lighthouses.  Farther  on  is  the  island  of  Pianosa; 
more  towards  the  8.,  Giglio,  and  the  picturesque  Monte  Argentario 
(1770  ft.)  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea.  Then  the  islet  of  Oian- 
nutri. 

The  coast  becomes  flat,  and  Civita  Vecchia,  picturesquely 
situated  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,   at  length  comes  in  sight. 

To  the  S.  of  Civita  Vecchia  the  coast  is  somewhat  monoto- 
nous, and  spacious  plains,  rarely  relieved  by  hills,  extend  as  far  as 
the  horizon.  In  clear  weather  the  dome  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome 
is  said  to  be  visible.  In  the  bay  to  the  S.  of  Capo  Linaro  lies 
S.  Severn,  and  beyond  it  Palo  with  its  palace.  At  the  mouth 
of  the  Tiber  we  observe  Fiumicino  and  Ostia ;  farther  on  is  Porto 
d'Anzio;  in  the  background  rise  the  Alban  and  Volscian  moun- 
tains. The  dreary  aspect  of  the  Pontine  marshes  is  relieved  by  the 
conspicuous  Monte  Circello  or  Circeo.  To  the  S.W.  are  the  Ponza 
islands,  Ponza  and  Zannone. 

The  steamer  now  stands  out  to  sea,  leaving  the  coast  with 
the  bays  of  Terracina  and  Gaeta  to  the  E.  The  lirst  land  which 
again  becomes  visible  is  the  island  of  Ischia  to  the  8.,  to  the  left 
of  which  we  afterwards  see  the  island  of  Procida.  The  vessel  steers 
into  the  Strait  of  Procida,  which  lies  between  the  island  and  the 
Capo  Miseno.  As  soon  as  we  have  rounded  the  latter,  the  Bay  of 
Naples  in  all  its  beauty  bursts  on  our  view,  but  the  city  remains 
concealed  for  some  time  longer. 

"The  strait  which  lies  between  the  low  island  of  Procida  on  the 
right  and  the  Capo  Miseno  on  the  left,  is  the  channel  by  which 
the  bay  of  Naples  is  entered  in  this  direction,  —  the  portal  to 
what  has  been  called  a  'fragment  of  heaven  to  earth  vouchsafed'. 
Capo  Miseno  is  a  rocky  eminence,  connected  with  the  mainland 
by  a  long  narrow  isthmus ;  a  grey,  deserted  tower  of  weird  aspect 
crowns  the  summit.  The  white  houses  of  Procida,  with  their 
flat  roofs  glittering  in  the  sunshine,  remind  one  of  a  troop  of 
pilgrims  toiling  up  the  ascent." 

The  eminent  author  of  the  work  from  which  the  above  extract 
is  taken  strongly  recommends  travellers  to  approach  Naples  by 
sea.  The  impression  ,  as  he  justly  observes,  which  is  produced 
by  a  rapid  transition  by  land  from  majestic  I'.ome  to  squalid  Naples 
is  inevitably  disappointing,  whilst  the  traveller  arriving  from  the 
sea  is  at  once  introduced  to  all  the  fascinating  charms  of  the  beau- 
tiful bay. 

Naples,  see  below. 


1 7 .  Palazzo  deUa,  Forcsteria-  (Prefethira,)—  E .  6 . 

18.  Jfaddaloni  E.4t. 

19  .,■_..         Miiwvda  D .  6 . 

20.  •         deUfanieipio       E.5. 

21.  Jtealc  E.6. 

22.    S^JryAo  r.4. 

2%.  Pasta, E.4. 

Z'i.Sanita, F.  5. 

25 .  Teatro  S.  Caelino  E  .  5 . 

26.  S.CaAo  E.6. 

27 .  Fenice  E .  5 . 

28.  de  'Fioreniinx.  E .  5 . 

29 delFo,ulo  •_  E.5. 

30.  nuovo  E.5. 

F.G.3. 
F.4. 


52  .  S.Giacomo  deyti  SpaarutoH  _  -   E .  5  . 

a3 .  S. Giorgio  jifaqaiore        F  .  4 . 

•n.tS. Giovanni  a  Gtrbonara  E.3. 


T  3.4. 

E.6. 

59. S.Maria,del  Carmine  G.4 . 

60.  S.  Maria  de 'Cqftantiruipoli        E  .  3  . 

61 .  S'JIar'icL  la  munra,  E .  5 . 

bZ.SMartino  D.5. 

6Z. &HaMeo    .  E.5. 

Q^.SMieheU  EA. 

65  jtfonie (edvario  _         D.5  . 


Scala  n_el    l:  16.0  0  0 

aoo *oo aoo 


66 .  Monte  OUveto  

67.  S. Paolo  Jfcujaiore 
.  FieOvL  Santa, . 


69.  SPietro  a.  Majella^- 

70.  •SPietrojtlai'tire. 

71 .  S.Rastiluta,  .. 

72  .  S.  Seoastixmo  

73 .  S.  S.Severino  e  Sosio 

74 .  S.  Severn,  CappeUa.  di 

1  b .  S'pirito  Santo 

76 .  S.Teresa, 


E.4. 
F.3. 
E.4. 
E.4. 
F.4. 
F.3. 
E.4. 
E.4. 
E.4. 
E.4. 
E.3 


77 . Comando  generate,  mUztare  E . 6 . 
78 .  Cohmnxv  dei  Martirv D  .6 . 


loo too •« looo 


1  Ciilometro 


&eogra.pli- .  .Azistalt,  -toil 


"Warner    &.  Debes,  Lei-pzi 


21 


4.    Naples. 


Arrival,  (a)  By  Railway.  The  station  (filminne  Cenlrale)  is  situated 
at  the  E.  end  of  the  town  (PI.  G,  3).  The  arrangements  are  far  from  satis- 
factory ,  and  travellers  are  generally  kept  waiting  a  long  time  for  their 
luggage.  The  formalities  of  the  municipal  douane  are  soon  terminated, 
the  declaration  of  the  traveller  that  his  luggage  contains  no  comestibles 
liable  to  duty  being  generally  accepted.  Hotel  Omnibuses  l'|a  fr. ;  public 
omnibus  20  c,  each  box  20  c.  (not  recommended  to  persons  arriving  for 
the  first  time).  Cabs:  with  two  horses  (nearest  the  entrance)  1  fr.  40c., 
each  trunk  20  c.  ;  with  one  horse  (outside  the  railings,  farther  distant; 
seats  for  two  person's  only)  70  c.,  each  trunk  20  c. ;  no  charge  is  made 
for  smaller  articles  of  luggage.  The  Facchini  who  take  the  luggage  to  the 
cab  are  paid,  according  to  tariff:  10  c.  for  a  travelling-bag  or  a  hat-box, 
20  c.  for  heavier  articles,  40  c.  for  boxes  weighing  2-0-400  lbs.;  but  a  few 
soldi  more  are  usually  given. 

A  trick  frequently  practised  here,  and  which  of  course  in  the  sequel 
affects  the  traveller's  pocket,  deserves  exposure.  One  of  the  commissio- 
naires who  haunt  the  station,  and  who  are  often  well-dressed,  mounts  on 
the  box  of  the  traveller's  cab,  and  on  arriving  at  the  hotel  extorts  money 
from  the  landlord  on  the  pretence  that  the  traveller  has  selected  the  hotel 
by  his  advice.  The  best  way  to  prevent  this  fraud,  which  is  a  kind  of 
relic  of  the  'camorra' ,  is  to  protest  emphatically  against  any  unauthor- 
ised person  mounting  the  box  Cgitt',  i-  e.  get  down),  and  to  call  in  the 
aid  of  the  police  if  necessary.  Remonstrances  at  the  hotel,  after  the  money 
has  been  extorted,  are  unavailing.  On  arriving  at  the  station  the  traveller 
should  entirely  disregard  the  representations  and  suggestions  with  which 
he  is  generally  pestered.  Let  him  drive  at  once  to  the  hotel  he  has 
selected,  and  if  it  should  happen  to  be  full  he  will  there  ascertain  without 
difficulty  where  good  accommodation  may  be  procured.  He  should  also 
keep  a  watchful  eye  on  his  luggage,  decline  the  services  of  officious  bystan- 
ders, and  beware  of  pickpockets.  As  tricks  of  the  above  description  are  too 
often  practised  at  "Naples,  the  traveller  should  be  on  his  guard  throughout 
the  whole  period  of  his  stay.  In  case  of  necessity  assistance  may  be  ob- 
tained from  the  nearest  policeman  (carabinieri,  black  and  red  coat  with 
three-cornered  hat ;  or  the  municipal  guardia  di  pubblica  xiciirezia,  dark 
uniform  with  military  cap). 

(b)  Br  Steamboat,  the  steamers  lay  to  outside  the  Porto  Grande. 
As  soon  as  permission  to  disembark  is  granted,  a  small  boat  (1  fr.  for  each 
person  with  or  without  luggage;  no  attention  should  be  paid  to  the  ab- 
surdly extortionate  demands  usually  made)  conveys  the  passengers  to  the 
Dogana  (PI.  24 ;  F,  5),  where  luggage  is  examined.  This  done,  one  of  the 
'facchini  della  dogana'  places  the  luggage  on  the  fiacre  or  other  conveyance 
(40  c.  for  luggage  under  200  lbs.,  or  60  c.  up  to  400  lbs.). 

Hotels.  Those  patronised  by  the  higher  classes  are  chiefly  situated 
in  the  Riviera  di  Chiaja,  facing  the  sea  and  extending  as  far  as  S.  Lucia. 
Naples  is  disagreeably  noisy  at  night.  The  quietest  situation  is  between 
S.  Lucia  and  the  beginning  of  the  Chiaja.  On  the  latter  the  rattling  of 
carriages  and  the  braying  of  donkeys  hardly  ever  ceases,  while  at  S.  Lucia 
the  .otherwise  n<rt  uninteresting  merry-makings  of  the  lower  classes  are 
often  fatal  to  repose.  Another  point  to  be  observed  is  that  at  St.  Lucia, 
in  the  Strada  Chiatamone,  and  elsewhere,  the  drains  emptying  themselves 
into  the  sea  pollute  the  air  very  perceptibly,  especially  in  spring  and 
summer,  chiefly  affecting  the  ronms  on  the  lower  floors.  In  these  situa- 
tions, and  indeed  in  every  part  of  Naples,  the  upper  floors  are  preferable 
to  the  lower.  (See  also  p.  26,  as  to  climate.)  <  >f  late  years  the  Corso 
Vittorio  Emanuele  on  the  hill  has  become  a  favourite  situation.  Hotel 
charges  are  always  high  at  Naples,  particularly  in  spring,  when  the  in- 
flux of  visitors  is  at  its  height.  Families  visiting  the  city  at  this  season 
had  better  secure  rooms  by  letter,  some  time  before  their  arrival.  In 
summer  the  principal  hotels  are  comparatively  empty,  and  therefore 
cheaper. 


22      Routed.  NAPLES.  Hotels. 

The  best  and  most  expensive  hotels  are  situated  on  the  side  of  the 
town  next  the  sea,  and  most  of  them  command  fine  views.  Charges: 
R.  4-6  fr.  and  upwards,  B.  l'j-2-2,  D.  4-6,  A.  1  fr. ;  travellers  who  do  not 
dine  at  the  table  d'hote  pay  more  for  their  rooms;  pension  at  some  of 
the  hotels  10-12  fr.  and  upwards. 

In  the  Strada  CMatamvne  (PI.  D,  E,  6,  7),  at  the  foot  of  the  Pizzo- 
falcone  :  "Washington  (PI.  a),  with  garden,  occupying  the  site  of  a  royal 
Casino,  opposite  the  Castel  dell'  Ovo.  Adjacent  is  a  new  dependance  of 
the  Hotel  des  Etrangers.  No.  32,  opposite,  is  the  Hotel  delle  Crocelle 
(PI.  g),  of  whieh  the  upper  rooms  only  command  a  view.  Nearer  the 
Chiaja,  No.  9,  'Hotel  des  Etrangers  (PI.  f);  No.  7,  "Stati  Uniti  (PI.  e), 
with  view  towards  the  Posilipo.  —  In  the  Largo  delta  Vittoria  (PI.  D,  6), 
opposite  the  Villa  Nazionale:  "Vittoria  (PI.  b);  *  Hotel  de  Naples  (PI.  d). 

—  In  the  Riviera  di  Chiaja  (PI.  D,  C,  B,  6) .  near  the  Villa  Nazionale, 
with  a  view  of  the  Villa  and  the  sea:  No.  276,  "Gran  Bretagna  (PI.  h), 
and  No.  270,  "Hotel  d'Angleterre  (PI.  i),  belonging  to  the  same  pro- 
prietor, dear  ;  Nos.  255,  253,  "IIoteldu  Louvre  (PI.  k),  handsomely  fitted  up. 

—  In  the  Strada  S.  Teresa  a  Chiaja:  Hotel  Hassler,  pension  8-10  fr. ; 
No.  127,  Hotel  de  la  Ville  (PI.  1),  opposite  the  end  of  the  Villa ,  some- 
what remote,  pension  8-10  fr.  --  In  the  Strada  S.  Lucia,  to  the  E.  of  the 
Pizzofalcone:  IIutel  de  Rome  (PI.  m),  close  to  the  sea,  R.  4,  D.  5  fr., 
well  spoken  of;  "Hotel  de  Russie  (PI.  nj,  well  fitted  up ,  R.  3-4  fr.  and 
upwards,  a  large  house  with  a  dependance  which  was  formerly  the  Hotel 
Bellevue. 

In  the  Corso  Vittoria  Emanuele  (PI.  B,  6),  on  the  hill  to  the  W. ,  is 
the  "Hotel  Tkamontano-Beaurivage,  healthily  situated,  and  commanding 
a  fine  view;    "Hotel  Nobile,  a  large  first-class  estab.,  D.  5  fr. 

The  following  second-class  hotels ,  though  not  on  the  coast,  are  con- 
veniently situated  near  it.  Near  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito  (PI.  E,  6): 
"Hotel  del  Plebiscito  (PI.  E,  6),  Via  Gennaro  Serra  24,  in  the  upper 
floors  of  the  building  only,  with  a  view  of  Vesuvius  beyond  the  church 
of  San  Ferdinando,  E.  4,  D.  4,  A.  lji  fr.  ;  Hotel  Montpellier  and  Hotel 
de  l'Europe  in  the  Strada  Nardones ,  the  second  side-street  on  the  left 
side  of  the  Toledo.  —  In  the  busy  Strada  Medina  (PI.  E ,  5) ,  not  far 
from  the  harbour:  "Hotel  de  Geneve  (PI.  o),  entrance  by  No.  13  Strada 
S.  Giuseppe,  E.  3,  D.  4'/2  fr.;  "Hotel  Central  (PI.  p),  Strada  Medina  72, 
commercial,  similar  charges;  Hotel  National  ,  Strada  Medina  5:  Hotel 
Cavour,  Strada  Medina  54,  well  spoken  of;  Hotel  del  Globo,  opposite 
the  Fontana  Medina.  —  In  the  Strada  del  Molo,  opposite  the  Castel  Nuovo : 
No.  24,  Hotel  Milano  (PI.  9),  unpretending,  R.  21)-.  A.  i|2  fr.  —  In  the 
Largo  Fioraitiiii  (near  the  theatre  of  that  name,  PI.  28;  E,  5):  Albergo 
dei  Fiori.  In  the  Piazza  del  Mtinicipio ,  nearly  opposite  the  church  of  S. 
Giacomo:  Albergo  j/Italia,  moderate. 

Pensions  (Boarding  Houses).  The  best  are  in  the  Strada  Chiatainone 
and  the  Eiviera  di  Chiaja:  Pension  Allemagna,  No.  23,  and  Pension  In- 
ternationale, No.  5  Chiatamone,  both  German  houses;  Pension  Univer- 
selle,  Strada  Vittoria  44,  47,  not  far  from  the  Piazza  of  that  name;  Bal- 
boni,  Via  Bisignano  2  (PI.  D,  6),  8-10  fr. ,  well  spoken  of;  Anglo- 
Americaine,  Riviera  di  Chiaja.  Nos.  211  and  118;  Pension  della  Eiviera, 
Chiaja  118;  Anglaise  (Mme.  Douglas),  7-10  fr.,  Chiaja  114;  Suez,  Chiaja 
36.  Near  the  Eiviera  di  Chiaja:  Mme.  Stanford,  Vico  Carminello  a 
Cliinja  49  ;  Britannique  (Mme.  Macpherson),  Rione  Principe  Amadeo  ,  be- 
low the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele.  In  the  Mergellina,  farther  distant: 
No.  23,  Villa  Karbaia  ;  No.  55,  Pension  Mergellina.  Then  in  S.  Lucia, 
No.  92,  Pension  IIomaine  (Mme.  V.  Pezzi),  3rd  floor. 

Hotels  Garnis.  For  a  stay  of  some  duration  the-  traveller  may  prefer 
to  take  rooms  at  a  private  hotel,  where  be  will  be  more  independent  than 
at  a  hotel  or  a  pension.  Charges  vary  with  the  season  ,  culminating  on 
unusual  occasions,  such  as  an  eruption  of  Mt.  Vesuvius,  which  inva- 
riably attracts  crowds  of  visitors.  The  rooms  are  generally  large  and 
fitted  up  for  two  persons:  with  one  bed  2'Ja-4  ,  with  two  beds  4-6  fr.  per 
day.     The  number   of  days    for    which    the  room  is  engaged  should  be  ex- 


Restaurants.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      23 

pressly  stated,  otherwise  the  visitor  may  he  required  to  leave  unexpectedly, 
and  a  distinct  hargain  should  be  made  as  to  charges  (e.  g.  :  A.  i|j  fr.,  L. 
30  c.  per  day).  Breakfast  may  usually  he  obtained  in  the  house,  but  better 
at  a  cafe.  Many  of  these  establishments  are  well  fitted  up,  but  are  not  so 
clean  or  well  organised  as  the  principal  hotels.  Houses  of  this  kind  arc 
to  be  found  on  the  side  of  the  town  next  the  sea,  from  S.  Lucia  and  Chia- 
tamone  to  the  Chiaja  and  the  3Iergellina ,  and  also  in  the  side-streets 
near  the  Chiaja  (Giovanni  Bausan,  Mandella  Oaetana,  Sta.  Teresa  a 
Chiaja,  etc.).  Thus  in  S.  Lucia  is  the  Hotel  New  Yokk,  formerly  the 
well  known  Casa  Combi,  with  different  proprietors  on  the  different  floors. 
Then  Chiaja  Nos.  84,  144,  155,  257,  263,  etc.  —  There  are  also  several 
hotels  garnis  in  the  Corso  Yittovio  Emanuele. 

For  the  summer  months  apartments  in  one  of  the  surrounding  villas 
may  be  engaged  through  a  house-agent. 

The  Water  at  Naples  is  bad,  and  if  drunk  without  being  iced  is  apt 
to  cause  diarrhoea.  Careful  diet  (rice),  rest,  change  of  air  (an  excursion  of 
1-2  days) ,  and  eating  ice  are  among  the  most  effectual  remedies  for  this 
malady. 

Restaurants  (  Trattorie )  very  numerous.  Italian  cuisine.  Dinners  usually 
a  la  carte;  three  dishes  with  fruit  and  wine  2-3l|2  fr. ;  iced  water  (acqua 
gelata)  5  c.  ;  good  table-wine  30-40  c.  per  half-litre;  bread,  generally  in- 
different, 15  c.  {pane  francese  of  finer  flour) ;  gratuity  1  soldo  for  each  franc 
of  the  bill.  Most  of  the  restaurants  also  give  dinners  at  a  fixed  price 
{prezzo  fisso)  varying  from  2I|2  to  5  fr.  —  Smoking  universal;  ladies,  how- 
ever ,  may  visit  the  better  of  these  establishments.  Most  of  them  are 
situated  in  the  Toledo,  on  the  first-floor,  the  entrance  being  generally 
from   a   side-street. 

On  the  W.  Side  of  the  Toledo:  "Caffe  del  Pal.  Reale,  handsome  and 
expensive,  table  d'hote  at  5,  5.30,  or  6  according  to  the  season,  4  fr. ; 
'■'Restaurant  du  Cafe  de  VEurope,  above  the  cafe  of  that  name,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Strada  di  Chiaja  and  the  Toledo,  dear;  Restaurant  de  Naples, 
Toledo  236,  entrance  in  the  Str.  Sergente  ;  Restaurant  du  Louvre,  entrance 
Vico  Tre  Re  60;    Trattoria   Cenlrale,  Toledo  291,  also  a  'birreria'. 

On  the  E.  Side  of  the  Toledo:  'Giardini  di  Torino,  entrance  Vico 
Campano  70,  moderate.  Then,  No.  198  (entrance  S.  Brigida  2),  "Villa  di 
Napoli,  an  old-established  trattoria,  visited  by  strangers  as  well  as  Neapoli- 
tans. Villa  di  Torino,  Vico  della  Concezione  a  Toledo  3 ,  a  side-street  be- 
tween the  Toledo  and  the  Piazza  della  Municipio  ,  viands  good,  rooms 
indifferent ,  one  of  the  oldest  trattorie  in  Naples,  formerly  the  chief  resort 
of  strangers.  '■'Birreria  Dreher  (suitable  for  breakfast:  'plat  du  jour'  1  fr.), 
in  the  Largo  S.  Francesco  di  Paola  (see  p.  24);  "  Hosier'' s  German  Restau- 
rant, Vico  Baglivo  LTries  38,  a  side-street  on  the  left  of  the  Strada  Guantai 
Nuovi  (PI.  E,  5).  moderate;  Zepf -Weber  (also  a  cafe),  Str.  del  Molo  2; 
Cafe  du  Commerce,  near  the  last,  in  the  Str.  Medina,  table  d'hote  at  6  o'clock 
3  fr.;  Al  Vermouth  di  Torino,  Piazza  del  Municipio  10,  B.  or  D.  from  2lji  fr.; 
Armonia,  Str.  di  Chiaja  134;     Trattoria  di  Gennaro,  Str.  Vittoria  a  Chiaja. 

The  Maccaroni  of  Naples  is  much  esteemed,  but  is  generally  hard,  and 
should  therefore  be  ordered  lben  cotti'.  It  is  usually  flavoured  with  jwmi 
d'oro  (tomatas),  of  which  the  Neapolitans  are  very  fond,  tica-fish  and  ra- 
ilustra ,  a  kind  of  lobster,  excellent.  Shell-fish-soup  (zuppa  di  vongole),  a 
good  but  indigestible  dish.  Oysters  (ostriclie)  are  least  expensive  at  S. 
■  Lucia;  the  best  are  from,  the  Lago  Fusaro ,  l-l1^  fr.  per  dozen.  Those 
who  care  to  witness  a  characteristic  phase  of  Neapolitan  life  should  visit 
one  of  the  oyster-stalls,  but  many  will  prefer  the  more  refined  restaurants 
des  Etrangers  and  du  Vesure,  situated  on  the  promontory  mentioned  p.  39. 
An  Gstricftaio,  or  oyster-seller,  generally  visits  the  restaurants  in  the 
town  about  the  dinner-hour. 

Good  fish  may  also  be  procured  at  the  Trattorie  di  Gampagna,  by  the 
Posilipo ,  close  to  the  sea ;  e.  g.  La  Schiava ,  or  Monaco ,  close  to  the 
ruins  of  the  Palazzo  di  Donn'  Anna  (p.  80),  1  31.  from  the  W.  end  of 
the  town;  about  'Jj  M.  beyond  it  is  the  Anlica  Trattoria  dello  Scoglio  di 
Frisio ,    above  it  the  Trattoria  al  Pergolato  dello  Scoglio  di  Frisio;  both  of 


24      Route  4.  NAPLES.  Cafes. 

these    are   much  visited    on    summer  evenings  (high  charges ,    as  to  which 
enquiry  had  better  be  made  beforehand). 

Wine.  The  wine  of  the  environs  is  generally  excellent,  50-80  c.  per 
litre,  such  as  Gragnano ,  Vino  di  Procida ,  del  Monte,  di  Posilipo,  and 
Falerno  (sweet) ;  whereas  Marsala,  Capri ,  and  Lachrima  Christi  are  gene- 
rally adulterated.  Wine-stores:  Str.  Pace  9;  Str.  di  Cliiaja  136,  146; 
Vicii  Cuncezione  a  Toledo  42,  etc. 

Cafes.  Smoking  allowed  everywhere.  A  dejeuner  a  la  fourchette  is 
more  expeditious  at  a  cafe  than  at  the  trattorie.  On  summer  evenings 
the  cafe's  are  crowded  with  ice-eaters;  in  the  morning  granita  only.  The 
average  charges  are :  cup  of  'caffe  nero'  15-20  c.  ,  'caffe  bianco'  or  'caffe 
latte1  40 ,  'granita  di  caffe1 ,  or  frozen  coffee  (refreshing  in  hot  weather, 
and  may  be  taken  at  breakfast)  40,  chocolate  80,  bread  or  coffee-cake 
(pasta)  15-20  c. ,  two  fried  eggs  (due  uova  al  piatto)  40-60  c. ;  steak  or 
cutlet  1  fr.  to  1  fr.  20  c.  The  list  of  ices  sometimes  contains  a  great  va- 
riety ■  granita  40-50  c,  gelato  60  c.  and  upwards  ;  half-portions  of  the  for- 
mer may  be  obtained.     Gratuity  5  c.  or  more. 

The  best  cafes  are  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Toledo,  near  the  Piazza  del 
Plebiscito.  Here  are  situated  the  "Gran  Cafe  del  J'ula-zo  Rente ,  in  the 
Piazza  S.  Ferdinando,  opposite  the  palace.  Adjacent,  at  the  corner  of  the 
Str.  di  Chiaja,  : '' Europa  ,  with  restaurant  (upper  iloor  more  expensive 
than  lower).  There  are  also  several  smaller  cafes  in  the  Toledo.  —  We 
may  next  mention:  Benvemito ,  Str.  di  Chiaja  140,  opposite  the  church 
of  S.  Caterina  (PI.  41;  D,  6),  excellent  ices;  "Italia  Meridionale ,  Str.  di 
Chiaja  83,  not  far  from  the  Toledo,  moderate,  suitable  for  luncheon.  — 
Commercio,  Piazza  Medina,  and  Zepf-Weber,  Str.  del  Molo  ,  see  above.  — 
At  the  Villa:  Cafe  Nazionale  and  Grand  Pavilion,  concerts  in  the  evening, 
when  the  charges  for  refreshments  are  slightly  raised. 

Visitors  to  the  Museum  will  find  the  cafes  Comito  and  Casillo  in  the 
new  houses  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Toledo,  on  the  right  as  they  ascend 
from  the  Piazza  Dante ,  and  a  small  cafe  opposite  the  museum ,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Piazza  Cavour,  convenient  for  luncheon. 

Beer.  The  best  is  obtained  at  the  "Birreria  Dreher,  in  the  Largo  S. 
Francesco  di  Paola ,  between  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito  and  the  Strada  di 
Chiaja  (PI.  E,  6);  excellent  Vienna  beer,  35c.  for  a  small,  60c.  for  a 
large  glass;  this  is  also  a  good  restaurant.  Other  birrerie:  Toledo  291, 
Str.  S.  Carlo  48,  etc.  —  Munich  beer  at  Hasler's  German  Restaurant  (see 
above).  At  other  places  the  slightly  effervescing  beer  of  Caflisch's  brew- 
ery at  Capodimonte  (50  c.  per  bottle)  is  usually  drunk. 

Confectioners:  Caflisch,  Toledo  255;  l)e  Angelis,  Toledo  247;  VAlbero, 
Toledo  218;  Ferroni,  S.  Brigida  3.  —  Boulangerie  Francaise ,  Largo  S. 
Ferdinando  51.  —  Epicerie  Anglaise,  Largo  Vittoria. 

Cigars  at  the  Spaccio  Xormale,  Toledo  248,  on  the  left  when  approached 
from  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito.    Imported  Havannahs  from  25  c.  upwards. 

Money  Changers,  employed  by  the  bank  for  public  convenience, 
are  stationed  at  several  of  the  most  frequented  parts  of  the  streets.  Small 
notes  under  10  fr.  may  be  exchanged  here  for  copper,  either  gratuitously, 
or  at  a  charge  of  2  c.  per  5  fr. ;  the  change  should  of  course  be  counted. 
In  order  to  avoid  imposition  and  many  a  trial  of  patience,  the  traveller 
should  always  be  well  provided  with  small  coin  as  well  as  the  smallest 
notes  of  the  country.     There  are  no  '|»  fr.  notes  at  Naples. 

Bankers.  Iggulden  <(•  Son,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Villa  Nazionale., 
A.  Levy  et  Comp. ,  Palazzo  Cavalcante,  Toledo  348.  Meuricoffre  et  Comp.,' 
Piazza  del  Municipio  52.  ilinasi  ,(■  Arlotta ,  Strada  Montoliveto  37;  Sor- 
rillo ,  in  the  same  house.  Hills  of  exchange  must  be  stamped  on  pre- 
sentation for  payment  with  a  'bollo  slraordinario\  obtainable  from  the 
bankers. 

Consulates.  American  I.Mr.  Duncan),  Via  della  Pace  15;  Austrian, 
Strada  Montoliveto  37  ;  Belgian,  Str.  Donn'  Albina  56  :  British  (Mr.  Calvert), 
Vico  Colascione  a  Monte  di  Dio ;  Danish  and  Swedish,  Str.  Piliero  16; 
French,  Via  Poerio  3i:  German,  Str.  Guantai  Nuovi  69;  Russian,  Via  S. 
Teresetta  a  Chiaja;   Spanish,  Str.  Pace  24 ;  Swiss,  Piazza  del  Municipio  52. 


Carriages.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      25 

Carriages.  The  distances  in  Naples  are  so  great,  carriage-fares  are  so 
moderate,  and  walking  in  the  hot  season  is  so  fatiguing,  that  most  tra- 
vellers will  prefer  driving  to  walking.  A  private  two-horse  carriage  for 
excursions  costs  20-25  fr.  per  day,  or  12-15  fr.  for  half-a-day,  besides  a 
gratuity  of  2-3  fr.  —  Carriages  may  be  hired  at  the  hotels,  at  S.  Lucia 
31,  etc.     The  ordinary  cabs  are  of  course  the  cheapest  conveyances. 

(a)  Within  the  City  ,  the  boundaries  of  which  are  as  follows  ('begin- 
ning on  the  W.)  :  From  the  Fontana  del  Lione  on  the  Mcrgellimi  and 
the  small  piazza  in  front  of  S.  Maria  di  Piedigrotta  (PI.  A.  7)  along  the 
Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  to  the  Carceri  di  S.  Efrenio  Nuovo,  in  the  Strada 
delle  Fontanelle  (PI.  D,  2.  3);  thence  to  S.  Cennaro  dei  Poveri  (catacombs; 
PI.  1),  2)  and  the  Tondo  di  Capodimonte  with  the  stairs  ;  then  to  8.  Efremo 
Vecchio,  the  Albergo  dei  Poveri  in  the  Strada  Foria  (PI.  F,  ('.,  I,  2)  and 
along  the  Strada  delF  Arenaccia  to  the  sea,  and  the  Ponte  della  Maddelena 
(PI.  H,  4). 

With  one  horse  ('carrozzella',  for  two  persons  By  day         Midnight 

at  most):  to  sunrise 

Per  drive —      70  c.     1  fr.  10  c. 

By  time  (generally  disadvantageous),  first  hour     1   fr.  50  c.     2  fr.  10  c. 

Each  additional  hour 1  fr.  10  c.     1  fr.  50  c. 

With  two  horses:  per  drive 1  fr.  40  c.     2  fr.  20  c. 

First  hour 2  fr.  20  c.     3  fr.  20  c. 

Each  additional  hour 1  fr.  70  c.     2  fr.  20  c. 

Each  box  from  the  station  to  the  town  90  c.,  smaller  articles  free.  In 
order  to  avoid  imposition,  the  best  course  is  to  pay  the  exact  fare,  and  not 
a  single  soldo  more.  Those  who  are  disposed  to  pay  liberally  are  sure  to 
be  victimised.  In  case  of  altercations  ,  application  should  be  made  to  the 
nearest  policeman,  or  at  the  office  of  the  Corso  Pubblico  on  the  first  floor  of 
the  Municipio. 

(b)  Outside  the  Citst:  —  One-horse    Two-horse 

Villaggio  di  Posilipo 1.  50  2.  25 

Villuggio  di  Fuorigrotta 1.  20  1.  75 

Bagnoli  and  Logo  d'Agnano  {Dog  Grotto)   .  2.  —  3.  — 

Arenella  ,  Anlignano ,    Vomero,   »S'.  Mariino, 

or  Capodimonte 1.  50  2.  25 

Campo  di  Marte  or  Oimeterio  Nuovo  ...  1.  50  2.  25 

Portici 1.  75  2.  50 

Miano,  Marianella 2.  —  3.  — 

Resina 2.  —  3.  — 

Torre  del  Greco 2.  50  3.  75 

*S'.   Giorgio  a   Cremano  or  Barret      ....  1.  7o  2.  50 

These  are  the  fares  from  the  stands  nearest  to  the  respective  points.  Un- 
less a  special  bargain  be  made,  the  fares  from  other  stands  are  70  c.  to  1  fr. 
20  c.  in  excess  of  the  above.  For  longer  excursions,  an  agreement  should 
be  made  with  the  driver  beforehand.  On  being  informed  of  the  distance 
of  the  intended  drive,  he  generally  makes  an  extravagant  demand.  In 
answer ,  the  hirer  offers  what  he  considers  a  fair  sum  ,  and  quietly  with- 
draws if  the  driver  objects.  This  course  seldom  fails  to  produce  the  de- 
sired result.     On  Sundays  and  holidays  the  fares  are  somewhat  higher. 

Omnibuses  afford  a  convenient  opportunity,  especially  to  a  single  tra- 
veller, of  visiting  the  Museum,  and  of  making  short  excursions  in  the  en- 
virons. Fare  20  c.  on  all  the  lines.  The  starting-point  of  the  three 
chief  lines  is  the  Largo  S.  Fkkdixando  (PI.  E,  6),  a  small  piazza  adjoin- 
ing the  Piazza  del  Plebiscite  on  the  X.;  the  omnibus  station  is  in  the 
corner,  between  the  Palazzo  Keale  and  the  Teatro  S.  Carlo.  The  Ihree 
following  lines  diverge  hence:  (1)  Vp  the  Toledo  to  the  Museum,  thence 
to  the  right  by  the  Strada  Foria  and  across  the  Albergo  rfe'  Puveri  (.PI. 
G,  1).  —  (2)  Up  the  Toledo,  turning  to  the  right,  traversing  the  Stnida 
S.  Trinita  Maggiore,  Strada  del  Duomo,  Strada  de'  Tribunali,  and  stopping 
in  the  court  of  the  Tribunali  (Castel  Capuano,  PI.  F,  O.  3).  —  {'.))  Through 
the  Strada  S.  Carlo,  Piazza  del  Municipio,  Strada  del  Molo ,  along  the 
Harbour,    past   S.  Maria   del  Carmine   (PI.  5!);    <:.    i),    and   by   the    Corso 


26      Route  I.  NAPLES.  Baths. 

Garibaldi  to  the  Railway  Station  (PI.  G,  3).  (An  omnibus  also  runs 
nearly  every  hour  from  the  Largo  S.  Ferdinando  to  Portici  in  a  little  more 
than  1  hr. ;'  fare  40  c.)  —  From  the  entrance  to  the  Villa  in  the  Largo 
Vittoria  (PI.  1) ,  6)  an  omnibus  runs  through  the  Strada  di  Chiaja,  up 
the  Toledo,  and  to  the  Museum,  where  it  turns  to  the  right  to  the  Porta 
S.  Gennaro  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Piazza  Cavour  (PI.  E,  3).  —  Another  line 
runs  from  the  Post  Office  (PI.  23 ;  E,  4)  down  the  Strada  di  Blonto- 
liveto,  through  the  Str.  Medina,  Piazza  del  Municipio,  Strada  S.  Carlo, 
and  Strada  di  Chiaja  (in  the  evening  by  S.  Lucia),  to  the  Riviera  di 
Chiaja  and  the  beginning  of  the  Mergellina  (PI.  A,  7). 

Boats.  Charges  vary  according  to  circumstances.  A  boat  with  four 
rowers  about  15  fr.  per  day.     A  row  in  the  harbour  l-l'fe  fr.  for  the  first, 

1  fr.  for  each  additional  hour.  A  previous  agreement  should  invariably  be 
made.     Boats  to  the  steamers,  see  pp.  21,  101,  150). 

Commissionaires  charge  6  fr.  a  day,  or  for  a  single  walk  1  fr. ;  but 
travellers  who  intend  making  purchases  had  better  dispense  with  their  ser- 
vices. Some  of  the  best  guides  are  Swiss  and  Germans.  Johann  Huber, 
Zam  Stein,  Staub  ,  and  others  organise  excursions  in  the  environs.  Thus 
Huber  generally  escorts  a  party  weekly  to  Amalfi,  Ravello,  and  Psestum, 
the  excursion  lasting  from  Monday  morning  to  Tuesday  evening,  and  the 
charge,  including  quarters  for  the  night,  being  50  fr.  for  each  person. 
Trustworthy  information  may  be  obtained  at  Detken's  book-shop  (see  below). 

Baths.  Warm:  "Strada  della  Pace  16,  near  Chiatamone  (bath  in 
summer  1  fr.  15,  in  the  evening  1  fr.  35  c. ;  in  winter  1  fr.  70  or  2  fr. 
50  c;  six  baths  in  summer  5'|2fr.,  in  winter  9  fr. ;  gratuity  for  each  bath 

2  soldi).  Others  near  the  Hotel  de  Rome  at  S.  Lucia;  Vico  Belle  Donne 
a  Chiaja  12;  Calata  S.  Marco  a  Fontana  Medina  6;  Stabilimento  Idrotera- 
jtico  of  Dr.  Paoni ,  Strada  Cavallerizza  a  Chiaja  47.  —  Sea- Bathing  in 
summer.  The  most  frequented  place  is  beyond  the  Villa  Nazionale,  but  as 
the  drains  of  the  town  empty  themselves  in  the  vicinity,  the  water  is  not 
very  clean.  A  better  place  is  at  the  Posilipo  near  the  Villa  Monplaisir, 
immediately  beyond  the  precincts  of  the  city;  large  cabinet  1  fr.  with 
towels,  small  cabinet  50  c.  ;  fee  5  c.  —  On  entering  the  water,  bathers 
should  take  care  to  observe  the  number  of  their  cabinet,  and  to  avoid 
touching  the  stakes  which  are  encrusted  with  very  sharp  shells.  —  The 
baths  by  S.  Lucia  and  the  Marinella  cannot  be  recommended  to  strangers. 

Lieux  dWisaiice  (10  c.)  at  the  Villa,  by  the  egress  towards  the  sea;  also 
by  the  promontory  of  S.  Lucia,  to  which  a  flight  of  steps  descends,  tn 
the  left.  

The  Climate  of  Naples  is  more  equable  both  in  summer  and  winter 
than  that  of  Home  and  Florence.  The  mean  temperature  is  about  63°; 
during  the  greatest  heat  the  thermometer  occasionally,  but  very  rarely, 
rises  to  104°  in  the  shade  ;  and  during  the  coldest  weather  it  sometimes 
falls  to  27iJ-j°.  The  hottest  weather  is  between  22nd  June  and  22nd  Aug., 
when  the  temperature  is  seldom  above  90°  ;  the  coldest  between  12th  Dec. 
and  12th  March  ,  when  the  thermometer  seldom  falls  below  30°.  From 
October  to  March  the  rainy  S.  wind  prevails,  and  from  April  to  September 
the  dry  K.  or  N.E.  wind,  when  the  sky  is  generally  bright  and  cloud- 
less. Most  of  the  rainy  days  occur  in  autumn  and  winter  and  the  fewest 
in  summer,  in  consequence  of  which  the  vegetation  is  burned  up  in  the 
hot  reason.  Fogs  are  very  rare.  Hail  is  not  common,  but  when  it  falls 
is  apt  to  be  very  destructive.  Snow  hardly  ever  falls  in  the  town,  but 
the  neighbouring  Apennines  are  covered  with  snow  until  summer,  and 
snowfalls  occur  on  Vesuvius  in  spring.  Great  changes  of  temperature 
accordingly  often  take  place,  and  invalids  should  therefore  consult  an 
experienced  medical  adviser  as  to  the  most  suitable  season  for  a  stay  in 
Naples  and  as  to  the  situation  of  their  apartments.  Even  persons  in 
robust  health  should  lie  on  their  guard  against  these  treacherous  varia- 
tions.    (Comp.   p.  21.) 

Spring-water  at  Naples  is  neither  abundant  nor  good  (see  also  p.  23). 
In  ancient  times   the  city   was  supplied    by  aqueducts.     Most  of  the  pre- 


Shops.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      "27 

sent  supply  is  derived  from  cisterns.  The  new  water-works  now  in  pro- 
gress will  not  be  completed  for  4-5  years  more. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Barringer ,  Str.  Vittoria  41 ;  Dr.  Dempster ,  Riv.  di 
Chiaja;  Dr.  Wijalt ,  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja,  Pal.  Calabritta;  Dr.  tichran, 
professor  of  anatomy  at  the  university,  Palazzo  Montemiletto  ,  Corso  Vitt. 
Emanuele  152,  hours  of  consultation  9-10  and  2-3;  Dr.  Obenaus,  physician 
of  the  German  hospital,  Palazzo  Cassano ,  Str.  Monte  di  Dio  14  a  Pizzo- 
falcone;  Dr.  ffeuberger,  Piazza  Medina,  Hot.  Cavour;  Dr.  (Slrimm,  Riv.  di 
Chiaja  118;  Dr.  Gantani,  director  of  the  Clinica  Medica  at  the  university, 
Palazzo  Tarsia,  Largio  Tarsia;  Dr.  C.  Vittorelli,  Str.  Nardones  8  (1-2).  — 
German  Hospital,  see  below. 

Chemists.  English,  Kernot,  Strada  S.  Carlo  14.  German,  Berncastel, 
Largo  S.  Francesco  di  Paola,  adjoining  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito.  Drug- 
dealers,  Fratelli  Herrmann,  Piazza  del  Municipio. 

While  dealing  with  the  subject  of  health  we  may  mention  the  well 
organised  Ospedale  Tedesco,  Cappella  Vecchia  18,  under  the  superinten- 
dence of  Dr.  Obenaus.  Travellers  who  have  the  misfortune  to  be  taken 
seriously  ill  are  advised  to  procure  admission  to  this  hospital  as  they 
are  very  apt  to  be  neglected  at  the  hotels. 


Teachers  of  Languages.  Addresses  may  be  obtained  at  the  booksellers'. 

Shops.  Gloves,  coral,  tortoise-shell,  and  lava  ornaments  may  be  men- 
tioned as  specialities  of  Naples.  Copies  of  ancient  bronzes,  Etruscan  vases, 
etc.  arc  also  well  executed  here.  Bargaining  is  absolutely  necessary  in 
order  to  prevent  extortion.  Those  who  know  something  of  the  language 
will  of  course  buy  to  the  best  advantage. 

Antique  Bronzes.  Copies  are  largely  manufactured  by  Masulli,  depot 
Piazza  de'  Martiri  64,  whence  the  purchaser  may  desire  them  to  be  for- 
warded direct  to  his  own  country  (Narcissus  100-150  fr. ;  Dancing  Faun 
130—160  fr.). 

Antiquities.  Barone,  Str.  Trinita  Maggiore  6,  first  floor,  nearly  oppo- 
site S.  Chiara. 

Booksellers.  DetTien  d-  Rocholl,  Piazza  del  Plebiscito;  circulating  li- 
brary ,  newspapers ,  etc. ;  Hcepli ,  Via  di  Roma  (Toledo)  224  ;  Marghieri, 
Toledo  140.     Dorant,  English  reading-room,  Riviera  di  Chiaja  267. 

Bookbinder,  Str.  di  Chiaja  65. 

Bronzes,  see  Antique  Bronzes. 

Chemists,  see  above. 

Coral  and  Lava.  ::'Achille  Squadrilli,  Str.  Pace  7,  in  the  Palazzo  Nun- 
ziante,  first  floor,  entrance  by  the  court;  pretty  brooches  in  lava  12'|2, 
earrings  10 ,  bracelets  2'|2  fr.  and  upwards ;  fixed  prices ,  but  5  per  cent 
discount  allowed.  "Bolten,  Piazza  de'  Martiri  58:  C'asalta  <fr  Morabito, 
Piazza  dei  Martiri  60;  Merlino,  Strada  del  Gigante  18,  19;  Palchetti,  Ca- 
lata  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  32,  33;  Stella,  Str.  Pace  9,  cameos.  —  The  so- 
called  lava-ornaments  are  manufactured  of  a  kind  of  calcareous  tufa,  a 
softer  material  also  found  on  Mt.  Vesuvius,  having  been  probably  thrown 
up  by  former  eruptions,  and  presenting  various  tints  of  grey,  brown, 
greenish,  and  reddish  colours. 

Gloves.  Bossi ,  Toledo  179;  Cremonesi,  Largo  S.  Ferdinando  50; 
Crisculo,  Strada  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  74,  75,  near  the  Piazza  dei  Martiri; 
Boudillon,  Strada  di    Chiaja  202;   Cuostu,  Str.  di  Chiaja  56  and  137. 

Hairdresser,  see  Perfumer. 

Hatter,  Mammolino,  Toledo  258. 

Millinery.  Ricco,  Strada.  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  8,  9;  Poma,  Strada  di 
Chiaja  195,  196;  Jtmrdan,  Strada  di  Chiaja  209,  first  floor. 

Muso',  see  Pianos. 

Optician,  Heinemann,  Toledo  213- 

Perfumer,  Zempt,  Str.  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  34;  the  pleasant,  soft 
Neapolitan  soap  is  sold  here. 

Photographs  are  sold  at  the  book-shops,  and  also  by  Sommer,  Largo 
Vittoria   and   Calata   S.  Caterina   a   Chiaja  5,  where   views    of  every   part 


28      Route  4.  NAPLES.  Theatres. 

of  Italy,  copies  of  bronzes,  terracottas,  etc.  may  be  purchased;  Scala, 
Strada  S.  Caterina  a  Cbiaja  42;  Amodio,  same  street,  No.  3;  Cannone  &■ 
Gargiulo,  Strada  8.  Lucia  85,  86;  these  three  also  sell  bronzes,  terra- 
cottas, etc.;  Hire,  Strada  S.  Lucia  1;  Grillet,  Chiatamone  6;  Fotografia 
Pompeiaiui  (Ett.  l>e  Sio  Cesari),  for  Pompeian   photographs,  Toledo  205. 

Pianos  (also  for  hire).  Eppler,  Strada  Nardones  95;  Helzel,  Strada 
S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  138;  Mach,  Piazza  dei  Martiri  33;  Sievers,  Palazzo 
Francavilla,  Strada  di  Chiaja  149;  Schmidt,  Strada  Nardones  51.  —  Ger- 
man Music  at  Detken\s;  Italian  at  Cottraus,  Largo  S.  Ferdinando  49,  and 
Clausettts,  Strada  S.  Carlo  18.  —  Music  Masters,  very  numerous;  addresses 
obtained  at  the  music-shops. 

Shoemakers.  Finoja,  Strada  Alabavdieri  53,  54;  Burrington,  Piazza 
de1  Martiri  57;  Baldelli,  Strada  di  Chiaja  169;  Chaussures  de  Paris, 
Toledo  256. 

Tailors.  Lennon  (English),  Str.  8.  Caterina  a  Chiaia  2;  Mackenzie, 
Piazza  de1  Martiri  51,  52;  Kieper ,  Str.  Montoliveto  61  (nearly  opposite 
the  post-office)  ;   Devallier,  Str.    di  Chiaja  204. 

Tortoise  Shell.  F.  Labriola,  Largo  Vittoria  1;  M.  Labriula,  Strada 
S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  69;  Tagliaferri,  same  street,  43.  Also  at  the  small 
shops  in  the  Strada  S.  Carlo  and  Piazza  del  Municipio. 

Umbrellas  asd  Fans.  Gilardini,  Toledo  335,336:  De  Martina,  Stra'la 
di  Chiaja  210. 

Vases,  Terracottas,  and  Statuettes  (of  Neapolitan  figures,  very 
characteristic):  Giustiniani,  Str.  del  Gigante  20;  Colonese,  Strada  Mari- 
nella  21 ;  Mollica,  Strada  S.  Lucia  27. 

Watchmakers.  Gutwenger ,  Str.  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja  66;  Eberhard, 
Str.  di  Chiaja  207,  not  far  from  the  Toledo;    Wyss,  Str.  di  Chiaja  5. 


Theatres  (comp.  p.  xxiv).  The  'Teatro  S.  Carlo  (p.  41),  one  of  the  largest 
theatres  in  Europe,  contains  six  tiers  of  boxes,  32  in  each.  Operas  and  ballet 
only.  Parterre  (pit)  3  fr.  (arm-chair  6fr.);  boxes,  1st  tier  (parterre)  40  fr., 
2nd'  tier  50  fr.,  3rd  32  fr.,  and  so  on.  —  Teatro  del  Fondo  (or  Merca- 
danie),  in  the  Str.  del  Molo,  dramas  and  comedies,  and  in  summer  operas. 
Pit  2  fr.  (arm-chair  4  fr.)  ;  boxes,  ist  tier  15  fr.,  2nd  tier  20  fr.,  etc.  — 
Teatro  Fiorentini,  in  the  street  of  that  name.  Dramas.  Pit  1  fr.  40; 
boxes,  1st  tier  II  fr.  75  c,  2nd  tier  12  fr.  75  c,  etc.  —  Teatro  Nazio- 
nale,  Strada  Xuova.  Comic  opera  and  pulcinella.  Pit  1  fr.  ;  boxes  7  fr., 
8  fr.  50  c,  etc.  —  Teatro  Sannazaro,  on  the  Chiaja,  a  pleasing  little 
theatre  for  operettas.  Pit  3  fr.  —  San  Carlino  ,  Piazza  del  Municipio, 
where  the  visitor  may  become  acquainted  with  'Pulcinel)a,,  the 'Punch  and 
Judy'  of  the  Neapolitans,  to  whom  the  spectacle  is  an  unfailing  source  of 
amusement.  These  performances  (twice  daily)  are  said  to  derive  their 
origin  from  the  ancient  Oscan  comedy  of  Atella.  Those  who  have  some  know- 
ledge of  the  Neapolitan  dialect  will  find  them  not  beneath  their  notice. 
Pit  85  c;  boxes  6  fr.  40,  or  5  fr.  10  c.  —  Teatro  Paktenope,  similar  to  the 
last,  Piazza  Cavour. 


Post  and  Telegraph-Office  in  the  Palazzo  Gravina  (PI.  23,  E,  4),  Strada 
Montoliveto.  Branch  Offices  in  the  Largo  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja ,  the  rail- 
way station,  Str.  Foria,  177,  and  at  the  Immacolatella  on  the  quay 
(p.  43).  Letters  should  be  posted  at  the  branch-offices  2  hrs.,  and  at  the 
general  post-office  1  hr.  before  the  departure  of  the  mail-train  for  which 
they  are  intended.  The  office  for  the  Diligences  to  Gaeta  and  Terracina 
(R.*2),  Avezzano  (Ii.  17),  Reggio  in  Calabria  (R.  20),  and  Potenza  (R.  19)  is 
at  the  general  post-ol'iice,  or  the  counting-houses  of  the  neighbouring  goods- 
agents.  I—  The  chief  Telegraph  Office,  on  the  first  floor  of  the  Palazzo 
Gravina,  is  open  day  and  night.  Branch  Offices  Str.  S.  Teresa  a  Chiaja  6, 
Yico  Concezione  a  Toledo  16,  and  Str.  Foria  108. 

Railways.  The  station  is  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town,  in  the  Corso 
Garibaldi   (PI.    G,  3).      Passengers    should  be  at   the  station  in  good  time 


Festivals.  NAPLES.  i.  Route.      29 

(comp.  p.  xviii).  Those  wlio  wish  tn  go  by  an  omnibus  to  the  station 
should  ask  before  getting  into  it  whether  it  will  reach  the  station  in 
time,  as  the  omnibuses  do  not  run  in  connection  with  the  trains. 

Steamboats.  Most  of  the  offices  are  on  the  quay.  Societd  Peirano 
Daiiovaro  <£•  Co.,  Strada  Piliero  33:  to  Civita  Vecchia,  Leghorn,  and 
Genoa  four  times  weekly;  to  Paola,  Messina,  Eeggio,  and  Catania  once 
weekly;  to  these  came  ports  and  thence  to  Catanzaro  ,  Cotrone,  Taranto, 
and  Ancona  once  weekly.  —  Societd  J.  V.  Fiona  &  Co.,  Str.  Piliero  30: 
to  Palermo  five  times  weekly;  to  Messina  three  times  weekly.  Some  of 
this  company's  vessels  are  new  and  comfortable,  while  others  are  the 
reverse.  Enquiry  on  this  point  should  therefore  be  made  beforehand.  — 
Societci  La  Trinacritt  v  Str.  Piliero  7:  to  Leghorn,  Genoa,  and  Marseilles 
once  weekly;  to  Palermo  once  weekly  (vessels  new  and  good).  —  Vessels 
of  the  French  company  Valery  Freres  et  Fils,  Str.  Piliero  I ,  and  of  Fraissinel 
el  Co.,  Str.  Piliero  3,  start  twice  weekly  for  Civita  Vecchia,  Leghorn, 
Genoa,  and  Marseilles.  —  Rubattino  &■  Co.',  Str.  Piliero  15,  once  weekly  to 
Cagliari  in  30  hrs. ;  three  times  monthly  to  Alexandria.  —  During  the  pre- 
valence of  cholera  many  of  the  steamers  cease  to  ply.  —  Embarcation  of 
each  passenger  1  fr.  incl.  luggage,  comp.  p.  21. 


Street  Traffic.  The  stranger  is  beset  and  importuned  in  the  principal 
streets  by  numbers  of  hawkers,  who  of  course  practise  gross  imposition  on 
those  who  are  unacquainted  with  the  prices.  As  a  rule  one-third  of  the 
sum  demanded  should  be  offered,  and  all  discussion  avoided. 

Shoe-blacks,  whose  knocking  is  intended  to  attract  passers-by,  5  c. 

Matches.  A  box  of  vestas  (cerini,  10,  or  two  boxes  15  c.)  is  a  desirable 
acquisition,  as  matches  are  never  provided  at  the  hotels. 

Vendors  of  Iced  Water  (acquaiuoli)  carry  on  a  very  brisk  traffic  in 
summer.  They  are  usually  provided  with  two  large  tubs  filled  with  snow, 
in  which  the  water  is  cooled,  and  a  supply  of  lemons,  etc.  Iced  water 
2  c.  per  glass;  with  lemon,  amarena,  or  anisette  5  c.  ;  with  lemon,  syrup, 
and  anisette  10  c.  —  There  are  also  several  mineral  springs  in  the  town, 
containing  sulphur,  iron,  and  carbonic  acid  gas;  the  best  known  is  at  S. 
Lucia.  Women  and  girls  offer  a  draught  to  passers-by  (5  c).  The  water 
has  a  slightly  medicinal  effect,  and  the  smell  is  disagreeable. 

Newspapers.  The  most  important  are :  the  Giornale  di  Napoli,  publish- 
ed about  noon,  10  c. ;  the  Roma,  at  3  p.  m.,  5  c. ;  in  the  evening  II 
Piccolo  and  the  popular  //  Pungolo,  5  c.  each  (il  pungolo  =  a  goad  for 
driving  cattle).  'E  uscit  'o  pung',  or  'volit  'o  pice'  (the  o  being  strongly 
emphasised),  i.  e.  'e  uscito  lo  Pungolo',  or  'volete  lo  Piccolo'  (lo  being  the 
Neapolitan  form  of  the  article  it)  are  calls  which  resound  everywhere  about 
9  p.  m.). 

National  and  Religious  Festivals.  These  are  inseparably  connected  with 
each  other,  and,  though  inferior  in  magnificence  to  the  church-festivals  which 
used  to  take  place  at  Rome,  they  exhibit  the  most  joyous  and  animated 
phase  of  Neapolitan  life.  The  principal  pilgrimages  take  place  in  summer. 
The  carriages  are  decked  with  wreaths  and  banners  ;  tambourines  and  lungs 
are  plied  most  lustily;  the  horses,  especially  in  the  Chiaja,  are  driven  at 
a  furious  pace.  The  political  changes  of  late  have  deprived  many  of  these 
festivals  of  their  former  significance ,  but  the  more  important  are  still 
extremely  interesting. 

The  Festival  of  the  Vergine  di  Piemgrotta  (p.  81)  was  formerly  the 
greatest  of  all,  but  under  the  present  government  has  lost  its  importance.  — 
A  more  interesting  sight  is  now  presented  by  the  pilgrimages  at  Easter  to 
the  shrine  of  the  Madonna  di  Monte  Vergine  near  Avellino  (p.  169), 
which  are  prolonged  for  three  days ,  when  the  surrounding  population 
assembles  from  all  quarters  in  carriages  and  on  foot,  tricked  out  in  all  the 
magnificence  they  can  command.  The  Neapolitans  then  return  to  the  town 
by  Nola  in  a  gay  procession  which  vies  with  those  of  the  Bacchanalians  of  old. 
On  the  following  day  they  proceed  to  celebrate  the  festival  of  the  Madonna 
dell'  Akco,  6  M.  from  Naples,  at  the  foot  of  Monte  Somma,  from  which  they 


30      Route  4.  NAPLES.  English  Church. 

again  return  in  procession  in  the  most  exuberant  spirits.  —  On  Ascension 
Day  the  festival  of  the  Madonna  of  the  baths  of  Scafati  (p.  156)  takes 
place  near  Pompeii.  —  On  15th  Aug.  is  celebrated  the  festival  of  Capodi- 
moxte.  —  Other  festivities  of  a  more  strictly  ecclesiastical  character 
are  celebrated  at  Christmas,  Easter ,  on  Ascension-day,  on  the  festivals  of 
Corpus  Christi  (Fete  de  Dieu),  St.  Antony,  and  above  all  on  that  of  St. 
Januarius  in  May,  September,   and  December. 

The  Festival  of  the  Constitution  (la  Festa  dello  Statuto),  of  more 
recent  origin,  is  celebrated  throughout  Italy  on  the  first  Sunday  of  June. 
In  the  forenoon  military  parade  in  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito.  In  front  of 
S.  Francesco  mass  is  celebrated ,  accompanied  by  the  thunder  of  the 
guns  from  the  vessels  of  war  and  the  harbour-batteries.  Concerts  are  given 
at  different  places  in  the  evening,  and  fireworks  are  displayed,  especially 
at  the  Villa.     The  Garibaldi  hymn  invariably  elicits  enthusiastic  applause. 

The  Tombola,  which  is  previously  announced  by  placards,  attracts  a 
large  concourse  of  spectators. 


English  Church  in  the  Str.  S.  Pasquale,  at  the  back  of  the  Str.  di 
Chiaja,  on  the  site  presented  to  the  English  residents  by  Garibaldi  when 
dictator  in  1860;  Service  on  Sundays  at  11  a.  m.  and  3  p.  m.  —  Presbyterian 
Church  (Chiesa  Sco/./.ese)  S.  Cappella  Vecchia ;  Service  on  Sundays  at  11  a.  m. 
and  3.  30  p.  m.,  on  Wednesdays  at  7.  30  p.  m.  —  Italian  Service  of  the 
Waldensian  Church,  Monte  Calvario,  also  on  Sunday  evenings  in  the  Scotch 
church.  —  French  and  German  Protestant  Church,  Str.  Carlo  Poerio,  Piazza 
dei  Martiri. 


Duration  of  Stay  and  Disposition  of  Time. 

With  respect  to  the  duration  of  the  visitor's  stay  it  is  difficult  to 
offer  a  suggestion;  the  taste  and  inclination  of  the  individual  must  here 
more  than  almost  anywhere  else  decide  the  question.  Suffice  it  to  ob- 
serve that  within  a  period  of  ten  days  all  the  most  interesting  points 
may  be  visited,  whilst  many  months  may  lie  delightfully  spent  in  explor- 
ing the  incomparable  beauties  of  the  environs.  Where  time  is  limited, 
it  should  be  devoted  almost  exclusively  to  the  latter,  as  the  town  con- 
tains few  objects  of  interest,  with  the  exception  of  the  Museum  and  one 
or  two  of  the  churches.  Those  to  whom  the  town  is  unbearably  distaste- 
ful should  endeavour  to  obtain  accommodation  in  the  vicinity.  The 
pleasantest  season  at  Naples  is  spring  and  early  summer,  when  the 
freshness  of  the  vegetation  imparts  a  most  fascinating  charm  to  the 
scenery.  March  is  occasionally  a  pleasant  month,  but  winter  should 
never  be  the  season  selected,  for  in  few  places  is  bad  weather  a  greater 
trial  of  patience  than  at  Naples.  In  hot  summers  it  is  the  pleasantest 
of  all  the  Italian  capitals.  About  10  a.m.  a  cool  sea-breeze  generally 
rises,  tempering  the  parched  atmosphere  with  a  grateful  freshness. 

The  Chief  Sights  of  the  city  may  be  seen  hastily  in  3-4  days.  The 
mornings  may  be  devoted  to  the  churches,  the  middle  of  the  day  to  the 
Museum,  and  the  afternoons  to  walks  or  drives  in  the  neighbourhood. 
The  evening  may  then  be  spent  at  the  Villa  Nazionale.  The  following 
are  specially  worthy  of  mention:  — 

Museums  :    Museo  Nazionale  (p.  62)  daily  9-3  o'clock,  admission  1  fr., 

Sundays  and  Thursdays  gratis;  museum  and  church  of  S.Martino  (p.  83), 
with  "view,  9-5,  admission  1  fr.  —  "Catacombs  (p.  47)  daily,  admission  1  fr. 
—  Palaces:  Reale  (p.  40),  Capodimonte  (p.  47),  Fondi  (p.  50),  Santangelo 
(p.  56),  Castel  Nuovo  (p.  42).  —  Churches:  "Cathedral,  best  seen  about 
noon  (p.  58),  :Sta.  Cbiara  (p.  51),  :S.  Domenico  7-11  a.  m.  (p.  53),  'Monto- 
liveto  (p.  50);  :::L'Incoronata,  early  in  the  morning  Ip.  49),  "Cloisters  of 
S.  Severino  (p.  55);  "S.  Giovanni  (p.  57);  S.  Maria  del  Carmine  (p.  44); 
"S.  Lorenzo  (p.  01),  S.  Paolo  Maggiore  (p.  61).  —  Vieirs :  'Camaldoli 
(p.  87 1.  Sant'  Elmo  (p.  84),  Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo  (p.  84);  Villa  Na- 
zionale, in  the  evening  (p.  78). 


History.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      31 

Most  of  the  Excursions  in  the  Environs  (RR.  5-12)  may  be  made 
from  Naples  in  one  day,  but  both  time  and  money  may  often  be  econo- 
mised if  the  traveller  combines  several  of  them  so  as'  to  avoid  the  ne- 
cessity of  returning  to  Naples  every  evening.  Those  who  intend  to 
explore  the  surrounding  scenery  should  therefore  give  up  their  rooms  at 
Naples,  but  leave  behind  them  all  superfluous  luggage  .  in  order  that 
they  may  start  on  their  tour  unfettered.  In  making'  these  excursions  it 
is  generally  advantageous  to  travel  as  a  member  of  a  partv  of  three  or 
four  persons,  by  whom  carriage  and  boat,  fares,  fees,  and  other  expenses 
are  shared.  In  this  case  too  'pension'  charges  may  often  be  stipulated 
for  at  the  hotels  for  a  stay  of  even  one  or  two  days  (6-10  fr.  for  bed. 
breakfast,  dinner,  and  supper). 

A  week  or  a  fortnight  may  be  very  pleasantly  spent  as  follows  :  — 

Pozznoli,  Baiae,  Capo  Miseno  (R..  5} l-l1!-    days. 

Procida  and  Isc/iia  (It.  6) 2 

Ascent  of  Mt.  Vesuvius  (it.  8),  Ilerculanenm  (p.  107).  11  ' 

Pompeii  (R.  9) i|2-l  ,, 

Castellamare,  Sorrento,   Capri  (11.  10) 2-3  ,, 

Amalfi,  Salerno,  Paestum  (R.   11) 2-3  ,, 

Caserta  and  Capua    (pp.  1-1(1) 1  „ 

~6i|2-12i|2days. 

A  visit  to  the  islands,  especially  those  of  Procida  and  Ischia,  should 
not  be  undertaken  in  winter  unless    the  weather  be  calm  and  settled. 

Small  Change  is  even  more  frequently  required  in  the  environs  of 
Naples  than  in  the  city  itself.  Contributions  arc  levied  on  the  traveller 
on  every  possible  occasion,  whether  for  admission  to  a  point  of  view, 
or  for  leave  to  cross  a  field,  or  for  services  rendered.  An  abundant  supply 
of  small  notes  and  copper  should  therefore  be  procured  at  a  money- 
changer's (p.  24)  before  starting. 


History  and  Art. 

The  former  kingdom  of  Naples,  according  to  the  census  of  1st  Jan.  1871, 
contained  7,175,311  inhab.  (including  Benevento),  and  is  divided  into  16 
provinces.  In  ancient  times  it  embraced  the  tribes  of  the  Volsci,  Samnites, 
Oscans,  Campaniaus,  Apvlians,  Lueanians,  Calabrians,  Brullians,  Siculians, 
and  a  number  of  others  of  less  importance,  all  of  whom  were  characterised 
by  the  most  marked  peculiarities  of  language,  custom,  and  political  consti- 
tution. The  Oscan  language ,  the  one  most  generally  spoken ,  predomi- 
nated in  Samnium ,  Campania,  Lucania,  and  Bruttium.  On  the  S.  and 
S.W.  coast,  and  especially  in  Sicily,  Greek  colonists  settled  in  such  num- 
bers that  the  S.  portion  of  the  Italian  peninsula  received  the  name  of 
Magna  Graecia.  After  the  war  against  l'yrrhus,  king  of  Epirus,  in  the 
3rd  cent,  before  Christ,  the  Romans  became  masters  of  the  land,  but  the 
Greek  language  and  customs  continued  to  predominate  until  an  advanced 
period  in  the  Christian  era.  That  this  was  the  case  in  the  time  of  the  early 
emperors  has  been  distinctly  proved  by  the  character  of  the  antiquities  of 
the  excavated  Oscan  towns  of  Hercnlaneum  and  Pompeii.  After  the  fall  of  the 
Western  Empire  this  district  was  occupied  by  Oslrogotlis  and  Lombards, 
then  by  Romans  from  the  E.  Empire,  who  in  their  turn  were  constantly 
harassed  by  Arabian  bands  which  attacked  them  by  sea,  and  who  finally  suc- 
cumbed in  the  11th  cent,  to  the  Xorman  settlers.  The  Hohenstaufen  family 
next  held  the  country  from  1194  to  1254.  In  1265  Charles  of  Anjou  gained 
possession  of  Naples  and  established  his  dominion,  which  was  secured  by  the 
cruel  execution  in  1268  of  Conradin  ,  the  lawful  heir.  His  power,  how- 
ever, having  been  impaired  by  the  Sicilian  Vespers,  30th  May,  1282,  ra- 
pidly declined  in  consequence  of  the  crimes  and  degeneracy  of  the  royal 
family  and  of  disastrous  wars  with  Sicily,  which  was  then  in  possession 
of  the  Arragonese.  Charles  VIII.  of  France,  as  heir  of  the  Anjou  family, 
undertook  a  campaign  against  Naples  and  gained  possession  of  the  king- 
dom in  a  few  days,  but  was  unable  to  retain  it.    His  successor  Louis  XII. 


32      Route  4.  NAPLES.  History. 

allied  himself  with  Ferdinand  the  Catholic  of  Spain  with  a  view  to  con- 
quer Naples,  but  in  consequence  of  dissensions  was  compelled  to  abandon 
his  enterprise  after  the  victory  of  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova  on  the  Liris. 
Naples ,  like  Sicily  and  Sardinia ,  then  yielded  to  the  power  of  Spain, 
which  maintained  her  dominion  till  1713.  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova  was 
the  first  of  the  series  of  Spanish  viceroys ,  many  of  whom  ,  such  as  Don 
I'ldro  de  Toledo  under  Charles  V.  (1532-54) ,  did  much  to  promote 
the  welfare  of  the  country.  The  rule  of  others ,  especially  during 
the  17th  cent.,  was  such  as  to  occasion  universal  distress  and  dissatis- 
faction, a  manifestation  of  which  was  the  insurrection  under  Masaniello 
at  Naples  in  1647.  At  the  peace  of  Utrecht  in  1713  Philip  V.  of  Spain, 
of  the  house  of  Bourbon ,  ceded  Naples  and  Sicily  to  the  house  of 
Hapsburg ,  but  after  prolonged  conflicts  they  reverted  to  his  son  Charles 
in  1734,  under  the  name  of  the  '  Kingdom  of  the  Two  Sicilies\  Notwith- 
standing the  revolution  of  1798-1806,  the  Bourbons  continued  to  reign  at 
Naples,  until  Napoleon  I.  created  his  brother  Joseph  king  of  Naples,  who 
was  succeeded  in  1808  (to  1815)  by  his  brother-in-law  Joachim  Murat.  In 
June,  18J5,  King  Ferdinand,  who  with  the  aid  of  the  English  had  mean- 
while maintained  his  ground  in  Sicily,  returned  to  Naples,  and  in  his 
person  the  Bourbon  dynasty  was  restored.  The  following  October,  Joachim 
Murat  ventured  to  land  at  Pizzo  in  Calabria,  but  was  captured,  tried  by 
court-martial ,  and  shot,  15th  Oct.  1815.  Popular  dissatisfaction ,  however, 
still  continued,  and  in  1820  a  rebellion  broke  out  in  Italy  and  Sicily,  but  it 
was  speedily  quelled  by  the  Austrians  under  Frimont  in  1821,  who  occu- 
pied the  country  till  1827.  King  Ferdinand  I.  was  succeeded  in  1825  by 
his  eldest  son  Francis  I.,  and  the  latter  in  1830  by  Ferdinand  II.,  whose 
reign  was  characterised  by  an  uninterrupted  succession  of  internal  struggles, 
partly  in  Naples  and  partly  in  Sicily,  especially  after  the  year  1848. 
In  the  spring  of  1859,  when  the  war  betwreen  Sardinia  and  Austria  broke 
out  in  N.  Italy,  which  by  the  peace  of  Villafranca  would  have  entirely 
changed  the  internal  condition  of  Italy,  Ferdinand  II.  died,  and  his  son 
Francis  II.  (married  to  the  Princess  Mary  of  Bavaria)  was  compelled  to 
yield  to  the  storm  which  burst  forth  afresh.  On  ilth  May,  1860,  Joseph 
Garibaldi  landed  at  Marsala  with  a  band  of  volunteers,  captured  Palermo 
on  31st  May,  was  appointed  dictator,  crossed  on  19th  Aug.  to  Reggio,  and 
on  7th  Sept.  entered  Naples,  where  he  proclaimed  Victor  Emmanuel  of 
Sardinia  king  of  Italy.  On  1st  Oct.  Francis  II.  was  defeated  at  a  skirm- 
ish on  the  Volturno ,  was  then  besieged  at  Gaeta  from  November  1860 
to  February  1S61  ,  and  at  length  compelled  to  surrender  and  retire  to 
Rome. 

In  a  land,  whose  history,  like  its  volcanic  soil,  has  been  disturbed  by 
a  long  succession  of  internal  struggles,  and  where  so  many  and  so  different 
nations  have  ruled,  repose  and  the  development  of  civilisation  must  neces- 
sarily be  difficult  of  attainment.  The  present  government  has  adopted  a 
wise  course  in  endeavouring  to  raise  the  standard  of  national  education, 
in  energetically  suppressing  the  brigandage  in  the  provinces ,  and  the 
'Camorra1  and  gangs  of  thieves  in  the  city,  and  in  introducing  a  number 
of  reforms  well  adapted  to  ameliorate  the  condition  of  this  degenerate 
nation. 

Dates.  The  following  are  the  most  important  dates  in  the  history 
of  the  Kingdom  of  Naples  (comp.  p.  220). 

I.  Period.  The  Normans,  1042-1194:  1042,  William,  son  of  Tancred  of 
Hauteville,  Comes  Apulia;.  —  1059,  Robert  Guiscard  (i.  e.  'the  Cunning'), 
Dux  Apulise  et  Calabriae.  —  1130,  Roger,  proclaimed  king  after  the  con- 
quest of  Naples    and  Amalfi,    unites    the  whole  of  Lower  Italy  and  Sicily. 

—  1154-66,   William  I.    ('the  Bad').  —   1166—89,  William  II.    ('the  Good'). 

—  1194,  William  III. 

II.  Period.  The  Hohenstaufen ,  1194-1268:  1194,  Henry  VI.  of  Ger- 
many, I.  of  Naples.  —  1197,  Frederick  II.  —  1250,  Conrad.  —  1254,  Manfred. 

—  1268,  Conradin. 

III.  Period.  House  of  Anjou,  1266-1442:  1265,  Charles  I.  of  Anjou. 
From  1282  to  1442,  Sicily  formed  an  independent  kingdom  under  the  house 


History.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       33 

of  Arragon.  —  1285,  Charles  II.,  'the  Lame'.  —  1309,  Robert  'the  Wise'. 
—  1343,  Johanna  I.  (married  Andreas  of  Hungary).  —  1381,  Charles  III. 
of  Durazzo.  —  1386,  Ladislaus.  —  1414,  Johanna  II.  —  1435,  Renato  of 
Anjou,  banished  by  Alphonso  'the  Generous'. 

IV.  Period.  House  of  Arrayon,  1442-1496:  1442,  Alphonso  I.,  'the 
Generous'.  After  his  death  Sicily  and  Naples  were  again  separated.  — 
1458,  Ferdinand  I.  —  1494,  Alphonso  II.  —  1495,  Ferdinand  II.  —  1496, 
Frederick   banished  (d.   1554  at  Tours,    the    last  of  the  House  of  Arragon). 

V.  Period.  Spanish  Viceroiix,  1503-1707.  —  On  7th  July,  1707,  during 
the  Spanish  War  of  Succession,  Count  Daun  marched  into  Naples  and 
established  the  Austrian  supremacy. 

VI.  Period.  Austrian  Viceroys",  1707-1734.  —  Charles  III.  of  Bourbon, 
crowned  at  Palermo  1734,  recognised  by  the  Peace  of  Vienna  1738,  defeats 
the  Austrians  at  Velletri  1744,  finally  recognised  by  the  Peace  of  Aix-la- 
Chapelle  1748.  In  1758  Charles  was  proclaimed  king  of  Spain,  and  resigned 
the  crown  of  Naples  and  Sicily  in  favour  of  his  son. 

VII.  Period.  The  Bourbons,  1734-1860:  1734,  Charles  III.  —  1759, 
Ferdinand  IV.  (regency  during  his  minority  till  1767),  married  Caroline  of 
Austria,  sister  of  Joseph  II.,  but  a  monarch  of  very  different  character  from 
the  latter.  —  23rd  Jan.  1799 ,  the  Repubblica  Partenopea  proclaimed  by 
General  Championnet.  —  14th  June,  1799,  the  French  banished.  Reaction 
of  Cardinal  Ruffo.  —  14th  Jan.  1806 ,  Joseph  Buonaparte  established  by 
Masse'na.  —  15th  July,  1808,  Joachim  Murat,  king  of  Naples.  —  1816,  Ferdi- 
nand assumes  the  title  of  Ferdinand  I.  of  the  Two  Sicilies.  —  1825, 
Francis  I.  —  1830,  Ferdinand  II.  —  1859,  Francis  II.  —  21st  Oct.  1860, 
the  Kingdom  of  Naples  annexed  to  Italy  by  plebiscite. 

The  History  of  the  City  of  Naples  extends  back  to  a  very  remote  age.  The 
origin  and  name  ofthecityare  Greek.  About  the  year  B.C.  1056jEolians  from 
Chalcis  in  Eubcea  founded  the  colony  of  K/rine,  Lat.  Cumae,  on  a  rocky 
eminence  in  the  bay  of  Puteoli,  which  soon  became  a  powerful  and  pros- 
perous commercial  town.  From  Cumse  the  colony  of  Phaleron  or  Par  the - 
nope  (named  after  the  tomb  of  a  Syren  of  that  name,  Plin.  H.  N.  iii.  5) 
appears  to  have  emanated  at  a  very  early  period,  and  to  have  been  at  va- 
rious times  re-inforced  by  immigrants  from  Greece,  who  founded  the  Nea- 
polis  (or  new  city),  whilst  Parthenope,  the  portion  erected  by  the  original 
colonists,  was  named  Palaeopolis  (old  city),  a  distinction  which  was  main- 
tained till  the  conquest  of  Palaeopolis  by  the  Romans,  B.C.  326.  After 
that  period  Naples  remained  faithful  to  Rome,  both  in  the  wars  against 
Pyrrhus  and  against  Hannibal,  and  owing  to  the  beauty  of  its  situation 
it  soon  became  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Roman  magnates.  Lucullus 
possessed  gardens  here  on  the  Posilipo  and  the  hill  of  Pizzofalcone,  where, 
in  A.  D.  476,  Romulus  Augustulus,  the  last  feeble  monarch  of  the  Western 
Empire,  breathed  his  last.  Augustus  frequently  resided  at  Naples,  and 
Virgil  composed  some  of  his  most  beautiful  poetry  here.  The  emperors 
Tiberius,  Claudius,  Nero,  Titus,  and  Hadrian  were  among  the  chief  bene- 
factors of  the  city,  which  continued  to  enjoy  its  municipal  freedom  and 
its  Greek  constitution.  It  suffered  fearfully  during  the  wars  of  the  bar- 
barian immigration.  In  536  it  was  taken  by  storm  by  Belisarius,  and 
again  in  543  by  the  Goths  under  Totilas.  The  city  soon  threw  off  the 
Byzantine  supremacy,  and  under  its  doge  or  'duca'  maintained  its  inde- 
pendence against  the  Lombard  princes,  until  after  a  long  siege  in  1130  it 
at  length  succumbed  to  the  Normans  under  Roger.  P'rederick  II.  founded 
the  university,  and  with  it  the  future  greatness  of  the  city.  It  was  consti- 
tuted the  capital  of  the  kingdom  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou,  and  was  greatly 
extended  by  subsequent  princes,  especially  by  Ferdinand  I.  of  Arragon,  the 
viceroy  Don  Pedro  do  Toledo,  and  Charles  III.  of  Bourbon.  In  comparison 
with  the  other  capitals  of  Europe,  the  population  of  Naples  has  increased 
but  slowly,  while  latterly  it  has  apparently  begun  to  decrease.  There 
were  358,550  inhab.  in  1830,  400,813  in  1840,  416,475  in  1850,  418,968  in 
1860,  and  415,549  only  in  1871.  Since  the  annexation  the  city  has  improv- 
ed considerably,  but  the  eradication  of  the  more  deeply  rooted  evils  must 
necessarily  progress  slowly. 

The  national  characteristic  is   still,   as  it  ever  has   been,   love  of  the 
Baedekek.     Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  3 


34      Route  4.  NAPLES.  Literature. 

pleasure  of  the  moment.  The  Neapolitans  are  at  once  the  most  joyous  and 
the  most  careless,  the  most  indolent  and  the  most  squalid  of  the  human 
race.  Nothing  appears  capable  of  permanently  depressing  the  buoyancy  of 
their  spirits.  If  they  ever  indulge  in  melancholy,  its  duration  is  exceed- 
ingly brief-,  and  accordingly  at  the  present  day  not  a  trace  is  to  be  ob- 
served of  the  political  tempest  which  so  long  cast  a  gloom  over  their  city. 

Literature  began  feebly  to  develop  itself  under  Frederick  II.  ofHohen- 
staufen ,  but  was  speedily  nipped  in  the  bud.  With  the  exception  of 
Ciullo  d'Alcamo,  a  poet  of  some  reputation  at  the  court  of  Frederick  II.  at 
Palermo  (eomp.  p.  223),  not  a  single  name  deserves  mention.  The  same  monarch 
was  also  a  patron  of  architecture  and  music.  In  the  science  of  medicine  the 
school  founded  by  the  Normans  at  Salerno  in  1150  afterwards  attained 
considerable  importance.  During  many  subsequent  centuries  the  land  was 
overshadowed  by  profound  intellectual  darkness,  illumined  at  rare  inter- 
vals by  a  few  illustrious  names ,  such  as  Thomas  Aquinas,  the  ijhiloso- 
phers  Giordano  Bruno,  Campanella,  Giambaltista  Vico,  the  naturalist  Porta, 
and  the  historians  Pietro  Giannone  (Storia  di  Napoli,  down  to  the  Spanish 
war   of  succession)    and    Coltetta  (Storia  del  Keame  di  Napoli,  1734-1825). 

In  Art  the  attainments  of  the  Neapolitans  have  been  scarcely  less 
insignificant.  To  its  high  state  of  perfection  in  ancient  times  Psestum,  and, 
above  all,  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii  bear  ample  testimony.  The  mediaeval 
Norman  period,  under  Arabian  and  Byzantine  influence,  has  produced  works 
of  architecture  and  sculpture  which  are  by  no  means  destitute  of  their  peculiar 
merit.  The  appearance  of  Giotto  exercised  a  salutary  influence  on  the  pictorial 
art  at  Naples  in  the  13th  and  14th  centuries  ;  but  this  was  a  mere  external 
impulse,  unproductive  of  any  independent  development,  so  that  a  'Neapo- 
litan School'  can  hardly  be  said  ever  to  have  existed,  except  perhaps 
during  the  period  of  the  decline  of  art.  During  the  loth  cent,  the  realism 
of  the  Flemish  School  of  the  Van  Eycks  produced  a  marked  effect  on 
Neapolitan  art  ( Zingaro,  Silv.  de'  Buoni,  etc.).  In  the  16th  cent.  Raphael's 
influence  extended  even  to  Naples,  as  is  apparent  from  the  works  of 
Andrea  Sabbatini  of  Salerno  (1480-1545)  among  others.  In  the  17th  cent, 
the  Neapolitan  school  of  painting  (Corenzio,  Giuseppe  Ribera  or  Spagno- 
letto,  and  Caracciolo),  with  its  'Naturalist'  style,  presented  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  classical  tendency  of  Gruido  Reni  and  Domenichino.  The 
school  of  Spagnoletto  produced  An iello  Falcone,  the  painter  of  battle-scenes, 
and  the  talented  landscape  painter  Salvator  Rosa  (1615-73).  Then  follow  the 
mannerists  Luca  Giordano,  Francesco  Solimena,  etc. 

The  following  list  comprises  the  most  distinguished  artists  whom 
Naples  has  produced. 

Painters.  1230-1310,  Tommaso  degli  Stefani.  1382-1455,  Antonio 
Solario,  surnamed  Lo  Zingaro  ,  a  semi-mythical  personage.  1430-88,  Simone 
Papa,  the  Elder.  15th  cent.,  Silvestro  de1  Buoni  and  Antonio  oVAviato. 
1480-1545,  Andrea  Sabbatini,  or  da  Salerno.  16th  cent.,  Pietro  Negroni, 
Francesco  Santafede  ,  and  Fabrizio,  son  of  the  latter.  1568-1640,  Giuseppe 
Cesuri,  surnamed  Cavaliere  d\lrpino.~  1558-1643,  Belisario  Corenzio. 
1580-1641,  Giov.  Bat.  Caracciolo.  1593-1656,  Giuseppe  Ribera,  surnamed 
Lo  Spagnoletto.  1585-1656,  Massimo  Slanzioni.  1598-1670,  Andrea  Vaccaro. 
1UU0-65,  Aniello  Falcone.  1615-73,  Salvator  Rosa.  1613-99,  Mattia  Preti, 
surnamed  Calabrese.  1632  - 1705  ,  Luca  Giordano ,  surnamed  Fa  Presto. 
1657-1747,  Francesco  Solimena. 

Architects  and  Sculptors.  Afasuccio  the  Elder  in  the  13th,  and  the 
Younger  in  the  14th  cent,  are  usually  regarded  as  the  founders  of  the 
plastic  art,  but  their  history  is  involved  in  obscurity.  15th  cent.,  Antonio 
Bamboccio  and  Audita  Ciccioue.  1478-1559,  Giovanni  Aferliano,  generally 
named  da  Nola,  after  the  place  of  his  birth.     1700-73,  Luiyi   Vanvitelli. 

In  Music  Naples  incontestably  deserves  the  credit  of  having  brought 
the  secular  and  operatic  styles  to  a  high  state  of  perfection.  The  modern 
opera  originated  with  Alexxamlro  Scarlatti  (1658-1725).  He  was  succeeded 
by  Nircold  Porjiora  (1687-1767)  and  Leonardo  Leo  (1694-1743);  the  latter 
was  the  first  master  who  made  counterpoint  his  foundation,  a  step  which 
was  followed  up  by  Francesco  Durante  ( 1693- 1755) ,  director  of  the  Conser- 
vatory,   and  his  pupils  Leonardo    Vinci,  Giovanni  Battista  Pergolese  (1710- 


Art.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      35 

36,  the  young  and  talented  originator  of  the  Stabat  Mater),  JVi<-coli  I'icrini, 
Sacchini,  Jomelli,  etc.  Naples  has  since  enjoyed  the  reputation  of  being 
the  first  school  of  music  in  the  world.  In  the  18th  cent,  she  gave  hirth 
to  Domenico  Cimarosa  and  Giovanni  Faesiello ,  and  to  the  first  composers 
of  great  operas,  Trilta,  Quglielmi,  Fioravanti,  and  the  grave  Xkcolb  Zinga- 
relli  (1752-1837),  director  of  the  Conservatorio,  all  of  whom  had  been  more 
or  less  stimulated  by  the  powerful  influence  of  Mozart  and  Gluck.  The 
most  celebrated  names  of  the  19th  cent,  are  Rossini  (d.  1868),  Bellini 
(d.  1835),  and  Mercadante  (A.  1871). 

'  Vedi  Napoli  e  poi  mori ! ' 

Naples  is  the  most  populous  town  in  Italy  (41o,  549  inhab.f), 
and  occupies  one  of  the  most  beautiful  situations  in  the  world.  The 
magnificent  bay  has  from  the  most  ancient  times  been  the  object 
of  enthusiastic  admiration,  and  it  is  annually  visited  by  thousands 
of  strangers  in  quest  of  enjoyment  or  health.  In  historical  interest 
this  part  of  the  Italian  peninsula  is  singularly  deficient.  Nature,  it 
would  appear,  has  so  bountifully  lavished  her  gifts  on  this  favoured 
spot,  that  the  energy  and  strength  of  the  most  powerful  nations 
have  invariably  succumbed  to  its  alluring  influence.  Greeks,  Oscans, 
Romans,  Goths,  Byzantines,  Normans,  Germans,  and  Spaniards  have 
in  succession  been  masters  of  the  place ;  yet  it  has  rarely  attained 
even  a  transient  reputation  in  the  annals  of  politics,  art,  or  lite- 
rature. Those  who  have  recognised  in  Florence  the  focus  of  the 
Italian  Renaissance,  in  Rome  the  metropolis  of  a  bygone  age,  in 
Venice  and  Genoa,  and  even  in  Pisa  and  Siena,  the  splendour 
of  medieval  republics ,  cannot  but  experience  a  feeling  of 
disappointment  on  beholding  Naples.  The  dearth  of  handsome 
buildings  and  indigenous  works  of  art  creates  a  void,  for  which 
Herculaneum  and  Pompeii  with  their  matchless  treasures  of 
antiquity  alone  in  some  measure  compensate.  The  domestic 
architecture  of  Naples ,  the  narrow,  dingy  streets ,  the  high  and 
narrow  houses ,  with  their  balconies  in  front  of  every  window, 
and  their  flat  roofs ,  are  far  from  attractive.  The  never-ceasing 
noise ,  the  interminable  clatter  of  wheels  at  all  hours  of  the  day 
and  night,  the  cracking  of  whips,  braying  of  donkeys,  and  shrill 
shouting  of  hawkers,  render  Naples  a  most  distasteful  place,  espe- 
cially to  those  whose  stay  is  limited.  To  these  annoyances 
are  added  the  insolent  importunities  of  drivers,  guides,  street- 
vendors  ,  beggars ,  etc.  ,  who  often  combine  the  most  cringing 
manners  with  the  grossest  attempts  at  extortion.  In  justice. 
however,  be  it  said,  that  of  late  years  there  has  been  some  slight 
improvement  in  these  matters. 


t  According  to  the  census  of  1871  the  population  including  the 
suburbs  was  448,  335  souls.  The  ofiicial  statistics  are  not  framed  on  a 
topographical,  but  on  a  political  and  administrative  basis.  (Comp.  p.  vi.) 
The  province  of  Naples  is  about  420  sq.  M.  in  area,  and  in  1871  contained 
a  population  of  907,752,  /'.  <'.  exclusive  of  the  city,  about  lOoo  persons 
per  English  square  mile. 

3* 


3(3      Route  i.  NAPLES.  Site. 

Naples,  situated  in  40"  52'  N.  latitude,  lies  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  bay,  which  extends  for  about  35  M.  from  the  Capo  di  Mi- 
seno,  its  N.W.  boundary,  to  the  Punta  della  CampaneLla,  its  S.E. 
limit,  and  is  separated  from  the  open  sea  by  the  islands  of 
Procida  and  Ischia  towards  the  N.,  and  Capri  towards  the  S.  The 
S.E.  side  of  the  bay  is  formed  by  the  Monte  Santangelo,  a  spur 
of  the  Apennines,  5000  ft.  in  height,  which  is  connected  with 
the  island  of  Capri  by  a  reef  of  rock.  At  its  base  lie  the  vil- 
lages of  Massa  Lubrense,  Sorrento,  Vico  Equense,  and  Castel- 
lamare,  near  the  ancient  Stabiae  which  was  overwhelmed  by 
an  eruption.  The  other  sides  of  the  bay  are  bounded  by  the 
Campanian  plain,  the  surface  of  which  has  undergone  numerous 
changes  in  consequence  of  volcanic  agency.  In  the  middle  of  the 
plain  between  the  chain  of  Santangelo  and  the  hilly  district  N.  of 
Naples  rises  Mount  Vesuvius ,  dividing  it  into  two  distinct  dis- 
tricts, the  southern  of  which  is  intersected  by  the  river  Sarno,  and 
the  northern  by  the  Sebeto.  The  plain,  as  well  as  the  slopes  of 
Vesuvius  itself,  is  luxuriantly  fertile,  and  one  of  the  most  densely 
peopled  districts  in  the  world.  In  the  direction  of  Castellamare 
and  beyond  the  Sarno  are  situated  the  Ruins  of  Pompeii,  and 
among  numerous  other  villages,  the  populous  Torre  dell'  An- 
nunziata,  Torre  del  Greco,  Resina  on  the  site  of  the  ruined  Her- 
culaneum,  and  Portici.  The  N.W.  side  of  the  bay  has  formally 
ages  been  the  scene  of  powerful  volcanic  agency.  Naples,  which 
stretches  E.  towards  the  plain,  nearly  to  the  Sebeto,  is  to  a  great 
extent  situated  on  a  slight  volcanic  eminence.  This  tract  is  iden- 
tical with  the  Campi  Phlegraei,  so  frequently  mentioned  by  the 
ancients,  which  extended  from  Naples  to  Cumse.  They  commence 
with  the  hills  of  the  Madonna  del  Pianto,  Capodichino,  and 
Miradois  towards  the  E.,  and  also  embrace  those  of  Capodimonte, 
Scutillo,  and  S.  Eremo  as  far  as  Pizzofalcone  and  Castello  dell'  Ovo, 
and  beyond  these  extend  to  the  Vomero  and  the  eminence  of  Posilipo. 
Tufa,  mingled  with  fragments  of  lava,  trachyte,  pumice-stone,  etc., 
is  observed  in  all  directions.  Mineral  springs  and  gaseous  exhal- 
ations testify  to  the  volcanic  nature  of  the  district.  The  chain  of 
Posilipo,  separating  the  bay  from  that  of  Pozzuoli,  is  united  by  a 
subaqueous  ridge  with  the  small  island  of  Nisida,  an  extinct  crater. 
Farther  inland  are  situated  the  craters  of  Lago  d'  Agnano,  Astroni, 
and  Solfatara.  On  a  promontory  lies  the  town  of  Pozzuoli;  farther 
along  the  coast  is  the  volcanic  M.  Nuovo ,  then  the  Lago 
Lucrino  with  the  ruins  of  Baiae,  behind  which  is  the  crater  of 
Lago  Averno  and  the  site  of  ancient  Cumae.  Lastly,  towards  the 
S.,  are  the  Lago  Fusaro  and  the  hill  of  Misenum,  with  the  Mare 
Morto  and  Porto  Miseno.  This  range  is  connected  with  the 
pre-eminently  volcanic  islands  of  Procida,  Vivara,  and  the  more 
important  Ischia  with  the  extinct  volcano  Epomeo. 

The  City  lies  at  the  base  and  on  the  slopes  of  several  slight 


Site.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       37 

hills,  rising  from  the  sea  in  amphitheatre-like  form.  It  is  divided 
into  two  unequal  parts  by  the  heights  of  Capodimonte,  S.  Elmo,  and 
Pizzofalcone ,  which  terminate  in  the  narrow  ridge  surmounted  by 
the  Castello  dell'Ovo.  To  the  S.  E.  of  Capodimonte,  and  eastwards  as 
far  as  the  Sebeto,  lies  the  greater  and  most  ancient  part  of  Naples, 
now  the  business  quarter,  intersected  from  N.  to  S.  by  the  Toledo 
(now  Via  di  Roma),  the  rmiin  street,  which  is  continued  to- 
wards the  N.  by  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Capodimonte.  The  most 
important  streets  in  this  quarter  are  the  three  which  intersect  the 
Toledo  —  the  Strada  S.  Trinita  with  its  prolongation  S.  Biagio  de! 
Librai,  the  Strada  dei  Tribunali,  and  the  Strada  Foria,  the  conti- 
nuation of  the  Piazza  Cavour ;  then  the  new  Strada  del  Duomo,  to 
the  E.  of  the  Toledo  and  nearly  parallel  with  it,  which  is  to  be 
extended  down  to  the  coast;  and  lastly  several  broad  new  streets 
recently  constructed  on  the  K.  side  of  the  town.  The  only  impor- 
tant open  spaces  are  the  Piazza  del  1'lebiscito  and  the  Piazza  del 
Municipio ,  from  which  last  diverges  the  broad  Strada  Medina. 
From  the  Piazza  del  Municipio  the  Strada  del  Molo  leads  us  to  the 
harbour,  along  which  a  handsome  quay,  called  the  Strada  del  Pi- 
liero  and  the  Strada  Nuona,  runs  eastwards  as  far  as  the  Castel  del 
Carmine.  Near  the  castle  is  the  Piazza  del  Mercato.  —  The 
western  and  more  modern  quarter  of  the  city  is  much  smaller  than 
the  eastern  ,  and  is  preferred  to  it  by  visitors  owing  to  the  su- 
periority of  its  situation,  air,  and  views.  At  the  base  of  the  hill  of 
Posilipo,  and  skirting  the  coast,  runs  the  broad  Ririera  di  Chiaja, 
connected  with  the  Toledo  by  means  of  the  busy  Strada  di  Chiaja. 
and  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  gardens  of  the  Villa  Nazionale. 
Adjoining  the  Chiaja  on  the  \V.  are  the  Piedigrotta  and  Mergellina 
quarters,  beyond  which  aTe  situated  numerous  charming  villas. 
To  this  western  part  of  the  city  belongs  also  the  new  Corso  Vittorio 
Emanuele,  a  street  nearly  2'/.2  M.  in  length,  which  leads  from  the 
Strada  dell'  Infrascata  (a  street  beginning  opposite  the  museum  ), 
passes  below  the  Castel  S.  Elmo,  skirts  the  hill  of  Posilipo  about 
halfway  up,  and  gradually  descends  in  windings  to  the  W.  end  of 
the  Riviera  di  Chiaja. 

The  length  of  Naples  from  the  Mergellina  to  the  barracks  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Sebeto  is  3  M.,  the  breadth  from  Capodimonte 
to  the  Castel  dell'  Ovo  2  M.  It  contains  upwards  of  1300  streets 
and  lanes,  provided  with  gas  in  1S4-0,  and  well  paved,  except 
as  regards  accommodation  for  foot-passengers.  The  squares  are 
called  Larghi,  but  the  more  modern  name  -Piazza'  has  recently 
been  introduced;  the  principal  streets  are  called  Strade,  or  now 
Vie;  the  cross-streets  Virhi ;  the  narrow  lanes  ascending  the  hills, 
and  generally  inaccessible  to  carriages,  Calate  or  Salite,  or  when 
so  precipitous  as  to  require  steps,    (iradoni. 

The  city  itself  can  boast  of  but  few  Gneco-Ronian  antiquities, 
but  (  besides  the  churches)  it  possesses  five  forts  ( Castello  S.  Elmo, 


38       Route  4.  NAPLES.  Castel  dell'  Ovo. 

dell'  Ovo,  Nuovo,  del  Carmine,  Capuano)  and  two  gates  (Porta  del 
Carmine  and  Capuana)  of  mediaeval  construction.  The  town  has 
on  the  whole  a  modern  appearance.  The  population  is  densely 
crowded,  and  it  is  now  the  anxious  endeavour  of  the  autho- 
rities to  remedy  the  consequent  physical  and  social  evils  by  the 
construction  of  new  and  commodious  dwellings. 

Our  description  of  the  sights  is  arranged  in  topographical 
order,   and  is  divided  as  follows  :   ■ — 

1.  The  Side  of  the  City  next  the  Sea,  from  the  Largo  della  Vit- 
toria  (PI.  D,  6)  eastwards,  round  the  Pizzofalcone,  by 
S.  Lucia,  the  Piazza  delPlebiscito,  and  the  Piazza  del  Muni- 
cipio,  and  along  the  quay  to  the  IS.  E.  angle  of  the  town. 

2.  The  Toledo,  with  its  side-streets,  and  the  Capodimonte. 

3.  The  Old  Town  ,  to  the  E.  of  the  Toledo  ,  and  between  that 
street  and  the  harbour. 

4.  The  Museum. 

5.  The  Modern  Quarters  (Chiaja,  Villa,  and  Corso  Vittorio 
Emanuele)  and  the  Castel  S.  Elmo. 

The  traveller  may  again  be  reminded  here  that,  if  his  time  is 
limited,  he  had  better  disregard  most  of  the  sights  within  the  town. 

I.     Side  of  the  City  next  the  Sea,  to  the  E.  of 
Pizzofalcone. 

The  Largo  della  Vittobja  (PL  D,  6),  an  open  space  adorned 
with  trees  and  a  fountain,  and  recently  enlarged  on  the  side  next 
the  sea,  in  front  of  the  Villa  Nazionale,  may  be  regarded  as  the 
central  point  of  the  strangers'  quarter.  A  handsome  quay  con- 
structed within  the  last  few  years,  and  flanked  by  a  number  of  new 
buildings,  extends  hence  towards  the  E.  along  the  coast.  On  our 
left  rises  the  Pizzofalcone,  a  spur  of  the  hill  of  S.  Elmo,  entirely 
covered  with  buildings  and  walls,  around  the  base  of  which  runs 
the  Strada  Chiatamone,  a  street  parallel  with  the  quay  and  a  little 
above  it ,   with  a  number  of  handsome  hotels  and  other  buildings. 

From  the  S.  end  of  the  Pizzofalcone  runs  out  an  embankment 
and  bridge,  connecting  it  with  a  small  rocky  island,  the  Megaris 
of  Pliny.  On  this  island  rises  the  Castello  dell'  Ovo  (PI.  E,  7), 
which  in  its  present  form  dates  from  the  time  of  the  viceroy  Don 
Pedro  de  Toledo  ( 1532-53).     The  name  is  due  to  its  oval  shape. 

William  I.  erected  the  fort  in  1154,  and  Frederick  II.  entrusted  the 
construction  of  the  edifice  to  Niccolb  Pisano.  Charles  I.  enlarged  the  castle 
and  frequently  resided  there.  Robert  the  Wise  (1309)  caused  the  chapel 
to  be  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Giotto,  and  superintended  the  work  in 
person,  hut  of  these  no  trace  is  left.  Here  Charles  III.  of  Durazzo  (1381) 
kept  (Jueen  Johanna  I.  prisoner,  and  was  himself  besieged.  In  1495  Charles 
VIII.  of  Franco  captured  the  castle,  and  under  Ferdinand  II.  it  was 
dismantled.     It  is  now  chiefly  Tised  as  a  prison. 

Farther  on  we  reach  S.  Lucia  (PI.  E,  7,  6),  once  a  dirty  street, 
but  enlarged  and  converted  into  a  broad  and  pleasant  quay  since 


S.  Francesco  di  Paola.        NAPLES.  4.  Route.       39 

1846.  Scones  of  Neapolitan  life  may  be  witnessed  here  in  per- 
fection. The  female  members  of  the  community  are  seen  working 
in  the  open  air,  going  through  their  toilette,  and  performing 
various  unpleasing  acts  of  attention  to  their  children  ,  regardless 
of  the  public  gaze.  In  warm  weather  the  children  often  run  about 
quite  naked.  On  the  side  next  the  sea  the  oyster-stalls  are 
established,  where  sea-urchins,  crabs,  and  other  delicacies,  so 
expressively  called  frutti  di  mare  by  the  Neapolitans,  are  also 
sold.  The  focus  of  this  animated  scene,  however,  is  on  the 
Promontory  below,  which  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  and  is 
adorned  with  a  *  fountain  with  figures  by  Domenico  d'Auria  and 
Giovanni  da  Nola.  On  fine  summer  evenings ,  especially  on 
Sundays,  this  spot  is  densely  crowded,  and  presents  a  highly 
characteristic  picture  of  Neapolitan  life.  There  is  also  a  favourite 
sulphureous  spring  here  (p.  29).  Adjoining  the  promontory  is 
the  small  harbour  whence  the  steamers  for  Capri  start  (p.  150). 

At  the  end  of  S.  Lucia  we  ascend  to  the  left  by  the  Strada 
del  Gigantk,  a  street  named  after  an  ancient  colossal  statue  of 
Jupiter  once  placed  here.  To  the  right,  farther  on,  we  look  down 
on  the  stores  of  cannon  and  ammunition  in  the  courts  of  the 
arsenal  (p.  43).  In  a  straight  direction  we  observe  Fort  S.  Elmo, 
rising  above  the  town ,  and  we  soon  reach  the  finest  square  in 
Naples. 

This  is  the  Largo  del  Palazzo  Reale ,  or  the  Piazza  del  Plebis- 
cite as  it  has  been  called  since  1860,  which  assumed  its  present 
form  in  1810,  after  the  demolition  of  four  monasteries.  On  the 
right  is  the  Royal  Palace,  opposite  to  us  is  the  Foresteria,  now  the 
Prefettura  di  Napoli  (PI.  17),  with  shops  in  part  of  the  ground- 
floor;  on  the  W.  side,  which  forms  a  semicircle,  is  the  church 
of  <S.  Francesco  with  its  dome  and  arcades ;  on  the  fourth  side  is 
the  Commandant's  Residence  (PI.  77),  formerly  the  palace  of  the 
prince  of  Salerno,  where  travellers  obtain  a  permesso  to  visit  the 
Castol  S.  F.lmo  on  showing  their  passports  or  visiting-cards.  (As- 
cend two  flights  of  stairs  on  the  left  side  of  the  court,  and  turn  to 
the  right  at  the  top;  best  hours  between  10  and  11  or  after  11 
o'clock.  )  In  front  of  the  church  of  S.  Francesco  are  two 
Equestrian  Statues  of  Neapolitan  kings:  on  the  right  Charles  111., 
on  the  left  Ferdinand  I.  of  Bourbon ;  the  two  horses  and  the 
statue  of  Charles  are  by  ('anova,  that  of  Ferdinand,  in  a  Roman 
toga,   by   Cal). 

S.  Francesco  di  Paola  (PI.  48).  an  imitation  of  the  Pantheon 
at  Rome,  was  constructed  by  Ferdinand  I.  from  designs  of  Bianchi 
di  Lugano  in  1817-31. 

The  Ionic  vestibule  is  supported  by  six  columns  and  two  buttresses. 
The  Interior  (open  early  in  the  morning)  contains  thirty  Corinthian  columns 
of  marble  from  Mondragone,  which  support  the  dome.  The  high  altar,  trans- 
ferred hither  from  the  church  of  the  Apostles,  is  entirely  inlaid  with  jasper 
and  lapis  lazuli;  the  two  pillars  at  the  sides  are  of  rare  Egyptian  breccia  from 


40      Route!.  NAPLES.  Palazzo  ReaU. 

S.  Severino.  The  tribune  above  is  for  the  use  of  the  royal  family.  The  statues 
and  pictures  are  by  modern  masters.  To  the  1.  of  the  entrance  :  St.  Athanasius 
bv  Angelo  Salaro;  Heath  of  Joseph,  Camillo  Gverra  of  Naples ;  St.  Augustin, 
a'  statue  by  Tommaso  Arnaiid  of  Naples;  Madonna  della  Concezione, 
Casjtaro  La'ndi;  St.  31  ark,  a  statue  by  Fabris  of  Venice;  St.  Nicholas, 
Xatale  Carta  of  Sicily:  St.  John,  Tenerani.  In  the  choir:  St.  Francis  di 
l'aola  resuscitating  a  youth,  Camuccmi;  St.  Matthew,  a  statue  by  Finelli; 
Last  Communion  of  St.  Francis  of  Castile,  Pietro  Benvemiii  of  Florence; 
St.  Luke,  a  statue  by  Antonio  fall  of  Sicily;  St.  Ambrose,  by  Tito  Angelini 
of  Naples;  Death  of  St.  Andrea  da  Avellino,  Tommaso  rlc  Yiro;  St.  Chry- 
sostom,  a  statue  by  Gennaro  Gali. 

The  Palazzo  Reale  (PI.  '21),  or  royal  palace,  designed  by 
the  Roman  Domenirn  Fontana,  was  begun  in  1600  under  the 
viceroy  Count  de  Lemos ,  burned  down  in  1837,  and  restored 
between  that  year  and  18il.  The  facade,  18:1  yds.  ft.  in  length, 
exhibits  in  its  three  stories  the  Doric  and  Ionic  styles  combin- 
ed ;  most  of  the  arches  of  the  basement ,  however ,  are  built 
up  for  the  sake  of  increasing  the  strength  of  the  building. 

The  magnificent  staircase  in  the  interior,  adorned  at  the  foot 
with  statues  of  the  Ebro  and  Tagus,  was  constructed  in  16;>1. 
The  state-rooms  contain  numerous  modern  pictures. 

Interior.  Visitors  apply  to  the  porter  (50  c),  who  conducts  them  to 
the  office  of  the  Intendant  in  the  palace.  Here  they  receive  (gratis)  a 
permesso  for  six  persons,  which  is  available  also  for  the  palaces  of  Capodi- 
monte,  Caserta,  Favorita,  Quisisana,  and  the  garden  of  Astroni,  and  must 
be  shown  at  each  place  to  the  porter.     Attendant's  fee  1  fr. 

The  visitor  is  first  conducted  to  the  ''Garden  Terrace,  which  affords 
a  tine  view  of  the  harbour  and  the  arsenal  immediately  below.  In  the 
centre  is  a  handsome  marble  table.  —  The  pictures  in  the  different  rooms 
are  for  the  most  part  of  no  great  artistic  value,  being  chiefly  by  modern 
Neapolitan  masters.  —  The  magnificent  ''Grand  Staircase*  constructed  en- 
tirely of  white  marble,  and  adorned  with  reliefs  and  statues,  dates  from 
1051.  —  On  the  side  towards  the  piazza  are  situated  a  small  theatre  and 
a  superb  Dining  Hoom,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  placed  an  ornamental 
cradle  presented  by  the  city  of  Naples  to  the  crown-princess  Margaret.  — 
lieyond  these,  in  the  second  room:  L.  Caracei.  John  the  Baptist;  Cara- 
vaggio,  Christ  in  the  Temple;  Schidone,  Carita.  —  The  "Throne  Boom  is 
gorgeously  furnished  with  crimson  velvet  embroidered  with  gold,  the 
embroidery  having  been  executed  at  the  extensive  poor-house  in  1818. 
Above  are  gilded  tigiires  in  relief,  representing  the  different  provinces  of 
the  kingdom.  —  The  following  rooms  contain  large  porcelain  vases  from 
Sevres  and  from  the  former  manufactory  at  Capodimonte.  Among  the 
pictures  are:  —  Podesti,  Leonardo  da  Vinci  presenting  'The  Last  Supper' 
to  the  donors;  -Van  JJycl ': ,  Portrait;  Netherlands  School,  Portrait  of  a 
man;  Quintin Massys ,  Usurer;  JJomenichino  ('•'),  Cardinal;  -Netherlands 
School,  Portrait  of  an  old  woman. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  palace,  which  is  connected  here  by  a  wing 
with  the  Theatre  of  S.  Carlo,  is  a  small  garden  enclosed  by  a 
railing,  containing  a  Statue  of  Italia,  erected  in  1SI14  in  comme- 
moration of  the  plebiscite  of  21st  Oct.  1860,  which  added  the 
kingdom  of  Naples  to  the  dominions  of  Victor  Emmanuel. 

The  small  piazza  which  adjoins  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscite  here 
is  named  Largo  S.  Ferdinand//  after  the  opposite  church.  This  is 
the  startitig  point  of  several  of  the  chief  omnibus  lines,  and  there 
is  also  a  large  cab-stand  here.     To  the  left  diverge   the  Strada 


Piazza  del  Municipio.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      41 

di  Cliiaja  and  tlie  Toledo,  the  principal  street  in  Naples  (conrn. 
p.  45). 

We  now  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Strada  S.  Carlo,  in  which 
rises  the  principal  facade  of  the  Teatro  San  Carlo  (PI.  26), 
founded  by  Charles  III.  in  1737,  and  erected  by  the  Neapolitan 
architect  Anyelo  Carasale  from  designs  by  the  Sicilian  (iionmiii 
Medrano.  The  interior  was  destroyed  by  Are  in  1816,  but  has 
been  restored  in  harmony  with  the  original  plan.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest  opera-houses  in  Italy,  and  the  choicest  works  of  the 
best  Italian  composers  are  admirably  performed  here.  Many  of 
the  celebrated  compositions  of  Rossini,  Bellini,  Donizetti,  and 
Mercadante  were  performed  in  this  theatre  for  the  first  time. 
The  chief  facade,  resting  on  an  arcade,  and  surmounted  by  a 
series  of  columns,  and  the  side  next  the  Largo  S.  Ferdinando 
are  decorated  with  bas-reliefs.  The  spaces  under  the  arches 
are  occupied  by  public  writers,  ready  at  a  moment's  notice  to 
commit  to  paper  the  pleading  of  the  lover  or  the  expostulation 
of  the  rreditor. 

Farther  to  the  right  is  the  small  garden  belonging  to  the  palace, 
at  the  entrance  of  which  are  two  Horse-tamers  by  Baron  Clodt 
of  St.  Petersburg,  presented  by  the  Kmp.  Nicholas  of  Russia, 
and  replicas  of  those  in  front  of  the  palace  at  Berlin. 

We  next  reach  the  long  Piazza  del  Municipio,  adorned  with 
pleasant  grounds,  formerly  named  Largo  del  Castello.  At  the 
end  of  it,  to  the  left,  is  situated  the  handsome  Municipio 
(PI.  20),  or  town  hall,  formerly  the  Palazzo  de'  Minister/, 
erected  in  1819-2;")  from  designs  by  Luigi  and  Stefano  Unsse. 
On  the  principal  entrance  are  inscribed  the  names  of  the 
Neapolitans  who  were  executed  for  sedition  under  the  Bourbon 
regime.  Jn  the  gateway  are  the  statues  of  the  kings  Roger  and 
Frederick  II.  From  this  point  a  passage,  occupied  by  stalls  of 
various  wares,  leads  through,  under  the  flight  of  steps,  to  the 
Toledo  ;  within  it ,  to  the  right ,  is  the  entrance  to  the  Kxchavye. 
In  the  N.  \V.  corner  of  the  piazza,  immediately  adjoining  the 
Municipio,  rises  the  recently  restored  church  of  S.  Giacomo 
degli  Spagnuoli  (PI.  52),  erected  in  1540  by  Don  Pedro  de 
Toledo. 

Interior.  We  enter  by  a  door  adjacent  to  the  gate  of  the  Municipio 
and  ascend  the  stairs.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance:  "Andrea  del  ttarto, 
Holy  Family.  3rd  Chapel  on  the  left:  (linn  Bernardo  Lama,  descent 
from  the  Cross;  also  pictures  hy  Bernardino  Siciliano,  Marro  da  ftienn, 
and  others.  At  the  hack  of  the  high  altar  is  the  sumptuous  'Tomb  of 
Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  (d.  1553),  the  master-piece  of  (Jioratnii  da  Aula, 
adorned  with  statues  of  the  cardinal  virtues,  bas-reliefs  of  the  achieve- 
ments of  the  viceroy,  and  his  statue  in  a  kneeling  posture,  with  that  of 
his  wife.  Behind  this  tomb  is  the  monument  of  Hans  Walther  von 
Iliernheim,  counsellor  and  general  of  Charles  V.  and  Philip  II.  (d.  15571, 
with  an  inscription  in  German  and  Latin. 

On  the  opposite  side  rises  the  Castel  Nnovo  (see  below). 
As    we    turn    round    to    the    right    towards   the    Strada    del  Molo, 


42      Route  4.  NAPLKS.  Castel  Nuovo. 

the  broad  Stkada  Mfhina  (PI.  K,  5)  opens  to  the  left.  At  the  be- 
ginning of  it  rises  the  Fontana  Medina  (PI.  8),  erected  from  the 
designs  of  Domenico  d'Auria  and  Fansaga  by  the  viceroy,  Duke 
of  Medina  Celi  (1695),  and  considered  the  finest  fountain  in 
Naples.  It  consists  of  a  large  basin,  supported  by  four  satyrs;  in 
the  centre  Neptune  with  his  trident,  surrounded  by  jets  of  water; 
at  the  base  four  Tritons  on  sea-horses,  with  water-spouting  lions 
and  other  animals.  —  The  neighbouring  church  of  the  Incoronata, 
and  a  walk  thence  into  the  interior  of  the  city,  see  p.  48  et  seq. 

Following  the  Strada  del  Molo  towards  the  harbour ,  we 
observe  on  the  left  the  Teatro  del  Fondo  (or  Mercadante,  PI.  29) 
and  various  show -booths,  with  tempting  representations  on 
canvas  of  the  charms  of  the  interior.  On  the  right  is  the 
Castel  Nuovo. 

The  Castel  Nuovo  (PL  E,  5,  6)  was  begun  in  1283  by  Charles  I. 
of  Anjou  from  a  design  attributed  to  Giovanni  da  Pisa,  and  exe- 
cuted in  the  French  fortification  style  of  that  period.  The  kings 
of  the  houses  of  Anjou  and  Arragon  ,  and  the  Spanish  viceroys 
successively  resided  here.  Alphonso  I.  (1442)  added  five  round 
towers,  and  the  castle  was  enlarged  by  Don  Pedro  de Toledo  (1546) 
and  Charles  Til.  (1735).  Part  of  the  fortifications  was  condemned 
to  demolition  in  1862  as  it  held  a  threatening  attitude  towards 
the   city. 

The  Entrance  is  opposite  the  Strada  del  Castello.  Passing  the  sentry, 
we  turn  to  the  right .  and  then  to  the  left.  After  a  few  hundred  paces 
we  reach  the  entrance  to  the  fortifications  strictly  so  called,  which  con- 
sists (if  a  lofty  "Triumphal  Arch  between  two  round  towers,  erected  in 
1470  to  commemorate  the  entry  of  Alphonso  of  Arragon  (2nd  June,  1442), 
by  Pietro  di  Martino,  a  Milanese  architect,  or,  according  to  Vasari,  by 
Giuliano  da  Maiwio  of  Florence.  This  is  the  finest  monument  at  Naples. 
It  consists  of  an  archway  with  Corinthian  columns  on  each  side,  now 
partly  built  into  the  wall,  a  frieze,  and  a  cornice,  above  whicli  is  an 
attic  with  well  executed  sculpture  representing  the  entry  of  Alphonso, 
by  Isaia  da  Pisa  and  fiilrestro  delV  Aquila.  Above  are  statues  of  St. 
Michael.  St.  Antonius  Abbas,  and  St.  Sebastian  (half  destroyed)  ,  below 
which  are  the  four  cardinal  virtxies  in  niches.  The  bronze  doors  are 
adorned  with  representations  of  the  victories  of  Ferdinand  I.,  by  Gu- 
glielmo  Monaco.  A  cannon-ball  imbedded  in  the  masonry  of  the  left  wing 
is  a  reminiscence  of  the  wars  of  the  time  of  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova. 

In  the  inner  barrack-yard  rises  the  church  of  S.  Barbara,  or  S.  Se- 
basliaiw  (custodian  to  the  right,  outside  the  triumphal  arch,  No.  223; 
1  ,'■«-  fr.l,  with  a  Corinthian  facade  by  Giuliano  da  Maianu,  and  a  beautiful 
Madonna  in  relief  above  the  door.  In  the  choir,  to  the  left  behind  the 
high  altar,  is  a  famous  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  pronounced  by  Vasari  to 
be  one  of  t'  e  oldest  oil-paintings  in  the  world,  and  ascribed  by  him  to 
Van  Elicit;  others  attribute  it  to  Lo  Zingaro,  or  his  pupils  the  Donzclli. 
According  to  modern  critics,  however,  this  work  lias  been  greatly  over- 
rated. —  A  dark  spiral  staircase  of  25  steps  adjoining  the  sacristy  as- 
cends to 'a  Loggia i,  where  we  enjoy  an  excellent  survey  of  the  govern- 
ment docks  and  the  harbour. 

A  covered  gallery  connecting  the  fort  with  the  palace  is  destined  for 
use  in  ease  of  any  sudden  emergency  or  rebellion. 

The  continuation  of  the  Strada  del  Molo  is  formed  by  the  Molo, 
a  pier  14  yds.  in  width,  originally  constructed  by  Charles  of  Anjou 


Harbours.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       43 

in  1302,  adjoining  which  are  the  extensive  Harbours  (PI.  F,  6,  5), 
the  Porto  Militare  being  on  the  right  and  the  Porto  Mercantile  on 
the  left.  On  the  right,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Molo,  is  the  royal 
Arsenate  di  Marina,  erected  in  1577  by  the  viceroy  Mendoza,  with 
a  dockyard,  etc.  The  neighbouring  Porto  Militare,  or  government 
harbour,  shut  off  by  a  railing,  was  begun  by  Francis  I.  in  1826. 
On  the  S.  side  it  is  protected  by  a  strong  breakwater,  which  ex- 
tends 429  yds.  into  the  sea  in  a  S.B.  direction,  and  it  is  5 
fathoms  in  depth.  A  number  of  men-of-war  of  the  Italian  navy, 
some  of  them  iron-clads  (corazzate),  are  frequently  stationed  here, 
and  may  be  inspected  by  visitors. 

The  mercantile  harbour ,  the  Porto  Mercantile  or  Porto 
Grande  ,  was  constructed  in  1302  by  Charles  II.  of  Anjou  at  the 
same  time  as  the  Molo  Grande,  and  enlarged  by  Charles  III.  in 
1740.  It  presents  an  animated  and  busy  scene  ,  characteristic  of  a 
southern  climate.  An  excursion  on  the  bay,  to  which  the  boat- 
men invite  foot-passengers,  is  very  enjoyable  in  fine  weather 
(bargaining  necessary;   comp.  p.  26). 

Atthe  angle  formed  by  the  Molo  Tises  the  Lighthouse  (Lanterna; 
PI.  F,  5),  originally  erected  in  the  15th  cent.,  but  rebuilt  in 
1843.  The  ascent  is  strongly  recommended,  as  it  enables  the  vis- 
itor to  form  an  accurate  idea  of  the  topography  of  the  town 
(fee  1  fr.).  An  easy  marble  staircase  of  142  steps  ascends  to 
the  gallery.  —  The  Molo  is  terminated  by  a  battery. 

The  handsome  quay  called  the  Strada  del  Piliero  skirts  the 
mercantile  harbour.  Adjoining  the  latter ,  and  connected  with  it 
by  a  channel  under  the  street ,  is  the  Porto  Piccolo  ,  which  is 
now  almost  entirely  choked  with  sand,  and  is  accessible  to  small 
boats  only.  This  once  formed  part  of  the  most  ancient  harbour  of 
Pala?opolis.  The  Dogana  Nuova  is  situated  here.  To  the  right,  at 
the  end  of  the  Molo  Piccolo  is  situated  the  Immacolalella  with 
the  offices  of  the  custom-house  and  the  Sanita  (PI.  24).  Straight 
before  us,  opposite  the  Strada  del  Piliero,  rises  a  fountain,  erected 
in  1870.  Farther  on,  immediately  beyond  the  Porto  Piccolo,  to  the 
right,  is  the  starting-point  of  the Ischia  steamers  (seep.  101  ;  hours 
of  departure  for  Ischia  and  Capri  to  be  learned  at  the  office,  Strada 
Molo  Piccolo  34). 

The  first  side-street  to  the  left  leads  straight  to  the  church  of  S. 
Pietro  Martire  (PI.  70),  which  contains  a  few  monuments  and  pictures 
(Legend  of  St.   Vincent,  in  a  style  ;ikin  to  the  Flemish). 

The  last  street  but  one  to  the  left  before  8.  Pietro  is  reached  leads 
into  the  Strada  di  Porto,  a  scene  of  the  most  motley  hustle  and  confusion, 
especially  towards  evening.  Vendors  of  fish,  meat,  maccaroni ,  and  re- 
freshments of  all  kinds  cook  their  delicacies  in  the  open  street,  and 
attract  numerous  customers.  As  this  moreover  is  the  dirtiest  quarter  of 
the  town  ,    the   fumes  which  arise  are  intensely  'ancient  and  fislilike\ 

We  continue  to  follow  the  broad  quay  of  the  Strada  Nuova, 

which  is  always  full  of  life  and  bustle.     The  fishermen  and  boat- 


44       Route  4.  NAPLES.       S.  Marin  del  Carmine. 

men,  with  their  Phrygian  caps  and  their  sunburnt  and  often  handsome 
features,  are  the  modern  representatives  of  the  Lazzaroni,  a  class 
which  has  long  been  the  especial  favourite  of  novelists,  but  which 
may  now  be  considered  as  extinct.  The  name ,  derived  from 
the  Lazarus  of  the  Bible,  dates  from  the  time  of  the  Spanish  vice- 
roys ,  and  was  applied  to  the  homeless  and  half-naked  Neapolitans 
who  preferred  begging  to  work.  At  the  present  day,  however,  the 
lower  classes ,  setting  aside  the  fraternity  which  preys  on  tra- 
vellers,  are   remarkable  for  their  industry  and  frugality. 

About  10  min.  walk  beyond  the  Porto  Piccolo  we  reach  the 
Porta  del  Carmine  (PI.  G,  4),  adjoining  which,  and  forming  the 
E.  extremity  of  the  town,  rises  the  Cartel  del  Carmine,  a  vast 
structure  erected  by  Ferdinand  1.  in  14S4.  In  1647  during  the 
rebellion  of  Masaniello  (p.  163)  it  was  occupied  by  the  popu- 
lace. It  was  afterwards  fortified,  and  is  now  used  as  barracks 
and  a  military  prison. 

The  Porta  del  Carmine  leads  to  a  piazza,  in  which,  on  the 
right,  is  situated  the  church  of  *S.  Maria  del  Carmine  (PI.  59) 
with  its  lofty  tower.  The  edifice,  which  is  of  early  origin,  but  was 
modernised  in  1709,  contains  the  tomb  of  Conradin ,  the  last  of 
the  Hohenstaufen. 

The  tomb  was  originally  behind  the  high  altar,  bearing  the  simple 
inscription  K.  C.  C.  (Begis  Conradini  corpus).  In  1847  Maximilian  II.  of 
Bavaria,  when  Crown-prince,  caused  a  "Statue,  by  SchOpf  of  Munich,  from 
a  design  by  Thorvuldsen,  to  be  erecteil  in  the  nave  of  the  church  to  the 
memory  of  Conradin  (born  in  1252).  The  pedestal  bears  a  German  in- 
scription to  the  effect  that  —  'Maximilian,  Crown  -  prince  of  Bavaria, 
erected  this  monument,  to  a  scion  of  his  house,  King  Conradin,  the  last 
of  the  Hohenstaufen'.  The  two  reliefs  represent  the  parting  of  Conradin 
from  his  mother,  the  Princess  Elizabeth,  and  his  separation  from  Fre- 
derick of  Baden  at  the  place  of  execution.  Beneath  this  monument  now 
lie  the  remains  of  the  unfortunate  prince.  The  whole  is  well  executed, 
and,  placed  as  it  is,  most  impressive. 

We  now  turn  to  the  left  to  the  Piazza  del  Mercato  (PI.  G,  4), 
in  the  centre  of  which  rises  a  new  covered  Market,  constructed  chief- 
ly of  iron  ,  where  the  traffic  is  busiest  on  Mondays  and  Fridays. 
The  fish-market  is  interesting.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  piazza,  which 
forms  a  semicircle,  is  the  church  of  8.  Croce  al  Mercato.  On  the 
S.  side  are  two  fountains.  On  29th  Oct.  1268,  Conradin,  the  last 
scion  of  his  princely  house,  then  in  his  18th  year,  and  his  relation 
Frederick  of  Baden,  were  executed  here  by  order  of  Charles  I.  of 
Anjou.  The  sacristy  of  the  church  of  S.  Croce  contains  a  column 
of  porphyry  which  formerly  marked  the  spot  where  the  young  prince 
was  beheaded.  It  bears  a  derisive  inscription  ,  alluding  to  Gio- 
vanni Frangipani,  Count  of  Astura,  with  whom  Conradin  sought 
refuge  after  the  battle  of  Tagliacozzo,  and  who  betrayed  him  to 
Charles  of  Anjou:  — ■ 

Asturis  ungue  leo  pullum  rapiens  aquilinum 
Hie  depluuiavit  acephalumque  dedit. 

This  piazza  was  also   one  of  the  scenes  of  the   insurrection  of 


Piazza  de' Martiri.  NAPLES.  J.  Route.      45 

Masaniello.  —  The  traveller  is  recommended  not  to  attempt  to 
penetrate  farther  into  the  town  from  this  point.  —  Returning  to  the 
church  del  Carmine,  and  following  the  street  to  the  left,  we  may 
reach  the  Porta  Capuana  (p.  57)  in  8  min.  ;  or  we  may  pass  the 
church  and  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  small  Piazza. 
Garibaldi,  and  turn  to  the  left  into  the  broad,  new  Como  Garibaldi, 
which  begins  near  the  coast,  passes  [5  min.)  the  Porta  Nolana,  the 
railway-station,  and  (5  min.  )  the  Porta  Capuana,  and  terminates 
in  the  Strada  ForTa  (see  p.  48). 

II.    The  Toledo.    Capodimonte. 

Starting  from  the  Largo  della  Vittoria  (p.  38;  PI.  I),  6),  the 
broad  Strada  S.  Caterina,  with  its  handsome  shops,  leads  us 
towards  the  N.  to  the  triangular  Piazza  de'  Martiri,  where  a  Mon- 
ument (PI.  78)  was  erected  in  1864  to  the  memory  of  the  patriots 
who  have  perished  during  the  different  revolutions,  consisting  of  a 
lofty  column  of  marble  decorated  with  trophies,  and  crowned  with 
a  Victory  in  bronze.  The  four  lions  at  the  base,  in  different 
postures,  represent  the  four  principal  revolutions  at  Naples  dur- 
ing the  Bourbon  dynasty  (1799,  1820,  1848,  1860).  The  monu- 
ment was  designed  by  Alvino,   the  Victory  executed  by  Cayyiani. 

To  the  left  in  the  piazza  is  the  Palazzo  Miranda  (PI.  19), 
erected  in  1780  by  Barba,  now  the  property  of  the  Princess  of 
Ottajano,  daughter  of  the  Duchess  of  Miranda,  containing  pictures 
by  Spagnoletto,  Guido  Reni,  Rubens,  and  others.  (Visitors  ad- 
mitted daily,  12-2,  on  presenting  their  visiting-cards;  attendant 
1   fr.,   porter  50  c.) 

We  next  enter  the  busy  Strada  di  Chiaja  (PI.  1),  E,  6). 
Where  this  street  begins  to  ascend ,  it  is  crossed  by  the  Ponte 
di  Chiaja,  a  viaduct  built  in  1634,  by  which  the  Strada  Monte 
di  Dio  leads  from  the  quarter  of  Pizzofalcone  to  the  higher 
ground  below  S.  Elmo.  The  Str.  di  Chiaja,  which  contains  nothing 
noteworthy,    leads  into  the  Toledo   opposite   the   Teatro  S.  Carlo. 

The  *To]edo ,  a  street  begun  by  the  viceroy  Don  Pedro  de 
Toledo  in  1540,  but  since  the  autumn  of  1870  officially  known 
as  the  Via  di  Roma,  yiii  Toledo,  is  the  main  artery  of  the  traffic 
of  Naples,  and  presents  a  busy  scene  at  all  hours.  It  intersects 
the  city  from  S.  to  N.  nearly  in  a  straight  line,  ascending  gradually 
from  the  sea.  It  extends  from  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscito  (p.  39) 
to  the  Museo  Nazionale,  beyond  which  its  prolongation  is  formed 
by  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Capodimonte,  and  is  nearly  l1^  M.  in 
length,  but  contains  no  building  worthy  of  note.  On  both  sides 
extends  a  network  of  streets  and  lanes,  many  of  which  ascend  to 
the  left  by  means  of  steps  to  the  Corso  Yittorio  Emanuele  and  the 
Castel  S.  Elmo,  while  those  to  the  right  extend  to  the  railway  and 
the  harbour,  forming  the  centres  of  mercantile  traffic. 


46      Routed.  NAPLES.  Toledo. 

Ascending  the  Toledo  from  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscite,  we  come 
in  about  10  min.  to  the  small  Largo  della  Carita  (PI.  E,  4,  5), 
whence  a  street  diverges  to  the  right  to  the  Piazza  Montoliveto 
(p.  50;  post  office,  see  p.  50).  A  steep  street  to  the  left  ascends 
to  S.  Martino  (donkey  l-ll/2  l'r0>  see  P-  83. 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  the  Strada  S.  Trinitu 
(p.  51),  the  only  important  side-street  by  which  the  Toledo  is 
crossed,  rises  the  Palazzo  Maddaloni  (PI.  18;  entrance  in  the  Str. 
Maddaloni),  now  let  to  the  Bank  of  Naples,  a  massive  structure 
with  a  gateway  and  staircase  from  designs  by  Fansaya.  The  in- 
terior contains  a  hall  of  fine  proportions.  Adjacent,  separated  by 
a  cross-street,  at  the  corner  of  the  Toledo  and  the  Strada  Monto- 
liveto, is  the  Palazzo  d'Angri  (PI.  12),  erected  about  1773  by 
Luigi  Vanvitelli,  and  occupied  by  Garibaldi  when  dictator  in  1860. 
The  picture  gallery  it  formerly  contained  has  been  sold. 

In  10  min.  more  we.  reach  the  recently  much  enlarged  Piazza 
Dante  (P).  E,  4),  formerly  the  Largo  del  Mercatello ,  where  a 
Monument  of  Dante  in  marble,  by  T.  Angelini  and  Solari,  was 
erected  in  187'2.  The  crescent-shaped  edifice,  beyond  the  statue, 
which  was  converted  into  a  Liceo  Ginnasiale  Vittorio  Emanuele 
in  1861,  surmounted  by  a  balustrade  with  twenty-six  statues, 
was  erected  by  the  city  of  Naples  in  honour  of  Charles  III.  in 
1757,  the  statues  being  emblems  of  the  virtues  of  that  monarch.  • — 
Adjacent,  to  the  left,  is  the  Porta  Alba,  erected  in  1632,  em- 
bellished with  a  bronze  statue  of  S.  Gaetano,  whence  the  Strada 
de'  Tribunali  may  be  entered  (see  pp.  58 — 60). 

Leaving  the  Piazza  Dante ,  and  passing  a  row  of  houses  re- 
cently erected,  we  ascend  gradually  in  5  min.  by  the  Salita  del 
Museo  to  the  Museo  Nazionale ,  a  large  red  building ,  the  en- 
trance to  which  is  in  the  broad  side- street  diverging  to  the 
right  to  the  Piazza  Cavour  (see  p.  62).  Opposite  the  entrance, 
on  the  right ,  are  several  large  new  buildings ,  now  nearly 
completed,  and  among  them  a  bazaar  which  will  be  entered 
from  this  side. 

The  continuation  of  the  Toledo  beyond  the  Museum  is  formed 
by  the  Strada  Nuova  di  Capodimonte,  which  gradually  ascends. 
From  the  beginning  of  this  street,  opposite  the  N.W  corner  of 
the  Museum,  the  Strada  dell'  Infrascata  or  Salvator  Rosa  diverges 
to  the  left ,  ascending  to  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  (p.  82) 
and  the  hill  of  Posilipo  (p.  86).  We  follow  the  Strada  di  Capo- 
dimonte ,  and  in  about  10  min.  cross  the  Ponte  della  Sanita,  a 
viaduct  constructed  in  1809  across  the  quarter  della  Sanita  which 
lies  below. 

Descending  to  the  left  immediately  beyond  the  bridge  ,  and 
from  the  lower    end    of  the    street    entering    the  winding  Strada 


Palazzo  di  Capodimonte.    NAPLES.  4.  Route.      47 

iS.  Gennaro  to  the  right ,  we  soon  reach  the  large  hospice  or 
poor-house  of  that  name,  which  contains  several  hundred  inmates. 
At  the  back  of  the  building  is  the  church  of  S.  Gennaro  (St. 
Januarius),  with  the  entrance  to  the  extensive  Catacombs  (PI.  4) 
of  Naples ,  admission  to  which  is  obtained  by  applying  to  the 
porter  of  the  hospice  (admission  1  fr.  for  each  person,  and  trifling- 
fee  to  the  attendant). 

The  church  of  S.  Gennaro  dei  Poveri,  founded  in  the  8th  cunt,  on  the 
site  of  a  chapel  where  St.  Januarius  was  interred,  is  now  completely 
modernised.  The  vestibule  of  the  inner  court  is  embellished  with 
"frescoes  from  the  history  of  the  saint  by  A.  Sabbatini.  unfortunately  in 
bad  preservation.  The  only  entrance  to  the  Catacombs  is  now  at  the 
back  of  this  church.  Their  extent  is  said  to  be  very  great,  but  alter  the 
fearful  plague  of  1656  when  the  dead  were  buried  here,  and  at  subsequent 
periods,  they  were  for  the  most  part  covered  up.  They  are  remarkable 
for  the  width  and  height  of  the  passages,  in  which  respect  they  far  sur- 
pass the  Roman ,  though  inferior  in  every  other  point.  They  consist 
of  a  long  series  of  passages  and  chambers,  with  innumerable  niches  (lo- 
ctili),  containingbones  and  emblems  of  the  Christian  faith,  on  three  different 
levels  connected  by  staircases.  The  two  upper  stories  alone  are  now  ac- 
cessible. The  oldest  parts,  dating  from  the  pagan  era,  have  undergone 
frequent  alteration.  Information  as  to  the  history  and  decorations  of 
these  early  Christian  burial-places  will  be  found  in  the  Handbook  for 
Central  Italy.  The  inscriptions  found  here  have  been  placed  in  the 
Museum.  Among  the  paintings  may  be  mentioned  several  figures  of  bish- 
ops (including  the  life-size  busts  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  of  the  4th  or 
5th  cent.,  and  both  of  the  type  which  afterwards  became  conventional 
for  figures  of  these  apostles"),  a  Christ  of  the  5th  or  6th  cent,  (at  the 
tomb  of  St.  Januarius),  and  several  pleasing  older  ceiling  paintings, 
recalling  the  Pompeian  style. 


Beyond  the  Ponte  della  Sanita  the  Strada  di  Capodimonte 
(passing  a  brewery  with  a  garden  on  the  right)  leads  in  a  few 
minutes  to  a  circular  space  called  the  Tondo  di  Capodimonte 
(PI.  E,  1 ;  ordinary  cab-fares  thus  far).  The  road  now  describes 
a  long  curve  to  the  left.  Walkers  ascend  the  steps  ,  and  at  the 
top  follow  the  road  to  the  right.  (The  road  which  here  goes  on 
to  the  left  leads  round  the  park  of  Capodimonte  and  unites  with 
the  Capua  road  near  Seconcligliano.)  From  the  Tondo  di  Capo- 
dimonte to  the  palace  is  a  walk  of  7  min. 

The  royal  Palazzo  di  Capodimonte  (PI.  14;  permesso  procured 
at  the  Pal.  Reale;  attendant  1  fr. ;  porter  1/»  fr.),  situated  above 
the  town  to  the  N.  on  the  eminence  of  that  name,  was  begun 
in  1738  by  Charles  III.,  but  not  completed  till  1834-39  in  the 
reign  of  Ferdinand  II.  The  edifice  was  designed  by  Medrano, 
the  architect  of  the  Teatro  S.  Carlo.  The  gardens,  which  are 
partly  laid  out  in  the  English  style,  are  unfortunately  destitute 
of  water. 

Beautiful  views.  The  palace  contains  the  so-called  royal  Musko  i>i 
Capodimonte,  an  extensive,  but  not  very  valuable  collection  of  pictures, 
chielly  by  modern  Neapolitan  masters,  and  of  modern  sculptures,  distrib- 
uted throughout  the  different  apartments  (catalogue  l'/a  fr.).  The  follow- 
ing are  worthy  of  mention:  Hackcrt ,  Wild -boar  hunt  in  the  Bosco  di 
Persano ;    Chase  of  wild  fowl  on  the  Lago  Fusaro.  bv  the  same;  Lemaslet 


-IS      Route  4.  NAPLES.  Observatory. 

Marriage  of  the  Duchesse  de  lierry ;  Camnccini,  Death  of  Crcsar;  Celenlano, 
Benvenuto  Cellini  at  the  Castel  S.  Angelo;  liana,  Clysses  and  Alcinous ; 
a  table  with  ancient  mosaic  from  Pompeii;  Marinnlli,  Cleopatra  at  her 
toilet;  Virginia  Lebrun,  Portraits  of  the  Duchess  of  Parma  and  Maria 
Theresa;  Angelica  Kaiifinann,  'Ferdinand  I.  and  his  consort  with  their 
children.  —  The  palace  also  contains  a  collection  of  porcelain  from  the 
former  manufactory  of  Capodimonte  and  a  valuable  collection  of  armour 
(Armeria),  formerly  preserved  in  the  Pal.  Reale.  Among  the  objects  of 
interest  here  are  the  ancient  accoutrements  of  kings  Roger  and  Ferdi- 
nand I.,  of  Alexander  Farnese,  and  of  Victor  Amadeus  of  Savoy :  also 
the  sword  presented  by  Ferdinand  I.  to  the  gallant  Scanderbeg. 

Near  Capodimonte  are  the  villas  Meuricoffre,  Ruffo,  Avelli, 
and   Forquet,   commanding  line  views  in  all  directions. 

To  the  W.,  opposite  Capodimonte.  stands  the  Villa  Regina 
Isabella,  or  Villa  Gallo  (PI.  D,  1),  founded  in  1809  by  the  Duca 
di  Gallo,  afterwards  the  property  of  the  queen  from  whom  it 
derives  its  name,  and  now  that  of  her  second  husband  the  Conte 
del  Balzo.  The  summit  commands  a  remarkably  line  prospect  of 
the  city  and  bay. 

Pleasant  walk  from  the  Villa  Oallo  through  the  valley  between  Ca- 
maldoli  and  the  Vomero  to  the  I.ago  d'Agnano,  or  to  the  left  to  Fuori- 
grotta  and  to  the  Bagnoli  road  on  the  coast.  Coihp.  Map,  p.  88.  —  If  on 
leaving  the  park  of  Capodimonte  we  turn  to  the  left,  we  may  proceed  by 
the  outskirts  of  the  city  to  the  Carnpo  Santo  outside  the  Porta  Capuana, 
an  excursion  best  made  by  carriage.  A  visit  to  the  palace  and  grounds, 
and  to  the  cemeterv.  will  take  about  5  hrs.  in  all.  (Two-horse  carr. 
5-G    fr.) 

Following  the  road  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  park  of  Capodi- 
monte, and  after  a  few  minutes  turning  to  the  left,  we  reach  the 
Observatory  {Osserratorio  Reale,  PI.  11),  occupying  the  summit  of 
the  hill.  It  is  popularly  called  La  Specola,  or,  after  the  villa  of  a 
Spanish  marquis  which  once  stood  here,  Miradois.  The  observatory 
was  founded  in  1812,  and  enlarged  in  1820  from  plans  by  the 
celebrated  Piazzi.  Jt  commands  an  unobstructed  horizon  in  all 
directions,  and  under  Piazzi  (d.  1826)  attained  a  European  repu- 
tation. The  present  director,  Comm.  de  Gasparis.  has  distinguished 
himself  by  the  discovery  of  several  small  planets.  ■ —  On  the 
way  to  the  observatory  a  path  descends  in  steps  past  the  church  de' 
Miracoli  to  the  Strada  Foria  (see  below). 

Farther  off,  at  the  base  of  Capodimonte,  are  visible  the  remains  of 
tlie  Aqua  Julia,  now  called  Ponti  Rossi,  the  great  aqueduct  constructed 
by  Augustus.  One  branch  supplied  the  city  of  Xaples,  the  other  crossed 
the  Vomero  to  tlie  right,  whence  several  ramifications  diverged,  some  to 
the  villas  on  the  Posilipo,  another  by  Monte  Olibano  to  Baise  and  Mise- 
nuin,  where  it  terminated  in  the  Piscina  Mirabilis  (p.  97). 


The  broad  transverse  street  diverging  from  tlie  Toledo  to  the 
right  (K.)  by  the  Museum  (pp.  45,  46)  leads  first  to  the  large 
Piazza  Cavouk  (PI.  E,  3),  formerly  the  Largo  delle  Pigne,  em- 
bellished with  gardens.  Farther  on,  the  street  takes  the  name  of 
Strada  Foria.  The  first  street  diverging  from  it  to  the  right  is  the 
new  Via  del  Duomo,  leading  to  the  cathedral  (4  min. ;   p.  60);   the 


L'lncoronata.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      49 

Via  Carbonara  next  diverges  on  the  same  side  to  S.  Giovanni  a 
Carbonara  (p.  57)  and  the  Porta  Capuana;  and  the  new  Corso  Gari- 
baldi farther  on  also  leads  to  the  right  to  the  same  gate  (10  min.  ; 
p.  57). 

On  the  left  side  of  the  Strada  Foria  we  next  reach  the  Botunic 
Garden,  which  was  founded  in  1809  and  extended  in  1818.  It  is 
open  to  the  public  daily,  except  from  12  to  2.  To  the  left  of  the 
principal  entrance  is  a  specimen  of  the  extremely  poisonous  Rhus 
toxicodendron.  —  Adjacent  is  the  extensive  poor-house,  the 
Albergo  de'  Poveri,  or  Reclusorio,  begun  by  Charles  III.  in  1751 
from  a  design  by  Fuga,  and  intended  to  contain  four  courts,  but 
still  nearly  half  uncompleted.  One  side  is  appropriated  to  men, 
the  other  to  women.  In  this  establishment  and  its  dependencies 
about  5000  persons  are  maintained.  The  city  contains  numerous 
other  charitable  institutions ,  about  sixty  in  all ,  most  of  which 
are  amply  endowed.   —  Omnibuses,    see  p.  25. 


III.  The  Old  Town.   E.  Quarters  between  the 
Toledo  and  the  Harbour. 

Naples  contains  about  three  hundred  Churches  ,  most  of  which  are 
devoid  of  interest.  The  older  of  them  have  been  disfigured  by  restora- 
tion in  the  degraded  style  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries,  which  appears 
to  have  attained  its  highest  perfection  here.  But,  as  they  contain  nu- 
merous monuments ,  important  in  the  history  of  sculpture ,  and  are  rich 
in  historical  and  political  associations,  some  of  them  are  well  deserving 
of  a  visit.  The  most  important  are  described  in  the  following  pages.  They 
are  generally  closed  about  noon,  and  not  re-opened  till  evening. 

We  begin  our  walk  in  the  Strada  Medina  (PI.  B  ,  5) ,  by 
the  fountain  mentioned  at  p.  42.  To  the  left  of  this  point, 
adjoining  No.  49  ,  is  a  railing  enclosing  a  flight  of  steps  which 
descend  to  the  church  of  the  — 

*Incoronata  (PI.  56  ;  open  in  the  morning),  erected  in  1352  by 
Johanna  I.  to  commemorate  her  coronation  and  marriage  with  her 
cousin  Louis  of  Taranto,  and  made  to  include  the  old  chapel  of 
the  Palais  de  Justice  in  which  the  marriage  had  been  solemnised. 

This  chapel  contains  admirable  ''"Frescoes ,  formerly  attributed  to  Giotto, 
but  probably  by  one  of  his  pupils  or  imitators  (much  darkened  and  in- 
jured; best  seen  from  a  platform  to  the  left  near  the  entrance  to  the 
church ;  keys  at  the  sacristy,  5-6  soldi).  They  represent  the  'Seven  Sacra- 
ments and  the  Church'.  In  the  arch  over  the  right  window,  on  the  right 
is  the  'Triumph  of  the  Church',  with  portraits  of  King  Robert  and  his 
son  Charles,  attired  in  purple,  on  the  left  the  Extreme  Unction.  The  next 
arch  to  the  right  comprises:  (1.)  Baptism,  (r.)  Confirmation;  then  (1.)  the 
Eucharist,  and  (r.)  Confession;  and  on  the  other  side,  (1.)  Ordination,  (r.) 
Matrimony.  Two  half-figures  in  'Baptism',  one  of  which  is  crowned  with 
laurel,  are  said  to  represent  Petrarch  and  Laura,  and  in  'Matrimony'  Dante's 
features  are  said  to  be  recognisable.  The  Chapel  of  the  Crucifix ,  at  the 
end  of  the  left  aisle,  also  contains  frescoes  in  Giotto's  style,  ascribed 
to  Gennaro  di  Cola,  a  pupil  of  Maestro  Simone  :  to  the  left  are  represented 
the  Coronation  of  Johanna  I.,  her  nuptials,  and  other  events  in  her  life; 
to  the  right  St.  Martin,  St.  George,  battles,  etc.,  all  much  damaged. 
Baedekeu.     Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  4 


50      Route  i.  NAPLES.  S.  Maria  la  Nuova. 

The  church  contains  numerous  votive  offerings  for  recovery  from  sick- 
ness and  the  perils  of  childbirth. 

Opposite  the  church  is  situated  the  Palazzo  Fondi  designed 
by  Vanvitelli,  and  containing  a  picture-gallery  (shown  by  special 
permission  of   the    prince  only). 

Calabrese ,  Martyrdom  of  St.  Januarius ;  :::  Salvator  Rosa ,  four  land- 
scapes; Caravaggio,  Portrait  of  the  poet  Marini ;  Domenichino,  S.  Filippo 
Neri;  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  Mater  Dolorosa;  Raphael('l),  Madonna  del  Car- 
dellino,  a  replica  of  that  in  the  Tribuna  in  Florence;  Rubens,  Diana  and 
Callisto;  Rembrandt,  Portrait  of  himself ;  Van  Dijck,  Portraits  of  the  Ge- 
noese family  of  Marini ;   Velasquez,  Palace  of  the  Inquisition  at  Madrid,  etc. 

At  the  end  of  the  Strada  Medina  we  enter  the  busy  Strada 
S.  Giuseppe  to  the  left.  After  a  few  minutes'  walk,  a  broad  street 
to  the  right  leads  to  the  church  of  S.  Maria  la  Nuova  (PI.  61), 
which  is  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  It  was  erected  in  1268 
by  Giovanni  da  Pisa,  restored  in  1596  by  Franco,  and  adorn- 
ed with  frescoes  on  the  ceiling  by  Santafede  and  Simone  Papa 
the  younger,  and  on  the  dome  (the  four  Franciscan  teachers:  S. 
Bonaventura,  Duns  Scotus ,  Nicolaus  de  Lira,  and  Alexander  ab 
Alexandre)  by   Corenzio. 

In  the  1st  Chap,  to  the  right,  the  'Archangel  Michael1,  formerly  ascribed 
to  Michael  Angelo.  3rd  Chap.  :  Crucifixion,  Marco  da  Siena.  In  the  Chap, 
del  Croceflsso  frescoes  by  Corenzio.  —  The  right  transept  contains  the  monu- 
ment of  Galeazzo  Sanseverino  (d.  1477) ,  with  sculptures  of  the  15th 
century.  In  the  opposite  chapel  is  a  beautiful  crucifix  in  wood  by  Mer- 
liano.  —  At  the  high  altar  is  the  monument  of  the  Triventi  family.  — 
The  large  Chapel  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  church  was  erected 
by  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova ,  41  gran  capitano' ,  whose  nephew  Ferdinand 
placed  on  each  side  of  the  altar  the  monuments  of  his  two  most  distinguished 
enemies :  Pietro  Navarro  (who  strangled  himself  when  a  prisoner  in  the 
Castello  Nuovo)  and  Lautree,  a  Frenchman,  the  general  of  Francis  I.  (who 
died  of  the  plague  in  1528,  while  besieging  Naples).  The  monuments  are 
attributed  to  Merliitno.  The  inscriptions,  composed  by  Paolo  Giovio,  testify 
to  the  chivalrous  sentiments  of  that  period. 

The  adjoining  Monastery  possesses  two  sets  of  Cloisters  with  tomb- 
stones, and  is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  unknown  masters. 

We  now  return  and  pursue  our  route  along  the  Str.  Giuseppe, 
of  which  the  Strada  Montoliveto  forms  the  continuation.  Where 
the  latter  expands  into  a  square,  on  the  right  stands  the  Palazzo 
Gravina,  now  the  General  Post  and  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  23), 
erected  about  1500  by  Ferdinando  Oxsini,  Duca  di  Gravina,  from 
designs  by  Gabriele  d'Agnolo.  Although  disfigured  by  modern 
improvements ,  and  much  injured  by  Are  during  the  revolution 
of  1848,   this  is  still  the  finest  building    of  the  kind  in  Naples. 

Ascending  from  this  point  to  the  left ,  past  a  Fountain  with 
a  bronze  statue  of  Charles  II.,  we  traverse  the  Piazza  di  Mont- 
oliveto to  the  church  of  *  S.  Anna  de'  Lombardi ,  or  Monte 
Oliveto  (PI.  66),  erected  in  1414  by  Guerello  Origlia,  the  favour- 
ite of  King  Ladislaus,  from  designs  by  Andrea  Ciccione.  The 
church    contains    valuable    sculptures ;    the  chapels  are  kept  shut 

(sacristan  Y2  *r-)- 

In  the  Vestibule,  on  the  left,  is  the  monument  of  General  Giuseppe 
Trivulzio    (d.  1757);    on    the    right   that   of    the    celebrated    architect    Do- 


S.  Chiara.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      51 

menico  Fontana  (d.  1607),  who  flourished  in  Rome  under  Sixtus  V.  — 
Capfella  Piooolomini  (Int.  on  the  left.):  the  Nativity,  a  relief  by  Donatello, 
or,  according  to  others,  by  his  pupil  Antonio  Rosxcllino.  Above  it,  'Danc- 
ing Angels  by  Rossellino.  The  'Monument  of  Maria  of  Arragon,  natural 
daughter  of  Ferdinand  I.,  wife  of  Antonio  Piccolomini ,  Duke  of  Amalti, 
by  Rossellino ,  is  a  copy  of  the  monument,  of  the  Cardinal  of  Portugal  in 
S.  Miniato's  at  Florence.  Crucifixion,  also  by  Rossellino.  The  Ascension, 
a  picture  by  Silveslro  de'  Biioni.  —  Cappella  Mastrogiudici  (1st  on  the 
right):  Annunciation,  a  relief  by  Benedetto  da  Maiano.  Several  monuments, 
including  that  of  'Marinus  Curialis  Surrentinus  Terrenovse  comes1,  1400, 
who  founded  this  chapel.  —  5th  Chapel  on  the  left:  John  the  Baptist,  by 
Merliano.  —  The  Chapel  of  the  Madonna  (adjoining  the  right  transept) 
contains  the  tombs  of  Cardinal  Pompeo  Colonna ,  viceroy  of  Naples  (d. 
1532),  and  of  Charles  de  Lannoy  (d.  1527) ,  general  of  Charles  V.  —  The 
adjacent  Chapel  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  contains  a  "group  in  terracotta 
by  Modanino  (Gnido  MaizoniY)  of  Modena,  representing  Christ  in  the  Sep- 
ulchre, surrounded  by  six  life-size  figures  in  a  kneeling  posture,  all  por- 
traits of  contemporaries  of  the  artist:  Sannazaro  as  Joseph  of  Arimathfca, 
Pontanus  as  Kicodemus ,  Alphonso  II.  as  John,  beside  him  his  son  Fer- 
dinand. —  The  Choir  contains  frescoes  by  Simone  Papa  the  younger. 
Monuments  of  Alphonso  II.  and  Gucrello  Origlia  by  Giovanni  da  Nola. 

The  adjacent  building,  now  occupied  by  public  offices ,  was 
formerly  a  Iienedictine  monastery,  where  the  poet  Tasso  was 
kindly  received  when  ill  and  in  distress  in  1588.  —  The  Via 
di  Montoliveto  Nuova  leads  hence  to  the  neighbouring  Toledo 
(see  p.  46). 

Returning  to  the  fountain  from  which  we  started,  we  follow 
the  Calata  S.  Trinita  Maggiore  to  the  Largo  S.  Trinita  Mag- 
giore,  where  a  lofty  Statue  of  the  Madonna  was  erected  in  1784 
in  the  tasteless  style  of  the  period.  In  this  piazza  is  situated 
the  church  of  Gesu  Nuovo,  or  S.  Trinith  Maggiore  (PI.  50), 
in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  built  in  1584,  containing  frescoes 
by  Solimena  (History  of  Heliodorus ,  over  the  portal),  Stanzioni, 
Spaynoletto,  and  Corenzio,  and  overladen  with  marble  and  de- 
corations. A  furniture -magazine  opposite  the  church,  Largo 
8.  Trinita  Maggiore  20,  contains  the  old  refectory  of  the  for- 
mer monastery  of  S.  Chiara  ,  where  a  fine  *  Fresco  of  the  School 
of  (riotto,  representing  the  Miracle  of  the  Loaves,  is  still  preser- 
ved (not  very  accessible  ,    but  admission  readily  granted,    '/2  fr.J. 

Beyond  the  church  of  Gesu  we  reach  the  Straija  S.  Trinita 
Maggiore  ,  one  of  the  busiest  streets  crossing  the  Toledo  (p. 
4(5),  and  turning  immediately  the  right  we  pass  through  a  gate 
to  *  Santa  Chiara  (PI.  42),  originally  a  Gothic  church  erected  by 
Robert  the  Wise  in  1310,  but  almost  entirely  rebuilt  by  Ma- 
succio  II.  ('.')  in  1318,  and  richly  but  tastelessly  decorated  in 
1752.  At  the  same  time  Qiotto's  celebrated  frescoes  were  white- 
washed,  with  the  exception  of  a  single  Madonna. 

The  !! Interior,  92  yds.  long  and  35  yds.  wide,  is  lofty  and  handsome, 
resembling  a  magnificent  hall.  To  the  left  of  the  principal  entrance  is 
the  monument  of  <  inofrio  di  Penna,  secretary  of  King  Ladislaus  (d.  1322), 
with  a  relief  of  the  Madonna  and  hermits  by  Bamboccio,  converted  into  an 
altar.  Above  are  a  Madonna  enthroned  and  the  Trinity,  by  Francesco, 
son    of  Maestro  Simone   (about  1300).  —  In  front  of  the  organ,  above,  are 


52       Route  4.  NAPLES.  Santa  Chiara. 

tasteful  reliefs  from  the  life  of  St.  Catharine  ,  14th  cent.  ,  executed  on  a 
ilark  ground  and  resembling  cameos.  —  Of  the  principal  paintings  on  the 
ceiling,  the  first,  the  Queen  of  Sheba,  arid  the  second,  David  playing  on 
the  harp,  are  by  Seb.  Conca;  the  third,  David  sacrificing,  by  Bonilo;  the 
fourth,  S.  Clara  putting  the  Saracens  to  flight,  by  Francesco  di  Nura. 
The  last-named  master  also  painted  the  high  altar-piece  (the  Sacrament) 
and  the  picture  over  the  principal  entrance  (King  Robert  inspecting  the 
church  when  building). 

The  second  chapel  on  the  left  contains  two  sarcophagi:  on  the  right, 
is  the  tomb  of  Gabriel  Adurini  (d.  1572),  an  admiral  under  the  Emperor 
Charles  V.  :  on  the  left  a  tomb  of  the  14th  century.  —  By  the  3rd  pillar 
to  the  left  is  the  altar  of  the  Madonna  delle  Urazie,  with  a  fresco  almost 
concealed  by  frippery,  attributed  to  Giotto. 

^NYar  the  side-door  which  leads  out  of  the  church  on  the  left  side  is 
the  small  but  graceful  monument  of  Antonia  Gaudino,  who  died  in  1530 
at  the  age  of  14,  on  the  day  appointed  for  her  marriage,  with  a  beautiful 
epitaph  by  the  poet  Antonius  Epicurus  (d.  1555).  The  next  chapel  contains 
two  tombstones  of  the  14th  century.  —  The  Cappei.la  Sanfelice,  adjoining 
the  pulpit ,  which  is  borne  by  lions ,  is  adorned  with  reliefs  of  the  13th 
cent,  and  contains  a  Crucifixion  by  Lanfranco ,  and  an  ancient  sarco- 
phagus with  figures  of  Protesilaus  and  Laodamia  which  forms  the  tomb  of 
Cesare  Sanfelice,  Duca  di  Rodi  (d.  1(132).  —  The  following  Cappella  Lon- 
oobakdi  de  la  Cruz  Ahedo  contains  on  the  left  side  a  monument  of  1529, 
and  on  the  right  a  similar  one  of  1853. 

At  the  back  of  the  high  altar  is  the  magnificent  "Monument  of  Robert 
the  Wise  (d.  1343),  42  ft.  in  height,  executed  by  Masuerio  II.  On  the  sum- 
mit the  king  is  represented  seated  on  his  throne,  and  again  below  in  a 
recumbent  posture,  in  the  garb  of  a  Franciscan,  on  a  sarcophagus  embel- 
lished with  reliefs.  The  inscription ,  'Cernite  liobertum  regem  virtute 
refertum'  is  ascribed  to  Petrarch.  —  In  the  adjacent  X.  Tkansept  is  the 
monument  of  his  second  daughter  Mary,  sister  of  Johanna  I.,  empress  of 
Constantinople  and  Duchess  of  Durazzo,  attired  in  her  imperial  robes.  By 
the  wall  to  the  left,  the  tomb  of  Agnese  and  Clementia,  the  two  daughters 
of  the  empress,  the  former  having  also  been  the  consort  of  a  titular  em- 
peror of  Constantinople ,  Giacomo  del  Balzo,  Prince  of  Taranto.  .  In  the 
left  lateral  wall ,  the  tomb  of  Mary,  infant  daughter  of  Charles  the  Illus- 
trious, who  died  in  1344.  —  In  the  S.  Tkansept,  adjoining  the  monument, 
of  Robert  the  Wise,  is  that  of  his  eldest  son  Charles,  Duke  of  Calabria, 
who  died  in  1328,  before  his  father,  also  by  Mamccio.  Farther  on,  to 
the  right,  is  the  monument  of  Mary  of  Vaiois  ,  his  queen,  erroneously 
said  to  be  that  of  her  daughter  Johanna  I.  —  The  Chapel  adjoining  the 
S.  transept  on  the  right  is  the  burial-chapel  of  the  Bourbons,  in  which  six 
children  of  Charles  III  are  interred. 

The  Clock-Tower  (it  Campanile)  of  S.  Chiara,  attributed  to 
Mamccio  II.  ,  or  by  others  to  his  pupil  Giacomo  de  Sanctis, 
dates  from  different  periods,  but  of  the  live  stories  in  different 
styles  of  architecture  originally  planned ,  one  only  in  the  Tuscan 
style  was  completed  at  that  early  period.  The  second  (Doric)  was 
added  in  the  16th,  the  third  (Ionic)  at  the  beginning  of  the 
17th  cent. 

Farther  on  in  the  Str.  Trinita  Maggiore,  we  soon  reach,  on 
the  left,  the  Largo  S.  Lomenico,  containing  the  palaces  of  Ca- 
sacalenda ,  Coriyliano,  S.  Severo,  and  Caviati,  and  adorned  with 
a  tasteless  Obelisk  ,  surmounted  by  a  bronze  statue  of  the  saint, 
executed  by  Vaccaro  in  17B7  from  a  design  by  Fansaya.  The 
stairs  to  the  left  lead  to  a  side- entrance  of  the  church  of  S. 
Uomenico,  the  principal  entrance  of  which  in  the  court  of  the 
Pretura,    Vico  >S.   Domenico.   is  generally  closed. 


.S\  Dmiienicu.  NAPLES.  4.  Rvute.      53 

*S.  Domenico  Maggiore  (PI.  45;  open  7-11  a.m.  only),  erected 
by  Charles  II.  in  1285  in  the  Gothic  style  from  the  design  of  Masuc- 
cio  I.,  is  one  of  the  finest  churches  in  Naples ,  notwithstanding  the 
subsequent  alterations  it  has  undergone  (the  last  in  1850-53).  The 
church  is  83  yds.  long,  36  yds.  wide,  and  84  ft.  high.  It  con- 
tains twenty-seven  chapels  and  twelve  altars,  and  presents  an 
imposing  appearance  with  its  handsome  columns  and  rich  gilding, 
but  the  flat  ceiling  of  the  18th  cent,  does  not  harmonise  well 
with  the  rest  of  the  edifice.  The  most  distinguished  princes  of 
Naples  have  for  centuries  possessed  chapels  here,  with  numerous 
monuments  ,  which  are  as  important  examples  of  early  Renais- 
sance sculpture  as  those  in  8.   Chiara  are  of  Gothic  art. 

The  1st  Chapel  to  the  right  (wall  of  the  entrance),  that  uf  the  Sa- 
luzzo ,  formerly  of  the  Carafa  family,  contains  an  altar-piece  (Madonna 
with  SS.  Martin  and  Dominicus  and  several  of  the  Carafas)  by  Andrea 
da  Salerno;  the  rococo  monument  of  General  Filippo  Saluzzo  (d.  1852), 
and  the  chaste  and  simple  monument  of  Galeotto  Carafa  (d.  1513) 
with  medallion.  —  2nd  Chap.:  altar-piece  by  Agnolo  Franco;  monument 
of  Archbishop  Bartolommeo  Brancaccio  (d.  1341).  —  3rd  Chap.  :  the  badly 
preserved  frescoes  of  this  chapel,  which  also  belongs  to  the  Brancaccio 
family,  represent  the  Crucifixion,  Supper  at  Emmaus,  Resurrection,  Mary 
Magdalene,  and  John  the  Baptist,  by  Ar/nolo  Franco.  —  4th  Chap.,  that 
of  the  Capece :  altar-piece,    Crucifixion  by  Girolamo  Capece. 

The  *Cappella  del  Crocefisso  (the  7th)  contains  handsome  monu- 
ments of  the  15th  century.  The  altar  is  covered  with  Florentine  mosaic 
designed  by  Cosimo  Fansaga.  On  the  lower  part  of  the  altar  is  a  relief  of  the 
::  Crucifix  by  Tommaso  de*  Slefani,  which  according  to  tradition,  thus  addressed 
Thomas  Aquinas:  'Bene  scripsisti  de  me,  Thoma :  quam  ergo  mercedein 
recipies?1  To  which  the  saint  replied:  'Non  aliam  nisi  te.'  Pictures 
on  each  side  of  the  altar:  on  the  right  Bearing  the  Cross,  on  the  left 
Descent  from  the  Cross  by  an  imitator  of  the  Flemish  style.  To  the  left 
of  the  altar  the  monument  of  Francesco  Carafa  by  Agnello  del  Fiorc ; 
on  the  opposite  side  another  by  the  same  master,  completed  by  Giovanni 
da  Nola.  The  small  side-chapel  contains  the  tomb  of  Ettore  Carafa, 
Conte  di  Ruvo  (d.  1511),  with  martial  emblems  and  arabesques.  The 
next  chapel  on  the  left  contains  the  Madonna  della  Rosa,  ascribed  to 
Maestro  Sim-one.  On  the  opposite  side  is  the  beautiful  '■'  monument  of 
Mariano  d'Alagni,  Count  Bucchianico,  and  his  wife  Catavinella  Orsini,  by 
Agnello  del  Fiore.  Adjacent  to  it  is  the  monument  of  Xiccolo  di  Sangro, 
Principe  di  Fondi,  by  Domenico  d'Anria.  —  At  the  entrance  to  the  sacristy, 
monuments  of  members  of  the  family  of  Thomas  Aquinas. 

The  'Sacristy  has  a  ceiling-painting  by  Solimena],  and  at  the  altar 
an  Annunciation  by  Andrea  da  Salerno.  Around  the  walls,  above,  are 
forty-five  large  wooden  sarcophagi  with  scarlet  covers,  ten  of  which 
contain  the  remains  of  princes  of  the  house  of  Arragon.  Among  these 
are  Ferdinand  I.  (d.  1494);  Ferdinand  II.  (d.  1496);  his  aunt,  i-Juccn 
Johanna,  daughter  of  Ferdinand  I.  (d.  1518);  Isabella  (d.  1521),  daughter 
of  AlphonsoII.  andwife  of  the  Duke  ofMilan,  etc.  Also  the  coffin  ofFernando 
Francesco  d'Avalos,  Marehese  di  Pescara,  the  hero  of  Ravenna  and  Pa  via, 
who  died  of  his  wounds  at  Milan  in  1525.  The  inscription  is  by  Arioslo. 
Above  the  tomb  are  suspended  his  portrait,  a  banner,  and  a  sword.  His 
wife  was  the  celebrated  Vittoria  Colonna,  who  after  his  death  sang  his 
praises  in  the  island  oflschia  Ip.  103). 

In  the  S.  Transept  the  chapel  of  St.  Hyacinth.  Adjoining  it  is  the 
"Monument  of  GaleazzoPandone  I'd.  loli)  by  Giovanni  da  Sola.  —  From  the  S. 
transept  a  door  leads  into  a  portion  of  the  older  church  ,  which  also  con- 
tains some  interesting  monuments,  particularly  that  of  the  Rota  family, 
by  Giovanni  da  Sola. 


T>4      Route  4.  NAPLES.  Oapp.  di  8.  Severn. 

The  High  Altai;,  adorned  with  Florentine  mosaic,  is  by  Fansaga,  1652. 

In  the  X.  Tkansei-t,  above  the  chapel  of  the  Pignatelli,  are  the  monu- 
ments of  Giovanni  di  Durazzo  (d.  1323)  and  Filippo  di  Taranto  (d.  1335), 
sons  of  Charles  111.,  with  a  long  inscription  in  leonine  verse. 

X.  Aisle.  The  8th  Chapel  (S.  Maria  della  Neve,)  contains  above 
the  altar  a  beautiful  haut-relief  with  a  statue  of  the  Virgin,  attended  bv 
St.  Matthew  and  St.  John,  the  best  work  of  Giovanni  da  Nola,  executed  in 
153G.  Here  is  also  the  monument  of  the  poet  Giambattista  Marini  of  Naples 
(d.  IG2o),  well  known  for  his  bombastic  style,  with  a  bust  by  Barlolommeo 
Visconlini.  —  7th  Chapel,  of  the  liuffo  Bagnara  family:  Martyrdom  of 
S.  Catherine,  by  Leonardo  da  Pistoja;  tombs  of  Leonardo  Tomacelli  and 
of  Cardinal  Fabricio  Ruffo  td.  1829)  who  acted  a  prominent  part  in  the 
events  of  1799.  —  6th  Chapel:  tombs  of  the  Carafa.  —  5th  Chapel:  of  the 
Andrea.  —  4th  Chapel :  tombs  of  the  Rota  family,  with  a  'statue  of  St.  John 
by  Giovanni  da  JVola ,  as  a  monument  to  the  poet  Bernardino  Ilota 
(d.  1575),  with  figures  of  the  Arno  and  the  Tiber  by  Domenico  d'Atiria 
(1600).  —  3rd  Chapel,  to  the  left:  Martyrdom  of  St.  John  by  Scipione 
Gaetano;  tomb  of  Antonio  Carafa.  surnamed  Malizia  (d.  1438).  —  2nd  Chapel, 
in  the  bad  taste  of  the  17th  cent.  :  the  miracle-working  Madonna  di 
S.  Andrea.  —  1st  Chapel,  to  the  left,  by  the  entrance  tS.  Stefano) :  Christ 
crowning  Joseph,  by  Luca  Giordano:  on  the  lateral  walls  an  Adoration  of 
the  Magi,  ascribed  to  Alliert  Lliirer;  Holv  Family  by  Andrea  da  Salerno. 
"Tomb  of  1636. 

In  the  adjacent  monastery  the  celebrated  Thomas  Aquinas  lived  in  1272 
as  professor  of  philosophy  at  the  university  which  was  then  founded, 
and  bis  lectures  were  attended  by  men  of  the  highest  rank,  and  even  the 
king  himself.  His  cell ,  now  a  chapel ,  and  his  lecture-room  still  exist. 
The  monastery  is  now  occupied  by  various  public  offices.  The  Accademia 
Pontaniana,  founded  in  1471  by  the  learned  Giovanni  Pontano  also 
meets  here. 

Ascending  to  the  right  past  ,S.  Domenico,  and  taking  the 
first  lane  to  the  right,  we  reach  the  Calata  di  S.  Severo,  the 
first  lane  on  the  left,  at  the  beginning  of  which,  No.  if),  is 
the  church  of  S.  Marin  della  Pieta  de'  Sangri,  commonly  called 
La  Cappella  di  San  Severo  (PL  74 ;  the  keys  at  a  shop  op- 
posite; fee  i/2  fr-)i  erected  in  1590  by  Francesco  <li  Sangro,  ex- 
tended in  1613  by  Alessandro  di  Sangro,  Patriarch  of  Alexandria 
and  Archbishop  of  P>enevento,  as  a  burial-place  for  the  Sangro 
family,  and  in  1760  lavishly  decorated  with  gold  and  sculpture 
by  Raimondo  di  Sangro,  Principe  di  Sansevero.  There  is  no 
building  in  Naples  in  which  such  bad  taste  is  displayed  as  in 
this  chapel  with  its  exaggerated  magnificence,  and  unnatural  and 
laboured  allegories.  It  does  not  fail,  however,  to  attract  gaping 
admirers ,  and  is  certainly  remarkable  for  great  skill  of  work- 
manship. 

The  principal  of  these  allegories,  which  was  executed  by  Francesco 
Queirolo  of  Genoa,  is  the  'Man  in  the  Net',  from  which  with  the 
aid  of  reason  (a  crowned  genius)  he  disentangles  himself,  whence 
it  is  called  it  disin'janno.  It  contains  an  allusion  to  Antonio  di  Sangro 
who  renounced  the  world  and  became  a  monk,  after  having  lost  his  beloved 
wife  Cecilia  Gaetani.  The  latter  is  represented  as  Pudicitia,  nude,  but 
slightly  veiled,  the  work  of  Antonio  Comadini  of  Venice.  —  The  altar- 
piece    is  a    Descent   from    the  Cross,    by  Francesco  Celebrano  of  Naples.  

As  another  instance  of  extraordinary  perversion  of  taste  may  be  mentioned 
the  figure  of  Christ  enveloped  in  a  winding  sheet  by  Giuseppe  Sammarlino 
(1753),    laid  out  in  a  chapel  fitted  up  for  the  purpose. 

From   this  point  for  by  S.  Donienieo  to  the  right)  we   may  as- 


University.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      55 

cend  the  side-street  leading  to  the  Str.    de'  Tribunali,  where  the 
cathedral  and  other  important  churches  (p.  58)  are  situated. 


We  now  return  to  the  Largo  S.  Domenico  (p.  52),  in  order 
to  pursue  our  route  along  the  Str.  Trinita,  Maggiore ,  which  is 
continued  by  the  Str.  Nilo  and  by  the  Str.  S.  Biagio  de'  Librai 
(p.  56)  farther  on.  Immediately  to  the  right  is  S.  Angelo  a  Nilo 
(PI.  33),  erected  in  1385;  to  the  right  of  the  high  altar  is  the 
*Monument  of  the  founder  Cardinal  Branoaccio  (d.  1428),  by  Dona- 
tello  and  Michelozzo .  The  lunette  of  the  door,  attributed  to  f'o- 
lantonio  del  Fiore,   is  not  now  distinguishable. 

The  Strada  Salvatore  (the  second  street  from  the  Largo 
S.  Domenico  to  the  right)  descends  hence  to  the  right  to  the 
not  far  distant  — 

University  (PI.  32)  (Begia  Vniversita  degli  Studj),  founded  in 
1224  by  the  Emp.  Frederick  II.,  reconstituted  in  1780  and 
removed  to  the  Jesuits'  College.  It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
in  Europe,  and  was  the  only  one  in  the  kingdom  of  Naples ;  it 
possesses  five  faculties,  twenty-five  professorial  chairs,  a  library, 
and  natural  history  collections  of  which  the  mineralogical  is  the 
most  valuable.  The  library,  admirably  arranged  by  Tommaso  Gar, 
may  be  used  by  strangers  from  9  to  3  daily  (librarian  Comm. 
Minervini).  The  Court  contains  the  statues  of  Pietro  della  Vigna, 
chancellor  of  Frederick  II.,  Thomas  Aquinas,  G.  B.  Vico ,  and 
Giordano  Bruno,   erected  in  1863. 

Leaving  the  university  and  proceeding  in  a  straight  direction, 
we  reach  the  richly  decorated  church  of  S.  Severino  e  Sosio 
(PI.  73),  in  the  Largo  S.  Marcellino,  containing  frescoes  by  Co- 
renzio,  who  is  interred  here  (on  the  left  side).  The  choir-stalls 
are  beautifully  carved. 

Adjoining  the  choir  to  the  right  is  the  chapel  of  the  Sanseverini,  con- 
taining three  monuments  of  three  brothers,  who  were  poisoned  by  their 
uncle  in  1516,  works  of  Giovanni  da  Xola.  In  a  chapel  near  the  choir,  to 
the  right,  is  the  tomb  of  Carlo  Troya  (d.  1858j.  In  the  N.  transept  are  the 
monuments  of  Admiral  Vincenzo  Carafa  (d.  1611)  and  the  Duca  Francesco 
de  Marmilis  (d.  1649).  By  the  entrance  to  the  sacristy,  in  the  last  chapel 
of  the  right  transept,  the  tomb  of  a  child,  Andrea  Bonifacio,  ascribed  to 
Oiov.  da  Nola  :,  opposite  to  it  is  that  of  Giambattista  Cicara,  by  the  same 
master,  both  with  inscriptions  by  Sannazaro. 

The  monastery  connected  with  this  church  has  since  1818  been 
the  depository  of  the  Archives  of  the  kingdom,  which  are  among 
the  most  valuable  in  the  world.  Frescoes  and  paintings  by  Corenzio 
adorn  the  interior.  The  40,000  parchment  MSS.  (the  oldest  of 
which  are  in  Greek)  date  from  703  and  include  the  Norman, 
Hohenstaufen,  Anjou ,  Arragonian ,  and  Spanish  periods.  The 
documents  of  the  Anjou  period,  380,000  in  number,  form  no 
fewer  than  378  volumes.  (Permission  to  inspect  them  must  be 
obtained  from  the  director  of  the  Archives.)  —  The  entrance  to 
the  cloisters  is  by  a  gateway  to  the  right  in  the  street  ascending 


56      Routed.  NAPLES.  Castel  Capuano. 

to  the  left  of  the  church.  We  then  traverse  the  arcades  of  the 
first  two  courts ,  and  in  the  next  we  shall  find  the  custodian 
hetween  10  and  3  o'  clock  (l/z-l  fr.j.  The  walls  of  the  cloisters 
are  adorned  with  nineteen  *Frescoes  hy  Zingaro,  unfortunately 
much  damaged  and  of  late  badly  restored,  representing  scenes 
from  the  life  of  St.  Benedict.  These  form  the  master's  hest 
work,  and  are  moreover  the  finest  existing  specimens  of  Neapo- 
litan painting.  (Best  light  in  the  forenoon.)  In  the  open  space 
in  the  centre  is  a  fine  plane-tree  which  is  said  to  have  heen 
planted  hy  St.  Benedict,   and  on  which  a  fig-tree  is  grafted. 

Returning  to  the  principal  street  (p.  0;j),  the  continuation 
of  which  is  called  the  Strada  S.  Biagio  de'  Librai,  we  pass 
the  Monte  di  Pieta ,  or  public  loan-establishment,  on  the  right, 
and  several  churches  and  palaces  of  little  importance.  One  of 
these,  No.  121,  the  Palazzo  Santangelo  (PI.  22),  formerly  named 
Colobrano-Carafa,  dating  from  1466,  once  contained  a  valuable 
collection  of  antiquities  which    are  now  in  the  Museum  (p.  76). 

The  Picture  Gallery  is  shown  by  permission  of  the  Marchese 
Santangelo.  The  1st  Room  contains  modern  Neapolitan  pictures.  —  2nd 
R.  :  Agnello  Falcone,  Battle-piece;  Santafede,  Madonna  with  SS.  John 
and  Andrew  ;  Cap.  Massimi,  Infant  Christ  asleep  ;  Gent.  Bellini,  two  Oriental 
portraits.  —  4th  R.  :  "Diirer,  Garland-weaver,  1508;  Van  Dyck  (?),  Body  of 
Christ.  — 5th  R.  :  ~  School  of  Van  Enck,  Madonna  ('a  tempera1);  Rvbens,  Por- 
trait of  himself  and  Van  Dyck ;  Giiilio  Romano  (?),  Madonna ;  Sandro 
Botticelli,  Madonna;  Wohlgemuth,  Death  of  Mary,  painted  in  1479  for  the 
Volkamer   family  at  Nuremberg. 

After  a  walk  of  5  min.  we  observe  the  broad  new  Via  del 
Duomo  diverging  to  the  left  (see  p.  60),  and  leading  to  the  Via 
de'  Tribunali,  which  leads  straight  to  the  Castel  Capuano  men- 
tioned below. 

We  continue  to  follow  the  Str.  S.  Biagio,  which  after  5  min. 
divides  :  to  the  right  the  Str.  S.  Egeziaca  a  Forcella  leads  to  the  Porta 
Nolana;  to  the  left  is  the  Str.  Annun/.iata  with  the  Church  of  the 
Annunziata  (PI.  of)),  erected  in  1757-82  by  Vanvitelli  (frescoes 
by  Corenzio;  tomb  of  the  profligate  Queen  Johanna  II.).  This  last 
street  is  continued  by  the  Str.  Maddalena,  which  leads  us  to  the 
piazza  immediately  within  the  Porta  Capuana.  On  our  right  here 
is  the  gate  (see  below),  opposite  us  is  the  church  of  S.  Caterina 
a  Formello,  with  a  dome  constructed  in  1523,  and  on  our  left 
is  the  — 

Castel  Capuano  (PI.  F,  G,  3),  founded  by  William  I.,  and 
completed  by  Frederick  II.  in  1231  from  a  design  by  Fuccio, 
once  the  principal  residence  of  the  Hohenstaufen  kings,  and  occa- 
sionally that  of  the  Anjous.  In  1 540  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo  (p.  45) 
transferred  the  different  courts  of  justice  to  this  palace,  where  they 
remain  to  this  day.  The  building  is  therefore  commonly  known 
as  /  Tribunali.  A  visit  to  some  of  these  courts  affords  the  tra- 
veller a  good  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  Nea- 
politan national  character.     The  prison  of  La  Vicaria,   of  evil  re- 


Protestant  Cemetery.  NAPLES.  i.  Route.      57 

pute  ,  is  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  criminal  court.  The  chief 
entrance  of  the  building  is  on  the  other  side,  opposite  the  Strada 
de'  Tribunali  (p.  58).     Omnibuses,   see  p.  25. 

The  Porta  Capuana  was  built  by  Ferdinand  I.  of  Arragon, 
but  was  re-erected  and  decorated  with  sculptures  on  the  outside 
in  1535,  on  the  entry  of  Charles  V.  It  was  designed  by  the  Floren- 
tine Qiuliano  da  Maiano,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  Renaissance 
gateways  in  existence.  Like  most  of  the  other  gateways  at  Naples, 
it  is  flanked  by    two  handsome  round  towers. 

Past  the  outside  of  this  gate  runs  the  Corso  Garibaldi,  which 
extends  from  the  sea  to  the  Strada  Foria  (see  p.  49). 


A  little  way  beyond  the  Porta  Capuana  are  situated  the 
Cemeteries,  the  newest  of  which,  the  *Campo  Santo  Nuovo 
(PI.  I,  1),  l'/2  M.  from  the  gate,  deserves  a  visit.  (Onehorse 
carr.  thither,  see  p.  25  ,  from  the  gate  and  back,  2  ft.)  It  was 
laid  out  by  the  French ,  and  extended  in  1837  at  the  time  of 
the  cholera.  The  situation  is  very  beautiful ,  commanding  de- 
lightful *Views  of  Naples,  the  sea,  and  Vesuvius,  on  which 
the  black  lava  stream  which  destroyed  S.  Sebastiano  in  1872  is 
distinctly  recognisable.  The  cemetery  contains  comparatively  few 
monuments  of  individuals,  but  a  great  many  erected  by  guilds 
and  societies,  most  of  which  are  in  the  form  of  chapels  with 
niches  resembling  the  Roman  columbaria  for  the  reception  of 
the  dead.  Some  of  them  present  an  imposing  appearance ,  but 
few  display  much  taste.  ■ —  The  cemetery  presents  a  most  animated 
and  interesting  spectacle  on  All  Souls'  Day  (2nd  Nov.). 

The  old  cemetery  (Campo  Santo  Vecchio ;  PI.  H,  1),  equally 
distant  from  the  town,  is  now  used  for  the  interment  of  the  poor 
only,  for  which  two  extensive  courts  with  365  vaults,  one  for 
every  day  in  the  year,   are  set  apart. 

The  well-kept  Protestant  Cemetery  (Cimitero  Protestante ; 
PI.  G,  2)  lies  on  the  road  to  the  Campo  Santo  Vecchio,  about 
l/i  M.  from  the  Porta  Capuana.  (Visitors  knock  at  the  gate, 
V2  fr-)  A  very  large  proportion  of  the  names  observed  here  are 
English,   German,   and  American. 


Starting  from  the  piazza  within  the  Porta  Capuana ,  and 
passing  in  front  of  the  dome-covered  church  of  S.  Caterina.  we 
now  follow  the  Strada  Carbonara,  which  leads  in  8  min.  to 
the  Strada  Foria  (p.  48).  Above  us,  on  the  right,  at  the  point 
where  the  street  narrows,   rises  the  church  of  — 

*S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara  (PI.  54;  side-entrance  reached 
by  ascending  the  stairs  and  turning  to  the  right),  erected  in  1344 
from  a  design  of  Masuccio  II.  ('?),   and  enlarged  by  King  Ladislaus. 


58       Route  4.  NAPLES.    S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara. 

The  -Monument  of  King  Ladislaus  (d.  1414),  the  master-piece  of  Andrea 
Ciccione,  erected  by  Johanna  II.,  the  king's  sister,  stands  at  the  back  of 
the  high-altar.  Above  is  the  equestrian  statue  of  Ladislaus;  in  a  recess 
below,  a  sarcophagus  with  the  king  in  a  recumbent  posture,  receiving  the 
benediction  of  a  bishop;  underneath,  Ladislaus  and  Johanna;  and  the 
whole  is  supported  by  statues  which  represent  the  virtues  of  the  deceased. 

The  Chapel  del  Sole,  behind  this  monument,  contains  the  :::Tomb  of 
Sergianni  Caracciolo,  the  favourite  of  Johanna  II.,  murdered  in  1432,  also 
by  Cieciime.  Inscription  by  Lorenzo  Valla.  The  frescoes,  scenes  from  the 
life  of  Mary,  are  by  Leonardo  di  Bisncrio  of  Milan  ,  one  of  the  last  pupils 
of  Giotto.  —  The  Chapel  of  the  Cakaccioli  Rossi,  to  the  left  of  the  high- 
altar,  a  circular  temple  from  the  design  of  Girolamo  Santaeroce,  contains 
statues  by  Giov.  da  SVola ,  Girol.  Santaeroce,  and  others,  and  the  monu- 
ments of  Galeazzo  to  the  left,  and  Colantonio  Caracciolo  opposite,  by  Scilla 
and  Dom.  d'Auria  respectively.  —  The  Sacristy  contains  fifteen  scenes 
from  the  history  of  Christ  by  Vasari,  1546.  —  Adjoining  the  entrance  to 
the  sacristy  from  the  church  is  a  Madonna  delle  Grazie ,  a  handsome 
statue  executed  in  1571.  —  On  the  same  side,  farther  on,  is  a  large  altar 
in  the  form  of  a  chapel,  called  the  Chapel  or  St.  John  the  Evangelist, 
with  good  Renaissance  sculptures  of  the  loth  century.  —  The  Congrega- 
zione  di  S.  Monica  contains  the  monument  of  Prince  Ferdinando  di  Sanse- 
verino  by  Andreas  de  Florentia. 

Near  S.  Giovanni  a  Carbonara  was  once  the  arena  for  gladiator- 
combats,  of  which,  in  the  time  of  Johanna  I.  and  King  Andreas, 
Petrarch  was  a  horror-stricken  spectator. 

From  S.  Giovanni  to  the  Museum  is  a  walk  of  10  min.  (see 
p.  48).    —  We  now  return  to  the  Gastel  Capuano  (p.  56). 


From  the  Piazza  de'  Tribunali,  opposite  the  principal  entrance 
to  the  Castel  Capuano,  the  busy  Straua  de'  Tribunali  (PI.  F,  E, 
3,  4)  leads  in  a  nearly  W.  direction  towards  the  Toledo.  Follow- 
ing this  street ,  we  soon  reach  the  small  piazza  of  8.  Gennaro 
on  the  right,  the  column  in  which  was  erected  after  the  appalling 
eruption  of  Vesuvius  in  1631  (p.  114)  to  commemorate  the  suc- 
cour rendered  by  St.  Januarius.  On  the  summit  is  the  bronze 
figure  of  the  saint    by  Finelli. 

We  next  ascend  the  flight  of  steps  to  the  cathedral  (principal 
entrance  in  the  new   Via  del  Puonio,   see  p.  60). 

The  *Cathedral  (PI.  46),  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  Januarius 
(  S.  Gennaro),  with  its  lofty  towers  and  pointed  arches,  was  begun 
in  1272  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou  in  the  French  style  on  the  site 
of  a  temple  of  Neptune  ,  and  completed  by  Robert ,  grandson  of 
the  founder,  in  1316.  In  1456  the  church  was  nearly  destroyed 
by  an  earthquake,  but  was  afterwards  rebuilt  by  Alphonso  I. 
Since  then  it  has  undergone  frequent  alterations  and  restorations, 
the  last  in  1837,  but  it  still  retains  many  of  its  original  character- 
istics. 

The  edifice  is  a  basilica,  the  aisles  of  which  have  a  Gothic  vaulting. 
The  ceiling-paintings  of  the  Nave  are  by  Santa/ede  (the  square  ones)  and 
Vineenzio  da  Forli  (oval) ;  the  frescoes  on  the  upper  part  of  the  lateral  walls 
are  by  lAira  Giordano  and  his  pupils.  St.  Cyril  and  St.  Chrysostom  are  by 
Sulijiu't/a.  Over  the  principal  entrance  are  the  tombs  of  (1.)  Charles  I.  of 
Anjou  and  (r.)  Charles  Martel,  King  of  Hungary,  eldest  son  (if  Charles  II. 
and  his  wile  Clementia,  a  daughter  of  Rudolph  of  Hapsbiug,  erected  by  the 


Cathedral.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      59 

viceroy  Olivarez  in  J599.  In  the  S.  Aisi.k  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  Januarius 
(the  3rd),  commonly  known  as  the  Cftppelltt-  del  7'exoro ,  adorned  with  a 
marble  facade  and  magnificent  large  brazen  doors.  On  the  right  and  left 
are  two  lofty  columns  of  greinish  marble,  and  above  is  the  inscription: 
'Diro  Januario,  e  fame  bello,  peste,  ac  Yesuvi  igne  miri  opu  sanguinis 
erepta  Neapolis,  civi  patrono  vindici.1  The  chapel  was  erected  in  conse- 
quence of  a  vow  made  during  the  plague  in  1527.  The  work  was  begun 
in  16U8  and  was  completed  in  29  years  at  a  cost  of  a  million  ducats  (about 
225,000  I.  sterling).  The  best  time  for  seeing  it  is  shortly  before  12,  the 
hour  when  the  church  closes. 

The  interior  of  the  chapel,  which  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  is 
richly  decorated  with  gold  and  marble,  and  contains  eight  altars,  forty-two 
columns  of  broccatello,  magnificent  doors  ,  five  oil-paintings  on  copper  by 
Domenichino,  and  several  frescoes  from  the  life  of  St.  Januarius.  The  first 
four  representations,  however,  alone  (tomb  of  the  saint;  his  martyrdom  ;  re- 
suscitation of  a  youth  ;  sick  persons  healed  by  oil  from  a  lamp  which  had 
hung  before  the  "tomb  of  the  saint)  are  entirely  by  Domenichino,  who  along 
with  Gnido  Rem  and  Lanfranco,  intimidated  by  the  threats  of  their  jealous 
Neapolitan  rivals,  Spagnoletto  and  Corenzio  ,  abandoned  the  task  of  paint- 
ing the  dome.  —  The  Sacristy  of  the  Tesoro  contains  pictures  by  Stan- 
zioni  and  Lrtca  Giordano ;  a  costly  collection  of  ecclesiastical  vestments 
and  sacred  vessels  •,  the  silver  bust  of  St.  Januarius,  executed  for  Charles  II. 
in  1306;  forty-five  other  busts  in  silver  of  the  patron  saints  of  the  city, 
and  other  valuable  relics.  —  In  the  tabernacle  of  the  high-altar,  which  is 
adorned  with  a  carefully  covered  relief  in  silver  representing  the  arrival 
of  the  saint's  remains,  are  preserved  two  vessels  containing  the  Blood 
of  St.  Januarins,  Bishop  of  Benevento ,  who  suffered  martyrdom  under 
Diocletian  in  305  (comp.  p.  93).  The  liquefaction  of  the  blood,  which 
according  to  the  legend  took  place  for  the  first  time  when  the  body  was 
brought  to  Naples  by  Bishop  St.  Severus  in  the  time  of  Constantine  ,  is 
the  occasion  of  the  greatest  festival  of  Naples  and  takes  place  three  times 
annually  during  several  successive  days  (1st  Sunday  in  May,  19th  Sept., 
and  16th  Dec. ,  between  9  and  10  a.  m.).  The  protection  of  the  saint 
is  invoked  during  seasons  of  war  or  distress,  and  especially  during  eruptions 
of  Mt.  Vesuvius. 

In  the  S.  aisle,  farther  on,  is  the  Cappella  Brancia  (the  5th),  which 
contains  the  tomb  of  Cardinal  Carbone  by  Bamboccio.  —  In  the  S.  Transept 
is  the  chapel  of  the  Caraccioli,  with  the  monument  of  the  cardinal  of 
that  name  (d.  1668). 

At  the  back  of  the  transept,  to  the  right,  is  the  entrance  to  the 
''Cappella  Minutoli  (open  6-8  a.  m.  only),  constructed  by  Masuccio  (?),  the 
upper  part  adorned  with  paintings  by  Tommaso  degli  Ste/ani  in  the  13th 
cent,  (frequently  retouched),  the  lower  part  by  an  unknown  master ;  monu- 
ment of  the  cardinal  by  Bamboccio ;  altar  by  Pietro  degli  Ste/ani.  —  The 
adjoining  Cappella  Tocca  contains  the  tomb  of  St.  Asprenas  ,  one  of  the 
first  bishops  of  Naples. 

Beneath  the  high-altar  is  the  richly  decorated  ;  C'onfessio,  or  Shrine  of 
St.  Januarius,  with  ancient  columns  and  beautiful  marble  covering,  con- 
taining the  tomb  of  the  saint ;  facing  it,  to  the  left,  is  the  kneeling  figure 
of  Cardinal  Oliviero  Carafa,  who  erected  the  chapel  in  1492-1506.  —  Fresco 
on  the  ceiling  of  the    choir  by  Domenichino,    the  Adoration  of  the   Angels. 

The  Gothic  chapel  of  the  Capece  Galeota,  to  the  left  of  the  high-altar, 
contains  a  painting  of  Christ  between  St.  Januarius  and  St.  Athanasius. 
15th  century. 

In  the  N.  Transept,  by  the  door  of  the  sacristy,  are  the  tombs 
of  (r.) :  Innocent  IV.  (d.  1254  at  Naples) ,  erected  by  the  Archbishop 
Umberto  di  Moutorio  in  1318,  restored  in  the  16th  cent.;  Andreas, 
King  of  Hungary,  who  was  murdered  by  his  queen  Johanna  I.  at  Aversa. 
as  the  inscription  records:  'Andreae  Caroli  Uberti  Pannoniui  regis  f. 
Neapolitanorum  regi  Joannfe  uxoris  dolo  laqueo  necato  I'rsi  Jlinutili 
pietate  hie  recondito' ;  (1.):  Pope  Innocent  XII.  (1'ignatelli  of  Naples; 
d.  1696). 

In  the  N.  Aisle,    near   the   transept,    is    the    Cappella    de*    Seripandi, 


60      Route  4.  NAPLES.  S.  Filippo  Neri. 

adorned  with  an  'Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  by  J'ielro  1'criigino  (1460).  — 
We  next  reach  the  entrance  to  Santa  Restituta  (see  below).  —  In  the 
'2nd  chapel:  Entombment ,  a  relief  by  Giovanni  da  Nola;  above  it 
■St.  Thomas,  by  Marco  da  Siena.  —  In  the  vicinity  (in  the  nave)  is  the 
Font,  an  ancient  basin  of  green  basalt,  with  Bacchanalian  thyrsi  and  masks. 

Adjoining  the  cathedral  on  the  left,  and  entered  from  it  by  a  door 
in  the  left  aisle  (when  closed,  fee  >|2  fr.),  is  the  church  of  "Santa  Resti- 
tuta (PI.  71).  a  basilica  with  pointed  arches,  occupying  the  "He  of  a 
temple  of  Apollo,  to  which  it  is  probably  indebted  for  the  ancient 
Corinthian  columns  in  the  nave.  This  was  the  cathedral  of  Naples  prior 
to  the  erection  of  the  larger  church. 

The  foundation,  erroneously  attributed  to  Constantine  the  Great,  dates 
from  the  7th  century.  In  the  17th  cent,  it  was  restored.  In  the  Chapel 
S.  Maria  del  Principio,  at  the  farther  extremity,  to  the  left,  is  an  ancient 
mosaic  of  the  Virgin  with  St.  Jauuarius  and  Sta.  Restituta,  restored  in 
13'2°,  and  considered  the  earliest  in  Naples  \  whence  the  name  'del  Principio1. 
On  the  lateral  walls  two  remarkable  bas-reliefs  from  an  altar-screen,  sup- 
posed to  date  from  the  8th  cent.,  each  in  fifteen  compartments  \  to  the  left  the 
history  of  Joseph  ;  to  the  right  above,  St.  Januarius,  then  Samson  ;  beneath, 
St.  George.  —  At  the  back  of  the  high-altar  the  Virgin  with  St.  Michael 
and  Sta.  Restituta,  by  ISilvesiro  Buono  (?).  —  The  small  dome  of  the  chapel 
S.  Giovanni  in  Fonte  (closed)  to  the  right,  said  to  have  been  erected  by 
Constantine  in  333,  formerly  the  baptistery  of  the  church,  is  adorned  with  old, 
but  frequently  restored  mosaics  of  Christ,  the  Virgin,  etc.  —  The  altar-piece, 
the  Baptism  of  Christ,  by  Silveslro  Buono  (?).  —  On  the  ceiling  of  the 
nave  a  fresco  by  L/tra  Giordano:  the  body  of  Sta.  Restituta  being  con- 
veyed by  angels  in  a  boat  to  Ischia. 

The  principal  facade  of  the  cathedral ,  which  is  approached 
by  a  flight  of  steps,  looks  towards  the  new  and  broad  Via  del 
Buomo  ,  a  street  diverging  from  the  Strada  Foria  (p.  48)  and 
running  nearly  parallel  -with  the  Toledo.  Many  of  the  densely 
packed  houses  of  the  old  town  have  been  demolished  to  make 
way  for  this  street,  and  it  is  to  be  extended  down  to  the  sea, 
but  for  the  present  it  terminates  at  the  Via  S.  Biagio  de' 
Librai   (see  p.   56). 

Adjoining  the  cathedral ,  on  the  right  as  we  leave  the 
church  ,  is  the  extensive  Archlepiscopal  Palace  (PI.  13),  erected 
in  the  13th  cent.  ,  and  entirely  restored  by  Cardinal  Filo- 
lnarino  in  1647.  The  principal  facade  looks  to  the  Piazza 
Donna    Regina. 

In  the  Str.  Anticaglia  (PI.  F,  3)  are  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  Theatre,  once  apparently  of  considerable  extent,  of  which 
two  arches  still   exist. 


Wc  now  return  to  the  Strada  de'  Tribunali.  After  a  few 
paces,  we  observe  the  small  Largo  iferolomini  on  the  right,  with 
the  church  of  S.  Filippo  Neri  (PI.  47),  or  de'  Gerolomini,  erected 
in   ir>',l'2,   and   overladen   with   ornament. 

Over  the  principal  entrance:  Christ  and  the  money-changers,  a  large 
fresco  by  Lnca  Giordano ;  high-altar-piece  by  G iovanni  Bernardino  Siciliano ; 
lateral  paintings  by  Coremio.  The  sumptuous  chapel  of  S.  Filippo  Neri, 
to  the  left  of  the  high-altar,  contains  a  ceiling- fresco  by  Xolimeiia;  and  that 
of  St.  Francis  of  Assisi  (4th  chap,  to  the  left)  a  painting  by  Gnido  Reni. 
Near  the  latter,  at  the  base  of  a  pillar  in  the  nave,  is  the  tombstone  of 
the  learned  Giambattista  Vico,  b.  at  Naples  1670,  d.  1744.  The  sacristy 
(entrance  to  the  left)  also  contains    paintings. 


S.  Lorenzo.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      61 

To  the  right,  farther  on,  is  situated  S.  Paolo  Maggiore  (PI.  f>7j, 
approached  by  a  lofty  flight  of  steps,  and  occupying  the  site  of  an 
ancient  temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux,  of  which  two  beautiful  Corinthian 
columns  with  part  of  the  architrave  are  still  to  be  seen.  The 
church  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1688 ,  and  rebuilt 
three  years  later  from  a  design  by  the  Theatine  Grimalili ;  it 
contains  numerous  decorations  in  marble,  and  paintings  by  Co- 
renzio,   Stanzioni,   Marco  da  Siena,   and  SoLimena. 

In  the  2nd  chapel  on  the  left  is  the  monument  of  the  minister  Donato 
Tommasi  (d.  1831).  In  the  4th  chapel  to  the  left  is  the  monument  of 
Cardinal  Zurlo  (d.  1801),  with  a  statue.  The  5th  chapel  contains  cahinets 
in  which  fifty-two  relics  of  saints  are  preserved  in  velvet  and  gold  cases. 
—  In  the  passage  to  the  sacristy  (S.  transept)  is  an  old  copy  of  Ra- 
phael's Madonna  del  Pesce.  The  Cloisters  are  said  to  occupy  the  site  of 
the  ancient  theatre  in  which  Nero  performed  as  an  actor.  They  are 
borne  by  twenty-four  ancient  granite  columns.  During  the  Roman  period 
this  was  the   central  point  of  the  city. 

In  the  small  piazza  in  front  of  S.  Paolo,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Strada  de'  Tribunali,  to  the  left ,  is  situated  the  church 
of  *S.  Lorenzo  (PI.  57),  begun  in  the  Gothic  style  by  Charles  I. 
of  Anjou  in  1266  ,  to  commemorate  his  victory  over  King  Manfred 
at  Benevento  (p.  178),  and  completed  by  Robert  in  13'24.  The 
site  is  that  of  the  ancient  Basilica  Auyustalis.  The  plan  of 
the  church ,  according  to  Yasari ,  was  designed  by  Maglione ,  a 
pupil  of  Niccolo  Pisano  ,  but  was  altered  by  Masuccio  11.  in  his 
peculiar  style.  The  portal  and  the  choir  only  are  of  the  Gothic 
period,  the  nave  having  been  almost  entirely  rebuilt  in  the  16th 
century. 

The  three  statues  of  St.  Francis,  St.  Lawrence,  and  St.  Antony,  and  the 
bas-reliefs  on  the  high-altar  are  by  Giovanni  da  Sola  (1478);  St.  Antony, 
in  the  chapel  of  that  saint  in  the  N.  transept,  on  a  gold  ground,  and  the 
Coronation  of  King  Robert  are  liy  Simone  di  Martino  of  Siena.  Jesus 
and  St.  Francis,  a  large  picture  over  the  chief  entrance  ,  is  by  Vincenzo 
C'orso.  —  In  the  retro-choir  behind  the  high-altar,  entering  to  the  right, 
are  the  monuments  of:  (1)  Catherine  of  Austria,  first  wife  of  Charles 
Duke  of  Calabria  (d.  1323) ,  with  a  pyramidal  canopy  and  adorned  with 
mosaics,  by  Masuccio  II  (?)  ,•  (2)  Johanna  di  Durazzo  ,  daughter  of  Charles 
of  Durazzo ,  and  her  husband  Robert  of  Artois ,  both  of  whom  died  of 
poison  on  the  same  day,  20th  July,  1387;  below  are  three  Virtues,  above 
them  two  angels  drawing  aside  the  curtain.  Then,  in  a  closed  space:  (3| 
Mary,  the  young  daughter  of  Charles  of  Durazzo,  killed  at  Aversa  in 
1347.  The  two  last  monuments  are  also  by  Masuccio  II{1).  By  the  entrance 
of  the  church,  on  the  right,  is  the  tombstone  of  the  naturalist  Giambattista 
della  Porta  (1550-1616). 

The  monastery  connected  with  the  church  is  now  used  as  barracks. 
The  Cloisters,  which  we  reach  by  entering  a  gate  to  the  right  of  the 
church  and  then  turning  to  the  left  in  the  entrance  passage,  contain  the 
tomb  of  Ludovico  Aldemoresco,  by  Bamboccio  (1414).  The  Chapteu- 
House  ,  which  opens  off  the  cloisters,  is  adorned  with  frescoes  represent- 
ing all  the  saints  of  the  Franciscan  order.  In  1343  Petrarch  resided  in 
this  monastery;  and  Boccaccio,  when  in  the  church  of  S.  Lorenzo,  beheld 
the  beautiful  princess  whose  praises  he  celebrates  under  the  name  of 
Fiammetta. 

Ill  the  direction  of  the  Toledo,  to  the  left,  is  situated  S.  Pietro 
a  Maiella    (PI.   69),    in    the  Gothic    style,    erected    by   (iiooanni 


62       Route  4.  NAPLES.  Museum. 

Pipino  di  Barletta,  the  favourite  of  Charles  TI.  (d.  1316  ;  his  tomb 
is  in  the  left  transept),  but  afterwards  altered.  In  the  adjacent 
monastery  is  established  the  Conservatory  of  Music  {R.  Collegio 
di  Muxica;  PI.  6),  founded  in  1537,  which  has  sent  forth  a 
number  of  celebrated  composers  (e.g.  Bellini),  and  was  long 
presided  over  by  Mercadante.  A  number  of  valuable  MSS.  of 
Paesiello,  Jomelli,  Pergolese,  and  other  eminent  masters  are  pre- 
served here.  From  this  point  we  reach  the  Piazza  Dante  on  the 
Toledo  (see  p.  4(>). 


IV.    The  Museum. 

In  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  in  the  prolongation  of  the 
Toledo,  at  the  point  where  the  street  takes  the  name  of  Strada 
di  Capodimonte,  and  where  a  street  leading  to  the  Piazza  favour 
diverges  to  the  left,  rises  the  **Museo  Nazionale  (PI.  9;  E,  3), 
formerly  called  I\Iuseo  Reale  Borbonico,  or  gli  Studj.  It  was 
erected  in  15S(i  by  the  viceroy  Duke  of  Ossuna  as  a  cavalry-bar- 
rack, and  in  1615  ceded  to  the  university,  which  was  established 
there  until  1780,  when  it  was  transferred  to  the  Gesu  Vecchio. 
Since  1790  it  has  been  fitted  up  for  the  reception  of  the  royal 
collection  of  antiquities  and  pictures ,  to  which  in  1816  Fer- 
dinand I.  gave  the  name  of  Museo  Iteale  Borbonico.  The  history 
of  the  edifice  is  recorded  on  twelve  marble  slabs  recently  built 
into  the  wall  of  the  vestibule. 

Here  are  united  the  older  and  more  recent  collections  belong- 
ing to  the  crown ,  the  Farnese  collection  from  Rome  and 
Parma,  those  of  the  palaces  of  Portici  and  Capodimonte,  and  the 
excavated  treasures  of  Herculaneum,  Pompeii,  Stabiae,  and  Cuniiu. 
These  united  collections  now  form  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world ; 
the  Pompeian  antiquities  and  objects  of  art  in  particular,  as  well 
as  the  bronzes  from  Herculaneum,   are  unrivalled.  -[- 

The  Museum  is  open  daily,  9-3  o'clock  ;  on  Sundays  gratis, 
on  other  days  admission  1  fr. ;   gratuities  forbidden. 

The  director,  Commendatore  Giuseppe  Fiorelli,  is  now  engaged 
in  re-arranging  the  collections  ,  so  that  our  enumeration  cannot 
at  present  be  perfectly  accurate.  No  Catalogue  has  yet  been 
published  except  for  the  coins,  the  weapons,  and  the  inscriptions; 
but  we  may  mention  the  'Guide  General  du  Musee  National' 
which  has  been  published  by  Dom.  Monaco,  the  conservator  of 
the  museum,  and  which  will  be  found  useful  in  several  respects 
(sold  at  the  book-shops,    price  5  fr. ). 

■;-  The  following  letters  indicate  the.  origin  of  the  different  objects: 
IS.  Hor^ia  collection,  ('.  Capua,  C.  A.  Amphitheatre  of  Capua,  Cii.  Cuinas, 
P.  Farnese  collection,  //.  Herculaneum,  L.  Lucera.  M.  Slinturnsc,  N.  "Naples, 
P.  Pompeii.  Pz.  I'ozzuoli,   S.  Stabise. 


7. 

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Museum.  NAPLES.  i.  Route.       63 

The  Entrance  is  in  the  street  leading  from  the  Toledo  to 
the  Piazza  Cavour.  Sticks  and  umbrellas  must  be  given  up  at 
the  Garderobe,  to  the  left  in  the  gateway.  Tickets  are  obtained 
at  the  second  door  to  the  left.  Custodians  stationed  at  different 
parts  of  the  building  readily  give  information  when  applied  to: 
most  of  them    speak  French. 

_  Permission  to  copy  or  study,  which  is  always  accorded  tn  artists  and 
scientific  men,  is  obtained  by  strangers  on  showing  their  passports  at  the 
begretena  (entered  by  the  second  door,  on  the  second  floor  •  public 
entrance  to  the  library  on  the  first  floor,  p.  74),  where  a  similar  per- 
mission may  be  procured  for  Pompeii  and  Pfestuin.  Free  tickets  for 
Pompeii  (p.  119)  are  also  to  be  had  here. 

(A  room  on  the  right,  opposite  the  Garderobe,  contains  casts, 
models,  photographs  ,  and  copies  of  the  objects  in  the  museum, 
which  are  sold  at  fixed ,  but  high  prices ,  and  a  catalogue  of 
which  may  be  consulted.     Discount  is  allowed  on  large  purchases.! 

The  following  is  a  sketch  of  the  general  arrangements  :  — 

A.   Ground  Floor  (comp.   Plan). 
Right    Side:    Ancient  Frescoes  (p.  64)  ;   beyond  them  ,  Inscription* 

and  several  large  sculptures  (p.  66) ;  then  Egyptian 

Antiquities  (p.  66). 
Left    Side:      Ancient  Marble  Statues  (p.   67);   beyond  them,   the 

Large  Bronzes  (p.  70). 

B.    Entresol.  \ 

Right    Side:     Mediaeval    Works    of  Art  (p.   71);    Ancient    Crystal 

(p.  71);   Ancient   Terracottas  Q>.   71). 
Left   Side:       Cumaean  Antiquities  (p.  72). 

C.    Upper  Floor  (comp.   Plan). 
Right    Side:     Copies    of  Pompeian    Pictures  (p.   72);    Articles  of 

Food    from    Pompeii    (p.    72);     Papyri    (p.    72); 

Engravings  (p.  73);     Pictures  (p.  73;   Italian). 
Immediately  opposite:   Library  (p.  74). 
Left    Side:      Precious  Relics   (p.   74);     Coins   (p.    75);     Pictures 

(p.   75 ;    Neapolitan  and  foreign) ;   Museum  Sant- 

angelo    (p.     76)    and     Vases     (p.     76);     Small 

Bronzes  (p.   77). 

A.     Ground  Floor. 

Leaving  the  entrance  gateway,  we  pass  through  a  glass-door, 
where  tickets  are  given  up,  into  a  large  Vestibule  with  sev- 
eral ancient  statues  from  the  Farnese  collection.  At  the  end 
of  the  vestibule  are  the  stairs  ascending  to  the  upper  floors. 

The  following  are  the  most  interesting  statues  in  the  vestibule:  — 
On  the  right,  by  the  entrance,  Alexander  Scverus;  left,  a  Melpomene 
from  the  theatre  of  Pompey  at  Home,  erroneously  restored  as  Urania. 
By  the  staircase,  r.  Flora;  1.  Genius  of  the  city  of  Rome.  At  each  of 
the  two  doors  leading  to  the  court  are  two  figures  with  the  toga;  by  the 


64      Route  i.  NAPLES.  Museum. 

staircase  two  river-gods.     In   the   staircase  above,    two  Venuses  from  tile 
theatre  at  Hereulaneum. 

The  **  Collection  of  Ancient  Frescoes  ( Affreschi  Pom- 
peiani)  from  Hereulaneum,  Pompeii,  Stabiae,  etc.,  which  we 
first  visit,  occupies  the  right  half  of  the  ground -floor.  These 
paintings  occupy  seven  rooms  and  a  corridor ,  being  grouped 
in  accordance  with  their  subjects  ,  and  each  group  is  furnished 
with  a  Roman  numeral.  The  numbering  of  the  pictures 
themselves  is  still  unfinished.  These  works  are,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  painted  vases  and  mosaics,  almost  the  only  specimens 
of  ancient  painting  which  have  come  down  to  us ,  and  are 
therefore  of  extreme  value.  They  are  our  sole  informants  with 
regard  to  the  ancient  style ,  colouring ,  and  treatment  of  light 
and  shade.  Many  of  them  are  beautifully  conceived,  and  exe- 
cuted with  an  easy,  masterly  touch,  and  they  include  landscapes, 
historical  and  mythological  subjects,  genre  -  paintings ,  archi- 
tectural drawings  ,  and  animal  and  fruit-pieces.  Although  mere 
decorative  paintings  of  a  small  provincial  Roman  town ,  they 
suffice  to  show  how  thoroughly  the  profession  was  imbued  with 
artistic  principles.  Some  of  the  representations  may  be  copies 
from  celebrated  or  favourite  pictures,  but  the  style  is  such  as 
entirely  to  preclude  the  idea  that  they  were  mechanically  copied 
or  stencilled.  The  rapid,  easy  execution  and  absence  of  minute 
detail  prove  that  they  were  intended  for  effect,  and  not  for  close 
inspection.  Their  state  of  preservation  of  course  varies  greatly 
(comp.  Introd.,   pp.   xliii-xlvi). 

I.  Room  (immediately  to  the  right  of  the  place  where  tickets  are 
given  up;  1st  door!,  a  long  corridor:  Architectural  mural  decorations. 
Those  on  the  right  wall,  in  the  centre  ,  group  vii ,  are  from  the  villa  of 
Diomedes  (p.  133);  those  on  the  left  side,  the  further  end,  and  the  farther 
part  of  the  wall  on  the  right  are  chiefly  from  the  Temple  of  Isis  at 
Pompeii. 

II.  Room  :  Animals  ,  fruit ,  still-life  ,  attributes  of  gods,  etc.  —  The 
gallery  of  inscriptions  (p.  b'6)  has  an  entrance  here.  We  now  return  through 
the  1st  Room  to  the  principal  collection. 

The  following  rooms  contain  the  mythological  and  genre  re- 
presentations. Their  enumeration  is  in  the  order  denoted  by 
the  Roman  numerals. 

III.  Room:  xv.  Apollo  and  Diana.  Head  of  Medusa,  xvi-xviii. 
Sea-gods.  In  the  corner  a  ;:Nereid  on  a  sea-panther.  On  the  window- 
wall  Phryxus  and  lielle.  Two  glazed  tables  exhibit  a  well-arranged  col- 
lection of  colours  found  at  Pompeii,  xix.  (above)  Ariadne  and  Bacchus. 
xx.  Sacrilice  to  the  Lares,  xxi,  xxii.  Sacrifice  to  Isis  and  scenes  in  the 
Egyptian  style,  from  the  Temple  of  Isis  at  Pompeii.  —  In  the  passage  to 
the  following  room  :  xxiv.  I'lysses  carrying  off  the  Palladium  from  Troy  ; 
under  it,  Scipio  and  the  dying  Sophonisbe.  xxvi.  Medea  brooding  over 
the  murder  of  her  children. 

IV.  Room  :  (1.)  xxviii.  Hercules  supported  by  Priapus  and  Oinphale. 
xxix.  Perseus  releasing  Andromeda,  xxx.  (below)  Hercules,  Dejanira, 
and  the  Centaur  Nessus.  :xxxi.  Finding  of  the  young  Telepbus  suckled 
by  the  hind  (from  Hereulaneum).  Wounded  j4£neas.  The  Trojan  horse. 
—  In  the  passage  to  the  room  of  the  mosaics:  xxxii.  The  infant  Her- 
cules,   to   the   astonishment  of  his    parents,  strangling  the  snakes  sent  by 


Museum.  NAPLES.  d.  Route.       65 

Juno,  xxxiii.  Genre  scenes  from  Herculaneum;  among  them  a  paintress, 
triclinium,  guitar-player,  musicians;  "attiring  of  a  bride  in  presence  of 
her  mother  and  sister;  Dioscuri.  —  *xxxiv.  Orestes  recognised  by  his 
sister  Iphigenia,  with  Pylades  ,  and  on  the  right  Thoas  and  the  large 
statue  of  Diana.  —  In  tlie  passage:  xxxv.  Comedy  scenes,  xxxvi.  Chastise- 
ment of  Dirce  by  Amphion  and  Zethus  (same  subject  as  the  Farnese  Bull, 
p.  66).  Cimon  nourished  from  the  breast  of  his  daughter  Perone  fa 
favourite  subject  with  modern  artists,  known  as  'Caritas  Roraana1). 
xxxvi i,  Theseus  after  the  slaughter  of  the  Minotaur,  xxxviii.  Scenes 
from  the  forum  of  Pompeii:  in  the  centre,  a  school  (chastisement  of  a 
pupil),  baker's  shop;  mi  the  lei  t.  man  and  wife  (portraits);  small  carica- 
ture of  iEneas,  Anehises,  and  Ascanias,  represented  with  dogs1  heads; 
pensive  Muse,  with  pencil,  xxxix.  "Abduction  of  Brisei's  from  the  tent 
of  Achilles.  "Achilles  being  taught  the  lyre  by  Chiron.  Ulysses  unrecog- 
nised by  Penelope,  xl.  Sacrifice  of  Iphigenia  (from  the  'House  of  the 
Tragic  Poet"1).  *Orestes  and  Pylades  in  presence  of  Iphigenia  at  Tauris.  — 
Adjacent  to  this  room  is  the  — 

V.  Room.  '■Mosaics.  In  the  centre,  on  the  floor:  Triumph  of  Bac- 
chus. —  On  the  entrance  -  wall,  by  the  pillar :  Theseus  killing  the 
Minotaur,  three  copies.  Farther  on,  towards  the  window:  in  the  centre, 
actor  trained  by  a  poet;  on  the  left  and  right  comedy  scene  (by 
Dioscurides  of  Samos,  according  to  the  inscription);  partridges;  two 
cocks  after  the  fight.  —  Under  the  window:  Animals  of  Egypt.  — 
Farther  on:  *Acratus  (companion  of  Bacchus)  riding  on  .'a  lion;  below,  a 
garland  with  masks;  on  the  left,  parrots;  on  the  right,  a  wild  cat  with  a 
partridge;  all  excellent  mosaics  from  the  house  of  the  Faun  (p.  135).  — 
Farther  on,  a  chained  dog  with  the  warning  'Cave  CanenT  (from  the 
threshold  of  the  'House  of  the  Tragic  Poet1,  p.  129).  Below,  a  man  and 
two  cocks.  —  Bight  wall:  a  large  niche,  probably  intended  for  a  foun- 
tain; above  it,  Phryxus  and  Helle;  on  the  left,  the  three  Graces,  the 
marriage  of  Neptune  and  Amphitrite.  —  Then  on  the  wall  of  the  en- 
trance: pugilists  and  arabesques.  —  We  now  retrace  our  steps,  and 
follow  the  arrangement  of  the  pictures  which  is  continued  through 
the  passages  from  the  3rd  Room  to  the  6th,  which  adjoins  it  on  the 
other  side. 

VI.  Room:  In  the  two  passages,  beginning  next  the  window: 
xli-xliv.  Rope -dancing  Satyrs,  "Hovering  Centaurs.  Dancing  Satyrs 
and  Bacchantes,  Rope-dancing  Satyrs,  etc.,  the  latter  in  the  second  pas- 
sage. —  Farther  on  :  ::xlv.  Representations  of  Cupid  ,  among  them  Cupid 
as  a  shoemaker.  :xlvi.  Marriage  of  Zephyrus  and  Chloris  (Xat.  Flora). 
xlvii.  The  three  Graces,  xlviii.  Diana  and  Endymion.  —  By  the  window 
to  the  left:  xlix.  Venus  and  Mars,  several  representations.  Venus  and 
Cupids,     lii.    Triumphal   procession   of  Bacchus.     Bacchus  and  Ariadne.  — 

liii.    Dancers. 

VII.  Room  (more  ancient  paintings  from  the  tombs  of  Ruvo.  Gnatia, 
Paestum,  Capua):  lviii.  Mercury  as  conductor  of  the  dead.  Dance  of  the 
dead.  lix.  Samnite  warriors  in  full  armour,  from  a  tomb  at  Ppestum.  Gor- 
gon head  with  Messapian  inscription.  —  lx.  Narcissus  in  different  attitudes, 
lxi-lxvii.  Landscapes  from  Pompeii,  Herculaneum,  and  Stabise  (118  in 
number).  Mxviii.  Vulcan  showing  Thetis  the  arms  of  Achilles.  Ixx. 
Jupiter  crowned  by  Victoria.  *lxxi.  Io's  arrival  in  Egypt.  Jupiter  and 
Juno  on  Mount  Ida."  Ixxii.  Five  Drawings  on  Marble  (monochromic)  from 
Herculaneum:  Achilles  (?)  in  a  quadriga;  (Edipus  with  Antigone  and 
Ismene;  Latona  with  Niobe  and  other  women  of  Cadmus  playing  at  dice 
(purporting  to  be  by  Alexandros  of  Athens);  Scene  from  a  tragedy;  The- 
seus rescuing  the  bride  of  Pirithous  from  a  Centaur  (V). 

To    the    above  collection  belongs  a  corridor  (entered  from  the 

vestibule  of  the  Galleria  Lapiclaria,   or  by  the  3rd  door  in  the  great 

vestibule)    containing    *  Ornamental    Paintings    (Affreschi    Orna- 

mentali)  from  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum,   being  mural  decorations, 

Baedekei;.     Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  5 


00      Route  4.  NAPLES.  Museum. 

some  of  them  with  raised  stucco  designs  and  reliefs.  They  are 
executed  with  taste  and  precision  and  deserve  careful  inspection. 

In  the  semicircular  space ,  lxxxi.  Valuable  collection  of  decorative 
masks,  lxxxii.  Pillar  with  paintings  from  the  c'ullonica  (fuller's  workshop) 
at  Pompeii  (p.  135),  showing  the  different  processes  of  the  handicraft.  The 
owl  is  the  symbol  of  Minerva,    the  tutelary  goddess  of  fullers. 

The  two  large  central  glass-doors  of  the  vestibule  on  the 
right  and  left  lead  into  Courts,  rilled  with  reliefs,  statues, 
and  architectural  fragments ,  many  of  which  deserve  the  notice 
of  connoisseurs. 

The  wing  connecting  the  \V.  part  of  the  Museum  with  the 
K.  (right)  half  contains  the  *  Gallery  of  Inscriptions  (Galleria 
Litpiduria,  or  Sala  del  Tow),  which  has  other  entrances  both 
from  the  collection  of  the  ornamental  paintings  and  from  the 
second  room  of  the  ancient  pictures  (j>.  64).  Two  most  impor- 
tant ancient  sculptures  are  also  preserved  here  —  the  Farnese 
Bull  and  the  Farnese  Hercules. 

The  collection  comprises  upwards  of  2iJO0  Latin  inscriptions,  others 
in  ((scan,  and  engraved  (graffiti)  and  painted  (dipinti)  mural  inscriptions 
from  Pompeii.  The  collection ,  which  is  arranged  in  accordance  with 
the  geographical  situation  of  the  different  localities  of  discovery,  eonsists 
chiefly  of  epitaphs  ,  but  also  includes  laudatory^  and  other  inscriptions. 
Among  the  bronze  tables  are  the  celebrated  Tables  of  Heradert  (p.  2Ut)) , 
bearing  on  one  side  regulations  as  to  temple  lands  in  the  ancient  Greek 
language,  and  on  the  other  (inscribed  at  a  later  date)  the  Italian  munici- 
pal laws  promulgated  by  Csesar  in  B.  C.  46.  A  cabinet  contains  leaden 
pipes,  inscriptions  from  aqueducts  ,  etc.  —  The  following  large  sculptures 
are  also  placed  here:  to  the  left  at  the  entrance  a  statue  of  Tiberius,  to 
the  right  Atreus  with  the  son  of  Thyestes  (?),  sometimes  taken  for  Hector 
with  the  body  of  Troilus  (comp.  lntrod.,  p.  xxxiv).  In  the  i'RiNCiPAL  Room, 
on  the  left,  is  the  celebrated  group  of  the  -'Farnese  Bull,  a  work  of  Apol- 
lonius  and  Tauriscus,  the  Rhodian  sculptors,  once  in  possession  of  Asinius 
Pollio,  and  found  in  the  Therma;  of  (Jaracalla  at  Rome  in  a  sadly  mu- 
tilated condition.  The  restoration  of  the  group  was  superintended  by 
Michael  Angelo.  The  new  parts  are  the  head  of  the  bull,  the  Antiope,  with 
the  exception  of  the  feet ,  the  upper  parts  of  Dirce,  and  considerable  por- 
tions of  Amphion  and  Zethus.  The  two  sons  of  Antiope,  Amphion  and 
Zethus,  avenge  the  wrongs  of  their  mother  by  binding  Dirce,  who  had 
succeeded  in  withdrawing  the  affections  of  Lycus  from  Antiope,  to  the 
horns  of  a  wild  bull.  Antiope  in  the  background  exhorts  them  to  forgi- 
veness. The  boldness  and  life  of  the  group,  originally  hewn  out  of  a  single 
block  of  marble  ,  is  unrivalled  in  any  other  work  of  the  same  character 
(comp.  lntrod.,  pp.  xxxii— xxxvi).  Opposite,  on  the  right  side  of  the  room, 
stands  the  so-called  '''Farnese  Hercules,  also  from  the  Thermo:  of  (Jaracalla. 
The  legs  were  at  first  wanting,  but  were  restored  by  Delia  Porta;  twenty 
years  later  the  genuine  missing  portions  were  discovered,  and  having  been 
presented  by  Prince  liorghese  to  the  King  of  Naples,  were  restored  to  the 
statue.  According  to  the  inscription,  it  is  the  work  of  the  Athenian  Glycon, 
and  was  probably  executed  under  the  early  emperors. 

Descending  a  staircase  in  this  hall,  and  passing  through  a 
room  containing  Christum  Inscriptions  from  the  catacombs  of  Home 
and  Naples  built  into  the  walls,  we  reach  the  Egyptian  Anti- 
quities, a  considerable  number  of  which  were  purchased  from  Car- 
dinal Borgia's  collection  at  Vell.jtri.  The  arrangement  is  complete, 
with  the  exception  of  the  numbering. 

1st    Room.      In    the    centre    Serapis .     found    in     the    vestibule    of   the 


Museum.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       67 

Serapeum  at  Pozzuoli.  Isis,  a  marble  statuette  from  the  temple  of  Isis 
at  Pompeii,  holding  a  sistrum  and  the  keys  of  the  Nile,  with  interesting 
traces  of  gilding  and  painting.  On  the  short  wall,  Horns  with  a  dog^s  head. 
The  cabinets  contain  a  valuable  collection  of  small  statuettes. 

2nd  Room.  In  the  centre:  by  the  window,  a  granite  tombstone  with  twenty- 
two  hgures  in  relief  and  hieroglyphics.  Egyptian  priest,  a  so-called  LPasto- 
phorus1,  in  black  basalt.  By  the  walls  six  glass  cabinets  with  all  kinds  of 
trinkets,  etc.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance,  the  second  immured  tablet  is  the  so- 
called '■Table  of  Isis1 ,  from  the  temple  of  Isis  at  Pompeii.  By  the  window- 
wall  a  papyrus  with  Greek  writing  ,  dating  from  the  2nd  or  3rd  cent.  ,  which 
with  forty  others  was  found  at  Memphis  in  a  chest  of  sycamore  wood, 
and  contains  names  of  the  canal  labourers  on  the  Nile.  Opposite  the 
entrance  a  number  of  mummies  of  men,  women,  and  children,  some  of 
them  divested  of  their  cerements  and  admirably  preserved  (the  skull  of 
a    female  mummy  still  retains  the  hair).     Also  the  mummy  of  a  crocodile. 

The  left  (W.)  half  of  the  ground-floor  contains  the  valuable 
collection  of  marble  sculptures  and  the  bronzes. 

The  ^Collection  of  Marble  Sculptures  occupies  the  great 
corridor  with  three  branches,  and  the  rooms  situated  beyond  the 
second  branch.  The  new  arrangement  in  accordance  with  the 
local  and  historical  position  of  the  works  is  practically  complete. 
The  final  numbering  has  not  yet  taken  place.  The  numbers 
given  in  the  following  list  are  those  on  small  yellow  tickets 
attached  to  the  objects.  It  is  best  to  begin  with  the  N.  corri- 
dor (third    door    on  the  left  from  the  vestibule),  the  — 

Corridor  of  the  Masterpieces  (Portico  de1  Capolavorf), 
which  contains  the  finest  works  in  the  collection ,  affording  a 
review  of  the  development  of  the  ancient  plastic  art  from  the 
5th  cent.  13.0.  down  to  the  reign  of  Hadrian  and  his  successors. 
This  part  of  the  collection  in  particular  supplies  the  visitor 
with  an  admirable  illustration  of  the  history  of  ancient  art,  and 
includes  moreover  several  works  of  the  highest  merit. 

:"  624.  Hera  (Farnese  Juno),  of  the  early  type,  austere  in  expression,  pro- 
bably copied  from  the  ideal  of  Polycletus  (lntrod.,  p.  xxx)  \  ':84.  Orestes 
and  Electra,  a  group  which  has  given  rise  to  much  discussion  ,  probably 
belonging  to  the  revived  archaic  style  introduced  by  Pasiteles  towards  the 
end  of  the  republic  (lntrod.,  p.  xxxviv)  ;  150.  Minerva,  archaic  style,  from  ller- 
culaneum ;  522.  Diana,  archaic,  with  painting,  from  Pompeii;  ::7G.  Ilarmodins 
and  Aristogeiton,  the  slayers  of  the  tyrant  Hipparchus  of  Athens,  a  copy  of  the 
bronze  statues  erected  to  them  at  Athens  about  B.C.  500  (head  of  Aristo- 
geiton  ancient,  but  originally  belonging  to  some  other  statue,  sec  lntrod., 
p.  xxxi)  ;  8.  Athlete  (Doryphorus),  after  Polycletus,  from  the  pala'stra  of 
Pompeii  (lntrod.,  p.  xxx);  Dying  Amazon,  Dead  Persian ,  Dead  (Haul, 
and  Wounded  Gaul,  of  the  l'ergamenian  school,  all  belonging  to  the  group 
of  votive  offerings  on  the  Acropolis  of  Athens,  presented  by  King  Attains 
about  B.C.  200  (lntrod.,  p.  xxxii) ;  Adonis,  freely  restored.  "644.  Venus 
of-S'apua:  it  is  uncertain  how  this  statue,  which  greatly  resembles  and  is 
little  inferior  to  the  Venus  of  JMilo  in  the  Louvre,  ought  to  be  restored. 
The  pedestal  and  the  arms  are  modern.  On  Corinthian  coins  Venus,  the 
tutelary  goddess  of  the  city,  is  represented  in  a  similar  attitude,  in  the  act 
of  using  a  shield  as  a  mirror,  but  it  is  mure  probable  that  the  Capuan 
statue  had  a  figure  of  Jlars  standing  beside  her,  whose  helmet  she  trod 
under  her  left  foot,  and  from  whom  she  was  taking  his  sword.  ;  ^Pschines, 
once  erroneously  called  Aristides,  an  admirable  draped  statue,  found  at 
the  villa  of  the  papyri  at  llerculaneum.  '■'■'•'■psyche  <>/  Capua,  sadly  muti- 
lated; she  was  probably  represented  with  her  hands  bound  behind  her, 
being  tortured  by  Cupid.      '■' \rctt/ts  Callipyju*  ■  so  called  from  that    part     of 

5* 


68      Route  4.  NAPLKS.  Museum. 

her  body  towards  which  she  is  looking,  found  in  the  imperial  palaces 
at  Koine';  the  head,  breast,  right  leg,  right  hand,  and  left  arm  are  mo- 
dern. —  The  adjacent  room  to  the  right  contains  a  large  basin  in  por- 
phyry ,  valuable  columns,  a  marble  basin,  etc.  —  *645.  Ho  mer ,  a  beau- 
tiful bust;  "Satyr,  carrying  the  child  Bacchus  on  his  shoulder ;  Pallas,  ar- 
chaic, from  Velletri;  Brutus  and  Pompeii,  two  busts  found  in  a  house 
in  Pompeii  in  1860;  100.  Juno;  1736.  Nereid,  on  a  sea-monster;  "Agrippina, 
a  sitting  portrait-statue;  349.  Arilinous,  the  favourite  of  Hadrian;  bust  of 
Auloniuvs  Pius ;   Plotina ;  Caraenlla  ;  torso  of  Venus;  torso  of  Bacchus. 

The  Corridor  of  Portrait  Statues  and  Busts,  which  we 
next  enter,  is  sometimes  called  the  Portico  dei  Balbi,  from  the 
noble  family  of  that  name,  the  most  distinguished  at  Hercu- 
laneum. 

To  the  right,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  corridor,  torsi,  dogs,  leopards,  boar 
sacrilices,  small  equestrian  statue  of  a  warrior  (freely  restored).  "Eques- 
trian Statue  of  M.  Nonius  Balbus ,  found,  like  that  of  his  son  at  the  op- 
posite end  of  the  passage,  in  the  basilica  of  Ilerculaneum.  Farther  on,  the 
fourth  statue  on  the  left.  Statue  of  the  Priestess  En machia  of  Pompeii,  erect- 
ed by  the  fullers  in  her  honour  (p.  127);  2458.  Statue  of  Marcus  Holconius  Rufus, 
a  Roman  military  tribune,  and  live  times  mayor  of  Pompeii;  also  two 
orators  from  Pompeii.  On  the  right,  590.  portrait-statue  of  an  orator  from 
Herculanenm.  —  Then  Boman  Poiitkait  Busts,  with  pedestals  in  the 
Roman  style,  in  four  rows,  one  above  the  other:  in  the  lowest,  514,  606, 
569.  three  examples  of  a  so-called  Seneea;  629.  Altilins  Regulus;  11.  Brutus 
the  younger:  493.  Brutus,  the  elder;  in  the  upper  row,  608.  Cicero.  — 
Farther  on,  in  the  centre,  651.  Double  herines  of  an  unknown  Greek  and 
Human.  Double  hermes  of  Herodotus  and  Thucydides.  Between  these, 
two  sitting  statuettes,  one  of  them,  505.  representing  the  poet  Moschion. 
A  room  containing  the  Battle  of  Alexander  here  opens  to  the  right  (sec 
p.  69).  —  On  the  right,  farther  on.  148.  Socrates,  a  hermes  with  a  Greek 
inscription.  —  Then  statues:  *51.  M.  Nonius  Balbus,  the  father;  "43.  Vi- 
ciria  Archas,  the  wife  of  Balbus,  a  stately  matron.  Opposite,  to  the  left, 
a  son  a.nd  four  daughters  on  the  same  pedestal  (a  fifth  of  the  group  is 
in  the  Dresden  Museum).  All  of  these  are  honorary  statues  which  the 
municipal  council  of  Herculaneum  erected  to  the  family  in  their  theatre. 
—  Xext.  come  four  rows  of  GitEEK  Busts,  one  above  the  other,  most  of 
thein  being  in  the  Greek  hernial  form:  Below.  575.  Demosthenes;  587, 
588.  564.  Euripides.  Second  row:  563.  Socrates;  580.  Zeno;  593.  Poseido- 
uins;  602.  Aratus,  the  astronomer:  589.  Sophocles;  591.  Carneades;  582. 
Herodotus;  08G.  Lysias.  Third  row:  568.  Solon ;  583.  Periander;  613. 
Themislocles;  611.  Ayatlmcles.  (Many  of  the  busts,  both  Greek  and  Ro- 
man, are  either  unknown  or  erroneously  named.)  —  Equestrian  Statue  of 
Balbus  the  Younger,  "praetor  and  proconsul1.  —  Genre  figures  of  children; 
a  hunter.  Several  Dacians  from  the  Forum  of  Trajan  at  Rome;  two  bar- 
barians   as    supporters,   in    pavonazetto,    the  head  and  hands  in  basalt. 

We  now  pass  by  the  statue  of  the  younger  Balbus  into  the  — 

Corridor  of  the  Roman  Kmperors  (Portico  degli  Imperadori), 
the  arrangement  of  which  begins  at  the  farther  end,  by  the  en- 
trance, from  the  passage.  It  contains  statues  and  busts  in  chro- 
nological  order,    of  a  more   nr  less  ideal  character. 

Left,  !2L5.  Caesar,  a  bust.  Bight,  249.  Statue  of  Caesar.  L.  258.  Au- 
gustus, a  statue,  sitting.  R.  574.  Livia.  L.  631.  Tiberius,  a  bust;  204.  Dru- 
sus ,  a  statue  from  Pompeii;  242.  Caligula,  with  reliefs  on  his  armour; 
233.  Claudius,  a  sitting  statue;  241.  Nero,  a  busf -.  216.  Galba,  214.  Otho, 
busts;  218.  Vitelline,  a  statue;  210.  Vespasian,  a  colossal  bust ;  236.  Trajan. 
a  statue;  22.  /•'austina,  a  bust.  K.  253.  217.  Hadrian,  busts.  L.  220.  An- 
toninus Pius,  251.  Marcus  Aurelius ,  461.  Faustina,  busts;  255.  Lucius  Veens. 
a  statue.     Then,   207.   Septimiiis  Sererus,  240.   Probus,  etc. 

The  Skvin  Rooms  beyond  the  Portico  dei  Balbi  also  have 
their  contents  arranged  according  to  subjects.    Among  much  that 


Museum.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       69 

is  mediocre  there  are  a  few  works  of  great  excellence.  The  ar- 
rangement begins  with  the  jrorts,  in  the  room  opposite  the  en- 
trance to  the  collection  of    bronzes  (p.   70"). 

I.  Room  :  Jupiter,  Juno,  Apollo,  Diana,  Ceres.  In  the  centre,  Apollo. 
in  a  sitting  posture,  in  porphyry,  the  head  and  hands  in  marble;  a  work 
of  the  decline  of  art  during  the  imperial  period,  when  a  taste  prevailed 
for  rare  kinds  of  stone  which  were;  difficult  to  work.  Right:  Diana  of 
Ephesus,  in  yellow  alabaster,  the  head,  hands,  and  feet  in  bronze;  her 
symbols  indicate  the  fecundity  of  the  goddess  of  nature.  Left:  Apollo,  in 
basalt.  Posterior  wall :  622.  Jupiter,  a  bust  from  the  temple  of  Pompeii  (p. 
127);  Jupiter,  colossal  half-statue  from  Cumse  ;  on  the  right,  187.  bernies  of 
the  ram-horned  Jupiter  Amnion. 

II.  Room:  Venus,  Mars,  Mercury,  Minerva,  Bacchus.  Among  the  nu- 
merous statues  of  Vvnus  (eight  from  Pompeii,  including  a  statuette  found 
in  18(3,  interesting  from  its  being  painted)  are  several  with  portrait  heads. 
In  the  centre,  on  the  right  Mars,  sitting:     on  the  left,  Mercury. 

III.  Room:  Satyrs,  Ganymede,  Cupid,  Cybele,  etc.  —  Left:  Satyr  with 
a  bunch  of  grapes;  ''Pan  teaching  the  young  Bacchus  the  flute;  Ganymede 
with  the  eagle;  ''Winged  Cupid,  resembling  an  original  by  Praxiteles.  In 
the  centre:  on  the  left,  Cnj.'id  encircled  by  a  dolphin,  fountain-figure;  on 
the  right,  Atlas,  bearing  the  globe;  I  SB.  Paris:  *  123.  ^Esculapius ,  from 
Rome.  On  the  short  wall:  Masks  of  river-gods,  once  used  as  water-spouts. 
Nymph  before  the  bath.  Three  Priestesses  of  Jsis.  Cybele,  the  mother  of  the 
gods,  enthroned. 

IV.  Room:  Statues  of  Muses  from  Herculaneum;  several  figures  of 
Hercules.  By  the  window,  head  of  Ajar.  In  the  centre,  Amazon,  falling 
from  her  horse;    "Hercules  and   Omphale,  a  group  in  the  genre  style. 

V.  Hall  or  the  Floka.  By  the  principal  wall :  The  :  Earn  esc 
Flora  from  the  Baths  of  Caracalla  at  Rome.  The  head,  arms,  and  legs 
were  restored  by  Uiaeomo  della  Porta,  and  afterwards  by  Albaccini  and 
Taglioni.  It  is  not  improbable  that  the  figure  once  represented  a  Venus.— 
In  front  of  it  is  the  '■"'Mosaic  of  the  Battle  of  Alexander ,  found  in  1  S3 1 
in  the  house  of  the  Faun  at  Pompeii.  This  work,  which  is  almost  the 
only  ancient  historical  composition  in  existence,  represents  the  battle  at 
the  moment  when  Alexander,  whose  helmet  has  fallen  from  his  head, 
charges  Darius  with  his  cavalry,  and  transfixes  the  general  of  the  Persians 
who  has  fallen  from  his  wounded  horse.  The  chariot  of  the  Persian  mon- 
arch is  prepared  for  retreat,  whilst  in  the  foreground  a  Persian  of  rank, 
in  order  to  ensure  the  more  speedy  escape  of  the  king,  who  is  absorbed 
in  thought  at  the  sight  of  his  expiring  general,  oilers  him  his  horse  (In- 
trod.  p.  xli).   —    Also  four  statues  of  gladiators. 

VI.  Room:  Reliefs.  In  the  centre  a  beautiful  ''-Marble  Vase  with  a 
relief:  Mercury,  followed  by  dancing  Bacchanalian  figures,  gives  the  young 
Bacchus  to  a  nymph  to  be  brought  up.  According  to  the  inscription  it  is 
the  work  of  a  certain  Xalpiou  of  Athens;  it  was  found  at  Formia,  and  was 
long  used  as  a  font  in  the  cathedral  of  Gaeta  (conip.  Introd.,  p.  xxxiv).  To 
the  left  of  the  entrance,  also  on  a  pedestal,  is  a  fountain  enclosure  with 
seven  gods:  Jupiter,  Mars,  Apollo,  ^-Esculapius ,  Bacchus,  Hercules,  and 
Mercury.     There   are   also    three,    other    fountain    enclosures  in  the  centre. 

-  By  the  wall,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  an  early  Attic  Cijipus,  of  the 
middle  of  the  5th  century.  Then  sarcophagi,  fountain-masks,  and  numerous 
one  ilia,  or  reversible  marble  discs  and  masks,  which  used  to  be  hung  up 
by  way  of  ornament  between  the  columns  of  peristyles. 

VII.  Room  :  Reliefs.  Left:  :18G.  Aphrodite,  seconded  by  I'eitho(persuasion), 
endeavouring  to  induce  Helen  to  follow  Paris  (Alexandrus),  who  with  Cu- 
pid stands  before  her,  a  Greek  work;  Bacchanalian;  :";>2S.  Apollo  with  the 
Graces  for  Alcibiades  with  three  hetserse) ;  sarcophagus;  Battle  of  Amazons 
and  Bacchanalian  procession.  —  On  the  pillar  between  the  windows  : 
Gladiator  contests  from  the  monument  of  Scaurus  at  Pompeii  (p.  132); 
sarcophagus  with  Prometheus  and  man  as  yet  uninspired  witli  life,  sur- 
rounded by  beneficent  gods.  —  Third  wall:  320.  Uaucla-Ko  dP  lcario,  or 
banquet    of    the     drunken     Bacchus:     tropseum.     framed     with    caryatides. 


70      Routed.  NAPLES.  Museum. 

Above:  Cupids  in  the.  circus ;  274.  Nymph  defending  herself  against  a 
satyr.  o'^O.  Seven  Female  Figure*,  dancing,  with  names  attached:  the 
three,  traces  (Euphrosyne,  Aglaia.  and  Thalia),  then  Ismene  ,  Cycais  ,  and 
Eranno,  probably  three  nymphs,  and  a  smaller  figure  called  Telonnesus, 
of  doubtful  import,  perhaps  the  name  of  a  town.  Below,  a  Baccha- 
nalian procession.  'Orpheus  and  Eurydice,  with  Hermes,  in  the  infernal 
regions  (see  Introd.,  p.  xxxi).  —  Fourth  wall:  Sarcophagi.  431,  433,  435. 
Three  representations  of  Asiatic  provinces.  —  In  the  centre:  Honorary 
I'edeslal  from  Pozzuoli,  with  figures  representing  fourteen  towns  of  Asia 
yiinor  which  the  Enip.  Tiberius  rebuilt  after  an  earthquake,  each  figure 
being  furnished  with  its  name.  Then  two  large  Candelabra,  with  herons, 
and  two  Bacchic   :  Vases. 

In  the  adjoining  Passage  are  handsome  ornamental  works  in  marble: 
tables  with  basins  for  fountains;  candelabra,  among  which  is  a  stooping 
sphinx  from  Pompeii;    feet  of  tables;    tables.    —    From  this  passage  we 
again  enter  the  Portico   dei  Balbi  (see  p.  68). 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Portico  dei  Balbi  is  the  entrance  to  the 
'■^'Collection  of  Bronzes,  most  of  which  are  from  Hereulaneum,  and 
a  few  only  from  Pompeii.  Their  respective  origins  are  distinguished 
by  their  different  colours.  The  pressure  of  the  masses  of  lava 
has  imparted  a  dark,  black-green  hue  to  the  bronzes  of  Hereula- 
neum, while  those  of  Pompeii,  which  were  much  more  exposed  to 
moisture,  are  oxydised,  and  of  a  light,  bluish  green  colour.  This 
collection  is  unrivalled,  and  deserves  careful  and  repeated  in- 
spection. The  number  and  magnitude  of  the  works,  the  delicate 
treatment  adapted  to  the  material,  and  the  skilful  mastery 
of  every  kind  of  difficulty  in  casting  and  chiselling  afford  an  ex- 
cellent insight  into  the  high  development  of  this  branch  of  art 
in  ancient  times. 

I.  Room.  Animals.  ^Colossal  horse's  head ,  found  at  Naples ,  for- 
merly in  the  Pal.  Colobrano  (S.  Angelo),  and  long  supposed  to  be  the  cogni- 
sance of  the  city.  It  belonged  to  a  horse  which  is  said  to  have  stood  in  the 
vestibule  of  the  temple  of  Neptune  (S.  Oennaro),  and  to  have  been  destroyed 
by  the  clergy  on  account  of  the  veneration  with  which  it  was  regarded. 
:l!orse  from  Hereulaneum,  belonging  to  a  quadriga,  and  reconstructed 
from  minute  fragments.  ;::Two  deer.  Several  animals  once  used  as  foun- 
tain-figures. —  In  the  corners  of  the  room:  by  the  entrance,  to  the  left, 
and  by  the  opposite  exit,  two  Greek  Hermes,  perhaps  intended  for  a 
pakestra ,  the  projecting  props  being  for  the  support  of  wreaths.  The 
first  bears  the  name  of  the  sculptor,  Apollonius ,  son  of  Archias  of 
Athens.     At  the  entrance,  on  the  right,  is  a  so-called    Sappho;    opposite, 

Diana  Shooting,  a  half-figure. 

II.  Room.  Statuettes.  In  the  centre:  Bacchus  icilk  a  Satyr  (.eyes  new, 
as  in  many  of  the  others).  Two  equestrian  statuettes ,  an  Amazon  and 
Alexander  the  Great.  "Venus  arranging  her  hair,  with  a  mirror  in  her 
left  hand.  Flying  Victory,  on  a  globe.  Angling  fisherman,  a  fountain- 
figure.  Boy  with  goose.  —  Beyond  the  last,  the  ""Dancing  Faun,  found  in  the 
large  house  at  Pompeii  called  the  'Casa  del  Fauno'  (p.  135).  —  In  front  of  it  a 
so-called  '  ' Xareissus,  perhaps  a  Pan  listening  to  Echo,  and  a  Silenus  used  as 
the  bearer  of  a  vase  (with  handle  very  unsuitably  made  in  imitation  of  the 
body  of  a  serpent).  —  The  window-cabinet  contains  a  number  of  boys  with 
pipes  or  masks,  once  used  as  fountain-figures.  Silenus  with  a  panther.  Youth- 
ful Bacchus.  —  In  tile  cabinet  to  the  right  beyond  the  window  are  all 
kinds  of  Fancy  Figures ,  chiefly  gladiators.  Small  Busts:  Demosthenes, 
Epicurus,  Zeno ,  Augustus.  Hands  with  quaint  emblems,  us<'d  as 
amulets  to  avert  the  danger  of  the  'evil  eye'.  Above  these,  Lares 
(household  gods),  youths  adormd  with  wreaths  and  bearing  drinking- 
horns    and  vases.    —    Opposite  the  window  :   Statuettes  of  Gods:  Hercules, 


Museum.  NAPLES.  1.  Route.      71 

Victoria,    Fortuna,    Bacchus,    Mercury,    Minerva,    Jupiter,  etc.  —  Wall  of 
the  entrance  :    Etruscan   Mirrors,  the  backs  adorned  with  engraved  scenes. 

III.  Principal  Room.  In  the  centre:  ®  Drunken 'Faun.  On  each  side  a  copy 
of  the  statue  of  a  Runner.  To  the  right  beyond  these:  Apollo  playing  the 
lyre,  from  Pompeii,  a  work  of  the  archaistic  school  of  Pasiteles,  about,  the 
beginning  of  the  Kmpire.  To  the  left  beyond  it,  Apollo  Shooting.  On  the 
right  before  the  latter,  ''Head  of  Apollo  in  the  archaic  style.  '■"'Mercury 
Reposing.  To  the  left  before  the  last,  so-called  'Head  of  Seneca.  *  Sleeping 
Satyr.  —  Along  the  walls,  beginning  on  the  right  by  the  entrance  near 
the  window:  Statue  of  Nero  Drusu.s,  sacrificing;  M.  Claudius  Mareellus, 
the  nephew  of  Augustus,  who  died  young.  Then,  Apollo,  a  statuette;  a 
female  Portrait-statiie ;  *  Sacrificing  Boy  (Camillas).  —  Farther  on,  Bust  of 
Sulla;  female  Portrait-statue  (Li via,  consort  of  Augustus).  Between  the 
doors,  Archytas  of  Tarentum,  with  bandaged  head  ;  above  it,  on  a  bracket, 
Ptolemy  Philadelphia.  *  Three  Dancing  Women,  from  the  theatre  of  Her- 
culaneum  (three  corresponding  figures  on  the  opposite  side).  On  a  short 
column,  the  philosopher  Democritus  (?').  On  a  bracket  above  it,  a  male 
Portrait-head.  —  N.  Wall:  '"Female  Head  with  hair  restored  (erroneously 
called  Ptolemy  Apion).  Statue  of  a  Roman  magistrate.  Portrait-head. 
Statue  of  Augustus  as  Jupiter.  Head  of  a  so-called  Berenice  (eyes  and 
lips  lined  with  silver  when  discovered).  Statue  of  Claudius  as  Jupiter. 
Female  Portrait-statue  as  a  'Pieta1  from  Herculaneum  (mother  of  Bal- 
bus?).  —  Farther  on,  by  the  pillar  between  the  doors,  "Heraclitus  (!). 
On  a  console,  Young  Tiberius.  Three  Dancing  Women  from  Herculaneum 
(see  above).  *  On  a  short  column,  'Head  of  a  bearded  Dionysus,  com- 
monly called  Plato.    Above  it,  Lepidus. 

IV.  Room.  Weapons.  In  the  centre  'Equestrian  Statite  of  Nero, 
found  at  Pompeii  (p.  129).  By  the  window:  Bust  of  Scipio  Africa/tits. 
Opposite.  Bust  of  C.  Caesar.  ■—  The  cabinets  contain  a  choice  Collection 
of  Weapons,  (detailed  descriptions  hung  up  at  the  entrance).  —  E.  Wall  : 
Greek  armour,  helmets,  and  weapons,  found  at  Psestum ,  Ruvo,  and 
Canosa.  —  N.  Wall:  Helmets  of  gladiators  and  richly  decorated  armour 
from  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum.  Above  these,  283.  Helmet  with  the 
Taking  of  Troy  ;  '2SS.  Shield  with  head  of  the  Medusa.  —  W.  Wall  :  Italian 
weapons*,  among  them  a  cock,  a  Samnite  boundary  figure  from  Pietrabbon- 
dantc  (Bovianum).  —  S.  Wall.  Catapult  balls,  etc. 

B.    Entresol. 

The  Entresol  ( Ital.  Mezzanino")  contains  on  the  right  the  Re- 
naissance objects .  and  beyond  them  the  ancient  crystals  and 
terracottas,  on  the  left  the  Cumjean  collection  and  the  'Controlleria1, 
or  inspector's  office. 

The  Collection  of  Renaissance  Works  (Raccolta  degli  Ogyetti 
del   Cinquecento)  is  arranged  in  two  rooms. 

I.  Room.  In  the  centre:  a  large  bronze  tabernacle,  the  design 
ascribed  to  Michael  Angela,  executed  by  Jacopo  Sieiliano.  Left:  bust  in 
bronze  of  Ferdinand  of  Arragon.  Busts  in  marble  of  Paul  III.  and 
Charles  V.  Right:  Medusa  after  Canova  •,  an  altar  with  reliefs  in  marble 
of  the  German  school,  representing  the  Passion  in  seven  sections. —  II.  Room  : 
Indian  and  Chinese  paintings,  and  all  kinds  of  Asiatic  curiosities.  The  ca- 
binets contain  weapons,  seals,  carved  amber  and  ivory,  etc. 

The  next  room  contains  the  Collection  of  Ancient  Crystal 
(Vetri),  the  most  extensive  of  the  kind  in  existence,  showing 
the  numerous  ways  in  which  it  was  used  by  the  ancients. 

Several  panes  of  glass  from  the  villa  of  Diomedes  should  be  inspected; 
also  a  beautifully  cut  glass  ;:vase  with  white  Cupids  and  foliage  on  a  blue 
ground,  discovered  in  1837  in  a  tomb  in  the  Street  of  the  Tombs  at 
Pompeii,  when  it  was  filled  with  ashes. 

Adjacent  is  the  Collection  of  Ancient  Terracottas. 


72      Routed.  NAPLES.  Museum. 

I.  Room  :  Common  earthenware  articles  for  household  use.  Among  them 
are  vessels  with  beans,  wheat,  almonds,  egg-shells,  plums,  olives,  etc.  from 
Pompeii.  In  the  passage  to  the  second  room,  on  the  left  Artemis,  right  Me- 
dusa. —  II.  Room.  Several  Etruscan  sarcophagi  with  recumbent  figures  on 
the  lids.  Numerous  lamps.  In  the  cabinets  figures  of  small  animals:  horses,  pigs, 
birds,  also  hands  and  other  votive-offerings,  such  as  are  still  to  be  seen  in 
Roman  Catholic  churches-,  infant  in  swaddling-clothes,  legs,  right  half  of  a 
human  figure.  Bv  the  window,  to  the  right,  a  colossal  Juno;  left,  Jupiter  from 
the  small  temple  of  .ffiseulapius  at  Pompeii  (p.  142).  By  the  door  of  egress, 
to  the  right,  the  fragments  of  the  celebrated  Volscian  relief  from  Velletri, 
in  the  ancient  Italian  style,  with  traces  of  colouring  :  warriors  on  horseback 
and  in  chariots.  —  III.  Room:  Lamps,  goblets,  votive  limbs;  in  the  cab- 
inets opposite  the  door  interesting  heads,  detached,  and  in  relief,  also 
statuettes.  Iiv  the  window  two  comic  figures,  in  front  of  them  a  small 
painted  statuette.  By  the  wall  of  egress,  fine  reliefs  and  statuettes  in 
terracotta;  also  moulds  employed  in  their  execution. 

The  central  story  contains ,  on  the  left ,  the  Cumsean  Col- 
lection, which  was  purchased  by  the  Prince  of  Carignano  from 
the  heirs  of  the  Count  of  Syracuse  and  presented  to  the  Museum. 
It  consists  chiefly  of  vases,  terracottas,  and  bronzes  found  at  Cum* 
(see  p.    100). 

By  the  window  of  the  Fikst  Room  an  elegant  jewel-casket  in  wood, 
with  several  gold  ornaments.  In  the  Second  Room  tables  with  small 
objects  in  bronze,  gold,  and  crystal;  an  interesting  head  in  wax  from  a 
Roman  tomb.  Among  the  vases  at  the  window  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
later  Attic  style,  under  glass,  representing  a  battle  between  Amazons  and 
Oreeks. 

C.     Upper  Floor. 

From  the  top  of  the  stairs  we  lirst  turn  to  the  left  to  the 
E.  wing.  On  opposite  sides  of  the  passage  which  we  enter  are 
two  rooms  containing  Copies  of  Pompeian  Pictures,  Remains  of 
Food,  and  other  objects  from  Pompeii. 

The  copies  of  Pompeian  pictures  merit  careful  inspection,  as  they 
serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  brilliant  colouring  of  these  ancient  walls 
when  they  were  first  discovered.  The  Room  on  the  Left  also  contains 
several  glass  cabinets  with  "Articles  of  Food  and  objects  in  Common  Use 
at  Pompeii.  In  the  centre  a  handsome  bottle  with  oil.  In  the  round 
glass  cabinet  by  tie  window:  below,  a  double  pan  with  meat;  in  the 
centre  a  glass  vessel  with  barley:  above,  glass  tubes  with  olives.  —  In 
the  glass  cases  to  the  right,  beyond  the  window:  bones,  eggs,  remains 
of  fish,  almonds,  onions,  dates,  nuts,  pears,  etc. :  also  fifteen  round 
loaves,  one  of  which  bears  the  baker's  name,  Q,.  Cranius.  stamped  upon 
it.  In  the  glass  cases  to  the  right  of  the  entrance:  snails'  and  other 
shells,  tortoises,  clothing  materials,  straw  sandals,  purse  with  three 
coins  (from  the  Villa  of  Diomedes),  corks,  etc. 

In  the  Room  on  the  Right:  a  glass  cabinet  containing  the  skull, 
arm,  and  impression  of  the  breast  in  compressed  ashes,  of  a  girl,  found 
in  the  Villa  of  Diomedes.  'Model  in  wood  of  the  'House  of  the  Tragic 
Poet'  at  Pompeii  (p.  129).  Models  of  the  amphitheatres  of  Pompeii  and 
Capua.     Models  of  the  temples  of  Psestum. 

Next,   on  the  right,   is  the  Library  of  the  Papyri. 

This  collection  was  discovered  in  a  villa  near  Herculaneum  in  1752. 
The  rolls  were  completely  encrusted  with  carbonaceous  matter ,  and  it 
was  only  by  slow  degrees  that  the  real  value  of  the  discovery  was 
appreciated.  '  About  3000  wen'  discovered,  of  which  1800  only  have  been 
preserved.  The  thin  layers  of  the  bark  ilihri)  of  the  papyrus' plant,  each 
of  the   breadth  of  one   column   of  writing,   are  pasted   togHher  and 'rolled 


8 


% 

a, 


Museum  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       73 

on  rods,  and  the  difficulties  encountered  in  disengaging  them  may  he 
imagined.  The  task  was  long  attempted  in  vain  ,  until  the  Padre  Piaggi 
invented  an  ingenious  machine  by  which  the  difficulty  was  removed. 
Several  of  these  may  he  seen  at  work  in  the  second  room.  Several 
hundred  of  these  lihri  have  been  by  degrees  unrolled,  and  whatever  of 
their  contents  has  escaped  obliteration  has  been  published  in  the  Volumina 
Heraeleensia.  The  library  belonged  to  a  follower  of  the  Epicurean  school, 
and  the  recovered  MSS.  are  by  no  means  of  general  interest.  They  con- 
tain treatises  in  Greek  by  the  Epicurean  Philodemus,  a  contemporary  of 
Cicero,  on  nature,  music,  rhetoric,  etc. 

Here,  in  a  separate  room,  are  also  preserved  the  triptych p  (about  8(H)) 
found  in  a  carbonised  box  at  Pompeii  in  June  187:").  containing  private 
bonds  without  general  interest. 

Opposite  these  rooms  is  the  Collection  of  Engravings,  per- 
mission to  inspect  which  must  be  obtained    from  the    custodian. 

This  room  also  contains  an  admirable  "Bust  of  Dante  in  bronze, 
said  to  have  been  modelled  from  a  cast  taken  from  the  poet's  features  after 
death.  On  the  walls  are  hung  several  *I')r;i wings  and  sketches  by  great 
masters,  among  which  may  be  mentioned:  Michael  Angela,  Group  from 
the  frescoes  in  the  Cappella  Paolina  at  Home:  Raphael,  Madonna  col 
divino  amore  ('see  below);  Michael  Angelo,  Venus  and  Cupid;  Raphael, 
Moses  at  the  burning  bush. 

Following  the  passage  in  a  straight  direction,  we  next  enter 
the  *  First  Section  of  the  Picture  Gallery,  containing  master- 
pieces of  the  Italian ,  as  well  as  the  Neapolitan  school.  The 
collection  has  recently  been  re-arranged.  Catalogues  in  each 
room .  The  7th  and  8th  rooms  comprise  the  chefs  d'eenvre ; 
the  contents  of  the  others  are  of  subordinate  importance. 

I.  ItooM  (Roman  School):  o.  Claude,  (v>uay  at  sunset  ;  12.  School  of 
Raphael  (V),  Female  Portrait;  27.  Saxsoferra/o,  Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  5 

28.  Raphael,  Madonna  delle  Grazie,  a  copy  ;  55.  R.  Mengs,  Ferdinand  IV. ; 
47.    Pannini,  Charles  III.   visiting  Benedict  XIV. 

II.  Room  (Schools  of  Parma  and  Genoa):  1.  Bernardo  Strozzi,  Portrait 
of  a  Capuchin  ;  9.    School  of  Correggio,  Mead  as  a  study. 

III.  Room  (Lombard  School)  :  11.  School  of  Leonardo,  John  the  Baptist ; 
15.  Same  School,  Madonna  with  two  donors  of  the  picture*,  17.  Cesare  da 
Scsto,  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  one  of  the  master's  chief  works;  :18.  Leonardo^ 
School,    The   young   Christ  and   John   kissing    each    other;    19.    Madonna-, 

29.  A.   Bronzino,  Portrait. 

IV.  Room  (Venetian  School) :  1.  School  of  Mantegna,  Suffering  Christ*, 
4.  Lviyi  Vicarial,  Madonna  enthroned,  with  two  monks-,  9,  13,  16,  22,  25, 
28,  etc.  Canaletto,  Views  of  Venice;  19.  Tiber io  Tinelli,  Portrait;  39. 
Moretto,  Scourging  of  Christ.  —  Proceeding  hence  in  a  straight  direction 
we    reach  the  5th,   and,  turning  to  the  right,  the  7th  and  8th  rooms. 

V.  Room  (various  schools) :  5.  Pann.eygianino,  Madonna  (tempera) ;  15. 
Giorgionei'i),  Portrait  of  the  Principe  di  Salerno.  —  -19.  L.  Lotto,  Madonna 
with  St.  Peter  the  Martyr;  21.  Titian  (V),  Penitent  Magdalene.  —    27.  Palnia 

Vecrhio,  Madonna,  saints,  and  donors;  33.  Pivturicchio,  Assumption;  :35. 
Bart.  Yicarini,  .Madonna  enthroned,  with  bishops;  above  it,  36.  Breughel, 
Penitent  deceived  by  the  world  (tempera);  36.  School  of  Pen/gino,  God 
the  Father;  ::40.  Parmeggianino,  Portrait  of  his  daughter;  *51.  Mignard, 
Portrait  of  Fenelon. 

VI.  Room  (various  schools):  4.  Velasquez,  A  number  of  drinkers, 
and  Bacchus,  a  copy;  14.  Mantegna,  S.  Eufemia  ;  2  K  Angela  Bronzino, 
Venus  and  Cupid  kissing  each  other,  from  the  cartoon  of  Michael  Angclo 
mentioned  above;  37.  I  nknown  master  (attributed  to  IIotl>ein),  Portrait 
of  Erasmus.  We  now  return  to  the  4th  room,  from  which  the  collection 
of  the  master-pieces  is  reached. 

VII.  Room  ("Sala  dei  Correggio1):  1.  Salrator  Rosa,  Christ  and  the 
scribes  :    2.    Sebastian   del    Piotubo,    Mary    watching   the  sleeping    infant    Je- 


74      limtU4.  NAPLES.  Museum. 

sus  ;  3.  Cvrrengiv,  Madonna,  named  la  Zingarella,  or  del  Ccmiglio  (rabbit); 
-i.  Van  I>nck\  Portrait;  '5.  Titian,  Panac ;  6.  Correggio ,  Betrothal  of 
St.  Catharine ;  8.  Titian ,  Portrait  of  Paul  III ;  9.  Correggio  (?),  Descent 
(coin  the  Cross;  11.  Titian,  Portrait  of  Philip  II.;  12.  itpagnoletto,  St.  Se- 
bastian; 13,  14.  St.  Jerome,  hv  the  same  master;  15.  Gtiercino,  Magdalene ; 
16.  Rubens,  Monk. 

VIII.  Room  CSala  dei  Raffaello'):  On  the  left,  :  17.  Giulio  Romano,  Holy 
Family,  called  .Madonna  del  Gatto;  '18.  Raphael  (?),  Portrait  of  the  Cavaliere 
Tibald'eo  ;  19.  Giovanni  Bellini,  Portrait ;  "20.  Raphael,  Holy  Family  (Madonna 
col  divino  amore),  of  the  master's  Roman  period  ;  21.  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Copy 
of  Raphael's  portrait  of  Leo  X.,  with  Cardinals  Giulio  de'  Medici  and  Rossi  (at 
Naples  this  picture  is  declared  to  be  the  original) ;  22.  Raphael,  Portrait  of  Car- 
dinal Passcrini  :  23.  Lvini,  Madonna  ;  24.  And.  del  Sarto  (?),  Portrait;  25. 
Adoration  of  the  Magi;  '26.  Christ  on  the  Cross,  both  by  Netherlands 
masters ;  27.  Breughel,  The  seven  blind  men ;  "28.  Nativity  (date  1512), 
ascribed  to  Diirer:  29.  Reriigino,  Madonna ;  !31.  Hvbert 'ran  Enek  (?),  St.  Je- 
rome extracting  the  thorn  from  the  lion;  !32.  il.  Yennsti,  Copy  of  Michael 
Angclo's  Last  Judgment,  before  its  disligurement;  "33.  Giovanni  Bellini, 
Transfiguration;  34.  Holy  Family,  master  unknown;  35.  Parineggianino, 
Lucretia  ;  36.   Saniafede,  Madonna  and  saints. 

Returning  to  the  exit,  we  may  obtain,  to  the  left,  in  pass- 
ing, a  glimpse  through  the  central  staircase  at  the  principal  hall 
of  the  Library. 

It  contains  numerous  ancient  Italian  works  (200,000  vols.,  4000  MSS. I 
and  valuable  Creek  MSS.  (among  which  Lycophron's  Alexandra,  (^uintus 
Smyrmeus ,  date  1311),  and  Latin  (e.  g.  Charisius,  Ars  grammatica ;  the 
half  burned  MS.  of  Festus:  a  mass-book  with  beautiful  miniatures  of  fruit 
and  flowers,  called  la  Flora);  catalogues  for  the  use  of  visitors.  In  the 
principal  hall  the  custodian  awakens  a  remarkably  line  echo.  Books  are 
not  lent  out,  but  within  the  library  three  may  be  used  at  a  time  (8-2 
o'clock).  Readers  enter  from  the  outside  (not  through  the  museum)  by 
the  last,  door  reached  by  the  staircase  to  the  right  in  the  museum  build- 
ings.    The  arrangements  are  sadly  defective. 

We  now  traverse  a  passage ,  and  beyond  it  turn  to  the 
right  into  a  room  containing  the  collection  of  Precious  Belies, 
consisting  of  ancient  cut  stones ,  and  trinkets  in  gold  and 
silver. 

By  the  'Window,  the  celebrated  *Taz,ia  Farnese,  a  vessel  of  onyx 
with  beautiful  reliefs,  the  largest  of  its  kind.  On  the  outside  a  large 
Medusa's  bead  in  relief;  in  the  inside  a  group  of  seven  persons,  referred 
by  some  to  the  occasion  of  an  inundation  of  the  Nile,  by  others  to  a 
festival  in  spring,  instituted  by  Alexander  at  the  foundation  of  Alexandria. 

Tables  in  the  Centke.  The  first  near  the  window  contains  the 
Cameos,  or  stones  cut.  in  relief,  many  of  which  are  very  interesting: 
16.  Zeus  in  conflict  with  the  Titans,  by  Anthemion ;  32.  Head  of  Medusa; 
44.  A  fine  head  of  Augustus.  —  65.  Part  id'  the.  group  of  the  Farnese 
bull,  which  it  is  intruded  to  restore  to  its  place:  under  it,  1857.  Head  of 
a  Vestal.  —  Adjacent  arc  the  Inltigli,  or  stones  on  which  the  designs  re- 
cede ISO  placed  that  the  designs  arc  seen  through  the  stone):  209.  Ajax  and 
Cassandra:  213.  Apollo  and  Jlarsyas;  392.  Bacchante.  —  A  table  in  the 
next  row  also  contains  cameos  and  intaglios.  —  There  is  also  an  in- 
teresting table  containing  ancient  J.'i/igs,  including  a  gold  ring  with  a 
male  portrait,   possibly  of  Brutus,  with   the  artist's  name  Anaxilas. 

Three  Cai:inets  by  the  wall  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  contain 
well-executed  tilijeets  in  Silver:  Vases,  goblets,  tablets,  spoons,  buckles: 
also  objects  in  ivory,  medallion  reliefs,  etc.  In  the  1st  Cabinet,  six  fine 
large  vases.  In  the  2nd  Cabinet,  in  the  second  compartment,  six  goblets 
with  foliage,  and  a  small  sun-dial.  In  the  3rd  Cabinet,  in  the  upper 
compartment,  vase  in  the  shape  of  a  mortar,  with  the  apotheosis  of 
Homer:  three  handsome  tripods:  rings  from  Greek   tombs  at  Armcnto  in 


Museum.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       75 

the  Basilicata:  silver  plate  from  the  house  of  Meleager  at  Pompeii, 
including  two  handsome  goblets  with  centaurs. 

Along  the  opposite  wall,  Object*  in  Gold.  1st  Cabinet  by  the  window, 
above,  on  the  i*ight:  Nor.  1-4.  Chain,  bracelet,  and  a  pair  of  earrings, 
which  were  found  with  a  female  skeleton  in  the  house  of  Diomedes  at 
Pompeii-,  then,  186,  187.  Two  cloak  clasps;  two  massive  buckles  in 
the  form  of  serpents;  diadem  from  Venosa;  handsome  necklaces,  etc. 
Adjacent,  on  a  column,  under  glass:  large  gold  lamp  from  Pompeii, 
admirably  executed  and  well  preserved.  On  a  second  column,  also  under 
glass:  gold  trinkets  from  a  tomb  at  Taranto.  In  the  2nd  Cabinet, 
numerous  gold  rings,  earrings,  objects  in  crystal,  etc. 

The  next  door  to  the  right  leads  to  the  Reserved  Cabinet  (Kaccolta 
Pornografica),  to  which  men  only  are  admitted;  it  contains  mural  and 
other  paintings  not  adapted  for  public  exhibition,  and  numerous  bronzes 
of  considerable  artistic  merit. 

Opposite  the  collection  of  Precious  Relics,  on  the  left  side 
of  the  passage ,  is  the  Collection  of  Coins  (Medagliere) ,  which 
within  the  last  few  years  has  been  suitably  and  tastefully  arranged, 
and  is  of  almost  unrivalled  value  and  extent. 

The  First  Room  contains  the  Greek,  the  Second  and  Third  the  Ro- 
man ,  the  Fourth  the  mediaeval  coins ,  and  the  Fifth  the  dies  of  the 
Neapolitan  mint,  together  with  a  numismatic  library.  Catalogues  arc 
placed  over  the  glass-cases  for  the  use  of  visitors.  In  the  corners: 
Busts  of  distinguished  numismatists.  —  The  Museo  Santangelo  (p.  76) 
adjoins  the  5th  room,  but  is  not  accessible  thence. 

We  next  proceed  in  a  straight  direction  from  the  above- 
named  passage  to  the  uninteresting  Second  Section  of  the 
Picture  Gallery,  chiefly  containing  works  of  the  later  Italian  and 
Neapolitan  masters. 

1st  Room  (Bolognese  School):  To  the  right,  by  the  door,  62.  Lavinia 
Fontana  ,  Christ  and  the  Samaritan  woman;  then,  38.  Romanelli,  Sibyl: 
55.  Ann.  Caracci,  Rinaldo  and  Armida;  69.  Caravaggio,  Judith  and  Holo- 
phernes ;   71.  Ann.   Caracci,  Landscape  with  St.  Eustachius. 

2nd  Room  (Tuscan  School):  2.  And.  del  Sarto,  Madonna,  a  copy;  22. 
Mazolla,  Pieta,  and  saints;  26.  Lor.  di  Credi  ,  Madonna;  29.  Florentine 
School,  Madonna  enthroned;  30.  Matteo  da  Siena,  Murder  of  the  Innocents; 
31.  Sandro  Botticelli,  Madonna;  33.  Florentine  School,  Pope  Liherms  found- 
ing S.  Maria  Maggiore  (ad  nives)  at  Rome;  43.  Dom.    Pvligo,  Portrait. 

3rd  Room  (Neapolitan  School):  6.  Zingaroi'i),  Madonna  and  saints  ;  *3l.Sim. 
Papa,  Elder,  St.  Michael  with  SS.  Jerome  and  James  and  the  donors. 

4th  Room,  adjoining  the  last  on  the  right,  contains  Byzantine  works, 
badly  preserved  and  freely  restored. 

5th  Room  (Neapolitan  School):  5.  Criscuolo,  Adoration  of  the  Magi: 
51.  L.  Giordano,  St.  Xavier  baptizing  the  Indians  (painted  in  three  days); 
53.  Traversa,  Girl  with  doves  ;  54.  Pacecco  di  Rosa,  Madonna  ;  61.  Spagno- 
Ictto,  Joseph  and  the  Infant  Christ;  :67.  Li/ca  Giordano ,  Madonna  del 
Rosario;  68.  Bon  Gargiulo,  Smokers.  --  A  large  cabinet  in  the  centre  from 
the  sacristy  of  the  monastery  of  S.  Agostino  rirgli  Scalzi  contains  objects 
artistically  inlaid  with  ivory,  amber,  and  glass.  A  cabinet  by  the  wall  of 
the  exit  contains  majolicas.  Then  the  :'*Cassett<t  Furnese  in  bronze,  executed 
by  Giovanni  de1  Bernardi ,  with  six  large  and  beautifully  cut  stones: 
Meleager  and  Atalanta,  Procession  of  the  Indian  Bacchus,  Circus  games. 
Battle  of  the  Amazons,  Battle  of  the  Centaurs  and  Lapitha?,  Battle  of 
Salamis. 

6th  Room  (German  School):  7.  Portrait  of  a  cardinal,  master  unknown; 
12.  Breughel (1),  Landscape;  22.  Amberger{1),  Portrait;  41.  Ln>\  Cranach, 
Christ  and  the  adulteress. 

7th  Room  (Netherlands  Schools):  [.Rembrandt,  Portrait;  12.  Netherl. 
School,  Portrait;  36.  Crucifix,  after  Van  Dttck;  61.  Collection  of  miniatures 


76      Route  4.  NAPLES.  Museum. 

of  the  House  of  Farnese  ;  73.  Mierevelf,  Portrait;  78.  Ferd.  Bol,  Portrait; 
85.  Van  ('eaten,  Portrait;  89.  Nabvsson,  Villa  Medici  at  Rome.  —  Entrance 
hence  into  the  collection  of  bronzes,  .see  p.  77. 

From  the  6th  Room  of  the  paintings  we  enter  a  circular  room, 
the  first  of  the  collection  of  vases  (see  below),  and  pass  thence 
to  the  left  into  the  Museo  Santangelo,  which  occupies  three 
rooms.  This  museum  was  formerly  in  the  Pal.  Santangelo,  but 
was  purchased  by  the  city  of  Naples  in  1865  and  placed  under 
the  care  of  the  Museo  Nazionale. 

1st  Roo.u  :  Vases.  In  the  cabinet  in  the  centre,  a  vase  with  Baccha- 
nalian scene.  In  the  middle  of  the  cabinet  on  the  left,  Bacchanalian  feast 
with  an  armed  dancing  woman.  To  the  right  by  the  window  a  "cabinet 
with  drinking-horns  (rhyta). 

2nd  Room:  Terracottas  and  Small  Bronzes.  On  the  left,  by  the 
entrance  ,  a  vase  from  Nola,  with  the  return  of  Hephsestus  to  Olympus. 

3rd  Room:  Collection  of  Coins,  one  of  the  most  extensive  in  Italy 
(about  43,000  in  number),  particularly  valuable  on  account  of  its  ancient  Ita- 
lian specimens.  Catalogue  by  Fiorelli  recently  published.  On  the  table  by 
the  window  an  interesting  selection  of  'aes  glare'  and  other  Italian  coins. 
Also  several  large  vases:  by  the  window  a  vase  with  Pelops  and  CEno- 
maus.  In  the  centre  a  vase  with  Orpheus  in  the  infernal  regions.  Oppo- 
site tl.e  entrance,  to  the  right,  'Mercury  and  Spes,  relief  mosaics  from 
Metapontum,  unique  of  their  kind.     Cock-light. 

We  now  return  to  the  ** Collection  of  Vases,  which  begins 
with  the  circular  room  mentioned  above ,  and  occupies  seven 
rooms.  It  is  very  extensive  and  valuable ,  and  is  particularly 
rich  in  specimens  of  the  handsome  vases  of  Lower  Italy. 
The  specimens  placed  by  themselves  on  short  columns  are  the 
finest  in  the  collection.  —  As  Greek  vase-painting  was  adopted 
by  the  Etruscans  and  modified  according  to  the  national  taste, 
so  this  branch  of  art  was  strongly  influenced  in  Lower  Italy, 
and  especially  in  Apulia ,  by  the  peculiar  character  of  its  inhab- 
itants. The  vases  here  are  of  large  and  imposing  dimensions, 
and  the  artists ,  not  satisfied  with  the  decoration  of  paint- 
ing alone,  have  frequently  superadded  reliefs  to  adorn  the  necks 
and  handles.  Their  aim  appears  to  have  been  to  cover,  if  pos- 
sible ,  the  entire  surface  of  the  vase  with  the  colours.  The 
different  series  of  representations,  one  above  another,  which  they 
bear,  are  often  without  connection  ;  or  the  centre  is  occupied  by 
an  architectural  design  and  surrounded  irregularly  with  groups. 
The  figures  are  generally  of  a  somewhat  effeminate  mould,  and 
great  care  appears  to  have  been  bestowed  on  the  delineation  of 
rich  but  scantily  folded  garments.  The  representations  are  for 
the  most  part  borrowed  from  the  ancient  Greek  tragedy,  but  in 
some  cases  scenes  of  a  more  Italian  character  are  observed.  The 
period  of  their  manufacture  is  believed  to  have  been  shortly 
after  the  reign   of  Alexander  the  Great. 

The  floors  of  the  rooms  are  paved  with  ancient  but  freely  restored 
.Mosaics.  —  Tin-  numbers  given  in  the  following  enumeration  are  those 
on  yellow  paper  afiixeil  to  tin'    vases. 

1st  Room.  The  vases  in  tlie  2nd  anil  3rd  cabinets  (to  the  right,  count- 
ing from  the  entrance  from  the  picture-gallery ).    and    the    three  placed  on 


Museum.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       77 

columns  in  front  of  them  are  specimens  of  the  earliest  stage  of  this  art. 
They  are  of  a  yellowish  colour,  ornamented  with  two  rows  of  plants  or 
animals  of  hrownish  or  black  colour,  ami  are  round  or  oval  in  form.  The 
1st  and  4th  cabinets  contain  Etruscan,  the  others  (J reek  vases,  some  of 
them  beautifully  shaped,  hut  all  black  and  nnpaintcd. 

2nd  Room.  Pavement  from  the  house  of  Diomedes  at  Pompeii.  By 
the  window  two  models  of  tombs,  which  illustrate  the  manner  in  which 
the  vases  were  discovered.  As  the  ornaments,  weapons,  etc.  of  the  de- 
ceased were  deposited  with  his  remains  in  the  tomb,  so  also  were  these 
vases  which  had  adorned  his  home-,  in  some  cases,  however,  the  nature 
of  the  subjects  leads  to  the  conclusion  that  they  were  manufactured  for 
this  express  purpose.  Next,  by  the  entrance,  to  the  right,  15S7.  Electra  and 
Orestes  mourning  at  the  tomb  of  Agamemnon.  2711.  Hunt  of  Meleager  \ 
on  the  left,  3231.  Condemnation  of  Marsyas;  on  the  right,  2034.  Orestes 
seeking  refuge  from  the  Furies  at  the  statue  of  Artemis-  to  the  right,  on 
a  tripod,  ::2718.'  Vase  from  Ruvo  ,  the  largest  yet  discovered,  adorned 
with  a  battle  of  Amazons  and  Greeks-  on  the  right,  225S.  Marriage  of 
Bacchus  and  Ariadne  ("from  Ruvo):  to  the  left  of  the  exit,  2**28.  Hercules 
carrying  oft'  the  tripod,  pursued  by  Apollo. 

3rd  Room.  On  the  right,  1183.  Beautiful  vase,  partly  ribbed,  but 
little  painted;  on  the  left,  2717.  Large  vase,  with  Artemis  in  a  chariot 
drawn  by  stags;    2716.     Large  vase  with  the  death  of  Archemnrus. 

4th  Room.  Chi  the  right,  in  the  corner.  2709.  Ajax  and  Cassandra; 
en  the  second  column,  on  the  right,  2HS3.  Perseus  releasing  Andromeda; 
2021.  Tereus  on  horseback  pursuing  Pro  cue  and  Philomela;  2025.  Marriage 
of  Bacchus  and  Ariadne.  In  the  corner,  2710.  Achilles  with  the  bndv 
of  Hector.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  2882.  The  celebrated  large  vase  of 
Darius  from  C'anosa :  Darius  planning  the  conquest  of  (Greece;  above  is 
Hellas,  at  whose  side  Athene  and  Zeus  are  standing;  beneath  are  the 
Persian  provinces  on  which  subsidies  are  levied  for  the  war,  with  accom- 
panying names.  Adjacent,  under  a  glass  shade,  ::  Leeytlius  (vase  for  oint- 
ment) with  reliefs  of  Marsyas  and  Apollo.  On  the  h/tt.  2774.  Sacrifice  of 
Patroclus. 

5th  Room.  On  the  right,  by  the  entrance,  2347.  Apotheosis  of  Her- 
cules. On  the  second  column,  to  the  right,  2027.  Orestes  in  the  temple 
of  Artemis;  235' l.  Large  vase  with  Bacchanalian  sacrifice  and  battle  of 
Centaurs.  2/12.  Rape  of  the  golden  tlecce  (from  Ptestumj.  To  the  left, 
farther  on,  2357  (under  glass),  Vase  with  lid,  Bacchanalian  sacrifice: 
2350.  Battle  of  Amazons;  "2360  (under  glass).  Destruction  of  Troy  ;  the 
last  three  being  from  Nola. 

6th  Room.  Several  vases  and  large  basins  from  Nola,  Bari.  and  other 
places. 

7th  Room:  In  the  centre  a  large  vase  from  Altamora,  with  Orpheus 
in  the  infernal  regions.    In  the  corners,  vases  from  Ruvo. 

The  entrance  hence  to  the  small  bronzes  is  closed.  AVe  there- 
fore proceed  to  the  principal  entrance  in  the  7th  room  of  the 
picture-gallery  (p.   76). 

The  collection  of  the  **  Small  Bronzes,  the  finest  of  its  kind 
in  existence ,  consists  chiefly  of  household  utr,nsils .  lamps, 
candelabra,  tools  of  all  kinds,  musical  and  surgical  instruments, 
weapons,  etc.,  most  of  them  found  at  Pompeii,  and  is  admirably 
adapted  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  life  and  habits  of  the  ancient 
Italians.  The  use  of  most  of  the  objects  is  too  obvious  to  re- 
quire explanation. 

1st  Room:  The  most  valuable  objects  are  in  the  centre.  Ky  the  en- 
trance, a  ''Candelabrum  from  the  villa  of  Diomedes ,  a  small  Bacchus 
riding  on  a  panther,  and  a  pilaster  adorned  with  a  mask  and  bucranium 
fskull  of  an  ox),  on  a  square  pedestal;  the  lamps  hang  from  four  branches  \ 


78      Route  i.  NAPLES.  Riviera  cli  Chiaja. 

those  at  present  placed  there  are  not  the  original.  To  the  right,  farther 
on,  a  Triclinium  and  a  Biscllium  (seat  of  honour).  At  the  third  corner 
of  the  central  group,  a  'Tripod  for  sacrifices,  richly  decorated,  from  the 
temple  of  Isis  at  Pompeii.  Then  a  large  Kettle  and  iron  Blocks  from  the 
gladiators'  barracks  at  Pompeii,  near  which  three  skeletons  were  found. 
Maths.  Two  "Pitchers  with  double  handles.  Table-support  with  Victoria 
and  trophies.  A  movable  Stove.  By  the  window,  Bisellia  (seats  of  honour) 
decorated  with  horses'  heads,  swans,  and  inlaid  silver  ornaments.  —  In  the 
cabinets  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  handsome  lamps,  and  candelabra 
above. 

2nd  Room  :  A  "Model  of  Pompeii,  faithfully  representing  the  ruins,  on  a 
scale  of  1  :  100,  but  still  unfinished.  —  Along  the  walls  numerous  bronze 
vessels  and  candelabra. 

ord  Koom  :  A  Triclinium,  or  three  dining-sofas,  each  for  three  persons 
(the  table  was  placed  in  the  middle).  Three  Money-chests,  which  were 
once  used  in  the  atrium  of  an  ancient  house,  from  Pompeii. 

V.   Modern  Quarters  :  Chiaja,  Villa  Nazionale, 
Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele.  —  Castel  S.  Elmo. 

The  modern  quarters  of  Naples,  which  form  the  chief  resort 
of  foreign  visitors ,  extend  to  the  W.  of  the  heights  of  Pizzo- 
falcone  and  S.  Elmo,  along  the  base  and  on  the  slope  of  the 
I'osilipo  (p.  84),  and  are  hounded  on  the  S.  by  the  sea.  Nearest 
t lie  coast  runs  the  Chiaja,  and  oh  the  hill  farther  back  is  the 
Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele. 

The  *Riviera  di  Chiaja  (PI.  D-li,  (i),  generally  known  simply 
as  La  Chiaja  (i.  e.  'plaga';  so  too  in  Sicily  'chiazza'  for  'piazza'), 
begins  at  the  Largo  della  Yittoria  (PI.  1),  6  ;  p.  38),  at  the  point 
where  the  piazza  is  entered  by  the  Strada  S.  Caterina  a  Chiaja 
coming  from  the  Toledo  (p.  4f)).  From  this  point  it  extends 
westwards  along  the  coast  for  upwards  of  1  M.,  being  flanked  on 
one  side  by  handsome  hotels  and  other  buildings,  and  on  the 
other  by  the  pleasure-grounds  of  the  Villa  Nazionale.  The  Chiaja, 
the  Rotten  Row  of  Naples ,  is  one  of  the  liveliest  streets  in 
the  city,  particularly  on  Sunday  and  holiday  evenings  in  fine 
weather,  when  it  is  thronged  with  carriages  of  every  description, 
from  the  light  two-wheeled  'corricolo'  to  the  elegant  barouche 
and  the  lumbering  omnibus,  while  numerous  riders  prance  along 
the  course  set  apart  for  them,  and  the  neighbouring  grounds  of 
the  Villa  are  crowded  with  foot-passengers. 

The  *  Villa  Nazionale,  formerly  Villa  Reale,  generally  called 
The  Villa,  situated  close  to  the  sea,  is  a  beautiful  pleasure- 
ground  ,  affording  the  principal  promenade  at  Naples.  It  was 
laid  out  in  1780,  extended  in  1807  and  1834,  and  is  again  being 
considerably  enlarged.  The  grounds  are  arranged  chiefly  in  the 
Italian  style;  the  avenue  of  oaks  on  the  side  next  the  sea  is 
particularly  beautiful.  Among  the  other  trees  a  few  handsome 
palms  will  be  observed.  The  sculptures  intended  for  the  deco- 
ration of  the  grounds,    being  indifferent  imitations    of  ancient  and 


Aquarium.  NAPLES.  i.  Route.      79 

modern  works,  do  not  deserve  inspection.  The  Villa  is  compa- 
ratively deserted  during  the  day,  but  presents  a  busy  and  gay 
scene  at  hours  when  the  daily  concerts  (gratis)  take  place:  viz., 
in  the  colder  se.ason  4-6,  in  summer  9-11  p.  m.  In  the  evening, 
when  lighted  with  gas,  enlivened  by  the  music,  and  fanned  by 
the  cool  sea-breeze,  these  grounds  afford  a  good  idea  of  the 
charms  of  an  Italian  summer  night  (chairs  1(1  c  ;   cafe's,  see  p.  34). 

Entering  the  grounds  by  the  principal  approach  in  the  Largo 
della  Vittoria,  and  walking  up  the  broad  central  path,  we  first 
come  to  a  large  Antique  (iranite  Basin  from  Pa'stum,  brought 
from  Salerno,  and  deposited  here  in  1825  to  replace  the  celebrated 
group  of  the  Earnese  Bull,  which  was  then  removed  from  this  spot 
to  the  Museum.  To  the  right,  farther  on,  is  a  so-called  lPompeio- 
rama'  (adm.  1  fr.),  containing  views  and  photographs  of  Pompeii. 
We  next  pass  the  Aquarium  on  the  left  (see  below).  In  the 
centre  of  the  promenade,  the  most  frequented  spot,  where  the 
band  plays,  are  several  cafes.  Here  also  rises  a  statue  of  the 
historian  (riambatlista  Vico  (d.  1775),  recently  erected.  We  next 
observe  a  mediocre  statue  of  P.  Colletta,  the  liberal-minded  Nea- 
politan general,  minister  of  war,  and  historian  (1776-1831), 
erected   in   186(5. 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  a  small  temple  in  honour  of  Virgil 
(p.  81),  and  another  to  the  left  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  Tasso. 
At  the  end  of  the  gardens  on  the  left,  is  a  round  platform  ex- 
tending into  the  sea,  which  used  to  be  a  famous  point  of  view, 
but  has  lost  much  of  its  charm  since  the  construction  of  the 
embankments  for  the  widening  of  the  grounds. 

A  building  at  the  beginning  of  the  Villa,  on  the  side  next  the 
sea,  contains  a  large  *Aquarium,  opened  in  1S74,  and  belonging 
to  a  'Zoological  Station'  founded  by  the  German  naturalist  Dr. 
Dohrn.  The  aquarium  is  on  the  ground-floor  of  the  building, 
and  is  entered  from  the  side  next  to  the  Castel  dell'  Ovo  (ad- 
mission 2  fr.  from  1st  Oct.  to  31st  May;  1  fr.  from  1st  June 
to  30st  Sept. ;   season-tickets  sold  at  the  office). 

The  Neapolitan  Aquarium  contains  such  an  abundant  stock  of  curious 
marine  animals  of  very  kind,  that  it  is  one  of  the  must  interesting 
establishments  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  Among  the  contents  are  6-7 
varieties  of  cuttle-fish  (the  feeding  of  the  large  Octopus  is  interesting),  a 
number  of  electric  rays  (which  visitors  are  permitted  to  touch  so  as  to 
experience  the  shock  from  which  the  fish  derives  its  name),  numerous 
beautifully  coloured  fish  of  the  Mediterranean,  upwards  of  twrelve  different 
kinds  of  living  coral,  beautiful  Medusae  and  crested  blubbers,  many  extra- 
ordinary   looking    crabs    and   crayfish,  pipe-fish,  etc. 

The  Zoological  Station  has  been  established  for  the  purpose  of 
assisting  zoologists  of  all  nations  in  the  study  of  marine  animal  life,  and 
is  furnished  with  large  laboratories  and  a  valuable  zoological  librarj-  on 
the  upper  floor  of  the  building.  The  greater  part  of  the  expense  was  borne 
by  Dr.  Dohrn,  but  the  German  government  has  repeatedly  contributed 
large  subsidies.  Arrangements  have  been  made  with  the  governiuriits  of 
dilferent  countries  a.ml  with  several  universities  regarding  the  terms  o:i 
which  the  establishment  may  lie  used  for  scientific  purposes. 


8(1      Route  4.  NAPLES.        Chiesa  del  Sannazaro. 

From  the  point  where  the  Villa  at  present  ends  to  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  Chiaja  is  about  </i  M.  The  street  divides  here: 
t  lie  Strndi)  di  Piedigrottu ,  in  a  straight  direction,  leads  to  the 
(irotta  di  I'osilipo  (see  p.  81);  and  to  the  left  diverges  the  Mer- 
gellina,  forming  a  continuation  of  the  Chiaja,  and  consisting  of  a 
long  row  of  houses  and  villas  on  the  slopes  of  the  Posilipo  facing 
the  sea.  This  forms  the  beginning  of  the  Strada  Nuora  di  Po- 
silipo (p.  Si),   which  commands  a  succession  of  delightful  views. 

Nearly  '/4  M.  from  the  above  mentioned  bifurcation  of 
the  streets ,  the  Corso  Yittorio  Kmanuele  diverges  to  the  right 
(p.  S'2;  ordinary  cab-fares  thus  far;  also  omnibuses).  About 
74  M.  farther,  on  the  right,  before  the  street  turns  a  corner,  we 
observe  above  us  the  small  Chiesa  del  Sannazaro,  or  S.  Maria 
del  Parto.  (AVe  ascend  the  approach  to  the  church  and  mount 
the  steps  to  the  left,  which  lead  in  three  flights  to  the  terrace 
above  the  houses  Xos.  10-17.)  The  church  stands  on  the  site  of 
a  small  estate  which  King  Frederick  II.  of  Arragon  presented  in 
1496  to  the  poet  Jacopo  Sannazaro  (b.  at  Naples,  1458),  for  whom 
he  entertained  the  highest  regard.  After  his  villa  had  been  de- 
stroyed by  the  French ,  the  aged  poet  caused  the  church  to  be 
erected  by  monks  of  the  Servite  order  in  1529.  It  derives  its 
name  from  his  Latin  poem,    'De  partu  Tirginis'  (Naples  1526). 

The  church  contains  a  high-altar  and  six  chapels.  In  the  1st  chapel 
to  the  right,  St.  Michael  overcoming  Satan,  by  Leonardo  da  Pistoja.  The 
devil  is  represented  with  the  features  of  a  woman  of  whom  Diomedes 
t'arafa,  Bishop  of  Ariano,  was  once  passionately  enamoured,  and  is  popularly 
known  as  -il  diavolo  di  Mcrgellina\  Behind  the  high-altar  is  the  monu- 
ment of  the  poet  (d.  lo3()|,  executed  l>y  Fra  Giovanni  da  Muntorsoii  from 
a  design  by  <Tirolamo  Santacroce.  At  the  sides  Apollo  and  Minerva,  po- 
pularly believed  to  be  David  and  Judith  ;  on  a  bas-relief  between  them 
Neptune  and  Pun,  with  Fauns,  satyrs,  and  nymphs  singing  and  playing,  an 
allusion  to  Sannazaro's  poem  'Arcadia' ;  above  is  the  richly  decorated  sarco- 
phagus with  the  bust  of  the  poet  which  bears  his  academic  name:  Acfi'is 
Sinreni.1.  The  inscription  at  the  base  of  the  monument  by  Bembo  ;JIaroni 
.  .  .  Musa  proximus  ut  tumulo'  alludes  to  the  poet's  having  imitated 
Virgil.     His    principal    works  are  idyls,  elegies,  and  epigrams  in  Latin. 

To  the  right,  farther  on,  rises  the  Villa  Anyri.  On  the  left 
('^M.  from  the  Chiesa  del  Sannazaro),  we  next  observe  near 
the  sea  the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  Palazzo  di  Donn'  Anna  (erro- 
neously called  that  of  the  Regina  Giovanna),  begun  in  the  17th 
cent,  by  Fansai/a  for  Donna  Anna  Carafa,  wife  of  the  viceroy  Duke 
of  Medina,  on  the  site  of  a  former  palace  of  the  princes  of 
Stigliano,  but  never  completed.  To  the  left,  a  little  farther  on,  is 
the  Lazzaretto  (quarantine),  beyond  which  we  reach  the  restau- 
rants on  the  Scoylio  di  Frisin  mentioned   at  p.  '24. 

Boats  for  returning  are  generally  to  be  found  below  the  restaurants: 
to  the  Villa  l1)-.  to  t,ac  town  0-3  fr. ;  Cab  from  the  Piazza  del  Plebiscite 
to  the  Frisio  1  fr.  (bargain  necessary). 

For  the  continuation  of  this  street,   see  pp.  84.  <S5. 

The  Strada   hi  Pikdigrotta  (PI.  B,  A,  7),   which   forms   the 

prolongation  of  the  Chiaja  in  a  straight  direction,  gradually  ascends 


(rrottn  di  Posilipo. r  NAPLES.  4.  Route.      81 

from  the  bifurcation  mentioned  at  p.  80  to  the  hill  of  Posilipo.  In 
5  min.  we  reach  the  small  pia/.za  where  the  ('orso  Vittorio  Enia- 
nuele  diverges  (p.  82).  At  this  point  rises  the  church  of  S.  Maria 
di  Piedigrotta,  a  building  of  the  13th  cent.,  but  much  altered,  and 
linally  restored  in  1850  after  the  return  of  Pius  TX.  from  Gaeta. 
It  contains  a  very  old  picture  of  the  Madonna.  The  popular  festival 
of  the  Vergine  di  Piedigrotta',  celebrated  here  on  7th-8th  Sept., 
having  been  instituted  in  1745  in  commemoration  of  the  victory 
gained  over  the  Austrians  in  the  previous  year  by  Charles  III.  at 
Velletri,  has  entirely  lost  its  original  importance. 

About  3  min.  farther,  beyond  the  point  where  the  road  turns 
to  the  left,  we  observe  on  the  left,  between  the  smiths'  forges, 
below  No.  9,  the  entrance  to  the  so-called  Tomb  of  Virgil,  a 
Koman  columbarium  situated  on  the  hill,  the  genuineness  of 
which,  however,  as  the  great  poet's  last  resting-place  is  extremely 
questionable.  The  custodian  is  generally  on  the  spot  (adm.  '/2  ir-  ; 
gratuity  (i-S  soldi).  The  tomb-chamber,  to  which  a  long  flight  of 
steps  ascends,  contains  nothing  worth  seeing,  but  the  hill  commands 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  bay.    The  visit  occupies  25-30  min. 

The  tomb  contains  a  chamber  about  16  ft.  square,  with  three  win- 
dows and  vaulted  ceiling.  In  the  walls  are  ten  recesses  for  cinerary 
urns,  and  in  the  principal  wall,  which  has  been  destroyed,  there  appears  to 
have  been  one  of  greater  size.  The  name  of  the  monument  is  without 
.-atisfactory  historical  foundation,  hut  probability  and  local  tradition  favour 
the  assumption  that  this  was  VirgiFs  last  resting-place.  The  poet,  as  he 
himself  informs  us,  here  composed  his  immortal  works,  the  Georgics  and 
the  ^Eneid,  and  he  unquestionably  possessed  a  villa  on  the  Posilipo,  and 
by  his  express  wish  was  interred  here  after  his  death  at  Brundisium,  B.C. 
19,  on  his  return  from  Greece.  Petrarch  is  said  to  have  visited  this  spot 
accompanied  by  King  Robert,  and  to  have  planted  a  laurel,  which  at  the 
beginning  of  the  present  century  fell  a  prey  to  the  knives  of  curiosity- 
mongers,  and  has  since  been  replaced.  It  is  on  record  that  in  1326  the 
tomb  was  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  contained  a  marble  urn  with 
nine  small  pillars,  the  frieze  of  which  bore  the  well-known  inscription:  — 

Jlantua  me  genuit,  Calabri  rapuere,  tenet  nunc 

Parthenope  :  cecini  pascua,  rura,  duces, 
of  all    this  no    trace   now    remains.     In  1530,    however,    Cardinal    Bembo's 
epitaph  on  the    poet  Sannazaro  (see  p.  SO)  proves  that    he    believed  in  the 
genuineness   of  this    tomb;    and    the   following   inscription,    which  is  still 
legible,  was  accordingly  placed  on  it  in  1554:  — 

Qui  cineres?  tumuli  hsec  vestigia:  conditur  olim 

Ille  hie  qui  cecinit  pascua,  rura,  duces. 
The  road  now  ascends  in  a  curve  and  reaches  the  Grotta  di 
Posilipo  (PI.  A.  7),  a  tunnel  probably  constructed  in  the  reign  of 
Augustus.  It  is  mentioned  by  .Seneca  and  Petronius,  under  Nero, 
as  a  narrow  and  gloomy  pass.  Mediaeval  superstition  attributed  it 
to  magic  arts  practised  by  Virgil.  King  .Alphonso  I.  (about  1442) 
enlarged  the  opening  by  lowering  the  level  of  the  road,  and  caused 
it  to  be  ventilated;  a  century  later  Don  Petro  de  Toledo  caused 
the  road  to  be  paved ;  and  it  was  again  paved  and  improved  by 
Charles  III.  (1754).  The  length  of  the  passape,  which  is  always 
lighted  with  gas,  is  757  yds.  ;  height  at  the  E.  entrance  about  87  ft., 
varying  in  the  interior  from  20  to  50  ft. ;  breadth  21-32  ft.  Small 
Baedekek.     Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  (j 


82      Route  i.  iNAfLh^.        Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele. 

chapels  are  situated  at  the  entrance  and  in  the  middle.  On  a  few 
days  in  March  and  November  the  sun  shines  directly  through  the 
grotto,   producing  a  magic  illumination. 

At  the  egress  of  the  Grotta  di  Posilipo  is  situated  the  village 
of  Fuoriyrotla,  with  numerous  osterie,  where  several  roads  diverge. 
A  new  road  to  the  right  leads  to  Capodimonte  (p.  47).  The  sec- 
ond leads  to  the  village  of  Pianura  (p.  88);  a  third  road  leads  to 
the  Lago  d'Agnano,  and  that  in  a  straight  direction  toBag7ioli{j>.  90). 
At  the  \V.  end  of  Fuorigrotta  is  the  small  church  of  S.  Vitate, 
containing  a  simple  monument  to  the  distinguished  philologist 
and  poet  Count  Giacomo  Leopardi,   who  died  at  Naples  in  1837. 


Opposite  the  N'.'NV.  corner  of  the  Museum,  as  mentioned  at 
p.  40,  the  Stiiaha  dell'  Ixfrascata  (PL  D,  E,  3),  now  named 
after  Salvalor  Rosa,  ascends  the  heights  of  S.  Elmo  and  the  Po- 
silipo. Donkeys  may  be  hired  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  also 
farther  up:  to  S.  Martino  1-1 '/-2  1'r.  (as  quick  as  a  carriage,  or 
quicker).  The  road  ascends  in  zigzags.  After  10  minutes'  walk 
we  reach  the  small  Piazza  Sulvntor  Rosa,  where  the  8tr.  dell' 
Infrascata  turns  to  the  right  (see  p.  80). 

In  a  straight  direction  begins  here  the  new  *Corso  Vittorio 
Emanuele  ('PI.  D,  4,  5;  C,  f>,  0;  P>,  A,  0),  which  is  carried  by 
means  of  windings  and  several  viaducts  round  the  hills  of  S.  Elmo 
ami  the  Posilipo.  It  then  skirts  the  slopes  for  some  distance,  and 
at  length  gradually  descends  to  the  Piazza  di  Piedigrotta  (p.  81) 
and  the  Mergellina  (p.  80),  commanding  admirable  views  of  the 
town,  the  bay,  and  Mt.  Vesuvius.  The  road  was  begun  by  the 
Bourbons  for  military  purposes  (to  afford  a  protected  communi- 
cation between  the  Castel  8.  Elmo  and  the  city),  but  lias  only 
recently  been  completed.  Owing  to  the  openness  and  healthiness 
of  the  situation,  houses  are  rapidly  springing  up  along  this  road. 
The  distance  from  the  Piazza  Salvator  Kosa  to  8.  Maria  di 
Piedigrotta  is  upwards  of  2 ' /2  M.  (pleasanter  for  a  drive  than  a 
walk).  From  the  Corso  a  number  of  lanes  descend,  some  of 
them  by  means  of  steps,  to  the  lower  part  of  the  city.  Those 
diverging  from  the  first  third  of  the  road  lead  to  the  Toledo, 
those  from  the  last  third  descend  to  the  Chiaja. 

About  '/._!  M.  from  the  Piazza  Salvator  Kosa,  beyond  the 
viaduct  and  a  bend  in  the  Corso  ,  a  road  diverging  to  the  right 
beyond  a  red  house  ascends  to  the  Castel  S.  Elmo  and  S.  Mar- 
tino. It  soon  narrows  to  a  patli  ascending  by  means  of  steps 
{(irndonl  del  I'etraro;  PI.  D,  ft),  and  towards  the  end  by  zig- 
zags ,  and  leads  to  the  entrance  of  the  fort  in  yt  lir.  —  [A 
much  easier,  but  longer  route  is  by  the  carriage-road,  following 
the  Infrascata  road  to  the  small  chapel  of  (S.  Maria  Costantino- 
politana  (PI.  (',  4;  p.  80),  diverging  there  to  the  left,  turning 
to  the  left  again,   and  then  to  the   right.     Carriages,   see  p.   '2.J.J 


Custel  Sunt'  Elmo.  NAPLES.  4.  Route.       83 

On  entering  the  precincts  of  the  fortifications,  we  first  pro- 
ceed to  the  suppressed  Carthusian  monastery  of  — 

*S.  Martino  (PI.  D,  5j,  which  is  not  less  remarkable  for  the 
beauty  of  its  situation  and  its  views ,  than  for  the  great  value 
of  its  contents.  It  was  begun  in  13'2">  by  Duke  Charles  of  Calabria, 
but  was  entirely  rebuilt  in  the  17th  cent.  Since  its  dissolution, 
the  monastery  has  been  placed  under  the  management  of  the 
Museo  Nazionale,   and  is  shown  daily,   9-5  o'clock  (adm.  1  fr.). 

Beyond  the  tiuket-office  lies  the  monastery  court.  We  turn  to  the 
left  here,  and  reach  the  church  by  passing  through  a  corridor  and  the 
C'oro  dei  Laid   Conversi. 

The  Chukch ,  which  consists  of  a  nave  with  three  chapels  on  each 
side,  is  richly  embellished  with  marble.  On  the  ceiling  is  an  Ascension, 
and  between  the  windows  the  Twelve  Apostles,  by  Lan  franco.  Over  the 
principal  entrance  a  ^Descent  from  the  Cross  by  Xtanzioni  (damaged),  and 
next  to  it  Moses  and  Klias  by  Spaonoletto.  The  Twelve  Apostles  above  the 
arches  of  the  chapels  ,  by  the  same  artist.  Frescoes  of  the  choir  by  the 
Caraliere  dWrpino.  The  Crucifixion  by  Lanfranco.  Xativity,  unfinished, 
by  Guido  Rent  (who  died  during  the  progress  of  the  work).  On  the  sides  : 
to  the  left  ,  Communion  of  the  Apostles,  by  Spagnoletto  (in  the  style 
of  Paolo  Veronese),  and  Christ  washing  the  disciples1  feet,  by  Caracciolo; 
to  the  right,  the  same  subject  by  Utanzioni ,  and  Institution  of  the 
Eucharist,  by  the  pupils  of  P.  Veronese.  The  marble  decorations  of 
the  church,  twelve  different  roses  of  Egyptian  granite,  after  Cosimo 
Fansaga  of  Carrara,  the  beautiful  mosaic  marble  pavement  by  Presti, 
and  the  high-altar  by  Solimena  also  merit  inspection.  —  The  Sackisty, 
entered  to  the  left  from  the  choir,  is  adorned  with  intarsias  by  Bonaventura 
Pri'sto.  and  paintings  by  the  Vavaliere  d\irpino,  tilanzioni^  and  Caravaggio.  — 
Beyond  it  is  the  Tesoho,  containing  as  an  altar-piece  a  'Descent  from  the 
Cross,  the  master-piece  of  Spagnoletto;  on  the  ceiling  Judith,  by  Luca 
Giordano ,  said  to  have  been  painted  in  4S  hrs.,  when  the  artist  was  in 
his    72nd    year. 

Opposite  the  sacristy,  to  the  right  of  the  choir,  is  the  Ciiapteu- 
House  ,  with  a  ceiling-painting  by  C'orenzio;  other  pictures  by  Arpino., 
Finoglia,    Staiizioni^    and    Cambiaso. 

From  the  chapter-house  we  pass  through  another  small  room  and 
descend  by  a  few  steps  into  the  Cloisteks ,  which  are  borne  by  sixty 
columns  of  white  marble,  with  statues  of  saints.  —  To  the  right  of  the 
cloisters  we  next  enter  the  recently  founded  JIuskcm,  which  contains  a 
collection  of  majolicas,  glasses,  mirrors,  small  pieces  of  tapestry,  etc.,  in 
nine  rooms. 

At  the  end  of  the  right  wing  of  the  cloisters  is  a  door  leading  to  the 
right  through  a  corridor  to  the  ::- Belvedere,  a  hexagonal  room  with  two 
balconies  commanding  exquisite  views  of  the  city,  the  bay,  Alt.  Ve- 
suvius, and  the  fertile  country  as  far  as  !Xola  and  the  Apennines.  It 
is  less  extensive  than  that  from  the  summit  of  the  fort,  but  more 
picturesque. 

We  now  return  to  the  monastery  court  by  the  corridor  diverging 
immediately  to  the  right  by  the  entrance  to  the  museum  from  the  clois- 
ters and  passing  a  room  with  old  models  of  Neapolitan  fortresses.  — 
Lastly,  in  the  court,  we  may  inspect  a  state-coach  and  state-barge  of  the 
period  of  Charles  III.  (end  of  18th  cent.). 

Visitors  are  not  admitted  to  the  castle  without  a  permesso 
from  the  commandant  at  Naples   (p.    39 ). 

The  Castel  Sant'  Elmo  (<57G  ft.),  or  Sunt'  Ermo,  formerly  Sunt' 
ErasmOj  was  erected  by  Wute.omo  de'  Sanctis  under  Kobert  the  Wise 
(i:U;>).  Under  Ferdinand  I.  (1458)  it  was  called  the  Casiello  rfi  S. 
Miirtino,   after  the   neighbouring  monastery,   and   considerably  ex- 

G* 


S4      Routed.  NAPLEX.  Strada  Nuovadi  Posilipo. 

tended.  In  the  16th  cent,  it  was  altered  to  its  present  form  by 
Don  Pedro  de  Toledo,  and  in  1641  some  additions  were  made  by 
the  Duke  of  Medina.  The  vast  walls,  the  fosses  hewn  in  the 
solid  tuffstone  rock,  its  subterranean  passages,  and  ample  cistern 
formerly  obtained  for  it  the  reputation  of  impregnability.  The 
fort  has  been  dismantled  under  the  new  regime ,  and  is  now 
used  as  a  military  prison.  A  walk  on  the  ramparts  affords  a 
splendid  *Panorama  of  the  town  and  bay,  and  particularly  of  the 
district  towards  Camaldoli,   Misenum,   and  Ischia. 


**Strada    Nuova   di    Posilipo.     Hill   of   Posilipo.     **Camaldoli. 

The  walks  described  below  may  cither  be  taken  as  a  continuation  of 
the  traveller's  visit  to  the  modern  quarters  of  the  city,  or  they  may  be 
combined  with  the  excursions  mentioned  in  Route  5.  If  time  is  limited, 
a  visit  to  the  Strada  Xuova  di  Posilipo  may  be  combined  with  the  ex- 
cursion to  Pozzuoli,  the  best  plan  being  to  go  through  the  Grotta  di  Posi- 
lipo,  and  to  return  by  the  new  road.  A  visit  to  Camaldoli  may  also  lie 
combined  with  that  of  S.  Martino  (2  hrs.  more),  but  a  whole  afternoon 
should  if  possible  he  devoted  to  the  former. 

The  hill  which  bounds  Naples  on  the  W.,  with  its  villages  and 
numerous  charming  villas,  derives  its  name  of  Posilipo,  or  Posil- 
lipo,  from  Pausflypon  ('sans-souci'),  the  villa  of  the  notorious 
epicure  Vedius  Pollio,  afterwards  the  property  of  Augustus,  which 
was  gradually  extended  to  the  whole  hill.  The  Posilipo  is  most 
conveniently  visited  either  from  the  Chiaja  or  from  the  Museum. 
Our  starting-point  is  the  Chiaja. 

The  **Strada  Nuova  di  Posilipo,  which  at  first  skirts  the  coast, 
and  then  gradually  ascends  round  the  S.  slope  of  the  hill,  was  be- 
gun in  18P2  during  the  reign  of  Murat,  and  in  1823  completed 
as  far  as  Bagnoli.  It  leads  between  many  beautifully  situated 
villages,  commanding  exquisite  views,  and  should  on  no  account 
be  omitted  from   the  traveller's  programme.     Comp.  Map,  p.  88. 

The  beginning  of  the  Strada,  as  far  as  the  Frisio,  l1/^  M.  from 
the  end  of  the  Villa  Nazionale,  has  been  described  at  pp.  78-80. 
The  road  leaves  the  sea  and  ascends  in  windings  round  the  spur  of 
the  hill.  To  the  left  are  the  villas  Rocca  Romance  (with  hothouses), 
Rocca  Matilda,  and  Minutoli.  About  1  M.  from  the  Frisio,  beyond 
a  church  on  the  right  with  a  relief  of  the  Madonna  over  its  portal, 
a  road  diverges  to  the  left,  descending  past  the  Villa  de  Metis,  or 
delle  ('annonate,  so  called  from  its  having  been  bombarded  by  the 
French,  where  Philip  Hackert,  the  court-painter  whose  life  and 
style  of  art  have  been  described  by  Goethe,  resided  in  1786.  The 
road  then  descends  past  the  Villa  Oerace  to  the  Capo  di  Posilipo. 
The  small  church  of  S.  Marin  del  Faro,  in  the  vicinity,  occupies 
the  site  of  an  old  lighthouse.  Beautiful  view  towards  Naples.  Boats 
for  returning  to  the  town  may  be  hired  here. 

The  main  road  ascends  for  >/2  M-  more.  At  the  top  of  the 
hill  it  is  joined  by  the    road  described    at  pp.   86,  87.     It  then 


Cirntto  of  Sejanus.  NAPLES.  i.  Route.      85 

passes  through  a  deep  cutting  in  the  rock  to  a  C/4M.)  project- 
ing round  platform  which  commands  a  magnificent  *Vimv  to- 
wards Bagnoli,  Camaldoli,  Pozzuoli,  Paja,  and  Ischia.  The  road 
now  descends  on  the  AV.  side  of  the  Posilipo,  commanding  a  rbie 
view  the  whole  way. 

On  the  left,  '/4  M.  below  the  round  platform,  is  the  entrance 
to  the  so-called  Grotto  of  Sejanus,  a  passage  hewn  through  the 
rock  of  the  Posilipo,  about  990  yds.  in  length,  being  233  yds.  longer 
than  the  Grotta  di  Posilipo,  and  originally  surpassing  it  in  height 
and  width.  In  the  side  next  the  sea  are  several  openings  for 
ventilation  (fee  1  fr.  ;  the  inspection  occupies  about  l/»  hr.). 

This  is  the  tunnel  whose  construction  is  ascribed  liy  Strabo  to 
J/.  Coi-ceit/s  Xei'fa  (B.  0.  37),  almost  simultaneously  with  that  of  the 
Julian  harbour  on  the  Lucrine  lake  by  M.  Agri]>pa.  It  is  therefore  a 
mistake  to  associate  it  with  the  name  of  Sejanus,  as  it  is  of  much  earlier 
origin.  It  has  recently  been  cleared  of  rubbish  and  supported  by  walls, 
im  which  occasion  an  inscription  was  found,  recording  that  the  tunnel 
had  been  repaired  by  the  Einp.  Ilonorius  about  the  year  400.  At  the  E. 
end  of  this  passage,  especially  near  the  rocky  promontory  of  La  Gojola, 
the  most  beautiful  views  are  obtained  of  Nisida,  Proeida,  Ischia,  Capri, 
and  the  bay  of  Naples,  and  a  number  of  relics  of  antiquity  are  observed. 

The  custodian  conducts  the  visitor  from  the  grotto  to  a  vineyard  in 
the  vicinity  (fee  30-50  c),  whence  a  magnificent  view  is  enjoyed,  and 
where  some  of  the  scattered  fragments  of  the  Pttunlypon,  oi*  villa  of 
Vedius  Pollio  (p.  84)  are  visible,  extending  from  the  slope  of  the  hill 
down  to  the  sea,  and  overgrown  with  myrtles,  erica,  and  broom.  — 
The  fishponds,  in  which  the  cruel  Vedius  was  in  the  habit  of  feeding 
large  lampreys  with  the  flesh  of  his  slaves,  lay  nearer  the  town.  —  A  small 
Theatre  is  also  seen ,  which  belonged  to  the  villa  of  Lucullus ,  with 
seventeen  rows  of  seats  hewn  in  the  rock.  Besides  these  are  numerous 
other  relics  of  the  villas  with  which  the  Posilipo  was  covered  in  ancient 
times.  We  also  observe,  close  to  the  sea,  in  the  direction  of  the  town, 
the  Scuola,  or  properly  Scoglio  (rock)  di  Virgilio,  perhaps  once  a  temple 
of  Fortune,  or  of  Venus  Euploea,  to  whom  mariners  sacrificed  after  a 
prosperous  voyage. 

The  S.W.  spur  of  the  Posilipo  is  called  Capo  Coroglio,  opposite 
which  rises  the  small  rocky  island  of  Nisida,  the  Nesis  of  the  an- 
cients, an  extinct  crater,  which  opens  towards  the  S.  On  the  N. 
side  is  a  rock  on  which  the  Lazzaretto  is  erected,  connected  with 
the  mainland  by  a  breakwater.  The  small  harbour  below  is  used 
for  quarantine  purposes ;  the  building  on  the  height  is  a  bagno 
for  criminals. 

The  son  of  Lucullus  possessed  a  villa  on  this  island,  to  which  Brutus 
retired  after  the  murder  of  Ctesar  in  the  spring  of  B.  C.  44,  and  where 
he  was  visited  by  Cicero.  He  took  leave  here  of  his  wife  Portia  on  his 
departure  for  Greece,  previous  to  the  battle  of  Philippi.  In  the  15th  cent. 
Queen  Johanna  II.  possessed  a  villa  on  the  island  of  Nisida,  which  was 
converted  into  a  fort  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  fleet  of  Louis  of 
Anjou  in  check. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  (irotto  of  Sejanus  to  Bagnoli  is 
another  mile,  so  that  the  whole  distance  thither  from  the  Villa 
Nazionale  is  about  &\!t  M.  —  Bagnoli,  see  p.  90. 


S(>      limit e  4.  NAPLES.  Hill  of  Posilipo . 

The  TIili.  of  PosiLiro  is  traversed  by  numerous  roarls  aurl 
paths  connecting  the  different  villages,  houses,  and  villas.  Most  ot 
them  are  flanked  by  walls  and  command  no  view,  but  here  and 
there  they  afford  line  prospects  of  the  city  and  bay  and  towards 
the  W.  The  following  route  is  recommended,  particularly  for  driv- 
ing (or  at  least  part  of  the  way;  eab-fare  from  the  Piazza  Salvator 
Rosa  to  Antignano,  with  one  horse  t1/^,  with  two  horses  2y4  fr.). 

We  follow  the  Strada  dell'  Infkascata,  or  Salvator  Rosa  as 
it  is  officially  called,  mentioned  at  p.  82  ,  from  the  Piazza  Salvator 
Rosa  to  the  right  (nearly  J/-2  M-  fr°m  tne  Museum),  passing  be- 
tween houses  for  nearly  l/o  M.  and  afterwards  between  garden- 
walls.  —  A  road  diverges  hence  to  Arenella,  the  birthplace  of  the 
talented  lairdscape-painter  Salvator  Rosa  (b.  1605  ,  d.  at  Rome  in 
1673  after  a  chequered  career).  —  We  continue  to  follow  the  main 
road  in  a  straight  direction.  By  the  C/3  M.)  chapel  of  8.  Maria 
( 'ostantinopolitana  the  road  to  S.  Elmo,  mentioned  at  p.  82,  diverges 
to  the  left.  To  the  right,  farther  on,  we  reach  Antignano  in  2  rain, 
more.  From  the  small  piazza  at  the  beginning  of  the  village  the 
road  to  Vomero  (left)  and  Camaldoli  (right,  p.  87)  separate. 

We  turn  to  the  left  ('Strada  Belvedere'),  and  then,  halfway 
to  the  village,  to  the  right,  and  next  reach  ( '/;j  M.)  Vomero,  where 
the  Villa  Belvedere  on  the  left  commands  a  charming  *Panorama 
of  both  land  and  sea  (attendaiit  who  shows  the  terrace,  0-10  soldi). 
About  a  hundred  paces  farther  the  steep  Salita  del  Vomero  de- 
scends to  the  f'orso  Vittorio  Emanuele  and  to  the  Chiaja.  —  Our 
route  continues  to  follow  the  heights,  passing  between  the  garden- 
walls  which  enclose  the  villas  Regina,  Rieciardi,  Belletieri,  and 
Trica.se,  and  turns  (-/3  M.  from  the  Belvedere)  a  little  to  the  S. 
(fine  view  of  Naples  over  the  wall  to  the  left).  It  then  ascends, 
under  the  name  of  'Strada  Patrizi',  past  the  ('/3  M.)  Villa  Patrhi. 
to  the  top  of  the  Posilipo,  whence  we  enjoy  an  admirable  view  of 
the  district  to  the  W.,  the  Phlegrcean  fields  of  antiquity  (p.  88). 

The  road  continues  to  follow  the  top  of  the  Posilipo,  under 
which  the  tunnel  mentioned  at  p.  81  passes.  A  little  before  we 
reach  the  entrance  to  the  (-/3  M.)  village  of  Posilipo,  the  Salita  di 
S.  Antonio  diverges  to  the  left,  descending  past  Virgil's  Tomb 
(p.  81)  to  the  Mergellina.  —  If  the  traveller  prefers,  he  may  pass 
through  the  village  of  Posilipo  and  follow  the  same  road,  which 
commands  beautiful  views  and  descends,  past  the  village  of  Strato 
on  the  right,  to  (2  M.)  the  Strada  Xuova  di  Posilipo,  which  we 
reach  at  its  highest  point.  The  Grotto  of  Sejanus  is  'A,  M.  farther, 
and  the  Villa  is  about  3  M.  distant  thence  (eomp.  p.  84). 

An  Kxcuusion  to  Oamayjmh.i  and  back  on  foot,  including  stay 
there,  takes  -i'/o-o  «rs.  ;  on  donkey-back  a  little  less  (  from  the  Mu- 
seum 1-V/->  fr.  and  a  trifling  fee  to  the  attendant).  The  bridle- 
path, which  walkers  will  find  pleasant,  cannot  be  mistaken  if  the 


Cnmnldoli. 


NAI'LKS.  4.  Route.       87 


following  directions  be  attended  to  (sec  also  Plan,  p.  '20,  and  Map, 
p.  SH).  The  last  part  of  it  leads  through  wood.  — [Those  who 
prefer  driving  part  of  the  way  may  take  a  carriage  as  far  as  Li 
Cunrhmi  (PI.  A,  2),  beyond  which  they  must  either  ride  or  walk. 
In  this  case  those  who  intend  to  ride  should  send  on  donkeys  to 
await  them  at  Canciani,  where  none  are  to  be  hired,  although  the 
drivers  sometimes  maintain  the  contrary.  The  path  from  Canciani 
to  Camaldoli  leads  by  the  village  of  .\7<niiret.]  —  The  early  morn- 
ing and  the  evening  lights  are  the  most  favourable  for  the  views, 
particularly  the  latter.  The  traveller,  however,  should  start  on  the 
return-journey  in  good  time,  as  it  is  anything  but  pleasant,  to  en- 
counter frequent  walkers  and  riders  on  the  rough  path  after  dusk. 

Leaving  the  Museum  ,  we  follow  the  Strata  deir  Infrascata,  or  Sal- 
vator  Rosa  (p.  86)  as  far  as  Anlignaiio  (l1^  j\l.),  where  we  turn  to  the 
right  (com  p.  Plan  B,  -1).  At  the  next  bifurcation  we  turn  t<>  the  left, 
and  reach  ('I  niin.)  the  office  where  the  Dazio  Co//.w//v/o,  or  municipal  tax 
on  comestibles,  is  levied.  About.  200  paces  farther  on,  we  take  the  bridle- 
path diverging  to  the  left  and  passing  an  osteria  on  the  right.  The  path 
then  immediately  passes  under  a  viaduct  and  enters  a  hollow  (to  which 
point  our  Plan  of  Naples  extends:  A,  4,  3).  The  path  runs  between 
bushes  and  pines.  After  25  min. ,  beyond  an  archway  through  which 
we  pass,  the  path  turns  by  a  white  house  a  little  to  the  left  to  the 
(4  inin.)  farm-buildings  of  Cainaldulilli ,  and  passes  through  the  gateway, 
immediately  beyond  which  it  ascends  to  the  right  at  a  sharp  angle.  Fine 
view  of  S.  Elmo,  Naples,  Vesuvius,  and  the  bay  towards  the  right.  After 
7  min..  at  the  point  where  the  path  descends  slightly,  a  path  diverges 
to  the  right  to  Xazaret,  while  the  main  path,  leading  to  Camaldoli,  as- 
cends somewhat  steeply  to  the  left.  In  '[4  hr.  more  we  turn  to  the  right 
to  a  closed  gate,  on  passing  through  which  riders  have  to  pay  20  c.  and  wal- 
kers 15  c.  each.  The  path  then  skirts  the  wall  of  the  monastery  garden, 
where  it  is  joined  by  the  path  from  Nazaret,  and  reaches  the  entrance 
to  Die  monastery  in  5  min.  more. 

Visitors  ring  at  the  gate,  and  on  leaving  give  the  porter  a  few  soldi. 

**Camaldoli ,  a  monastery  of  the  Camaldulensian  order  insti- 
tuted by  S.  Romuald  near  Florence  about  the  year  1000,  was  found- 
ed in  1585,  but  is  now  dissolved.  It  stands  on  the  E.  summit  of  an 
amphitheatre  of  hills  which  enclose  the  Phlegra'an  plain  on  the  N., 
being  the  highest  point  near  Xaples  (1476  ft. ),  and  commands  one 
of  the  most  magnificent  views  in  Italy.  The  monastery  and  church 
contain  nothing  worth  seeing,  and  we  therefore  proceed  at  once  to 
the  garden.  Two  points  of  view  are  specially  to  be  noted  :  the  more 
important  is  in  the  garden,  straight  before  us;  the  other,  which 
commands  the  Campanian  plain,  is  by  the  monastery,  more  to  the 
loft.  Now  that  the  monastery  is  dissolved,  ladies  also  are  admitted. 
There  are  still  four  surviving  monks,  who  offer  wine  and  coffee, 
and  who  in  any  case  expect  a  small  donation  ('/o  fr.  for  one  person"). 

The  view  embraces  the  bays  of  Naples,  Pozzuoli.  and  Gaeta, 
the  widely  extended  capital  (of  which  a  great,  part  is  concealed 
by  S.  Elmo)  with  its  environs,  the  Lago  d'Agnano.  the  craters 
of  Solfatara  and  Astroni,  the  promontories  of  Posilipo  and  Mise- 
num,  the  islands  of  N'isida,  Procida.  and  Isehia,  and  the  districts 
of  Baia' ,     Cumii' ,     and  Liternum.     Towards    the  S.   the   view   is 


SS      Route  S.  POZZUOLI,  etc.  Environs 

bounded  by  Capri  and  the  Punta  della  Campanella ,  the  ancient 
promontory  of  Minerva.  The  small  towns  of  Massa,  Sorrento, 
and  C'astellamare  are  visible;  also  Monte  Sant'  Angelo,  the  smok- 
ing cone  of  Vesuvius,  and  the  luxuriant  plain  at  its  base.  To- 
wards the  N.  the  eye  wanders  over  the  expanse  of  the  Campania 
Ftti.r  with  its  numerous  villages ,  over  Nola,  Cancello,  Maddaloni, 
Caserta.  Capua ,  Monte  Tifata ,  the  volcanic  group  of  the  Korea 
Montina,  the  lake  of  Patria,  (iaeta,  the  hills  of  Formi;e.  and  the 
Monte  Circello  beyond.  To  the  W.  stretches  the  open  sea,  with 
the  islands  of  Ponza.  Ventotene,  S.  Stefano,  and  Isola  delle  Hotte. 
I'.y  the  path  already  mentioned  we  may  descend  by  Kazarel  to  Piii- 
nuva  at  the  N.W.  base  of  the  hill,  where  there  are  extensive  quarries; 
thence   to    Fuorigrotta  (p.  82 1  i  31.  At    the    S.   bate  of   Camaldoli  lies 

the  village  of  ,S'eewro,  to  which  a  steep  path  descends  (.guide  necessary); 
thence  to  Fuorigrotta  2',-2  31. 


5.     Pozzuoli,  Baiae,  Misenum,  and  Cumse. 

The  I'/ilcgniemi  Plain,  a  district  to  the  W.  of  Xaples,  has  from  time 
immemorial  been  a  scene  of  tremendous  volcanic  activity,  and  as  lately  as 
the  16th  cent,  has  undergone  vast  changes ,  of  which  the  traveller  will 
observe  traces  at  every  step.  This  tract  is  scarcely  less  interesting  in  an 
historical  than  in  a  physical  point  of  view.  It  was  here  that  Hellenic 
civilisation  first  gained  a  footing  in  Italy,  and  constant  communication  was 
thenceforth  maintained  between  this  portion  of  the  peninsula  and  the  East. 
The  legends  of  Hellenic  tradition  are  most  intimately  associated  with  these 
coasts,  and  the  poems  of  Homer  and  Virgil  will  continue  to  invest  it  with 
a  peculiar  interest  as  long  as  classic  literature  exists.  The  prosperity  ot 
this  lovely  coast  has  long  since  departed.  The  grand  creations  of  imperial 
Home,  the  innumerable  palatial  villas  of  the  Roman  aristocracy,  have  long 
been  converted  into  a  chaotic  heap  of  ruins  by  convulsions  of  nature,  and 
have  left  behind  comparatively  slight  traces  of  their  former  magnilicencc. 
The  malaria  which  prevails  in  many  parts  of  the  district,  and  the  stupendous, 
though  slumbering  ,  agencies  beneath  the  soil  cast  a  certain  gloom  over 
the  scene;  but  the  inexhaustible  beauties  of  Italian  nature  are  still  in- 
vested with  the  same  charms  as  they  possessed  two  thousand  years  ago. 
Islands  and  promontories,  bays  and  lakes,  and  singularly  beautiful  inden- 
tations of  the  coast  form  the  chief  features  of  this  scenery,  which  is  per- 
haps without  rival. 

The  fertile  imagination  of  the  natives  has  assigned  all  kinds  of  impos- 
ing classical  names  to  many  insigniticant  and  uninteresting  objects  in  this 
district,  and  strangers  are  therefore  often  importuned  to  inspect  pretended 
curiosities  which  make  serious  inroads  on  time,  temper,  and  purse.  The 
chief  objects    of  interest  are  enumerated  in  the  following    description. 

Two  Days  should  if  possible  be  devoted  to  exploring  this  region  as 
follows:  Fiust:  -■  Drive  through  the  (irotta  di  Posilipo  (p.  81j  to  the  now 
drained  Lagv  iVAgnmto,  4!)  min.;  visit  the  Duy  (irvlta,  2U  min.  •  walk  over 
the  hill  (view)  to  the  Sol/nturn,  1  hr. ;  halt  there,  20  min.;  walk  to 
1'uiziwli  and  the  Amphitheatre.  20  min.;  halt  there,  and  visit  cathedral, 
harbour,  and  'Temple  of  Serapis,  1  hr.  ;  drive  back  to  Naples  by  the 
'  Htruila  Siioru  di  Pusitijm  (which  route  must  be  expressly  stimulated  for), 
li/.,  hr. :  in  all  f)-G  hours.  -  Second:  Drive  through  1'ozzuoli  to  the 
Am,  /VdVr,  I',1,  hr.  ;  walk  to  Cumrte  and  back,  1  hr. ;  walk  or  drive  (torch- 
es necessary  in  the  latter  case)  through  the  <  irotta  della  Pace  to  the 
htiyu  Arrrno  ami  linjn,  1  hr.  or  :!|4  hr. :  drive  to  Jiucoli,  20  ,u;n  ( piscina 
Alirabilis  >|,  hr.);  ascent  of  Ccijiv  Miscm,  and  hack,  ill.,  iu.  .  diiv.-  back 
to  Naples  2'|"  lirs.  :   in  all  7-8  hours. 


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C0HT0RH1  »i  HAPOLI. 

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'KilnmPtri 


Abbrtriazioni  :      £r."  Orotta ,  /***  haita,  Hir'.'  Usriera, 
So.  Scoalio,  Spf  Spiuggia,,  Tf  Torre,,  V?  Villa  ,  J'."'  PffiUme. 


of  Naples.  LAGO  D'AGNANO.  5.  Route.       89 

One  Day.  If  Cumae,  which  is  chiefly  interesting  to  archaeologists,  or 
the  Dog  Grotto  and  the  Lago  d'Agnano  he  omitted  ,  all  the  other  places 
may  easily  be  visited  in  one  day.  (The  Solfatara  may  also  be  omitted 
by  those  who  intend  to  ascend  Vesuvius.)  The  important  antiquities  of 
Pozzuoli  may  in  this  case  lie  visited  either  in  going  or  returning.  The 
start  should  be  made  early.  —  The  inns  are  generally  dear  and  indiffer- 
ent. Luncheon  or  early  dinner  may  be  taken  at  Baja,  but  it  is  pre- 
ferable to  bring  provisions  from  Naples  and  to  picnic  at  Cnmae  or  on  the 
Capo  Sliseno. 

The  way  in  which  these  excursions  may  be  combined  with  a  visit  to 
Procida  and  Ischia  is  indicated  at  p.  102. 

Carriages.  There  is  no  fixed  tariff  except  for  the  drives  to  the  Lago 
d'Agnano  and  to  Bagnoli  ,  for  either  of  which  the  fare  is  2  fr.  with  one 
horse,  or  3  fr.  with  two  horses  (from  the  stand  in  the  Strada  di  Piedi- 
grotta ;  comp.  p.  25).  —  The  usual  fare  to  Pozzuoli  for  a  cab  with  one 
horse  is  3  fr.,  there  and  back  4  fr.,  or  back  by  the  Strada  Siniva  di  Po- 
silipo  5  fr.  $  to  Pozzuoli  and  Baja,  and  back,  10  fr. ;  driver's  fee  extra  in 
each  case.  Those  who  take  an  interest  in  the  antiquities,  and  do  not 
object  to  walking,  had  better  not  be  hampered  with  a  carriage  for  the 
whole  excursion.  As  there  is  constant  communication  between  Naples 
and  Pozzuoli,  a  single  seat  ('an  posto')  in  a  public  conveyance  may 
always  be  obtained  for  1  fr.,  hut  some  practice  in  bargaining  is  required; 
most  of  these  vehicles  start  from  the  Cafe  Benvenuto  (Strada  di  Chiaja, 
corner  of  the  Strada  Alabardieri;  PI.  1),  6).  A  single  seat  may  also 
easily  he  obtained  in  one  of  the  small  'corricoir  or  gigs  which  ply  be- 
tween Naples,  Pozzuoli,  and  Baja  (1|s-l  fr.,  according  to  the  distance).  — 
A  carriage  with  two  horses  for  the  whole  day  costs  20-25  fr. ,  with  one 
horse  10-12  fr.,  a  corricolo  8  fr.  ;  in  every  case  a  distinct  bargain  should 
be  made  beforehand. 

Guides.  The  following  directions,  the  map,  and  a  slight  knowledge 
of  the  language  will  enable  the  traveller  to  dispense  with  a  guide.  Those, 
however,  who  desire  to  avoid  the  importunities  of  the  guides  at  Pozzuoli 
and  Baja  may  engage  a  cicerone  at  Naples  for  the  excursion  (6  fr. ;  see 
p.  26).  The  Naples  guides  undertake  the  hiring  of  a  carriage,  the  pay- 
ment of  fees,  etc. ,  thus  relieving  the  traveller  of  all  trouble  (total  cost 
for  two  persons  with  one-horse  carriage  20-25  fr.). 

The  usual  and  shortest  route  to  the  W.  environs  of  JSaples  is 
through  the  Grotta  di  Posilipo  and  Fuorigrotta  (p.  S'2 ;  2]/t  M.  from 
the  Largo  della  Vittoria),  from  which  the  main  road  leads  straight 
to  Bagnoli  (p.  90).  From  that  road,  a  few  hundred  paces  beyond 
Fuorigrotta,  a  cart  track,  and  nearly  ll/.»  M.  farther  a  broad  road, 
diverge  to  the  dried  up  Lago  d'Agnano,   2'/4  M.   from  Fuorigrotta. 

The  Lugo  d'Agnano,  which  was  drained  in  1870,  is  an  old 
crater  of  irregular  form,  21/4  M.  in  circumference.  The  water  pro- 
duced malaria,  but  now  that  it  is  drained  the  gain  in  a  sanitary 
point  of  view  is  very  doubtful ,  while  the  beauty  of  the  landscape 
is  sadly  impaired. 

On  the  S.  bank,  immediately  to  the  right  of  the  point  where 
the  road  reaches  it,  are  the  old  Stufe  di  San  Germano,  or  chambers 
in  which  the  hot  sulphureous  fumes  rising  from  the  ground  here 
are  collected  for  the  use  of  sick  persons  (adm.  '/2  fr.  each  person). 
A  few  paces  farther  on  is  the  famous  Grotta  di  Cane,  or  Dog 
Grotto.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  ground  and 
sides  are  so  thoroughly  impregnated  with  carbonic,  acid  gas, 
that  the  fumes  render  dogs  insensible  in  a  few  seconds, 
and  produce  a  feeling  of   languor  on   human    beings.      Dogs    are 


0(1       Route  5.  POZZUOLI.  Environs 

provided  for  the  exhibition  of  this  somewhat  cruel  experiment, 
hut  the  curiosity  of  the  traveller  may  be  sufficiently  gratified  by 
observing  that  a  light  is  immediately  extinguished  when  brought 
in  contact  with  the  vapour.  Pliny  (Hist.  Nat.  ii.  93)  mentions  this 
grotto  as  :  'spiracula  et  scrobes  Charonese  mortiferum  spiritum  ex- 
halantes  in  agro  Puteolano'.  (Adm.  1/2  fr-  eacn  person;  1  fr. 
more  is  demanded  for  the  experiments  with  the  dog  and  the  light.") 

Tlic  road  skirting:  the  S.W.  bank  of  the  dried  lake  leads  to  (1  31.) 
the  royal  c/uisse  of  Astroni,  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the  volcan- 
ic craters  in  this  region,  being  upwards  of  3  31.  in  circumference,  and 
densely  overgrown  with  holm-oaks  and  poplars.  On  the  S.  side  it  con- 
tains a  small  lake,  and  in  the  centre  an  eminence  of  trachytie  lava. 
Picturesque,  hut  somewhat  dull  park-scenery,  pleasanter  for  riding  than 
walking.  Driving  is  practicable  only  as  far  as  the  margin  of  the  crater. 
We  then  ascend  the  old  road  to  the  left  to  the  large  gate,  where  wo 
show  our  'permesso*  (see  p.  40).     Fee  ^2  fr. 

From  the  Laoo  oAgnano  to  Pozzuoli  ,  DJ4  br.,  a  pleasant  footpath 
commanding  a  superb  view  towards  the  end,  leads  across  the  hills  to  the 
W\  By  a  solitary  house .  about  8  min.  from  the  Dog  Grotto ,  a  road  di- 
verges to  the  left  from  the  above  mentioned  Astroni  road,  and  skirts  the 
X.  base  of  the  Monti-  Spina.  After  3  min.  we  turn  to  the  right,  and  in 
10  min.  more  to  the  right  again;  where  the  road  divides  into  three  (2 
min.)  we  turn  to  the  left,  then  immediately  afterwards  to  the  left  again, 
continuing  to  follow  the  main  road.  At  a  farm-house  (ill  min.)  the  road 
narrows  to  a  footpath,  which  ascends  steeply  past  ancient  walls  to  a  (8 
min.)  white  building  and  yard,  through  which  we  pass  by  a  door  on  the 
left.  Passing  through  a  narrow  dell,  the  path  leads  in  8  min.  more  to 
the  top  of  the  hill,  where  we  take  the  road  to  the  right.  Looking  back, 
we  obtain  a  beautiful  glimpse  at  Nisida  and  Capri,  and  by  the  (5  min.  I 
suppressed  Capuchin  monastery  of  S.  Gennaro  (p.  04).  we  enjoy  a  superb 
-survey  of  Pozzuoli  and  its  bay.  the  Capo  3Iiseno  .  and  Ischia.  After 
4  inin.  more  in  a  straight  direction,  we  may  turn  to  the  right  to  the 
entranci'  of  the  Solfatara  (p.  94),  or  to  the    left  to  ('(4  hr.)  Pozzuoli. 

The  monotonous  high  road  from  Fuorigrotta  to  (2'/4  M-) 
liagnoli  leads  between  gardens.  When  it  approaches  the  coast, 
the  island  of  Nisida  becomes  visible  on  the  left. 

Bagnoli  (called  by  the  Neapolitans  Bagnol)  is  a  small  wa- 
tering-place with  hot  springs,  some  of  which  contain  salt  and 
carbonic  acid  gas ,  others  sulphur  and  iron.  There  are  several 
bath  and  lodging-houses.  From  liagnoli  by  the  Strada  Nuova 
di  Posilipo  to  Naples,   see  pp.   84-86. 

From  liagnoli  to  Pozzuoli,  "J'^M.,  the  road  skirts  the  coast, 
commanding  delightful  views.  In  the  lava  hills  which  rise 
near  the  sea,  not  far  from  Pozzuoli,  are  extensive  quarries 
(Petriere).   where  two  hundred  convicts  are  employed. 

Pozzuoli.  --  Hotel.  Ponte  r>i  Calioola  ,  near  the  harbour,  in  the 
small  Piazza  S.  31.  dclle  Gra/.ie.  lately  improved.  —  Restaurants.  J-'urlmni. 
adjoining  the  hotel ;  Tlt-Uri  Vein'-ia  ,  'on  the  quay.  (Bargaining  necessary 
everywhere.) 

Guides,  whose  services  may  well  be  dispensed  with  (p.  80),  assail 
the  traveller  pertinaciously  the  moment  he  arrives.  Their  demands  are 
generally  extravagant.  For  a  walk  through  the  town,  to  the  Amphitheatre, 
and  the  temple  of  Serapis  I  fr..  or,  with  the  addition  of  the  .Solfatara, 
I'l'-fr.  suflices.  —  The  guides  and  others  also  importune  visitors  to  buy 
'antiquities'  which  are  manufactured  at  Naples  and  then  buried  to  give 
them  the  requisite  coating  of  rust  or    verdigris.     Genuine    antiquities  may 


of  Naples 


POZZUOIJ. 


5.  Route.      91 


he  purchased  of  the  I'tiiwuico  Crisrio,  on  the  way  from  the  entrance  gate 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  hut  his  prices  are  high. 

Carriage  with  one  horse  to  Cumae  or  Baja  3-4,  to  both  5-6  fr. ;  seat  in 
a  'corricolo'  >/2-l  fr.  —  Donkeys  (bad)  2-3  fr.  for  an  afternoon.  —  Boat 
to  Baja  for  3-4  persons,  in  >/2"l  hr.,  about  2  fr. 

If  the  traveller  takes  a  carriage  from  Pozzuoli  to  Baja  he  had  better 
drive  at  once  to  the  Solfatara  (walking,  however,  for  the  last  5  min.), 
then  to  the  Amphitheatre,  and  lastly  to  the  Serapeum.  The  harbour  may 
be  visited  in  returning. 


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Pozzuoli ,  a  quiet  town  with  15,700  inhab. ,  situated  on  a 
projecting  hill  and  at  its  base,  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name, 
which  forms  part  of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  was  founded  at  an  early 
period  by  the  Greeks  and  named  by  them  Dicaearchia.  It  was 
subdued  by  the  Romans  in  the  Samnite  wars,  repeatedly  colo- 
nised by  them,  and  called  by  them  Puteoli.  It  afterwards  be- 
came the  most  important  commercial  city  in  Italy,  and  the  prin- 
cipal depot  for  the  traffic  with  Egypt  and  the  East ,  whence 
Oriental  forms  of  worship  were  introduced  here  at  an  early  pe- 
riod. St.  Paul  once  spent  seven  days  here  (Acts,  xxxviii).  Its 
ruins ,  which  lie  close  to  the  modern  town ,  are  now  the  only 
indication  of  its  ancient  importance.  The  town  itself  presents 
few  attractions.  —  The  volcanic  puzzolana  earth  found  in  the 
whole  of  this  district,  from  which  an  almost  indestructible  ce- 
ment is  manufactured,   derives  its  name  from  Po/.zuoli. 


92      Route  5.  POZZUOLI.  Environs 

At  the  entrance  to  the  town  a  broad  paved  road  ascends  to 
the  right  in  windings,  leading  to  the  upper  town,  the  Amphi- 
theatre,  and  the  Solfatara  (see  "below"). 

Entering  by  the  gate  we  soon  reach  the  principal  Piazza, 
in  which  rise  the  statue  of  a  senator,  bearing  the  name  of  Q. 
Ftuv.  Mavortiu*  Lollianus,  discovered  in  1704  (head  formed  of  a 
separate  block ,  but  also  ancient) ,  and  that  of  Bishop  Leon  y 
Cardenas,   Viceroy  of  Sicily  under  Philip  III. 

Proceeding  in  a  straight  direction,  and  turning  to  the  left 
by  the  church  of  S.  Maria  delle  Grazie,  we  come  to  the  Quay, 
where  we  see  the  remains  of  the  ancient  pier,  called  by  Seneca 
Pilae ,  by  Suetonius  Moles  Puteolanae ,  and  now  Ponte  di  Cali- 
gola.  Of  twenty-five  buttresses ,  which  supported  twenty-four 
arches ,  sixteen  are  left,  three  being  under  water.  They  are 
constructed  of  bricks  and  puzzolana  earth,  and  bear  an  in- 
scription recording  that  the  pier  was  restored  by  Antoninus  Pius. 
A  common,  but  erroneous  impression  is,  that  they  were  con- 
nected with  the  bridge  of  boats  which  Caligula  threw  across 
the  bay  of  Bai;ij,  in  order  that,  clad  in  the  armour  of  Alexander 
the  Great ,  he  might  there  celebrate  his  insane  triumph  over 
the  Parthians.    Route  along  the  quay  to  the  Serapeum,   see  below. 

If  at  the  first  bend  in  the  above  mentioned  road  which  leads 
to  the  upper  part  of  the  town  we  turn  to  the  left  we  soon  reach 
the  Piazza  del  Municipio  ,  commanding  a  fine  view,  whence  we 
may  follow  the  Via  del  Duomo  and  its  second  side-street  to  the 
left  to  the  cathedral  of  S.  Proculo.  It  occupies  the  site  of 
a  temple  of  Augustus,  erected  by  L.  Calpurnius,  six  Corinthian 
columns  from  which  are  still  outside.  The  church  contains  relics 
of  St.  Proculus  and  the  monuments  of  the  Duke  of  Montpensier 
and  Giovanni  P.attista  Pergolese  of  Jesi,  the  talented  composer 
of  the  original  Stabat  Mater,   who  died  in  1736  at  the  age  of  26. 

At  the  extreme  X.  end  of  the  town  begins  a  narrow  street 
(bearing  the  inscription  'liagni  di  Serapide')  which  leads  from  the 
sea  to  the  *Temple  of  Serapis,  or  Serupeum  (fee  V2  lr-J'  known 
as  early  as  153H,  but  not  completely  excavated  till  1750.  It  con- 
sisted of  a  square  court,  enclosed  by  forty-eight  massive  marble 
and  granite  columns ,  and  with  thirty-two  small  chambers  ad- 
joining. The  portico  rested  on  six  Corinthian  columns  (three  of 
which  remain),  bearing  a  rich  frieze.  In  the  centre  of  the  court 
stood  a  circular  temple,  surrounded  by  a  peristyle  of  sixteen 
Corinthian  pillars  of  African  marble ,  which  have  been  trans- 
ferred to  the  theatre  of  the  palace  at  Caserta  (p.  10),  the  bases 
alone  being  left.  The  interior  was  approached  by  four  flights  of 
steps.  The  pavement  declined  inwards  towards  the  centre,  where 
the  statues  of  Serapis,  now  in  the  museum  at  Naples,  were 
found.  Two  inscriptions  found  here  mention  the  restoration  of  the 
temple  by   Marcus  Aurelius    and   Septiiuius  Severus.      The  lower 


of  Naples.  POZZUOLI.  5.  Route.      93 

parts  of  the  ruin  are  under  water,  but  the  level  of  the  ground  lias 
recently  been  raised,   in  order  to  prevent  unhealthy  exhalations. 

In  the  course  of  centuries  a  species  of  shellfish  (lit/todomus,  or  modiola 
lithophoga ,  still  found  in  this  vicinity  J  had  undermined  the  luises  of  the 
central  columns,  whilst  the  upper  parts  remained  intact.  Interesting  olisei - 
vations  may  be  made  here  with  respect  to  the  changes  which  have  taken 
place  in  the  level  of  the  sea  at  different  periods.  That  it  had  risen  con- 
siderably, even  in  ancient  times,  is  proved  l>y  the  fact  that  mosaics  have 
been  found  6  ft.  below  the  present  level  of  the  pavement.  After  the  decline 
of  heathenism  the  sea  continued  to  rise,  as  the  different  watermarks  testify. 
Subsequently  the  lower  part  of  the  edifice  was  buried  to  a  depth  of  13  ft., 
probably  by  an  eruption  of  Solfatara,  and  thus  protected  against  the  farther 
invasions  of  the  Crustacea.  These  extend  to  a  height  of  9  ft.,  so  that  at 
one  period  the  sea-level  must  have  been  at  least  20  ft.  higher  than  at 
present.  This  great  change  was  caused  by  the  convulsion  connected  with 
the  upheaval  of  Monte  Nuovo  (p.  94)  in  1538.  Since  the  last  century  the 
ground  has  again  been  gradually  sinking.  The  salt  springs  in  the  ruins 
were  called  into  existence  by  the  last  eruption. 

The  Temple  of  Neptune  is  a  name  applied  to  another  ruin,  to  the  W. 
of  the  Serapeum  ,  consisting  of  a  few  pillars  rising  from  the  sea.  In  the 
vicinity,  also  under  water,  is  situated  the  so-called  Temple  of  the  iViimplis, 
from  which  a  considerable  number  of  columns  and  sculptures  have  been 
recovered.  A  little  farther  on,  a  few  fragments  indicate  the  site  of  Cicero's 
Puleolaneum,  a  villa  delightfully  situated  on  the  coast,  with  shady  avenues, 
which  the  orator  in  imitation  of  Plato  called  his  Academy,  and  where  he 
composed  his  'Academica'  and  'De  Fato\  Hadrian ,  who  died  at  Baise, 
A.D.  138,  was  interred  within  the  precincts  of  Cicero's  villa,  and  Anto- 
ninus Pius  afterwards  erected  a  temple  on  the  spot. 

On  leaving  the  Serapeum ,  we  proceed  to  the  right,  and  by 
a  fountain  again  to  the  right,  after  4  min.  cross  the  high  road, 
and  ascend  the  broad  paved  road  to  the  left  to  an  open  space, 
whence  the  Via  Annteatro  leads  after  about  2f>0  paces  to  tin; 
Amphitheatre  ,  the  most  interesting  and  perfect  of  all  the  ruins 
of  Pozzuoli  (admission  2  fr.  ;    Sundays  gratis). 

The  *Amphitheatre  rests  on  three  series  of  arches,  which  were 
surrounded  by  an  external  court;  the  two  principal  entrances  were 
adorned  with  triple  colonnades.  The  interior  contained  four  tiers  of 
seats  in  several  compartments  (cunei),  connected  by  flights  of  steps. 
The  imperial  seat  was  distinguished  by  Corinthian  columns  of  black 
marble.  The  arena,  369  ft.  long,  and  '216  ft.  broad,  was  excavated 
in  1838,  when  a  number  of  subterranean  passages  and  receptacles 
for  the  wild  beasts,  etc.,  98  paces  long  and  53  broad,  were  dis- 
covered ,  affording  us  a  distinct  idea  of  the  arrangements  and 
machinery  of  the  ancient  amphitheatres.  By  means  of  a  water 
conduit  (to  the  left  of  the  principal  entrance)  the  arena  could  be  laid 
under  water  when  naval  combats  were  to  be  represented ;  the 
outlet  is  in  the  principal  passage.  The  entrances  for  the  gla- 
diators, and  the  air  holes  and  outlets  of  the  dens  of  the  animals 
are  easily  recognised.  The  celebrated  gladiator-combats  under 
Nero,  when  he  received  Tiridates,  King  of  Armenia,  as  a  guest 
at  his  court,  took  place  here,  and  even  the  emperor  himself 
entered  the  arena.  Under  Diocletian  St.  Januarius  and  his 
companions  were  thrown   to  the  wild  beasts  here  in  vain,   as  an 


94      Routed.  SOLFATARA.  Environs 

inscription  on  the  chapel  dedicated  to  him  records,  before  they 
were  put  to  death  near  the  Solfatara.  The  high  ground  near  the 
amphitheatre   commands  a  tine  view  in  the  direction  of  Misenum. 

Above  the  amphitheatre  was  situated  a  theatre,  the  ruins  of  which 
have  not  yet  been  excavated.  Other  ruins  in  the  vicinity,  externally  of 
circular  construction,  are  believed  to  have  been  either  Baths  or  a  Temple 
of  Diana.  The  Villa  Lnxeiano  contains  the  so-called  Labyrinth .  really  a 
piscina,  or  ancient  reservoir.  The  Piscina  (Ivande  ,  with  vaulted  ceiling, 
resting  on  three  rows  of  ten  columns  each,  still  serves  as  a  reservoir,  and 
was  doubtless  once  connected  with  the  ancient  .Julian  aqueduct  from  the 
Pausilypon  to  Misenum. 

Jlo/nan  Ton/hx  have  been  discovered  in  great  numbers  on  the  old 
roads,  the  Via  Campana  leading  to  Capua  ,  the  Via  Puleolana  to  Xaples, 
and  tlie    Via   Cittnana  to  Cumte,  but  are  now  mere  shapeless  ruins. 

We  now  return  to  the  Piazza  del  Municipio,  from  the  oppo- 
site end  of  which ,  by  the  small  church  'Deipara;  Consolatrici 
Sacrum',  the  road  to  the  entrance  of  the  town  descends  to  the 
right  (p.  91),  while  that  to  the  Solfatara  leads  to  the  left. 
The  latter  (after  2  min.  ,  to  the  right;  afterwards  to  the  left) 
ascends  through  vineyards.  The  ascent  to  the  Solfatara  on  foot 
takes  20  min.  ;   donkey   1  fr.    (not  recommended). 

The  *Solfatara  (adm.  '/-2  fr-  each  person)  is  the  crater  of  a 
half  extinct  volcano,  an  oblong  space  enclosed  by  hills  of  pumice- 
stone,  from  fissures  ( 'fumaroli')  in  which  vapours  and  sulphureous 
gases  ascend.  The  ground  is  hollow  in  every  direction.  The 
ancients  (Strabo)  called  this  crater  Forum  Vulcani,  and  believed 
it  to  be  connected  with  the  crater  of  Ischia.  The  only  recorded 
eruption  from  it,  attended  with  an  emission  of  lava,  took  place 
in  1 19S.    A  manufactory  of  stucco  is  now  established  here. 

Above  the  Solfatara,  towards  the  E. ,  rise  the  Cull  ex  Leucogaei ,  the 
white  hills  whose  light-coloured  dust  was  so  highly  prized  by  the  an- 
cients lor  colouring  groats  and  other  kinds  of  grain.  Severn!  small  brooks 
containing  alum  have  their  source  here,  called  /  Pisciarelli,  the  Funiex 
Leueaijaei  of  the  ancients  (Plin.  Xat.  Hist.  xxxi.  2),  which  fall  steaming 
into  a  ravine  between  the  Solfatara  and  the  Lago  d'Agnano,  and  are  fre- 
quently used  as  a  remedy  for  cutaneous  diseases.  The  ground  is  warm 
and  saturated  with  gas  in  every  direction. 

Shortly  before  our  route  reaches  the  Solfatara  it  is  joined  on 
the  right  by  a  road  coming  from  the  Lago  d'Agnano.  The  *View 
on  the  latter  road  is  so  fine  that  the  traveller  should  not  omit  to 
ascend  as  far  as  (G  min. )  the  now  suppressed  Capuchin  monas- 
tery of  <S.  Ii'ennuro,  erected  in  lf)80  on  the  spot  where  St.  Janu- 
arius  is  said  to  have  been  beheaded  in  305. 


The  high-road  (carriages,  see  p.  91)  which  leads  towards  the 
W.  from  Pozzuoli  divides  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  Nuovo,  nearly 
I '/2  M.  beyond  the  town.  The  branch  to  the  right  leads  to  the 
Lago  Averno,  Arco  Felice,  and  dilute;  that  to  the  left  to  P.aia;  and 
Misenum  ('Strada  di  .Yliniscola' ). 

The  Monte  Nuovo  (4:"i(i  ft.)  is  a  volcanic  hill  of  comparatively 
recent   origin,    having   been   upheaved  on  80th   Sept.  luoS,   after 


of  Naples.  LACUS  AVERNUS.  5.  Route.      95 

a  violent  earthquake.  Its  form  is  that  of  an  obtuse  cone,  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  a  deep  extinct  crater,  enclosed  by  masses  of 
pumice-stone,   trachyte,   and  tufa.     The  ascent  is  interesting. 

The  road  to  Baja  (2'/4  M.  from  the  above-mentioned  bi- 
furcation) traverses  the  narrow  strip  of  land  which  now  separates 
the  Lacus  Lucrinus  from  the  sea. 

The  Lacus  Lucrinus,  which  was  famed  for  its  oysters  in  an- 
cient times,  was  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  bulwark,  called 
the  Via  Herculea ,  from  the  tradition  that  the  hero  traversed  it 
when  driving  the  bulls  of  Geryon  across  the  swamps.  This  barrier 
afterwards  fell  to  decay  and  was  again  repaired ,  but  was  seri- 
ously damaged  by  the  eruption  of  Monte  Nuovo  in  1538.  Part 
of  it,  250  yds.  in  length,  is  still  visible  under  the  water,  where 
remains  of  the  Portus  Julius,  or  harbour  constructed  by  Agrippa, 
are  also  distinguishable.  Instead  of  oysters,  the  lake  now  yields 
the  spiyola,   a  fish  much  esteemed  by  the  Neapolitans. 

About  l/iM.  to  the  N.  of  the  Lacus  Lucrinus,  a  little  in- 
land, bounded  on  three  sides  by  hills  clothed  with  chestnuts, 
vineyards,  and  orange-gardens,  lies  the  celebrated  :,'Lacus  Avernus, 
which  was  regarded  by  the  ancients  as  the  entrance  to  the  infernal 
regions  on  account  of  its  sombre  situation  and  environs.  Its 
banks  are  now  bordered  with  blocks  of  lava.  Circumference 
nearly  '2  M. ;  depth  210  ft.  ;  height  above  the  sea-level  3 1/-j  ft. 
Tradition  affirmed  that  no  bird  could  fly  across  it  and  live,  owing 
to  its  poisonous  exhalations,  and  that  the  neighbouring  ravines 
were  the  abode  of  the  dismal ,  sunless  Cimmerii ,  mentioned  by 
Homer  (Odyss.  xi).  Virgil,  too,  represents  this  as  the  scene  of 
the  descent  of  JSneas,  conducted  by  the  Sibyl,  to  the  infernal 
regions  (yEn.  vi.  237).  Augustus .  by  the  construction  of  the 
Julian  harbour,  and  by  connecting  this  lake  with  the  Lacus 
Lucrinus,  was  the  first  to  dispel  these  gloomy  legends.  Horace 
and  Virgil  accordingly  extol  the  harbour  as  a  prodigy. 

The  canals  and  wharves  of  Agrippa  were  still  in  existence  in 
1538,  but  the  upheaval  of  the  Monte  Nuovo  destroyed  every 
vestige  of  them,  half  filled  the  Lucrine  lake,  and  so  altered  the 
configuration  of  the  neighbourhood  that  the  two  lakes  are  now 
quite  separate,  and  the  intervening  space  is  completely  overgrown 
with  underwood.  In  1858  an  attempt  was  made  to  convert  the 
Lacus  Avernus  anew  into  a  war-harbour,  but  the  .scheme  was 
soon  found  impracticable. 

On  the  S.  Side  (if  the  lake  are  observed  grottoes  and  cuttings,  hewn 
in  the  tutl'stone  rock,  which  probably  once  belonged  to  the  Portus  Julius. 
One  of  these  caverns,  situated  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  left  of  the  end 
iif  the  road  coining  from  the  Lucrine  Lake,  and  now  called  the  Grotto 
of  the  Sibyl,  or  Grottu  d'Avemo,  is  entered  by  a  galeway  of  brick,  and 
consists  of  a  long,  damp  passage  hewn  in  the  rocks  and  ventilated  by 
vertical  apertures.  About  midway  between  the  two  lakes  a  narrow  pas- 
sage to  the  right  leads  to  a  small  siuiarc  chamber,  the  l  Eiilrmirr  lit  the 
Infernal  Jieyiuns\     Xear    it   is    a    chamber    with  mosaic  pavement  and  ar- 


9b      Route  5.  BAJA.  Environs 

rangrinmts  for  a  warm  bath.  It  contains  luke-warm  water,  1  ft.  in 
depth,  which  rises  in  the  neighbourhood  and  is  styled  liy  the  guides  the 
'■Bath  of  the  Sibyl'.  The  grotto  is  280  paces  in  length,  and  blackened  with 
the  smoke  of  torches. 

On  the  N.W.  Side  of  the  lake  is  one  end  of  the  Gratia  delta  Pace 
(p.   100). 

On  the  K.  Side  are  the  interesting  ruins  of  magnificent  Baths,  some- 
times called  a   Tempte  of  Apollo,  Plvto,  or  Mercury. 

Having  returned  to  the  Baja  road,  we  reach,  about  '/2  M-  from 
the  Lucrine  Lake ,  the  ruins  of  ancient  baths ,  called  Le  Stufe 
di  Tritoli.  Near  them  a  path  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain  leads  to 
the  Bagni  di  Nerone,  a  long,  narrow,  dark  passage  in  the  rock, 
at  the  farther  end  of  which  rise  several  warm  springs,  the  famed 
Thermae  Neronianae  of  antiquity,   and  still  frequented  by  invalids. 

The  water  is  hot  enough  to  boil  eggs  (1  fr. ;  admission  to  the  baths 
'/■z  fr.).  But  there  is  nothing  worth  seeing,  and  the  interior  is  so  hot  that 
a  visit  to  it  is  anything  but  pleasant. 

After  we  have  ascended  a  little  and  rounded  the  projecting 
I'unta  deW  Epitaffio,  a  charming  view  of  Baja  is  disclosed  to  us. 
On  the  hill  to  the  right  we  observe  innumerable  fragments  of  old 
masonry,  passages,  colonnades  ,  mosaic-pavements,  etc.,  all  now 
overgrown  with  plants  and  buried  in  rubbish. 

Baja.  Gkand  Hotel  de  la  Eeina,  a  tavern  commanding  a  charming 
view,  suitable  for  breakfasting,  but  not  for  spending  the  night;  fixed 
charges,  D.  3'/4  fr.,  A.  25  c;  Albeego  della  Vittokia  ,  formerly  del  Cas- 
tello,  at  the  foot  of  the  castle,  '|2  31.  farther,  less  pretentious.  —  Guide 
unnecessary,  l-l'f-i  fr.  according  to  bargain. 

Boat  to  Pozzuoli  for  3-4  persons  about  2  fr. ;  to  Bacoli  and  3Iiseno 
the  same:  there  and  back  3-4  fr.  ;  according  to  bargain  in  each  case. 

Baja,  the  ancient  Ba'uv,  now  a  very  insignificant  village,  situat- 
ed on  the  bay  of  the  same  name  and  commanding  a  charming  view 
was  tli e  most  famous  and  magnificent  watering-place  of  antiquity, 
and  had  attained  the  zenith  of  its  splendour  in  the  age  of  Cicero, 
Augustus,  Xero,  and  Hadrian.  -Nothing  in  the  world  can  be  com- 
pared with  the  lovely  bay  of  Baiae',  exclaims  Horace's  wealthy  Ro- 
man ( Epist.  i.  85) ,  who  is  desirous  of  erecting  a  magnificent  villa 
there.  Luxury  and  profligacy,  however,  soon  took  up  their  abode 
at  Baise,  and  the  desolate  ruins  which  now  alone  encounter  the  eye 
point  the  usual  moral.  With  the  decline  of  the  Roman  empire  the 
glory  of  Baiii;  speedily  departed.  In  the  8th  cent,  it  was  devastated 
by  the  Saracens,  and  in  1500  entirely  deserted  by  its  inhabitants. 

Of  the  imposing  baths  and  villas  of  the  Romans ,  the  founda- 
tions of  which  were  often  throwti  far  out  into  the  sea,  nothing  hut 
mere  fragments  now  remain.  In  modern  times  these  ruins  are  often 
exalted  into  temples,  or  otherwise  dignified  in  a  manner  for  which 
there  is  not  the  slightest  foundation.  The  principal  remains  consist 
of  three  extensive  colonnades  which  belonged  to  baths. 

We  first  observe  in  a  vineyard  to  the  right  of  the  high  road,  and 
to  the  N.  of  the  road  to  the  Lago  Fusaro,  a  large  octagonal  build- 
ing, with  a  circular  interior,  and  four  recesses  in  the  walls,  and 
remains  of  a  water  conduit,  styled  a  Temple  of  Diana  (fee  30-50  c.  ). 


of  Naples.  BACOLI.  5.  Route.       97 

If  we  ascend  the  road  to  the  Lago  Fusaro  for  5  min.  wc  reach  a 
path  to  the  right  on  the  slope,  which  in  LO  min.  more  leads  us  to  the 
top  of  the  hill,  and  commands  an  admirahle  view   of  Cuma,    Ischia,  etc. 

Close  to  the  village,  in  another  vineyard  to  the  right  of  the  road, 
is  a  large  circular  building,  with  a  vaulted  ceiling,  open  in  the 
centre,  and  four  niches  in  the  walls,  obviously  a  bath  ,  but  called 
a  Temple  of  Mercury  ,  or  by  the  peasantry  il  troglio  (trough).  Fine 
echo  in  the  interior  (fee  30-50  c.  ;  old  women  here  offer  to  dance 
the  tarantella  for  the  traveller's  entertainment). 

A  little  farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  Hotel  della  Reina. 
About  100  paces  beyond  it,  to  the  left,  by  the  small  harbour  where 
the  boats  from  Pozzuoli  land ,  is  situated  an  octagonal  structure 
with  a  vaulted  ceiling ,  in  the  interior  circular ,  and  25  paces  in 
diameter ,  with  remains  of  the  ancient  lateral  chambers,  windows, 
and  staircases ,  somewhat  resembling  the  Minerva  Medica  at 
Rome,  now  called  the  Temple  of  Venus.  (As  this  is  a  public 
thoroughfare  ,   no  gratuity  need  be  given.") 

The  high  road  skirts  the  bay,  and  passing  several  columbaria 
on  the  left,  ascends  the  hill  occupied  by  the  Castle  of  Baja,  which 
was  erected  in  the  16th  cent,  by  Don  Pedro  de  Toledo. 

About  2  M .  beyond  Baja  we  reach  the  village  of  Bacoli,  which 
derives  its  name  from  the  ancient  Villa  Bauli,  and  also  boasts  of  a 
number  of  antiquities.  The  traveller  who  is  pressed  for  time,  how- 
ever ,  had  better  confine  his  attention  to  the  Piscina  Mirabilis 
(see  below). 

The  Villa  Bauli  is  celebrated  as  having  been  the  frequent  residence  of 
distinguished  Romans,  and  it  was  here  that  Nero  planned  the  murder  of 
his  mother  Agrippina,  March,  A.D.  59,  a  crime  which  was  afterwards 
perpetrated  at  her  villa  on  the  Lucrine  Lake.  The  tomb  of  Agrippina,  of 
humble  pretensions  as  Tacitus  informs  us  (Ann.  xiv.  9),  was  situated  on 
the  height  by  the  road  to  Misenum,  near  the  villa  of  Csesar,  but  the 
spot  cannot  now  be  exactly  determined.  What  is  commonly  named  the 
flepolcro  a"  Agrippina,  on  the  coast  below  the  village,  a  semicircular  pass- 
age with  vaulted  ceiling,  reliefs,  and  paintings,  is  really  the  ruins  of  a 
small  theatre.  Extensive  ruins  near  this,  partly  under  water,  are  supposed 
to  belong  to  the  villa  of  the  eminent  orator  Hortensius,  and  may  be  visited 
by  boat.  Even  the  pond  in  which  lie  reared  his  favourite  lampreys  is 
said  to  be  visible.  In  this  villa  Nero  is  believed  to  have  sanctioned  the 
proposition  of  his  freedman  Anicetus,  commander  of  the  fleet,  to  drown 
his  mother  Agrippina  by  sinking  her  in  a  ship.  The  attempt,  however, 
failed. 

The  Villa  of  Julius  Caesar,  on  the  height  near  Bauli,  was  afterwards 
the  property  of  Augustus,  and  was  occupied  by  his  sister  Octavia  after  the 
death  of  her  second  husband  JI.  Antony;  and  here  she  lost  her  hopeful 
son,  the  youthful  Marcellus,  whom  Augustus  had  destined  to  be  his  suc- 
cessor. It  is  believed  by  many  that  the  subterranean  chambers,  known  as 
the  Cento  Camerelle,  or  Carceri  di  Nerotie,  or  the  Labyrinth,  belonged  to 
the  basement  story  of  this  villa  (fee  '|2  fr. ).  They  are  sometimes 
visited  by  torchlight,  but  the  view  from  them   is  the  chief  attract  ion. 

On  the  hill  to  the  S.  of  Bacoli,  10  min.  from  the  entrance  to 
the  village,  is  situated  the  *Piscina  Mirabilis.  (  Guide  unnecessary. 
We  may  either  leave  the  road  by  the  Ufflzio  Daziario  and  follow 
the  long  street  of  the  village  ;  or,  better ,  follow  the  road  to  the 
bifurcation  mentioned   below,   and  60  paces  beyond  it  ascend  a 

BaFoekkb.      Tta.lv  TTT.      (1th    Rflii;™.  7 


98      Route  5.  MISENUM.  Environs 

path  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  Misenum  road.  On  the  hill  we 
turn  to  the  right.  Custodian,  whose  house  is  on  the  right,  near 
the  Piscina,  '^  fr. ;  he  sells  vases  and  other  antiquities  found  in 
the  vicinity. )  The  Piscina  is  a  reservoir  at  the  extremity  of  the 
Julian  Aqueduct,  230  ft.  in  length,  85  ft.  in  width,  with  a  vault- 
ed ceiling  supported  by  forty -eight  massive  columns,  and  ad- 
mirably preserved.  —  Following  the  top  of  the  hill  in  the  same 
direction  (>S.)  for  7  min.  more,  we  reach  a  cottage  (good  wine),  the 
roof  of  which  commands  a  very  fine  view,  though  inferior  to  that 
from  the  Capo  Miseno. 

Near  Bacoli,  about  l/t  M.  beyond  the  Ufflzio  Daziario,  the  road 
divides :  the  branch  to  the  right  leads  to  Miniscola  and  the 
(2/3M. )  starting-point  of  the  ferry-boat  to  Procida  and  Ischia  (see 
p.  99);  the  road  to  the  left  leads  in  a  straight  direction  to  Misenum. 
Both  of  these  roads  skirt  the  margin  of  the  shallow  Mare  Morte, 
part  of  the  old  harbour  of  Misenum ,  from  which  it  has  only 
recently  been  separated  by  the  embankment  which  bears  the  road. 
The  two  basins  are  now  connected  by  a  narrow  channel  only,  which 
is  crossed  by  a  bridge. 

In  the  time  of  Augustus  a  vast  war-harbour  was  constructed  at  Mise- 
num by  Agrippa ,  in  connection  with  the  works  at  the  Lacus  Avernus 
and  the  Lacus  Lucrinus,  in  order  to  serve  as  a  receptacle  for  the  Roman 
lleet  on  this  coast,  like  Ravenna  in  the  Adriatic.  The  harbour  consisted 
of  three  basins,  two  outer,  one  on  each  side  of  the  promontory  called 
Forno,  and  one  inner,  the  present  Mare  Morto.  The  Punla  di  Pennata, 
a  narrow  promontory  which  bounds  the  harbour  of  Misenum  on  the  N., 
was  penetrated  by  a  double  subaqueous  passage  for  the  purpose  of  pre- 
venting the  accumulation  of  sand  at  the  entrance.  A  pier  was  also  con- 
structed on  pillars,  three  of  which  are  still  visible  under  water.  Other 
relics  of  antiquity  abound  in  the  neighbourhood,  but  it  is  a  difficult 
matter  now  to  ascertain  to  what  they  belonged.  Even  the  situation  of 
the  Town  of  Misenum  is  not  precisely  known ,  although  it  probably  lay 
near  the  modern  village  of  that  name.  Scanty  remnants  of  a  theatre  are 
still  traceable  near  the  small  promontory  /(  Forno.  Home  ruins  on  the 
height  above  are  supposed  to  belong  to  the  once  famous  villa  of  Lucullus, 
afterwards  the  property  of  Tiberius,  who  died  here,  and  subsequently 
that  of  Nero.  The  Grotta  Dragonara,  a  long  subterranean  passage  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  promontory,  with  vaulted  roof,  supported  by  twelve 
pillars,  is  variously  conjectured  to  have  been  a  naval  depot  or  a  reser- 
voir for  water. 

The  fleet  stationed  at  Misenum,  to  which  the  place  owed  its  impor- 
tance, was  commanded  in  A.I).  79  by  the  Elder  Pliny,  who  perished 
during  the  eruption  of  Mt.  Vesuvius  (p.  113).  In  890  the  town  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  Saracens. 

Driving  is  not  allowed  beyond  the  above-mentioned  bridge, 
t/4  M.  from  the  bifurcation  of  the  road.  Beyond  it  we  pass  a 
white  powder-mill,  soon  reach  (_y2  M.)  the  village  of  Miseno, 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  cape,  and  proceed  to  the  church.  The 
ascent  (to  the  top  and  back  1 1/2  hr.  )  is  fatiguing.  We  follow 
the  main  road  to  the  Tenuta,  a  little  before  which  we  ascend  to 
the  right;  a  steep  and  narrow  path  then  leads  to  the  summit 
through  vineyards. 

The  *Capo  Miseno  is  an  isolated  mass  of  rock  rising  from  the 


of  Naples.  ARCO  FELICE.  5.  Route.      99 

sea,  which  was  formerly  only  connected  with  [the  mainland  by  the 
narrow  Spiaggia  di  Miniscola  (see  below),  extending  towards  theW. 
Its  remarkable  form  once  gave  rise  to  the  belief  that  it  was  an 
artificially  constructed  tumulus  of  very  ancient  origin.  Thus  Virgil 
(/En.  vi.  232)  describes  it  as  the  burial-place  of  the  trumpeter 
Misenus  :  — 

At  plus  JEneas  ingenti  mole  sepulcrum 
Inponit,  suaque  arma  viro  remumque  tubftmqite 
Monte  sub  aereo,  qui  nunc  Misenus  ab  illo 
Dicitur  aeternumque  tenet  per  saecula  nomen. 
The  summit  (300  ft.)  is  crowned  with  a  ruined  castle.    On  the 
side  next  the  sea  rises  a  picturesque  mediaeval  watch-tower ;   an- 
other similar  tower  has  recently  been  removed  to    make  way  for 
a  lighthouse.     The  **View  hence  is  one  of  the  most  striking  in 
the  environs  of  Naples.  It  embraces  the  bays  of  Naples  and  Gaeta 
and  the  surrounding  heights,  with  the  peculiarity  that  the  spectator 
appears  to  stand  in  the  midst  of  a  complicated  assemblage  of  straits, 
peninsulas,  bays,  lakes,  and  promontories. 

To  the  W.,  opposite  the  Capo  Miseno,  rises  the  Monte  di  Pro- 
rida,  a  volcanic  rock ,  covered  with  vineyards  yielding  excellent 
wine,   and  fragments  of  ancient  villas. 

The  narrow  strip  of  coast,  about  1  M.  in  length  .  between  the 
Capo  Miseno  and  the  Monte  di  Procida,  separating  the  sea  (Canrile 
di  Procida)  from  the  Mare  Morto,  is  called  the  Spiaggia  di  Minis- 
cola,  or  Miliscola,  a  name  which  is  said  to  he  a  corruption  of  Militia 
Schola  ('military  exercising-ground'j.  At  the  foot  of  the  Monte  di 
Procida,  at  the  point  where  the  road  from  Baja  reaches  it,  is  the 
landing-place  (Sbarcatojo)  for  boats  to  Ischia  and  Procida,  to  which 
there  are  frequent  opportunities  of  crossing.  ( To  Procida  ,  for  one 
or  more  persons  l'/2_2  fr.  ;  the  bargain  should  be  made  with  the 
boatmen  themselves.)  —  On  the  road  to  Baja,  '/4  M.  to  the  N.  of 
the  landing-place,  at  the  junction  of  the  road  with  that  from  the 
Lago  Fusaro ,  is  the  poor  Osteria  del  Monte  di  Procida  (no  sign  ; 
good  wine). 

The  N.  (right)  branch  of  the  road  ascends  gradually  from  the 
bifurcation  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  Nuovo  (p.  94),  iy2  M.  from 
Pozzuoli ,  to  the  top  of  the  E.  margin  of  the  crater  of  the  Lago 
Averno,  which  soon  becomes  visible  below  to  the  left.  About  2  M. 
farther,  where  the  road  turns  a  little  to  the  right,  a  cart-track  di- 
verges to  the  left,  leading  in  a  few  minutes  to  the  Arco  Felice,  a 
huge  structure  of  brickwork,  about  63  ft.  in  height,  and  lH1/^  ft. 
in  width,  situated  in  a  deep  gully.  On  the  summit  are  traces  of 
an  aqueduct.  The  arch  may  have  been  exclusively  destined  lor 
the  latter  purpose,  or  it  may  also  have  carried  a  road  over  the  high- 
er ground. 

The  road  to  Cumae  passes  through  the  arch  and  then  descends. 
About  400  paces  beyond  it  an  ancient  paved  way  diverges  to  the 

7* 


100      Huule  5.  CUM.'E.  Environs 

left  to  a  subterranean  vaulted  passage,  called  the  (irotta  della  Pace 
(after  Pietro  della  Puce,  a  Spaniard  who  explored  it  in  the  16th 
cent.).  It  was  constructed  by  Agrippa  for  the  purpose  of  affording 
direct  communication  between  Cumae  and  the  Lacus  Avernus.  This 
tunnel  is  upwards  of  Vo  M.  in  length,  and  is  lighted  at  intervals 
by  shafts  from  above. 

The  entrance  is  closed  liy  a  gate  (admission  b2  fr.,  or  for  a  carriage 
1  fr. ,  but  40-50  c.  will  generally  be  taken).  Carriages  require  torches 
(1  t'r.  per  pair  at  Poz'/uoli).  —  Travellers  from  Cuinre,  or  those  who  wish 
to  combine  the  excursion  to  Baja  with  a  visit  to  the  Lacus  Avernus  in 
such  a  way  as  not  to  be  obliged  to  traverse  the  same  ground  twice,  may 
avail  themselves  of  this  tunnel  in  order  to  reach  the  N.  bank  of  the 
lake  (see  p.   9o). 

We  continue  to  follow  the  road  to  Cumse,  the  acropolis  of  which 
we  observe  on  the  hill  to  theW.  About  '/jM.  from  the  Arco  Felice 
near  the  entrance  to  a  vigna  bearing  the  name  'Villa  Martino',  the 
road  forks  :  to  the  left  to  the  Lago  del  Fusaro  (p.  101)  ;  to  the 
right  (but  not  practicable  for  carriages  beyond  this  point)  to  Cum*. 
In  a  vigna  to  the  left  of  the  former  branch  of  the  road,  about  120 
paces  from  the  bifurcation,  is  situated  an  ancient  Amphitheatre  with 
twenty-one  tiers  of  seats,  covered  with  earth  and  underwood.  If 
we  follow  the  branch  of  the  road  to  the  right,  and  after  90  paces 
diverge  from  it  to  the  left,  we  are  led  through  a  farm-yard  and  by 
a  path  through  vineyards  in  */4  nr-  t°  tne  site  of  ancient  Cuma?. 

Cumae,  Greek  Cyme,  the  most  ancient  Greek  colony  in  Italy,  was 
situated  near  the  sea  on  a  volcanic  eminence  (trachyte),  which 
rises  from  the  extensive  plain  between  the  Monte  di  Procida  and 
the   mouth  of  the  Volturno. 

The  town  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  jEolians  from  Asia  Minor 
in  B.  C.  1050,  or  at  an  even  earlier  period.  Cuma-  in  its  turn  founded 
DicFearchia,  the  modern  Pozzuoli,  and  Palseopolis,  the  modern  Naples,  and 
exercised  the  most  widely  extended  influence  on  the  civilisation  of  the 
Italian  peninsula.  All  the  different  alphabets  of  Italy  were  derived  from 
the  ( 'umsean ;  and  Cumse  was  the  centre  whence  the  Hellenic  forms  of 
worship,  and  with  them  Hellenic  culture,  became  gradually  diffused  among 
the  aboriginal  tribes.  Rome  received  the  mysterious  Sibylline  books  from 
Cumse,  and  the  last  of  the  Tarquinii  died  here  in  exile.  The  city,  which 
once  boasted  of  great  wealth  and  commercial  prosperity,  was  often  seri- 
ously imperilled  by  the  attacks  of  the  neighbouring  tribes,  especially  the 
Etruscans,  who  were  signally  defeated  in  a  naval  battle  near  Cumee  ,  by 
Hiero  of  Syracuse,  the  ally  of  the  citizens,  B.C.  474.  Pindar  cele- 
brates this  victory  in  the  first  Pythian  ode ,  and  a  helmet  of  the  en- 
emy dedicated  at  Olympia  as  a  votive  offering  from  the  spoil  was  found 
tin-re  (now  in  the  British  JMuseum).  At  the  close  of  the  5th  cent.  Cumse 
participated  in  the  general  decline  of  the  Hellenic  towns.  In  4L'0  it  was 
stormed  by  the  Sainnitcs,  and  in  337  taken  by  the  Romans,  after  which 
it  became  a  Roman  municipium  of  little  importance.  Under  the  emperors 
it  fell  entirely  to  decay,  but  was  restored  by  the  Goths.  In  the  9th  cent, 
it  was  burned  by  the  Saracens,  and  in  the  13th  it  was  finally  destroyed 
as  a  stronghold  of  pirates  by  the  inhabitants  of  Naples  and  Aversa. 

Fragments  of  the  huge  external  walls  of  the  lofty  *Acropolis 
are  still  standing.  Beautiful  prospect  thence  towards  the  sea, 
Giet.a.  and  the  Ponza  Islands,  and  (to  the  left)  of  the  Lago  Fusaro, 
Isciiia,   etc.     Extensive  remains  of  the  anoient  fortifications   are 


E.  MEpomeo  (S.UicoIo. 
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N.  MJfuovo 
.ft..  ~M.Rota.ro 


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M  (ompoaho 
£_  '       ;*  P.  S-Pmura-iio 

ISCHIA 


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iiiitui  m  HAf  ill 


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i  2  j  i  MigUa.  Jtahtme 

F  'CJEBtm  e        -&f.   3fonfe    F.  Fu*vt£is    Sc.  Scogtio 


S.l     S.  .  Iqritft. 


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Geograpji  Anstait  vau. 


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GOZFO    VI    SAZEB.W  0 


"Wagnei  *3)«'be3,Xeipi 


of  Naples.  LAGO  DEL  FUSARO.  6.  Route.      101 

preserved  ,  especially  on  the  E.  side  and  by  the  8.  entrance. 
The  rook  on  which  this  castle  stands  is  perforated  in  every 
direction  with  passages  and  shafts.  One  of  these,  with  numerous 
lateral  openings  and  subterranean  passages,  is  thought  to  cor- 
respond with  the  description  given  by  Virgil  (Mn.  vi.  41)  of  the 
Grotto  of  the  Sibyl,  which  had  a  hundred  entrances  and  as  many 
issues,  'whence  resound  as  many  voices,  the  oracles  of  the  pro- 
phetess'. The  principal  entrance  is  on  the  side  of  the  hill  to- 
wards the  sea,  but  most  of  the  passages  are  blocked  up.  It  is 
believed  that  one  of  the  passages  leads  to  a  large,  dark  cavern 
in  the  direction  of  the  Lago  del  Fusaro,  but  the  investigations  have 
been  abandoned  as  dangerous.  —  The  form  of  the  temples  of 
Apollo,  Diana,  the  Giants,  and  Serapis,  where  recent  excava- 
tions have  brought  sculptures  and  columns  to  light,  is  not  now 
traceable.  The  scanty  ruins  are  concealed  among  vineyards  and 
underwood. 

Numerous  tombs  have  been  discovered  at  the  base  of  the  ruck  of  Cuma', 
many  of  which  were  explored  by  the  Count  of  Syracuse  and  yielded  a 
rich  spoil,  consisting  of  vases  and  valuables  of  every  kind.  Some  of  these 
were  taken  to  the  collection  of  Marchese  Campana  at  lioine,  whence  they 
were  afterwards  transferred   to  the  Museums  of  Paris    and  St.  Petersburg. 

To  the  S.  of  Cumee  is  situated  ^I'j-j  31.)  the  Lago  del  Fusaro,  perhaps 
once  the  harbour  of  Cumse,  to  which  the  poetical  name  of  the  Acherusiau 
Lake  is  sometimes  applied.  It  is  still,  as  in  ancient  times,  celebrated  for 
its  oysters.  In  the  centre  is  a  pavilion,  erected  by  Ferdinand  I.  The  lake 
is  believed  to  he  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano,  and  as  lately  as  1838 
it  exhaled  such  volumes  of  mephitic  gases  that  the  oysters  were  destroyed 
by  them.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  lake  is  a  Roman  'emissarius1.  the  Foce  del 
Fifxaro,  which  connects  it  with  the  sea.  To  the  N.  of  the  emissarius,  on 
a  projecting  tongue  of  land,  stands  the  Torre  di  Gaveta  ,  with  extensive 
ruins  of  the  villa  of  Servilius  Vatiu,  who  retired  hither  when  Nero's  folly 
and  tyranny  at  Rome  had  become  insufferable.  —  A  road  leads  from  the 
Lago  del  Fusaro,  passing  numerous  relics  of  ancient  tombs,  to  (3|4  31.) 
Raja,  and  another  to  (2'|2  31.)  Miniscola  (p.  99). 

6.     Procida  and  Ischia. 

A  visit  to  these  charming  islands  requires  two  days.  A  Steamboat 
(Hocietd  iW  Yapori  Procida- Ischia;  office  at  Naples,  Strada  3Iolo  Piccolo 
34)  plies  between  Naples  and  Casaniieeiola  in  Ischia  once  daily  (some- 
times twice  in  summer),  in  21;-3  hrs.,  the  intervening  stations  heing 
Procida  and  the  town  of  Ischia .  It  usually  starts  from  the  3Iolo  Pic- 
colo at  Naples  (p.  43;  near  the  Immacolatella,  PL  F,  5)  at  1.  30  or  2 
p.  m.  (Thurs.  and  Sat.  at  8.30  a.  in. ),  returning  from  Casamicciola 
at  6.  a.  m.  (Thurs.  and  Sat.  at  4  p.  m.).  Farther  information  may  be 
obtained  at  any  of  the  hotels.  Fares  :  cabin  5,  'poltrone'  (arm-chair)  (i  fr.; 
steerage  3'|2  fr. ;  return-tickets  6  fr.  (enquiry  should  be  made  as  to  the 
time  for  which  these  last  are  available  ,  as  it  varies).  The  steamers  are 
small  and  sometimes  crowded.  Embarking  or  landing  at  Naples,  or  at 
Casamicciola,  20  c.  each  person;  at  Procida  or  Ischia  10  c. ;  the  boatmen 
are  rarely  satisfied  with  this  tariff,  but  their  importunities  should  be  dis- 
regarded. 

First  Day.  A  visit  to  Procida,  which  may  be  paid  either  in  going  to  or 
returning  from  Ischia,  occupies  a  few  hours  only.  In  the  former  case 
we  land  at  the  town  .if  Procida  on  the  N.  side,  ascend  to  the  fort  for  the 
sake  of  the  view,  and  then  traverse  the  island  lengthwise  to  the  creek  of 


102      Route  6.  PROCIDA.  Environs 

Chiajolella  (2  M.),  where  boats  are  found  for  the  crossing  to  Ischia  (li|2  fr.). 
After  landing  in  Ischia  we  walk  or  ride  (donkey  l1^  fr.)  to  Casamicciola, 
and  pass  the  night  there  (the  inns  at  Procida  and  Ischia  being  poor).  On 
the  Second  Day  we  ascend  the  Epomeo ,  either  going  or  returning  by 
Forio. 

A  visit  to  these  islands  may  be  very  conveniently  combined  with  the 
excursion  to  Cumse  and  Baja.  After  breakfasting  at  Baja,  we  arrange  to 
start  thence  about  11  a.  m.,  drive  by  Bacoli  (pp.  97,  98;  visit  the  Piscina 
Mirabilis ;  see  the  view  from  the  roof  of  the  cottage  ;  no  time  for  the  Capo 
Miseno)  to  Miniscola  in  l-l^j  hr.,  cross  to  Procida  (p. 99)  in  3|4-lhr.  (visit 
the  castle  if  time  permits ,  3jt  hr.) ,  and  then  proceed  by  steamboat  to 
Casamicciola  (1  hr. ;  fare  3fr.  25c.).  —  The  second  day  may  then  be  spent 
as  indicated  above ,  and  on  the  third  we  return  to  "Naples.  —  A  rowing- 
boat  takes  6  hrs.  to  cross  from  Ischia  to  Capri  in  line  weather  (20  fr.). 

Procida,  the  Prochyta  or  Prochyte  of  the  ancients,  like  its 
sister  island  Ischia,  with  which  it  appears  once  to  have  been  con- 
nected is  of  volcanic  origin,  being  composed  of  pumice-stone 
and  lava.  It  consists  of  two  contiguous  craters,  which  now  form 
two  semicircular  bays ,  their  S.  margins  having  been  destroyed 
by  the  action  of  the  sea.  A  third  and  smaller  crater  forms 
the  creek  of  Ohiajolella,  and  a  fourth  the  neighbouring  island 
of  Vivara,  which  has  been  separated  from  Procida  by  some  con- 
vulsion of  nature.  The  island  is  3  M.  in  length,  varying  in 
width,  and  being  very  narrow  at  places  ;  population  13,600,  whose 
occupations  are  fishing  and  the  cultivation  of  the  vine  and  other 
fruit.  The  surface  is  somewhat  flat  compared  with  that  of  its 
more  majestic  sister  isle. 

As  the  island  of  Procida  is  approached ,  the  most  conspic- 
uous object  is  the  fort,  situated  on  the  Punta  di  Rocciola,  the 
N.W.  extremity.  Below  lies  the  town  of  Procida,  extending  a- 
long  the  N.  coast,  partly  built  on  the  higher  ground  above,  and 
stretching  thence  towards  the  S.  side.  The  white,  glistening 
houses  with  their  flat  roofs  present  a  somewhat  Oriental  aspect. 
On  festivals,  especially  that  of  St.  Michael  (29th  Sept.),  the 
women  in  commemoration  of  their  ancient  origin  assume  the 
Greek  costume  (red  upper  garment  with  gold  embroidery),  and 
perform  the  tarantella,   their  national  dance. 

The  landing-place  is  on  the  N.  side,  and  close  to  it  is  the  in- 
different Vittoria  inn  (R.,  B.,  and  D.  4-5  fr. ,  bargaining  necessary). 
In  order  to  reach  the  castle  we  follow  the  main  street  of  the  village 
which  ascends  to  the  left  by  the  Cafe'  del  Commercio  at  the  W. 
end  of  the  Marina,  and  take  the  first  side-street  to  the  left.  This 
leads  to  the  small  Piazza  dei  Martiri,  where  a  tablet  was  placed  in 
1863  in  memory  of  twelve  Procidans  who  were  executed  during 
the  reaction  of  1799  (fine  view  towards  the  S. ).  In  5  min.  more 
we  reach  the  Castle,  now  a  house  of  correction,  situated  on  a  pre- 
cipitous rock,  and  commanding  fine  *views  of  Procida  and  the 
Epomeo,  Capo  Miseno,  Capri,  Vesuvius,  and  the  peninsula  of 
Sorrento. 

The  above  mentioned  main  street  intersects  the  town  from  E. 
to  W.,  and  is  prolonged  to  the  left  by  the  'Strada  Vittorio  Ema- 


of  Naple*.  ISCHIA.  6.  Route.    1U£> 

nuele',  which  runs  between  garden-walls  and  rows  of  houses,  and 
traverses  the  whole  island  towards  the  S.W.  In  40  min.  we  reach 
the  Bay  of  Chiajolella,  situated  below  the  old  chateau  of  S.  Mar- 
garita ,  and  near  the  small  olive -clad  island  of  Vivara.  At  the 
Chiajolella  boats  for  the  passage  to  Ischia  are  always  to  be  found 
(3/4  hr.  ;  fare  l'^fr-l-  As  soon  as  we  have  passed  Vivara,  we 
obtain  a  view  of  Ischia  with  its  beautiful  hills,  commanded  by  the 
summit  of  the  Bpomeo,  with  the  town  and  castle  of  Ischia  in  the 
foreground. 

Ischia,  the  Pithecusa,  Mnaria,  or  Inarime  of  antiquity,  and 
the  mediieval  Iscla  ,  the  largest  island  near  Naples,  is  about  19 
M.  in  circumference,  without  taking  the  numerous  indentations 
into  account,  and  has  25,000  inhabitants,  who  are  principally 
engaged  in  fishing  and  the  culture  of  the  vine  (white  wine,  light 
and  slightly  acid)  and  other  fruit.  The  climate  is  genial,  the  soil 
extremely  productive ;  the  scenery  almost  everywhere  singularly 
beautiful,  for  which  it  is  indebted  to  its  volcanic  origin.  Monte 
Epomeo  (the  ancient  Epomeus,  or  Epopeus)  was  an  active  volcano 
at  a  much  earlier  period  than  Vesuvius,  and  in  consequence  of 
its  eruptions  the  island  was  deserted  in  B.  C.  474  by  the  greater 
number  of  the  Greek  inhabitants.  Eruptions  also  took  place  in 
B.  C.  92 ,  and  in  the  reigns  of  Titus ,  Antoninus  Pius ,  and 
Diocletian.  According  to  the  ancient  poets,  the  giant  Typhosus, 
transfixed  by  the  thunderbolt  of  Jupiter,  lay  buried  beneath  this 
mountain ,  like  Enceladus  under  ^Etna ,  periodically  groaning 
and  causing  fearful  eruptions  of  fire.  The  last  eruption  recorded 
took  place  in  1302.  The  stream  of  lava  which  on  that  occasion 
descended  to  the  sea  near  Ischia  is  not  yet  covered  with  ve- 
getation ,   and  resembles  a  black  seam  athwart  the  landscape. 

After  the  fall  of  Rome  Ischia  suffered  many  attacks  and  devastations 
at  the  hands  of  the  different  lords  of  Italy,  especially  the  Saracens  in  813 
and  847,  the  Pisans  in  1135,  and  the  Emp.  Henry  VI.  and  his  son 
Frederick  II.  In  1282  it  revolted  with  Sicily  against  the  Anjou  dynasty, 
but  was  subdued  by  Charles  II.  of  Xaples  in  1299,  and  has  since  been 
united  with  the  kingdom  and  shared  its  vicissitudes.  The  celebrated 
general,  the  Marchess  Pescara,  was  born  in  1489  at  the  castle  of  Ischia, 
which  was  afterwards  gallantly  defended  by  his  sister  Constance  against 
the  forces  of  Louis  XII.  of  France.  As  a  reward,  her  family  were  invested 
with  the  governorship  of  Ischia,  which  they  retained  till  1734.  In  1525 
Pescara's  widow,  Vittoria  Colonna,  celebrated  alike  for  her  talent  and 
beauty,  the  poetical  friend  of  Michael  Angelo,  retired  to  Ischia  to  mourn 
her  husband's  loss.  So  too  "Maria  of  Arragon  in  1548,  widow  of  the  3Iar- 
chese  del  Vasto. 

The  charming  situation  of  this  island  has  attracted  numerous 
visitors  in  all  ages,  and  its  influence  is  as  fascinating  as  ever. 
A  sojourn  here,  particularly  during  the  height  of  summer,  is  re- 
commended on  account  of  the  refreshing  coolness  of  the  air.  The 
N.  side,  having  been  most  exposed  to  volcanic  action,  is  far 
more  beautiful  than  the  S.  The  principal  towns  are  Ischia, 
Casamiccibla,  and  Forio. 


1  04    Route  G.  JSCHIA.  Environs 

Ischia,  the  capital  of  the  island,  with  6500  inhab.,  and  the 
seat  of  a  bishop ,  stretches  picturesquely  along  the  shore  in  the 
form  of  a  street,  1  M.  in  length,  extending  from  the  Castle  on  its 
lofty  isolated  rock  on  the  S.  to  the  Punta  Molina  on  the  N.  The 
castle,  erected  by  Alphonso  V.  of  Arragon  (I.  of  Naples)  about 
1450,  and  connected  with  the  land  by  a  stone  pier,  is  only  shown 
by  permission  of  the  commandant,  who  sometimes  makes  difficulties. 

The  route  to  Casamicciola  (i]/o  M. )  is  very  beautiful  at  places. 
From  the  landing-place  at  Ischia  we  follow  the  road  to  the  right 
in  a  straight  direction,  crossing  the  Lava  dell'  Arso,  or  lava-stream 
of  1302,  which  did  not  descend  from  Epomeo,  but  from  a  neigh- 
bouring side-crater,  where  slag  and  pumice-stone  are  still  observ- 
ed. About  1  M.  from  Ischia ,  after  passing  a  royal  park  and 
casino  on  the  left,  we  reach  an  old  crater,  formerly  the  Lake  of 
Ischia,  which  has  been  connected  with  the  sea  in  order  to  afford 
refuge  to  vessels  in  stormy  weather.  Near  it  are  several  warm 
salt  springs,  which  are  used  at  the  different  establishments  of  the 
Bagni  d' Ischia.  On  the  quay  is  the  small  Caffe  dei  Viaggiatori, 
with  rooms  and  baths. 

The  road  ('Via  Querela'")  ascends  to  the  left  by  a  yellow  church 
with  Ionic  columns,  being  accompanied  by  the  telegraph  wires,  and 
commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  rocky  coast  and  the  sea. 
About  2'/2  M.  farther  we  reach  the  first  houses  of  Casamicciola. 
and  1  M.  beyond  them  the  hotels. 

Casamicciola..  Arrival  by  Steamer.  The  landing-place  is  25  min. 
walk  from  the  loftily  sitnated  hotels ;  landing  or  embarcation  20  c. ;  don- 
key to  the  hotels  50  c. ;  road  ascending  to  the  right  not  to  he  mistaken. 
Order  is  now  strictly  maintained  at  the  landing-place  by  the  authorities. 
Most  of  the  hotels  send  a  facchino  to  meet  the  steamboat. 

Hotels,  all  fitted  up  for  persons  making  a  prolonged  stay;  for  pass- 
ing visitors  as  dear  as  first-class  hotels ,  though  inferior.  They  are  all 
detached,  situated  in  gardens,  and  commanding  beautiful  views.  "Hotel 
Bellevue  ,  the  yellow  house  farthest  to  the  right,  with  the  finest  view, 
visited  by  Garibaldi  in  1863;  *  La  Gican  Sentinella  ,  a  grotesque - 
looking,  pink  house,  delightfully  situated,  pension  9  fr.  Lower  down: 
Hotel  l>es  Etrangers  (Piccula  Setitiitella),  a  comfortable  house,  English 
landlady,  11.  3,  D.  4'/2,  L-  and  A.  I'/a,  pension  7  fr.  —  Hotel  JIanzi,  near 
the  bath-house  ;  Balboni,  on  the  way  to  the  Marina. 

Pensions.  "Villa  de  Kivaz,  8fr. ;  Villa  Sauve  (.French),  8  fr.  ;  both 
near  the  Gran  Sentinella;  Villa  Pisano,  etc.  —  Furnished  rooms  at  the 
Villa  Balsamo ,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town  from  Ischia ,  and  in  many 
other  houses. 

Donkeys  and  Mules ,  strong  and  swift ,  generally  1  fr.  per  hour ;  for 
the  ascent  of  the  Epomeo  and  hack  3-4  fr.,  or  including  Forio  5  fr. 
and   fee. 

Casamicciola,  a  village  with  4000inhab.,  consisting  of  several 
large  groups  of  houses  and  a  number  of  scattered  dwellings,  ex- 
tends from  the  sea  up  the  N.  slope  of  the  Epomeo.  The  higher 
parts  of  it  afford  charming  views,  particularly  towards  the  E.,  em- 
bracing the  N.  creeks  of  the  Bay  of  Naples  as  far  as  Mt.  Vesuvius. 
It  is  much  frequented  in  summer  (June  to  Sept.  )  for  the  sake  of 
its  thermal   springs,  which  contain   salt,   soda,   carbonic  acid  ,   and 


of  Naples.  ISCHIA.  0.  Route.    105 

sulphur.  The  baths  are  well  organised.  The  chief  spring  is  the 
(Jurgitello  (upwards  of  144°  Fahr. ),  which,  like  most  of  the  others, 
rises  in  the  Vallone  Ombrasco.  The  traveller  will  find  this  a  plea- 
sant place  for  a  prolonged  stay. 

Many  beautiful  walks  and  excursions  may  be  taken  from  Casa- 
micciola.  Thus  to  the  W.,  to  the  village  of  Lucco,  situated  on  the 
lava-stream  which  forms  the  N.W.  extremity  of  the  island.  Here 
are  situated  the  church  and  monastery  of  St.  Rcstitutu .  the  pa- 
troness of  the  island,  on  the  occasion  of  whose  festival  ( 17th May) 
numerous  Greek  costumes  and  dancers  of  the  tarantella  are  ob- 
served. Near  the  monastery  and  in  the  garden  attached  to  it 
rise  hot  springs  which  are  used  for  vapour-baths. 

Forio,  the  most  populous  place  in  the  island  after  Ischia, 
with  6100  inhab.,  lies  on  the  W.  coast,  2'/.2  M.  distant.  The 
Franciscan  monastery  by  the  sea  merits  a  visit  on  account  of  the 
beauty  of  its  situation. 

The  ascent  of  the  mountain  **  Epomeo  (2600  ft.  J,  or  Monte 
S.  Nicola,  the  finest  of  all  the  excursions  ,  may  be  undertaken 
from  any  of  the  principal  towns.  It  occupies  .")-6  hrs.,  and  is  a 
very  fatiguing  walk.  Donkeys  (p.  11.14 J  are  generally  used  for  the 
ascent.  The  descent  may  be  made  by  Ischia  or  Forio,  in  order 
that  the  traveller  may  thus  become  acquainted  with  the  greater 
part  of  the  island.  The  descent  by  Ischia  is  preferable  for  the 
sake  of  the  fine  view  obtained  of  the  bays  of  Pozzuoli  and  Naples. 
The  afternoon  and  evening  lights  are  the  most  favourable  for  the 
view.     A  moonrise,  too,  is  often  very  beautiful. 

The  route  from  Casamicciola  flrst  descends  to  the  left  by  the 
public  rooms  and  follows  the  road  to  Ischia.  The  footpath  then 
ascends  to  the  right,  occasionally  traversing  precipitous  ravines. 
The  vegetation  changes :  below  are  vineyards,  above  them  chest- 
nut-woods, and  then  barren,  rocky  ground.  Beyond  the  culminating 
point  of  the  pass,  the  path  skirts  the  S.  side  of  the  mountain, 
below  the  principal  peaks ,  and  ascends  in  long  zigzags  to  the 
hermitage  (donkey  in  '2l/.>  hrs.  ;   on  foot,   direct,   in  '2  hrs. J. 

On  the  summit  are  a  Hermitage  and  the  Chapel  of  S.  Nicola. 
hewn  in  the  volcanic;  rock.  Wine  and  bread  may  be  obtained 
here,  and  in  any  case  a  trifling  donation  is  expected.  Passages 
and  steps  cut  in  the  rock  ascend  to  the  **Belvedere,  commanding 
a  strikingly  beautiful  panorama,  embracing  the  bays  of  Gaeta  and 
Naples.  At  our  feet  lies  the  island  of  Ischia  itself;  to  the  \Vr. 
the  open  sea;  to  the  K.  the  coast  of  Italy  from  Terracina ,  the 
promontory  of  Circello,  and  the  Ponza  islands  to  Capo  Miseno, 
Vesuvius,  and  the  Capo  Campanella,  the  extremity  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Sorrento;  in  the  foreground  Prooida ,  then  the  inden- 
tations of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  to  the  right  the  island  of  Capri  : 
towards  the  N.   the  distant  snowy  peaks  of  the  Abruzzi. 

The  descent  by  the  villages   of  Fi.ntttnit,  Mornpiino.    and  ('nsn- 


106    Koutr  6.  ISCHIA.  Environs 

bona,  and  lastly  across  a  desolate  lava-field  to  Ischia,  takes  2'/4  hrs., 
and  the  route  by  Panvi  to  Forio  about  as  long.  Both  the  ascent 
and  descent  afford  charming  views. 

The  following  extracts  from  the  writings  of  Nicolovius,  an  eminent 
German  author,  and  husband  of  Gcethe's  niece,  although  dating  from  1792, 
are  in  most,  respects  still  applicable  to  Ischia. 

'The  climate  of  this  charming  island  is  genial,  the  sky  rarely  overcast, 
the  winters  mild,  the  inhabitants  bounteously  supplied  by  nature  with  the 
necessaries  of  life,  and  the  sick  with  healing  springs.  Trees,  shrubs,  and 
all  kinds  of  plants  thrive  luxuriantly  in  the  rich  volcanic  soil.  Here  and 
there  are  observed  groves  of  young  oaks  and  chestmits.  Orange,  pome- 
granate, fig,  and  arbutus  trees  are  the  most  common  in  the  gardens  ;  the 
myrtle  and  mastich-tree  form  the  most  frequent  underwood  in  the  unculti- 
vated parts.  The  inhabitants  are  distinguished  by  a  peculiar  dialect, 
costume,  and  figure.  Fashion  is  unknown.  The  island  cannot  boast  of  a 
single  carriage  or  horse.  The  king  himself  on  landing  here  must,  like  the 
humblest  inhabitant,  have  recourse  to  a  donkey,  unless  he  prefers  to 
walk  ....  Nowhere  have  we  seen  the  tarantella,  or  national  Neapolitan 
dance,  in  greater  perfection  than  here.  It  is  usually  performed  by  two 
girls  ;  a  third  plays  on  the  tambourine  and  sings.  The  woes  of  an  absent 
or  unhappy  lover  are  usually  the  theme  of  the  song.  In  many  of  them 
the  Madonna  and  Cupintu  (Cupid)  are  depicted  as  in  perfect  harmony  with 
each  other.  The  dancers  stand  opposite  to  each  other,  grasp  the  corners 
of  their  broad  aprons,  and  begin  their  evolutions.  They  place  their  arms 
alternately  akimbo,  while  the  disengaged  hand  grasping  the  apron  raises 
it  high  in  the  air,  and  occasionally  draws  it  tightly  across  the  knee.  The 
posture  and  the  manipulation  of  the  apron  changes  incessantly.  At  one 
time  the  dancers  flit  past  each  other,  at  another  with  a  slight  curt- 
soy  and  sweep  of  the  foot  give  the  sign  to  meet  again,  whereupon  they 
let  go  their  aprons  and  career  round  in  a  circle,  striking  their  castanets 
with  upraised  hands  ,  or  imitating  the  sound  with  their  fingers.  The  ca- 
price of  the  dancer  is  capable  of  imparting  an  entirely  different  character 
to  the  dance,  which  is  generally  intended  to  manifest  the  state  of  the  feel- 
ings. Fortunata,  a  relative  of  our  host,  performed  the  dance  one  evening, 
at  our  request,  with  an  uncouth  Lombard  youth,  and  the  expression  of  the 
dance  was  one  of  bitter  derision.' 

7.  From  Naples  to  Pompeii  (and  Salerno). 
Herculaneum.     La  Favorita. 

Comp.   Map,  p.    100. 

Railway  to  Pompeii,  15  31.,  in  50  min.;  fares  2  fr.  75,  1  fr.  90,  1  fr.  10  c. 
(return-tickets  4  fr.  50,  3  fr.   10,  1  fr.  85  c). 

The  railway  from  Naples  to  Pompeii,  and  thence  to  Salerno 
and  Roinagnano  (best  views  to  the  right),  traverses  the  suburbs 
and  crosses  the  insignificant  Sebeto,  a  stream  which  bounds  Naples 
on  the  E.  The  large  red  buildings  on  the  right  are  the  Ortinili, 
which  are  used  as  barracks  and  (as  their  name  imports)  corn-maga- 
zines. Beyond  these  we  obtain  a  retrospect  of  the  Castel  S.  Elmo. 
This  district  is  densely  peopled;  the  first  village  is  the  straggling 
S.  (lionnnni  a  Teducrio.  To  the  right  the  view  becomes  less  cir- 
cumscribed ;  and  Naples.  thePosilipo,  beyond  which  rise  the  moun- 
tains of  Ischia,  the  island  of  Gapri  opposite,  and  the  peninsula 
of    Sorronto  are   now    visible. 

5  M.  Portici.  Pension  du  Vesuvk,  near  the  royal  palace,  with  view, 
1(1  fr.  per  day.  At  the  station,  BrUt'vue.  an  indifferent  restaurant  (bar- 
gaining necessary). 


of  Naples.  HERCULANEL'M.  7.  Route.    107 

Carriages.  With  one  horse  to  the  Piazza  del  Municipio  at  Naples 
l'/2  fr.,  "r  from  one  hour  after  sunset  till  midnight  2'/4  fr. ;  to  the  Rivi- 
era di  Chiaja  2  or  3  fr. ;  to  the  Iluseo  Jfazionale  1  fr.  75,  or  2  fr.  60  c; 
to  Resina  50  or  75  c.  —  With  two  horses  double  these  fares. 

Portici,  a  town  with  11,800  inhab. ,  has  a  small  harbour  formed 
by  a  molo.  The  high  road  from  Naples  to  Salerno  traverses  the 
town,  and  also  leads  through  the  court  of  the  palace  built  by 
Charles  111.  in  1738.  

Adjoining  Portici ,  immediately  beyond  the  palace ,  are  the 
houses  of  Resina,  a  town  with  12,200  inhab.,  built  upon  the  lava- 
streams  which  cover  the  ancient  Herculaneum.  About  >/4  M. 
beyond  the  palace,  and  200  paces  beyond  the  office  of  the  Vesuvius 
guides,  immediately  on  this  side  of  a  viaduct  crossing  the  Vicolo 
di  Mare,  and  to  the  right  of  the  high  road,  is  the  entrance  to  the 
excavations.  —  Distance  thither  from  the  Portici  station  2/3  M.  ( guide 
unnecessary).  On  leaving  the  station  we  follow  the  main  street 
to  the  right,  and  after  7  min.  turn  to  the  left  ('Linea  Daziaria  del 
Comune  di  Resina');  in  5  min.  more,  near  the  palace  of  Portici 
I  on  the  left)  we  reach  the  above  mentioned  high  road  which  we 
follow  to  the  right.  Over  the  entrance  is  the  inscription,  'Scavi 
di  Ercolano'.  Admission  2  fr.,  for  which  the  visitor  is  provided 
with  a  guide  (no  fees)  ;  on  Sundays  gratis. 

Heratlctneum,  the  Heracleia  of  the  Greeks,  derived  its  name  from  the 
worship  of  Hercules  peculiar  to  the  place.  Tradition  attributed  its 
foundation  to  the  hero  himself,  who  during  his  wanderings  in  the  West 
visited  this  district.  It  was  inhabited  by  Oscans,  the  aboriginal  natives 
of  the  country,  by  Etruscans,  and  by  Sainnites  ,  before  it  became  subject 
to  Rome.  Owing  to  its  salubrious  situation  on  a  height ,  between  two 
rivers,  and  being  near  the  sea  and  the  harbour  of  Resina,  it  became  a 
favourite  site  for  Roman  villas  (thus  that  of  Servilia  ,  sister  of  C'ato  of 
Ttica).  The  spot  retained  its  name  even  after  the  total  annihilation  of 
the  town  by  the  eruption  of  79.  A  number  of  poor  families  then  took  up 
their  abode  here,  but  in  472  their  village  was  again  destroyed  by  an  eruption, 
which  altered  the  configuration  of  the  whole  coast.  Subsequent  eruptions 
increased  the  depth  of  ashes  and  lava  under  which  the  old  town  was 
buried  to  40-100  ft.  ,  that  being  the  depth  of  the  remains  at  the  present 
day  below  the  surface  of  the  soil.  The  discovery  of  Herculaneum  took 
place  in  1719.  Prince  d'Elboeuf  of  Lorraine,  whilst  erecting  a  casino 
at  Portici,  caused  a  well  to  be  dug  to  supply  it  with  water.  This 
led  to  the  discovery,  at  a  depth  of  about  90  ft.,  of  the  ancient  thea- 
tre, where  a  number  of  statues  were  found.  Two  of  these,  beautiful 
portrait-statues  of  an  old  and  a  younger  woman ,  are  now  in  the  mu- 
seum at  Dresden.  During  the  next  thirty  years  the  excavations  were 
discontinued,  but  in  1737  Charles  III.,  when  engaged  in  erecting  a  palace  at 
Tortici,  recommenced  operations,  which  were  unfortunately  directed  by 
unskilful  bands  and  led  to  no  satisfactory  result;  nor  was  it  an  easy  task 
to  remove  the  huge  masses  of  tuffstone  and  lava  which  covered  the  ruins, 
especially  as  the  buildings  and  streets  of  Portici  and  Resina  were  thereby 
undermined.  In  1750  a  long,  narrow  passage  was  hewn  through  the  rock, 
leading  to  the  theatre,  which  lies  69  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  street,  and 
this  is  the  entrance  at  the  present  day.  In  1755  the  Aecadein/a  Ercolanese 
was  instituted  for  the  investigation  of  the  antiquities  discovered,  and 
under  their  auspices  was  published  the  'Pitture  d'Ercolano1  in  9  vols. 
(Napoli,  1757),  which  caused  immense  sensation  in  the  learned  world. 
The  excavations  during  the  next  50  years  were  conducted  too  superficially 


1  08      Route  7.  HERCULANEUM.  From  Naples 

and  unsystematically,  but  progressed  more  favourably  under  the  French 
kings  Joseph  Napoleon  (1806-8)  and  Joachim  Murat  (1808-15).  Under  the Bour- 
hons  operations  were  suspended  till  1828.  Many  of  the  most  interesting 
objects  were  excavated  and  again  covered ;  thus  the  theatre ,  part  of 
the  forum  with  its  colonnades,  a  basilica  similar  to  that  of  Pompeii, 
private  houses,  etc.  Although  the  works  were  carried  on  without  any  defin- 
ite plan,  the  yield  was  remarkably  rich,  and  has  furnished  the  museum 
of  Naples  with  a  large  proportion  of  its  most  valuable  treasures,  including 
statues,  busts,  mural  paintings,  inscriptions,  and  utensils  of  all  kinds.  In 
the  chamber  of  one  house  the  extensive  papyrus  library  of  3000  rolls  was 
discovered.  The  excavations  were  recommenced  with  great  ceremony  in 
1868,  but.  as  they  are  conducted  on  a  limited  scale  no  great  results  have 
yet  been  obtained.  In  due  time,  however,  a  number  of  interesting  dis- 
coveries may  confidently  be  expected.  This  is  all  the  more  likely  as  the 
ancients  appear  soon  to  have  given  up  their  search  for  objects  of  value 
here  as  being  unprofitable ;  and  while  Pompeii  was  thoroughly  explored 
and  ransacked,  the  treasures  of  Hereulaneum  have  been  preserved  for  the 
benefit  of  posterity  by  the  mantle  of  lava  with  which  they  are  enveloped. 
The  attractions  presented  by  Herculaneum  are  at  present  of  a  very 
limited  character,  but  an  opportunity  of  seeing  them  should  not  be  neglect- 
ed. The  visit  may  be  paid  on  the  way  to  Mt.  Vesuvius,  or,  better  still, 
after  the  excursion  to  Pompeii. 

From  the  entrance  we  are  first  conducted  down  a  dark  flight 
of  more  than  a  hundred  steps  to  the  Theatre,  of  which  an  accurate 
idea  is  not  easily  formed  by  the  light  of  the  flickering  candle. 
Owing  to  the  buttresses  built  to  support  the  rock  above,  the 
place  rather  resembles  a  profoundly  dark  subterranean  labyrinth. 
It  contains  nineteen  tiers  of  seats  in  six  compartments  (cunei) : 
between  these,  seven  flights  of  steps  ascended  to  a  broad  corridor, 
above  which  was  situated  a  colonnade  with  three  more  tiers 
of  seats.  The  number  of  spectators  it  could  contain  has  been 
variously  computed  at  from  8000  to  30,000,  the  latter  number 
being  certainly  too  high.  The  orchestra  lies  85  ft.  below  the 
level  of  the  modern  Resina,  and  is  faintly  lighted  from  above 
through  the  shaft  of  the  well  which  was  the  occasion  of  the  dis- 
covery. One  inscription  records  that  L.  Annius  Mammianus  Rufus 
erected  the  theatre,  another  that  Numisius,  son  of  Publius,  was 
the  architect.  On  each  side  of  the  proscenium  are  pedestals  for 
statues,   with  inscriptions. 

A  visit  to  the  buildings  brought  to  light  by  the  Scuvi  Nuovi 
of  1828  to  1837,  and  resumed  in  1808,  is  of  far  higher  interest. 
We  are  conducted  by  the  custodian  down  the  Vicolo  di  Mare 
|  p.  107)  for  4  min.  ;  the  entrance  is  by  an  iron  gate  to  the  left. 
A  street,  part  of  a  large  private  house,  and  several  houses  used  for 
trading  purposes  have  been  excavated  here.  They  lie  40  ft.  below 
the  present  surface,  and  the  different  layers  of  the  superincumbent 
lava  are  readily  distinguished.  The  houses  with  their  fittings  and 
decorations  resemble  those  of  Pompeii.  The  building-material  is 
a  yellow  tufa  from  Mte.  Somma,  of  very  soft  consistency,  which 
accounts  for  the  thickness  of  the  walls.  The  garden  of  the  principal 
iiou.se,  that  of  the  Argus,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  objects. 
It  is  enclosed   by  an  arcade  of  twenty  columns  and  six  buttresses. 


to   Pompeii.  TORRE  DEL  GRECO.  7.   Route.    109 

To  the  right  of  it  is  a  triclinium  with  a  painting  (not  now  visible) 
of  Argus  and  Ino,  from  which  the  house  derives  its  name.  Towards 
the  sea,  the  proximity  of  which  at  that  period  is  indicated  by  the 
rapid  descent  of  the  street,  are  situated  magazines,  three  stories 
in  height,   and  well  preserved. 

About  2/3  M.  beyond  the  entrance  to  the  theatre,  and  also  close 
to  the  high  road,  is  situated  the  royal  chateau  of  La  Favorita 
(permesso,  see  p.  40;  gratuity  lfe  fr.).  The  interior  hardly  merits 
a  visit,  but  the  garden  contains  pleasant  grounds  extending  as  far 
as  the  railway  and  down  to  the  sea.  A  casino  in  the  grounds 
affords  a  fine  view  of  the  peninsula  of  Sorrento.  A  visit  to  the 
Favorita  is  recommended  after  the  ascent  of  Vesuvius,  when  the 
vegetation  and  quiet  of  the  gardens  will  be  found  very  grateful. 


Near  Portici  we  enjoy  a  line  view  from  the  railway  of  the  Bay 
of  Naples  with  the  Castello  dell'  Ovo  and  Pizzofalcone,  commanded 
by  Camaldoli ;  in  the  background  the  Capo  Miseno  and  the  moun- 
tains of  Ischia.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  Vesuvius  and  Resina. 
The  train  skirts  the  coast  and  traverses  the  huge  lava-stream  of 
1794,   38  ft.   in  thickness  and  700  ft.  yds  in  breadth. 

7'/2  M.  Torre  del  Greco,  a  flourishing  town  with  23,600 
inhabitants,  stands  on  the  lava-stream  of  1631,  which  destroyed 
two-thirds  of  the  older  town.  The  lava-streams  of  1737  and  1794 
also  caused  great  damage.  The  earthquake  of  1856,  and  partic- 
ularly the  eruption  of  8th  Dec.  1861,  proved  still  more  destructive. 
On  this  last  occasion  eleven  small  openings  were  formed  immediately 
above  the  town,  whence  vast  showers  of  ashes  were  precipitated, 
while  the  shore  in  the  vicinity  was  upheaved  to  the  extent  of 
3  ft.,  causing  the  ruin  of  many  houses.  Although  the  entire  base 
of  Vesuvius  as  far  as  Torre  dell'  Annunziata  is  covered  with 
traces  of  similar  catastrophes,  yet  the  inhabitants  appear  never 
to  be  deterred  from  rebuilding  their  dwellings ,  a  circumstanoe 
which  has  given  rise  to  the  jesting  saying  of  the  Neapolitans, 
iNapoli  fa    i  peccati  e  la   Torre  li  paya.' 

The  line  intersects  Torre  del  Greco  (to  the  right  a  small  har- 
bour), and  then  skirts  the  sea.  To  the  left  the  monastery  of  Ca- 
maldoli della  Torre  is  visible,  standing  on  an  isolated  volcanic  peak 
at  the  base  of  Vesuvius,  and  protected  by  its  situation  against 
lava-streams. 

After  passing  another  stream  of  lava,   the  train  reaches  — 

1272  M.  Torre  dell'  Annunziata,  a  prosperous  town  with 
15,750  inhab.  and  a  small  harbour.  A  beautiful  glimpse  is  dis- 
closed here  of  the  bay  of  Castellamare  with  the  town,  commanded 
by  Monte  S.  Angelo,  the  summit  of  which  is  crowned  by  the  chapel 
of  S.  Miohele ;  beyond  it  Vico  Equense,  in  the  distance  Sorrento. 
Beyond  the  town  the  tTain  skirts  the  shore,  which  is  much  frequent- 


110      Routed  MOUNT  VESUVIUS. 

ed  by  fishermen.  The  line  to  Castellamare  then  diverges  to  the 
right. 

The  Pompeii  train  now  proceeds  inland ,  and  on  the  left  the 
partially  overgrown  heaps  of  ashes  thrown  up  by  the  excavations 
soon  become  visible. 

15  M.  Pompeii,  see  p.  i  IS. 

Continuation  of  the  line  to  Salerno,  see  R.  11. 


The  High  Road  from  Naples  to  Pompeii  is  also  still  much 
frequented,  and  is  recommended  as  a  route  at  least  as  far  as  Por- 
tici  and  Resina,  as  the  railway-stations  at  Naples  and  Portici  are 
inconveniently  situated.  (Carriages  take  50  min.  ,  see  pp.  25, 
107  ;  omnibus  very  slow,  I74-  V/2  hr.)  —  The  road  leaves  Naples 
near  the  Castello  del  Carmine,  skirts  the  Marinella,  and  crosses  the 
Sebeto  by  the  Ponte  della  Mnddalena ,  passing  the  barracks  of 
the  Granili  to  the  right.  It  then  leads  along  the  coast,  which, 
however ,  is  so  covered  with  villas  and  other  houses  that  the 
route  is  more  like  a  long ,  dusty  street  than  a  country  road. 
The  first  village  reached  is  S.  Giovanni  a  Teduccio ,  which 
is  adjoined  on  the  left  by  the  small  town  of  La  Barra. 
We  next  reach  Portici  and  Resina  (p.  107),  which  stretch  along 
Uie  road  for  a  distance  of  2  M.,  the  boundary  between  them 
being  immediately  beyond  the  royal  palace ,  through  the  court 
of  which  the  road  passes.  At  the  beginning  of  Resina  on  the 
left  is  the  office  for  the  Vesuvius  guides  (p.  111).  On  the  right, 
farther  on ,  is  the  entrance  to  the  excavations  of  Herculaneum 
I  p.  108),  beyond  which  the  road  to  Vesuvius  diverges  to  the 
left  (see  p.  116).  We  next  pass  the  Favorita  on  the  right 
(p.  109).  Even  beyond  this  point  the  road  presents  a  busy 
scene,  but  as  it  is  very  dusty  it  cannot  be  recommended  in  the 
hot  season. 

As  far  as  Torre  del  Oreco  (p.  109)  the  road  runs  between 
houses  and  garden-walls ,  but  farther  on  it  commands  an  un- 
impeded view.  Torre  delV  Annunziata,  see  p.  109.  The  drive 
from  Naples  to  Pompeii  takes  2  hrs.  (carr.  and  pair  20  fr.). 
Pompeii,   see  p.    118. 

8.     Mount  Vesuvius. 

Compare  Map,  p.  IOO. 

The  "Ascent  ok  Mount  Vesuvius  may  be  made  from  Resina  near  Por- 
tici, or  from  Pompeii.  The  excursion  takes  about  7  hrs.,  but  a  whole 
day  should  be  allowed,  in  order  to  leave  suflicient  margin  for  rest, 
refreshment,  and  the  journey  from  Naples  and  back.  After  the  ascent, 
if  time  permits,  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  Herculaneum  or  to  the  garden 
of  La  Favorita.  —  The  ascent  from  Pompeii  is  less  costly  than  that  from 
Resina,  and  the  traveller  is  less  exposed  to  annoyance,  but  the  ascent  is 
less  interesting,  somewhat  louder,  and  altogether  more  fatiguing.  The 
route  from  Kesina  passes  the  chief  lava  -  streams  of  the  last  eruption 
(April,    1872). 


MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  8.  Route.      1 1  I 

Disposition  of  Time.  As  the  lights  are  most  favourable  and  the  at- 
mosphere clearest  in  the  morning ,  the  traveller  should  leave  Naples  as 
early  as  possible,  unless  he  intends  remaining  on  the  mountain  till 
sunset,  an  hour  which  also  has  its  special  attractions.  A  single  traveller 
had  better  take  the  railway  to  Portici,  walk  thence  to  the  guides'  office 
at  Resina  ('|4  hr. ;  comp.  p.  107;  one-horse  carriage  to  this  point  from 
Naples  2  fr.),  obtain  a  horse  and  guide  there,  and  ride  to  the  foot  of  the 
cone  (2  hrs.).  The  traveller  is  not  recommended  to  walk  the  whole  way 
from  Resina  to  the  top,  as  used  formerly  often  to  be  done,  owing  to  the 
fatigue  of  the  last  part  of  the  ascent.  A  carriage  with  one  horse  may 
sometimes  be  hired  from  Portici  to  the  Observatory  for  10  fr.  and  a  gra- 
tuity. —  A  party  of  two  or  more  persons  will  find  it  preferable  to  drive 
from  Naples  to  the  Observatory  I  carriage  and  pair,  there  and  back, 
for  2-3  persons  20-25  fr. ,  with  three  horses  25-30  fr.  ;  the  driver  has  to 
provide  an  extra  horse  from  Resina  onwards  without  extra  charge). 
Guides  are  always  to  be  met  with  at  the  Observatory  (and  horses  also), 
but  as  they  charge  no  less  than  from  Resina,  it  is  better  to  engage  one 
at  the  office  in  passing.  (If  the  guide  mounts  on  the  box  of  the  carriage, 
6  fr. ;  otherwise  11  fr. ;  see  below.)  Tolerable  walkers  may  dispense  with 
a  horse  for  the  distance  between  the  Observatory  and  the  foot  of  the  cone 
(3|4-1  hr.).  The  steep  ascent  of  the  cone  itself,  which  can  only  be  per- 
formed on  foot,  is  extremely  fatiguing  owing  to  the  looseness  of  the 
ashes.  To  many  persons  the  assistance  of  being  drawn  by  a  strap  will 
not  be  unacceptable.  Ladies  had  better  engage  a  'portantina'  to  carry 
them  up.  The  charges  include  the  descent  also,  but  as  attempts  at  ex- 
tortion are  often  made,  the  descent  as  well  as  the  ascent  should  be 
distinctly  stipulated  for. 

About  3|4  hr.  should  be  allowed  for  the  halt  on  the  summit.  Wine 
(2  fr.  per  bottle),  eggs  (l|2  fr.  each) ,  and  bread  are  offered  for  sale  here, 
but  the  traveller  had  better  bring  some  refreshment  for  himself  (oranges 
or  other  fruit). 

The  descent  of  the  cone  is  accomplished  in  12-15  min. ;  to  the  Her- 
mitage 3lt  hr.  ;  thence  to  Resina  l'^-l1^  hr. ,  where  the  excavations  of 
Herculaneum  or  the  Favorita  may  be  visited  in  the  evening  (pp.  107,  109). 
From  Resina  to  the  Piazza  del  Municipio  in  Naples,  a  drive  of  3U-1  hr. 

Expenses.  The  cost  of  the  ascent  for  a  single  traveller  amounts  to 
about  20  fr.,  but  is  considerably  less  for  each  of  the  members  of  a  party. 
From  Resina.  On  7th  Aug.  1870  the  following  tariff,  which  may  be 
seen  at  the  Officina  delle  Guide  del  Vesuvio  (in  the  main  street  on  the 
left,  2|3  M.  from  the  railway-station ;  comp.  p.  107),  was  issued  by  the  Mu- 
nicipio of  Resina :  — 

For  a  mounted  guide  (comp.  p.  112) 11  fr. 

Horse  attendant  (facchino,  unnecessary  for  most  travellers)     .      3  fr. 

Horse  or  mule  (both  generally  good) 5  fr. 

Donkey  (rather  slower) 4  fr. 

'Portantina'  (chaise-a-porteurs)  with  8  bearers  from  Resina  to 

the  crater 60  fr. 

Portantina  from  the  Hermitage  to  the  crater 40  fr. 

(From  the  foot  of  the  cone  to  the  top  30  fr.  is  the  usual  charge.) 
'Aiuto'   (assistance  with  a  strap  in  ascending  the   cone,   more 

necessary  since  the  last  eruption) 3  fr. 

Holding  horse  during  the  ascent  of  the  cone 2  fr. 

Torches  (for  the  descent  after  sunset) 2  fr. 

(From  Pompeii:  —  Guide  5,  horse  5,  holding  horse  2,  portantina 

from  the  foot  of  the  cone  about  20  fr.) 
A  stout  stick ,   which  is  indispensable  for  walkers ,   mav   be  hired   at 
the  office  for  10  c. 

Payment  for  the  whole  of  the  above  items,  both  for  going  and  return- 
ing, is  made  at  the  end  of  the  excursion,  either  at  the  office,  or  to  the 
guide  himself.  In  every  case,  however,  an  additional  gratuity  is  expected : 
guide  l'|2-3  fr.  according  to  the  number  of  the  party  ;  horse-holder  a  few 
soldi ;  strap-assistant  '|a-l  fr.  ;  chair-bearers  2-3  fr. 

The    ascent    should     never     lie     made     without     a     guide,     although 


112      R,,ulc8.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS. 

mountaineers  will  iinrl  no  difficulty,  especially  when  the  volcano  is 
quiescent.  Strictly  speaking  the  charge  for  the  guide  is  6  fr. ,  the  ad- 
ditional 5  fr.  being  the  charge  for  mounting  him.  The  Municipio  of 
l.'esina  has  countenanced  this  extortion  by  altogether  omitting  from  the 
tariff  the  charge  for  an  unmounted  guide.  If  a  guide  to  accompany  the 
traveller  on  foot  is  required,  an  inexperienced  lad  (generally  quite  suffi- 
cient) will  probably  he  assigned  to  him.  Those  who  drive  and  take  the 
guide  on  the  box  from  Kesina  to  the  Observatory  of  course  pay  him  no 
more  than  6  fr.  and  his  gratuity.  Some  of  the  guides  are  fond  of  as- 
suming a  superior  and  patronising  air  towards  their  employers,  but  those 
who  are  guilty  of  such  impertinence  soon  come  to  their  senses  when 
treated  with  perfect  indifference. 

Numerous  attacks  are  of  course  made  on  the  traveller's  purse  en  routt. 
At  almost  every  cottage  on  the  way  the  genuine  'Lachrimee  Christr  are 
offered  for  sale,  and  the  traveller  will  often  be  amused  to  observe  the 
telegraphic  signals  which  pass  between  the  guides  and  the  innkeepers. 
The  wine  is  generally  good,  but  had  better  not  be  partaken  of  before  the 
ascent;  at  the  Hermitage  tavern  the  usual  charge  is  2  fr.  per  bottle,  but 
it  may  be  bought  of  the  peasants  for  1  fr.  (which  is  still  considerably 
above  the  market-price). 

Railway  to  Portici  ,  see  p.  106:  13-14  trains  daily  (fares  95,  65, 
40  c).  Guides  proffer  their  services  as  soon  as  we  arrive;  but  we  dis- 
regard their  representations,  follow  the  road  to  the  right,  turn  to  the  left 
after  7  min.,  and  in  6  min.  reach  the  Portici  and  Kesina  high  road,  on 
which  we  soon  come  to  the  guides1  office  (comp.  p.    LOT). 

High  Road  to  Resina,  see  p.  110.  Cabs,  see  pp.  25,  107.  Omnibus, 
see  p.  25. 

Mount  Vesuvius,  sometimes  called  Vesevus  by  ancient  poets 
( e.  </.  by  Lucretius  and  Virgil),  rises  in  isolated  majesty  from  the 
Campanian  plain,  near  the  sea.  The  height  varies,  according  to 
the  different  effects  of  the  eruptions ,  from  3900  to  4300  ft.  ; 
in  1845  the  height  was  3900  ft.,  and  in  1868  it  had  increased 
to  4255  ft.,  but  since  the  eruption  of  1872  it  has  somewhat  di- 
minished. The  N.  E.  side  of  the  mountain  is  named  Monte  Sommit, 
of  which  the  highest  peak  is  the  Punta  del  Nasone  (3642  ft.). 
A  deep  sickle-shaped  valley,  the  Atrio  del  Cavallo,  separates 
Somma  from  Vesuvius  proper,  which  consists  of  a  cone  of  ashes 
with  the  crater  in  the  centre,  the  'Forge  of  Vulcan'.  The  sum- 
mit is  also  liable  to  constant  change  after  eruptions,  having  some- 
times a  single  crater  with  an  opening  in  the  middle,  and  some- 
times two  or  three  craters  adjacent  to  each  other.  The  mountain 
rises  from  the  sea  at  an  angle  of  10°,  while  the  cone  itself  has 
a  gradient  of  30-35°.  Monte  Somma  descends  almost  perpen- 
dicularly to  the  Atrio  del  Cavallo ,  but  slopes  very  gradually 
down  to  the  plain  (3"). 

Vesuvius  in  Ancient  Times.  Vesuvius  forms  the  S.  E.  ex- 
tremity of  a  highly  volcanic  district,  of  which  Ischia,  Procida,  the 
Solfatara,  and  the  Monte  Nuovo  were  formerly  active  craters,  but 
have  been  extinct  for  the  last  three  centuries.  The  case 
was  reversed  in  ancient  times,  as  we  are  informed  by  the  geo- 
grapher Strabo  (v.  4),  who  lived  in  the  time  of  Augustus: 
•Mount  Vesuvius  is  covered  with  beautiful  meadows,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  summit.     The    latter  is  indeed  for  the  most  part 


MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  S.  Route.      113 

level,  but  quite  sterile;  for  it  has  an  appearance  like  ashe^, 
and  shows  rugged  rocks  of  sooty  consistency  and  colour ,  as  if 
they  had  been  consumed  by  lire.  One  might  conclude  from  this 
that  the  mountain  had  onee  burned,  and  possessed  fiery  abyss- 
es, and  had  become  extinguished  when  the  material  was  spent. 
And  just  from  this  cause  its  fertility  may  arise,  as  in  the  case  of 
Catania  the  eruption  of  ashes  from  .'Etna  renders  it  so  productive 
of  wine'.  About  fifty  years  later,  in  the  time  of  Nero,  A.  D.  63, 
the  volcanic  nature  of  the  mountain  manifested  itself  by  a  fearful 
earthquake ,  which  destroyed  a  great  part  of  the  prosperous  en- 
virons, and  seriously  damaged  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  This  was 
repeated  at  Naples  in  64,  and  again  at  intervals  till  the  reign 
of  Titus,  when,  on  24th  Aug.  79,  the  first  (recorded)  eruption 
took  place  with  appalling  fury ,  and  devastated  the  oountry  far 
and  wide ,  covering  it  with  showers  of  ashes  and  vast  streams 
of  lava.  On  that  occasion,  it  would  appear,  the  peak  now  call- 
ed Vesuvius  was  formed.  Previously  it  had  been  a  rounded 
crater;  the  S.  side,  where  Vesuvius  now  rises,  having  been  the 
lowest.  The  crater-like  form  of  M.  Somma  is  still  distinctly  re- 
cognisable, although  somewhat  concealed  by  the  more  recent  de- 
posits of  ashes.  It  was  on  that  eventful  day  that  Pompeii,  Her- 
culaneum ,  Stabiae ,  and  other  villages  of  this  smiling  district 
were  overwhelmed.  The  naturalist  Pliny,  then  in  command  of  a 
section  of  the  fleet  stationed  at  Misenum,  also  perished  on 
this  occasion.  He  had  ventured  too  near  the  scene  of  desolation, 
both  as  an  observer  and  for  the  purpose  of  rendering  aid  to 
the  distressed,  when  he  was  suffocated  near  Oastellamare  by 
the  ashes  and  exhalations.  His  nephew,  the  younger  Pliny,  in 
two  letters  (Ep.  vi.  16,  20)  to  his  friend  the  historian  Tacitus, 
gives  a  graphic  description  of  this  fearful  phenomenon.  He 
mentions  the  premonitory  earthquakes,  day  turned  into  night, 
the  extraordinary  agitation  of  the  sea,  the  dense  clouds  over- 
hanging land  and  sea,  and  riven  by  incessant  flashes  of  light- 
ning, the  emission  of  tire  and  ashes,  the  descent  of  streams  of 
lava,  and  the  universal  terror  of  men,  who  believed  the  end  of 
the  world  had  arrived.  A  similar  description  is  given  of  an  erup- 
tion in  the  reign  of  Alex.  Severus  ,  A.D.  222,  by  Dio  Cassius 
(lxvi.  23),  who  describes  two  awful  colossal  figures  which  hovered 
over  the  mountain.  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii  were  thus  lost 
to  the  world  for  seventeen  centuries.  The  eruptions  of  Vesuvius 
have  been  repeated  at  intervals  with  varying  violence  ,  down  to 
the  present  day.  The  next  took  place  in  203,  under  Septimius 
Severus,  and  another  in  472,  sending  its  showers  of  ashes  as  far 
as  Constantinople. 

Vesuvius  in  Modern  Times.     Down   to    the  year   1500    nine 
eruptions  are  recorded  .    and  from  that  date  to  the  present  time 
fifty.    The  mountain  has  been  known  to  be  quiescent  for  renturies 
Bakdekeb.    Italy  III.    btU  .Edition,  g 


114      Route*.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS. 

in  succession,  while  at  other  periods  its  activity  has  been  al- 
most uninterrupted,  e.g.  from  1717  to  1737.  From  1500  to 
1631  Vesuvius  was  quiescent,  while  in  1538  the  Monte  Nuovo 
was  upheaved  near  Pozzuoli,  and  ^Etua  was  labouring  without 
intermission.  During  that  period  Vesuvius  was  entirely  covered 
with  wood  and  bushes,  like  the  deer  park  of  Astroni  at  the 
present  day,  and  cattle  grazed  peacefully  within  the  crater.  After 
this  lull,  on  16th  Dec.  1631,  came  a  most  terrific  eruption,  the 
first  of  which  we  possess  detailed  accounts.  A  huge  cloud  of 
smoke  and  ashes  rising  in  a  conical  form ,  east  a  profound 
gloom  over  Naples  in  the  middle  of  the  day ,  and  extended 
with  incredible  rapidity  over  the  southern  portion  of  Italy ,  as 
far  as  Tarentum.  Heavy  stones  were  thrown  to  a  distance  of 
15  M.  (one  which  fell  at  the  village  of  Somma  being  25  tons 
in  weight),  while  the  earth  was  convulsed  by  a  violent  earth- 
quake ,  and  seven  streams  of  lava  poured  from  the  summit, 
overwhelming  Bosco,  Torre  dell'  Annunziata,  Torre  del  Greco, 
Resina,  and  Portici.  No  fewer  than  3000  persons  perished  on 
that  occasion.  The  following  year  an  eruption  of  JEtna.  also 
took  place,  although  that  mountain  is  usually  quiescent  when 
Vesuvius  is  in  an  active  state.  An  eruption  in  1707  was  of  a 
very  alarming  nature,  lasting  from  May  to  August,  and  covering 
Naples  with  dense  showers  of  ashes,  to  the  terror  of  the  cit- 
izens. The  eruptions  of  1737,  1760,  and  1767  emitted  consider- 
able quantities  of  lava  and  scoriae,  which  in  1767  descended  on 
Portici,  and  even  reached  Naples.  One  of  the  most  stupendous 
of  these  phenomena  took  place  in  Aug.  1779 ,  when  a  vast 
number  of  red-hot  stones  were  hurled  to  a  height  of  2000  ft., 
some  of  them  exceeding  100  lbs.  in  weight,  spreading  terror 
among  the  inhabitants  far  and  wide.  The  lava  eruption  of  1794 
was  even  more  fatal  in  its  effects ;  the  streams  precipitated 
themselves  into  the  sea  by  Torre  del  Greco,  heating  the  water 
for  a  considerable  distance ;  upwards  of  400  lives  were  lost, 
and  the  ashes  were  carried  as  far  as  Chieti  and  Taranto.  Erup- 
tions during  the  present  century  took  place  in  1804,  1805, 
1822,  Feb.  1850,  and  May  1855;  in  June  1858  the  upper 
crater  sank  about  195  ft.  below  its  former  elevation  ;  and,  on  8th 
Dec.  1861,  an  outbreak  remarkable  for  its  violence,  and  inter- 
esting from  the  fact  that  is  was  witnessed  by  Humboldt  and 
other  men  of  science,  devastated  Torre  del  Greco.  After  this 
the  mountain  remained  quiescent  until  1865.  In  November  of 
that  year  the  lava  began  to  overflow,  but  at  length  in  November, 
1868  ,  it  forced  a  passage  for  itself  through  a  fissure  on  the  side  of 
the  cone,  after  which  no  change  took  place  till  1871. 

Eruption  of  1872.  The  most  recent  period  of  activity  be- 
gan in  January  1871  ,  when  the  mountain  showed  renewed  sym- 
ptoms of  internal  disturbance  by  the  emission  of  a  stream  of  lava 


MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  H.  Route.      1J5 

through  a  fissure  on  the  N.E.  side.  This  was  followed  by  an- 
other on  the  W.  side  about  the  end  of  October,  and  early  in  1872 
these  phenomena  gradually  increased  in  violence,  until  at  length 
they  culminated  in  the  great  eruption  of  24th-30th  April  of  that 
year.  During  these  days  the  lava  burst  forth  on  every  side — on  the 
N.E.,  S.W.,  and  more  particularly  at  the  Atrio  del  Cavallo  (p.  112), 
from  which  a  huge  stream  issued  with  such  suddenness  on  26th 
April  as  to  overtake  and  destroy  20  persons  out  of  a  crowd  of 
spectators  who  were  watching  the  spectacle,  while  others  were 
injured  by  the  stones  thrown  from  the  summit.  The  torrent 
descended  to  Massu  and  S.  Sebastiano,  and  passed  between  these 
villages,  which  it  partially  destroyed ,  in  a  stream  upwards  of 
1000  yds.  wide  and  20  ft.  deep.  This  overflow  ran  to  a  distance 
of  3  M.  in  12  hours.  At  the  same  time,  amidst  terrific  thundering, 
the  crater  poured  forth  huge  volumes  of  smoke  mingled  with 
red-hot  stones  and  lava  to  a  height  of  4000  ft.,  whilst  clouds  of 
ashes,  rising  to  double  that  height,  were  carried  by  the  wind  as 
far  as  Cosenza,  a  distance  of  140  M.  The  lava  emitted  during  this 
eruption  covers  an  area  of  2  sq.  M.,  and  averages  13  ft.  in  depth. 
The  damage  was  estimated  at  upwards  of  3  million  fr.  A  visit 
to  S.  Sebastiano  is  admirably  calculated  to  convey  to  the  tra- 
veller an  idea  of  the  effects  of  this  stupendous  convulsion  of  nature. 
(One-horse  carr.  thither  from  Naples  4-5  fr.,  from  Portici  3  fr.  | 
In  1874-76  the  mountain  has  been  almost  entirely  quiescent. 

Volcanic  Phenomena.  Notwithstanding  the  long  series  of 
works  on  the  subject  which  have  appeared  since  1631,  the 
cause  of  these  phenomena  is  still  to  some  extent  a  matter  of 
mere  conjecture.  It  is  highly  probable  that  they  are  intimately 
connected  with  the  water  of  the  sea,  near  which  all  the  prin- 
cipal volcanoes  are  situated.  There  is  reason  to  believe  that  the 
enormous  clouds  of  steam  generated  during  eruptions  are  due  to 
some  temporary  communication  of  the  water  with  the  burning 
liquids  of  the  interior  of  the  earth,  and  that  the  premonitory 
earthquakes  are  occasioned  by  the  vapours  and  gases  as  they  expand 
and  endeavour  to  find  an  outlet.  The  red-hot  fluids  expelled  from 
the  volcano  by  means  of  these  vapours  are  called  lava.  When, 
however,  they  are  broken  by  the  vapours  into  fragments,  the 
larger  of  these  are  known  as  lapilli  (rapilli)  or  scoria?,  whilst  the 
minute  portions  form  volcanic  sand  or  ashes.  "When* freed  from  the 
pressure  of  the  lava,  the  vapours  rise  to  a  height  of  10,000  ft., 
resembling  a  pine  in  form ,  as  Pliny  has  aptly  described  it,  car- 
rying dense  masses  of  rapilli  and  ashes  along  with  them ;  they 
are  then  condensed  in  the  air,  and  in  descending  give  rise  to 
those  formidable  streams  of  mud  (lave  d'acqua^  which  proved  so 
destructive  to  Herculaneum.  Vesuvius  has  of  late  been  active  in 
the  manner  described,  although  to  a  very  limited  extent,  ejecting 
vapours  and  stones  with  a  roar  resembling  that  of  distant  artillery; 

8* 


116      Routes.  MOUNT  VESUVIUS. 

but  the  effects  of  this  action  have  been  confined  to  the  formation 
of  the  cone  in  the  crater.  More  serious  eruptions  are  accompanied 
by  loud  subterranean  noises,  earthquakes,  and  flashes  of  lightning 
and  peals  of  thunder,  owing  to  the  electricity  produced  by  the 
unwonted  pressure  of  the  air.  The  temperature  of  the  lava  as  it 
descends  occasionally  exceeds  2000°  Fahr.  The  volume  of  the 
streams,  as  well  as  their  velocity,  depends  on  a  variety  of  external 
circumstances.  The  surface  of  the  lava  ultimately  becomes  disinte- 
grated into  black  sand.  The  smoke  which  ascends  from  the 
crater  is  more  or  less  dark  in  colour,  according  to  the  quantity 
of  ashes  mingled  with  it.  The  appearance  of  fire  at  night  is  not 
flame,  but  the  reflection  of  the  molten  lava  in  the  interior  of 
the  crater  on  the  rising  clouds  of  vapour  and  ashes. 

Of  the  Minerals  ejected  by  the  volcano,  most  of  which  are 
found  in  the  older  lava  of  M.  Somma,  or  in  masses  of  rock 
thrown  up  during  eruptions,  about  40  species,  according  to  the 
investigations  of  Professor  Scacchi  of  Naples,  are  at  present 
known.  In  the  lava  stream  of  1855  the  remarkable  cotunnite, 
a  chloride  of  lead,  was  detected  in  great  abundance.  Most  of 
these  minerals  are  sold  by  the  guides  at  Resina  (e.  g.  Andrea 
Anastasio,  with  the  sobriquet  'Maccarone');  a  small  box  of  the 
commonest  may  be  purchased  for  l/-2~i  fr. 

The  **  Ascent  of  Vesuvius  is  unquestionably  an  excursion 
of  extreme  interest,  though  not  unattended  with  fatigue,  and 
it  should  not  be  undertaken  in  rainy  or  stormy  weather.  When 
the  mountain  is  covered  with  snow  in  winter  the  difficulty  of 
the  ascent  is  of  course  greater. 

From  Resina.  The  road  to  Vesuvius  diverges  to  the  left 
from  the  high  road  immediately  beyond  the  entrance  to  the 
excavations  of  Herculaneum  (comp.  p.  110;  riders  ascend  by  a 
side-lane  immediately  from  the  guides'  office).  Near  the  N.  end 
of  the  town  it  passes  a  small  piazza  with  the  church  of  8.  Maria 
a  Pugliano  on  the  right,  whence  it  ascends  the  slopes  of  Ve- 
suvius to  the  Observatory.  The  luxuriant  vineyards  here,  which 
are  interspersed  with  gardens  and  cottages,  presenting  a  picture 
of  teeming  fertility,  yield  the  famous  'Lachrimae  Christi'  wine, 
which  is  generally  strong  and  heavy,  and  never  of  a  very  re- 
fined quality.  Higher  up,  beyond  the  garden-walls,  the  beau- 
tiful view  is  'gradually  disclosed.  In  about  3/i  hr.  we  reach 
the  huge  dark  lava-stream  of  1872 ,  which  we  can  trace  down 
to  8.  Sebastiano  and  Massa  di  Somma  (p.  115),  and  which  the 
windings  of  the  road  cross  several  times.  In  40  min.  more  we 
reach  the  so-called  Hermitage ,  a  tavern  where  guides ,  horses, 
and  mules  are  to  be  found.  Carriages  wait  here  till  the  travellers 
return  from  the  summit  ( Lachrima;  Christi  2  fr.  ;  good  Vesuvius 
wine  at  1  fr.  per  bottle  may  be  obtained  at  a  peasant's  house 
a  little  lower  down,   where  there  is  a  seat  coinmandiny.  a  viewj. 


MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  8.  Route.      117 

Jminerliately  above  the  Hermitage,  on  tlie  same  shoulder  of 
the  hill  which  divides  the  lava-streams  descending  from  the 
crater  into  two  branches  ,  is  situated  the  Meteorological  Obser- 
vatory, 2218  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  1965  ft.  above 
Kesina.  It  contains,  in  addition  to  the  usual  instruments,  a 
'sismograph',  or  apparatus  for  recording  the  phenomena  of  earth- 
quakes. The  first  director  of  the  observatory  was  the  celebrated 
Melloni.  The  present  director  Palmieri  has  published  an  in- 
teresting account  of  the  eruption  of  1872.  A  slab  has  been 
placed  at  the  entrance  of  the  building  in  memory  of  the  tra- 
vellers who  perished  in  the  Atrio  del  Cavallo  in  1872  (p.  115; 
on  which  occasion  Sign.  Palmieri  remained  at  his  post  in  the 
Observatory).  Beyond  the  building  is  a  guard-house  of  Cara- 
binieri,   whose  duty  is  to  watch  over  the  public  safety. 

Beyond  the  Observatory  the  path  is  practicable  for  mules 
and  pedestrians  only.  For  some  distance  it  traverses  the  crest 
of  the  hill  ,  whence  the  lava  of  1872  is  seen  on  the  right  and 
left,  and  it  then  crosses  the  stream  to  the  right.  In  50-60  min. 
we  reach  the  foot  of  the  cone  (720  ft.  above  the  Observatory"), 
where  in  fine  weather  the  traveller  is  immediately  beset  by  an 
eager  troop  of  portantina  bearers,  horse-holders,  and  men  with 
straps,  etc.  (tariff,  see  p.  111).  Refreshments  are  also  offered 
here  at  nearly  as  high  prices  as  on  the  summit. 

The  ascent  of  the  precipitous  cone  ,  consisting  of  slag  and 
loose  ashes,  which  is  1500  ft.  higher,  and  rises  at  an  angle  of 
30-35°,  has  been  extremely  fatiguing  since  the  eruption  of  1872. 
If  the  traveller  has  not  accepted  the  'aiuto'  of  the  strap,  he  is 
followed  for  a  considerable  way  up  by  a  number  of  would-be 
assistants  .  who  only  return  when  satisfied  that  their  services 
are  not  required.  Halfway  up  there  is  a  resting-place.  This  part 
of  the  ascent  takes  l-l'/i  hr.  The  Crater,  which  changes  its 
form  after  every  great  eruption,  is  at  present  divided  into  two 
basins  and  presents  a  most  striking  appearance. 

Under  ordinary  circumstances  there  is  no  danger  unless  one  approach- 
es the  shelving  hrink  incautiously,  or  exposes  oneself  to  the  fumes  of  sul- 
phur and  showers  of  stones.  Thus  in  1854  a  young  German,  imprudently 
appronching  the  aperture  of  the  active  cone,  lost  his  footing,  fell  in.  and 
was  killed  by  the  fall.  As  the  mountain  was  quiescent  at  the  time,  his 
liody  was  recovered.  —  The  guides  are  in  the  habit  of  making  impres- 
sions on  the  hot  lava  with  copper  coins,  roasting  eggs,  and  inviting  the 
traveller  to  make  similar  experiments.  The  only  risk  incurred  in  doing 
so  is  that  of  damaging  the  soles  of  one's  boots. 

From  Pompeii  the  ascent  takes  about  the  same  time  as  from 
Iiesina,  but  there  is  no  carriage-road.  The  route  leads  by 
O/2  nr0  B°sc0  tre  Case,  and  ascends  thence  through  vineyards. 
The  view  gradually  becomes  freer.  AVe  first  reach  the  lavas  of  1822. 
and  then,  where  the  ascent  becomes  steeper,  those  of  1848  and 
1868.     Riders  usually  reach  the  base  of  the  last  cone  in   l'/ohr. 

The  ascent  is  most  interesting  when  the  mountain  'labours', 
or  ejects  scoria1  and  ashes,   a  condition  indicated  by  smoke  during 


1  1  8      Route  9.  POMPEII. 

the  day  and  a  reflection  of  fire  at  night,  which  may  he  ohserved 
from  Naples.  Kven  if  its  state  is  that  of  perfect  repose,  which  is 
not  often  the  case,  the  fatigue  of  the  ascent  is  repaid  hy  the  im- 
posing appearance  of  the  crater  and  the  magnificent  *Panorama 
commanded  by  the  summit,  extending  as  far  as  the  Ponza  Islands 
and   Mto.  Circello,   and  most  heautiful  about  sunrise  or  sunset. 

The  Monte  Sommn  (3642  ft.)  also  affords  a  fine  view,  and 
is  interesting  to  geologists  and  botanists.  The  ascent  may  be 
made  from  Massa  or  from   Somma. 

9.  Pompeii. 

Railway  to  Pompeii,  sec  R.  7.  —  (The  distance  to  Pompeii  from 
Torre  Annun/.iata,  the  station  before  it,  is  only  l3/j  31.,  so  that  the  tra- 
veller may  find  it  convenient  to  take  one  of  the  Castellamare  trains  to  that 
station;  but  the  high  road  thence  to  Pompeii  is  apt  to  be  very  dusty.)  — 
From  the  Pompeii  Station  a  walk  of  about  200  paces  in  a  straight  direction 
brings  us  to  the  Hotel  Diomede  (p.  119) ,  situated  close  to  the  Principal 
Entrance.  We  ascend  a  flight  of  steps  ,  immediately  on  the  right  of  the 
hotel ,  to  the  ticket-office.  We  are  then  provided  with  a  guide  at  the 
turn-style,  and  soon  reach  the  Porta  Marina,  where  our  description  begins 
(see  p.    124). 

High  lioAD  to  Pompeii  (see  p.  110),  very  dusty  in  summer,  like  all 
the  roads  near  Naples.  Those  who  drive  may  alight  at  the  Street  of 
Tombs  (p.  131;  see  Plan,  upper  corner  on  the  left),  and  order  the  carriage 
to  meet  them  at  the  Amphitheatre  (p.  142;  Plan,  lower  corner  on  the 
right). 

Duration  of  Stay.  The  time  which  the  traveller  devotes  to  the 
ruins  must  depend  on  his  own  inclination.  A  superficial  inspection  may 
be  accomplished  in  3  hrs. ;  but  in  order  tit  summon  up  from  these  mutilated 
walls  a  tolerably  accurate  picture  of  ancient  life  ,  frequent  and  prolonged 
visits  and  patient  observation  are  indispensable.  The  enthusiasm  called 
forth  by  the  discovery  of  Pompeii  and  the  fascination  attaching  to  the 
name  are  calculated  to  raise  the  expectations  of  the  non-archseologist  to  too 
high  a  pitch.  The  remains  are  simply  the  bare  ruins  of  a  town  destroyed 
hy  fire,  which  have  been  extricated  from  the  rubbish  accumulated  during 
seventeen  centuries.     Comp.  p.  120. 

Admission  on  Sundays  gratis,  on  other  days  2  fr.  (If  the  ruins  be 
quitted  and  re-entered,  the  entrance-money  is  exacted  a  second  time; 
tickets  must  be  shown  at  the  Amphitheatre  and  elsewhere.)  At  the  en- 
trance visitors  are  provided  with  a  guide  (except  on  Sundays,  when  one 
cannot  even  be  had  by  payment  of  a  fee),  who  is  bound  to  accompany 
them  and  pilot  them  through  the  ruins  during  any  number  of  hours  be- 
tween sunrise  and  sunset.  These  guides  are  32  in  number,  and  each  is 
provided  with  a  badge  (numbered  according  to  the  seniority  of  the 
wearers,  No.  1  being  the  oldest).  One  of  those  who  speak  French 
or  a  little  English  will  be  assigned  to  the  traveller  on  application.  They 
are  strictly  forbidden  to  accept  any  gratuity,  but  the  offer  of  a  cigar  or 
other  refreshment  will  ensure  their  civility.  The  guide-books,  drawings, 
and  photographs  which  they  oiler  for  sale  are  generally  of  an  inferior  de- 
scription and  should  at  once  be  declined.  Complaints  made  to  the  in- 
spectors (zopraslaitti),  or  better  still  to  the  director  Rugyicro,  are  sure  to 
receive  attention.  The  discipline  and  order  maintained  by  the  latter  are 
deserving  of  the  highest  commendation.  Permission  to  draw,  take  mea- 
surements, etc.,  is  obtained  at  the  Scgreteria  of  the  Museum  at  Naples 
(comp.  p.  G2),  where  the  applicant  must  show  his  passport.  Artists  or 
students  who  desire  to  make  prolonged  studies  may,  on  application  at  the 
office  and  production  of  their  passports,  obtain  a  free  ticket  of  admission 
available  for  a  fortnight,  which  they  are  most  liberally  permitted  to  renew 


36 .  Casa  di  Gadio  Totibio  II  fii* 

37 .  fa-irt.  (ft  i\oua  t):.i=^ 
:iS .  Casa  dd  Pacta  tragica  i  ji- 
39-To-me  pubb&che  \tinM 


Porta  Ercola**c 


\   ViIIm  di  JHomede 
2  .Sepolari  deJla  FamUfUa      \ 
ArrU  1 

3 .  Sepolcro  di  CaoLabeonc-     \ 
^.TncJuaa  funehre  %rch*Jw£t 

5 .  Sepolcro  diSeroleicuTydte    ^~avou,if 
6 . SepoJcro  di  CaJvensw  \,;. 

7 .  Sepolcro  cbLLudo  LibeMa 

8 .  Sepolcro  deJla, Tortau  oHmarmo 

9 .  Sepolcro  rotunda 

10.  Sepolcro  di-  Vmbrido  Scauro 

11.  Sepolcro  di  SerrUiau 

12.  Mb ergo  di  campaxpra 
lS.VBla,  di  Cicerone  (&ia,scavzital 
lb. Casa  deMe  cohmne  di  nmsatco 
Ut.SedRe  pubblico 
16.  Sepolcro  delle  gtirlande 
Xl.Bottcga  dejlo  Sadtore 
IS.  Sepolcro  di  Terenzie 
19.  Sepolcro  m,  costruzionc- 
2i). Sepolcro  di  Xamia 
'IX. Sepolcro  di  Tew 
22.  Sepolcro  di  Cermio 
IXTermopoUo 
24- JBottega  di- Albino 
IS.Casa,  deTLe  TestaU 
26.  Casa  del  Qarurgo 
27. Doqana 
'IH.Casa,  a  tre  picrm 
29  ..Bottcfja  di  $apone> 
30.  Casa,  deJlc  Daruudrici- 
'iX.i'aniana 
32.jfiwiw  yntbbUco 
'.i'i.Casa  di  SaUustia 
Mr.forno  e  Molhri 
yi.Casa  deU'AccadpTiaa 

di  nxusica 


X 


Gi-ograpK.  ■■',.■.!■.':-   - 


ifat&UiitXas&dt&Lfontana. piccolo,  W.CasadiCastoTee Pollute 
^■^^h»tOuadiJdane  il. Casa  del  LabiruUv 

tt.Mtal, Qua,  dCJpoUdne  kS.Casa  deW  Aurora 

**■!«!*.&«,  M  Meleagro  W  Tempio  dell,,  Fortunn 

WMniu     Qua,  del  Centawo  'hb.Casa  del  Fauna 


Porta  <1 1  Capua 


51 .  Casa  deUa  Far  eta  nera 

52 .  Casa  del  capitelli  figurati, 

53 .  Casa,  del  Cr  an  Hue  a 
5\.Casu   di  Ananna- 

SS.Casa  de-flu  caccia, 
56. Casa  <h  Marco Lusretw 
57. Faro  chr&e 
58. Pantheon  o  Tempio 

di  Augusta 
59. Sola-  del  Senato 


60 .  Tempio  di  Glare- 

61.  Tempio  di  Werairto 
62  .Edxfixio  di Eiunachza 
63.  Tempio  dl  Tenere, 
tii-.Basilica 

65. Casa  di  Champimet, 
SC.Tribimali 

67.  Casa  del  Cianale 

68 .  Vita  dei  dodiri-  Dei 

69.  Terms.  Stabiane 

70.  Casa,  di  Olconio 
7t.Casa,di  Sirica 
72. Casa,  di  CdrneUo  Rufo 
73.  Tempio  d Jside 
7b.  Curia   Isiaca 
7  5. Faro  trianqolare 


76.  Tempio  Greco 
n.Tecdro  scoperta 

78.     ■         caperta 

TB.Tempzo  di  Esrulapio 

HO.Quorrtiere  de'Soldati 

K\.BiJrrda1e 

82 .  Casa  dev  marmt  can, 

poixo  soroio 
S^.Lupanare 

Hi. Casa, del  balcone  pensile 
65 . Casa,  dell'  Orso 

86 .  Farmacia,  ossia  Tadariw 
67  .Casa,  con,  giardino 
8  8.  Casa  di  Mar  (e  e  Tenere 
HQ.Casa  del  Citaristw 
90.Casa.de' Diadumem. 
QX.Casa  diSalbo 
BZ.Atrio  faxestrato 
93 .  Casa  del  ConciapeUe 
94-.Fontana,deL  GaXLo 


IT*  gin*  T  *    D«b«,  Leipzig. 


POMPEII.  .9.  Route.      119 

as  often  as   they  desire.     Permission   to   visit   tlie  ruins   by   moonlight   is 
only  accorded  to  persons  specially  introduced  to  the  director. 

Before  visiting  Pompeii  the  traveller  should  acquire  some  previous 
acquaintance  with  the  place  from  books  and  plans.  +  The  more  familiar 
the  objects  are  to  him,  the  greater  will  be  his  enjoyment.  Implicit  confi- 
dence cannot  be  placed  in  the  guides  for  anything  beyond  mere  technical 
explanations.  Those  who  visit  the  ruins  once  only  should  avoid  occupying 
much  of  their  time  with  the  minutise,  as  the  impression  produced  by  the 
whole  is  thereby  sacrificed,  or  at  least  diminished.  On  account  of  the  phy- 
sically and  mentally  fatiguing  nature  of  the  expedition,  the  stay  should  not 
be  extended  much  beyond  3  hrs.  In  summer  the  streets  of  Pompeii  are 
often  insufferably  hot;  the  evening  is  therefore  the  most  enjoyable  time  for 
the  visit,  when  the  lights  and  shades  on  the  surrounding  mountains  and  the 
illumination  of  the  ruins  by  the  declining  sun  invest  the  place  with  magic 
fascination.  The  traveller  "should,  if  possible,  contrive  to  visit  it  at  least 
twice,  once  with  and  once  (on  a  .Sunday)  without  a  guide. 

Hotels.  At  the  entrance  to  Pompeii ,  opposite  the  railway-station, 
Hotel  Diomeue  (tolerable,  colazione  'A'/i,  pranzo  4  fr.,  and  25  c.  for  atten- 
dance). About  7  min.  walk  farther,  on  the  right,  opposite  the  Porta  di 
Wtabia,  Hotel  di  R.affaele  Cristiako,  a  very  unpretending  inn  (pension 
4  fr.) ;  adjoining  it,  Hotel  des  Etkangees,  kept  by  Prosper/,  the  landlord 
of  the  Diomede,  good  rooms,  pension  6  fr. ;  a  little  farther  on  ,  'Hotel 
i>u  Soleil,  B.  2,  I).  3,  pension  4'|2  fr.,  chiefly  frequented  by  artists. 

Pompeii  was  once  a  prosperous  provincial  town  ,  with  a  po- 
pulation of  20-30,000  souls.  The  original  Oscan  inhabitants  had 
at  the  close  of  the  republic  become  completely  Romanised,  and 
after  the  earthquake  of  A.D.  63  the  town  was  re -erected  in 
the  new  Roman  style  composed  of  Greek  and  Italian  elements. 
Pompeii,  therefore,  represents  one  definite  epoch  of  antiquity 
only ,  but  it  is  the  most  important  and  almost  the  only  source 
of  our  acquaintance  with  ancient  domestic  life.  The  investigation 
of  the  various  phases  of  this  life  ,  even  in  its  minuter  details; 
forms  a  pursuit  of  inexhaustible  interest. 

Pompeii  is  mentioned  in  history  for  the  first  time  in  B.C.  310;  but 
its  monuments,  such  as  the  wall  "of  the  town  and  the  so-called  Greek 
Temple,  clearly  prove  it  to  he  of  much  greater  antiquity.  Founded  by  the 
Oscans,  it  soon  became  imbued  with  the  elements  of  Greek  civilisation,  like 
the  other  towns  of  this  extensive  tribe.  Being  situated  near  the  sea  on 
an  ancient  volcanic  eminence,  it  carried  on  extensive  commerce  with  the 
inland  Campanian  towns  by  means  of  the  navigable  river  Sarnus,  and 
enjoyed  an  uninterrupted,  though  not  brilliant  share  of  prosperity.  (The 
sea  and  river  were  separated  from  the  town  by  subsequent  convulsions  of 
nature.)  After  the  Samnite  wars,  in  which  Pompeii  had  also  participated, 
the  town  became  subject  to  Rome.  It  united  with  the  other  Italians  in 
the  Social  War.  The  rebels  were  defeated  in  the  vicinity  of  Pompeii  by 
Sulla,  who  attacked  the  town  itself,  but  unsuccessfully.  After  the  termi- 
nation of  the  war ,  however ,  B.C.  82,  a  colony  of  Roman  soldiers  was  sent 
thither,  and  the  inhabitants  were  compelled  to  cede  to  it  one-third  of  their 
arable  land.  In  course  of  time  Pompeii  became  thoroughly  Romanised, 
and  was  a  favourite  retreat  of  Romans  of  the  wealthier  classes  ,  who  (e.  tj. 
Cicero)  purchased  estates  in  the  vicinity.  It  was  also  favoured  by  the  em- 
perors. Tacitus  records  a  serious  conflict  which  took  place  in  the  amphi- 
theatre, A.  D.  59,  between  the  Pompeians  and  the  neighbouring  Nucerines, 
in  consequence  of  which  the  former  were  prohibited  from  performing 
theatrical  pieces  for  a  period  of  ten  years.  A  few  years  later,  A.D.  63,  a 
fearful  earthquake    occurred,   evidencing   the   re-awakened   activity  of  Ve- 

T  A  work  recommended  to  the  traveller's  notice  is  Professor  OverbecVs 
Pompeii,  which  contains  a  plan,  26  coloured  views,  and  315  woodcuts 
(3rd  ed.   Leipzig,  1875:  20  marks:    to  be  had  at  Dctken's  at  Xaples). 


120      Route  U.  POMPEII.  History. 

suvius,  which  had  been  quiescent  for  centuries.  A  great  part  of  Pompeii, 
its  temples,  colonnades,  theatres,  and  private  dwellings  were  destroyed  on 
that  occasion.  This  disaster  afforded  the  inhabitants  an  opportunity  of 
re-erecting  their  town  in  a  style  more  conformable  to  the  improved 
architecture  of  imperial  Rome ,  and  it  accounts  for  the  comparatively 
modern  and  often  untinished  character  of  the  buildings.  The  new  town 
had  not  long  been  completed,  although  it  had  been  restored  in  a  re- 
markably short  period  with  the  aid  afforded  by  private  liberality,  when 
it  was  overtaken  by  the  final  catastrophe  of  24th  Aug.  79.  The  first 
premonitory  symptom  was  a  dense  shower  of  ashes,  a  stratum  of  which 
covered  the  town  to  a  depth  of  about  3  ft. ,  allowing  the  inhabitants 
time  to  escape.  Many  of  them,  however,  returned,  some  doubtless  to  rescue 
their  valuables,  others  paralysed  with  fear  and  uncertain  what  course  to 
pursue.  In  the  years  1861-72  were  found  eighty -seven  human  skeletons, 
and  those  of  three  dogs  and  seven  horses.  The  whole  number  of  those 
who  perished  is  estimated  at  2000.  The  ashes  were  followed  by  a  shower  of 
red  hot  rapilli,  or  fragments  of  pumice-stone  of  all  sizes,  which  covered  the 
town  to  a  depth  of  7-8  ft. ,  and  was  succeeded  by  fresh  showers  of  ashes 
and  again  by  rapilli.  The  present  superincumbent  mass  is  about  20  ft.  in 
thickness.  Part  of  this  "was  formed  by  subsequent  eruptions,  but  the  town 
had  already  been  completely  buried  by  the  original  catastrophe,  and  was 
entirely  lost  to  view,  though  its  name  was  long  preserved  by  a  small 
village  which  sprang  up  near  the  site.  Extensive  excavations,  however, 
had  been  made  in  ancient  times.  Immediately  after  the  calamity  the  sur- 
vivors doubtless  recovered  as  many  valuables  from  their  buried  homes  as 
they  could;  and  in  subsequent  centuries  the  ruins  were  repeatedly  ran- 
sacked for  the  marbles  and  precious  stones  used  in  the  embellishment  of 
the  temples  and  other  buildings.  We  therefore  now  find  the  town  in  the 
condition  in  which  it  was  consigned  to  oblivion  some  fifteen  centuries 
ago  as  no  longer  containing  anything  of  value.  During  the  middle  ages 
Pompeii  was  entirely  unknown.  In  1592  the  architect  Fontana  constructed 
a  subterranean  water-conduit  in  order  to  supply  Torre  dell1  Annunziata 
from  the  Sarno,  actually  intersecting  the  ruins,  and  to  this  day  in  use;  yet 
no  farther  investigations  were  then  attempted.  In  1748  the  discovery  of 
some,  statues  and  bronze  utensils  by  a  peasant  attracted  the  attention  of 
Charles  III.,  who  caused  excavations  to  be  made.  The  amphitheatre,  the- 
atre, and  other  parts  were  then  disinterred.  The  enthusiasm  caused  by  the 
discovery  has  been  the  frequent  theme  of  poetical  and  other  compositions 
by  Uulwer,  Schiller,  and  other  celebrated   authors: 

What  tconder  this?  —  we  ask  the  lymph-id  well, 
O  Earth!  of  thee  —  and  from  thy  solemn,  womb 
What  yield.' st  thou  ?  —  Is  there  life  in  the  abyss  — 
Doth  a  new  race  beneath  the  lava  dwell? 
Returns  the  Past,  awakening  from  the  tomb? 


The  earthy  with  faithful  watch,  has  hoarded  all! 
Under  the  Bourbons  the  excavations  were  continued  in  a  very  unsatis- 
factory manner.  Statues  and  valuables  alone  were  extricated,  whilst  the 
ruins  wew  either  suffered  to  fall  to  decay  or  covered  up  again.  To  the 
reign  of  ilurat,  however,  we  are  indebted  for  the  excavation  of  the  Forum, 
the  town-walls,  the  Street  of  Tombs,  and  many  private  houses.  The  political 
changes  of  I860  have  likewise  exercised  a  beneficial  effect.  Under  the  able 
superintendence  of  M.  Fiorelli,  instead  of  the  former  predatory  operations, 
a  regular  plan  has  been  adopted,  according  to  which  the  ruins  are  systema- 
tically explored  and  carefully  preserved,  and  highly  satisfactory  results  thus 
obtained.  The  movable  objects  found  ,  as  well  as  the  more  important 
frescoes,  have  been  removed  to  the  Museum  at  Naples, —  a  very  desirable 
course,  as  is  obvious  from  the  injury  caused  by  exposure  to  those  left 
behind!  At  Pompeii  itself  a  museum  and  library  have  been  instituted,  a 
dwelling-house  erected  for  students  supported  by  government,  and  a  railway 
constructed  for  the  removal  of  the  debris.  The  workmen  employed  in  the 
excavations    average    eighty  in  number,   but  several    hundred    are  at  times 


Topograph;/.  POMPEII.  i).  Route.       121 

engaged.  If  the  works  continue  to  progress  at.  the  same  rate  as  at  present, 
the  complete  excavation  of  the  town,  according  to  Fiorellis  calculations, 
will  occupy  seventy  years  more,  and  will  cost  about  5  million  francs.  A 
sum  of  30-40,000  fr.  is  realised  yearly  from  the  money  paid  Tiy  visitors  for 
admission. 

Before  beginning  out  walk,  we  may  make  a  few  remarks  on  the 
plan  and  architecture  of  the  town. 

Town  Walls.  The  town  is  built  in  the  form  of  an  irregular 
ellipse,  extending  from  E.  to  W.  The  circumference  of  its  walls 
amounts  to  '2cS43  yds.  There  are  eight  gates,  to  which  the 
following  names  have  been  given:  Porta  di  Krcolano,  delta 
Marina,  di  Stabia,  di  Nocera,  del  Sarno,  di  Nola,  di  Capoa,  and 
del  Vesuvio.  In  consequence  of  the  prolonged  peace,  however,  the 
walls  had  entirely  lost  their  importance.  Towards  the  sea  they 
had  been  demolished,  and  outside  the  Gate  of  Herculaneum  a 
considerable  suburb  had  sprung  up,  called  Pagus  Augustus  Felix, 
after   the  settlement  established  by  Augustus. 

Plan  of  the  Town.  The  excavated  portion  (about  275,000 
sq.  yds.)  embraces  about  one-third  only  of  the  town,  but  prob- 
ably the  most  important  part,  including  the  Forum  with  the  con- 
tiguous temples  and  public  buildings ,  two  theatres  with  large 
colonnades,  the  amphitheatre,  and  a  considerable  number  of  private 
dwellings  of  more  or  less  ornate  character.  The  principal  streets 
are:  1.  The  Consular  Street,  or  Via  Domitiana,  which,  prolonged 
by  the  Strada  de'  Sepolcri ,  or  Street  of  Tombs  ,  leads  to  the  Porta 
di  Ercolano,  and  thence  in  several  ramifications  to  the  Forum  ; 
'2.  The  Street  of  Mercury  (named  Street  of  the  Forum  as  far  as  the 
Temple  of  Fortuna).  from  the  Forum  to  the  N.  extremity  of  the 
town ;  3.  The  street  leading  from  the  sea,  past  the  Thermal  and  the 
Temple  of  Fortuna,  to  the  Porta  di  Nola  (called  successively  the 
Street  of  the  Thermae,  Fortuna,  and  Nola);  4.  Strada  deW  Ab- 
bondanm,  leading  apparently  from  the  Forum  to  the  Porta  del 
Sarno ;  5.  Strada  Stabiana,  from  the  Porta  di  Stabia  to  the  Porta 
del  Vesuvio.  The  entrances  to  the  houses  have  recently  been 
numbered,  and  the  different  quarters  (regio),  and  each  block  of 
houses  bounded  by  four  streets  (insula),  named  in  a  somewhat 
arbitrary  manner. 

The  streets,  bordered  by  pavement,  are  straight  and  narrow, 
not  above  '24  ft.  in  breadth,  the  narrower  lanes  14  ft.  only.  They 
are  admirably  paved  with  large  polygonal  blocks  of  lava.  At  in- 
tervals, especially  at  the  corners,  are  placed  high  stepping-stones, 
leading  from  one  side  of  the  pavement  to  the  other,  intended  for 
the  convenience  of  foot-passengers  in  rainy  weather.  The  waggons 
have  left  deep  ruts  in  the  causeways,  which  do  not  exceed  4!/o  ft. 
in  width;  and  the  horses-'  hoofs  have  made  impressions  on  the 
stepping-stones  over  which  they  were  occasionally  obliged  to  pass. 
At  the  corners  of  the  streets  are  public  fountains,  decorated  with 
the  head  of  a  god.   a  mask,   or  similar  ornament, 


122      Route  9.  POMPEII.  Architecture 

In  the  streets  are  frequently  seen  notices  painted  in  red  let- 
ters, referring  generally  to  the  election  of  the  municipal  authori- 
ties, and  recommending  some  particular  individual  as  sedile  or 
duumvir.  Trade-signs,  like  those  of  the  present  day,  are  very 
rare.  On  the  other  hand  an  occasional  'phallus'  is  seen,  for  the 
purpose  of  averting  the  evil  eye ;  and  one  or  two  large  snakes, 
the  emblems  of  the  Lares,  the  gods  of  the  hearth  and  of  cross- 
ways,   are  very  common. 

Construction.  The  houses  are  slightly  built  of  concrete 
(small  stones  consolidated  with  cement)  or  brick,  and  sometimes, 
particularly  the  corner  pillars,  of  blocks  of  tuffstone.  The  hasty 
and  patched  character  of  the  construction  is  accounted  for  by  the 
earthquake  of  63.  The  numerous  well-preserved  staircases  prove 
that  the  houses  must  uniformly  have  possessed  a  second  and  per- 
haps also  a  third  story.  These  upper  portions,  consisting  chiefly 
of  wood,  have,  with  a  single  exception  (p.  140),  been  destroyed 
by  the  red-hot  scorise  of  the  eruption. 

Shops.  In  traversing  the  streets  of  Pompeii,  we  soon  ob- 
serve a  difference  between  the  various  houses,  which  were  shops 
(tabernae)  or  dwelling-houses  according  as  their  rooms  are  turned  to 
or  from  the  street.  The  former  belonged  to  the  large  dwelling-houses, 
and  were  let  to  merchants  and  shopkeepers,  in  the  same  way  as  the 
ground-floors  of  the  palazzi  in  Naples  are  occupied  by  shops  at 
the  present  day.  These  shops  were  generally  in  no  way  connected 
with  the  back  part  of  the  house,  and  presented  their  whole  fron- 
tage to  the  street,  from  which  they  could  be  separated  by  large 
wooden  doors.  Many  of  the  shop-tables,  covered  with  marble, 
and  once  fitted  up  with  large  earthen  vessels  for  the  sale  of 
wine,  oil,  etc.,  are  still  preserved.  At  the  back  of  the  shop 
there  was  occasionally  a  second  room,  probably  occupied  by  the 
shopkeeper,  who  in  other  cases  must  have  lived  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  house,  or  in  a  different  part  of  the  town.  The  nu- 
merousness  of  these  shops  affords  proof  of  the  importance  of  the 
retail  traffic  at  Pompeii.  Where  the  street  was  not  thus  enli- 
vened ,  it  was  flanked  by  bare  walls ,  adorned  here  and  there 
with  a  painting.  The  absence  of  glass  forms  one  of  the  chief 
differences  between  an  ancient  and  a  modern  dwelling.  The 
ancients  therefore  concentrated  their  domestic  life  in  the  interior 
of  their  houses,  which  presented  to  the  street  a  blank  wall  with 
as  few  openings  as  possible ,  and  these  covered  with  an  iron 
(.■rating.  A  distinct  idea  of  this  mode  of  building,  so  different 
from  that  of  the  present  day ,  and  without  parallel  except  in 
some  Oriental  countries ,  is  best  obtained  in  the  more  recently 
excavated  and  better  preserved  streets  between  the  Forum  and 
the  Stabian   Street,    and  to  the  E.   of  the  latter. 

I'i.an  of  the  Houses.  The  dwelling-houses  of  Pompeii  vary 
greatly   in  size,  ami  have  obviously  been  very  differently  fitted  up. 


of  the  Town. 


POMPEII. 


9.  Route. 


123 


in  accordance  with  the  nature  of  the  situation,  or  the  means  and 
taste  of  their  owners.  Their  chief  peculiarity  is  the  internal  court, 
which  provided  the  surrounding  chambers  with  light,  and  was  the 
medium  of  communication  between  them.  Most  of  the  Pompei- 
an  houses  of  the  wealthy  middle  class  are  entered  from  the 
street  by  a  narrow  passage  (vestibulum)  leading  to  the  court  (atri- 
um), which  is  surrounded  by  a  covered  passage,  with  the  implu- 
vium,  or  reservoir  for  rain-water,  in  the  centre.  The  roof  sloped 
inwards  and  had  an  opening   in    the  centre  (compluvium)  which 


-^mmmwrnmommzpi 


m^mmmm 


House  of  Pansa  (p.  130). 

afforded  light  and  air  to  the  court  and  the  adjoining  rooms. 
Beyond  the  atrium  is  a  large  apartment  opening  into  it ,  called 
the  tablinum.  This  front  portion  of  the  house  was  devoted  to 
its  intercourse  with  the  external  world;  and  it  was  here  that 
the  patron  received  his  clients  and  transacted  business.  The  rest 
of  the  house  was  destined  solely  for  the  use  of  the  family.  Its 
centre  also  consisted  of  an  open  court,  enclosed  by  columns,  and 
thence  termed  the  peristylium,  the  middle  of  which  was  laid 
out  as  a  garden.  Sometimes  beyond  the  peristyle  lay  a  private 
garden  (xystus),  surrounded  by  columns.  At  the  back  of  the 
peristyle  were  sometimes  several  business  rooms ,  called  aci. 
Around  these  principal  apartments ,  in  which  the  magnificence 
of  the  house  is  concentrated,  are  situated  the  sleeping  and  eat- 
ing-rooms, slaves'  rooms,  kitchen,  cellar,  etc.  The  upper  floor 
was  destined  principally  for  the  slaves.  Most  of  the  apartments 
are  very  small,  but  the  family  worked  and  spent  most  of  their 
time  in  the  light  and  airy  courts. 


121      Route  U.  rOMPEII.  Porta  Marina. 

The  reconstruction  of  a  complete  house  in  its  original  form  would 
be  most,  interesting  and  instructive,  but  has  not  yet  been  carried  out. 
(A  good  model  is  to  be  seen  at  the  Museum  of  Naples,  p.  72.) 

Decoration.  Marble  is  rarely  met  with  in  the  public  or 
domestic  architecture  of  Pompeii ,  the  columns  being  invariably 
constructed  of  tuffstone  or  bricks ,  cemented  by  mortar.  They 
were  then  covered  with  stucco,  which  took  the  place  of  marble, 
and  afforded  ample  scope  for  decorative  painting.  It  is  in  fact 
hardly  possible  to  imagine  a  gayer  or  more  richly  decorated  town 
than  Pompeii  must  have  been.  The  lower  halves  of  the  columns  are 
generally  red,  the  capitals  tastefully  painted ;  the  walls,  too,  where 
undecorated,  are  painted  with  bright,  and  almost  glaring  colours, 
chiefly  red  and  yellow,  harmonising  well  with  the  brilliancy  of  a 
southern  sun.  The  extreme  delicacy  and  variety  of  the  mural  deco- 
rations are  worthy  of  especial  notice.  The  centre  of  the  walls  is 
generally  occupied  by  a  painting  unconnected  with  the  others.  The 
best  of  the.-e  were  removed  to  the  museum  at  Naples,  before  they 
had  suffered  from  exposure  to  the  elements;  many,  however,  of 
those  left  merit  inspection.  The  scenes  present  a  uniformly  soft, 
erotic  character,  corresponding  to  the  peaceful  and  pleasure-seek- 
ing taste  of  the  age  (comp.   Introd.,   p.  xxxix). 

We  now  proceed  to  describe  the  different  streets  and  build- 
ings ,  beginning  with  the  Porta  Marina  ,  by  which  we  enter  the 
town  on  arriving  from  the  station  (p.  118).  We  shall  then  proceed 
(comp.  Plan)  to  the  Forum  and  first  explore  thence  the  streets  in 
the  N.K.  quarter  of  the  town  —  those  of  the  Forum,  of  the 
Thernue,  of  the  Herculaneum  Gate,  and  of  the  Tombs.  Returning 
to  the  Sciiola  Archeologica,  we  shall  next  traverse  the  Yicolo  di 
Mnrcurio  to  the  Strada  di  Mercurio,  walk  thence  through  the  Vico 
Storto  to  the  street  of  the  Augustales  ,  and  then  proceed  by  the 
Stabian  street  and  the  Strada  dell'  Abbondanza  to  the  Forum  Trian- 
gulare  and  the  theatres.  Our  description  terminates  with  the  Amphi- 
theatre. The  chief  points  of  interest  are  printed  in  heavier  type. 
Those  who  are  pressed  for  time  had  better  omit  the  Amphitheatre. 

The  Guides  usually  conduct  visitors  from  the  Fomm  to  the  E.  into 
the  Strada  dell'  Abbondanza,  and  to  the  theatres  and  the  Amphitheatre, 
and  then  return  through  the  street  of  the  Augustales  to  the  Fortuna 
street,  where  they  keep  their  stock  of  photographs  and  souvenirs.  They 
next  show  the  street  which  is  now  in  course  of  being  excavated,  running 
towards  the  Vesuvius  gate,  and  beyond  it  the  Mercurius  street-,  and  they 
end  with  the  Herculaneum  Gate  and  the  Street  of  Tombs.  Those  who 
desire  to  form  a  distinct  idea  of  the  topography  and  arrangements  of  the 
town  are  recommended  either  to  adopt  the  following  plan,  or  to  frame 
<tne  for  themselves  and  name  to  the  guide  in  order  the  places  they  desire 
to  see. 

The  above-mentioned  Porta.  Marina  is  a  vaulted  passage  under 
ancient  magazines,  which  have  been  built  over  in  modern  times. 
The  street  now  ascends  rapidly,  like  all  the  other  approaches  to 
the  town,  which  lies  on  an  eminence.  The  passage.  IT1/,  ft.  in 
width  and  T f> ' /2  ft.  in  length,  has  a  path  for  foot-passengers  on 
the  left. 


Temple  of  Venus.  POMPEII.  9.  Route.      125 

On  the  right  in  this  passage  is  the  entrance  to  the  *Museum, 
recently  established  here,  which  contains  many  interesting  ob- 
jects,  though  none  of  artistic  value. 

Among  these  are  casts  and  models  of  doors,  windows,  shop-shutters, 
and  other  objects  in  wood. 

In  glass  cases  are  preserved  casts  of  eight  human  corpses,  and  one 
of  the  hody  of  a  dog.  Although  the  soft  parts  of  the  bodies  had  decayed 
in  course  of  time,  their  forms  frequently  remained  imprinted  on  the 
ashes,  which  afterwards  hardened.  In  1863  Fiorelli  made  the  ingenious  ex- 
periment of  carefully  removing  the  bones  of  a  body  thus  imbedded, 
and  filling  the  cavity  with  plaster,  and  he  has  succeeded  admirably  in 
preserving  the  figures  and  attitudes  of  the  deceased  after  their  death- 
struggle.  On  the  point  of  flight,  many  of  them  had  divested  themselves 
of  most  of  their  clothing.  Among  the  figures  are  a  young  girl  with  a  ring 
on  her  finger,  two  women,  one  tall  and  elderly,  and  the  other  younger: 
a  man  lying  on  his  face;  and  a  man  lying  on  his  left  side  with  remark- 
ably well  preserved  features. 

There  are  also  amphorae,  vases,  rain-spouts,  etc.,  in  terracotta;  vessels 
in  bronze;  carbonised  articles  of  food  like  those  at  Naples  (p.  7\M; 
skulls,  and  skeletons  of  men  and  animals. 

The  Via  Marina  ascends  hence  in  a  straight  direction  to  the 
Forum,  being  bounded  by  a  wall  on  the  right,  and  by  uninteresting 
shops  on  the  left.  Behind  these  are  a  number  of  houses  recently 
excavated,  but  presenting  little  attraction. 

On  the  right  at  the  end  of  the  Via  Marina  is  a  side-entrance  to 
the  Basilica  (PI.  (54),  an  oblong  edifice,  220  ft.  long  and  82  ft. 
broad,  with  its  facade  towards  the  Forum.  A  passage  round  the 
interior  consists  of  twenty-eight  brick  columns  with  capitals  of 
tufa ;  the  space  in  the  centre  was  probably  roofed  in.  On  the 
walls  are  half-columns,  all  covered  with  stucco.  At  the  end  of 
the  building  was  the  elevated  tribune,  or  seat  of  the  presiding 
magistrate,  which  was  probably  approached  by  movable  steps.  In 
front  of  it  is  a  pedestal  for  a  statue;  below  are  vaulted  prisons, 
reached  by  a  staircase.  In  the  year  79  the  building  must  obvi- 
ously have  been  undergoing  extensive  alterations. 

Also  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Forum,  to  the  left  of  the  Via 
Marina,  is  situated  the  so-called  *Temple  of  Venus  (PI.  G3), 
an  edifice  of  very  early  origin,  but  restored  after  the  earthquake 
of  (i3.  The  temple  is  surrounded  by  a  spacious,  irregular  quad- 
rangle, 177  ft.  long,  on  the  S.  side  103  ft.  and  on  the  N.  side 
109  ft.  broad.  As  the  side  towards  the  Forum  was  not  parallel 
with  it,  the  wall,  in  order  to  prevent  the  eye  being  offended  by 
this  irregularity,  was  furnished  in  the  interior  with  eight  buttresses 
at  intervals,  each  projecting  farther  than  the  last.  The  portico  is 
borne  by  forty-eight  columns,  originally  Doric,  which  had  been 
converted  by  means  of  stucco  into  Corinthian ;  but  this  coating 
has  now  fallen  off.  The  Temple  itself  rises  in  the  centre  of  the 
court,  on  a  basement  65  ft.  in  length,  39  ft.  in  width,  and 
T'/o  ft-  in  height,  and  is  approached  by  thirteen  steps.  Facing 
these  stands  an  Altar,  with  an  inscription  of  the  donors,  the 
quatuorviri    of  the  town,    and  still  bearing  trace,   of    its    former 


126      Route  9.  POMPEII.  Forum. 

use  for  offerings  of  incense.  To  the  right  in  the  colonnade  is  a 
statue  of  unknown  import.  On  the  left,  opposite,  in  front  of  the 
small  altars,  were  placed  several  other  statues  (among  which  were 
the  Venus  and  Hermaphrodite  found  here).  The  temple  itself 
was  surrounded  by  a  colonnade,  and  had  a  facade  of  six  columns. 
Within  the  vestibule  was  the  shrine ,  where  the  figure  of  the 
goddess  stood  on  a  lofty  pedestal.  A  much  mutilated  statue  of 
Venus  was  found  here.  Fine  view  of  M.  Santangelo  from  this 
point.  —  Behind  the  court  of  the  temple  are  chambers  for  the 
priestesses,  decorated  with  paintings. 

The  *Forum  (PL  57,  Forum  Civile)  forms  the  central  point 
of  the  town  (109  ft.  above  the  sea-level).  On  the  N.  side,  de- 
tached,  stands  the  temple  of  Jupiter  (p.  127);  the  other  sides 
are  enclosed  by  an  arcade.  The  Area ,  or  open  space  in  the 
centre,  515  ft.  in  length  and  107  ft.  in  breadth,  is  paved  with 
large  slabs.  Six  streets  converge  here,  but  the  forum  was  pro- 
tected against  the  trespass  of  riders  or  waggons  by  stone  pillars 
round  the  margins,  and  could  even  be  entirely  shut  off  by  gates. 
In  the  area  are  twenty-two  bases  for  statues,  erected  in  honour 
of  emperors  and  other  illustrious  men,  five  of  which  (fouT  on  the 
W.  side,  one  at  the  S.E.  corner)  still  bear  incriptions,  dedicat- 
ed to  officials  of  high  rank,  the  duumviri  (similar  to  the  consuls 
of  Rome)  and  quinquennales  (censors)  of  the  town.  The  exten- 
sive basements  on  the  S.  side  were  destined  for  equestrian  statues, 
most  of  the  pedestals  never  having  been  completed.  The  colon- 
nade surrounding  the  Forum  varies  in  breadth  from  26  to  45  ft., 
a  number  of  the  buildings  which  adjoin  it  having  been  erected 
at  a  date  prior  to  the  construction  of  the  Forum.  Above  the 
lower  columns  of  the  Doric  order  rose  a  second  series  of  the  Ionic, 
thus  constituting  an  upper,  covered  passage,  approached  by  steps, 
several  of  which  are  still  preserved.  The  whole  was  in  an  unfin- 
ished condition  at  the  time  when  the  town  was  destroyed;  por- 
tions of  the  frieze ,  consisting  of  limestone ,  placed  round  the 
colonnade,  are  still  in  a  rough  state;  on  the  8.  and  E.  sides 
are  older  columns  of  tuffstone. 

To  the  right  of  the  Basilica,  on  the  8.  side  of  the  Forum,  are 
situated  the  Tribunals  (PL  66),  three  adjacent  chambers,  each 
with  a  semicircular  extremity,  handsomely  built  of  brick  which 
was  once  covered  with  marble.  Their  use  is  not  distinctly  ascer- 
tained;  but  they  seem  to  have  been  minor  courts  of  justice. 

To  the  left  of  the  tribunals  diverges  the  Street  of  the  Schools, 
pursuing  an  E.  direction  as  far  as  the  Forum  Triangulare  (p.  140). 
The  excavated  houses  are  again  partially  covered  with  rubbish, 
and  therefore  devoid  of  interest. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  Forum,  at  the  corner  of  the  handsome 
Strada  dell'  Abbondanza,  is  a  square  hall,  erroneously  supposed 
to  be  a   school. 


Temple  of  Jupiter.  POMPEII.  '.I.  Route.      127 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  Forum  No.  1,  is  situated 
the  *Chalcidicum  (PI.  62),  erected  by  the  priestess  Eumachia,  and 
perhaps  used  as  an  exchange.  On  the  frieze  of  the  portico  facing 
the  Forum,  and  still  more  fully  over  the  entrance  in  the  Str. 
dell'  Abbondanza,  may  be  read  the  following  inscription  :  'Eumackia 
Lucii  ftlia  sacerdos  publica  nomine  suo  et  M.  Numistri  Frontonis 
fili  chalcidicum  cryptum  porticus,  Concordiae  Augustae  Pietati  sun 
pecunia  fecit  eademque  dedicavit.'1  The  interior  is  separated  from 
the  portico  by  a  number  of  small  chambers,  which  were  used  as 
a  kind  of  magazine,  where  a  great  number  of  marble  slabs, 
destined  for  the  completion  of  the  edifice,  were  found.  In  the 
interior  is  an  open  court,  123  ft.  in  length  and  62  ft.  in  width, 
once  surrounded  by  fifty-four  columns  of  Parian  marble,  of  which 
three  only  are  left,  and  these  in  a  mutilated  condition.  This 
colonnade  (chalcidicum)  is  surrounded  by  a  covered  passage  (crypta!, 
which  afforded  protection  against  the  weather.  At  the  back  of 
this,  in  a  niche,  stands  the  statue  of  Eumachia  (a  copy,  the  ori- 
ginal being  at  Naples,  p.  68),  erected  by  the  fullers  (fullones)  of 
Pompeii.  On  the  external  wall  of  the  Chalcidicum  is  the  copy 
of  an  inscription  found  here,   dedicated  to  Romulus. 

We  next  reach  No.  2,  the  so-called  *Temple  of  Mercury 
(PI.  61'),  83  ft.  in  length  and  53  ft.  in  breadth.  A  number  of 
excavated  objects  have  been  placed  here :  vases,  spouts  of  fount- 
ains, rain  -  gutters  ,  capitals,  stone- weights  with  iron  handles, 
mortars,  earthenware,  etc.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  are  vess- 
els of  lead,  fragments  of  glass,  bone  articles,  iron  gratings,  fetters, 
tires  of  waggon-wheels ;  to  the  right  earthenware  and  fragments 
of  marble.  In  the  centre  an  *altar  in  marble  with  reliefs:  on  the 
front  victims,  on  the  sides  the  sacrificial  utensils.  The  form  of 
this  temple  is  very  irregular.  At  the  extremity  of  the  area  is  the 
small  shrine  with  a  pedestal  for  the  statue  of  the  god. 

No.  3,  adjacent,  is  the  Curia  (PI.  59),  where,  as  is  generally 
believed,  the  town-council  held  their  deliberations.  It  is  a  square 
hall ,  65  ft.  long ,  58  ft.  broad ,  with  hemicyclical  termination 
and  several  niches,   but  greatly  damaged. 

Opposite,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Forum  and  in  the  most  con- 
spicuous part  of  it,  rises  the  *Temple  of  Jupiter  (PI.  60),  on  a 
basement  9'/.2  ft.  in  height.  At  the  time  of  the  eruption  it  was 
in  process  of  being  restored.  The  Pronaos  is  approached  by  eigh- 
teen steps,  and  has  a  facade  of  six  columns  with  three  on  each 
side.  Apertures  in  the  ground  admit  light  to  the  underground 
chambers,  which  were  used  as  a  magazine  for  building  materials, 
having  originally  been  probably  a  treasury.  The  whole  length 
of  the  temple  is  118  ft.  Behind  the  Pronaos  is  the  shrine,  with 
two  series  of  Ionic  columns,  eight  in  each,  arranged  close  to  the 
walls,  which  are  painted  in  the  brightest  colours.  At  the  back 
are  three    chambers.      At    the  farther  end,    to  the  left,    a  flight 


1  28      Route  9.  POMPEII.  Temple  ofAagustus. 

of  steps  ascends  to  the  basement  which  bore  the  statue  of  the 
god,  which  the  visitor  should  not  omit  to  visit  as  it  affords  a  fine 
*panorama  of  Pompeii,  M.  Santangelo  crowned  by  the  chapel  of  S. 
Michele,  the  castle  of  Quisisana,   and  the  chain  of  the  Apennines. 

Parsing  along  the  \V.  side  of  the  Forum,  we  observe,  at  the 
end  of  the  Temple  of  Venus,  No.  3i,  a  niche,  in  which,  as 
an  inscription  found  here  informs  us,  the  standard  weights  and 
measures  were  kept.  Then  follows  a  flight  of  steps,  which  led 
to  the  arcade,  and  formed  an  approach  to  the  Temple  of  Venus. 
Adjoining  the  latter  is  No.  29,  the  so-called  Lesche,  a  hall  ap- 
parently for  public  purposes.  Beyond  this  is  No.  28,  a  public 
liitrina,  and  then  a  building,  which  from  its  narrow,  gloomy 
cells  appears  to  have  been  a  prison.  An  adjacent  wall  separated 
it  from  the  Forum.  In  front  of  it,  adjoining  the  Temple  of 
Jupiter,  is  a   Triumphal  Arch. 

At  the  E.  end  of  the  Forum,  adjoining  the  Curia,  stands 
the  so-called  *Temple  of  Augustus  (PI.  58),  sometimes  named 
the  Pantheon,  an  edifice  whose  object  is  involved  in  mystery. 
In  front  of  it  are  pedestals  for  statues;  on  the  exterior,  shops 
possibly  occupied  by  money-changers.  The  building  is  entered 
by  two  doors  (Nos.  7  and  8).  The  interior  consists  of  a  rectan- 
gular court,  122  ft.  in  length  and  80  ft.  in  width.  The  walls 
are  decorated  with  frescoes  (those  to  the  left  of  the  entrance, 
the  best  preserved  ,  represent  Argus  and  lo,  Ulysses  and  Pene- 
lope). The  court  was  still  unfinished  when  the  catastrophe  took 
place ;  it  was  destined  to  be  enclosed  by  a  colonnade,  but  the 
limestone  slabs  of  the  pavement  have  been  laid  on  the  N.  and  W. 
sides  only,  while  on  the  other  sides  the  enclosure  is  formed  by- 
blocks  of  tufa.  A  dodecagon  is  formed  in  the  centre  by  twelve 
pedestals  for  statues.  To  the  right  are  eleven  chambers  simply 
painted  red ;  at  the  extremity  is  an  exit  into  a  back  street.  To 
the  left  is  one  of  the  principal  outlets  to  the  Street  of  the  Au- 
gustales  (named  after  this  edifice).  On  the  E.  side,  opposite  us 
as  we  enter  the  building,  rises  the  shrine.  On  the  principal  pedes- 
tal stood  the  statue  of  the  emperor ,  in  the  side  niches  Livia  and 
Drusus  (here  replaced  by  copies).  To  the  left  of  this  shrine  was 
another  with  an  altar,  which  perhaps  was  employed  in  the  cele- 
bration of  the  sacrificial  banquets ;  the  gallery  by  the  lateral 
wall  is  believed  to  have  been  an  orchestra.  To  the'right  a  larger 
apartment,  containing  stands  of  masonry  with  a  slight  inclination, 
and  furnished  with  gutters  below  to  carry  off  blood  or  water, 
is  supposed  to  have  been  a  kitchen.  The  whole  establishment  was 
probably  used  by  the  college  of  Augustales.  The  arrangements 
resemble   those  of  the  Serapeum  at  Pozzuoli  (p.  92). 

Adjacent  to  the  Temple  of  Augustus  rises  a  Triumphal  Arch 
of  brick,  now  divested  of  its  marble,  which  here  forms  the  bound- 
ary of  the  Forum.    Under  it   begins  the  Street  of  the  Forum. 


Thermae.  POMPEII.  <).  Route.      129 

which  we  now  follow  [called  in  its  prolongation  the  Street  of 
Mercury,  p.  133).  The  first  transverse  street  immediately  beyond 
the  Triumphal  Arch  is  that  of  the  Augustales.  At  the  corner  is  a 
relief  with  figures  of  two  men  carrying  a  wine-jar,  being  the  sign 
of  a  wine-merchant.  Farther  on ,  a  little  to  the  right ,  is  the 
depot  of  the   objects    sold   by  the  guides  (pp.   118,   1*24"). 

No.  1,  at  the  corner  of  the  next  cross-street,  is  the  Temple 
of  Fortuna  (PI.  49)  ,  erected  according  to  the  inscription  by  M. 
Tullius  during  the  reign  of  Augustus.  It  is  approached  by  thir- 
teen steps;  length  79  ft.,  breadth  29  ft.  Two  portrait-statues 
found  in  the  Cella  are  believed  to  have  belonged  to  the  Gens 
Tullia. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  Street  of  Mercury  rises  a  Brick  Arch, 
on  which  the  pipes  of  a  water-conduit  are  visible.  It  was  once 
surmounted  by  the  bronze  statue  of  Nero  mentioned  at  p.  71. 

We  now  turn  to  the  left  into  the  Strada  delle  Terme. 
No.  2,  on  the  left,  is  the  entrance  to  the  *  Thermae  (PI.  39), 
which  occupy  nearly  a  whole  insula,  i.e.  the  space  enclosed 
by  four  streets;  breadth  161  ft.  ,  depth  172ft.  The  exterior  was 
surrounded  by  shops,  which  had  no  connection  with  the  interior. 
Entrances  six  in  number.  A  great  part  of  the  establishment 
is  now  employed  as  magazines,  and  the  public  are  admitted  to 
one  half  of  the  actual  baths  only.  A  passage  leads  first  to  the 
chamber  for  undressing  (apodyterium) ,  37  ft.  long  ,  21  ft.  wide, 
and  surrounded  by  benches.  Beyond  this  is  the  cold  bath  (friyi- 
darium),  a  rotunda  with  four  niches.  The  vault  above  was  pro- 
vided with  a  glass  window.  In  the  centre  is  the  basin  ,  14  ft. 
in  diameter,  with  a  marble  ledge  surrounding  it.  From  the  un- 
dressing room  to  the  right  the  warm  bath  (tepidarium)  is  enter- 
ed, an  apartment  32  ft.  in  length,  IT'/a  ft.  in  breadth.  A  frieze 
running  round  it  is  furnished  with  niches  for  depositing  clothes  and 
articles  of  the  toilet,  and  is  supported  by  figures  of  Atlas  in  terra- 
cotta. The  vaulting  was  richly  decorated,  partly  with  stucco  figures 
in  relief.  This  chamber  was  heated  by  means  of  air-pipes,  and 
by  a  large  brazier  of  bronze.  Adjacent  is  the  hot-air  bath  (cali- 
darium  or  sudatorium),  52  ft.  long  and  17  ft.  broad.  A  niche  at 
the  end  contains  a  marble  basin  for  washing  the  hands  and 
face  with  cold  water ;  it  bears  an  inscription  recording  that  it 
was  erected  at  a  cost  of  5250  sesterces  (39t.  sterling).  At  the 
other  end  is  the  basin  for  warm  baths.  The  apartment  had 
double  walls  and  floor,  between  which  the  steam  diffused  itself. 
—  The  baths  also  possessed  an  extensive  colonnade,  now  con- 
verted into  a  garden,  besides  several  other  chambers  and  baths 
for  women,   none  of  which  are  at  present  open  to  the  public. 

Nearly  opposite  to  the  Therma;  is  No.  5,  the  *House  of  the 
Tragic  Poet  (PI.  38),  one  of  the  most  elegant  in  Pompeii,  so 
called  from  two  representations  found  in  the  tahlinum  —  a  poet 
Baedlkee.     Italy  III.     6t.li  Edition.  9 


1  HO      Route  0.  POMPEII.  House  of  Pansa. 

reading,  and  a  theatrical  rehearsal  (which,  together  with  beautiful 
paintings  of  subjects  from  the  Iliad,  are  now  in  the  museum  at 
Naples);  but  it  was  more  probably  the  house  of  a  goldsmith,  if 
we  may  judge  from  the  trinkets  discovered  in  the  adjoining  shop. 
This  is  represented  by  Bulwer  in  his  'Last  Days  of  Pompeii' 
as  the  dwelling  of  Glaucus.  On  the  threshold  was  a  dog  in 
mosaic,  with  the  inscription  'Cave  Canem'  (p.  65),  now  in  the 
Museum.  The  peristyle  of  seven  columns  is  closed  at  the  back 
by  a  wall,  on  which  is  a  small  shrine  of  the  Lares.  In  a  room 
to  the  left  of  the  latter,  Venus  and  Cupid  fishing,  and  the  deserted 
Ariadne.  In  the  triclinium  on  the  right,  Leda  presenting  Tyndarus 
with  Castor,  Pollux,  and  Helen  in  a  nest,  Theseus  abandoning 
Ariadne,   and  Diana  with   Orion. 

We  continue  to  follow  the  Strada  delle  Terme.  No.  1,  on  the 
right,  beyond  the  cross-street,  is  the  House  of  Pansa  (PI.  37), 
one  of  the  largest  in  Pompeii,  occupying  a  whole  insula,  319ft.  long 
and  124  ft.  broad.  It  comprises  sixteen  shops  and  dwellings,  facing 
the  different  streets.  On  the  threshold  was  found  a  mosaic  with 
the  greeting  'Salve'.  This  house  affords  a  normal  specimen  of  a 
palatial  residence  of  the  imperial  epoch ,  complete  in  all  its 
appointments  :  atrium  ,  tablinum  ,  peristyle  ,  oecus  (to  the  left, 
adjacent,  the  kitchen  with  the  snakes) ,  and  lastly  the  garden  or 
Xystus.    Comp.  Ground-plan,  p.  123. 

We  next  turn  to  the  right  towards  the  Porta  di  Ercolano.  At 
the  picturesque  corner  opposite,  No.  20,  is  a  tavern,  the  street  to 
the  left  of  which  leads  to  the  gate.  This  was  a  business  street, 
and  contained  few  handsome  dwelling-houses. 

On  the  left  is  a  house  fitted  up  as  a  Library,  containing  an 
extensive  collection  of  archaeological  works  on  Pompeii,  and  for 
the  reception  of  students  supported  by  government  (Scuola  Ar- 
cheologica)- 

On  the  right,  No.  4,  is  the  House  of  Sallust  (PI.  33),  with  gaily 
painted  atrium ,  behind  which  are  the  tablinum  and  a  small  irre- 
gularly shaped  garden,  with  a  dining-room  (triclinium)  in  the 
corner.  Instead  of  a  peristyle,  this  house  contains  a  small  court 
enclosed  by  pillars,  to  the  right  of  the  atrium,  and  styled,  though 
without  good  reason,  the  Venereum.  On  the  wall  opposite,  *Actaeon 
converted  into  a  stag,  and  torn  to  pieces  by  his  own  dogs. 

No.  6  is  a  Bake-house,  with  ovens  and  different  mills  for 
grinding  the  corn.  The  latter  were  probably  turned  by  asses,  or 
in  some  cases  by  slaves. 

At  the  corner  of  the  street  is  a  fountain ,  and  behind  it  a 
cistern.  The  Street  of  Narcissus  diverges  here  to  the  right,  leading 
to  the  town-wall,  but  containing  no  object  of  interest. 

Some  of  the  houses  on  the  left,  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  occu- 
pied by  the  town,  had  several  stories,  and  large  vaults,  used  as 
maen/.ines. 


Street  of  Tomb*.  POMPEII.  'J.  Route.       131 


tont- 


A  large,  open  hall  to  the  right,  No.  13,  was  a  kind  of  (Ms to 
House,  (PI.  27j ,   where  a  number  of  weights  and  measures  were 
found,  one  of  which  had  been  stamped  in  the  Capitol  at  Rome. 

No.  10,  a  little  farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  House  of  the 
Surgeon  (PI.  26"),  so  called  from  a  considerable  number  of  surgical 
instruments  found  here.  It  is  remarkable  for  its  massive  con- 
struction of  limestone  blocks  from  the  river  Sarno,  and  is  probably 
the  most  ancient  house  in  the  town.  AVe  next  reach  No.  7,  on 
the  right,  the  extensive  House  of  the  Vestals  (PI.  25). 

No.  3,  on  the  left,  opposite,  is  a  large  Tavern,  with  a  phallus 
towards  the  street,  intended  to  avert  the  evil  eye.  It  contains  two 
wine-tables,  and  has  an  entrance  for  waggons.  From  the  cham- 
bers at  the  back,  as  well  as  from  the  preceding  and  following 
houses  on  this  side,  a  charming  glimpse  is  obtained  of  the  bay 
with  the  island  of  Capri ;  near  the  land  is  the  picturesque  little 
rocky  island  of  Revigliano  ;   to  the  right  is  Torre  dell'  Annunziata. 

No.  2.  on  the  right,  is  another  tavern,  and  beyond  it  is  the 
Porta  di  Ercolano  (136  ft.  above  the  sea-level).  To  the  right  of 
the  gate  is  the  approach  to  the  *Town  Wall,  which  may  be  visited 
for  the  sake  of  the  view.  The  wall  is  2843  yds.  in  circumference, 
and  consists  of  an  outer  and  inner  wall,  the  intervening  space 
being  filled  with  earth.  The  height  of  the  external  wall  varies  ac- 
cording to  the  ground  from  25  to  33  ft.,  the  internal  being  uni- 
formly 8  ft.  higher.  Being  constructed  in  several  very  different 
styles,  it  obviously  dates  from  several  distinct  periods.  The  older 
part  is  built  of  large  blocks  of  tufa  and  limestone,  while  the  more 
recent  consists  chiefly  of  concrete  (small  pieces  of  lava  consolidated 
with  cement).  The  difference  between  these  kinds  of  building 
will  be  observed  near  this  gate.  At  a  later  period,  perhaps  during 
the  Social  "War,  it  was  strengthened  by  the  addition  of  towers. 
During  the  undisturbed  peace  of  the  imperial  period,  the  walls 
on  the  side  towards  the  sea  were  probably  removed  .  and  their 
site  built  over.  The  Gate  of  Herculaneum  is  one  of  the  more 
recent  structures.  It  consists  of  three  series  of  arches,  of  which  the 
central  and  largest  has  fallen  in.  The  depth  of  the  passage  is 
59  ft. 

Outside  this  gate  lay  a  considerable  suburb,  the  Paijvs 
Anirustits  Feli.r,  so  named  in  honour  of  Augustus.  One  street 
of  this  only  has  been  partially  excavated;  but  several  others  di- 
\erged  from  it  on  each  side.  This  is  the  so-called  *  Street  of  the 
Tombs  (Strada  dei  Sepolcri),  the  great  military  road  from  Capua 
to  Naples.  Herculaneum,  Pompeii,  and  Reggie.  The  ancient  Koman 
custom  of  burying  the  dead  by  the  side  of  a  high  road  is  well 
known.  It  has  been  ascertained  that  rows  of  graves,  similar  to 
those  discovered  here,  exist  beyond  the  other  gates  also.  The 
Street  of  Tombs  is  in  point  of  situation  the  most  beautiful  part 
of  the  town. 

9* 


1 32      Route  9.  POMPEII.  Street  of  Tombs. 

On  the  right,   No.  1,  is  a  large  unfinished  pedestal. 

On  the  left,  No.  1,  is  the  Tomb  of  Cerinius  (PI.  22),  a  recess 
with  seats.  It  h  is  been  said  that  this  was  a  sentry-box,  and  that 
the  skeleton  found  in  it  was  that  of  the  sentinel  who  expired  at 
his  post ;   but  this  is  a  mere  fiction. 

L.  No.  2,  a  semicircular  seat  with  the  tomb  of  the  duumvir 
^1 .  Veins . 

L.  No.  4,  *Tomb  of  Mamia  (PI.  20);  in  front  a  seat  like  the 
above,  with  the  inscription  :  iMumiae  Publii  filiae  sacerdoti  pu- 
blicae  Locus  sepulturae  datus  decurionum  decreto' .  At  the  back, 
enclosed  by  a  low  wall,  is  the  columbarium,  with  niches  for 
cinerary  urns.  A  solitary  cypress  adorns  the  tomb.  The  view 
hence  of  the  bay  and  the  mountains  of  Castellamare  is  singularly 
beautiful. 

On  a  street  diverging  to  the  right,  No.  2,  is  the  Tomb  of  Teren- 
lius  (PI.  IS).  —  Beyond  it,  on  the  right,  No.  2,  is  the  Tomb  of  the 
Garlands  (PI.  16),  so  called  from  its  decorations;  name  unknown. 
K.    No.  9,  a  tomb  with  open  recess  and  seat. 

On  the  left  is  the  so,- called  Villa  of  Cicero  (PI.  13),  again 
covered  up.  The  buttresses  still  visible  belong  to  a  colonnade  which 
ran  parallel  to  the  street. 

U.  Nos.  10  and  11,  two  shops.  No.  12,  House  of  the  Mosaic 
Columns  (PI.  14),  very  dilapidated.  The  entrance  leads  first  into 
a  garden,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  recess  inlaid  with  mosaic,  and 
used  as  a  fountain;  to  the  left  is  a  court  with  a  private  chapel  and 
altar.     The  two  staircases  ascended  to  the  upper  floor. 

On  the  left,  beyond  the  villa  of  Cicero,  several  handsome  mon- 
uments will  be  observed:  No.  16,  that  of  Servilia  (PI.  11).  No.  17, 
that  of  Scaurus  (PI.  10),  with  reliefs  in  stucco,  representing  the 
gladiatorial  combats  celebrated  in  honour  of  the  deceased,  but  in  a 
very  imperfect  state.  The  columbarium  with  niches  for  the  urns 
should  be  visited. 

On  the  right  is  a  long  arcade,  at  the  back  of  which  there  were 
shops.  Prom  the  skeleton  of  a  mule  found  here  it  has  been 
suggested  that  this  was  a  resort  of  peasants  on  market-days.  In 
the  last  shop  is  a  stove,  the  upper  part  of  which  consisted  of 
earthenware  vessels  fitted  together.  In  1872  several  ancient  tombs 
of  limestone  were  discovered  here,  belonging  to  the  remote  Oscan 
period,  when  the  dead  were  buried  instead  of  being  burned,  and 
when  painted  vessels  of  terracotta  were  interred  with  them.  —  The 
street  which  diverges  here  is  still  unexcavated. 

On  the  right  are  several  ruined  tombs,  the  first  of  which  is 
supposed  to  have  been  an  ustrinum,   or  place  of  cremation. 

I>.    No.   18,   a  circular  monument,  name  unknown. 

L.  No.  20,  "Tomb  of  the  Auyustalis  (.'aloentius  Quintus(P\.^'\- 
below  the  inscription  is  represented  the  bisellium  (seat  of  honour) 
accorded  him   in  recognition  of  his  liberality. 


Villa  of  Diomeile*.  POMPEII.  U.  Route.       133 

It.  No.  37,  *Tomb  of  the  Libella  family  (PI.  7),  of  travertine, 
and  well  preserved,  with  inscriptions.  Beyond,  to  the  right,  are 
several  ruined  tombs,  with  inscriptions  partially  preserved. 

I,.  No.  22,  *Tomb  of  Naevoleia  Tyche  (PI.  5),  with  chamber 
for  cinerary  urns.  The  deceased  was  a  freedwoman,  who,  ac- 
cording to  the  inscription,  destined  this  tomb  for  herself  and 
C.  Munatius  Faustus,  chief  official  of  this  quarter  of  the  town, 
and  for  their  freedmen ;  a  relief  below  Tefers  to  the  con- 
secration of  the  tomb;  on  the  left  side  is  the  bisellium,  or  ma- 
gisterial seat  of  Munatius,  on  the  right  a  vessel  entering  the  har- 
bour, a  symbol  of  human  life.  No.  23  was  a  Triclinium  for  ban- 
quets in  honour  of  the  dead. 

No.  11,  *ViIla  of  Diomedes  (PI.  1),  arbitrarily  so  called  from 
the  opposite  tomb  of  the  family  of  Arrius  Diomedes  (PI.  2).  The 
arrangement  of  this,  like  that  of  other  villas,  differs  considerably 
from  that  of  the  urban  dwellings.  A  flight  of  steps  with  two  col- 
umns leads  at  once  to  the  peristyle  of  fourteen  Doric  columns, 
whence  the  bath  is  entered  to  the  left.  Opposite  are  terraces,  which 
rise  above  the  second  and  lower  portion  of  the  house.  The  garden, 
107  ft.  square,  with  a  basin  for  a  fountain  in  the  centre,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  colonnade.  From  the  terrace  a  staircase  descends  to 
the  left  (another,  from  the  entrance  from  the  street,  to  the  right). 
Below  this  colonnade ,  on  three  sides,  lies  a  vaulted  cellar  which 
merits  a  visit,  lighted  by  small  apertures  above,  and  approached 
by  staircases  descending  at  each  end.  Seventeen  bodies  of  women 
and  children,  who  had  provided  themselves  with  food,  and  sought 
protection  in  this  vault  against  the  eruption,  were  found  here.  But 
impalpable  ashes  penetrated  through  the  openings  into  the  interior, 
and  too  late  the  ill-fated  party  endeavoured  to  escape.  They  were 
found  with  their  heads  wrapped  up.  half  buried  by  the  ashes.  The 
impression  made  on  the  ashes  by  a  girl's  breast  is  now  in  the 
museum  at  Naples.  The  probable  proprietor  of  the  house  was 
found  near  the  garden-door  (now  walled  up),  with  the  key  in 
his  hand;   beside  him  was  a  slave  with  money  and  valuables. 

We  now  retrace  our  steps  by  the  same  route  to  the  Gate  of 
Herculaneum  and  the  Scuola  Archeologicit  (p.  130),  whence  we 
enter  the    Vicolo  di   Mrrr.urio ,    the  transverse    street  to  the  left. 

The  third  street  intersecting  the  latter  at  right  angles  is  the 
important  Strada  di  Mercurio,  leading  from  the  town-wall  to  the 
Forum  (p.  126)  and  deriving  its  name  from  a  Fountain  with 
a  Mercury's  head  immediately  on  the  right.  We  now  turn  to 
the  left  towards  the  town-wall. 

Nos.  6  and  7  on  the  opposite  (  N.  )  side  are  the  House  of  Cantor 
and  Pollux  (PI.  46),  consisting  of  two  distinct  houses,  but  connect- 
ed. No.  7  is  simple  and  homely.  It  is  connected  with  the  neigh- 
bouring house  by  a  large  peristyle,  adorned  with  paintings  all 
round;    at    the  end  is    a  basin  for    a    fountain;    beyond   it    is    a 


134      Route  9.  POMPEII.  House  of  Meleager. 

hall.  From  tlie  peristyle  the  atrium  of  the  other  house  is 
entered  to  the  left,  beyond  which  are  the  tablinum  and  a  garden 
with  lararium.  The  best  preserved  of  the  frescoes  is  one  of 
Apollo  and  Daphne  in  a  room  to  the  left  of  the  garden. 

Farther  on,  Nos.  5-3,  House  of  the  Centaur  (PI.  45),  two 
different  houses,  connected  by  a  door.  No.  5  has  an  underground 
dwelling,   the  vaulting  of  which  has  fallen  in. 

Adjacent,  No.  2,  *House  of  Meleager  (PL  44).  Within  the 
doorway,  to  the  right,  Mercury  handing  a  purse  to  Fortuna.  The 
richly  decorated  atrium  contains  a  marble  table ,  borne  by  grif- 
fins. Contrary  to  the  usual  arrangement,  the  peristyle  does  not  lie 
behind,  but  to  the  left  of  the  atrium.  This  is  the  finest  peristyle 
which  has  been  discovered  at  Pompeii,  being  73  ft.  in  length,  and 
(JO  ft.  in  breadth.  The  porticus  is  borne  by  twenty-four  columns 
(lower  part  red,  upper  white),  and  adorned  by  a  graceful  fountain. 
Adjoining  the  peristyle  at  the  back  is  an  ascus,  enclosed  on 
three  sides  by  twelve  yellow  painted  columns.  The  frescoes  are 
also  yellow ;  among  them,  to  the  right,  a  young  Satyr  startling  a  Bac- 
chante with  a  snake.  To  the  left  of  the  cecus  is  a  hall  with  frescoes  : 
on  the  transverse  wall  to  the  left,   the  Judgment  of  Paris. 

We  return  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  street.  No.  23, 
House  of  Apollo  (PL  43),  so  named  from  the  numerous 
representations  of  that  god  which  were  found  here.  Behind 
the  tablinum,  a  fountain  of  grotesque  style.  To  the  right  is 
an  adjoining  court,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  handsome  sleeping- 
chamber  (for  two  beds);  on  the  external  wall  is  a  landscape  with 
a  Bacchanalian,  and  a  mosaic  of  Achilles  in  Scyrus ;  among  the 
weapons  which  Ulysses  oilers  him  is  a  shield,  on  which  Achilles 
and  Chiron  are  represented. 

No.  18,  House  of  the  Wounded  Adonis  (PL  42).  In  the 
Xystus.  to  the  right,  a  fresco,  above  life-size,  of  *Adonis  wounded, 
tended  and  bewailed  by  Venus  and  Cupids;  at  the  sides, 
Achilles  and  Chiron.  In  a  room  to  the  left  of  the  Xystus, 
'Toilet  of  the  Hermaphrodite'. 

Continuing  to  follow  the  Strada  di  Mercurio,  we  next  observe 
on  the  left,  opposite  the  fountain  mentioned  at  p.  133, 
No.  1,  a  ''Tarern ;  towards  the  street  is  a  table  covered  with 
marble  and  a  fire-place.  A  door  leads  from  the  shop  to  the  left 
into  a  small  room  adorned  with  various  allusions  to  drinking: 
a  waggon  with  a  wine-cask,  players  and  drinkers,  eatables,  etc. 
In  the  corner  to  the  left  a  soldier  is  being  served;  above  him  is 
scribbled:  'da  fridam  pusillum'  (a  glass  of  cold).  To  the  right 
twn  other  chambers,  out  of  the  first  of  which  a  door  leads  to  the 
neighbouring  house  No.  K,  the  Citsa.  dei  Cinque  Scheletri  (so  called 
from  the  five  skeletons  found  here),  which  was  perhaps  used  as 
a   lodging-house. 

From  the   corner  of  the    Vicolo  di   Mercurio  a  digression   may 


House  of  the  Faun.  POMPEII.  9.  Route.       135 

be  made  in  the  adjacent  street  to  the  left  to  the  House  of  the 
Labyrinth  (opposite  side  of  first  side-street,  immediately  to  the  left; 
PI.  47'),  a  roomy  dwelling  with  two  atria ;  principal  entrance  No.  il, 
second  door  No.  10.  In  the  passage  leading  to  the  peristyle,  imme- 
diately to  the  left  and  opening  on  the  latter,  is  a  window  of 
terracotta  with  six  small  apertures,  resembling  pigeon-holes.  In 
the  room  beyond  the  peristyle,  to  the  left,  a  mosaic  pavement : 
Theseus  killing  the  Minotaur  in  the  Labyrinth.  The  house  to 
the  left  was  destined  for  the  menage  ;  it  contains  three  rooms, 
with  a  finely  decorated  bath  and  large  bake-house. 

We  now  return  to  the  Strada  di  Mercurio. 

R.  No.  23,  *House  of  the  Small  Fountain  (delta  fontana  pic- 
cola,  PI.  41 J ;  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  a  staircase  ascends  to 
the  2nd  floor.  At  the  end  of  the  house  is  a  *Fountain  of  gaily 
coloured  mosaic,  adorned  with  a  small  and  graceful  bronze :  Boy 
with  a  goose  (a  copy,  original  at  Naples).  The  walls  are  deco- 
rated with  landscapes,   among  which  is  a  *Harbour  on  the  left. 

R.  No.  22,  House  of  the  Large  Fountain,  at  the  end  of 
which  is  a  mosaic  *Fountain  similar  to  the  above. 

R.  No.  20,  the  Fullonica  (PL  40).  or  fuller's  establishment. 
The  large  atrium ,  borne  by  square  pillars  (on  one  of  which 
were  frescoes  alluding  to  the  fuller's  art,  now  in  Naples),  was 
perhaps  covered  in  and  used  as  a  magazine.  Around  it  are 
chambers  for  the  workmen.  At  the  end  of  the  house  are  four 
basins  on  different  levels,  destined  for  washing  the  cloths,  which 
were  afterwards  stamped  with  the  feet  in  the  small  stands  to 
the  right.  One  egress  leads  to  the  Strada  delta  Fullonica.  Adjacent 
to  these  premises,  and  connected  with  them  by  a  door,  was  the 
dwelling-house  of  the  proprietor,   No.  21. 

L.  No.  6,  House  of  Pomponius,  with  an  oil-mill  to  the  right 
of  the  entrance. 

L.  No.  7,  House  of  the  Anchor  (PI.  48),  named  after  an 
anchor  in  mosaic  on  the  threshold,  a  spacious  dwelling.  By  the 
tablinum  a  staircase  descends  to  a  peristyle  on  the  level  of  the 
Strada  della  Fortuna,   surrounded  by  a  cryptoporticus. 

R.  No.  14,  Barbers  Shop,  very  small.  In  the  centre  a 
seat  for  customers ;   to  the  right  a  bench  and  two  recesses. 

Having  reached  the  brick  archway  of  the  Strada  di  Mer- 
curio (p.  129),  we  now  turn  to  the  left  into  the  Strada  l>eli,a 
Fortuna,  a  prolongation  of  the  Strada  delle  Terme  ,  leading  to 
the  Gate  of  Nola. 

L. ,  beyond  the  first  cross-street,  Nos.  2-5,  the  *House  of 
the  Faun  (PI.  50),  discovered  in  1830  in  presence  of  Goethe's 
son ,  and  entirely  excavated  during  the  two  following  years. 
The  name  is  derived  from  the  bronze  statuette  of  a  dancing 
Faun  found  here  (p.  70).  The  house  occupies  a  whole  insula, 
and    is    the    handsomest  in    Pompeii,    2G2    ft.    long    and    125  ft. 


136      Route  9.  POMPEII.  House  of  the  Chase. 

broad.  The  style  of  its  decoration  proves  it  to  date  from  the 
republican  era.  It  contained  beautiful  mosaics,  but  hardly  any 
mural  paintings.  The  stucco  on  the  walls  is  an  imitation  of  in- 
crustation in  coloured  marble  (comp.  p.  xli).  On  the  pavement 
in  front  of  the  house  is  the  greeting  'Have'.  It  possesses  two 
entrances  and  two  atria.  The  left  atrium  (35  ft.  by  38  ft.)  is 
in  the  Tuscan  style ,  i.  e.  the  roof  was  borne  by  cross-beams 
without  vertical  support.  On  each  side  of  it  there  are  four 
rooms.  The  4th  on  the  left  contains  a  *mosaic  representing  doves 
by  a  casket.  In  the  centre  of  the  impluvium  stood  the  bronze 
statuette  already  mentioned.  The  simpler  atrium  on  the  right  is 
an  atrium  tetrastylum ,  i.  e.  the  roof-beams  were  borne  by  four 
columns  near  the  impluvium.  The  peristyle  contains  twenty-eight 
Ionic  columns  of  tufa  coated  with  stucco.  In  the  exedra ,  which 
opens  on  the  peristyle,  was  found  the  celebrated  mosaic  of  the 
Battle  of  Alexander  (p.  69].  At  the  back  is  a  garden  105  ft.  long, 
115  ft.  broad,  enclosed  by  fifty-six  columns  of  the  Doric  order. 
Numerous  amphorae  were  found  here. 

R.  No.  59,  Casa  clella  Pareta  Nera  (PI.  51),  so  called  from 
the  black  wall  in  the  exedra,  covered  with  representations  of 
erotic  scenes,  beautifully  executed ,  but  unfortunately  in  bad 
preservation. 

R.  No.  57,  Casa  del  Capitelii  Fiyurati  (PI.  52),  named  after 
the  capitals  of  the  entrance-pillars,  adorned  with  heads  of  Bac- 
chantes and  Fauns.  From  the  peristyle  we  enter  a  sugar- 
bakehouse  ,  the  use  of  which  has  been  conjectured  from  the 
nature  of  the  objects  found  in  it.  The  stove  is  still  in 
existence. 

R.  No.  56,  House  of  the  Grand-Duke  of  Tuscany  (PI.  53), 
small,   with  mosaic  fountain. 

R.  No.  51,  House  of  Ariadne  (PL  54),  extending  to  the 
Street  of  the  Augustales,  towards  which  it  has  an  additional 
atrium.  The  atrium  next  to  the  Str.  della  Fortuna  has  twenty 
columns,  the  peristyle  sixteen,  the  lower  parts  being  yellow,  and 
the  capitals  variegated.  In  the  centre  is  a  fountain.  Various 
representations. 

R.  No.  48,  House  of  the  Chase  (PI.  55).  In  the  peristyle 
(which  has  columns  on  two  sides  only  and  a  basin  in  the  centre), 
opposite,  wild  beast  fights,  whence  the  name  of  the  house ;  on 
the  right,  landscapes.  Excavations  had  already  been  made  here 
in  ancient  times  ,  and  part  of  the  passage  then  formed  is  still 
to  be  seen  in  a  room  to  the  left.  —  By  this  house  the  "Vico 
Storto  diverges  to  the  right  (see  below).  On  the  left  are  several 
unexoavated  lanes. 

If  we  follow  the  Strada  della  Fortuna  for  a  short  distance, 
we  reach  the  broad  Strada  Stabiana  (p.  137),  diverging  to  the 
right,    the  N.   extension  of  which  towards  the  Vesuvius  Gate  is 


House  of  M.  Lucretius.     POMPEII.  9.  Route.      J  37 

now  being  exoavated.  At  the  corner  to  the  left  are  a  Fountain 
and  an  Altar  of  the  Lares;  adjacent  is  the  pillar  of  an  Ague- 
duct.  Of  the  recently  excavated  houses  the  following  are  no- 
ticeable:  —  L.  No.  20,  with  a  mutilated  hermes  of  the  arcarius 
(cashier)  Anteros,  after  whom  the  house  has  been  named,  with 
projecting  props  for  the  support  of  wreaths.  The  peristyle  is 
adorned  with  a  fresco  of  Orpheus,  over  life-size,  and  the  rooms 
at  the  back  contain  other  paintings.  —  No.  22,  a  Fullonica,  or 
fuller's  workshop.  The  atrium  contains  a  handsome  impluvium, 
in  which  the  bronze  summit  of  the  fountain  is  still  preserved, 
and  several  handsome  table-supports.  In  the  room  at  the  back 
are  three  basins  (comp.  p.  135),  and  on  the  wall  appropriate 
paintings. 

The  prolongation  of  the  Strada  della  Fortuna ,  beyond  the 
Strada  Stabiana,  is  called  the  Strada  di  Nolo,  and  leads  in  5  min. 
to  the  gate  of  that  name ,  which  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  in 
the  town.  The  fronts  only  of  the  houses  here  have  as  yet  been 
excavated. 

We  retrace  our  steps  through  the  Strada  della  Fortuna  and 
enter  the  already  mentioned  Vico  Storto,  which  owes  its  name 
to  its  curve.  On  the  left,  No.  22,  is  a  bake-house  with  four 
mills.  In  the  whole  of  this  neighbourhood,  and  particularly  in 
the  Street  of  the  Augustales,  there  were  numerous  bakers.  In 
No.   25,   at  the  back,   a  large  animal  piece. 

The  Vico  Storto  leads  to  the  Street  of  the  Augustales, 
of  which  that  part  leading  to  the  Forum,  to  the  right,  presents 
no  object  of  interest.  We  turn  to  the  left,  where  this  street, 
as  well  as  the  whole  of  this  quarter,   has  been  lately   excavated. 

At  the  corner  to  the  right  is  No.  1  ,  a  Soap  Manufactory, 
as  has  been  inferred  from  the  articles  found,  with  a  large  stove. 
L.  No.  45.  House  of  the  Bear  (PI.  85),  named  from  the  mosaic 
on  the  threshold ,  with  the  greeting  'Have';  at  the  back  is  a 
fountain  with  mosaic. 

Farther  on,  the  Strada  del  Lupanare  (p.  139)  diverges  to 
the  right. 

R.  No.  40,  House  of  the  Dolphin  (PL  88),  named  from  the 
mosaic  by  the  door,  or  House  of  Mars  and  Venus  from  a  paint- 
ing to  the  right  in  the  atrium.  Spacious  peristyle  with  fourteen 
columns.  This  house  has  a  cellar.  Nos.  37,  36,  Bake-house ;  at 
the  back  a  number  of  corn-mills,  and  an  oven  in  which  eighty- 
one  loaves  were  found. 

We  now  reach  the  Strada  di  Stabia,  and  follow  it  to  the  left. 
No.  5,  immediately  to  the  right,  *  House  of  Marcus  Lucre- 
tius (PI.  56),  once  richly  fitted  up,  though  with  questionable 
taste  (shown  at  the  request  of  the  visitor).  Behind  the  atrium 
is    a    small    *garden,    laid    out   in  terraces,    with  a  fountain    and 


138      Routed.  POMPEII.    Strada  delV  Abbondanza. 

a  number  of  marble  figures.  The  best  of  the  paintings  are 
preserved  at  Naples.  This  is  one  of  the  few  houses  in  Pompeii 
of  which  the  proprietor's  name  is  known.  The  information  was 
afforded  by  a  letter  found  with  the  painted  address :  M.  Lucre- 
tio  Flam.  Martis  deourioni   Pompei. 

Returning ,  and  descending  the  Stabian  Street  towards  the 
gate,  we  reach  (1.)  No.  5,  with  frescoes  in  the  tablinum  repre- 
senting Pietas  and  the  forsaken  Ariadne;  then  (r.)  No.  25, 
Casa  dei  Principi  di  Russia,  with  a  handsome  marble  table  in 
the  atrium.  A  staircase  leads  from  the  peristyle  to  the  house  of 
Siricus  (p.   139). 

Farther  on,  to  the  right,  are  the  Thermae  (see  below)  at  the 
corner  of  the  Strada  dell'  Abbondanza  (from  which  they  are 
entered).  This  broad  street  ascends  from  the  Stabian  Street 
(79  it.  above  the  sea-level)  to  the  Forum.  On  the  other  side, 
towards  the  Porta  del  Sarno ,  it  is  only  excavated  as  far  as  the 
next  street  {Vico  di  Tesmo,  see  below).  At  the  corner  here  is  the 
buttress  of  an  aqueduct ,  leaden  pipes  from  which  are  observed 
on  the  pavement  farther  on. 

On  the  left,  in  the  direction  of  the  .Sarno  Gate,  No.  20,  is 
the  Casa  dei  Diadumeni  (PI.  90) ,  or  of  Epidius  Rufus ,  with 
a  small  platform  in  front  of  the  facade,  and  a  handsome  atrium 
with  fourteen  columns.  Within  it  is  a  lararium  on  the  right,  with 
the  inscription,  'Oenio  Marci  nostri  et  Laribus  duo  Diadumeni 
liberti'.  At  the  back  is  a  garden,  to  the  left  of  which  is  the 
vaulted  kitchen.  —  The  atrium  of  the  next  house  on  the  left. 
No.  22 ,  contains  a  well  preserved  lararium ,  with  paintings  at 
the  back,  nearly  obliterated.  These  houses  have  been  brought  to 
light  since  1866.  The  excavations  have  been  carried  as  far  as 
the  Casino  deli  Aquila ,  a  farm-house ,  but  not  yet  completed 
in  the  direction  of  the  old  Porta  Stabiana  to  the  S.,  lower  down. 
—  Ascending  the  platform  in  a  straight  direction  ,  we  reach  a 
cart-road  leading  to  the  Amphitheatre  (see  p.  142). 

The  Vico  di  Tesmo  affords  a  good  example  of  the  monotonous 
character  of  the  more  remote  streets.  At  the  corner  we  observe 
the  Tannery  (PI.  92),  and  also  an  atrium  (PI.  91),  the  com- 
pluvium  of  which  was  covered  with  an  iron  grating  (restored ) 
as  a  protection  against  thieves. 

We  now  return  and  continue  to  ascend  the  Strada  dell'  Ab- 
bondanza towards  the  Forum  ,  near  which  this  handsome  street, 
with  its  numerous  shops,  was  closed  by  means  of  stone  pillars, 
in  order  to  exclude  waggons. 

L.  No.  15,  *House  of  Cornelius  Rufus  (PI.  72).  The  atrium 
contains  two  handsome  pedestals  for  tables,  and  a  bust  with  the 
inscription.  'C.  Cornelio  Rufo'.  The  peristyle  has  eighteen  col- 
umns. 

In   the   Strada  dell'  Abbondanza,    No.   8  on   the   right,     is  the 


Stabian  Thermae.  POMPEII.  9.  Route.      139 

principal  entrance  to  the  *Stabian  Thermee  (PL  69),  so  called 
to  distinguish  them  from  the  Thermae  at  the  back  of  the  Forum. 
They  are  larger  and  older  than  the  latter,  and  date  from  the 
Oscan  period ,  hut  were  afterwards  extended  and  redecorated. 
We  enter  a  spacious  court ,  flanked  by  pillars  on  two  sides, 
which  was  used  for  palsestric  exercises.  On  the  wall  on  the  left 
are  stucco  ornaments  in  relief.  Two  rooms  situated  here  were 
perhaps  intended  for  undressing.  Then  a  basin  for  cold  baths, 
16  paces  long,  9  paces  broad,  5  ft.  deep,  and  another  vaulted 
room.  In  the  wing  opposite,  which  has  a  side  entrance  from  the 
street ,  are  four  baths  for  single  bathers  on  the  left.  —  In  the 
upper  part  of  the  wing  to  the  right  is  the  Women's  Bath.  The 
door  above  leads  into  a  vestibule ,  into  which  the  dressing-room 
opens  on  the  left;  from  the  street  are  two  separate  entrances. 
Round  the  vaulted  hall  are  niches  for  clothes ;  in  the  corner  is 
a  basin  enclosed  by  masonry.  Adjacent  is  the  warm  bath ,  a 
vaulted  saloon  with  double  walls.  Then  the  sudatory,  the  vaulting 
of  which  has  fallen  in ;  at  one  end  is  a  marble  basin,  at  the 
other  a  fountain  for  cold  water;  the  walls  are  double.  Behind 
these  chambers  were  the  stoves.  —  The  Men's  Bath,  to  the  right 
near  the  entrance ,  is  similar.  The  first  door  on  the  left  leads 
from  the  large  dressing-room  to  the  cold,  the  second  to  the  warm 
bath ;  beyond  is  the  sudatory.  The  two  latter  are  much  dilapi- 
dated. 

L.  No.  4,  House  of  Holconius  (PL  70),  with  handsome  peri- 
style, rich  in  paintings,  but  faded.  In  the  cecus  (r.)  Ariadne 
and  Bacchus;  (1.)  Hermaphrodite;  in  the  room  to  the  right.  Rape 
of  Europa ;  in  the  room  to  the  left ,  Achilles  in  Scyrus,  and 
Judgment  of  Paris. 

A  few  paces  farther  the  Theatre  Street  (p.  140)  diverges  to 
the  left,   while  we  follow  the  Strada  del  Lupanare  to  the  right. 

R.  No.  47  ,  *House  of  Siricus  (PL  71).  On  the  threshold 
the  inscription ,  'Salve  lucrufmf ;  to  the  same  proprietor  be- 
longed the  large  adjacent  bake-house,  No.  46.  To  the  left  of  the 
atrium  is  a  room  with  good  paintings  :  (1. )  Neptune  and  Apollo 
helping  to  build  the  walls  of  Troy ;  opposite,  *Drunken  Hercules  ; 
(r.)  *  Vulcan  presenting  Thetis  with  weapons  for  Achilles.  The 
columns  of  the   peristyle   are  painted  green. 

To  the  left  on  the  opposite  wall  are  large  snakes,  with  the  in- 
scription:   iOtiosis  locus  hie  non  est,   discede  morator. 

To  the  left  at  the  corner  of  the  second  lane,  the  Vicolo  del 
Balcone  Pensile,  is  No.  18,  the  Lupanare  (PL  83;  closed);  at 
the  sides  five  sleeping-places;  in  front,  the  seat  of  the  hostess. 
The  bad  character  of  the  house  is  sufficiently  indicated  by  the 
paintings  and  inscriptions.  A  separate  entrance  from  the  street 
ascended  direct  to  the  upper  floor. 

We  now  follow  the  Vicolo  del  Balcone  Pensile  to  the  left. 


140      Route  V.  POMPEII.  Forum  Triangulare. 

R.   No.   26.   with  line  frescoes  at  the  hack,   to  the  left. 

R.  No.  28,  *House  with  the  Balcony  (PI.  84;  Casa  del  Bal- 
earic Pensile).  The  atrium  contains  a  fountain  with  a  marble  figure 
on  the  right.  Three  rooms  of  the  upper  floor  have  been  pre- 
served by  carefully  replacing  the  charred  woodwork  by  new  beams 
—  a  laborious  and  costly  undertaking.  The  projecting  wooden 
structure  is  similar  to  that  frequently  seen  in  old  continental 
towns ,  and  appears  to  have  been  common  in  Pompeii. 

The  Vicolo  del  Ealcone  Pensile  terminates  in  the  Vicolo  di 
Evmachia,  which  extends  behind  the  buildings  of  the  Forum. 
This  street  leads  us  to  the  left  towards  the  Str.  dell'  Abbondanza. 

In  this  Vicolo,  on  the  left,  No.  3,  House  of  the  New  Chase, 
with  well  preserved  frescoes;  in  the  tablinum  (r.)  Bacchus  find- 
ing the  sleeping  Ariadne  ;  in  the  peristyle  (1.)  animal  pieces. 

At  the  corner  of  the  Strada  dell'  Abbondanza,  a  fountain 
with  head  and  cornucopia  of  Abundantia,  whence  the  name  of  the 
street.  On  the  wall  of  the  Chalcidicum  public  advertisements 
used  to  be  painted  (album),   but  little  of  them  now  remains. 

On  the  opposite  side,  No.  8,  House  of  the  Boar  Hunt  (PI.  67"), 
named  from  the  mosaic  in  the  passage,  a  Boar  attacked  by  two  dogs. 
The  peristyle  has  sixteen  Ionic  columns.  The  border  of  the 
large  mosaic  in  the  atrium  represents  an  ancient  town-wall. 

On  the  wall  next  the  Vicolo  (PI.  68)  are  represented  the 
twelve  gods  with  their  attributes,   almost  effaced. 

We  continue  to  descend ,  and  enter  the  Theatre-Street  to 
the  right,  leading  to  the  Forum  Triangulare.  Near  the  latter  is 
a  porticus  with  six  Ionic  columns.  The  street  to  the  left,  which 
leads  to  the  Stabian  Street,  is  the  Street  of  Isis  (p.  142),  which 
should  now  be  visited  before  the  theatres  by  those  who  purpose 
omitting  the  amphitheatre. 

This  S.  quarter  is  oldest  in  the  town,  and  has  preserved  many 
of  its  characteristics. 

The  so-called  Forum  Triangulare  (PI.  75)  is  bounded  on  three 
sides  by  a  portions  of  a  hundred  columns  of  the  Doric  order, 
destined  chiefly  for  the  use  of  the  frequenters  of  the  theatre. 
On  the  N.  side  is  a  pedestal  for  a  statue,  with  relative  inscription. 
The  side  next  the  sea  was  open.  On  a  basement  here,  approach- 
ed by  five  steps,  stood  a  *Temple  in  the  ancient  Greek  style 
(styled,  without  the  slightest  foundation,  a  Temple  of  Hercules), 
101  ft.  in  length  and  67  ft.  in  breadth.  It  was  surrounded  by  col- 
umns, eight  being  in  front,  and  in  the  centre  was  the  shrine. 
The  whole  building  was  in  the  ancient  Doric  order  of  about  the 
6th  cent.  B.C.  A  few  capitals  and  the  fragment  of  a  column  are 
now  the  sole  remains  of  this  once  imposing  structure.  It  was 
doubtless  overthrown  by  the  earthquake  of  63;  and,  if  so,  the 
inhabitants  of  the  stuccoed  buildings  of  the  imperial  age  would 
never    dream    of   restoring    it   in  its  massive  and  simple  dignity. 


Great  Theatre.  POMPEII.  9.  Route.      1.41 

The  enclosed  space  in  front  of  the  temple  was  perhaps  used 
for  the  slaughter  of  the  victims.    To  the  left  of  it  are  three  altars. 

Beyond  the  temple,  No.  32,  is  a  *Bidental  (PI.  81),  a  unique 
relic  of  its  kind.  It  consists  of  the  large  embouchure  of  a  foun- 
tain (puteal),  enclosing  a  spot  struck  by  lightning,  such  places 
being  regarded  as  sacred,  and  calling  for  atonement.  Around  it 
was  erected  a  small ,  circular  temple,  12  ft.  in  diameter ,  with 
eight  Doric  columns. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  temple  is  a  semicircular  seat,  where 
there  was  once  a  sun-dial,   now  much  decayed. 

Below  the  Theatre  are  the  so-called  Soldiers'  or  Gladiators' 
Barracks  (to  which  a  flight  of  steps  descends  from  the  Forum 
Triangulare),  the  real  object  of  which  is  not  ascertained.  The 
court  is  surrounded  by  a  porticus  of  seventy-four  columns,  length 
151  ft.  ,  breadth  125  ft.  Around  it  are  a  number  of  detached 
cells.  The  edifice  had  a  second  floor ,  as  the  imitation  on  the 
>S.  side  shows,  which  contained  the  custodians' room  and  a  small 
chapel.  In  a  chamber  used  as  a  prison  were  found  three  skeletons 
and  iron  stocks  for  the  feet.  Sixty-three  bodies  in  all  were  dis- 
covered in  this  building. 

Adjoining  the  Forum  Triangulare  is  the  *Great  Theatre 
(PI.  77),  the  walls  of  which  protruded  from  the  rubbish  even  be- 
fore its  discovery.  It  is  situated  on  rising  ground,  and  is  a 
building  of  very  early  origin.  About  the  beginning  of  the  Christian 
era  it  was  restored  by  the  architect  M.  Artorius,  at  the  expense 
of  M.  Holconius  Rufus  and  M.  Holconius  C'eler.  After  the  earth- 
quake of  63  it  underwent  repair,  hut  the  restoration  was  far 
from  complete  at  the  time  of  the  final  catastrophe.  The  space 
for  the  spectators  consists  of  three  ranks  (ima,  media,  and  summa 
cavea) ;  the  first  contains  four  tiers  for  the  chairs  of  persons  of 
rank,  the  second  twenty,  and  the  third  four.  Corridors  and  stair- 
cases led  to  the  different  parts  of  the  building.  It  is  estimated 
that  5000  spectators  could  be  accommodated.  Behind  the  orchestra 
is  the  long  and  narrow  stage,  in  front  of  which  is  an  opening  in 
the  ground  for  the  rising  and  falling  of  the  curtain.  The  poste- 
rior wall  of  the  stage,  once  adorned  with  statues,  is  provided  with 
three  doors,  according  to  the  rules  of  the  ancient  drama.  Behind 
these  was  the  dressing-room.  On  the  summit  of  the  outer  wall 
are  seen  the  stone  rings  for  the  poles  which  supported  an  awning 
in  sunny  weather.  Behind  the  theatre  is  a  square  reservoir ,  the 
water  of  which  was  used  in  hot  weather  for  refreshing  the  specta- 
tors by  means  of  a  slight  sprinkling. 

The  adjacent  *Small  Theatre  (PI.  78)  is  better  preserved 
than  the  great.  An  inscription  records  that  it  was  roofed  in 
(thetitrum  tectum,  probably  a  wooden  roof).  Number  of  specta- 
tors 1500.  The  seats  are  cut  out  in  such  a  way  that  the  feet 
of  the  spectator  did  not  inconvenience  the  person   sitting  on  the 


1-12      Route  V.  P0MPKJ1.  Amphitheatre. 

tier  below  hiin.  The  building  dates  from  about  B.C.  7f>.  The 
marble  pavement  of  the  orchestra  was,  according  to  an  inscription, 
presented  by  M.   Olconius,   a  duumvir. 

From  the  Small  Theatre  we  emerge  on  the  Stabian  Street, 
which  we  re-ascend.  On  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  the  Street  of 
Isis,  No.  25  *Temple  of  iEsculapius  (PI.  79),  the  smallest  in 
Pompeii,  68  ft.  long,  22'/2  ft.  broad.  The  anterior  court  contains 
an  archaic  altar  of  tufa,  recalling  the  sarcophagus  of  Scipio  in  the 
Vatican.  The  cella  is  approached  by  nine  steps.  The  name  of 
the  temple  is  merely  conjectural. 

Nearly  opposite  the  temple  is  No.  5 ,  the  Casa  del  Citarista 
(PI.  8(1),  named  after  the  Apollo  of  Pasiteles  found  here  (p.  71). 
This  is  one  of  the  largest  houses  at  Pompeii ,  comprising  two 
atria  and  three  peristyles. 

We  now  enter  the  Street  of  Isis  to  the  left. 

Here,  on  the  left,  No.  28,  rises  the  *Temple  of  Isis  (PI.  73), 
which,  as  the  copy  of  the  inscription  over  the  entrance  informs 
us,  was  restored  after  the  earthquake  of  63  by  N.  Popidius  Cel- 
sinus ,  a  boy  six  years  of  age ,  at  his  own  expense ,  who  in 
recognition  of  this  service  was  received  into  the  rank  of  the 
decuriones.  Length  98  ft.,  width  60  ft.  The  court  is  surrounded 
by  a  porticus ;  between  the  columns  are  several  altars,  and  an 
ancient  aperture  for  the  reception  of  the  remains  of  sacrifices, 
now  used  as  an  air-shaft  of  the  Sarno  tunnel.  On  the  left  is  a 
?mall  shrine,  the  so-called  Purgatorium,  in  which  ablutions  were 
performed ;  a  staircase  here  descended  to  a  well ;  the  walls  are 
tastefully  adorned  with  reliefs  in  stucco.  Within  the  temple 
itself  was  found  the  statuette  of  Isis,  now  in  the  museum  (p.  67). 
The  chambers  adjoining  the  wall  on  the  left  were  occupied  by  the 
priests.  Several  bodies  were  found  here;  and  on  the  fire-place 
were  remains  of  food. 

The  next  door  on  the  left  in  the  Street  of  Isis,  No.  29,  leads 
into  a  court  surrounded  by  columns,  with  a  curious  balustrade  in 
the  centre,  the  object  of  which  is  unascertained.  The  place  was  a 
palaestra  of  the  Oscan  period,   and  was  afterwards  shortened. 

We  return  through  the  Stabian  Street  to  the  Strada  dei  Dia- 
dumeni,  and  proceed  past  the  Casa  dei  Diadumeni  to  the  platform 
mentioned  at  p.  138,  from  the  upper  end  of  which  a  cart-road 
leads  over  the  unexcavated  part  of  the  town  in  8  min.  to  the  last 
important  relic  of  ancient  Pompeii,  the  — 

*  Amphitheatre ,  situated  at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  town,  and 
detac  hedfrom  the  other  ruins.  Outwardly  the  building  looks 
somewhat  insignificant,  as  a  great  part  of  it,  as  high  as  the  second 
story,  was  excavated  in  the  earth  for  the  purpose  of  simplifying 
the  construction.  Pound  the  exterior  runs  an  uncovered  gallery, 
to  which  stairs  ascend  for  the  use  of  the  spectators  in  the  upper 
places.   The  principal  entrance  descends  considerably.  Whole  length 


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CASTELLAMARE.  ID.  Route.      U3 

148,  width  114  yds.  ;  number  of  spectators  20,000.  Three  different 
series  of  seats  are  distinguished,  the  first  with  five,  the  second 
with  twelve,  and  the  third  with  eighteen  tiers ;  above  these  also 
ran  a  gallery.  The  seats  are  cut  out  in  the  same  manner  as  in 
the  small  theatre.  The  building  was  begun  in  B.C.  70,  and  after- 
wards continued  at  intervals.  For  several  decades  before  the  year 
79  the  amphitheatre  had  not  been  used  ,  so  that  the  story  of  the 
people  having  been  surprised  by  the  eruption  while  witnessing  a 
gladiator  combat  here  is  a  pure.  myth. 

The  excavations  of  last  century  led  to  the  discovery  of  other  important 
buildings  near  the  amphitheatre  ,  but  these  owing  to  the  absence  of  any 
system  at  that  period,  were  afterwards  covered  up  again. 

On  leaving  the  Amphitheatre  we  may  return  to  the  railway-station 
in  '/•ihr-!  either  by  the  high  road,  or  by  traversing  the  mounds  of  ashes 
and  passing  part  of  the  town-wall.  Those  who  have  driven  from  Naples 
should  order  the  carriage  to  wait  for  them  at  the  Amphitheatre. 

10.     Castellamare,  Sorrento,  and  Capri. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  100. 

Railway  from  Naples  to  Castellamare,  17  }!.,  in  1  hi\ ;  fares  3  fr.  10, 
2  fr.  lo,  1  fr.  25  c. ;  nine  trains  in  summer,  fewer  in  winter.  —  Carriage 
from  Castellamare  to  Sorrento,  10  31.,  in  l'/2hr. ;  tariff,  see  p.  144.  A 
seat  ('un  posto' ,  l-l'/a  fr.)  may  easily  be  obtained  by  a  single  traveller 
in  one  of  the  numerous  carriages  frequenting  this  road. 

Steamboat  direct  from  Naples  across  the  bay  to  Sorrento,  to  M.  (and 
thence  to  Capri) ,  in  l3/4  hr. ,  daily  during  the  height  of  the  season ;  at 
other  times  on  Mondays  and  Wednesdays,  or  on  Mondays  only.  The  vessel 
starts  from  S.  Lucia  (at  the  foot  of  the  steps,  see  p.  39)  at  8,  8.  30,  or 
9  a.  m. ;  fare  G  fr. ;  return-ticket,  available  for  one  day  only,  10  fr.  (comp. 
p.  151;  office,  Molo  Piccolo  34,  p.  43).  Another  small  steamer  sometimes 
plies  once  a  week  between  Naples  and  Sorrento ,  starting  from  the 
Immacolatella  (p.  43)  on  Saturdays  at  2  m.,  and  leaving  Sorrento  the 
following  Monday  at  6  a.  m.  (particulars  at  the  hotels).  —  Gentlemen 
may  cross  to  Sorrento  by  the  Market  Boat  which  usually  leaves  the  Porta 
di  Massa  by  the  Molo  Piccolo  (PI.  F,  5)  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and 
Saturday  at  2  p.  m.,  returning  from  Sorrento  the  following  mornings  at 
6  a.  m. :  passage  about  3  hrs.;  fare  1  fr. :  civil  people. 

Those  whose  time  is  limited  should  make  little  stay  at  Castellaiiiari'. 
in  order  to  arrive  at  Sorrento  early  enough  for  an  excursion  to  the  Deserlo 
or  other  interesting  point  in  the  environs.  The  night  should  be  spent  at 
Sorrento,  and  Capri  visited  next  day ;  Naples  may  then  be  regained  on  the 
third ,  or ,  if  necessary ,  on  the  evening  of  the  second  day.  —  This  route 
may  also  be  combined  with  the  following,  in  which  case  it  is  better  to 
begin  with  the  latter  (p.  156).  The  steamboat  trip  across  the  Bay  of 
Naples  is  so  beautiful  in  fine  weather  that  it  should  be  made  once  at 
least. 

The  Castellamare  train  follows  the  main  line  to  Salerno  and 
Romagnano  as  far  as  Torre  delV  Annunziata  (see  E.  7),  where  out- 
line diverges  to  the  right.  Skirting  the  coast,  it  crosses  the  Sarno 
(on  the  right  is  the  rocky  islet  of  Revigliano,  with  an  old  castle) ; 
and  in  12  min.  it  reaches  the  Castellamare  station  at  the  E.  end 
of  the  town. 

Castellamare.  Hotels.  S:H6tel  Royal,  in  the  main  street,  near  the 
station ,  D.  5,  B.  H/2  fr.  ;    Antica    Stabia  ,    on    the    quay ,    second    class. 


144      Route  II).  CASTELLAMARE.  From  Naples 

Beautifully  situated  above  the  town,  on  the  road  to  Quisisana,  command- 
ing a  charming  view  of  Vesuvius  and  the  bay:  "Hotel  Quisisana,  on 
the  left;  a  little  beyond  it,  Giian  Brettagna  ,  on  the  right.  Pension  at 
all  these  hotels.  —  Pension  Anglaise  ,  Mme.  Baker ,  Villa  Belvedere ; 
Pension  Allemande,  6  fr.,  Villa  Cotticelli;  both  commanding  fine  views. 
Caffe  deW  Ein'vpti  and  Trattoria  del  Commercio  (with  a  few  rooms;  pen- 
sion), both  in  the  Largo  Principe  Umberto,  which  opens  towards  the  sea, 
and  where  a  band  plays  in  the  evening  1-3  times  a  week  according  to 
the  season. 

Carriages  (comp.  p.  xix).  Drive  in  the  town  with  one  horse  '/«  fr., 
with  two  or  three  horses  1  fr.  —  In  the  suburbs,  not  exceeding  2  kilo- 
metres (l'Ai  M.):  lirst  hour  with  one  horse  1  fr.  20,  with  two  or  three 
horses  2  fr. ;  each  additional  half-hour  60  c.  nr  1  fr.  —  To  Quisisana  or 
Pnzzano  IV2  or  3  fr. ;  there  and  back  with  halt  of  2  hrs.  2V2  or  5  fr. ;  to 
Vico  Equense  I1/4  or  21/"  fr. ;  to  Meta  2>/2  or  4V4  fr. ;  to  Sorrento  3  or 
u  fr. ;  to  Torre  Annunziata  l'/s  or  3  fr. ;  to  Pompeii  l'/4  or  3  fr. ;  to  Naples 
6  or  12  fr.  —  In  all  these  last  cases  the  traveller  may  keep  the  carriage 
for  3  hrs.,  after  which  the  return-fare  is  the  same  as  for  the  single  journey. 
—  Carriages  with  one  doiikeii  are  still  cheaper  conveyances,  but  are 
unsuitable  for  more  than  one  person;  if  used  for  two  persons  the  driver 
h;is  to  walk  or  run  by  the  side  of  the  vehicle. 

Donkeys,  very  good,  generally  1  fr.  per  hour,  or  4-5  fr.  per  day. 
Boat  to  Capri  in  about  5  hours,  30  fr. 

Castellamare  ,  a  busy  trailing  and  Ashing  town  with  26,400 
inhab.,  lies  in  the  E.  angle  of  the  Bay  of  Naples,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  peninsula  of  Sorrento  ,  at  the  base  and  on  the  slope  of  the 
Monte  S.  Angelo.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Stabiae,  which 
was  destroyed  in  A.D.  79,  at  the  same  time  as  Pompeii,  and 
thence  derives  its  official  name  of  Castellamare  di  Stabiu.  It  was 
here  that  the  elder  Pliny  perished  while  observing  the  eruption 
(p.  113).  Excavations  of  the  ruins  of  Stabis ,  which  lay  to  the 
left,  by  the  entrance  to  the  town,  towards  the  heights,  have  not 
been  undertaken  since  174T). 

The  town  extends  along  the  coast  for  upwards  of  1  M.,  consist- 
ing of  one  main  street  and  a  second  running  parallel  with  it.  About 
Y3  M.  from  the  station  we  reach  the  Largo  Principe  Umberto,  a 
small  pia/.za  embellished  with  flower-beds  and  trees ,  where  the 
Caffe  Europa  is  situated.  Farther  on  we  come  to  the  animated 
Harbour,  which  is  protected  by  a  molo.  Adjoining  it  is  an  Arsenal 
with  a  dockyard.  —  On  the  hill  to  the  S.  of  the  town  are  the  ruins 
of  the  Castle  to  which  the  town  owes  its  name.  It  was  built  in  the 
13th  cent,  by  Emp.  Frederick  II.  and  strengthened  with  towers 
and  walls  by  Charles  I.  of  Anjou. 

Castellamare  is  a  favourite  summer  resort  of  the  Neapolitans. 
The  attractions  are  sea-baths,  mineral  waters  (impregnated  with 
sulphur  and  carbonic  acid  gas),  beautiful  shady  walks,  and  a  cool 
northern  aspect. 

Turning  to  the  S.  by  the  Largo  Principe  Umberto,  and  ascend- 
ing the  Saiita  Caporiva  (inclining  to  the  right  after  5  min.J,  we 
pass  the  Hotel  (Juisisana  and  reach  a  winding  road,  shaded  by  fine 
chestnut-trees  higher  up.  which  leads  to  the  royal  — 

Villa  Quisisana  ( 1  M.).  The  chateau  (Casino)  occupies  the 
site  of  a  house  |  'rasa  sana  )   erected   here  by  Charles  II.    of  Anjou 


to  Sorrento.  MONTE  ,S.  ANGELO.  10.  Route.    145 

about  1300,  which  was  occupied  by  King  Ladislaus  ami  his  sister 
Johanna  II.  while  the  plague  raged  at  Naples.  In  1820  Ferdi- 
nand I.  of  Bourbon  restored  the  building  and  gave  it  its  present 
name  ('one  recovers  health  here'").  Permesso  for  the  chateau  and 
garden,  see  p.  40;  but  there  is  little  to  see  except  the  charming 
view  from  the  terrace  (1  fr. ;  gardener  '/2  fr0- 

The  *Bosco  di  Quisisana,  or  park  belonging  to  the  villa,  which 
is  open  to  the  public,  affords  delightful  walks.  Ascending  from  the 
town,  we  pass  through  a  gate  to  the  right,  opposite  the  entrance  to 
the  'R.  Villa  di  Quisisana',  turn  to  the  left  at  the  first  bifurcation 
( while  the  road  in  a  straight  direction  goes  to  Puzzano,  see  below), 
and  then  pass  behind  the  garden  of  the  villa ,  from  which  there  is 
another  entrance  to  the  park.  —  Above  ,  to  the  left ,  rises  the 
Monte  Coppola ,  which  may  be  ascended  by  beautiful  wood-walks, 
winding  upwards  and  crossing  several  ravines ,  and  commanding 
admirable  views  of  the  bay  and  Vesuvius  (there  and  back  2- 
21  Ai  hrs. ;  donkeys  admitted  to  the  park).  —  The  traveller  may 
return  from  Quisisana  to  Castellamare  by  Puzzano ,  a  monastery 
founded  by  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova  (l/2  hr.  longer  ;   beautiful  views). 

Excursions  may  be  also  be  made  to  (i>/2  hr.)  Gragnano  to  the  E., 
where  an  excellent  red  wine  is  produced  (osteria  without  a  sign,  second 
house  in  the  village,  on  the  left),  and  to  Lettere  (3/4  hr.  farther) ,  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  slope  of  the  mountains  which  were  once  named 
Mantes  Lactarii,  with  a  ruined  castle  and  magnificent  prospect.  Lastly 
to  the  summit  of  the  — 

+Monte  Sant'  Angelo,  the  ancient  Gaurus ,  5000  ft.  above  the  sea- 
level,  the  highest  point  near  the  bay,  which  commands  a  noble  pro- 
spect, stretching  from  Monte  Circello  far  into  Calabria  and  to  the  Abruz/.i. 
The  mountain  is  clothed  to  the  summit  with  wood,  chiefly  chestnut- 
trees.  Fragments  of  pumice-stone  (rapilli)  from  eruptions  of  Vesuvius 
are  occasionally  observed. 

The  ascent,  which  should  not  be  attempted  without  a  guide,  requires 
4  hrs.  (on  donkey-back  3  hrs. ;  donkey  and  guide  5  fr.).  The  guides  should 
be  expressly  directed  to  conduct  the  traveller  to  the  highest  peak  crowned 
by  the  chapel,  which  commands  an  uninterrupted  panorama.  Otherwise 
they  ascend  another  peak,  with  extensive  deposits  of  snow,  the  view  from 
which  is  partially  intercepted  by  the  higher  summit.  The  path  leads 
through  the  park  of  Quisisana  to  the  mountain  village  of  Piemoule 
(]t|2  hr.),  whence  the  ascent  of  the  Mtc.  S.  Angelo  begins.  The  traveller 
should  start  early,  so  as  to  return  to  Castellamare  before  dusk.  The 
excursion  may  also  be  made  from  Amalfl  or  Sorrento. 

From  Castellamare  to  Amalfl  bv  the  lesser  Monte  Sant1  Angelo,  see 
p.  167. 

The  **Road  from  Castellamare  to  Sorrento  (10  M.  ;  by 
carriage  in  l'/2  nr-  i  tariff,  p.  144)  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
excursions  in  this  delightful  district.  We  pass  below  the  monastery 
of  Puzzano  (see  above)  to  the  Capo  d' Orlando.  The  three  rocks  on 
the  coast  are  called  /  Tre  Fratelli.  We  next  pass  the  small  villages 
of  (?>ll<i  M.)  Vico  and  Equa,  together  called  Vico  Equense  (  Pension 
Anylaise,  Mme.  Dawes),  forming  a  town  with  11,*200  inhab.,  situ- 
ated on  a  rocky  eminence,  the  ancient  Vicus  Mquensis.  Vico  was 
erected  by  Charles  II.  on  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  village,  and  was 
Baedekek.    Italy  III.    6th  Edition.  10 


146      Route  10.  META.  From  duplex 

frequently  visited  by  him.  The  Cathedral  contains  the  tomb  of  the 
celebrated  jurist  Gaetano  Filangieri  (d.  1TSS).  In  the  Villa  Qiusso 
are  several  modern  works  of  art. 

Beyond  Vico  is  a  deep  cutting,  crossed  by  a  bridge.  On  the 
right  we  next  observe  Marina  di  Seiano,  a  village  with  a  hand- 
some campanile,  beyond  which  the  road  ascends  between  vineyards 
and  olive  plantations  on  the  slope  of  the  Punta  di  Scutolo.  After 
having  rounded  this  promontory,  the  road  descends  towards  Meta, 
and  the  view  changes.  Before  us  stretches  the  famous  Piano  di 
Sorrento,  a  plain  sheltered  by  the  surrounding  mountains,  and 
intersected  by  numerous  ravines,  remarkable  for  its  salubrity  and 
its  luxuriant  vegetation.  Orange  and  olive  groves,  mulberry-trees, 
pomegranates,  figs,  and  aloes  are  beautifully  intermingled.  This 
has  been  a  favourite  retreat  of  the  noble  and  the  wealthy  from  a 
very  early  period.  Augustus,  M.  Agrippa,  Antoninus  Pius,  and 
others  frequently  resided  here,  and  at  the  present  day  visitors  of 
all  nationalities  are  met  with.  The  space  is  limited,  and  the 
villages  are  neither  large  nor  handsome,  but  the  district  generally 
is  pervaded  with  an  air  of  peaceful  enjoyment. 

Meta  (*Trattoria  della  Villa  di  Sorrento)  is  a  town  possessing 
two  small  harbours.  The  modern  church  of  the  Madonna  del  Lauro, 
on  the  high  road,  occupies  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Minerva.  The 
Ponte  Maggiore  leads  across  the  deep  ravine  of  Meta.  We  next 
reach  Carotto  ,  a  large  village,  extending  in  nearly  a  straight  line 
from  the  hills  on  the  left  to  the  Marina  di  Vazzano  on  the  right. 
Then  Pozzopiano,  surrounded  by  beautiful  orange  gardens ,  and 
lastly  Sunt'  Agnello,  '/4  M-  from  Sorrento  (*Albergo  della  Cocumella, 
on  the  quay,  with  beautiful  view,  pension  7  fr.").  The  road  then 
passes  the  (1.)  Villa  Guarraeino,  now  Hotel  Bellevue,  and  (jr.)  the 
Villa  Kotonda  ^pension,  see  below),  traverses  the  long  suburb,  and 
soon  reaches  the  Piazza  of  Sorrento. 

Sorrento.  Hotels.  ::La  Sikena  and  ::Albekgo  del  Tasso,  between 
the  small  and  the  large  Marina,  situated  on  an  abrupt  rock  rising  from 
the  sea,  and  "Bellevue  de  Sorrento  (mentioned  above),  all  belonging  to 
the  Fratelli  Garghtlo ;  charges  as  at  the  lirst  class  hotels  at  Naples.  'Villa 
Nakdi  and  Hotel  Tramontane,  similarly  situated  to  the  first  two,  also 
with  high  charges.  Vittoria  (formerly  Villa  Uizpoli),  three  houses  above 
the  small  Marina,  entered  from  the  market-place,  pension  10  fr. \  a  little 
more  to  the  E.  of  the  small  Marina,  Gran  Bketagna  (formerly  #.  tieveriito); 
both  belonging  to  the  brothers  Fiorenlino,  proprietors  of  the  Hotel  de  la  Ville 
at  Naples,  with  several  dependencies:  R.  from  li'/a,  L-  and  A.  l'/2>  B.  I1/-.', 
I>.  4,  bath  '/2,  pension  9  fr.  —  In  the  same  situation,  Ckoce  di  Malta, 
kept  by  Mine.  Lawrence,  with  dependencies,  well  spoken  of.  All  these 
hotels,  situated  in  gardens,  have  private  stairs  descending  to  the  sea  and 
small  bathing-establishments  (also  warm  baths),  and  command  magnilieent 
views  of  the  bay.  Previous  enquiry  as  to  charges  had  better  be  made; 
persons  making  a  prolonged  stay  should  stipulate  for  'pension1  at  a  re- 
duced rate.  A  room  towards  the  N.  with  a  balcony  and  unimpeded  view 
should  be  obtained  if  possible.  Then,  above  the  town,  on  the  side  of  the 
gorge,  Hotel  du  Clou,  or  i/Angleterre.  To  the  K.  of  the  town,  Pen- 
sion Anoi.aisk  della  Rotunda  (  Villa  Ilt/hj/tariu),  7-8  fr.  per  day,  also  for 
occasional  travellers.         The  locioi.l.is  of  the   K.  suburb,  in    the  direction 


to  Sorrento..  SORRENTO.  10.  Route.      147 

of  Jleta,  are  unpretending :    Rosa  Maora  ;    opposite  to  it,  Locanda  deli.a 
Campagna  (rooms  at  both). 

Whole  villas  and  furnished  apartments  may  also  he  procured  for  a 
prolonged  stay.     (Information  at  the  larger  hotels.) 

''Trattoria  delta  Villa  di  Sorrento,  in  the  E.  suburb,  on  the  road  to 
Jleta. 

Two  Cafe's  in  the  Piazza.  In  the  Piazza  is  also  the  Circolo  di  Sor- 
rento, a  club  with  reading-room,  etc.,  to  which  strangers  are  admitted 
gratis  for  a  week  (tickets  at  the  hotels),  per  month  5  fr. 

Sea-Baths  on  the  Piccola  Marina,  3/4  M.  distant,  l/z  fr.  —  Phtsioian, 
Dr.  L.  Galano  (enquire  at  the  Farmacia  Griffa,  Corso  Duomo). 

Boats,  Carriages,  and  Donkeys  may  be  hired  at  the  hotels  at  fixed 
charges,  but  these  rates  may  generally  be  reduced  by  treating  directly 
with  the  boatmen  and  drivers.  Fees  extra.  Boats  (mostly  at  the  Piccola 
Marina)  I-IV2  fr.  per  hour;  to  Capri  with  2  rowers  8,  3-4  rowers  12,  5-8 
rowers  16  fr. ;  to  Castellamare  about  the  same.  Donkeys  and  carriages  in 
the  piazza :  donkey  generally  1  fr.  per  hour ;  for  excursions  of  2-3  hrs. 
2-2'|2  fr.,  and  trifling  fee  to  attendant;  to  Scaricatojo  (p.  167)  2-3  fr.  and 
fee.  Carriage  to  Massa  and  back ,  with  one  horse  2-3 ,  with  two  horses 
3-4  fr. ;  to  Castellamare,  p.  144. 

Silk  Wares  (in  imitation  of  the  Roman),  Inlaid  Wood  (^tarsia1),  and 
Wood  Carving,  are  good  and  cheap  at  Sorrento.  The  tarsia  work  has 
lately  become  one  of  the  staple  products  of  the  place,  employing  no  fewer 
than  500  workmen.  The  quantity  exported  is  valued  at  150,000  fr.  per 
annum.  The  chief  depots  of  these  articles,  which  are  well  adapted  for 
souvenirs  and  presents,  are  kept  by  Luigi  Gargiulo,  in  the  Corso  Princ. 
Umberto;  Michel  Qrandville ,  Strada  del  Tasso :  Gins.  Gargiulo  <C-  Co.,  in 
the  same  street.    The  oldest  firm  of  silk-mercers  is   Casola,  in  the  Piazza. 

Sorrento,  the  ancient  Surrentum,  a  small  town  with  7200  inhab., 
and  the  residence  of  a  bishop,  stands  on  rocks  rising  precipitously 
from  the  sea,  and  is  enclosed  on  the  other  sides  by  deep  ravines 
which  popular  superstition  has  peopled  with  dwarfs  (monacelli). 
The  E.  ravine,  by  which  the  traveller  arriving  from  Meta  crosses 
from  the  suburb  to  the  Piazza,  terminates  in  the  Piccola  Marina, 
or  small  harbour.  The  W.  ravine  opens  into  the  Marina  Orande, 
or  large  harbour,  where  there  are  numerous  fishing-boats  and  a 
quay  for  larger  vessels.  The  walls  and  towers  of  Sorrento  have 
long  since  fallen  to  decay ;  and  nothing  remains  of  the  Roman 
Surrentum  except  a  few  fragments  and  substructions,  which  have 
been  dignified  with  such  names  as  the  'Temple  of  Neptune', 
'Amphitheatre',  and  'Villa  of  Pollius  Felix'.  At  the  entrance  to 
the  cathedral  (about  5  min.  walk  from  the  market-place,  by  a 
chapel  on  the  left)  are  several  ancient  bas-reliefs  and  inscriptions. 

Torquato  Tasso,  the  poet  (b.  1544,  d.  at  Rome  1595)  was  a 
native  of  Sorrento.  The  house  in  which  he  was  born,  together  with 
the  rock  on  which  it  stood,  has  been  swallowed  up  by  the  encroach- 
ing sea,  but  its  ruins  are  said  to  be  visible  beneath  the  clear  azure 
flood  below  the  Albergo  del  Tasso.  The  residence  of  his  attached 
sister  Cornelia,  however,  is  still  pointed  out  (Pal.  Sersale,  Strada 
S.  Nicola),  where,  after  a  glorious  but  chequered  career,  he  was 
received  by  her,  disguised  as  a  shepherd,  in  159*2.  A  marble  statue 
of  the  poet  has  recently  been  erected  in  the  Piazza. 

Sorrento  is  admirably  adapted  for  a  summer  residence  on 
account  of  its  cool  northern  aspect.     It  is  iliiefly  frequented  during 

10* 


MS    Route  10.  SORRENTO.  Road  to  M,i»m. 

the  bathing -season.  Visitors  generally  bathe  in  the  morning, 
devote  the  hot  part  of  the  day  to  the  'dolce- far- niente',  make 
short  excursions  in  the  beautiful  environs  late  in  the  afternoon,  and 
after  sunset  lounge  in  the  Piazza. 

As  most  of  the  neighbouring  roads  run  between  high  garden 
walls,  and  are  very  dusty  in  summer,  there  is  a  great  lack  of  walks. 
The  most  popular  is  the  Massa  Road  (see  below),  which  is  frequent- 
ed in  the  evening  by  numerous  carriages  ,  riders ,  and  walkers. 
The  traveller  is  also  recommended  to  visit  some  of  the  villas,  most 
of  which  command  beautiful  views:  thus,  Villa  Correale  or  La 
Rota,  Villa  Majo,  and  Villa  Masxa,  all  on  the  coast,  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  town.  (Application  is  made  to  the  porters,  1/2  lr-  i  many  of 
the  villas  are  to  let.) 

Kxcursions  by  Boat  are  very  pleasant.  Thus  (there  and  back 
in  iy2-2hrs.,  with  one  rower  2  fr.)  to  Capo  di  Sorrento ,  at  the 
W  end  of  the  bay,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Punta  di  Scutolo  (p.  146), 
passing  between  cliffs  where  remains  of  Roman  masonry,  baths, 
and  a  so-called  temple  of  Hercules  are  visible.  The  traveller  should 
not  omit  to  row  into  the  large  ancient  piscina ,  now  called  Bagno 
della  Regina  Oiovanna.  A  trip  by  boat  to  Meta  (p.  146),  where 
there  are  several  fine  grottoes  in  the  lofty  cliffs  of  the  coast  (il  Pe- 
coriello ,  la  Piccola  Azzurra  ,  etc.),  may  be  made  in  the  same 
time  and  at  the  same  cost. 

The  **Road  to  Massa  (3^4  M.),  like  that  from  Castellamare, 
of  which  it  is  a  continuation,  commands  a  series  of  beautiful  views. 
A  few  hundred  yards  beyond  the  last  houses  of  Sorrento  it  crosses 
the  ravine  of  La  Conca  by  a  bridge.  To  the  left,  l/t  M.  farther, 
the  'Strada  Capodimonte'  ascends  to  the  left  (to  theDeserto,  see 
p.  149).  The  road  skirts  the  base  of  the  Capodimonte,  which  has 
for  ages  been  a  famous  point  of  view,  and  commands  retrospec- 
tively nearly  the  same  prospect.  It  then  ascends  the  Capo  di  Sor- 
rento, where  the  Villa  Correale  is  situated  (to  let).  About  2'/4  M. 
from  Sorrento  we  reach  Villazzano  ,  a  group  of  houses  at  the  foot  of 
the  telegraph  hill  (p.  149),  which  the  road  makes  a  bend  to  avoid. 
A  magnificent  view  towards  Capri  is  now  suddenly  disclosed.  On 
the  right  is  the  rocky  islet  of  Lo  Veruece.  About  1  M.  farther  we 
reach  the  town  of  Massa  Lubrense  (a  cafe'  at  the  entrance),  with 
8300  inhab.,  overshadowed  by  the  castle  of  S.  Maria.  On  the  coast 
are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  aqueduct  and  other  antiquities.  The 
church  of  S.  Francesco  is  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  temple  of 
Juno.  On  15th  Ann.  a  festival  which  attracts  the  inhabitants  of 
the  whole  neighbourhood  is  celebrated  here  annually. 

From  Massa  we  may  proceed  in  3|4  ]lr.  try  #.  Maria  to  the  village  of 
Ttrmini,  to  which  a  very  beautiful  mad  also  leads  from  Sorrento  past  the 
suppressed  monastery  of  /n'.  Franci'sro  <li  Paola  (admirable  views).  Ter- 
mini lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  S.  Coxtauzo ,  the  highest  point  of  the 
outer  part  of  the  peninsula  (a  fine  point  of  view;  ascent  somewhat  fatiguing; 
a.  hermit  at  the  top).  Beyond  Termini  the  road  gradually  descends  to  the 
Punta  di  Campanella,  the  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  13|4  hr.  from  Massa. 


Deserto.  SORRENTO.  10.  Route.      149 

Tliis  was  the  ancient  Cape  of  Minerva ,  so  named  after  a  temple  which 
is  said  to  have  been  erected  here  liy  Ulysses  in  honour  of  that  goddess. 
The  promontory  owes  its  modern  name  to  the  hells  of  one  of  the  watch- 
towers  erected  along  the  coast  by  Charles  V.  as  a  protection  against 
pirates.  So  lately  as  the  beginning  of  the  19th  cent,  numerous  inhabitants 
of  the  Italian  coast  were  carried  off  as  slaves  by  barbarian  marauders. 
From  this  sequestered  spot,  which  is  crowned  with  a  Lialdlumse  and 
overgrown  with  olives  and  myrtles,  we  enjoy  a  magnificent  distant  view 
of  the  sea,  the  coast,  and  the  island  of  I'apri,  3  M.  distant.  (Donkey 
from  Massa  to  the  Punta  C'ampanella,  the  summit  of  the  Bite.  S.  Costanzo, 
and  back  by  Termini  about  5  fr.  —  Those  who  make  the  excursion  from 
Sorrento  to  the  Punta  Campanella  should   allow  for  it  7-8  hrs.  in  all.) 

From  Termini  the  traveller  may  descend  to  the  S.  to  Nerano  and  the 
Marina  del  Can  tone,  whence  the  ruins  of  Orapolla  ,  2  M.  to  the  E.,  may- 
be visited  by  boat.  On  this  trip  we  obtain  a  beautiful  view  of  the  three 
f stands  of  the  Sirens,  also  called  /  Galli,  fortified  in  the  middle  ages, 
but  now  deserted.  At  the  landing-place  of  Crapolla  we  observe  remains 
of  a  wall  with  a  fountain  in  the  centre,  and  traces  of  an  aqueduct;  higher 
up  the  hill  are  the  ruins  of  the  monastery  and  early  Romanesque  basilica 
of  S.  Pietro,  the  eight  marble  and  granite  columns  of  which  are  probably 
derived  from  some  ancient  temple.  The  interior  of  the  church  shows 
traces  of  frescoes.  Good  walkers  may  ascend  from  this  point  to  S.  Agata 
(see  below)  and  return  thence  to  Sorrento. 

The  Heights  above  Sorrento  afford  many  fine  points  of  view, 
the  paths  to  which  are  generally  steep,  narrow,  and  viewless,  and 
most  conveniently  reached  on  donkey-hack.  Walking  is,  however, 
not  unpleasant  in  the  cool  season. 

A  very  favourite  point  is  the  *Deserto  ,  l3/4  hr.  from  the  Piazza 
of  Sorrento. 

We  first  follow  the  Massa  road,  and  then  ascend  to  the  left  by  the 
Htrada  Capodimonte  (p.  148).  Beyond  (3  min.)  the  second  bend  we  take 
the  Strada  Priora  to  the  left.  Farther  on  (10  min.)  we  avoid  the  Crocevia 
road  to  the  left  and  go  straight  on  between  garden -walls.  In  'ji  hr.  we 
turn  to  the  left  to  Priora,  which  we  reach  after  an  ascent  of  15-20  min.  ; 
we  now  pass  through  a  gateway  ,  cross  the  Largo  Priora,  the  small  piazza 
in  front  of  the  church,  to  the  left,  turn  to  the  right  opposite  the  Cam- 
panile (and  again  to  the  right),  and  follow  the  paved  path.  The  red  build- 
ing on  the  hill  before  us  is  the  Deserto,  3f.i  hr.  from  Priora. 

The  Deserto  is  a  suppressed  monastery,  in  which  an  establish- 
ment for  destitute  children  has  recently  heen  fitted  up  by  monks. 
In  return  for  the  refreshments  offered  to  visitors,  a  contribution  to 
the  funds  of  the  institution  is  expected.  The  roof  of  the  building 
commands  a  charming  prospect  of  both  bays,  and  the  island  of 
Capri;  in  front  of  the  latter  rises  the  hill  of  S.  Costanzo  (p.  1 4-iS ) . 
to  the  left  of  which  is  the  solitary  little  church  of  £.  Maria  delta 
Neve.  —  From  the  Deserto  we  proceed  to  the  E.  to  the  neigh- 
bouring village  of  S.  Agata,  the  cathedral  of  which  contains  a 
high-altar  of  inlaid  marble.  The  descent  thence  to  Sorrento  through 
the  beautiful  chestnut  wood  of  La  Tigliana  is  very  steep. 

Another  interesting  excursion  is  to  the  Telegrafo ,  an  optic 
telegraph  on  a  somewhat  steep  hill,  communicating  with  Capri. 
2y2  M.  to  the  W.,  and  commanding  an  admirable  view. 

The  route  to  it  is  the  same  as  to  the  Deserto  as  far  as  where  the  road 
to  Priora  diverges  to  the  left  (30  min.).  From  that  point  we  proceed  in  a 
straight  direction  to  (10  min.)  a  guard-house  of  the  Ufiizio  Daziario  of 
Massa  Lubrense,    about   3(1  paces  beyond  which  we  enter  the  second  gate 


150    Route  10.  CAPRI.  Steamboats. 

on  the  right  leading  through  the  yard  of  a  cottage  (2-3  soldi).     In  6  min. 
more  the  path  leads  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  telegraph. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  lies  the  *Valle  delle  Pigne,  which  derives 
its  name  from  a  number  of  handsome  pines.  The  view  of  Capri 
hence  is  justly  celebrated.  Quails  are  captured  here  and  in  other 
parts  of  the  peninsula  of  Sorrento,  and  in  the  island  of  Capri,  in 
large  numbers  in  May  and  June,  affording  considerable  profit  to  the 
inhabitants. 

An  admirable  survey  of  the  Piano  di  Sorrento  is  afforded  by  the 
*Piccolo  S.  Anyelo,  l'/2  ^r-  to  the  S.E.  of  Sorrento.  The  route 
ascends  from  the  Piazza  of  Sorrento  along  the  E.  margin  of  the  E. 
ravine,  passing  Cesarano  and  Baranica.  At  the  top  is  a  deserted 
cottage.  From  this  point  over  the  hill  of  the  Tore  di  Sorrento  to  S. 
Agata  (see  above")  i-l'/-2  hi". 

i/jThe  Conti  delle  Fontanelle,  a  chain  of  hills  1'fe  hr.  to  the  E.  of  Sor- 
rento, the  path  to  which  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  Meta  road  by  the 
white  summer-house  of  the  Villa  Cacace  between  the  villages  of  Pozzo- 
piano  and  Carotto,  command  a  survey  of  the  bays  of  Naples  and  Salerno. 
Having  reached  the  top  of  the  hill,  we  proceed  to  the  left  by  a  footpath 
leading  in  1\t  hr.  to  the  Arco  Maturate,  a  natural  rocky  archway  on  the 
S.  coast,  which  was  partially  destroyed  in  1841.  We  may  now  ascend 
hence  to  the  ^Telegrafo  di  Marecoccola,  the  hill  to  the  W.,  and  an  admi- 
rable point  of  view. 

Above  Meta  (p.  146)  lies  the  suppressed  monastery  of  *Camaldoli  di 
Meta,  now  a  country-seat  of  the  Marchese  Giussi,  commanding  an  excellent 
view.  It  is  reached  in  2l\\  hrs.  from  Sorrento :  dusty  road  to  Meta  3^4  M. ; 
ascend  to  the  right  to  Arbore  or  Albert,  '|2  hr. ;  turn  to  the  right  beyond 
the  village,  and  in  20  min.  more  the  yellow  building  is  reached.  As  the 
view  is  finest  towards  sunset,  the  excursion  should  not  be  made  at  too 
early  an  hour  (gardener  "J2-1  fr.) 

A  fatiguing,  but  interesting  excursion  is  the  ascent  of  the  Vico  Alvano 
(1600  ft.),  the  path  to  which  also  diverges  from  the  Meta  road  by  the 
above-mentioned  Villa  Cacace.  Is  then  crosses  the  heights  of  the  Conti 
di  Geremenna.     (From  Sorrento,  there  iw\  back,  6-7  hrs.,  with  guide.) 

We  may  also  walk  in  2  hrs.  by  Meta,  Arbore  (see  above),  Fornaeelle, 
and  I'reaizuuo  io  the  village  of  S.  Maria  a  Castello ,  where  from  a  pro- 
jecting rock  a  view  is  obtained  of  Posilnnv,  2000  ft.  below,  to  which  a 
path  descends  in  steps.  On  15th  Aug. ,  the  occasion  of  a  great  festival  at 
Positano  (comp.  p.  166) ,  many  visitors  ascend  from  Sorrento  to  S.  Maria 
for  the  sake  of  seeing  the  illumination  below;  after  which,  however, 
they  have  to  return  in  the  dark  by  a  bad  road. 

Capri. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  142. 
Fko.m  Naples  to  Cai>ui.  Steamboat  (via  Sorrento),  see  p.  143.  It 
starts  from  the  steps  of  S.  Lucia  (p.  39;  PI.  E,  6)  at  8,  8.30,  or  9  a.  m. 
—  After  touching  at  Sorrento  (13J4  hr.),  the  steamer  proceeds  direct  to 
the  Blue  Grotto.  After  visiting  the  latter,  the  passengers  are  then  con- 
veyed to  the  Marina  of  Capri,  arriving  about  12  or  12.30.  The  vessel  starts 
again  about  3  p.m.  and  reaches  Naples  about  6  p.m.  —  Fare  from 
Naples  to  Capri  8  fr. ,  return-tickets  (available  in  1875  for  one  day  only) 
12  fr. ;  from  Sorrento  to  Capri  6  fr.,  return-ticket  10  fr.  ;  embarcation  and 
landing  at  Naples  and  at  Capri  30c.  each  person,  or  for  a  single  passenger 
50  c.  ;  boat  into  the  Blue  Grotto  li|4  fr.  and  small  fee  (see  below).  Unless 
the  traveller  is  much  pressed  for  time,  this  is  a  most  unsatisfactory  mode 
of  visiting  beautiful  Capri,  as,  in  addition  to  the  Blue  Grotto,  he  will 
barely  have  time  to  visit  the  Villa  of  Tiberius.  The  view  from  the  latter, 
moreover,  is  far  less  attractive    in  the  middle  of  the   day    than    by    even- 


Hotels.  CAPRI.  10.  Route.      151 

ins  light.  One  whole  day  at  least  should  be  devoted  to  the  island,  as 
there   are  many  other  beautiful  points  besides  the  two  just  mentioned. 

As  the  trips  of  the  steamer  are  neither  very  regular  nor  punctual, 
enquiry  on  this  subject  should  be  made  at  the  hotels,  or,  better  still,  at. 
the  office.  Strada  Molo  Piccolo  34.  It  should  also  be  observed  that  when 
the  wind  is  in  the  E.  or  X.  the  Blue  Grotto  is  not  accessible  —  a  fact, 
however,  which  the  captain  of  the  steamer  is  careful  not.  to  mention.  On 
such  days,  moreover,  the  roughness  of  the  water  is  apt  to  occasion  sea- 
sickness. 

A  Market  Boat  also  plies  between  Naples  and  Capri  three  times  a 
week,  the  length  of  the  passage  depending  of  course  on  the  weather  (3-4 
hrs.  :  fare  2  fr.).  It  generally  starts  from  the  Porta  di  Massa,  by  the  Molo 
Piccolo  fPl.  F,  5)  at  Naples,  at  noon. 

Fkom  Sobrento  to  Capri.  Steamboat  (see  above) ,  starting  from  the 
Piccola  Marina.  —  By  Small  Boat  the  passage  takes  2-2'/2  hrs.  (fares,  see 
p.  147). 

A  four-oared  boat  for  the  excursion  to  Capri  and  Amalfi  costs  30-40  tr., 
the  night  being  spent  at  Capri.  Fine  weather  is  indispensable,  but  a 
perfect  calm  is  neither  necessary  nor  desirable.  —  The  cheapest  way  of 
reaching  Capri  from  Sorrento  is  by  the  Barca  Postals  of  Michele  Desiderio, 
starting  from  Capri  every  morning  at  6  or  7  o'  clock,  and  returning  from 
the  Piccola  Marina  at  Sorrento  about  noon  (fare,   with  luggage,  2  fr.). 

Order  is  now  tolerably  well  maintained  at  the  landing-place  at  Capri. 
One  soldo  is  sufficient  payment  for  assistance  rendered  to  passengers  on 
landing.  If  more  is  given,  the  traveller's  liberality  is  sure  to  attract  a 
host  of  the  keen-eyed  beggars  who  infest  the  place.  Begging  is  the  order 
of  the  day  here,  even  more  than  elsewhere  in  Italy,  and  is  often  accom- 
panied by  singing  and  dancing,  while  the  cry  resounds,  "un  bajocc*1, 
Signoria  !    Eccellenza  !    un  bajocc' !" 

Disposition  of  Time.  The  excursion  to  the  Blue  Grotto  (p.  154) ,  for 
which  light  boats  will  be  found  at  the  landing-place,  occupies  l3|4-2  hrs. 
(for  1  person  l1^-!1^  fr.,  2-3  persons  2-3  fr.  ■  these  small  boats  are  not 
allowed  to  take  more  than  three  passengers).  Besides  the  boat-fare,  each 
person  pays  for  admission  to  the  grotto  1]J4  fr.,  the  sum  fixed  by  the 
Municipio  of  Capri,  which  has  to  be  handed  to  the  boatman  at  the  end 
of  the  trip.  If  the  wind  is  from  the  E.  or  X.  access  is  impossible.  The 
trip  by  water  to  the  grotto  is  strikingly  beautiful,  especially  if  the  boat 
steers  near  the  precipitous  rocky  shore.  Those  who  have  started  late 
from  Sorrento  had  better  row  direct  to  the  grotto  (best  light  10-12 
o'clock),  the  skiff  for  entering  which  is  ordered  by  a  signal  in  passing. 

Travellers  who  desire  to  return  to  Sorrento  on  the  same  day  had 
better  first  visit  the  Blue  Grotto,  then  order  dinner  at  one  of  the  inns  on 
the  Marina,  ascend  to  Capri  and  go  direct  to  the  Punta  Tragara,  or  to 
the  Villa  di  Tiberio  if  time  and  energy  permit,  and  finally  return  direct 
to  the  beach.  —  Those  who  spend  the  night  on  the  island  can  of  course 
accomplish  all  this  with  greater  leisure.  On  the  following  morning  they 
should  then  descend  (20  min.)  to  the  Piccola  Marina  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
island,  and  take  a  boat  to  the  Green  Grotto  {il\->  fr. ;  li|2  hr.  there  and 
back) ;  or,  still  better,  perform  the  Giro  of  the  whole  island  by  boat 
(3-4  hrs.).  —  If  a  longer  stay  be  made,  Anacapri  may  also  be  visited,  and 
Monte  Solaro  ascended. 

Hotels.  At  the  Marina*  :::Hotel  du  Louvre  (Stanford) ,  admirably 
situated  on  a  height  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  landing-place,  pension  6-9  fr., 
with  baths  (table  d'hote  on  the  arrival  of  the  vessel,  d1^  fr.);  Hotkl 
i>k  la  Grotte  Bleue,  adjacent;  Gran  Bretagna,  the  nearest  to  the 
landing-place,  D.  4^2,  pension  6-7  fr.  —  In  the  Village  of  Capri. 
"Albergo  Quisisana,  English  landlady  (widow  of  Dr.  Clark),  an  ex- 
cellent house,  pension  8  fr. ;  *  Albergo  del  Tiberio  and  Hotel  Royal 
(well  spoken  of;  pension  6-71|2  fr.),  both  near  the  Piazza.  A  few  paces 
farther ,  "Albergo  di  Michele  Pagano  ( Vittoria) ,  pension  6  fr. ;  the 
garden  contains  a  handsome  palm-tree.  Hotel  de  France,  to  the  left  of 
the  Piazza,  higher  up,  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  to  the  E..  good,  but  un- 
pretending, pension  6  fr, 


152    Route  1(1.  CAPRI.  Village  of  Capri. 

Donkey  from  the  Marina  to  the  village  of  Capri  U\\,  Horse  1>|2  fr. ; 
to  the  Villa  di  Tiberio  and  back  2]|2  or  3  fr. ;  to  Anacapri  3  or  4  fi\, 
and  a  small  fee;  per  day  5  or  6  fr.,  and  the  same  for  the  ascent  of  the 
.Monte  Solaro.  —  Guides  are  quite  unnecessary  unless  time  is  very  lim- 
ited.     A    boy   to    show   the   way   may  be    engaged   for  several  hours  for 

'1-2-1  fr- 

Boats  (bargaining  necessary)  about  l1^  fr.  per  hour;  trip  to  the  Blue 
Grotto  i'|4-3  fr.  (see  above);  'giro',  or  tour  of  the  island,  6-8  fr.  —  The 
Marina  Piccola  on  the  S.  side  of  the  island,  where  the  Green  Grotto  is 
situated,  is  reached  in  2U  min.  (starting  from  the  Piazza  at  Capri  we 
diverge  after  7  min.  to  the  right  from  the  road  to  Anacapri  by  a  white 
house,  and  immediately  turn  to  the  left  and  puss  under  the  road).  Boat 
hence  to  the  Green  Grotto  and  round  the  E.  end  of  the  island  to  the 
Marina  about  4  fr. 

Capri,  the  ancient  Capreae  ('island  of  goats'),  is  a  small,  moun- 
tainous island  of  oblong  form.  The  highest  point  is  the  Monte 
Solaro  on  the  \V.  side,  1980  ft.  above  the  sea-level;  towards  the 
E.  huge  cliffs,  about  900  ft.  in  height,  rise  abruptly  from  the 
sea.  Boats  can  land  safely  at  two  places  only.  The  island  contains 
about  5000  inhab.  and  two  important  villages  only,  those  of  Capri 
and  Anacapri.  The  inhabitants,  who  support  themselves  chiefly 
by  agriculture  and  fishing,  still  retain  some  old  peculiarities  of 
habits  and  costume.  One  of  their  chief  pursuits  is  coral-fishing, 
in  which  many  of  them  are  engaged  in  summer  on  the  African 
coast.  The  island  yields  fruit,  oil,  and  excellent  red  and  white 
wines  in  abundance.    The  indigenous  flora  comprises  800  species. 

The  island  first  came  into  notice  under  Augustus,  who  showed  a  great 
partiality  for  it,  and  founded  palaces,  baths,  and  aqueducts  here.  Tiberius 
erected  twelve  villas,  in  honour  of  the  twelve  gods,  in  the  principal  parts 
of  the  island,  the  largest  of  which  was  the  Villa  Jovis  (Tacit.  Ann.  iv. 
u7),  after  he  had  surrendered  the  reins  of  government  to  Sejanus  and 
retired  hither  (A.D.  27).  He  remained  here  almost  uninterruptedly  till 
his  death  in  37,  even  after  the  fall  of  Sejanus  in  31.  Exaggerated  accounts 
are  given  of  the  cruelty  and  profligacy  of  the  emperor,  even  towards  the 
close  of  his  career.  The  tranquillity  and  inaccessibility  of  the  island,  as 
well  as  the  geniality  of  the  climate,  were  the  attractions  which  induced 
him  to  spend  so  many  years  in  it.  Considerable  remains  of  the  buildings 
of  Tiberius  are  still  extant. 

In  1803 ,  during  the  Napoleonic  wars ,  Capri  was  captured  by  the 
English  under  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  fortified,  and  converted  into  a  miniature 
Gibraltar.  Sir  Hudson  Lowe  was  afterwards  the  commandant.  In  Oct. 
1808,  however,  the  island  was  recaptured  by  Murat  by  a  brilliant  coup- 
de-main. 

The  Marina  Grande ,  or  principal  landing-place ,  where  the 
steamers  and  most  of  the  small  boats  land  their  passengers,  is  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  island,  where  there  are  several  hotels  and  a 
number  of  fishermen's  cottages.  Two  paths  ascend  hence  to  the 
village  of  Capri.  The  easier  leads  to  the  right  (W.)  and  ascends 
past  the  hotels  in  windings  (20-25  min.).  The  shorter,  but 
steeper  path  to  the  left  (E.)  ascends  in  steps.  They  both  run 
between  garden-walls  the  greater  part  of  the  way,  and  are  far  from 
pleasant  in  the  middle  of  the  day. 

Capri  (460  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  island,  with  2350  inhab., 
lies  on  the  saddle  which  connects  the  E.  heights  of  the  island  (Lo 
Capo)  with  the  western   (  Mte.  Solaro),  and  is  commanded  by  two 


^Villadi  Tiberio.  CAPRT.  10.  Route.       153 

lower  hills  crowned  with  dilapidated  castles.  Nearly  in  the  centre 
of  the  village  is  the  small  Piazza ,  to  which  the  paths  from  the 
Marina  lead,  and  from  which  the  road  to  Anacapri  starts.  To  the 
S.  of  it  (5  min.)  is  the  Certosa,  founded  in  1371,  now  a  barrack. 

Leaving  the  Piazza  by  a  vaulted  passage  to  the  left  ot  the  flight 
of  steps  opposite  the  campanile,  then  turning  to  the  right  and 
passing  the  hotels  of  Pagano  and  Quisisana,  and  turning  to  the  left 
again  (as  the  path  straight  on  leads  to  the  Certosa),  we  are  led  by 
a  path  which  ascends  slightly  the  greater  part  of  the  way  to  the 
('20  min. J  *Punta  Tragara,  the  K.  promontory.  This  point  com- 
mands a  picturesque  view  of  Capri  and  the  S.  coast,  with  three 
precipitous  cliffs  called  the  Faraglioni.  On  the  summit  of  the  one 
nearest  the  land  are  remains  of  a   Roman  tomb. 

The  B.  promontory,  called  Lo  Capo,  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  site  of  the  Villa  Jovis,  to  which  Tiberius  retired  for 
nine  months  after  the  fall  of  Sejanus.  This  is  a  beautiful  point 
of  view  (3/4  hr.  from  the  village  of  Capri).  The  path  cannot 
be  mistaken.  From  the  Piazza  we  pass  to  the  left  through 
the  archway  bearing  the  sign  of  the  Hotel  de  France  and  fol- 
low the  paved  track,  which  soon  ascends  a  little.  It  then  becomes 
level,  and  at  length  skirts  the  slope  to  the  right.  On  the  right, 
a  few  minutes  before  reaching  the  last  hill,  we  pass  a  clean  tav- 
ern called  'Salto  of  Tiberio',  after  the  rock  from  which,  accord- 
ing to  a  purely  mythical  story,  the  tyrant  precipitated  his  vic- 
tims. A  projecting  platform  with  a  railing  affords  a  view  of  the 
sea  below. 

To  the  right  are  the  remains  of  an  old  Lighthouse  (*view). 

After  a  slight  ascent  we  reach  the  *Villa  di  Tiberio  (pronounc- 
ed Timberio  by  the  natives),  part  of  the  extensive  ruins  of  which 
are  now  used  as  a  cow-stable.  They  consist  of  a  number  of  vault- 
ed chambers  and  corridors ,  the  uses  of  which  cannot  now  be  as- 
certained. On  the  highest  point  is  the  small  chapel  of  S.  Marin 
del  Soccorso  (1050  ft.),  with  the  cell  of  a  hermit,  who  for  a 
trifling  donation  allows  the  visitor  to  inscribe  his  'testimonium 
praesentise'.  This  point  commands  a  noble  prospect  of  the  island 
and  the  blue  sea,  of  the  barren  Punta  di  Campanella  opposite,  and 
the  two  bays;   even  Paestum  is  said  to  be  sometimes  visible. 

In  returning  we  take  the  path  which  diverges  to  the  left  by  a  house 
on  the  road-side,  l\*  hr.  from  the  Salto  of  Tiberio;  we  then  cross  f L c 
yard  diagonally  towards  the  left,  ascend  a  few  steps,  and  traverse  gardens 
and  fields  in  the  same  direction.  In  '|4  hr.  we  reach  the  so-called  Vol 
di  Mitromania ,  sometimes  called  Matrimonii)  by  the  islanders ,  a  valley 
descending  eastwards  to  the  sea  at  the  base  of  the  Tuoro  Grande  ur  Tele- 
grafo.  To  the  left  in  this  valley,  8  min.  farther,  and  reached  by  a  path 
which  is  rather  rough  towards  the  end,  rises  the  #Ar$o  Naturale,  a  mag- 
nificent natural  archway  in  the  rock,  where  we  obtain  a  striking  view  of 
the  imposing  and  rugged  cliffs.  A  visit  to  the  Grotta  di  Mitromania,  or 
grotto  of  Mithras,  a  shrine  of  the  Persian  god  of  the  sun  .  to  which  13(1 
steps  descend,    may  be  combined  with  this  excursion. 

The  ruins  on  the  Tit(>ro  Gfainlv  are  supposed  to  belong  to  the  second 


154       Route  10.  CAPRI.  Anact^ri. 

villa  of  Tiberius.  On  the  coast  are  mimerous  ruins  under  water;  among 
others,  to  the  S.  of  Capri,  liy  the  Camerellc.  is  a  long  series  of  arches, 
perhaps  belonging  to  an  ancient  road. 

Fkom  Capki  to  AxACArKi  (3/4  hr.).  A  new  road  in  long  wind- 
ings hewn  in  the  rock  now  supersedes  the  steep  and  fatiguing 
flight  of  535  steps  fto  the  foot  of  which  249  more  ascended  from 
the  Marina")  which  used  to  form  the  chief  approach  to  Anacapri. 
This  road  commands  beautiful  views.  Above  it  rises  the  ruined 
mediaeval  Castello  di  Barbarossa ,  named  after  the  pirate  who  de- 
stroyed it  in  the  16th  century.  At  the  entrance  to  Anacapri  is  the 
Ristoratore  di  Barbarossa.  a  small  tavern.  The  road  to  the  right 
leads  into  the  village ;  that  to  the  left  to  the  Monte  Solaro. 

Anacapri  f880  ft.),  the  second  village  in  the  island,  with 
1700  inhab.,  is  scattered  over  the  lofty  plain  which  slopes  towards 
the  W.  On  the  left  side  of  the  street,  before  the  church  is  reached, 
is  a  small  Cafe.  The  tower  of  the  church  commands  a  fine  view. 
There  are  Roman  ruins  in  this  neighbourhood  also,  particularly  at 
the  village  of  Damecuta,  on  the  N.W.  side,  where  a  villa  of  Ti- 
berius once  stood. 

The  "Ascent  of  Monte  Solaro  is  recommended  to  tolerable  walkers, 
as  the  mountain  commands  two  beautiful  and  entirely  different  views, 
viz.  that  from  the  hermitage,  and  the  panorama  from  the  summit.  The 
route  is  easily  found.  By  the  above-named  Ristoratore  di  Barbarossa  at 
the  beginning  of  Anacapri  we  follow  the  paved  path  to  the  left,  and  after 
GO  paces  the  footpath  to  the  left,  which  passes  the  cypress-shaded  ceme- 
tery. Beyond  the  cemetery  we  take  the  second  path  diverging  to  the  left, 
which  immediately  afterwards  turns  to  the  right;  70  paces  farther  we 
turn  to  the  left  and  ascend  through  a  hollow  flO  min.  from  the  Eistora- 
tore). On  the  crest  of  the  hill  (T/2  hr.)  which  connects  the  summits  of 
La  Crocvlla  and  Monte  vSolaro  we  pass  through  a  gateway,  and  then  fol- 
low the  bridle-path  to  the  right  to  the  white  wall  of  the  -Hermitage 
f  1624  ft;  good  wine,  for  which  Pater  Anselmo,  the  hermit,  expects  a  trifling 
fee),  where  a  projecting  platform  commands  a  most  picturesque  view  of 
the  village  of  Capri  and  the  whole  of  the  beautiful  island.  After  a  very 
fatiguing  ascent  of  20  min.  more  wc  reach  the  summit  of  the  :;'Monte 
Solaro  (1980  ft.),  which  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea,  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
island,  and  is  crowned  by  a  ruined  fort.  The  *view  is  superb,  embracing 
Xaples  with  the  whole  of  its  bay,  as  well  as  that  of  Salerno  as  far 
as  the  ruins  of  Psestum.  Towards  the  X.  the  Bay  of  Gaeta  is  visible,  and 
towards  the  W.  the  group  of  the  Ponza  Islands.  The  spectator  also  obtains 
•a  survey  of  the  chain  of  the  Apennines,  bounding  the  Campanian  plain 
in  a  wide  curve ,  and  culminating  in  the  Monte  Vergine  near  Avellino. 
Capri  itself  and  the  peninsula  of  Sorrento  lie  in  prominent  relief  at  the 
spectators   feet. 

The  **Blue  Grotto  (Grotta  Azzurra)  is  situated  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  island,  about  midway  between  the  landing-place  of  Capri 
and  the  Punta  Gradelle  (boat  and  admission  to  the  grotto,  see 
p.  151  ).  The  boat  skirts  the  base  of  the  precipitous  rocky  shore, 
where  numerous  sea-stars  fstella  marina)  are  observed.  In  1/4  "r- 
we  reach  the  ruins  of  the  Baths  of  Tiberius,  where  a  fragment  of 
an  ancient  wall  and  part  of  a  column  in  the  water  are  to  be  seen, 
and  in  1/2  "r-  more  we  arrive  at  the  entrance  of  the  grotto,  which 
is  scarcely  3  ft.  in  height.  Visitors  must  lie  down  in  the  boat  on 
entering.    When  a  breeze  blows  from  the  N.  or  E.   the  grotto  is 


Blue  Grotto.  CAPRI.  10.  Route.      155 

not  accessible.  In  the  interior  the  roof  rises  to  a  height  of  41  ft.; 
the  water  is  8  fathoms  deep.  Length  of  the  grotto  175  ft.,  great- 
est width  100  ft.  The  effect  of  the  blue  refraction  of  the  light  on 
every  object  is  indescribable,  and  at  first  completely  dazzles  the 
eye.  Objects  in  the  water  assume  a  beautiful  silvery  appearance. 
One  of  the  boatmen  usually  offers  to  bathe  in  order  to  show  this 
effect,  and  is  sufficiently  rewarded  with  1  fr.,  although  he  generally 
makes  the  exorbitant  demand  of  2-3  fr.  The  most  favourable 
time  is  between  10  and  12  o'clock.  The  grotto  was  known  to 
the  ancients.  Near  the  middle  of  it  is  a  kind  of  landing-place, 
leading  to  a  passage  with  broken  steps,  but  closed  at  the  upper 
end ,  once  probably  an  approach  from  the  land  to  the  grotto, 
which  was  perhaps  connected  with  the  villa  of  Tiberius  at  Dame- 
cuta.  The  grotto  fell  into  oblivion  in  the  middle  ages,  but  since 
1822 ,  when  it  was  re-discovered  by  fishermen ,  it  has  justly 
been  a  favourite  attraction. 

Anacapri  is  peached  by  a  tolerable  path ,  beginning  near  the  Blue 
Grotto,  which  before  the  construction  of  the  new  road  formed  the  chief 
route  between  that  village  and  the  ilarina  of  Capri. 

The  Blue  Grotto  is  the  most  celebrated  of  the  caverns  with 
which  the  rocky  shores  of  Capri  abound,  but  some  of  the  others 
are  also  well  worth  visiting.  The  Giro,  or  *Voyagf.  round  the 
Island,  occupies  3-4  hrs.  (boats  see  p.  152).  Steering  from  the 
Marina  towards  the  E.,  we  first  reach  the  Qrotta  delle  Stalattite, 
with  its  stalactite  formations.  We  then  round  the  promontory  of 
Lo  Capo,  and  visit  the  Qrotta  Bianca,  named  like  the  others  from 
its  predominating  colour.  The  most  striking  part  of  the  trip  is  at 
the  Faraglioni  (p.  153),  which  rise  majestically  from  the  water. 
The  central  cliff  is  undermined  by  an  imposing  archway ,  through 
which  the  boat  passes,  but  not  visible  from  the  land.  We  next 
pass  the  Piccola  Marina  (p.  152)  and  in  25  min.  more  reach  the 
Qrotta  Verde,  at  the  base  of  the  Monte  Solaro,  a  cavern  of  a  beauti- 
ful emerald-green  colour,  and  the  most  interesting  after  the  Blue 
Grotto  (best  light  about  noon).  The  voyage  hence  round  Ana- 
capri to  the  Blue  Grotto  is  less  attractive,  but  this  cavern  may 
now  be  visited  as  an  appropriate  termination  to  the  excursion 
(in  which  case  a  skiff  for  the  grotto  should  be  previously  ordered 
to  meet  the  traveller).  Lastly  we  pass  the  lighthouse  and  sev- 
eral fortifications  dating  from  the    English   occupation  of  1808. 


11.  From  Naples  to  Salerno,  Psestum,  and  Amain. 

Compare  Map,  p.  100. 

The  Bay  of  Salerno  cannot  indeed  compete  with  the  Bay  of  Naples  ; 
towards  the  S.  its  shores  are  flat  and  monotonous;  but  the  N.  side,  where 
the  mountains  of  the  Sorrentine  peninsula  rise  abruptly  some  thousands 
of  feet  from  the  sea,  is  replete  with  beauty  and  grandeur.  Here  are  sit- 
uated   the   towns   of  Salerno    and    Amalfl ,     conspicuous   in    the   pages    of 


156      Route  11.  PAGANI.  From  Naples 

mediaeval  history,  and  still  containing  a  few  monuments  of  their  former 
greatness.  Farther  S.,  in  a  barren,  desolate  situation,  are  the  temples  of 
Paestum  ,  usually  the  extreme  point  of  the  Italian  peninsula  visited  by 
northern  travellers.  All  these  recal  the  golden  period  of  Greek  history 
and  art  more  forcibly  than  any  other  localities  in  Italy. 

This  route  may  conveniently  be  combined  with  the  preceding  (p.  143) 
as  follows:  Fikst  Day:  La  Cava  and  Salerno.  Second  Day:  Paestum. 
Third  Day:  Amalfl.  Fourth  Day:  By  boat  to  Positano  or  Scaricatojo. 
and  across  the  hills  to  Sorrento  (or  by  boat  direct  to  Capri,  and  next 
day  to  Sorrento).  Fifth  Day:  By  the  Barca  Postale  at  noon  to  Capri. 
Sixth  Day  :  Back  to  Naples  by  steamer.  The  passage  across  the  moun- 
tains (p.  1G0|  to  Sorrento,  as  well  as  the  excursion  to  Psestum ,  were 
formerly  not  unattended  with  danger  from  brigands,  but  these  routes  are 
now  considered  safe. 

Railway  from  Naples  to  Salerno,  34  M.,  in  2'|3  hrs. ;  fares  6  fr.  15, 
4  fr.  30,  2  fr.  45  c.  (Vietri  is  the  station  for  Ama]fi) ;  to  Eboli,  50  M.,  in 
3>|4-3'|2  his.;  fares  9  fr.  5,  6  fr.  35,  3  fr.  65  c;  to  Rmnagnano,  74i|2  M., 
in  r>i|._.  hrs.;  fares  13.fr.  60,  9  fr.  55,  _5  fr.  50  c. 

From  Naples  to  Pompeii,  15  M.,  see  R.  7.  The  train,  after 
quitting  the  Bay  of  Naples,  traverses  the  fertile  plain  of  the 
Sumo.  Cotton  and  tobacco  are  extensively  cultivated  here.  17  M. 
Scafati.  The  festival  of  the  Madonna  del  Bagno  takes  place  here 
on   15th  Aug.   (seep.  31). 

lQ1^  M.  Angri,  near  which  Teias,  the  last  king  of  the  Goths, 
was  defeated  by  Narses  in  523,  after  having  descended  from 
Lettere  on  Monte  Sant'  Angelo  to  the  plain.  The  district  gradually 
becomes  more  mountainous,  and  the  scenery  is  picturesque  the 
whole  way. 

21  M.  Pagani,  with  12,500  inhabitants.  In  the  church  of 
S.  Michele,  under  the  altar  of  a  chapel  to  the  left  of  the  choir, 
are  preserved  under  glass  the  relics  of  Alphonso  de'  Liguori,  born 
at  Naples  in  1696,  bishop  of  S.  Agata  in  1762,  and  founder  of 
the  order  of  the  Redemptorists ,  who  died  at  Pagani  in  1787, 
and  was  canonised  by  Gregory  XVI.  in  1839.  The  place  contains 
nothing  else  to  detain  us.     From  Pagani  to  Amalfl,  see  p.  162. 

221/o  M.  Nocera  de'  Pagani,  a  town  of  some  importance  but  no 
great  interest,  near  the  ancient  Nuceria  Alfaterna,  where  Hugo  de' 
Pagani,  founder  of  the  order  of  the  Templars,  and  the  artist  Fran- 
cesco Solimena  were  born,  and  where  Paulus  Jovius,  the  historian, 
was  bishop.  To  the  left  of  the  line,  above  the  extensive  Capuchin 
monastery,  rise  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Castello  in  Parco,  the 
scene  of  the  death  of  Sibylla,  widow  of  King  Manfred,  and  her 
youthful  son  after  the  battle  of  Benevento  (1266).  At  the  close 
of  the  14th  cent,  the  castle  was  one  of  the  principal  strongholds 
of  the  house  of  Anjou.      Fine  view  from  the  summit. 

On  the  right,  shortly  before  the  train  reaches  the  small  village 
of  (25  M . )  S.  Clemente,  we  observe  the  ancient  baptismal  church  of 
*S.  Maria  Maggiore,  similar  to  >S.  Stefano  in  Rome.  The  basin  in 
the  centre  is  surrounded  by  eight  granite  columns,  enclosed  by 
a  circular  passage  with  sixteen  pairs  of  handsome  pillars  of  pavo- 
nazetto  with  four  capitals,  all  antique.  The  walls  are  decorated 
with   frescoi's  of  the   14th  century. 


to  Salerno.  VIETK1.  11.  Route.      157 

Beyond  S.  Clemente  the  line  ascends  considerably.  On  emerg- 
ing from  a  cutting  the  train  reaches  — 

'28M.  la  Cava  ( Alberyo  di  Londra ,  in  a  garden;  Hotel  Vit- 
toria;  Pension  Suisse ;  * Cafe  d' Italia ,  in  the  Piazza^  ,  situated  in 
a  charming  valley  ,  a  favourite  summer  and  autumn  resort.  The 
town  consists  of  along  street  with  arcades,  as  at  Bologna.  The 
main  street  leads  from  the  station  to  the  left  to  the  Piazza,  where 
a  church  and  a  large  fountain  are  situated.  Good  lodgings  may  be 
hired  here. 

*Excuksion  to  Corpo  Lii  Cava  ,  1  '/j  hi',  to  the  S.W.,  situated  on  ;i 
wooded  height,  very  pleasant,  especially  on  a  summer  afternoon  (donkey 
l1!^  fr.,  there  und  hack  2-3  fr.;  carriages  may  also  be  hired).  Leaving 
the  Piazza  we  ascend  the  road  to  the  left  by  the  church.  After  5  min., 
when  the  road  turns  to  the  right,  we  ascend  by  the  shorter  path  to  the 
left  by  a  church,  and  farther  on  between  walls,  past  the  red-painted  tobacco 
manufactory,  to  <S'.  Giuseppe,  a  church  with  a  few  houses.  Here  we  again 
quit  the  road,  which  goes  to  the  right,  and  follow  the  path  to  the  left.  It 
descends,  crosses  a  ravine  (beyond  the  bridge  a  small  church  to  the  left), 
and  again  gradually  ascends,  commanding  a  view  of  the  village  to  the  right. 
For  a  time  the  path  is  enclosed  by  walls,  but  a  view  is  soon  obtained  of 
the  valley  of  La  Cava  to  the  left,  and,  higher  up,  of  the  Bay  of  Salerno. 
In  '|2  hr.  (from  S.  Giuseppe)  we  arrive  at  the  church  of  Pietra  Santa  (so 
called  from  a  rock  in  front  of  the  high  altar ,  on  which  the  pope  sat  in 
1816),  whence  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  mountain  slopes  of  Cava, 
studded  with  numerous  white  houses ,  and  the  Bay  of  Salerno  to  the 
right.  In  the  narrow  valley  about  twenty  mills  are  propelled  by  the 
brook.  The  slender  round  towers  on  the  hills  about  Cava  are  erected  for 
the  capture  of  wild  pigeons  in  October.  Beyond  Pietra  Santa  we  skirt  the 
wood  for  8  min.  and  reach  the  high  road ,  which  soon  afterwards  crosses 
the  viaduct  to  Corpo  di  Cava.  Here  the  road  divides,  leading  to  the  village 
to  the  right,  and  to  the  monastery  in  5  min.  towards  the  left. 

The  village  of  Corpo  di  Cava  (;'Michele  Scapolatiello  and  Ferdinaiido  Adi- 
nolfl ,  both  rustic)  stands  on  the  rock  against  which  the  monastery  is  built, 
above  a  beautiful  narrow  valley  with  several  mills.  The  air  is  pure  and  the 
situation  beautiful,  so  that  travellers  often  make  a  prolonged  stay  here. 

The  famous  Benedictine  abbey  of  'La  Trinita  tlella  Cava ,  founded  in 
1025  by  Waimar  III.  ,  a  Lombard  prince  of  Salerno  ,  is  now  condemned 
to  dissolution.  It  still  contains  about  twenty  monks.  The  Church  (with 
two  ancient  sarcophagi  at  the  entrance)  contains  the  tombs  of  S.  Alferius, 
the  first  abbot,  of  Queen  Sibylla,  wife  of  Roger,  who  died  at  Salerno,  and 
of  several  anti-popes,  among  whom  was  Gregory  VIII.  The  organ  is  one 
of  the  best  in  Italy.  —  The  Archives  of  the  monastery  (shown  in  the 
forenoon  only)  are  of  great  value,  and  contain  a  number  of  important 
documents  on  parchment  in  uninterrupted  succession  j  the  catalogue  com- 
prises 8  vols.  Among  the  valuable  3ISS.  are  the  Codex  Legum  Longo- 
bardorum  of  1004,  a  prayer-book  with  miniatures  of  the  school  of  Fra 
Angelieo  da  Fiesole,  the  Latin  Biblia  Vulgata  of  the  7th  cent.,  etc. 

The  train  now  traverses  a  beautiful  district,  and  soon  affords 
a  view  of  the  Bay  of  Salerno;   in  10  min.  it  reaches  — 

30'/'2  M.  Vietri,  charmingly  situated,   with  several  villas. 

Passengers  may  alight  here  and  take  a  carriage  down  to  Salerno 
(2  fr. ,  single  seat  >|2  fr.).  The  road  descends,  commanding  a  view  of  the 
sea,  and  affords  a  pleasant  walk.  High  above,  along  the  rocks  of  Monte 
Liberatore  to  the  left,  runs  the  railway.  Carriage  to  Amalfi  (p.  162)  less 
expensive  here  than  at  Salerno  (a  drive  of  2-2'|2  hrs. ;  with  one  horse  4, 
with  two  6  fr.,  and  fee  of  1  fr.). 

The  railway,  supported  by  galleries,  and  passing  through  four 
tunnels ,  the  last  of  which  penetrates  the  castle-hill ,  descends 
rapidly  hence  to  Salerno. 


158      Route  11.  SALERNO.  From  Naples 

34  M.  SalemO.  The  Railway  Station  lies  at  the  E.  end  of  the  town, 
a  considerable  way  from  the  principal  hotels. 

Hotels.  -Hotel  Vittoria,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town  from  Vietri, 
on  the  left,  the  farthest  from  the  station,  R.  J5,  B.  l1^  ,  D.  5,  L.  and  A. 
2  fi\,  pension  according  to  arrangement;  "Hotel  d'Angleterre  ,  on  the 
Marina;  both  these  houses  command  a  fine  view.  —  Albergo  Americano 
and  Albekgo  di  Pacella,  also  on  the  Marina,  unpretending  (charges  ac- 
cording to  bargain). 

Cafes.     Several  on  the  quay,  now  the  Corso  Garibaldi. 

Sea-Baths  near  the  Marina,  similar  to  those  at  Naples  (p.  26). 

Carriages.  From  the  railway  to  the  town  with  one  horse  50  c,  with 
two  horses  1  fr. ;  at  night  70  c.  or  l'|2  fr. ;  one  hour  1  or  2  fr.,  at  night 
i'la  or  2'|2  fr.  —  For  drives  in  the  neighbourhood  a  previous  agreement 
should  always  be  made,  gratuity  included,  although  even  in  this  case 
1-2  fr.  above  the  fare  is  always  expected.  The  charges  made  at  the  hotels 
are  as  follows  (but  the  carriage-owners  take  less  when  treated  with 
directly):  To  Paestum  with  two  horses  20-25  fr. ;  with  three  horses,  for 
4-5  persons,  25-30  fr.,  and  a  fee  of  about  2  fr. ;  with  one  horse  to  Amalfi 
(p.  162)  5-6,  with  two  horses  8-10  fr.  —  Single  travellers  may  avail  them- 
selves of  one  of  the  swift  but  uncomfortable  corricoli  (two-wheeled,  rustic 
vehicles ;  driver  stands  behind  the  passenger),  but  a  stipulation  should  be 
made  that  no  second  passenger  be  taken  up  by  the  way ;  to  Amalfi 
(tutto  compreso),  according  to  circumstances  2'J2-4  fr. 

Rowing  or  Sailing  Boat  (according  to  bargain)  l-l1^  fr.  per  hour.  Boat 
to  Paestum  20-25,  to  Amalfi  8-10  fr.,  according  to  the  number  of  rowers. 

Popular  Festival  on  the  eve  and  day  of  St.  Matthew,  20th-21st  Sept., 
with  fireworks  and  illumination  which  are  best  seen  from  a  boat  (4-5  fr.). 

Salerno ,  the  ancient  Salernum ,  delightfully  situated  at  the 
N.  extremity  of  the  bay,  and  bounded  on  the  E.  by  fertile 
plains,  is  the  seat  of  the  local  government  and  of  an  archbishop, 
and  the  chief  residence  of  the  numerous  local  aristocracy  (pop., 
with  the  adjoining  villages,  27,750).  The  old  town,  rising  on  the 
slope  of  the  so-called  Apennine,  with  narrow  and  irregular  streets, 
reoals  the  9th  and  10th  centuries,  when  the  Lombards  occupied 
it,  the  11th  cent,  when  it  belonged  to  the  Normans,  and  lastly 
the  period  when  the  houses  of  Hohenstaufen  and  Anjou  were 
masters  of  the  place ,  and  when  Salerno  enjoyed  the  reputa- 
tion of  being  the  greatest  medical  school  in  Europe. 

The  *  Marina,  or  quay,  1  M.  in  length,  now  called  the  Corso 
Garibaldi,  affords  a  beautiful  walk,  especially  on  summer  evenings. 
The  once  excellent  harbour  is  now  choked  with  sand.  At  the  W. 
end  of  the  Marina  is  a  large  new  Theatre  ,  with  some  flower-beds 
adjacent.  Nearer  the  E.  end  of  the  Marina  stands  the  monument 
of  Carlo  Pisacana,  Duke  of  S.  Giovanni,  'precursore  di  Garibaldi', 
a  Genoese  ,  who  participated  in  the  attempts  to  revolutionise  Italy 
in  1857,  landed  in  Calabria,  and  perished  while  attempting  to 
escape.  The  large  building  between  the  two  sentry-boxes,  about 
J  00  paces  farther,  is  the  Prefettura,  past  which  a  narrow  street 
to  the  left  leads  to  the  — 

*Cattej>ka:le  S.  Matteo,  erected  in  1084  by  Robert  Guiscard, 
and  adorned  with  works  of  art  from  Passtum.  The  restoration  of 
17fiS  has  deprived  the  edifice  of  much  of  its  simple  grandeur, 
but  it  still  merits  a  visit.     The  steps  ascend  to  an  atrium     sur- 


to  Pcestum.  EBOLI.  11.  Route.      159 

rounded  by  twenty-eight  antique  columns.  In  the  centre  formerly 
stood  a  granite  basin  which  is  now  in  the  Villa  Reale  at  Naples. 
Along  the  walls  are  ranged  fourteen  ancient  Sarcophagi ,  which 
were  used  by  the  Normans  and  their  successors  as  Christian  burying- 
places.  The  bronze  doors,  executed  at  Constantinople,  were  pre- 
sented by  Landolfo  Butromile  in  1099. 

The  nave  contains  two  ambos  or  reading-desks ,  and  an  arehiepiscopal 
throne,  richly  decorated  with  mosaic  by  Giovanni  of  Procida.  On  the  right  are 
two  antique  sarcophagi  .with  Bacchanalian  representations,  now  used  as 
burial-places  for  archbishops.  The  'Crypt  beneath,  richly  decorated  with 
marble  and  mosaics,  is  said  to  contain  the  remains  of  the  Evangelist,  St.  Mat- 
thew, brought  here  from  the  East  in  U30.  In  theN.  aisle  is  the  :,Tomb  of  Mar- 
garet of  Anjon,  wife  of  Charles  of  Durazzo  and  mother  of  Ladislaus  and  Jo- 
hanna II.;  then  the  tombs  of  Sigelgaita,  second  wife  of  Robert  Guiscard, 
of  their  son  Roger  Bursa,  and  of  William,  son  of  the  latter,  with  whom 
the  direct  line  of  the  Norman  dukes  became  extinct.  —  The  chapel  to  the 
right  by  the  high  altar  contains  the  tomb  of  Hildebrand,  afterwards  Pope 
Gregory  VII.,  who  died  here  on  25th  May,  1085,  after  he  had  been  banished 
from  Uuaie  by  Henry  IV.  The  monument  was  restored  in  1578  by  Arch- 
bishop Colonna,  and  furnished  with  an  inscription.  The  monument  of 
Archbishop  Carafa  is  adorned  with  a  relief  from  Pgestum  :  Rape  of  Proserpine. 
In  front  of  a  side-altar  is  the  stump  of  a  column,  on  which  three  saints 
are  said  to  have  been  beheaded.  The  choir  contains  a  pavement  and 
balustrade  of  ancient  mosaic  and  two  columns  of  verde  antico.  On  the 
altar  in  the  Sacristy  (in  the  N.  transept) :  "Scenes  from  the  Old  and 
New  Testament,  on  numerous  carved  ivory  tablets,  dating  from  1200. 

In  iS.  Lorenzo  frescoes  by  Andrea  Sabbatlni  have  recently  been 
discovered  under  the  whitewash. 

On  the  hill  (900  ft.  J  lie  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Gustle  of  the 
Lombard  princes,  which  was  taken  by  Robert  Guiscard  after  a  siege 
of  eight  months.  The  view  repays  the  ascent.  (A  little  beyond  the 
cathedral  we  turn  to  the  right;  farther  up,  the  path  becomes  steep; 
at  the  top,  3/4  hr.,  is  a  cottage ;   fee  of  a  few  soldi.  J 

The  train  as  it  proceeds  affords  a  charming  view  of  the  bay  to 
the  right,  and  of  the  mountains  to  the  left.  39  M.  Pontecagnano ; 
44  M.  Bellizzi;  45y.2  M.  Battipaglia ,  whence  two  great  routes  di- 
verge ,  one  to  Calabria  ( R.  20)  ,  and  the  other,  descending  and 
skirting  the  coast,  to  Pajstum  (see  below). 

491/a  M.  Eboli  (^Albergo  del  Vozzo,  on  the  road,  about  200  paces 
from  the  town,  also  the  diligence-office),  a  town  with  9000  inhab., 
situated  on  the  hill-side,  with  an  old  chateau  of  the  Prince  of  An- 
gri,  enjoys  a  fine  view  of  the  sea,  the  oak-forest  of  Persano,  the 
towns  at  the  foot  of  the  Monte  Alburno  ,  the  temples  of  Psestum, 
and  the  valley  of  the  Sele,  the  ancient  Silarus.  From  Kboli  to 
Prestum,  see  below.  — •  Continuation  of  the  railway,  see  R.  19. 


Paestum. 

From  Salerno.  An  excursion  to  Pffistum  is  most  conveniently  made 
from  Salerno,  where  the  previous  night  has  been  spent.  Distance  26  M., 
a  drive  of  4  hrs.  Most  travellers,  however,  take  the  early  train  to  BtMi- 
paglia  (li1/*  M.,  in  41  min. ;  fares  2  fr.  10,  1  fr.  50,  85  c.  ;  return-tickets 
'6  fr.  75,  2  fr.  65  c. ),  to  which  they  send  a  carriage  from  Salerno  to  await 
their  arrival.     The  drive    thence   to  Pa'st.um  takes    little  more  than  2  hrs. 


160      Route  11.  P^STUM.  History. 

Refreshments  (which  the  landlords  provide  at  3  fr.  each  person,  with 
wine)  should  be  taken  from  Salerno,  as  the  osteria  at  Psestum  is  ex- 
tremely poor,  and  the  drinking-water  had.  A  long  day  is  necessary  for 
this  excursion,  as  even  those  who  travel  by  train  to  and  from  Battipaglia 
take  6  hrs.  for  the  journey  alone;  and  4-5  hrs.  should  he  allowed  for  the 
stay  at  Pa-stum.  The  hot  summer  months  are  unfavourable  for  the  excur- 
sion owing  to  the  prevalence  of  malaria  in  this  district;  but  if  the  tra- 
veller is  not  deterred  by  this  drawback  he  is  particularly  cautioned  against 
indulging  in  sleep. 

From  Eboli  (see  above)  the  excursion  is  less  pleasant,  as  there  is  no 
good  inn  at  that  town  for  spending  the  previous  night.  Carriages  will 
iie  found  waiting  at  the  station  to  meet  the  early  train  from  Naples,  but 
most  travellers  will  dislike  to  delay  the  hiring  of  their  carriage  and  the 
attendant  bargaining  till  this  stage  of  the  journey.  (Carriage  with  two 
horses  15-18  fr. ;  corricolo  for  one ,  or  at  most  two  persons ,  8-10  fr. ; 
a  stipulation  should  be  made  that  the  driver  admit  no  other  passenger.) 
Distance  from  Eboli  to  Psestum  10  M.,  a  drive  of  2l/t  hrs. 

By  Water.  In  fine  weather  the  excursion  may  also  be  made  from 
Salerno  by  boat  (p.  158).  Travellers  land  at  the  influx  of  the  Salso,  about 
l1^  M.  from  the  ruins. 

In  winter  parties  (p.  26)  are  frequently  formed  at  Naples  for  the  pur- 
pose of  visiting  Psestum.  See  advertisements  at  the  hotels.  A  party  of 
three  or  four  friends,  however,  will  perform  the  journey  as  cheaply  and 
more  pleasantly. 

From  Salerno  our  route  is  by  the  great  Calabrian  road  as  far 
as  fl'^Y-T  M.)  Battipaglia  on  the  Tusciano.  It  then  turns  to  the  S. 
and  traverses  marshy  plains,  enlivened  only  by  a  few  herds  of  buf- 
faloes and  other  cattle.  Agriculture,  however,  has  been  making 
some  progress  here  of  late  years,  and  the  malaria  is  diminishing  in 
consequence.  About  6  M.  beyond  Battipaglia  our  road  is  joined 
by  that  from  Eboli  (7[/->  M.  distant"),  which  skirts  the  oak-forest  of 
Persano  for  some  distance.  About  l'/o  M.  farther  the  road  crosses 
the  impetuous  river  Sele ,  the  ancient  Silarus,  by  a  stone  bridge 
which  has  frequently  been  rebuilt.  This  used  to  be  considered 
the  most  dangerous  part  of  the  road  in  1860-70,  when  the  neigh- 
bourhood was  haunted  by  the  daring  brigand  Manzi.  Above  the 
road,  on  the  left,  are  Capaceio  Vecchio  and  Nuovo.  The  carriage 
drives  through  the  old  gate  between  the  town  wails,  passing  the 
Temple  of  Ceres  and  several  poor  hovels,  and  stops  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Temple  of  Neptune.  The  custodian  is  under  the  control  of 
the  same  authorities  as  the  guides  at  Pompeii  (1  fr.  on  leaving). 

Psestum,  according  to  Strabo,  was  founded  by  Greeks  from  Sybaris 
about  the  year  B.C.  600,  and  its  ancient  name  of  Poseidonia  (city  of 
Neptune)  sufficiently  indicates  its  Greek  origin.  In  the  4th  cent,  the 
town  was  in  possession  of  the  Lucanians  who  oppressed  the  inhabit- 
ants ;  and  at  that  period  the  citizens  used  to  celebrate  a  festival  an- 
nually in  memory  of  their  Greek  origin  and  their  former  prosperity. 
After  the  defeat  of  Pyrrhus ,  Poseidonia  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
liomans,  who  in  B.C.  273  founded  the  colony  of  Paestum  here.  Jn 
the  war  against  Hannibal  the  town  remained  faithful  to  Rome.  At 
a  later  period  it  gradually  fell  to  decay,  and  as  early  as  the  reign  of 
Augustus  was  notorious  for  its  malarious  air.  Christianity  took  root 
here  at  an  early  period.    When  the  Saracens  devastated  Paestum  in 


Temple  of  Neptune.  PjE.STUM.  11.  Route.      161 

the  9th  cent.,  the  inhabitants  fled  with  their  bishop  to  the  neigh- 
bouring heights,  and  there  founded  Capaccio  Ver.rhio.  In  the  11th 
cent,  the  deserted  town  was  despoiled  by  Robert  Guiscard  of  its 
monuments  and  sculptures,  and  remained  in  this  desolate  condition 
for  many  centuries,  till  in  modern  times  attention  was  again 
directed  to  the  antiquities  still  remaining.  Those  who  appreciate 
the  simple  majesty  of  Greek  architecture  should  endeavour ,  if 
possible,   before  quitting  Naples,   to  pay  a  visit  to  Pactum. 

The  ancient  Town  Walls,  forming  an  irregular  pentagon,  on 
the  river  Salso,  not  far  from  the  coast,  about  3  M.  in  circum- 
ference, constructed  of  blocks  of  travertine,  are  preserved  al- 
most entire;  also  a  gate  on  the  E.  side  towards  the  mountains, 
with  two  bas-reliefs  on  the  key-stones  representing  dolphins  and 
sirens.  Outside  the  latter  are  fragments  of  an  aqueduct,  the  pave- 
ment of  the  road,  and  several  towers.  Without  the  N.  gate,  by 
which  we  enter  the  town,  was  a  Street  of  Tombs.  Several  of  those 
which  have  been  opened  contained  Greek  weapons ;  and  in  one  of 
them,  examined  in  1854,  were  found  fine  mural  paintings,  repre- 
senting warriors  taking  leave  of  their  friends.  Most  of  the  ob- 
jects discovered  in  the  course  of  the  excavations,  which  are  still 
continued,  are  preserved  in  the  Museum  at  Naples  (p.  65),  but 
a  few  are  also  shown  at  the  neighbouring  Villa  Bellelli. 

The  Temples  at  Pa?stum,  built  in  the  ancient  Greek  style,  are, 
with  the  single  exception  of  those  at  Athens,  the  finest  existing 
monuments  of  the  kind.  They  are  three  in  number.  The  largest 
and  most  beautiful  is  that  in  the  centre,  the  so-called  ** Temple 
of  Neptune,  63yds.  in  length,  and  28yds.  in  width.  At  each  end 
are  six  massive,  fluted  Doric  columns.  28  ft.  in  height;  on  each 
side  twelve,  in  all  thirty-six  columns  of  T'/o  ft.  in  diameter,  all 
well-preserved.  In  the  interior  of  the  Cella  are  two  series  of  eight 
columns  each  (about  6  ft.  in  diameter),  with  a  second  row  of 
smaller  columns  above,  which  supported  the  roof.  The  latter  are 
preserved  on  one  side  only.  The  stone  is  a  kind  of  travertine,  to 
which  age  has  imparted  a  mellow  tone.  It  contains  fossil  reeds 
and  aquatic  plants.  The  whole  was  once  covered  with  stucco,  in 
order  to  conceal  the  imperfections  of  the  stone.  The  temple  was 
a  hypjethron ,  i.  e.,  the  cella,  where  the  image  stood,  was  un- 
covered. The  proportions  of  the  symmetrically  tapering  columns, 
whether  viewed  from  the  vicinity  or  from  a  distance,  are  perfect. 
This  temple,  as  its  whole  character  betokens,  is  one  of  the  most 
ancient  specimens  of  Greek  art.  Photographs  and  models  of  it 
are  frequently  seen  (comp.  Introd.,  p.  xxvii).  A  stone  basis  in 
front  of  the  E.  facade  probably  belonged  to  a  large  sacrificial  altar. 

A  little  to  the  S.  rises  the  second  temple,  the  so-called  *Basi- 
lica  (a  misnomer),  of  more  recent  origin,  but  also  of  great  an- 
tiquity. It  is  59  yds.  in  length,  am^G'/oyds.  in  width,  and  its 
fifty  columns  are  each  61/;;  ft.  in  diameter ,  but  its  proportions  are 

BAEDEKtfP        Ttalir   ITT        dtl,    OJ":.-  J| 


162      Route  11.  PiESTUM.  From  Naples 

less  majestic  than  those  of  the  temple  of  Neptune.  At  each  end 
are  nine  columns ,  and  on  each  side  sixteen ,  all  of  travertine 
stone.  The  shafts  of  the  columns  taper  upwards  in  a  curve  ;  the 
capitals  are  of  a  peculiar  form  -which  does  not  occur  elsewhere.  A 
series  of  columns  in  the  central  long  wall,  by  a  singular  arrange- 
ment, divided  the  temple  into  two  halves  ,  so  that  it  contained 
two   xellte'. 

In  front  of  these  temples  probably  extended  the  Forum  of 
the  ancient  town ,  basements  for  altars  or  statues  being  still 
distinguishable  here. 

Farther  N.,  near  the  entrance  from  Salerno,  stands  the  small 
*  Temple  of  Ceres ,  or  of  Vesta  according  to  others ,  with  a 
peristyle  of  thirty-four  columns,  six  at  each  end,  and  eleven  on 
each  side.  Length  35  yds.,  width  15  yds.  ;  columns  5  ft.  in  diameter, 
tapering  upwards  in  straight  lines.  The  columns  of  the  vestibule 
are  distinguished  from  those  of  the  principal  part  of  the  structure 
by  the  difference  of  the  fluting.  This  temple  is  another  fine  ex- 
ample of  the  simple  and  majestic  Greek  style.  (A  few  soldi  to 
the  doorkeeper.) 

Between  the  Temple  of  Ceres  and  that  of  Neptune  a  few  frag- 
ments of  Roman  building  have  been  discovered,  a  Theatre  and 
Amphitheatre,  it  is  believed.  The  latter  is  intersected  by  the 
road.  A  Roman  Temple  was  also  discovered  here  in  LS30. 
Concealed  among  the  underwood  near  it  are  two  metops,  adorned 
with  high  reliefs.  These  remains,  however,  are  insignificant 
compared  with  the  ruins  above  mentioned.  Of  the  'rose-gardens' 
of  Piestum,  so  much  extolled  by  Roman  poets,  no  traces  now  exist. 
The  temples  are  adorned  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  ferns  and 
acanthus,  enlivened  solely  by  the  chirping  grasshopper,  the  rustl- 
ing lizard,  and  the  gliding  snake. 

A  walk  on  the  town-wall,  perhaps  from  the  X.  gate  round  the 
E.  side  to  the  S.  gate,  towards  Salerno,  will  enable  the  traveller, 
better  than  a  close  inspection ,  to  form  an  idea  of  the  imposing 
grandeur  of  these  venerable  ruins.  The  finest  general  *  View  of 
the  temples  is  obtained  from  the  terrace  of  the  first  tower  to  the 
E.  of  the  road,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town-wall. 


Amalfi. 

From  Sorrento  to  Amalii  ,  see  p.  106.  From  (Jastcllamare  to  Amalfi 
by  the  Little  St.  Angel",  sec  p.   167. 

FituM  Faoani  ( |>7  156)  a  bridle-path  ascends  Monte  Chiinno,  the  height 
to  the  \V.  of  Mimli-  Albino.  Xcar  Torre  di  t'/tiiiino,  an  ancient  fortress 
erected  by  Raimondi  Orsini,  the  path  divides  :  that  to  the  left  leads  through 
the  Yal  Tranumli  by  F'njlino  and  I'alerno  to  Alaiori  (see  below);  that 
to  the  right  by  ('tipiti ,  t'esuriiiio ,  and  firala  to  At  rani  (p.  163).  Each  of 
these  routes  is  a  walk  of  5  G  lira.,  but  neither  should  be  undertaken  without 
previous  enquiries  as  to  the  state  of  the  country. 

The  llion  ItoAti  1-kii.m  Salekno  to  Amali'I,  a'/i.W.,  is  the  linest  route 
of  all  (.by    carriage    iu   l'|V2   Ins.).     This    magnilicent    road,    completed  in 


to  Amalfi.  AMALFI.  11.  Route.    163 

1852,  hewn  in  the  cliffs  of  the  coast,  and  frequently  supported  by  galleries 
and  vast  viaducts  100-500  ft.  above  the  sea-level ,  skirts  the  coast ,  pass- 
ing through  thriving  villages,  and  affording  a  succession  of  charming  land- 
scapes. The  slopes  are  generally  somewhat  bare,  but  are  in  many  places 
laid  out  in  terraces,  and  planted  with  vines,  olives,  lemons,  and  fruit-trees. 
The  promontories  of  the  coast  are  occupied  by  massive  square  watch- 
towers,  erected  under  Charles  V.  as  a  protection  against  pirates ,  now 
converted  into  dwellings.  This  route  is  still  more  attractive  than  that 
from  Castellamare  to  Sorrento. 

From  Salerno  the  road  ascends,  and  near  Vietri  (p.  157)  crosses 
trie  valley  by  a  stone  bridge.  To  the  left  in  the  sea  rise  two 
conical  rocks,  I  Due  Fratelli.  On  the  hill  to  the  right  is  Ratto. 
The  next  place  is  the  picturesquely  situated  fishing-village  of 
Cetara,  extending  along  the  bottom  of  a  narrow  ravine ;  it  is 
frequently  mentioned  in  the  history  of  the  invasions  of  the  Sara- 
cens, and  was  the  first  place  where  they  settled.  The  road  now 
ascends  to  the  Capo  Tumolo,  whence  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the 
coast  on  both  sides  is  enjoyed,  and  descends  thence  by  the  Capo 
d'Orso,  where  the  fleet  of  Charles  V.  was  defeated  by  Filippino 
Doria,   to  the  small  town  of  — 

Maiori,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Val  Tramonti  (see  above),  with 
terraced  lemon-plantations,  at  the  base  of  the  ruined  monastery 
of  Camaldoli  dell'  Avvocata  (founded  in  1485).  Still  higher  lie 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  of  S.  Nicola,  of  which  the  Fic- 
colomini  were  the  last  proprietors.  The  road  ascends  slightly  to 
the  next  village  of  Minori,  nearly  adjoining  which  are  Atrani  and 
Amalfi. 

Minori ,  a  clean  little  village,  -with  lemon-gardens,  most  beau- 
tifully situated,  once  the  arsenal  of  Amalfi,  lies  at  the  mouth  of 
the  sometimes  turbulent  Reyinolo. 

Atrani  lies  at  the  entrance  to  a  ravine,  on  each  side  of  which 
the  houses  rise  picturesquely.  The  church  of  S.  Salvatore  di 
Biretto  contains  handsome  bronze  doors ,  of  Byzantine  work- 
manship of  the  11th  cent.,  monuments  of  the  Doges  of  Amalfi, 
and  others  of  the  Saracenic  period.  Above  Atrani  is  the  vil- 
lage of  Pontone;  farther  on,  to  the  left,  lies  Ravello  (p.  105). 

Near  Pontone  is  the  house  where  Masaniello  (i.  e.  Tommaso  Aniello, 
son  of  Cecco  d'Amalfi  and  Antonia  Gargano)  is  said  to  have  been  born  in 
1620.  On  7th  July,  1647,  he  headed  a  formidable  insurrection  at  Naples 
against  the  Spaniards,  but,  after  a  short  period  of  success,  fell  into  a 
kind  of  insanity,  and  on  17th  July  was  shot  in  the  pulpit  of  a  church 
by  one  of  his  former  adherents.  These  events  have  been  dramatised  by 
Auber,    the  composer. 

A  lofty  rocky  eminence  ,  bearing  the  extensive  ruins  of  the 
castle  of  Pontone,   separates  Atrani  from  Amalfi. 

Amalfi..  —  "Albergo  dei  Cappuucini  ,  on  the  Marina,  small,  good 
cuisine,  R.  3,  B.  2,  I).  5,  A.  1  fr. ;  a  quieter  house  is  the  'Albeiioo  della 
Luna  ,  formerly  a  monastery ,  charmingly  situated  between  Atrani  and 
Amalfi,  similar  charges ;    pension  at  both. 

Boats  l'|2-l3|4  fr.  per  hour;  to  Scaricatqjo  (p.  167)  with  2  rowers 
7-8  fr. ;  to  Capri  in  about  6  hrs.  with  4-6  rowers  20-25  fr. ;  lo  Sorrento 
with  4-0  rowers  30-45  fr. ;  to  Salerno  with  2  rowers  6-S  fr. 

11* 


164      Route  11.  AMALFI.  From  Naples 

Donkey  per  hour  l-l'|i;  to  Castellamare  by  the  Little  S.  Angelo  5-6  fr. 

Guide  among  the  tortuous  lanes,  with  their  frequent  flights  of  steps, 
necessary  only  when  time  is  very  limited ;  for  a  visit  to  the  cathedral, 
mill-valley,  and  Capuchin  monastery  l1|2-2,  whole  day  5  fr. 

Amalfi,  a  small  town  with  6900  inhab. ,  whose  chief  occu- 
pations are  the  manufacture  of  paper,  soap,  and  maccaroni,  is 
situated  at  the  entrance  of  a  deep  ravine,  surrounded  by  imposing- 
mountains  and  rocks  of  the  most  picturesque  forms.  In  the  early 
part  of  the  middle  ages ,  it  was  a  prosperous  seaport ,  rivalling 
Pisa  and  Genoa,   and  numbered  50,000  inhabitants. 

Amalfi  is  mentioned  for  the  first  time  in  the 6th cent.,  whenitenjoyed  the 
protection  of  the  Eastern  emperors  ;  it  afterwards  became  an  independent 
state,  under  the  presidency  of  a  'doge'.  The  town  was  continually  at 
variance  with  the  neighbouring  princes  of  Salerno,  and  even  defied  the 
Norman  sovereigns  of  Naples,  till  King  Roger  reduced  the  place  in  1131. 
United  with  the  royal  forces,  Amalfi  carried  on  a  war  with  the  Pisans ; 
and  it  was  during  this  struggle  that  the  celebrated  MS.  of  the  Pandects  of 
Justinian,  now  one  of  the  principal  treasures  of  the  Laurentian  library  at 
Florence,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Pisans.  The  place  then  became  subject 
to  the  kings  of  the  houses  of  Anjou  and  Arragon.  In  the  12th  cent,  the 
sea  began  gradually  to  undermine  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  and  a  ter- 
rible inundation  in  1343  proved  still  more  disastrous.  After  that  period 
Amalfi  steadily  declined.  The  town  boasts  of  having  given  birth  to 
Flavio  Gioja,  who  is  said  to  have  invented  the  compass  here  in  1302, 
but  he  was  probably  the  author  of  some  improvement  only,  as  the 
instrument  was  in  use  among  the  Chinese  in  the  early  centuries  of  the 
Christian  era. 

From  the  Marina  a  short  street  leads  past  the  Albergo  dei 
Cappuccini  to  the  small  Piazza,  on  the  right  side  of  which  rises  the 
cathedral.  The  entrance  adjoining  the  crypt  (see  below)  may 
also  he  reached  by  the  steps  to  the  right  of  the  fountain  on  the 
Marina. 

The  *Cattedhale  S.  Andrea,  approached  from  the  Piazza  by 
a  broad  flight  of  steps,  is  still,  in  spite  of  modern  alterations, 
an  interesting  structure  of  the  11th  cent.,  in  the  Lombard  Nor- 
man style.  The  portal ,  built  of  alternate  courses  of  black  and 
white  stone,  and  resting  on  seven  antique  columns  from  Pastum 
and  several  buttresses ,  having  become  insecure ,  was  removed 
in  1865,  but  has  since  been  re-erected.  —  The  campanile  dates 
from   1276. 

The  Bronze  Doors,  executed  by  Byzantine  masters  in  the  11th  cent., 
bear  two  inscriptions  in  silver  letters,  one  of  which  runs  thus :  'Hoc 
opus  fieri  jussit  pro  redemptione  anim<e  supe  Pantaleo  filius  Mauri  de 
Pantaleone    de  Mauro  de  Maimme  Comite\ 

The  *Interiok  consists  of  a  nave  and  two  aisles,  with  a  series  of 
chapels  on  each  side.  Behind  the  chapels  on  the  N.  side  is  a  third  aisle, 
connected  with  the  N.  aisle  by  several  entrances.  On  the  left,  close  to 
the  principal  entrance,  is  an  ancient  vase  of  porphyry,  formerly  used  as  a 
font.  Near  this,  to  the  left,  in  the  first  passage  to  the  outer  aisle,  are 
two  ancient,  sarcophagi  with  sculptures,  unfortunately  damaged,  supposed 
to  represent  the  Rape  of  Proserpine,  and  the  Nuptials  of  Peieus  and  Thetis 
(according  to  others,  the  marriage  of  Theseus  and  Ariadne);  a  third  bears 
the  inscription:  'Hie  intus  homo  verus  certus  optumus  recumbo  Quintus 
Fabritius  Rul'us  nobilis  deeurio'  —  The  choir  contains  ancient  columns 
decorated  with  mosaic  from  Paestum.  —  From  the  S.  aisle  a  flight  of  steps 
descends  to  Hie  CitYi-i  (verger  20c. ),  where  the  body  ofthe  apostle  St.  Andrew 


to  Amalfl..  RAVELLO.  11.  Route.      165 

is  said  to  have  reposed  since  the  13th  cent,  when  it  was  brought  hither 
from  Constantinople.  The  relics,  from  which  an  oily  matter  (manna  di 
S.  Andrea)  of  miraculous  power  is  said  to  exude,  attract  numerous  de- 
votees. The  colossal  statue  of  the  saint  by  Midiael  Aiigelo  JH'arcarii/o  was 
presented  by  Philip  III.  of  Spain.  The  altar  was  executed  from  a  design 
by  Dormnico  Fonlana.  —  The  cloisters  contain  an  ancient  Christian  relief  of 
the  Twelve  Apostles,  and  a  Madonna  of  more  recent  date. 

From  the  Piazza,  opposite  the  cathedral,  the  Supportico  Fer- 
rari leads  lis  to  a  small  piazza ,  in  the  left  corner  of  which  we 
ascend  the  steps  under  the  house  to  the  right.  After  43  steps 
we  turn  to  the  left  and  ascend  the  covered  flight  of  steps,  at 
the  top  of  which ,  high  ahove  the  sea  ,  our  route  is  level  for  a 
little  way.  After  another  ascent  we  at  length  reach  (i/4  hr.) 
the  *Capuchin  Monastery,  which  was  founded  by  Cardinal  Pietro 
Capuano  for  the  Cistercians,  but  came  into  possession  of  the  Ca- 
puchins in  1583,  and  is  now  a  naval  school.  The  building  stands 
in  the  hollow  of  a  rock  which  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea  to  a 
height  of  '230  ft.  It  contains  fine  cloisters,  a  charming  verandah, 
and  magnificent  points  of  view.  A  large  grotto  to  the  left,  for- 
merly used  as  a  Calvary,  or  series  of  devotional  stations ,  com- 
mands a  prospect  towards  the  E.   (fee  25  c). 

A  cool  and  pleasant  *¥alk  may  be  taken  in  the  narrow 
Valle  de'  Molini,  or  mill-valley,  at  the  back  of  Amalfl ,  which 
contains  sixteen  paper-mills  driven  by  the  brook.  (From  the 
Piazza  we  follow  the  main  street,  which  ends  in  4  min.;  we 
then  go  straight  on  through  the  Porta  dell'  Ospedale,  a  covered 
passage  opposite  the  fountain.)  On  the  right  rise  lofty  cliffs, 
crowned  by  the  ruins  of  the  Castetlo  Pontone.  The  solitary 
tower  dates  from  the  time  of  Oueen  Johanna.  —  To  Amalfl 
belong  the  five  villages  of  Pogerola ,  Pastina ,  Lene ,  Vettica 
Minore,  and  Tovere,  all  situated  to  the  W.  of  the  town  in  a 
district  which  yields  wine ,  oil,  and  fruit  in  abundance.  The 
coast  is  overgrown  with  the  aloe  and  cactus  opuntia. 

From  A^alfi  to  Ravello,  an  ascent  of  V/t  hr.  (donkey  2  fr.  ; 
guide  2-3  fr.,  unnecessary),  a  most  attractive  exoursion,  affording 
beautiful  views ,  and  interesting  also  to  the  student  of  art ,  partic- 
ularly if  as  yet  unacquainted  with  Moorish  architecture. 

We  return  to  Atrani;  beyond  the  viaduct  and  the  projecting  rock 
round  which  the  road  leads  we  ascend  a  broad  flight  of  steps  to  the  left ; 
cross  the  small  Largo  lluddalena  in  front  of  the  church  of  that  name: 
turn  to  the  right  and  go  on  in  the  same  direction,  passing  through  several 
covered  lanes,  ascending  steps,  and  sometimes  descending.  Farther  on, 
we  skirt  the  right  (E.)  slope  of  the  valley,  ascend  in  windings,  and  at 
length  pass  through  a  gateway  to  the  piazza  in  front  of  the  cathedral  of 
ttavello. 

Ravello,  a  celebrated  old  town  in  a  lofty  situation  ,  when  in 
the  zenith  of  its  prosperity  possessed  thirteen  churches,  four  mon- 
asteries, numerous  palaces,  and  a  population  of  36,000  souls,  but 
now  numbers  1800  inhabitants  only. 

The  *  Cathedral,  founded  in  the  11th  cent.,  is  almost  entirely 
modernised.    The  bronze  doors,   with  numerous  figures  of  saints. 


166      Routt  11.  RAVELI.O. 

date  from  L 179.  The  magnificent  *Ambo,  in  marble,  embellished 
with  mosaics,  was  presented  in  1272;  it  rests  on  six  columns  sup- 
ported by  lions  ;  inscription,  'Nicolaus  de  Fogia  marmorarius  hoc 
opus  fecit'.  Opposite  to  it  is  the  pulpit,  in  a  simpler  style, 
with  a  representation  of  Jonah  being  swallowed  by  the  whale. 
In  the  choir  is  the  episcopal  throne,  adorned  with  mosaics.  On 
the  left  is  the  Cappella  di  S.  Pantaleone  ,  containing  the  blood  of 
the  saint.  In  the  Sacristy  is  a  Madonna  by  Andrea  Sabattini  of 
Salerno. 

Turning  to  the  left  on  leaving  the  cathedral ,  passing  the  foun- 
tain,  and  walking  for  100  paces  between  garden-walls,  we  reach 
the  entrance  to  the  *  Palazzo  Rufalo  (visitors  ring  a  bell  on  the 
right),  now  the  property  of  a  Mr.  Reid.  This  edifice,  built  in  the 
Saracenic  style  and  dating  from  the  12th  cent.,  was  once  occupied 
by  Pope  Adrian  IV.,  King  Charles  II.,  and  Robert  the  Wise.  In 
the  centre  is  a  small,  fantastic  court  with  a  colonnade.  The  gate- 
way has  a  Saracenic  dome.  A  verandah  in  the  garden  (1115  ft.  above 
the  sea-level)  commands  a  delightful  *view  (a  contribution  for  the 
poor  of  the  place  is  expected ;   gardener  i/.>  fr.). 

Returning  to  the  piazza  and  ascending  a  lane  to  the  left  of  the 
cathedral,  we  come  in  5  min.  to  the* church  of  8.  Giovanni,  a  mod- 
ernised basilica  borne  by  columns ,  and  containing  a  fine  old 
pulpit.  —  The  adjacent  garden  (1220  ft.  above  the  sea),  formerly 
the  property  of  the  d'Afflitto  family,  affords  a  fine  *view  of  the 
valley  of  Minori ,  of  the  small  town  of  that  name  at  its  mouth, 
and  of  the  more  distant  Maiori  and  the  Capo  Tumolo  beyond 
it  (fee  of  a  few  soldi;   refreshments  to  be  had). 

8.  Maria  Immacolata  is  a  picturesque  little  church. 

Another  point  commanding  a  very  extensive  view  is  the  Bel- 
vedere Cembrone.  Passing  in  front  of  the  cathedral,  we  go  straight 
through  a  gateway,  turn  to  the  left  after  8  min..  pass  the  portal  of 
the  church  of  8.  Chiara,  reach  a  door  on  the  left,  and  walk  straight 
through  the  garden.  ■ —  Other  picturesque  points  in  the  environs 
may  be  visited  if  time  permits. 

Our  excursion  to  Amalft  may  be  pleasantly  extended  by  2-3 
hrs.  by  visiting  Srrdu ,  a  village  with  an  episcopal  church  and  the 
ruined  castle  of  Scaletta,  and  Pontone ,  and  descending  thence 
to  the  mill-valley.  This  is  an  interesting,  but  fatiguing  walk. 
A  donkey  should  not  be  taken  farther  than  Ravello,  as  riding  is 
scarcely  practicable  beyond  it. 

From  Ajialpi  to  Sorrento  the  best  route  is  by  water  as  far  as  Posi- 
tano,  or  better  still  Scaricatojo  f2-2l|«  hrs.),  and  thence  on  foot  or  donkey- 
back  across  the  hills  (from   l'ositano  4'|t,  from  Scaricatojo  2I/*2-3  hrs.). 

The  voyage  (boats ,  see  p.  163)  alone;  the  picturesque  coast  (costiera 
orriilf'i/lnle) ,  passing  the  promontory  of  Coiica ,  the  precipitous  cliffs  of 
Fiirufi' ,  the  village  of  Prajuno  with  its  luxuriant  vines  and  olives,  and 
Vfllirtt  Mayrjiore  in  the  vicinity,  is  very  beautiful.  In  about  2  hrs.  we  reach  — 

Fositano,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  mountain-slopes,  with  2600 
inhab.  ,    an    important   harbour   during    the    Anjou    dynasty.      Many  of  the 


LITTLE  ST.  ANGELO.         11.  Route.       167 

natives  <>f  this  place  (like  those,  of  Seeondigliano  and  Montemurro)  leave 
their  homes  and  travel  through  the  ex-kingdom  of  Naples  as  hawkers. 
They  assemble  at  their  native  places  annually  to  celebrate  their  principal 
church-festival,  and  again  return  thither  in  later  life  to  spend  their 
declining  years.  "With  the  exception  of  a  few  boatmen  ,  the  population 
therefore  consists  chiefly  of  old  men,  women,  and  children. 

[From  Positano  to  Sorrento  4^4  hrs.  (guide  advisable,  2-3  fr.).  The 
route  ascends  for  nearly  I'jz  hr.,  and  at  the  top  of  the  hill  inclines  to  the 
left.  It  then  leads  through  (40  rain.)  Piccirnto ,  (20  min.)  Preazzano ,  and 
Fornacelle,  and  passes  to  the  right  of  the  hill  on  which  the  yellow  build- 
ing of  Camaldoli  di  Meta  (p.  150)  lies.  The  next  places  are  Art  ore  and 
(1  hr.)  Meta  (p.   146),   wlience  Sorrento  is  2  M.  distant  by  the  high  road-1 

The  voyage  to  Lo  Scaricatojo  only  takes  l[z  hr.  more  than  the  passage 
to  Positano,  although  situated  much  farther  to  the  W.,  as  (he  boat  steers 
from  the  Capo  Sottile  straight  across  the  bay.  The  landing  at  Scaricatojo 
is  not  very  easy ,  especially  if  the  sea  is  at  all  rough ,  in  which  case  the 
boatmen  generally  propose  to  go  to  Positano  instead.  The  traveller  may, 
however,  prefer  going  direct  to  Scaricatojo,  and  if  he  finds  the  landing 
impracticable  he  may  then  return  to  Positano. 

From  Scaricatojo  to  Sorrento  ((21j2-3  hrs. ;  guide  desirable).  The 
path  ascends,  at  first  by  steps  in  the  rocks,  to  the  (l1^  hr.)  heights  of 
the  Conli  di  Geremenna,  where  there  are  several  scattered  houses.  Wc 
follow  the  path  in  a  straight  direction,  avoiding  that  to  the  left.  Im- 
mediately after  crossing  the  crest  of  the  hill,  we  obtain  a  view  of  the  Bay 
of  Naples,  Capri,  Ischia,  and  Procida.  After  5  min.  we  go  straight  on, 
avoiding  the  stony  path  to  the  left ;  after  25  min.,  nearly  at  the  base  of 
the  hill,  the  unpaved  path  leads  to  the  right  between  walls;  after  5  min., 
to  the  left;  after  5  min.  more,  to  the  left  by  the  narrow  path  to  Sorrento 
(to  the  right  to  Oarotto,  p.  146) ;  again,  after  5  min.,  to  the  left  between 
walls,  and  then  by  the  high  road  to  the  left;  25  min.,  Hotel  Bellevue 
(p.   146);  i|4  hr.  Sorrento  (p.  146). 

From  Amalfi  to  Castellamare  over  the  Little  S.  Angelo  (7  hrs. ;  don- 
keys, see  p.  KU).  a  fatiguing  walk  which  hardly  repays  the  trouble,  as 
an  unobstructed  view  is  seldom  obtained.  Enquiry,  moreover,  should  be 
made  before  starting  as  to  the  safety  of  the  route.  The  path  leads  by 
Pastina  and  Vettica  Minore  in  the  Val  Vettica ,  a  picturesque  ravine. 
Farther  on,  to  the  left,  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  slope,  lies  County 
consisting  of  a  few  scattered  houses,  where  the  long  Punta  di  Covra 
extends  into  the  sea.  The  path,  now  steep  and  unshaded,  next  leads  in 
]|a  hr.  to  >S'.  Lataio,  a  fort  with  a  small  garrison,  and  the  finest  point 
on  the  route,  which  will  repay  a  visit,  from  Amalfi.  The  terrace  below 
commands  a  strikingly  beautiful  survey  of  the  fertile  coast  as  far  as  Po- 
sitano (p.  166);  to  the  N.  rises  the  Monte  S.  Angelo  (p.  145).  Beyond  the 
fort  the  path,  shaded  by  walnut  and  cherry-trees,  and  leading  partly  through 
wood,  ascends  by  Agerola  to  the  top  of  the  pass  of  S.  Angelo  a  Guida. 
On  the  summit  we  traverse  a  wild  district;  to  the  left  is  the  crest  of  La 
Par  at  a,  to  the  right  the  slight  eminence  of  Piano  di  Per  Mo ,  overgrown 
with  brushwood.  From  the  summit  to  (3  hrs.)  Gragitano  a  fatiguing  de- 
scent by  a  stony  and  precipitous  forest-path.  From  Oragnano  to  (3  M.) 
Castellamare.    a  dusty  high-road  (p.   145). 

12.     From  Naples  to  Nola  and  Avellino. 

From  Cancello,  a  station  on  the  Naples  and  Hume  railway,  a  branch- 
line  runs  to  Kola,  and  skirts  the  Apennines  to  Avellino,  but  is  at  present 
only  open  as  far  as  Laura  (44  31.  from  Naples).  From  "Naples  to  Kola 
four  trains  daily  in  l^-l-fy  hr.  ;  fares  3  fr.  20,  2  fr. ,  1  fr.  ;  from  Naples 
to  Laura  three  trains  in  23|4  hrs.  ;  faros  6  fr.  55  c,  4  fr.  10  c,  2  fr.  —  As- 
cent hence  to  Avellino  by  diligence  or  carriage  in  1  hr. 

From  Naples  to   Cancello,   13  M.,   see  p.   10. 

20'/-j  M.   Nola,  with  11.400  inhab.,  an  ancient  Campanian  city, 


1()S      Route  l:>.  SAN  SEVF.RINO. 

was  almost  the  only  one  which  successfully  resisted  the  attacks  of 
Hannibal  after  the  battle  of  Cannaj ,  B.C.  216;  and  the  following 
year  its  inhabitants  under  the  command  of  the  brave  M.  Marcellus 
.succeeded  in  repulsing  the  invader.  The  Emperor  Augustus  died 
here  on  19th  Aug.  A.D.  14,  in  his  76th  year,  in  the  same  house 
and  apartment  where  his  father  Octavius  had  breathed  his  last.  In 
ancient  times  Nola  was  not  less  important  than  Pompeii.  It  is  now 
an  insignificant  place  and  devoid  of  interest.  In  the  5th  cent., 
St.  Paulinus,  an  accomplished  poet  and  Bishop  of  Nola  (b.  at  Bor- 
deaux in  354,  d.  431 ),  is  said  to  have  invented  church-bells  at  this 
Campanian  town,  whence  the  word  'campana'  is  derived.  On 
26th  July  a  festival ,  accompanied  by  processions  and  games,  is 
celebrated  in  his  honour.  In  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent,  the 
free-thinker  Giordano  Bruno  was  born  at  Nola,  who,  on  17th  Feb. 
1600.  terminated  his  eventful  career  at  the  stake  in  Rome. 
Giovanni  Mrrliano,  the  sculptor  of  Naples,  known  as  Giovanni  di 
Nola,  was  also  born  here  in  1488. 

Nola  is  celebrated  as  an  ancient  cradle  of  the  plastic  art. 
The  magnificent  vases  with  shining  black  glazing  and  skilfully 
drawn  red  figures,  which  form  the  principal  ornaments  of  the 
museums  of  Naples  and  of  other  places,  were  executed  here. 
Numerous  coins  of  Nola  with  Greek  inscriptions  have  also  been 
found.     Scanty  remains  of  an  amphitheatre  still  exist. 

About  i|s  31.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town  is  situated  the  Seminary,  where 
several  Latin  inscriptions  and  the  so-called  Cijants  Abellamts,  a  remarkable 
inscription  in  the  Osean  language  found  near  Abelhi,  are  preserved.  Above 
the  seminary  (0  min.)  is  the  Franciscan  monastery  of  S.  Ai/gelo,  command- 
ing a  view  of  the  fertile  and  luxuriant  plain  ;  to  the  left  is  Monte  Somma, 
behind  which  Vesuvius  is  concealed;  to  the  right  rise  the  mountains  of 
3laddaloni.  A  little  to  the  E.  is  a  Capuchin  monastery,  above  which  the 
ruined  castle  of  Cicala  picturesquely  crowns  an  eminence. 

To  the  W.  of  Nola  lies  (5  31.)  the  small  town  of  Arelln  ,  or  in  Latin 
Abella,  near  which  there  are  extensive  plantations  of  hazel-nut,  the  'nuces 
Avellanfe1  of  antiquity. 

25  M.  Palma,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  slopes  of  the 
Apennines  opposite  Ottajano .  with  7000  inhab.  and  an  ancient 
chateau,   is  commanded  by  an  extensive  ruined  castle  on  a  height. 

30  M.  Sarno,  a  town  with  15,400  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Samo, 
which  flows  hence  towards  Scafati  and  Pompeii.  Above  it  towers  a 
ruined  stronghold,  where  Count  Francesco  Coppola  long  maintained 
himself  during  the  conspiracy  of  the  barons  against  Ferdinand  of 
Arragon  (  1460). 

The  view  now  becomes  more  limited.  35, M.  ('odola  ;  37  M. 
San  Giorgio.  40  .\J .  San  Severino  (poor  inn),  on  the  road  from 
Avellino  to  Salerno.  The  principal  church  contains  the  tombs  of 
Tomniaso  da  San  Severino,  high  constable  of  the  kingdom  of  Naples 
in  135!!,  and  of  several  primes  of  Salerno.  A  mail  leads  from 
S.  Se\erino  to  Salerno  (about  10  \1  ;  railway  projected),  via  Baro- 
ni.ii,    the  scene  of  the  death  of  Fra  Diavolo. 


AVELLINO.  1:>.  Route.      169 

The  line  now  turns  N.  towards  (44  AI.)  stat.  Laura,  the  pre- 
sent terminus.     Carriage  thence  in  l1/^  nr-  t0  — 

Avellino  (Alberyo  a"  Italia;  *Alberyo  delle  Puylie),  with  20,500 
inhah.,  the  capital  of  a  province,  situated  on  the  old  post-road  from 
Naples  to  Foggia.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  ancient  AbelUnum, 
the  rains  of  which  are  2^2  M.  distant,  near  the  village  of  Atri- 
palda.  Another  road  leads  hence  to  (14  M.)  Montesarchio  and 
Henevento  (p.  177). 

From  Avellino  we  may  visit  Monte  Vergine,  a  famous  resort  of 
pilgrims.  The  route  is  by  (5  M. )  Mercogliano,  whence  a  mountain- 
path  leads  in  l'^hr.  to  the  shrine  of  Monte  Vergine,  founded  in 
1 119  on  the  ruins  of  a  temple  of  Cybele.  (Donkey  there  and  back, 
4  fr.  and  gratuity.) 

The  Church  contains  a  miraculous  picture  of  the  Virgin,  and  the 
tombs  of  Catherine  of  Valois,  who  caused  the  picture  to  be  brought 
hither,  and  of  her  son  Louis  of  Tavanto,  second  husband  of  Johanna  I. 
Their  effigies  repose  on  a  Human  sarcophagus.  On  the  left  side  of  the 
high  altar  is  the  chapel  erected  for  himself  by  King  Manfred,  which, 
when  that  monarch  fell  at  Benevento,  was  given  by  Charles  of  Anjou  to 
one  of  his  French  attendants. 

We  may  ascend  hence  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  ('4292  ft.}, 
commanding  a  magnificent  survey  of  the  bays  and  the  extensive 
mountainous  district.  The  abbot  and  the  older  monks  occupy  the 
Loreto,  or  I'Ospizio,  a  large  octagonal  structure  near  Mercogliano, 
erected  from  a  design  by  Vanvitelli.  The  archives  contain  important 
records  of  mediaeval  history.  Great  festivals,  attended  by  numerous 
pilgrims  in  their  gayest  costumes,  are  celebrated  here  at  Whit- 
suntide (see  p.  29). 


EASTERN  AND  SOUTHERN  DISTRICTS  OF 
S.  ITALY. 

These  parts  of  Italy  have,  until  recently,  been  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
ordinary  traveller.  The  \Y.  coast  is,  moreover,  by  far  the  richer  and  more 
picturesque,  as  well  as  more  replete  with  historical  interest.  The  E. 
districts  can  boast  of  no  such  names  as  those  of  Florence ,  Rome,  and 
Naples,  but  they  are  not  devoid  of  attraction,  and  have  been  endowed  by 
nature  with  a  considerable  share  of  the  gifts  she  has  so  bounteously 
lavished  on  other  parts  of  Italy. 

The  Apennines  ,  rising  at  a  short  distance  from  the  coast,  send  forth 
a  series  of  parallel  ramifications,  forming  a  corresponding  number  of  par- 
allel valleys,  whose  communication  with  the  external  world  is  maintained 
by  means  of  the  coast  to  which  they  descend.  To  the  S.  of  Ancona,  from 
aboxit  the  43rd  to  the  42nd  degree  of  X.  latitude,  stretch  the  Central 
Apennines,  embracing  the  three  provinces  of  the  Aliruzzi  (Citeriore,  and 
Ulteriore  I.  and  II.),  the  ancient  Hainniinn.  They  culminate  in  the  Mon- 
tuynu  delta  Sibilla  (812;)  ft.  I.  the  Gran  Saxso  dilnlhi  itlHlli  ft.),  and  the 
Mujella  (9121  ft.),   groups  which  are  connected  by  continuous  ranges,  and 


17(1      llnuU  13.     SOUTH-EASTERN  ITALY. 

wliicli  are  clad  with  smuv  down  to  the  month  of  July.  These  mountains 
abound  in  line  scenery  (lil).  15-17) ,  hut  until  recently  they  have  been 
well-nigh  inaccessible  'owing  to  the  defectiveness  of  the  means  of  com- 
munication and  the  badness  of  the  inns.  The  mountains  to  the  S.  of 
-12'  X.  lat. ,  receding  gradually  from  the  sea.  are  called  the  Neapolitan 
Apennines. 

The  last  spur  which  projects  into  the  sea  is  the  MIc.  Gargcmo  (5118  ft.), 
which,  however,  is  separated  from  the  chief  range  by  a  considerable  plain. 
Beyond  this  stretches  the  Apulian  plain,  an  extensive  tract  of  pasture  and 
arable  land,  bounded  by  an  undulating  district  on  the  S.  About  the  41st  de- 
gree of  X.  latitude  the  Apennines  divide;  the  main  chain,  extending  towards 
the  S.,  forms  Hie  peninsula  of  Calabria;  the  lower  chain,  to  the  E.,  that 
of  Apulia. 

The  Coast  (Provinces  of  Ancona  ,  the  Abrnzzi,  Capitanata ,  Terra  di 
Ban,  and  Terra  d'Otranto)  is  flat  and  monotonous,  and  destitute  of  good 
harbours.  The  estuaries  of  the  small  rivers  afford  but  scanty  protection 
to  the  vessels  of  the  coasting  trade.  Even  at  Ancona  the  prominent 
M.  Cuiiero  [1880  ft.)  alone  renders  the  anchorage  tolerable.  The  villages 
and  towns,  in  which  local  peculiarities  often  prevail  in  a  marked  degree, 
arc  generally  situated  on  the  heights,  and  conspicuous  at  a  great  distance. 
Farther  to  the  S..  however,  in  the  ancient  Apulia  and  Calabria  (p.  198), 
the  coast  scenery  improves,  and  there  are  three  important  harbours,  those 
of  Bari,  Brindisi,  and  Otranto.  Since  the  construction  of  the  railway  the 
most  direct  route  between  Western  and  Central  Europe  and  the  East  has 
passed  this  way,  and  this  district  is  gradually  attracting  more  attention 
from  travellers.  As  yet.  however,  it  is  only  the  larger  towns  which  boast 
of  tolerable  inns. 

Tn  the  8.  and  S.W  districts,  the  former  province  of  Basilicata,  the 
ancient  Lncania  (less  interesting  than  most  other  parts  of  Italy),  and  in 
Calabria,  civilisation  has  made  extremely  slow  progress,  and  the  inns  in 
particular  are  grievously  behind  the  requirements  of  the  age.  In  these 
respects  Calabria,  a  district  replete  with  striking  scenery,  is  specially 
unfortunate.  The  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Taranto ,  who.se  waters  bound 
both  of  these  provinces,  were  once  studded  with  numerous  flourishing 
Greek  colonies,  and  the  whole  district  bore  the  name  of  Magna  Graecia; 
but  the  traces  of  that  prosperous  epoch  are  now  scanty.  The  period  of 
decline  began  with  the  Roman  supremacy.  The  art  and  culture  of  the 
middle  ages  never  penetrated  to  these  remote  regions.  The  fields  once 
extolled  by  Sophocles  for  their  richness  and  fertility  are  now  sought  for 
in  vain,  and  the  malaria  now  exercises  its  dismal  sway  throughout  the 
whole  of  this  neglected  district.  The  soil  belongs  to  the  nobility ,  who 
let  it  to  a  miserably  poor  and  ignorant  class  of  farmers.  The  custom  of 
carrying  weapons  is  universally  prevalent  here,  and  brigandage  is  as  rife 
as  ever.  The  villages  are  generally  wretched  and  filthy  beyond  description. 
!No  one  should  therefore  attempt  to  explore  the  remoter  parts  of  this  country 
unless  provided  with  letters  of  introduction  to  some  of  the  principal  in- 
habitants (emnp.  p.  '214).  It  is,  however,  expected  that  the  condition  of 
the  country  will  speedily  improve  when  the  railway-system  is  more  devel- 
oped, and  the  dormant  capabilities  of  the  soil  are  thus  called  into  action. 

13.    From  Ancona  to  Foggia  (Brindisi). 

201  31.  Railway  in  6Vi-J2',2  hrs.;  fares  36  fr.  35,  25  fr.  50,  14  fr.  35  c. 
(3rd  class  by  express  18  fr.  20  c).  —  Ancona  is  347  31.  distant  from  Brin- 
disi. to  which  an  express  train  runs  daily  in  14  hrs.  in  correspondence 
with  the  quick  trains  from  Milan  and  Bologna  (fares  62  fr.  50  c.,  44  fr., 
31  fr.  40  c.) ;  also  once  weekly  (Sund.)  in  103/4  hrs.  (from  Bologna  to 
Brindisi  15  hrs.),  in  connection  with  the  English  mail  to  India,  carrying 
passengers  to  Brindisi  only.  The  local  trains  stop  for  the  night  at  Pescara 
or  Foggia. 

The  line  skirts  the  coast,  affording  a  sea  view  to  the  left,  and  an  in- 
land view  to  the  right.     The  towns,  generally   situated  on  the  heights,  at 


ASCOLI.  13.  Route.      171 

some  distance  from  the  railway,  communicate  regularly  with  their  stations 
by  diligence;  but  these  vehicles  have  little  pretension  to  comfort. 

Ancona,  see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy.  The  train  passes  through 
a  tunnel  under  the  hills  surrounding  Ancona  ;  to  the  left  rises 
the  promontory  of  Monte  Guasco;  on  a  hill  to  the  right  lies  the 
ancient  town  of  Osimo,  the  Roman  Auximum.  10  M.  Stat.  Osimo 
is  S'/o  ^T.  from  the  town.  On  the  right  we  soon  obtain  a  view  of 
Castelfidardo,  where  the  papal  troops  under  Lamorioierc  were  de- 
feated by  the  Italians  under  Cialdini  on  29th  Sept.  IS(il). 

15  M.  Loreto,  17l/-2  M.  Eecanati  (see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy). 
The  train  crosses  the  Potenza.  23  M.  Potenz-a  Picena  is  named 
after  a  Roman  colony  which  once  lay  in  the  neighbourhood,  but 
of  which  not  a  trace  now  exists.  On  the  hill,  about  41/2  M.  inland, 
lies  the  village  of  Montesanto. 

27  At.  Porto  Civitanora  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chicnli.  The 
town  of  Civitanova  lies  l]/t  M.  inland.  The  train  crosses  the 
Chienti.  31  M.  S.  Elpidio  a  Mare.  The  village  of  S.  Elpidio  lies 
several  miles  inland. 

The  Tenna  is  next  crossed.     37  M.  Porto  S.    Gionjio. 

On  the  hill,  3  JI.  inland,  is  situated  Fermo  (Locanda  iMV  Aqirila; 
seat  in  a  carriage  ^  fr.),  the  ancient  Fii'mum  Picettttin,  with  17.900  inhab., 
the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  and  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name. 
It  became  a  Roman  colony  after  the  beginning  of  the  First  Punic  War,  and 
has  continued  since  that  period  to  be  a  town  of  some  importance.  At  the 
Porta  8.  Francesco,  by  which  the  town  is  entered,  are  seen  remnants  of 
the  ancient  wall,  constructed  at  a  very  remote  period.  The  streets  ascend 
somewhat  precipitously  to  the  height  on  which  the  handsome  Piazza  is 
situated;  the  Town-Hall  here  contains  some  inscriptions  and  antiquities. 
Antiquarians  should  visit  the  collection  of  the  Avvocato  de  Minicis. 
Outside  the  town  we  obtain  line  views  of  the  fertile  district,  the  Apen- 
nines,  and  the  sea. 

The  train  next  crosses  the  brooks  Lete  Vim  and  Aso.  43  i\T. 
Pedaso,  4S  M.  Oupra  Marittima  (Marano).  Near  the  latter  once 
lay  the  ancient  town  of  that  name ,  with  a  celebrated  temple 
dedicated  to  the  Sabine  goddess  Cupra,  and  restored  by  Hadrian 
(in  A.D.  126).  50  M.  Grottammare.  On  the  hill,  about  4i/2  M. 
inland,  is  Ripatransone  (5000  inhab. J.  The  inhabitants  of  these 
districts  greatly  resemble  their  Neapolitan  neighbours  in  manners 
and  appearance. 

53  M.   S.  Benedetto  (inn  at  the  station),  a  village  on  the  coast. 

Ascoli  ("Locanda  delV  Aquila),  the  ancient  Asculvm  Picrinnit.,  with 
'22,900  inhab.,  the  seat  of  a  bishop  and  capital  of  a  province,  is  situated  in 
the  fertile  valley  of  the  Tronto,  19  31.  from  the  S.  Benedetto  station  (diligence 
twice  daily  in  4  hrs.,  fare  2>|2  fr.).  The  road  ascends  on  theX.  side  of  the 
valley  and  then  crosses  to  the  S.  side,  where  the  town  lies.  The  valley  is 
here  contracted  and  enclosed  by  lofty  mountains.  To  the  K.  rises  the 
jagged  M.  della  Ascensione,  to  the  W.  the  Sibilla,  and  more  to  the  S.  the 
Pizzo  di  Sevo.  Mountain  roads  lead  hence  by  Xovcia  to  Bpoletn,  and  others 
through  the  valleys  of  the  Vclinn  and  Aterno  to  Aquila  (p>.  tS-i|  and  the 
interior  of  the  Abruzzi.  Ascoli,  an  ancient  town  in  a  commanding  sitviation, 
the  capital  of  the  tribe  of  Picentines,  took  a  prominent  part  in  the  Social 
War  against  Rome,  and  was  captured  and  destroyed  by  Ponipc\ .  Interesting 
remains  of  the  ancient  walls,  a  bridge,  and  a  gate  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
town.     The   town-hall    contains   a   few    inscriptions,    and   other  relics  are 


172      Route  13.  PESCARA.  From  Ancona 

encountered  in  other  parts  of  the  town  ,  e.  g.  insignificant  vestiges  of  a 
theatre  and  amphitheatre.  The  architecture  of  the  churches  and  palaces 
dates  chiefly  from  a  period  anterior  to  the  Renaissance,  materially  en- 
hancing the  interest  of  the  town  ,  which  is  indeed  the  most  attractive  on 
the  E.  coast.  The  Cathedral  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Constan- 
tine  on  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Hercules.  The  original  substructions  are 
still  traceable.  A  chapel  on  the  right  in  the  interior  contains  good  pictures 
by  Crivelli. 

Beyond  S.  Benedetto  the  train  crosses  the  Tronto,  the  ancient 
Truentus ,  formerly  the  boundary  between  the  States  of  the 
Church  and  the  kingdom  of  Naples.  62  M.  Tortoreto.  68  M.  Giu- 
lianora,  a  dirty  village  on  the  hill ,  l1^  M.  from  the  coast,  built 
in  the  15th  cent,  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  ancient  Castrum  Novum 
on  the  Tordino,  and  then  named  S.  Flaviano. 

Teramo,  the  ancient  Jnteramna,  the  capital  of  the  province  Abruzzo 
Ultra  I.,  seat  of  a  bishop,  with  19,700  inhab.,  15  M.  distant  (post-omnibus 
2  ft'.,  in  'l^i-S  hrs.),  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tordino.  The  Gothic 
cathedral  is  now  modernised.  The  valley  commands  a  succession  of  fine 
views  of  the  imposing  Gran  Sasso.  The  town  contains  several  inns,  the 
best  in   the  Piazza,  where  the    Cafe  cV Italia   is  also   situated. 

A  new  road  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Vomano  from  Teramo  to  Aquila 
(conip.  p.  185). 

The  train  crosses  the  Tordino,  the  ancient  Batinus,  and  then 
the  Vomano  (Vomanus).     ^Q1/^  M.  Mutignano. 

Atri  ("Albergo  di  Vine.  Man-one),  6  M.  inland  (diligence  in  the  after- 
noon 1  fr.  '2b  c,  other  conveyances  rarely  obtainable),  the  ancient  Hadiia, 
an  episcopal  residence,  with  99!!!)  inhab.,  is  a  town  of  great  antiquity,  and 
was  once  celebrated  for  its  copper  coins.  Numerous  ruins  bear  testimony 
to  its  ancient  importance.  The  Gothic  cathedral  with  its  frescoes  merits  a 
visit.  It  rests  on  extensive  foundations  of  ancient  origin,  perhaps  those  of  a 
temple.     Several  large  grottoes  near  the  town  are  also  of  very  remote  date. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Piombu,  the  ancient  Matrinus,  5  M. 
inland  from  which  is  situated  Civita  Santangelo  (6600  inhab.). 
84  M.  Silvi,  87  M.  Montesilvano. 

Penne,  16  M.  inland,  the  capital  of  the  district,  with  9800  inhab.,  was 
the  Pinna  of  the  ancients,  and  chief  town  of  the  Vestini,  of  which  period 
various  relics  still  exist. 

91  M.  Pescara  (Leone  d'Oro),  a  fortified  town  with  5200  inh., 
situated  in  an  unhealthy  plain  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Pescara,  is 
one  of  the  principal  stations  on  the  line.  The  mountain-group  of 
the  Afajella,  culminating  in  M.  Amara  (9121  ft.),  and  55  M.  in  cir- 
cumference, now  becomes  visible  on  the  right.  The  train  crosses 
the  river  by  an  iron  bridge,  below  which  are  a  wooden  bridge  and 
a  small  harbour,  and  then  describes  a  curve  round  the  town.  Branch- 
line  to  Solmonu  atid  Aquila,  see  R.  15. 

96  M.  Francavilla,  a  village  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  Beyond 
it  a  mountain-spur  projects  into  the  sea.  Four  short  tunnels.  Be- 
yond the  third  the  fort  of  Ortona  becomes  visible  on  the  left. 

1U5  M.  Ortona.  The  town  (Cabrera;  Cafe  in  the  Piazza),  i/2  M- 
from  the  station,  the  ancient  Orton ,  capital  of  the  Frentani ,  is 
now  a  tolerably  clean  and  well-built  place  (11,900  inhab.),  situated 
on  a  lofty  promontory,  with  a  small  quay  on  the  shore  below. 
Beautiful  \iews  towards  the  S.  as  far  as  the  Punta  di  Penna  (see 


to  Fogy ia.  TERMOLI.  13.  Route.      173 

below),  especially  of  the  ancient  and  dilapidated  fort.  The  archi- 
tecture of  the  cathedral  should  be  inspected. 

Beyond  Ortona  the  train  passes  through  another  tunnel  and 
crosses  two  brooks.  l091/2  M-  &■  Vito  Chietino  is  the  station  for 
Lanciano ,  6  M.  inland,  with  17,300  inhab.,  the  ancient  Anxa- 
num,  and  the  capital  of  the  province  Abruzzo  ('iteriore.  It  may 
also  be  reached  from  the  next  station  (Ji'2  M.)  Fossacesiu.  Be- 
tween >S .  Vito  and  Fossacesia  three  tunnels ;  beyond  which  we 
obtain  a  pleasing  survey  of  the  peninsula,  terminating  in. the 
Punta  di  Penna. 

The  train  crosses  the  Sanyro.  Lat.  Sanyrus.  i'2'2  M.  Casalbor- 
dino.  Three  tunnels,  beyond  which  Vasto  becomes  visible,  on  an 
olive  clad  hill  on  the  right.  131  M.  Stat.  Vasto.  The  town  lies  on 
the  hill,  1  M.  from  the  station. 

Vasto  (*Locanda  di  CasteLlo,  outside  the  gate ;  those  in  the 
town  dirty;  Cafe  N(izionale),  the  ancient  Histonium .  with  13,800 
inhab.,  lies  high,  and  commands  tine  views  as  far  as  the  Tremiti 
islands  (p.  165)  and  Monte  Gargano.  The  small  cathedral  with  a 
Gothic  facade  bears  a  memorial  tablet  to  General  Carlo  Antonio 
.YTanh.es,  distruttore  de'  briganti,  primo  cittadino  del  Vasto',  date 
1810.  A  small  museum  in  the  town-hall  contains  inscriptions  and 
other  relics  found  here.  In  the  environs  are  extensive  olive  plan- 
tations. 

The  train  crosses  the  Triyno ,  Lat.  Trinius.  147  ^j->  Al.  Termoli 
(  Venezia ,  in  the  suburbs),  a  fortress  close  to  the  sea,  with  medie- 
val walls,  excessively  dirty.  Charming  survey  of  the  Majella  and 
Abruzzi.  The  cathedral,  with  a  Gothic  facade,  contains  a  number 
of  quaintly  decorated  saints. 

From  Termoli  a  diligence  runs  daily  via  Campobasso  in  about  '20  hrs. 
to  (94  M.)  Solopaca ,  on  the  Foggia  and  Naples  railway  thence  hy  rail- 
way to  3Iaddaloni ,  on  the  Rome  and  Naples  line.  A  railway  follow- 
ing the  direction  of  this  road  is  projected.  The  first  half  of  the  route 
is  monotonous.  The  first  important  place  is  (2'2  31. |  Larino  (  I.oc.  di 
Agostino  Milano) ,  in  a  valley,  near  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Lai-ilium. 
The  road  continues  to  ascend  through  a  bleak  district.  Campohasso  (two 
tolerable  inns),  371/:;  31.  farther,  the  capital  of  a  province,  and  a  place 
of  some  importance,  is  noted  for  its  steel  wares.  A  short  halt  is  made 
here. 

From  Campobasso  to  Solopaca,  34!/2  31.,  by  diligence  in  6  hrs.  (fare 
6  fr.).  The  road,  after  traversing  the  mountain,  descends  into  the  valley 
of  the  Tamaro.  The  country  becomes  more  attractive.  Post-station  »S'e- 
piuo;  the  town  lies  2  M.  higher.  About  2'j-t  31.  from  this  point  are  situ- 
ated the  extensive  ruins  of  the  ancient  ftcwjiiuutii,  now  Altilla.  A  little 
to  the  left  of  the  road,  14>!aM.  farther,  is  the  village  of  Puntelamlol/o,  the 
inhabitants  of  which  in  1861  cruelly  and  treacherously  assassinated  thirty- 
six  Italian  soldiers  and  four  carabineers,  whom  they  had  received  with  ap- 
parent hospitality  and  induced  to  lay  down  their  arms,  (ieneral  (.'kildini 
caused  the  troops  to  take  a  summary  and  sanguinary  revenge.  Then  the 
village  of  Giiardia  S.  Framondi.  The  road  now  descends  to  the  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Galore,  crossing  it  by  an  iron  bridge,  and  at  stat.  Nulnjun-a 
reaches  the  Foggia  and  Naples  railway ,  by  which  Maddaloni  is  17  31. 
(distant  R.  14.) 


1  74    Route  13.  FOGGIA.  From  Anconn 

The  Tremiti  Islands,  25  M.  N.E.  of  Termoli,  the  Insulae  Diome- 
dcne  of  ancient  mythology,  the  largest  of  which  is  8.  Domenico,  are 
used,   as  in  ancient  times,  as  a  place  of  imprisonment. 

Beyond  Termoli  the  scenery  is  less  attractive.  The  train  crosses 
the  Bifemo,  Lat.  Tifernus.  152  M.  Campomarino,  158  M.  Chieuti, 
once  Albanian  colonies.  We  next  cross  the  Fortore,  the  ancient 
Frento. 

11)5  M.    Ripalta. 

Near  Ripalta,  on  15th  June,  1503,  the  Normans  defeated  and  captured 
Pope  Leo  IX. ,  and  then ,  falling  on  their  knees ,  implored  his  blessing. 
Leo,  relenting,  imparted  it,  and  subsequently  conferred  Apulia,  Calabria, 
and  Sicily  on  the  brothers  Humfred  and  Robert  Guiscard ,  a  grant  which 
was  ultimately  fraught  with  consequences  so  important  to  Rome  and  the 
papal  throne,  as  well  as  to  the  Normans. 

To  theN.K.  is  the  Lago  di  Lesina,  which  communicates  with 
the  sea.  The  train  now  proceeds  inland,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
promontory  of  M.  (Jaryano  (jp.  170),  a  buttress  of  the  Apennines 
projecting  into  the  sea,  with  several  peaks  nearly  5000  ft.  in  height. 
174l/4  M.  Poyyio  Iinperiale;  177  M.  Apricena;  184  M.  San  Severn 
(Locanda  dTtalia),  a  dirty  town  with  17,000  inhab.,  which,  after  a 
gallant  resistance,  was  taken  and  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the 
French  in  1799.  The  cholera  committed  fearful  ravages  here  in 
1805.     19i/2  M.   Mottn. 

201  M.  Foggia.  —  Restaurant,  with  several  good  rooms,  at  the  station. 
The  town  is  '/s  31.  distant;  cab  '/a  fr.  —  In  the  Town:  Albekoo  Centkale 
and  Trattoria  Cavvtir ,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town ,  R.  2,  L  and  A.  1  fr. 
Locanda  01  IIoma  ,    in  the  main  street. 

Foyyia ,  the  capital  of  a  province  formerly  called  the  Capi- 
titnata,  a  clean,  thriving  town,  well  situated  in  a  commercial  point 
of  view,  with  38,100  inhab.,  forms  the  central  point  of  the  great 
Apulian  plain.  On  the  left,  opposite  the  first  houses  of  the  town, 
'/jM.  from  the  station,  is  a  colonnade  forming  the  entrance  to  the 
Or  iardino  Pubblico,  which  is  adorned  with  several  busts,  lleyond 
these  public  grounds  is  a  botanic  garden.  The  main  street  which 
we  follow  now  takes  the  name  of  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele.  To  the 
left  in  the  piazza  planted  with  trees  rises  a  monument  to  Vine. 
Lanza  (1784-1860),  a  physician  and  patriot,  who  was  horn  at 
Foggia.  After  5  min.  we  cross  the  Corso  del  Teatro  and  reach  the 
Piazza  Federico  I  J.,  adorned  with  a  fountain  (Pozzo  dell'  Impera- 
torej,  situated  in  the  older  part  of  the  town.  The  name  is  a  remi- 
niscence of  the  Kmperor  Frederick  11.,  who  patronised  and  frequently 
visited  Foggia.  The  side-street  immediately  to  the  right  also  con- 
tains a  gateway  belonging  to  the  old  palace  of  the  emperor,  bearing 
an  inscription  of  the  year  1213  relative  to  the  foundation.  Leaving 
the  Piazza  Kederico  II.  and  turning  to  the  left,  we  soon  reach  the 
0'tithedral.  which  was  originally  erected  by  the  Normans,  partly 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1731,  and  afterwards  re-erected  in 
a  modern  style.  Part  of  the  old  facade  only  now  exists.  King 
Manfred  was  crowned   here  in  1258,  and  in  1797  Francis  1.     then 


to  Foggia.  MANFREDONIA.  13.  Route.      175 

Duke  of  Calabria,  was  married  here  to  his  first  queen,  Maria  Cle- 
mentina of  Austria,  in  consequence  of  which  the  church  is  some- 
times called  the  Cappella  Palatina. 

A  great  part  of  the  spacious ,  treeless  plain  around  Foggia  is  used  as 
a  sheep-pasture  ( Tcmoliere  della  Puglia).  During  the  summer  the  flocks 
graze  on  the  mountains,  and  in  October  return  to  the  plain  by  three  great 
routes  (Tratture  delle  Pecore).  These  migrations,  during  which  hundreds 
of  flocks  may  he  encountered  in  one  day,  date  from  the  Roman  period. 
Alphonso  I.  ,  who  introduced  the  merino  sheep  ,  converted  the  pastures 
into  a  royal  domain  in  1445.  The  number  of  sheep  supported  by  these 
pastures  amounted  to  4'/2  million  at  the  close  of  the  16th  cent.,  but  owing 
to  the  progress  of  agriculture,  is  now  reduced  to  less  than  half  a  million. 

About  3  M.  to  the  X.  of  Foggia  are  the  scanty  remains  of  the  ancient 
town  of  Arpi ,  or  Argyripe ,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Diomedes ,  and 
afterwards  replaced  by  Foggia. 

From  Foggia  to  Luceea,  lO'Ja  M. ,  diligence  twice  daily  in  ii|2  hr. 
(fare  l'|2  fr.);  carriage  there  and  back  about  10  fr.  —  The  road,  which 
is  enlivened  with  busy  traffic,  ascends  gradually  through  arable  land.  Rail- 
way projected. 

Lucera  (Albergo  d' Italia),  a  town  with  14,000  inhab.,  the  ancient  Lu- 
cerftt ,  was  regarded  as  the  key  of  Apulia,  owing  to  its  situation.  It  is  first 
heard  of  during  the  Samnite  wars  ,  and  in  B.  C.  314  it  became  a  Roman 
colony.  It  continued  to  be  an  important  and  prosperous  town  down  to  the 
Tth  cent,  after  Christ,  but  was  destroyed  in  663.  It  was  at  length  restored 
by  Frederick  II. ,  who  in  1239  transplanted  a  colony  of  Saracens  hither 
from  Sicily,  bestowing  on  them  entire  religious  freedom.  They  were  in 
consequence  staunch  adherents  of  the  Hohenstaufen  family,  and  accorded 
an  asylum  to  the  wife  and  children  of  Manfred  after  the  battle  of  Bene- 
vento,   but  were  expelled  from  their  town  by  Charles  of  Anjou  in  1269. 

The  town  lies  on  a  lofty  plain ,  which  slopes  imperceptibly  towards 
the  S.  and  E.,  and  abruptly  towards  the  N.  and  W.  On  the  W.  side  the 
plateau  projects,  forming  a  kind  of  peninsula,  on  which  the  admirably 
preserved  "Castle  (keys  at  the  Municipio),  erected  by  Frederick,  is  situated . 
It  is  an  interesting  example  of  a  mediaeval  stronghold,  and  occupies  the 
site  of  the  ancient  arx.  The  present  structure  is  of  various  epochs, 
but  most  of  it  dates  from  the  Hohenstaufen  period.  The  :::view  embraces 
the  plain  bounded  by  the  Apennines  and  Monte  Gargano  ;  to  the  N.  lies 
the  town  of  S.  Severo,  and  to  the  E.  stretches  the  sea.  The  isolated 
mountain  to  the  S.  is  the  3Ionte  Vulture  near  Melii,  the  summit  of  which 
commands  a  survey  of  the  whole  of  Apulia.  —  The  handsome  Cathedral 
in  the  Romanesque  style,  with  flat  ceiling  and  columns  of  verde  antico, 
was  once  used  as  a  mosque.  —  A  few  inscriptions  dating  from  the  ancient 
municipium,  which  far  exceeded  the  modern  town  in  extent,  are  preserved 
in  the  library  of  the  municipio,  or  town-hall.  There  are  slight  traces  of  an 
amphitheatre  on  the  E.  side  of  the  town. 

On  the  road  to  S.  Severo,  6  M.  from  Lucera,  lay  the  Castel  Florentine/, 
where  Frederick  II.,  after  a  reign  of  38  years  as  a  German  king,  died  in 
1250,  in  his  56th  year. 

From  Foggia  to  Manfredonia,  25  M.,  diligence  once  daily  in  4  hrs. 
(3  fr.)-,  carriage  there  and  back  16  fr.  and  fee;  railway  projected.  The 
country  traversed  is  bleak  and  monotonous,  but  presents  several  points  of 
interest  to  architects.  The  road  passes  S.  Leonardo,  19  M.  from  Foggia,  a 
church  and  monastery  founded  by  Hermann  von  Salza  in  1223,  with  a  fine 
portal,  now  used  as  a  'Masseria',  or  farm-house,  and  very  dilapidated.  About 
2  M.  from  Manfredonia  the  road  passes  the  "Cathedral  of  Siponto,  a  line 
example  of  the  Romanesque  style,  with  a  crypt.  The  interior,  unfortu- 
nately restored,  contains  a  'miracle-working1  Madonna  and  numerous  votive 
tablets.     This  district  suffers  from  malaria. 

Manfredonia  (Locanda  di  Donna  Peppina),  a  quiet  town  with  7900  in- 
habitants, occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Siponiirm  ,  a  Roman  colony  in 
B.  C.  194,    on   the   ruins  of  which  the  present  town  was  founded  by  King 


J  76      Until c  11.  BO VI NO.  From  Fogg ia 

Manfred  in  I'ioti.  The  anchorage  of  Manfredonia  is  commended,  but  the 
harhour  is  filled  with  sand.  The  steamers  from  Genoa  to  Ancona  touch 
here  onre  a  fortnight  (Wed.  morning).  Owing  to  the  sheltered  situation 
of  the  town,  to  the  S.  of  Monte  Gargano,  the  vegetation  is  very  luxuriant, 
resembling  that  of  Sicily  in  character. 

A  road,  at  first  traversing  olive-plantations,  and  then  ascending  in 
windings,  leads  hence  to  (10'|2  M.)  Monte  Santangelo  (2824  ft.),  with  a  pic- 
turesque castle,  and  a  famous  old  sanctuary  of  S.  Michele,  where  a  great 
festival  is  celebrated  on  8th  May.  The  chapel  consists  of  a  grotto  to 
which  55  steps  descend,  and  where,  as  the  legend  runs,  St.  Michael  appear- 
ed to  St.  Laurcntius  ,  Archbishop  of  Sipontum,  in  491.  In  the  11th  cent, 
the  warlike  Normans  undertook  pilgrimages  to  this  sacred  spot  before  they 
became  masters  of  the  country.  The  bronze  doors,  with  scenes  from  Script- 
ure, bear  the  inscription:  'Hoc  opus  completum  est  in  regia  urbe  Constan- 
nopoli  adjuvante  Dno  Pantaleone  qui  fieri  jussit  anno  ab  incarnatione  Dni 
Millesimo  Scptuagesimo  Sexto'  (comp.  p.  164).  —  From  this  point  M.  Cairo, 
the  culminating  point  of  Monte  Gargano  (5118  ft.),  is  most  easily  ascended. 
Between  Monte  S.  Angelo  and  TVco  lies  the  extensive  and  beautiful  beech- 
forest  called  Bosco  deir  Umbra,  which  stretches  towards  the  sea.  Farther 
to  the  X.  is  Ischitella.  Towards  the  E.,  on  the  coast,  is  Viesli,  where 
steamers  touch  once  weekly.  The  roads  are  bad,  and  suitable  for  riding 
and  walking  only. 

From  Foggia  to   Naples,   see  below  ;  to  Brindisi  and  Otranto, 
see  R.  18. 


14.     From  (Ancona)  Foggia  to  Naples*. 

Railway.  Shortest  route  from  Germany  and  from  N.  and  E.  Italy  to 
Naples.  From  Bologna  to  Naples  19'|2  hrs.  —  From  Ancona  to  Foggia 
(201  M.),  see  I!.  13.  From  Foggia  to  Naples  (124  M.)  by  ordinary  train 
in  8,  by  express  in  52|3  hrs. ;  fares  22  fr.  40,  15  fr.  70,  8  fr.  95  c.  —  The 
slow  trains  are  always  behind  time. 

The  train  ('finest  views  to  the  left)  traverses  the  Tavoliere  di 
Puglia  (p.  175).  From  (5i/2  M.J  Cervaro  a  short  branch-line 
diverges  to   Candela. 

Fiiom  Foggia  to  Candela,  24'|2  31.,  in  li)4  hr.  (4  fr.  40,  3  fr.  10,  1  fr. 
80  c).  Stat.  Cervaro,  see  above ;  Ordona,  the  ancient  Herdonia,  with  an 
ancient  bridge,  amphitheatre,  tombs,  etc. ;  Ascoli  (A lbergo  di  Roma,  clean), 
I'/a  M.  from  the  station  (>j2  fr.),  charmingly  situated,  the  ancient  Auscuhim 
Apnlti/ii,  famed  for  the  victory  gained  here  by  Pyrrhus  over  the  Romans, 
B.  C.  279  ;  lastly,   Candela. 

17  M.  Giardinetto  is  the  station  for  Troja,  7  M.  to  the  N. 
(diligence  l'/2  fr. ),  a  Byzantine  colony  of  the  11th  cent.,  to 
which  period  belongs  the  interesting  cathedral  with  its  ancient 
bronze  doors.     At  Ponte  di  Bovino  the  train  crosses  the  Cervaro. 

21  M.  Bovino,  the  ancient  Vibinum,  whose  inhabitants  are 
notorious    for    brigandism ,    lies    on    the    hill    to    the    left. 

The  train  follows  the  left  bank  of  the  Cervaro.  Three  tunnels. 
2!),A>  -M.  Montagtito-Piinni.  Montaguto  lies  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Cervaro;  Panni  lies  high  up  among  the  hills  to  the  left. 
33  M.  Siiriijniino-(ircr.i.  two  villages  loftily  situated  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  Vnlle  di  liorino,  or  ravine  of  the  Cervaro.  Then 
a  long  tunnel.  31)1/.,  Al .  Ariano ;  the  town  is  not  visible  from 
the  line.  Three  tunnels,  beyond  which  we  cross  the  watershed 
between    the  Tyrrhenian   Sea    and    the    Adriatic.      42  M.   Starza. 


to  Naples.  BENEVENTO.  14.  Route.      177 

Then  a  tunnel  more  than  li/2  M.  long,  and  a  shorter  one. 
50  M.  Buonalbergo.  Near  (55  M.)  Apice  the  train  enters  the 
narrow  valley  of  the  Colore  and  follows  its  uninteresting  N.  bank 
to  (59!/2  M.)  Ponte  Valentino.  It  then  crosses  the  Tamaro,  a 
tributary  of  the  Calore. 

64  M.  BeneventO.  —  Locanda  di  Gaeta,  in  the  Piazza,  dirty;  di 
Benevento  in  the  Largo  S.  Antonio,  small,  but  rather  cleaner:  DI  Roma, 
with  trattoria,  in  the  new  street  leading  to  the  station. 

Caff'e  Naiioitale,  opposite  the  palace  of  the  cardinal  legate.  "'Trattoria 
in  the  second  side-street  to  the  right  as  the  town  is  entered  from  tliu 
station,  third  house  on  the  left.  —  Station  '|i  M.  to  the  N.,  one-horse  cab 
•jz  fr.,  two-horse  1  fr.  ;  after  dusk  60  c.  or  1  fr.  30  c.  —  The  sights  of 
the  town  may  be  visited  in  3  hrs.,  or  less  if  a  cab  is  taken. 

Benevento,  a  town  with  20,100  inhab.,  situated  on  a  hill  bound- 
ed by  the  two  rivers  Sabato  and  Calore,  was  formerly  the  capital 
of  a  papal  province  of  the  same  name.  The  narrow  and  dirty  streets 
are  gradually  undergoing  improvement. 

Beneventum,  founded  according  to  tradition  by  Diomedes,  or  by  the  son 
of  Ulysses  and  Circe,  was  originally  called  Maleventum,  but  the  name 
was  changed  when  it  became  a  Roman  colony,  B.C.  268.  It  lay  on  the  Via 
Appia,  and  became  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  S.  Italy.  In  the  6tli 
cent,  after  Christ  Beneventum  became  the  seat  of  a  powerful  Lombard 
duchy.  In  the  11th  cent.  Emp.  Henry  III.  ceded  it  to  Pope  Leo  IX.,  from 
which  period  down  to  its  incorporation  with  the  kingdom  of  Italy  it  be- 
longed to  Rome,  except  when  under  the  short-lived  sovereignty  of  Kapo- 
leon  I.,  who  granted  it  to  Talleyrand. 

*Trajans  Triumphal  Arch,  or  the  Porta  Aurea,  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  town,  dating  from  A.  D.  114,  is  one  of  the  finest  and 
best  preserved  Roman  structures  in  S.  Italy.  It  was  dedicated 
to  the  emperor  by  the  Roman  senate  and  people,  in  recognition 
of  his  having  completed  a  new  road  to  Brundisium  ,  and  some- 
what resembles  the  arch  of  Titus  at  Rome.  It  is  constructed  of 
Greek  marble,  and  is  50  ft.  in  height,  the  passage  being  27  ft. 
high.  A  quadriga  with  a  statue  of  Trajan  once  crowned  the 
summit.     The  reliefs  relate  to  the  history  of  the  emperor. 

Outside.  Over  the  arch  are  two  rivers ,  the  Danube  and  Euphrates 
(or  Rhine).  The  frieze  represents  the  triumph  of  Trajan  over  the  tier- 
manic  tribes.  Above,  on  the  left,  assembly  of  the  gods,  resolving  on  the 
adoption  of  Trajan  by  Nerva;  on  the  right,  conquest  of  Dacia,  King  Dece- 
balus  at  the  emperor's  feet.  On  the  left  Trajan  triumphing  over  Dacia  ;  on 
the  right  the  marriage  of  Hadrian  and  Sabina;  1.  Armenia  constituted  a 
Roman  province ;  right  an  Oriental  ambassador  in  Trajan's  presence.  — 
Passage:  1.  Trajau  sacrificing  to  Jupiter;  r.  Trajan  bestowing  a  'congiarium1 
or  largess  on  the  people  after  his  triumph.  On  the  ceiling  Trajan  crowned 
by  Victory.  —  Inner  Side.  On  the  frieze  a  Dacian  triumph.  Reliefs : 
Trajan  sacrificing,  Procession  to  the  Capitol,  Adoption  of  Trajan,  Entry 
into  Rome,  Trajan  administering  justice,  Trajan  in  the  Basilica  Ulpia. 

Following  the  Town  Walls  ,  which  ,  as  well  as  the  town  itself, 
contain  many  relics  of  antiquity ,  we  proceed  towards  the  S.  to  the 
Castle,  erected  in  the  14th  cent.,  now  partly  used  as  a  prison. 
The  promenade  in  front  of  it ,  which  is  embellished  with  a  hand- 
some obelisk,  commands  an  excellent  survey  of  the  valley  of  the 
Sabato  and  of  the  mountains. 
Baedeker.    Italv  III.    fith  Eri;t;n»  12 


178      Route  U.  BENEVENTO.  From  Foggia 

From  this  point  we  follow  the  main  street  to  the  Piazza  Papi- 
niana.  Another  obelisk,  re-erected  here  in  1872,  is  a  memorial  of 
the  Egyptian  worship  of  Isis,  which  was  very  prevalent  here  towards 
the  end  of  the  pagan  period.  —  On  the  right  is  a  suppressed  Bene- 
dictine monastery  with  the  church  of  Santa  Sofia,  a  circular  edifice 
of  the  Lombard  period,  erected  about  732-74.  It  is  now  partly 
modernised.  The  vaulting  of  the  dome  is  borne  by  six  ancient 
Corinthian  columns.  Handsome  cloisters. 

We  next  pass  the  Episcopal  Palace,  where  there  is  another  obe- 
lisk, and  reach  the  piazza  in  front  of  the  cathedral. 

The  *Cathedral,  dating  from  the  12th  cent.,  is  a  beautiful 
edifice  in  the  Lombard-Saracenic  style.  In  the  wall  of  the  clock- 
tower  is  a  relief  in  marble,  representing  a  wild  boar,  the  cogni- 
sance of  Benevento.  The  principal  door  of  the  cathedral  is  of 
bronze,  adorned  with  basreliefs  of  New  Testament  subjects.  It  is 
said  to  have  been  executed  at  Constantinople  in  1150.  The 
interior  is  in  the  form  of  a  basilica,  with  double  aisles  borne  by 
ancient  columns.  Ambos  and  candelabra  of  1311.  Valuable  treas- 
ury. 

Descending  to  the  right  of  the  church ,  we  reach  the  Pre- 
fecture, formerly  the  Palace  of  the  Cardinal  Legate.  The  court 
contains  a  few  antiquities.  Continuing  to  descend  to  the  right, 
we  pass  through  an  old  gateway  to  the  site  of  the  ancient  Theatre, 
now  concealed  by  other  buildings.  —  Returning  to  the  cathedral 
and  going  straight  past  it ,  and  passing  the  street  leading  to  the 
station,  we  come  to  a  piazza  embellished  with  an  Apis,  another  relic 
of  the  ancient  worship  of  Isis  ,  which  the  local  savants  have  pro- 
nounced to  be  an  emblem  of  the  Samnite  League.  The  traveller 
may  now  continue  his  route  along  the  bank  of  the  Sabato,  plant- 
ed with  poplars,  to  the  ancient  Ponte  Lebroso,  by  which  the  Via 
Appia  once  led  to  the  town.  It  is  now  the  site  of  a  mill.  Near 
it,  to  the  "W..  lie  the  ruins  of  Santi  Quaranta,  an  extensive 
structure  of  brick  with  a  'cryptoporticus'  and  colonnades,  once 
probably    belonging  to  a  bath-establishment. 

The  road  to  the  station  crosses  the  Calore  by  ;i  handsome  bridge,  near 
which,  according  to  tradition ,  was  the  temporary  grave  of  the  young 
and  heroic  King  Manfred,  who  on  26th  Feb.,  1266,  in  a  battle  with 
Charles  I.  of  Anjou  on  the  neighbouring  plains,  had  lost  his  throne  and 
his  life  through  the  treachery  of  the  Barons  of  Apulia  and  the  Counts  of 
Caserta  and  Acerra.  Shortly  afterwards,  however,  the  body  of  the  ill-fated 
prince  was  exhumed  by  order  of  Bartolommeo  Pignatelli,  Archbishop  of 
Cosenza,  conveyed  beyond  the  limits  of  the  kingdom,  and  exposed  unburied 
on  the  hank  of  the  Kio  Verde.  Dante  records  this  in  his  Purgatorio 
(Hi-   134). 

The  Railway  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  Calore,  and  passes 
through  a  tunnel.  36  ,M.  Vitulnno;  another  tunnel.  The  valley 
expands;  to  the  left  on  the  hill  lies  Torrecuso.  73  M.  Ponte 
(li  Benevento ,  where  the  high  road  to  Benevento  crosses  the  Ca- 
lore by  an  iron  bridge.    Another  tunnel.    76  M.  S.  Lorenzo  Mag- 


to  Naples.  AVERSA.  U.  Route.      179 

giore,  on  the  hill  to  the  right ;  the  line  here  crosses  the  high- 
road from  Naples  to  Campobasso  and  Termoli.  HO'/a  M.  Solopaca; 
the  small  town  (4900  inhab.)  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot 
of  Monte  Taburno  (4095  ft.),  IV2  M-  t0  the  left-  Before  reaching 
(S4  M.)  stat.  Telese ,  we  observe  on  the  left  the  Lago  di  Telese,  a 
malarious  marsh  which  poisons  the  neighbourhood.  Telese,  a  poor 
village  on  the  hills  to  the  right,  is  visited  in  summer  for  its  min- 
eral springs  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  district.  Near  it  are  a  few 
remains  of  the  ancient  Telesia ,  a  Samnite  town  ,  once  occupied 
by  Hannibal,  but  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Romans.  It  was 
afterwards  colonised  by  Augustus.  Tn  the  9th  cent,  the  town 
suffered  severely  from  an  earthquake,  and  was  at  length  entirely 
destroyed  by  the  Saracens. 

Near  (86  M.)  Amorosi  the  train  enters  the  broad  and  fertile 
valley  of  the  Volturno,  which  is  first  crossed  above,  then  below 
the  influx  of  the  Galore.  90'/2  M.  Duyentn,  2'/2  M-  above  which, 
on  the  Isclero,  is  situated  S.  Agnta  de'  Goti,  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Saticola.  The  defile  between  S.  Agata  and  Mojano  is 
supposed  by  some  to  be  the  Caudine  Forks ,  as  the  locality  cor- 
responds better  with  Livy's  description  than  the  pass  near  Arpaia 
(P.  10). 

941/2  M.  Valle.  The  train  ascends,  and  passes  under  the 
*Ponti  della  Valle,  an  imposing  aqueduct  in  three  stories,  about 
210  ft.  in  height,  and  25  M.  in  length.  It  was  constructed 
by  Vanvitelli  by  order  of  Charles  III.  and  his  son,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  supplying  the  gardens  of  Gaserta  with  water  from  Monte 
Taburno.  The  towers  connected  with  it  are  seen  on  the  hill  to 
the  right. 

The  train  now  descends  to  (^JT'/o  M-)  Maddaloni ;  the  town 
lies  below  the  line;  to  the  left  a  view  of  the  Campanian  plain. 
Two  tunnels. 

IO21/2  M-  Caserta,   see  p.  9. 

Beyond  Gaserta  the  train  traverses  the  most  fertile  and  highly 
cultivated  part  of  the  Terra  di  Lavoro  (p.  7),  a  vast  plain  covered 
with  vineyards,   poplars,   and  various  crops.   108'/2  M.  Marcianise. 

112  M.  Aversa,  a  town  with  21,000  inhab.,  probably  occupies 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Atella,  where  the  Fabxda  Atellana ,  or 
early  Roman  comedy,  first  originated.  In  1029  it  was  the  first 
settlement  of  the  Normans  .  who  afterwards  became  so  powerful. 
On  18th  Sept.  1345  King  Andreas  of  Hungary ,  husband  of  Oueen 
Johanna  I.  of  Naples,  was  assassinated  by  Niccolo  Acciajuoli  in  the 
palace  of  Aversa.  The  light  and  rather  acid  wine  of  Aversa,  call- 
ed Asprino,   is  frequently  drunk  at  Naples. 

H41/2  S.  Antimo,  115l/2  M.  Frittta-Grumo,  US  M.  Casoria. 
Glimpses  of  Vesuvius  to  the  left.  The  train  passes  through  a 
tunnel,   and  describes  a  curve  round  the  city  towards  the'S.  W. 

124  M.  Naples,   see  p.  21. 

12* 


180 


15.    From  (Ancona)  Pescara  to  Solmona  and  Naples 
through  the  Abruzzi. 

From  Ancuna  to  Pescara,  91  M.,  by  railway  in  4-5'|2  hrs.;  fares  10  fr. 
45,  10  fr.  5,  S  fr.  25  c. 

Fkom  Pescaka  to  Solmona,  43'|2  M.,  by  railway  in  3  hrs. ;  fares  7  fr. 
60,  5  fr.  30,  3  fr.  at.  —  Fkom  Solmona  to  Caianiello  ,  about  76  M.,  by 
diligence  daily,  starting  from  Solmona  at  6  p.m.  and  arriving  at  Caianiello 
at  4  a.m.  (dep.  from  Caianiello  9  a.m.,  arr.  at  Solmona  7  p.m.).  —  Fkom 
Caianiello  to  Naples,  ol)  M.  ,  by  railway  in  3  hrs.;  fares  9  fr.  5,  6  fr. 
35  c,  or  8  fr.  60,  5  fr.  70,  4  fr.  10  c. 

Pescara,  see  p.  172.  — •  The  train  ascends  on  the  right  hank  of 
the  Pescara,   the  valley  of   which  gradually  contracts. 

9V2  M-  Chitti ;  the  town  lies  on  the  heights  to  the  S.,  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  line.  Chieti  (Soie  ,•  Albergo  Nuovo; 
Palomba  d'  Oro,  the  ancient  Teate  Marrucinorum,  capital  of  the 
province  of  Abruzzo  Citra,  with  23,600  inhab.,  is  a  clean  and  busy 
town.  From  the  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele  a  promenade  leads  round 
the  town,  affording  magnilicent  views  of  the  Majella  group,  the 
course  of  the  Pescara,  and  the  hill  country  extending  to  the  sea. 
The  order  of  the  Theatines ,  founded  in  1555  by  Paul  IV.,  who 
had  been  Archbishop  of  Ghieti,   derives  its  name  from  this  town. 

15  M.    Manopello,  IS  M.  Alanno ,  20  M.  -San  Valentino. 

24y2  M.    Torre  de   Passeri. 

Connoisseurs  of  early  Cbristian  architecture  should  visit  the  abbey 
of  S.  Clementu  di  Casauria,  25  mill,  from  Torre  de'  Passeri.  It  consists  of 
a  basilica  of  the  12th  cent. ,  with  ancient  sculptures ,  and  an  adjacent 
monastery ,  unfortunately  much  dilapidated.  This  was  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Interpromium,  relies  from  which  are  still  preserved  in  the  church. 

The  valley  of  the  Pescara  now  contracts  to  a  narrow  ravine, 
enclosed  by  abrupt  cliffs.     31  M.  Bussi. 

33  M.  Popoli  (* Locunda  dell'  America,  moderate;  Posta,  noisy), 
a  town  with  6700  inhab.,  deriving  considerable  traffic  from  its 
situation  at  the  junction  of  the  roads  from  Pescara,  Aquila  (It.  16), 
Avezzano  (R.  17),  and  Solmona  (see  below).  A  little  above  the 
town  the  Oizio  and  Aterno  unite  to  form  the  Pescara;  the  former, 
coming  from  the  ,S.,  flows  through  the  beautiful  valley  of  Solmona. 
The  town  is  commanded  by  the  ruined  castle  of  the  Cantelmi,  who 
were  once  masters  of  the  place. 

The  train  now  traverses  the  richly  cultivated  valley,  enclosed  by 
the  Majella  on  the  E.  and  the  mountains  of  the  Lago  di  Fucino 
on  the  W.    The  strong,  racy  wine  of  the  district  is  much  esteemed. 

36  M.  Pentimn.  A  short  distance  hence,  on  the  road  diverging 
to  Avezzano,  He  the  ruins  of  Corriniuni  (p.  1S5).  Beyond  (391/2  M.) 
Pmtola,  a  considerable  place,  the  train  passes  the  ancient  cathedral 
of  .S'.  Panfilo. 

42  M.  Solmona  (156Sft.;  omnibus  to  the  town,  3  VI.,  fare 
40  c.  ;  *Lncjindn  delta  Lomlmrdia;  Trattoria  delta  Forchella ,  in 
the  main   street),   with   15.0011  inhab.,   the  ancient  Sulmo  of  the 


The  Abruzzi.  ISERNIA.  15.  Route.      181 

Pseligni,  the  birthplace  of  Ovid,  who  was  much  attached  to  this 
his  'cool  home,  abounding  in  water',  as  he  calls  it,  is  pictures- 
quely situated,  being  commanded  on  two  sides  by  mountains,  and 
contains  several  mediaeval  buildings  of  architectural  interest.  Most 
of  the  old  palaces  have  Gothic  windows.  The  facade  of  the  hand- 
some *Town  Hall,  of  the  16th  cent.,  adorned  with  statues  of  popes, 
the  palace  of  Baron  Tabassi ,  in  a  side-street,  the  church  of  £. 
Maria  Annunziata,  and  the  facades  of  the  churches  of  S.  Francesco 
d'Assini  and  S.  Maria  della  Tomba,  though  all  more  or  less  injured 
by  the  earthquake  of  1803.  deserve  examination. 

The  Monti'  Amara  (9121  ft.),  the  highest  peak  of  the  Majella,  is  most 
conveniently  ascended  from  Solmona.  A  good  mule  (which  may  he  pro- 
cured by  applying  to  the  sindaco  at  Pacentro)  will  carry  the  traveller  all 
the  way  to  the  top.  The  route  is  by  Pticvntru  and  (Jampo  di  Giovr  (5  hrs.), 
where  the  previous  night  is  spent.     Thence  to  the  summit  2'|a  hrs.  more. 

Continuation  of  the  line  to  Aquila,  see  p.  185. 

The  Road  from  Solmona  to  Castel  di  Sangro  ('25  M.  ;  two -horse 
carr.  12  fr.)  traverses  the  plain  as  far  as  (5  M.)  Pettorano,  and  then 
ascends  in  long  windings  to  Rocca  Valloscura ,  a  village  situated 
in  a  rocky  ravine.  Beautiful  retrospects  of  the  valley  of  Solmona. 
After  a  farther  ascent  we  reach  the  culminating  point  (4200  ft.) 
of  the  road,  the  Piano  di  Cinquemiijlia,  a  table-land  enclosed  by 
mountains,  and  of  the  extent  indicated  by  the  name.  In  winter  it 
is  frequently  rendered  impassable  by  snow  for  several  months,  and 
in  summer  the  temperature  is  generally  low.  Beyond  this  plain 
the  road  inclines  to  the  left,  and  Rivisondoli  becomes  visible.  It 
then  leads  to  the  right  past  Roccarasa,  2t/2  M.  beyond  which  it 
descends  by  long  windings  to  the  valley  of  the  Sangro,  the  ancient 
Sangrus.  The  village  to  the  left  is  Rocca  Cinquemiglia.  We  now 
cross  the  river  to  — 

Castel  di  Sangro  (Hotel  du  Commerce,  in  the  Piazza),  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  broad  and  turbulent  Sangro,  picturesquely  situated 
at  the  foot  of  lofty  mountains.  Except  the  old  church  of  S.  Nicola 
by  the  bridge,  and  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  the  place  contains  nothing 
noteworthy. 

Diligence  hence  every  evening  to  (35  M.)  Lanciano  (p.  173). 

From  Castel  di  Sangro  to  Isemia,  22  M.  (diligence  in  5  hrs., 
fare  6  fr.).  The  road  ascends  the  heights  which  separate  the  valley 
of  the  Sangro  from  that  of  the  Vandra,  a  tributary  of  the  Voltnrno. 
Picturesque  view  from  the  summit;  to  the  left,  below,  the  town  of 
Forli  is  visible.  The  road  then  descends  by  the  villages  of  Rionero 
and  Vandria,  crosses  the  valley,  and  ascends  a  second  chain  of  hills. 
The  summit  commands  a  survey  of  the  extensive  valley  of  the 
Volturno  and  Isemia. 

Isernia  (*Locanda  di  Pettoroxxi),  the  ancient  Msernia  of  the 
Samnites ,  formerly  important  on  account  of  its  secure  position 
on  an  isolated  eminence,  is  now  a  closely  built ,  dirty  town",  con- 
sisting of  one  long  main  street.    A  few  Roman  antiquities  are  seen 


182      Route  16.  CAIANIELLO.  \  The  Abruzzi. 

near  S  Pietro  and  elsewhere ;  and  there  are  fragments  of  the  an- 
cient walls  in  the  polygonal  style.  In  the  autumn  of  1860  a  suc- 
cessful insurrection  of  the  Bourbonists,  characterised  by  many  ex- 
cesses, took  place  here,  but  was  soon  put  down  by  Cialdini. 

Archieologists  may  from  this  point  visit  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
Samnite  Boviain/m  (a  theatre  and  temple),  near  Pietrabbondaitte.  Road  to 
I'l-srolaiiriano  9  51.,    eorricolo  6  fr.  ;    thence  a  bridle-path  in  2  hrs. 

From  Isernia  diligence  daily  to  Camjiohasxii  (p.  173)  by  Boiano,  the 
ancient  Boviainim  Undeciiiiaiiorinii.  One-horse  carr.  from  Isernia  to  Ve- 
nafro 6  fr. 

From  Isernia  to  the  railway-station  of  Caianiello  (p.  7)  31  M. 
The  road  at  first  traverses  a  hilly  district,  passing  Macchia  on  the 
right,  and  then  enters  the  valley  of  the  Volturno  ,  which  it  crosses. 
It  traverses  the  broad  valley  on  the  right  bank,  and  (15  Al.)  reaches 
Venafro,  the  ancient  Venafrum,  a  small  town  rising  on  a  hill  and 
commanded  by  a  ruined  castle.  The  road  continues  to  skirt  the 
mountains;  the  Volturno  at  length  turns  to  the  S.,  and  we  soon 
reach  the  small  village  of  Caianiello  (poor  inn,  not  suitable  for 
spending  the  night),  a  station  on  the  railway  from  Konie  to  Naples. 

From  Caianiello  to  Naples,   see  R.  1. 


16.    From  Terni  to  Aquila  and  Solmona 

through  the  Abruzzi. 

This  route,  replete  with  very  picturesque  scenery,  traverses  the  moun- 
tainous district   in    the   interior   of  Italy. 

From  Terni  to  Aquila,  about  56  -U.,  diligence  twice  daily,  fare  13  fr.  : 
dep.  from  Terni  1  a.  m.  and  12  noon,  arr.  at  Aquila  II  a.  m.  and  10  p.  m. 
(those  who  wish  to  visit  the  falls  of  Terni  and  catch  the  diligence  above 
them ,  should  take  care  to  reach  the  top  not  later  than  3J4  hr.  after  the 
coach  has  left  Terni) ;  dep.  from  Aquila  4  a.  m.  and  '2  p.  m. ,  arr.  at 
Terni  2  p.  m.  and  12  midnight. 

From  Aquila  to  .Solmona,  37'|2  M.,  railway  in  2'[2  hrs.;  fares  G  fr.  80, 
4  fr.  75,  2  fr.  75  c.  —  Journey  from  Aquila  to  Naples,  see  It.  17;  from 
Solmona  to  Naples,  see  R.   15. 

Leaving  Terni,  the  road  ascends  the  heights  whence  the  water- 
falls of  the  Velino  descend  (see  Baedeker's  Central  Italy )  and  tra- 
verses a  mountainous  and  wooded  district  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river.  Where  it  reaches  the  plain  of  Rieti,  it  describes  a  long  curve 
at  the  foot  of  the  heights,  as  far  as  the  point  where  the  moun- 
tains approach  the  river  (a  short  cut,  available  in  dry  weather  only, 
leads  straight  across  the  plain).  The  road  now  crosses  the  Velino 
by  the  Ponte  di  Terria,  to  the  left  of  which  is  the  influx  of  the 
Turano,   and  follows  the  right  bank  to  (3  M.)  Kieti. 

Another  road,  a  little  longer,  but  far  more  picturesque,  diverges  from 
the  height  above  the  waterfalls  to  the  left  and  crosses  to  the  right  bank 
of  the  river.  It  soon  reaches  the  beautiful  mountain-lake  of  Piedilngo  and 
leads  along  its  spacious  bays  to  the  village  of  the  same  name,  this  being 
the  shorter  half  of  the  route.  The  remaining  part  traverses  mountain 
and  forest  till  if  reaches  the  plain  of  Kieti,  where  it  crosses  the  Pit///ulru//e, 
a  tributary  of  the  Velino,  fed  by  several  small  lakes.  (In  the  riL'ht  is  the 
lake  of  Kipii    Holiili:,  on  the  left'  that  of  I'npi,  il,  An/ua. 


The  Abruzzi.  RIETI.  16.  Route.      183 

Hieti  ( Campana ;  Cuffe  d'ltnlin),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Velino 
(14,500  inhab.J,  the  ancient  Reate,  was  once  a  settlement  of  the 
Umbri,  and  subsequently  the  capital  of  the  Samnites,  but  no  traces 
of  the  ancient  city  remain  save  a  few  inscriptions  preserved  in 
the  town-hall.  The  cathedral,  dating  from  1456,  contains  a  S. 
Barbara  by  Bernini ,  and  the  monument  of  Isabella  Alfani  by 
Thorvaldsen;  fine  view  in  front  of  the  edifice.  Near  Kieti  is  a 
beetroot  sugar  manufactory ,  where  the  attempt  was  first  made  to 
introduce  this  branch,  of  industry  into  S.  Italy. 

From  Rieti  to  Rome  diligence  daily  at  9  a.  m.  via  Poggio  Mirieto  to 
Passo  di  Correse,  a  station  on  the  line  from  Orta  to  Rome;  and  thence  by 
railway. 

Excursions  may  be  made  from  Rieti  to  the  picturesque  mountain  scenery 
of  the  Central  Apennines,  though  not  unattended  by  difficulties  on  account 
of  the  indifferent  character  of  the  inns  and  roads.  Thus  to  Leonessa,  19  M. 
distant,  erected  in  a  lofty  mountain  ravine  about  the  year  1252 ;  thence  to 
($llz  M.)  Casi-ia,  said  to  be  the  ancient  scat  of  the  Casci,  or  aborigines  of 
the  district;  7  M.  farther  to  Xorcia,  the  ancient  Nitrsia,  nearly  destroyed 
by  an  earthquake  in  1S57.  with  walls  of  great  antiquity,  birthplace  of 
Vespasia  Pollia,  mother  of  the  emperor  Vespasian,  whose  family  monu- 
ments were  situated  at  Vespasia,  7  M.  distant.  St.  Benedict  and  his  sister 
Scholastica  were  also  natives  of  Nursia. 

From  Norcia  mountain-roads  lead  to  Spoleto  and  Ascoli  (p.  163).  The 
return  route  may  also  be  accomplished  by  Acatmoli  and  Civita  Keale  through 
the  valley  of  the  Velino  to  Antrodoco,  or  by  Araimoli,  Amatrire,  and  Monte- 
ri-ale  to  Aquila  (see  below). 

From  Kieti  the  road  winds  upwards  through  a  picturesque 
district  in  the  valley  of  the  Velino  to  (20  M. )  Antrodoco.  Near 
Casotta  di  Napoli  is  the  hill  of  Lesta,  with  traces  of  very  ancient 
fortifications ,  said  to  have  once  been  the  capital  of  the  fabled 
aborigines.  Civita  Ducale,  o'/o  M.  from  Rieti,  founded  in  130i"> 
by  Robert,  Duke  of  Calabria,  was  formerly  the  frontier -town  of 
the  Neapolitan  dominions.  The  country  between  this  point  and 
Antrodoco  is  remarkably  picturesque  ;  the  mountains  are  clothed 
with  forest ,  and  their  lower  slopes  with  vineyards  and  olives. 
About  4'/2M.  from  Civita  Ducale  the  road  passes  the  Sulphur 
Baths  of  Paterno,  the  ancient  Aquae  Cutiliue.  which  were  regularly 
frequented  by  Vespasian,  and  where  he  died  in  A.D.  79.  The 
Pozzo  di  Latignano ,  the  ancient  Lacus  Cutitiae ,  was  regarded  by 
Varro  as  the  central  point  ('umbilicus')  of  Italy.  The  ancient 
Via  Salara  here  ascended  the  valley  of  the  Velino  by  Ascoli  to 
Atri,  the  Roman  Hadria. 

Antrodoco,  Lat.  Interocrea,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Velino, 
is  commanded  on  the  N.  li.  by  the  lofty  Monte  Culvo ;  on  the  hill 
is  the  ruined  castle  of  the  Vitelli.  The  road  to  Aquila,  20  M. 
distant,  leads  through  a  defile,  enclosed  by  mountain  and  forest, 
which  has  frequently  been  defended  with  success  in  warlike  periods. 
The  scenery  is  tine  the  whole  way.  The  valley  becomes  very 
narrow.  After  4  M .  we  reach  the  watershed  between  the  Tyrrhenian 
Sea  and  the  Adriatic.  The  road  passes  Rocca  di  Corno  and  de- 
scends into  the  valley  of  the  Aterno.  Aquila,  on  a  hill  opposite  us, 
at  length  comes  in  sight. 


184      Route  16.  AQUILA.  The  Abruzzi. 

Aquila  (*Locanda  Leone,  in  the  Corso,'  * del  Sole,  Piazza  del 
Palazzo;  *del  Teatro  Nuovo;  all  moderate)  (2398  ft.),  founded  by 
the  Emp.  Frederick  II.  as  a  check  on  papal  encroachments,  now 
the  capital  of  the  province  of  Abruzzo  Ultra  II.,  with  16,600  in- 
liab.,  spacious  streets,  and  handsome  palaces,  is  the  most  attractive 
and  interesting  town  in  these  provinces.  It  enjoys  a  pure  and 
healthy  atmosphere  owing  to  its  lofty  situation,  and  is  commanded 
by  the  Gran  Sasso  d'ltalia  (p.  185),  which  rises  abruptly  to  a 
height  of  6000  ft. 

From  the  Piazza  del  Palazzo,  on  the  left  side  of  which  is  the 
post-office,  the  Strada  del  Princ.  Umberto  to  the  right  leads  to  the 
Corso,  which  we  follow  in  a  straight  direction  to  the  church  of  8. 
Bernardino  di  Siena.  The  *facade  was  executed  with  great  artistic 
taste  in  1 0*2:1-42  by  Cola  dell'  Amatrice.  In  the  interior,  on  the 
right,  is  the  *monument  of  the  saint,  decorated  with  arabesques 
and  sculpture ,  executed  by  Silvestro  Salviati  in  1505.  The 
1st  Chapel  on  the  right  contains  a  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  and  a 
Resurrection  by  della  Robbia. 

From  8.  Bernardino  we  descend  a  flight  of  steps  and,  pass- 
ing through  the  Porta  di  Collemaggio  to  the  left,  arrive  in  5  min. 
at  the  opposite  monastery  of  S.  Maria  di  Collemaggio.  The  Gothic 
*facade,  inlaid  with  coloured  marble,  consists  of  three  portals  and 
three  corresponding  rose-windows.  The  niches  of  the  principal 
portal  contain  several  statuettes  of  saints.  Contiguous  to  the 
church  is  an  ancient  and  remarkably  small  clock-tower.  Interior 
gaudily  modernised.  iTo  the  left  is  the  Chapel  of  Celestine  (keys  at 
the  Municipio).  Celestine  V.  was  elected  pope  in  1294.  His  life 
and  acts  have  been  represented  in  a  series  of  pictures  by  the  Cele- 
stinian  monk  Ruter,   a  pupil  of  Rubens. 

The  handsome  *Town  Hall  in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele 
contains,  in  the  passage  and  on  the  walls  of  the  staircase,  a 
valuable  collection  of  Roman  inscriptions  ;  also  portraits  of  natives 
of  the  place  who  acted  a  prominent  part  in  the  history  of  Italy 
in  the  16th  and  17tli  centuries.  Several  pictures  of  the  old  Aquilan 
school,  most  of  them  restored,  will  interest  the  connoisseur. 

The  *  Palazzo  Torres,  below  the  Piazza  Grande,  contains  a 
picture-gallery  with  an  admirable  *portrait  of  Cardinal  Torres  by 
Domenichino ;  Stoning  of  St.  Stephen  by  the  same  master,  on 
copper;  Eucharist,  by  Titian,  on  marble.  The  Palazzo  Drago- 
netti  also  contains  pictures,  the  best  by  Pompeo  d'  Aquila  of 
the    16th  cent. 

Ascending  the  Corso,  a  gate  on  the  right  leads  us  to  the  Citadel, 
a  massive  square  edifice  with  low  round  towers,  constructed  by  a 
Spaniard  in  1543  under  Charles  V.,  surrounded  by  a  inoat.  This 
point  affords  the  best,  view  of  the  Gran  Sasso,  the  town,  and  the 
mountainous  environs.  (Application  for  admission  must  be  made 
to  an  officer.) 


The  Abruzzi.  GRAN  SA880.  16.  Route.      185 

Between  Aquila  and  the  hill  of  S.  Lorenzo,  Braocio  Fortebraecio 
da  Montone,  the  dreaded  rival  of  Sforza,  was  defeated  and  wound- 
ed by  the  united  armies  of  Queen  Johanna  II.  of  Naples  ,  Pope 
Martin  V.  and  the  Duke  of  Milan,  commanded  by  Jacopo  Caldora, 
on  2nd  June,  1414;  and  three  days  later  he  died  of  his  wound. 

About  3  M.  to  the  E.  is  the  village  of  <S'.  Vittorino  on  the  Aterno,  occupy- 
ing the  site  of  the  celebrated  ancient  Sabine  town  of  AniUtrmim,  where 
the  historian  Sallust  was  burn.  On  an  eminence  which  was  once  crowned 
by  the  ancient  Arx,  or  citadel,  stands  an  old  tower  with  inscriptions  and 
sculptures  built  into  the  walls.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  are  remains  of 
a  theatre,  an  amphitheatre,  and  other  buildings  of  the  imperial  epoch,  where 
antiquities  are  frequently  found. 

A  new  road  leads  from  Aquila  through  the  Aterno  valley,  the  wild 
passes  of  Mte.  San  Franco,  the  ravine  of  Totta,  by  Senaria-ia,  and  then 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Vomano  to  (47  31.)   Teramo  on  the  Tordino  (p.  1 72). 

The  Ascent  of  the  Gran  Sasso  d'Italia  ,  l'Ja  day  there  and  back, 
is  most  conveniently  undertaken  from  Aquila.  Information  is  kindly  given 
by  some  of  the  members  of  the  Italian  Alpine  Club,  whose  addresses  may 
be  procured  of  the  Sindaco .  or  at  the  Casino.  (Letters  of  introduction 
desirable.  Simplice  and  Carbone  are  good  guides.)  We  dri\  e  in  2l\z  hrs. 
to  Assergi,  ride  thence  (mule  4-5  fr.)  in  3  hrs.  to  the  Canijio  Fi'riculo, 
where  a  refuge-hut  is  being  built,  and  ascend  thence  to  the  summit  on 
foot  in  2'|2-3  hrs.  The  Gran  Sasso  d'Italia,  or  Mvnto  Cvrno  (9816  ft.)  is 
the  highest  peak  of  the  Apennines.  In  formation  it  resembles  the  limestone 
Alps  of  Switzerland.  The  view  is  strikingly  grand,  embracing  the  Tyrrhenian 
Sea,  the  Adriatic,  the  rocky  Dalmatian  coast,  and  the  whole  of  Central  Italy. 

From  Aquila  to  Solmoxa ,  37'/2  M.,  railway  (p.  182),  de- 
scending the  valley  of  the  Aterno.  f>  M.  Paganica,  10  M.  S.  De- 
metrio,  14  M.  Fagnano.  The  valley  contracts.  Numerous  tunnels. 
17  M.  Fontecchio  ,  20  M.  Beffi ,  23  M.  Accinno,  26  M.  Molina, 
31  M.  Rajano,  all  unimportant  places  with  1000-3000  inhab.  each. 

On  the  road  from  Rajano  to  Popoli,  I1  j2  31.  to  the  N.E.,  a  little  on  this 
side  of  the  village  of  Pentima  (keys  kept  by  one  of  the  canons  there),  is 
situated  the  cathedral  of  *>S.  Peli/to,  of  the  13th  century.  The  architecture 
is  very  interesting,  but  the  interior  has  unfortunately  been  modernised. 
Old  pulpit.  Chapel  of  St.  Alexander  of  the  16th  century.  —  On  the  lofty 
sim-ounding  plain  He  the  ruins  of  the  extensive  ancient  city  of  Corfininm, 
once  the  capital  of  the  Pseligni.  In  B.C.  90  it  was  constituted  the  federal 
capital  of  the  Italians  during  their  struggle  against  the  Romans  for  in- 
dependence, and  called  Italica,  but  a  few  years  later  it  had  to  succumb 
to  the  Romans.  The  arches  of  an  aqueduct  are  the  most  conspicuous  of 
the  ruins. 

The  train  suddenly  enters  the  beautiful  valley  of  Solmona. 
Opposite  to  us  rise  the  precipitous  slopes  of  the  Majella. 

37'/2  M-  Solmona,  see  p.  180. 


17.    From  Aquila  to  Avezzano  and  Roccasecca 

(Naples). 

From  Aquila  to  Avezzano,  about  35  31.,  a  new  road;  diligence  daily 
at  8.30  a.m.,  arriving  at  Avezzano  at  3.30  p.m.  (from  Avezzano  at  7  a.m., 
arr.  at  Aquila  at  3  p.m.).  —  From  Avezzano  to  Koccasecoa,  about  42>J2  31. ; 
diligence  daily  at  10  a.m.  and  4  p.m. ,  arriving  at  Roccasecca  at  9  p.m. 
and  2  a.m.  (from  Roccaseeca  at  3  and  at  10  a.m.  ,  arriving  at  Avezzano 
at  1.30  and  9  p.m.).  These  diligences  correspond  with  the  trains  of  the 
Rome  and  Naples  railway,  and  the  hours  vary. 


186      Route  17.  LACUS  FUCINUS.  The  Abruzzi. 

The  road  leaves  Aquila  by  the  Porta  llomana,  descends  into  the 
valley  of  the  Aterno,  crosses  the  railway,  and  ascends  gradually 
through  vineyards.  Beyond  Ocre  it  passes  through  a  grove  of  oaks. 
Looking  back,  we  obtain  a  beautiful  view  of  Aquila  and  the  Gran 
Sasso  ;  farther  on  we  observe  the  Majella  to  the  S.E.  Numerous 
villages  lie  scattered  over  the  surrounding  slopes.  We  at  length 
reach  the  lofty  plain,  and  then  (16  M.)  Boccn  di  Mezzo,  a  miserable 
village,  where  horses  are  changed.  The  road  is  level  for  some  dis- 
tance;  it  then  ascends  and  crosses  the  summit  of  the  pass  (S'/a  M. 
from  Kocea),  not  far  from  Ovindoli,  a  village  picturesquely  com- 
manded by  a  castle. 

The  road  now  descends  rapidly  in  windings  ,  commanding  an 
admirable  *view  of  the  plain  of  the  Lago  di  Fucino.  The  castle  of 
Celano  next  comes  in  sight,  and  then  the  town  itself ,  which  we 
reach  in  3/4  hr.  more. 

Celano,  a  town  ,with  lOOOinhab.,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a 
hill,  and  from  it  the  Lago  di  Fucino  is  sometimes  called  Lago  di. 
Celano.  The  Castle  (*viewj,  erected  in  1450,  was  once  occupied  by 
the  unfortunate  Countess  Covella,  who  was  taken  prisoner  by  her 
son  Kugierotto.  She  was  soon  restored  to  liberty,  but  in  1463  her 
domains  were  bestowed  by  Ferdinand  of  Arragon  upon  his  son-in- 
law  Antonio  Piccolomini,  Duke  of  Amain,  and  nephew  of  Pius  II. 
Celano  was  the  birthplace  of  Thomas  of  Celano  (d.  1253) ,  the 
supposed  author  of  the  celebrated  requiem,    'Dies  ine,   dies  ilia'. 

The  now  drained  Lago  di  Fucino  ('2181  ft. ),  the  ancient  Lucus 
F acinus ,  was  once  37  M.  in  circumference  and  65  ft.  in  depth. 
Owing  to  the  want  of  an  outlet,  the  surface  of  the  lake  was  subject 
to  great  variations  which  were  frequently  fraught  with  disastrous 
results  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  banks.  Attempts  were  therefore 
made  to  drain  the  lake  in  ancient  times,  but  it  is  only  very  recently 
that  this  object  has  been  finally  accomplished.  The  completion  of 
the  works  took  place  in  the  spring  of  1875,  and  the  small  sheet  of 
water  which  still  remains,  barely  2  M.  in  circumference,  will  soon 
be  drawn  off. 

The  earliest  sufferers  from  the  inundations  were  the  ancient  Marsi,  in 
consequence  of  whose  complaints  Ca\sar  formed  the  project  of  affording  a 
permanent  remedy  for  the  evil ,  but  the  work  was  not  begun  till  the 
reign  of  the  Emp.  Claudius.  The  bottom  of  the  lake  lies  about  80  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  Liris  at  Capistrello,  and  the  plan  was  to  con- 
struct a  tunnel,  or  emixxarii/s ,  through  the  intervening  Monte  Salviano. 
"No  fewer  than  30,000  men  were  employed  in  the  execution  of  the  work 
during  eleven  years.  This  was  the  most  gigantic  undertaking  of  the 
kind  ever  known  before  the  construction  of  the  )Iont  Cenis  tunnel.  The 
length  of  the  passage  was  upwards  of  3M/y  M.,  and  for  about  J3/*  M.  of  that 
distance  it  was  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  The  transverse  measurement  of 
the  tunnel  varied  from  4  to  16  sq.  yds.,  and  in  other  respects  also  the 
work  was  entirely  destitute  of  uniformity.  The  greatest  depth  of  the 
tunnel  below  the  surface  of  the  earth  was  298  ft.,  and  33  shafts  were 
constructed  for  the  admission  of  air  and  the  removal  of  rubbish.  With 
a  view  to  inaugurate  the  completion  of  the  work,  A.l).  52,  Claudius 
arranged  a  sanguinary  gladiatorial    naval  contest,    which  was  attended  bv 


The  Abruzzi.  AVEZZANO.  17.  Route.      187 

a  vast  concourse  of  spectators,  but  it  was  foundji  necessary  to  deepen  the 
tunnel,  and  it  was  again  opened  with  renewed  festivities,  as  Tacitus  re- 
cords (Ann.  12,  57).  Ancient  writers  stigmatise  the  work  as  an  entire 
failure,  but  their  strictures  are  not  altogether  well  founded,  for  it  was 
obviously  never  intended  to  drain  the  whole  lake,  but  merely  to  reduce 
it  tii  one-third  of  its  original  size.  Serious  errors  had,  however,  been 
committed  in  the  construction  of  the  tunnel,  and  especially  in  that  of  the 
channel  which  conducted  the  water  to  the  emissarius.  Claudius  died  in 
54,  and  nothing  farther  was  done  in  the  matter.  Trajan  and  Hadrian 
partially  remedied  the  defects,  but  the  channel  and  the  emissarius  itself 
afterwards  became  choked  up.  Frederick  II.  attempted  to  re-open  the 
tunnel,  but  the  task  was  far  beyond  the  reach  of  mediaeval  skill.  After 
the  year  1783  the  lake  rose  steadily,  and  by  1810  it  had  risen  upwards 
of  30  ft.  Efforts  were  now  made  under  the  superintendence  of  Rivera  to 
restore  the  Roman  emissarius,  but  under  the  Bourbon  regime  there  seemed 
little  prospect  that  the  task  would  ever  be  completed.  In  1852  the  govern- 
ment was  accordingly  induced  to  make  a  grant  of  the  lake  to  a  company 
on  condition  that  they  would  undertake  to  drain  it,  and  the  sole  privilege 
was  soon  afterwards  purchased  from  them  by  Prince  Torlonia  of  Rome. 
31.  de  Montricher,  a  Swiss,  the  constructor  of  the  aqueduct  of  Marseilles  (d- 
at  Naples  in  1858),  and  his  pupil  Bermont  (d.  1870),  and  subsequently  M. 
Brisse  have  conducted  the  works.  The  difficulties  encountered  were  pro- 
digious, and  the  natives  were  frequently  heard  to  indulge  in  the  jest,  'o 
Torlonia  secca  il  Fucino,  o  il  Fucino  secca  Torlonia1.  in  1862,  however, 
the  emissarius  was  at  length  re-opened.  It  is  an  extension  of  the 
Roman  work,  but  longer  and  wider,  and  constructed  with  the  utmost 
care.  It  is  nearly  4  M.  long,  and  a  transverse  section  measures  about  21  sq. 
yds.  The  beginning  of  it  is  marked  by  a  huge  lock,  erected  in  a  massive 
style.  This  is  the  outlet  of  the  channel  which  is  intended  to  keep  the 
lowest  portions  of  the  basin  drained.  A  broad  road,  about  35  M.  in  length, 
runs  round  the  reclaimed  land  (36,000  acres  in  extent.),  which  is  con- 
verted into  a  vast  model  farm,  colonised  by  families  from  the  princess 
different  estates. 

The  road  traverses  the  old  bed  of  the  lake  and  next  reaches 
Avezzano,  a  drive  of  1  hr.  from  Celano. 

Avezzano  (*Locanda  d' Italia),  with  6000  inhab.,  possesses  a 
chateau  built  by  the  Colonnas  and  now  belonging  to  the  Barberini, 
and  a  few  inscriptions  at  the  Tribunale.  It  is  a  good  starting-point 
for  a  number  of  excursions,  and  particularly  for  a  visit  to  the  re- 
claimed Lago  di  Fucino.    (Marco  Fiorano  is  a  good  vetturino. ) 

An  excursion  to  Lugo  ,  6  31.  from  Avezzano,  will  afford  the  traveller 
a  good  opportunity  of  inspecting  the  drainage  operations.  He  should  drive 
to  the  entrance  of  the  new  outlet,  and  get  the  custodian  to  conduct  him 
thence  to  the  ancient  emissarius.  —  Luco,  now  an  uninteresting  place, 
was  the  fj-ucua  Angitiae  of  the  ancients,  and  was  called  after  a  temple  of 
the  goddess  of  that  name.  The  site  of  the  temple  is  now  occupied  by  the 
venerable  Benedictine  Church  of  8.  Maria  di  Luco,  situated  on  the  X. 
side  of  the  village,  and  dating  from  the  6th  or  7th  cent.  Extensive  remains 
of  walls  in  the  polygonal  style  mark  the  boundary  of  the  Temenos  ,  or 
sacred  precincts  of  the  temple.  Fine  view  hence,  as  well  as  from  all  the 
hills  around  the  lake. 

On  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake  lies  the  village  of  San  Benedetto,  on  the 
site  of  Marrubium,  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Marsi ,  extensive  remains  of 
which  are  still  to  be  seen. 

To  the  N.  of  the  lake,  rising  abruptly  from  the  plain,  is  situated  the 
double-peaked  Monte  Velino  (8202  ft.),  visible  from  Rome.  At  its  base, 
4  31.  from  Avezzano,  lies  the  village  of  Albe  ,  the  ancient  Alba  Fuce/itia. 
It  lay  on  the  confines  of  the  territories  of  the  Yestini,  Marsi,  and  YEqui, 
and  having  received  a  Roman  colony  of  6000  souls,  15.  (J.  30;j .  it  became 
the  most  powerful  Roman  stronghold  in  the  interior  of  Italy.     It  occupied 


188      Routt  17.  SORA.  The  Abruzzi. 

Hi  ret;  contiguous  groups  of  hills.  On  the  \V.  side  a  triple  wall  in  the 
polygonal  style  is  still  extant,  while  in  the  plain  rises  a  vast  tumulus. 
Remains  of  the  Via  Valeria,  which  led  from  Tivoli  to  Corfinium  by  Alba, 
of  an  amphitheatre,  etc.,  are  also  traceable.  The  most  important  monu- 
ment of  antiquity,  however,  is  the  :::Temple,  which  has  been  converted 
into  a  church  of  ,S'.  Pietro,  with  eight  Corinthian  columns  of  marble  in 
the  interior.     Fine  view  of  the  valley. 

Feom  Avezzano  to  Tagliacozzo,  IO1/2  M.,  diligence  once  daily.  The 
road  passes  ft'-itrcola  (fine  view  from  above  the  old  castle)  and  the  Campi 
Palenli/ii,  where,  on  26th  Aug.  1268,  the  young  Conradin  of  Hohenstaufen, 
the  last  scion  of  that  illustrious  imperial  house,  was  defeated  by  Charles 
I.  of  Anjou,  acting  under  the  advice  of  the  aged  Chevalier  Alard  de  St. 
Valery.  Charles  afterwards  caused  the  beautiful,  but  now  ruined  church 
of  >S'.  Maria  delta  Vittoria  0|4  M.  from  Scurcola,  to  the  right  of  road)  to 
be  erected  on  the  spot  by  Kiccolo  Pisano,  a  Madonna  from  which  is  still 
preserved  in  the  church  of  S.  Maria  at  Scurcola. 

Tagliacozzo  (Trattoria  by  the  gate,  on  the  left)  lies  on  the  margin  of 
a  deep  ravine  from  which  the  Imele  emerges.  The  sources  of  the  Liris 
near  Oappadoeia  may  be  visited  hence  on  foot  in  I1!'*  hr. 

From  Tagliacozzo  a  horse  or  mule  (6-7  fr.)  may  be  taken  to  (1  hr.) 
Purcft  di  Ci'rro,  l^'f-j  hrs.)  Carsoli  (Locanda  Stella),  the  ancient  Carseoti, 
with  an  ancient  castle,  and  (l'/'j  hr.)  Arsoli.  This  route  was  the  ancient  Via 
Valeria.  From  Arsoli  a  carriage  -  road  leads  by  Vicovaro  to  Tivoli,  12  M. 
(carr.  with  one  horse  7-8  fr.). 

The  drive  from  Avezzano  to  Rocoasecca  through  the  valley  of 
the  Liris  (to  Sora  in  5  hrs.)  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  in  Italy. 
The  road  traverses  the  Monte  Salviano,  and  reaches  (7  M.)  Capis- 
trello,  where  the  emissarius  of  the  Lago  di  Fucino  issues  from  the 
mountain.  It  then  follows  the  left  bank  of  the  Liris.  On  a  height 
on  the  right  bank  lies  (4  M.J  CiviteUa  Roveto,  the  capital  of  the 
Vol  di  Roveto,  as  the  upper  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Liris,  as  far 
as  Sora,  is  called.  Then,  to  the  left,  Civita  d'Antino,  the  Antinum 
of  the  Marsi,  with  several  relics  of  antiquity.  To  the  right  of  the 
river  lies  Morino,  whence  the  beautiful  waterfall  of  Lo  Schioppo, 
5  M.  distant,  may  be  visited.  Beautiful  oak  and  chestnut  woods 
are  seen  in  every  direction. 

A  charming  mountainous  district  is  now  traversed ,  and  we 
next  reach  ('12' /o  M.    from   Roveto)  the  town  of  — 

Sora  (Liri,  Hotel  di  Roma,  both  tolerable),  with  12,000 
inhab..  situated  in  the  plain,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Liris,  which 
flows  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle  round  the  crowded  houses  of 
the  town.  The  Romans  wrested  the  place  from  the  Volsci,  and 
founded  a  powerful  colony  here,  B.  C.  303.  The  cathedral  stands 
on  ancient  sub.-triictions.  On  the  precipitous  rock  above  the  town 
are  remains  of  polygonal  walls,  belonging  to  the  ancient  Arx, 
and  also  traces  of  mediaeval  castles.  The  town  was  the  native 
place  of  several  celebrated  men,  and  the  residence  of  others 
(the  Deoii,  Atilius  Regulus,  the  orator  Q.  Valerius,  L.  Mum- 
mius,  etc.).  The  learned  Cardinal  Cajsar  Baronius  was  born 
at  Sora  in  lfi3S,  and  died  at  Rome  in  1607  as  librarian  of  the 
Vatican.    Sora  forms,   as  it  were,   the  key  of  the  Abruzzi. 

The  road  from  Sora  to  Isola.  6  M.,  traverses  the  well  culti- 
vated valley,  following  the  left  bank  of  the  river.     The  abundance 


The  Abruzzi.  ISOLA.  17.  Route.      189 

of  water  here  imparts  a  freshness  and  charm  to  the  scenery  which 
are  rarely  met  with  in  warm  climates.  To  the  left  the  Fibreno 
falls  into  the  Liris. 

In  the  former  stream,  near  its  mouth,  lies  the  /sola  8.  Paolo,  on 
which  a  monastery  was  founded  by  the  Benedictine  S.  Domenico  Abbate, 
a  native  ofFoligno.  Hildebrand,  afterwards  Pope  Gregory  VII.,  was  once 
a  monk  here.  The  island  is  also  supposed  to  be  the  Insula  Arpinas,  the 
birthplace  of  Cicero,,  the  scene  of  his  dialogue  'de  legibus\  The  dilapi- 
dated abbey-church  is  said  to  have  been  constructed  on  the  ruins  of  the 
illustrious  orator's  villa.  The  latter  was  erected  by  his  grandfather,  and 
embellished  by  his  father,  who  devoted  his  leisure  to  the  study  of  science 
here,  and  it  was  therefore  a  favourite  retreat  of  Cicero  himself,  and  is 
described  by  him  in  his  treatise  l>e  Leg.  2,  3.  In  the  reign  of  Doinitian 
the  villa  belonged  to  the  poet  Silius  Italicus.  The  Liris  was  crossed  by  an 
ancient  bridge  above  the  island,  the  'Polite  di  Citeroue1,  one  of  the  three 
arches  of  which  is  still  standing. 

In  the  neighbourhood  are  several  manufactories ,  chiefly  of 
paper  (cartiera) ,  surrounded  by  well-kept  gardens.  The  most 
important  of  these  is  the  Cartiera  del  Fibreno,  founded  by 
M.  Lefevre,  a  Frenchman,  now  Count  of  Balzorano.  The  gardens 
connected  with  it  contain  the  picturesque  waterfalls  (Le  Casca- 
telle)  of  the  Liris  and  the  Fibreno.  The  cool  water  of  the  latter 
is  praised    by  Cicero.     From  this  point  the  road  descends  to  — 

Isola ,  a  small  town  with  5600  inhab.  ,  which ,  as  its  name 
indicates,  stands  on  an  island  in  the  Liris.  It  is  sometimes  called 
Isola  del  Liri  to  distinguish  it  from  places  of  the  same  name.  The 
two  arms  of  the  river  here  form  two  magnificent  waterfalls,  SO  ft. 
in  height.  That  on  the  E.  side,  a  view  of  which  is  obtained  from 
the  bridge  as  the  town  is  entered,  is  a  perpendicular  fall,  while 
the  other  and  more  picturesque  cascade  descends  over  an  inclined 
plane  about  160  yds.  in  length. 

A  road  passing  the  paper-mills  above  Isola  winds  upwards  to  (2'|-2jM.) 
Arpino  (Locanda  delta  Pace,  near  the  Piazza,  small,  but  clean),  a  finely 
situated  town  with  11,500  inhab.,  the  ancient  Volscian  mountain-town  of 
Aipiimm,  and  celebrated  as  the  native  place  of  Marius  and  Cicero.  The 
houses  in  which  they  were  born  are  still  pointed  out  to  the  credulous. 
The  Town  Hall  in  the  Piazza  is  embellished  with  busts  of  ilarius,  Cicero, 
and  Agrippa.  A  bombastic  inscription  here  runs  thus :  'Arpinum  a 
Saturno  conditum,  Volscorum  civitatem,  Romanorum  municipiuni,  Marci 
Tullii  Ciceronis  eloquentise  Principis  et  Cai  Marii  sept.ies  Consulis 
patriam  ingredere  viator :  hine  ad  imperium  triumphalis  aquila  egressa 
urbi  totum  orbem  subjecit :  ejus  dignitatem  agnoscas  et  sospes  esto'.  The 
fountain  to  the  right  of  the  town-hall  bears  the  cognisance  of  Arpino, 
consisting  of  two  towers  over  which  the  Roman  eagle  hovers.  Weavers 
and  fullers  are  frequently  mentioned  in  old  inscriptions  found  here,  and, 
according  to  Dio  Cassius,  Cicero's  father  belonged  to  the  latter  handicraft. 
Arpino  was  the  native  place  of  the  well-known  painter  Giuseppe  Cesari 
(1560-1640),  more  commonly  known  as  the  Cavaliere  d'Arpino,  whose 
house  is  still  pointed  out. 

The  town  consists  of  four  quarters.  The  western  quarter  ('civitas1) 
lies  on  an  abrupt  eminence,  connected  with  the  town  by  a  narrow  isthmus. 
This  was  the  site  of  the  ancient  Arx.  On  the  summit  stands  a  small 
octagonal  church,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view.  The  town  itself  rises 
on  the  slope  of  a  still  higher  hill.  The  greater  part  of  the  ancient  wall, 
consisting  of  large  irregular  blocks  of  stone,  broken  at  intervals  by  mediaeval 
round  towers,  is  still  preserved,  and  may  be  traced  throughout    its  whole 


190     Route  18.  ISARLETTA.  From  Foggia 

extent.  The  ascent  should  he  made  on  the  N.  side.  On  the  hill  lies  the 
Civitii  IV'vA/a,  or  old  town.  In  the  wall  here  is  the  Porta  dell"'  Arcv,  a 
remarkable  gateway  with  a  pointed  arch. 

From  Arpino  to  Roccasecca  is  a  drive  of  2'|'2  hrs.  ;  two-horse  carr.  6  fr. 

From  Isola  to  Roccasecca  13  M.  The  road  continues  to  follow 
the  left  bank  of  the  river.  To  the  right  is  the  loftily  situated 
town  of  Monte  San  Giovanni.  To  the  left  lies  Fontana;  then 
Arce ,  and  Rocca  d'Arce,  the  ancient  Arx  Volscorum,  in  a 
strikingly  picturesque  situation. 

From  Roccasecca  to  Naples,   see  p.   3  et  seq. 


pl8.    From  Foggia  to  Brindisi  and  the  Apnlian 
Peninsula. 

Railway  to  Brhulisi,  146  M.,  in  4'|2-6'|2  hrs. :,  fares  26  fr.  45,  18  fr.  50, 
10  fr.  60  c.  feomp.  p.  170).  —  From  Brindisi  to  Otrrnito,  54  M.,  in  3i|i  hrs.; 
fares  9  fr.  75,  6  fr.  85,  3  fr.  90  c. ;  only  two  through-trains  daily.  —  Ex- 
cursions in  the  country  are  usually  made  here  in  two-wheeled  Sciari'aba's 
(a  corruption  of  the  French  'char-a-bancs'),  resembling  the  Neapolitan  cor- 
ricolo's.  The  average  charge  per  day  is  6-7  fr. ,  fee  included,  and  the 
average  journey  30-35  31. 

Foggia,  see  p.  174.  On  the  right  lies  an  extensive  plain,  the 
Tavoliere  di  Puglia.  Beyond  it,  to  the  ,S.,  rises  Mte.  Vulture  near 
Mclfi  fp.  198). 

12i/2  M.  Orta  Nova.  22  M.  Cerignola,  with  25,000  inhab., 
uninteresting.  Route  to  (TO'/o  M.  )  Canosa,  see  p.  191.  The  sur- 
rounding plain  is  richly  cultivated,  but  entirely  destitute  of  trees, 
which  generally  form  an  important  feature  in  Italian  fields  and 
enhance  the  beauty  of  the  landscape.  Cotton-plantations  begin 
here.  321  /o  M.  Trinitapoli .  The  train  then  crosses  the  Ofanto,  the 
ancient  Aufidus,  the  last  river  of  any  importance  on  the  E.  coast. 
Between  two  ranges  of  hills  to  the  right  lies  the  broad  plain  on 
which  the  battle  of  Cannae  was  fought  (see  below). 

42  '/o  M.  Barletta  (Locanda  di  Ettore  Fieramosca),  a  seaport- 
town  with  2S.200  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated,  contains  a  number 
of  well-built  houses  and  churches.  The  first  tournament  ever  wit- 
nessed in  this  district  was  held  here  in  1259  by  King  Manfred  in 
honour  of  Baldwin  II.,  the  last  Latin  Kmperor  of  Constantinople, 
who  was  then  on  a  visit  at  the  Italian  court.  The  market- 
place is  adorned  with  a  bronze  statue  14  ft.  in  height,  said  to 
represent  the  Kmp.  Heraclius  (according  to  others  Theodosius), 
and  to  have  been  found  in  the  sea.  The  Cathedral  of  <S.  Maria 
Maggiore  contains  the  tomb  of  a  Count  of  Barbi  and  Miihlingen 
(d.  1566),  with  a  German  inscription.  S.  Andrea,  and  S.  Trinita 
possess  several  ancient  pictures.  The  extensive  CasteUo  dates  from 
the  time  of  Charles  V. 

In  the  wars  between  Louis  XII.  and  Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  Barletta 
was  defended  in  1503  by  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova  and  besieged  by  the  Duke 
of  Xemours.  During  the  siege,  among  other  encounters,  a  combat  took 
place  in    the  vicinity    (between  Andria    and   Corato)    between    thirteen    on 


toBrindisi.  IRANI.  18.  Route.      191 

each  side  of  the  most  valiant  knights  of  Italy  and  France,  conducted  re- 
spectively by  Colonna ,  and  Bayard  'sans  peur  et  sans  reproche' ,  which 
terminated  in  favour  of  the  former. 

Canosa  (Albergo  Genghi,  bad),  with  14,900  inliab.,  on  the  slope  of 
a  hill,  commanded  by  a  ruined  castle,  lies  14  M.  inland.  Of  the  an- 
cient Canitsium,  once  a  prosperous  town,  a  gate  (Porta  Varrense ,  on  the 
road  to  Cerignola),  ruins  of  an  extensive  amphitheatre,  and  other  relics 
still  exist.  Numerous  painted  vases,  golden  trinkets,  etc.  have  been  dis- 
covered in  the  neighbourhood.  The  principal  church  of  S.  Sabino,  with 
several  small  domes,  contains  a  pulpit  and  episcopal  throne  in  marble  and 
a  number  of  antique  columns;  its  pavement  is  now  several  feet  below  the 
level  of  the  street.  In  an  adjacent  court  is  the  tomb  of  Bohemund 
(d.  1111),  son  of  Rob.  Guiscard,  one  of  Tasso's  heroes.  Extensive  olive- 
plantations  in  the  neighbourhood,  which,  like  the  whole  district  of  Apulia, 
also  yields  excellent  wine.  About  4  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Canosa,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ofanto ,  towards  the  coast,  once  lay  Cannae,  where  the  Ro- 
mans were  signally  defeated  by  Hannibal,  B.  C.  216.  In  1019  an  Apulian 
and  Lombard  army  under  the  Norman  Drangot  were  defeated  here  by  the 
troops  of  the  Greek  prefect  Bolanus.  In  1083  Oannje  was  taken  and  de- 
stroyed by  Robert  Guiscard. 

From  Canosa  a  road  leads  to  (14  M.)  the  well-built  town  of  Andria 
(Locanda  di  Milone,  near  the  road  to  Trani,  tolerable),  with  34,000  inhab., 
founded  about  1046,  once  a  favourite  residence  of  the  Emp.  Frederick  II., 
whose  second  wife  Jolantha  died  here  in  1228,  after  having  given  birth  to 
a  son  (Conrad),  and  was  interred  in  the  interesting  old  cathedral.  His  third 
wife,  Isabella  of  England,  who  died  at  Foggia  in  1241,  was  also  interred  in 
the  cathedral  of  Andria,  but  the  monuments  of  these  emx^resses  have  long 
since  disappeared,  having  been  destroyed  by  the  partizans  of  Anjou.  On 
the  Porta  S.  Andrea,  or  delV  Imperatore,  is  a  metrical  inscription  in  letters 
of  metal ,  attributed  to  Frederick:  Andria  fidelis  noslris  affixa  medalliit, 
etc.  The  old  church  of  S.  Agostino  is  also  worthy  of  inspection.  — 
Andria  is  7iJ2  M.  from  Barletta  (diligence  twice  daily  in  1!|4  hr.,  fare  l/z  fr.), 
and    the   same    distance  from  Trani. 

To  the  S.  of  Andria,  on  the  summit  of  the  Murgie  di  Mhiervino,  are 
the  ruins  of  the  conspicuous  and  imposing  "Castello  del  Monte  erected  by 
Robert  Guiscard,  and  embellished  by  Frederick  II.  who  frequently  resided 
here.  This  height  commands  a  beautiful  *view  of  the  sea,  the  valley  of 
the  Ofanto,  Monte  Vulture,  etc.  A  bridle-path  (9iJ2  M.)  ascends  to  it  from 
Andria.  —  From  Castello  del  Monte  a  road  leads  to  O1^  M.)  the  town  of 
Corato  (26,200  inhab.),  which  is  also  reached  by  another  road  from  Andria 
(9  31.).  On  the  road  from  Andria  to  C'orate,  about  two-thirds  of  the  way 
to  the  latter,  a  modern  monument  called  VEpitafio,  in  a  field  by  the  road- 
side, marks  the  spot  where  the  tournament  of  Barletta  took  place  (see  above). 
From  Corato  to  Ruvo,  3  M.,  see  p.  192. 

The  line  now  skirts  the  coast.  The  journey  from  Barletta  to 
Bari  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  this  part  of  Italy.  The 
country  is  luxuriantly  fertile,  and  is  chiefly  famous  for  large  olive- 
plantations  yielding  the  finest  quality  of  salad  oil.  The  district 
where  this  is  produced  extends  only  from  Barletta  and  Canosa,  past 
Bari,  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Mola  (p.  193).  The  culture  of  the 
olive  is  very  profitable,  but  the  yield  is  extremely  fluctuating.  A 
first-rate  crop,  though  very  rare,  sometimes  realises  a  price  equal 
to  the  value  of  the  whole  estate. 

50i/2  M.  Trani  [Locanda  del  Eisorgimento  ;  Italia,  less  pretend- 
ing, but  cleaner),  with  24,400  inhab.  is  a  well-built  seaport.  Pleas- 
ant walk  in  the  public  gardens  (Villa)  on  the  coast.  The  loftily 
situated  Cathedral,  built  about  1100,  still  possesses  a  Romanesque 
portal  and  interesting  bronze  doors  of  1175.    Interior  barbarously 


192      Route  IS.  BARI.  From  Ancona 

modernised.  Several  synagogues  afford  an  indication  of  the  former 
prosperity  of  the  place  and  of  its  importance  at  the  time  of  the 
Crusades.  The  'Villa'  contains  two  well-preserved  milestones  from 
the  Via  Trajana,  which  led  from  Benevento  to  Brindisi  by  Oanosa, 
Kuvo,  Bari,  and  Egnatia.  Excellent  wine  (Moscado  di  Trani)  is 
produced  in  the  neighbourhood. 

of)1 /j  M.    Bisceglie,  pop.  21,400,  with  handsome  villas. 

Gl  M.  Molfetta  (26,800  inhab.),  beautifully  situated,  an  epis- 
copal see,  was  once  in  commercial  alliance  with  Amain.  After  the 
death  of  Johanna  I.  her  husband  Otho,  Duke  of  Brunswick,  was 
confined  in  the  castle  here  until  released  by  Charles  of  Durazzo 
in  1384. 

From  Molfetta  to  Revo,  11  M.,  via  Terlizzi  (omnibus).  Ruvo  (Giov. 
Nitnni,  tolerable),  with  15,U00  inhab.,  the  ancient  Rubi ,  is  famous  for  the 
numerous  and  beautiful  vases  found  in  the  Apulian  tombs  in  its  environs, 
and  now  among  the  chief  treasures  in  the  Museum  of  Naples.  The  tombs 
have  since  been  covered  up  again.  Collection  of.  Giov.  Gatta  worthy  of 
a  visit. 

65  M.  (iiorintizzo.  69!/l>  -M.  8.  Spirito  and  Bitonto.  The  latter, 
situated  4  M.  to  the  \V.,  a  town  with  25,900  inhab.,  manufactures 
salad-oil  in  large  quantities.  The  interesting  cathedral  contains 
several  tombs  of  the  17th  cent. 

77  M.  Bari  (*Albergo  del  Bisorgimento,  moderate;  Progresso, 
with  trattoria ;  Cafe  Stoppani ,  in  the  Corso  Yitt.  Emanuele ; 
Ca/Usch's  Brewery,  Str.  Piccinini ;  cab  into  the  town,  or  per  drive, 
50  o.,  after  dusk  75  c),  the  ancient  Barium,  which  is  still,  as 
in  the  time  of  Horace,  well  supplied  with  fish  ('Bari  piscosi 
nxjenia'j,  a  seaport,  and  the  capital  of  a  province,  with  50,500 
inhab.,  is  the  most  important  commercial  town  in  Apulia.  It 
consists  of  a  closely  built  old  town,  a  handsome  Corso,  and  a  new 
town  ( Borgo)  with  broad  and  handsome  streets.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  ancient  bishoprics  in  Italy,  and  is  frequently  mentioned  in 
mediaval  history  as  the  scene  of  contests  between  Saracens,  Greeks, 
and  Normans,  etc.  In  1002  it  was  wrested  from  the  Saracens  by 
the  Venetians.  The  town  formed  an  independent  duchy  from  the 
14th  cent,  down  to  1558,  when  it  was  united  with  the  kingdom  of 
Naples.    It  is  now  an  archiepiscopal  see. 

*.S'.  .Media,  in  the  old  town,  was  erected  by  Robert  Guiscard  in 
1087,  for  the  reception  of  the  relics  of  the  saint,  which  were 
brought  from  Myra  in  Lycia,  and  still  retains  many  of  its  ancient 
characteristics.      The  facade  is  worthy  of  notice. 

The  Interior  consists  of  nave  and  aisles  with  flat  ceiling,  borne  by 
double  rows  of  cohimns.  with  galleries  over  the  aisles.  In  the  N.  aisle 
is  the  Tombstone  of  Hubert,  (.'omit  of  Bari,  'prolonotarius1  of  Charles  of 
Anjou,  who  conducted  the  proceedings  against  the  ill-fated  Prince  Con- 
radin,  and  was  afterwards  assassinated  by  a  nephew  of  Charles  of  Anjou 
on  the  very  spot  on  which  he  had  proclaimed  the  sentence  (p.  44).  He 
was  a  member  of  the  Cliiurlia  family,  resident  at  Bari.  —  To  the  right 
of  llo'  high  altar  is  a  Madonna  with  saints,  by  li'irtolommeo  Vivttriiu  of 
Murano,  146o.  -  At  the  back  of  the  choir  is  the  Tomb  (erected  in  1093) 
oj  limn,  fi/ur^n,  queen  of  Sigismund  I.  of  Poland,  the  last  Duke  of  Bari 
(d.   1558),  with  statues  or  St.  ilasimir  and  Stanislaus. 


to  Brindisi.  BRINDISI.  11.  Route.      193 

The  Cktpt  contains  a  silver  altar  with  reliefs,  supposed  to  date  from 
1319,  "below  which  is  the  vault  containing  the  hones  of  the  saint.  From 
these  a  miraculous  fluid  ('Manna  di  Bari'),  especially  prized  hy  Russian 
believers,  is  said  to  exsude.  The  festival  of  the  saint,  on  8th  May,  is 
attended  by  thousands  of  pilgrims,  chiefly  from  the  Albanese  villages. 

Outside  the  church  are  a  number  of  epitaphs  to  Byzantine  pilgrims 
who  died  here. 

The  cathedral  of  S.  Sabino,  originally  a  flne  Gothic  building, 
was  sadly  modernised  in  1745.  Over  the  altar  of  S.  Uocco  is  a 
picture  by  Tintoretto,  and  opposite  to  it  one  by  Paolo  Veronese. 
The    lofty    campanile    resembles    the  Moorish    tower    of  Seville. 

The  Lion  in  the  Piazza,  with  the  inscription  'custos  justitiEe' 
on  its  collar,  is  the  heraldic  cognisance  of  Bari. 

In  the  Istituto  Tecnico ,  Strada  Abate  ,  is  the  new  Provincial 
Museum  ,  containing  amongst  other  antiquities  a  number  of  vases 
and  terracottas  found  at  Monopoli  (see  below). 

The  theatre  is  named  Piccinni,  after  a  composer  who  was  born 
at  Bari  in  1728,  a  rival  of  Gluck.  A  new  Ateneo  has  been  erected 
near  the  railway  station.  The  new  harbour  in  the  old  town  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  Mte.  Gargano  in  clear  weather. 

Railway  from  Bari  to  Taranto,  see  R.  21.  The  Oenoa  and  Ancona 
Steamers  touch  at  Bari  on  Sundays  (on  their  way  to  Brindisi,  Gallipoli, 
and  Taranto)  and  Tuesdays  (on  their  way  to  Viesti  and  Anconal. 

84  M.  Noicattaro.  89  M.  Mola  di  Bari  (12,000  inhab.),  on  the 
coast.  99  M.  Polignano  a  Mare  is  situated  on  a  lofty  and  precipitous 
rock ,  rising  above  the  sea  and  containing  several  fine  grottoes. 
The  finest  of  these,  opening  towards  the  sea,  lies  under  the  new 
town  (entrance  by  a  small  door  in  the  old  town ;  key  at  the 
house  opposite).  102  M.  Monopoli,  the  ancient  Minopolis,  with 
20, 000  inhab.,  the  residence  of  an  archbishop.  The  cathedral  contains 
a  St.  Sebastian  by  Palma  Vecchio.  The  tower  of  S.  Francesco 
commands  a  fine  view.  In  the  direction  of  the  sea  there  have  re- 
cently been  discovered  several  rock-hewn  tombs,  the  contents  of 
which  are  preserved  in  the  new  museum  at  Bari  (see  above). 

110'/2  M.  Fasano,  a  thriving  town  with  14,800  inhab.  On 
the  coast  between  Monopoli  and  Fasano  lies  the  ruined  town 
('la  citta  distrutta')  of  Egnatia,  the  Greek  GnathCa,  now  Anazzo, 
where  a  number  of  vases,  etc.  have  been  found.  A  considerable 
part  of  the  ancient  walls  is  still  preserved.  The  train  now  enters 
the  province  of  Lecce  or  Otranto  (Terra  d'Otranto,  the  ancient 
Calabria,  see  p.  198).  123  M.  Ostuni;  129  M.  Carovigno ; 
139  M.   S.  Vito  d'Otranto. 

146  M.  Brindisi.  —  "Gean  Albf.rgo  delle  Indie  Okientali,  built  by 
the  S.  Italian  railway  company,  on  the  quay,  near  the  landing-place  of 
the  P.  and  O.  steamers,  will  fitted  up,  R.  3,  A.  1,  L.  3|4,  dejeuner  3  fr.— 
Albeego  d'Edropa,  in  the  town,  adjoining  the  Piazza  del  Mercato,  kept 
by  Michele  Grapsa,  a  Greek,  good  and  tolerably  clean,  R.  and  L.  2'|2  fr., 
A.  40  c;  Angleteere,  very  dirty,  and  Vittoria,  both  in  the  town,  and  in 
the  Italian  style.  —  Gaffi  Triestino.  —  Cab  from  the  station  to  the  town 
'la  fr.,  after  dusk  1  fr. 

Brindisi,  with  13.800  inhab.,  the  ancient  Brtntesinn,  or  Brundi- 
Baeurkp.r.     Italy  III.     Oth  Edition.  ['Pt 


194      Route  Id.  BRINPISI.  From  Ancona 

slum  (i.  e.  stag's  head),  a  name  due  to  the  form  of  the  harbour 
which  encloses  the  town  in  two  arms,  was  once  a  populous  seaport, 
and  the  usual  point  of  embarcation  for  Greece  and  the  East. 

Brundisium  was  a  very  famous  place  in  ancient  history.  At  an  early 
period  it  was  colonised  by  Tarentum,  and  subsequently  by  Rome,  B.C.  245, 
and  it  formed  the  termination  of  the  Via  Appia,  the  construction  of  which 
from  Capua  was  nearly  coeval  with  the  foundation  of  the  colony.  Horace's 
description  (Sat.  i.  5)  of  his  journey  from  Rome  to  Brundisium,  B.C.  37, 
in  the  company  of  Maecenas,  who  wished  to  be  present  at  the  con- 
clusion of  a  new  alliance  between  Octavianus  and  Antony  at  Tarentum, 
is  well  known.  At  Brundisium  the  tragic  poet  Pacuvius  was  born,  and 
here,  in  B.C.  19,  Virgil  died  on  his  return  from  Greece  (some  ruins  near  the 
harbour  being  still  pointed  out  to  the  credulous  as  the  remains  of  the  house 
where  he  expired).  The  town ,  when  occupied  by  Pompey,  B.  C.  49,  sus- 
tained a  memorable  siege  at  the  hands  of  Csesar,  who  describes  the  event 
in  the  first  book  of  his  Civil  War.  The  fleets  of  the  Crusaders  frequently 
assembled  in  the  harbour  of  Brundisium ,  but  the  place  soon  declined 
after  the  cessation  of  the  crusades.  It  was  subsequently  destroyed  by 
Lewis,  King  of  Hungary,  in  1348,  and  again  by  a  fearful  earthquake  in 
1458,  which  buried  most  of  the  inhabitants  beneath  its  ruins. 

In  modern  times  Brindisi  has  again  become  the  starting-point 
of  the  most  direct  route  from  Central  Europe  to  the  East,  and  bids 
fair  to  become  an  important  station  for  the  carrying  trade.  The  ex- 
tensive harbour,  admirably  sheltered  from  every  wind,  is  undergoing 
improvement.  The  large  steamers  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
Co.  are  enabled  to  enter  and  lay  to  at  the  quay  itself.  They 
reach  Alexandria  hence  in  about  82  hrs.  The  N.  arm  of  the 
harbour,  which  once  bounded  the  town  and  extended  far  into 
the  land,  was  productive  of  malaria,  owing  to  its  muddy  con- 
dition, and  is  now  dried  up.  The  entrance  to  the  harbour  is 
divided  into  two  channels  by  an  island.  In  order  to  prevent 
the  harbour  from  becoming  filled  with  sand,  the  N.  arm  has 
recently  been  closed  by  means  of  a  substantia]  bulwark  of  solid 
stone.  The  quarantine  establishment  and  a  small  fort  are  situated 
on  the  island.  The  fort  may  be  visited  by  boat  (in  '/2  hr0)  an^  a 
fine  view  enjoyed  from  the  top,  and  the  trip  may  be  extended  to 
the  breakwater  (in  all  lYa-2  hrs.,   fare  iy2  fr.). 

On  a  slight  eminence  by  the  quay  rises  a  lofty  unfluted 
column  of  Greek  marble,  with  a  highly  ornate  capital,  repre- 
senting figures  of  gods.  Near  it  are  the  remains  of  a  second. 
The  former  bears  an  unfinished  inscription,  containing  mention 
of  a  Byzantine  governor  named  Spathalupus,  by  whom  the  town 
was  rebuilt  in  the  10th  cent.,  after  its  destruction  by  the  Sara- 
cens. These  columns  are  supposed  once  to  have  marked  the 
termination  of  the  Via  Appia ;  but  it  is  more  probable  that  they 
belonged  to  an  honorary  monument  of  the  Byzantine  period, 
like  the  column  of  Phocas  at  Rome.  The  other  relics  of  anti- 
quity are  insignificant.  —  The  Castello  with  its  massive  round 
towers,  founded  by  the  Emp.  Frederick  II.,  and  strengthened 
by  Charles  V.,  is  now  a  prison.  The  remarkably  picturesque 
remains  of  the  circular  church  of  S.  Giovanni,  destroyed  by 
an   earthquake  in  the  11th  cent.,   with  colonnades,   and  decorated 


to  Otranto.  OTRANTO.  18.  Route.      195 

with  frescoes,  are  still  preserved,  and  will  probably  be  con- 
verted into  a  museum.  In  the  Cathedral  the  nuptials  of  Frede- 
rick II.  with  Jolantha  weie  solemnised  in  1*225.  Brindisi  pos- 
sesses a  public  library,  presented  by  a  Bishop  de  Leo,  a  native 
of  the  place.     The  environs  are  fertile,   but  malarious. 

The  steamboats  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd  Co.  touch  at  Brindisi  on  their 
route  to  Corfu  and  Syra  (comp.  E.  45);  so  also  the  Genoa  and  Ancona 
steamers  once  weekly  (Mondays)  on  their  way  to  Gallipoli  and  Taranto 
(see  p.  207). 

From  Brindisi  to  "Taeanto  (p.  204),  24  M.,  a  good  road  (one-horse 
carr.  18-20  fr.),  via  Orut,  the  ancient  Uria,  from  which  the  Doria  family 
derives  its  origin,  a  beautifully  situated  place  with  numerous  palaces. 

From  Brindisi  the  train  runs  in  1  hr.  20  min.  ,  by  stations 
Tuturano,  S.    Pietro,   Squinzano,   and   Trepuzzi,   to  ■ — 

170  M.  Lecce  (Mberyo  della  Ferrovia;  Roma,  in  better  repute"), 
the  capital  of  a  province,  with  23,250  inhab.,  situated  a  short 
distance  from  the  sea,  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  with  the  cathedral  of 
St.  Orontius,  an  ancient  castle,  and  other  handsome  buildings.  A 
museum  of  antiquities  (vases,  coins,  terracottas,  Messapian  and 
Latin  inscriptions)  is  about  to  be  opened  at  the  Lyceum.  The 
town,  which  is  a  dull  place  in  an  unattractive  district,  occupies 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Lupia.  In  the  vicinity  lay  Rudiae,  where 
Ennius,  the  father  of  Roman  poetry,  was  born,  B.  C.  239,  now 
Rugge,  a  place  of  no  importance.  The  poet ,  who  died  in  168, 
was  patronised  by  the  Scipios,  in  whose  burial-place  at  Rome  his 
remains  were  deposited.  —  On  the  coast  lies  the  Castello  di  S. 
Cataido,  4y2  M.   distant,    a  favourite  point  for  excursions. 

From  Lecce  a  road  (22  M. ;  diligence  daily  in  3  hrs.,  fare  3  fr.)  leads 
by  the  manufacturing  town  of  Nardb ,  the  ancient.  Neretum  of  the  Sallcn- 
tini,  ninv  an  episcopal  residence,  or  by  Galatina,  to  — 

Gallipoli,  a  seaport,  with  10,000  inhah.,  beautifully  situated  on  a  rocky- 
island  in  the  Gulf  of  Taranto,  but  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a 
bridge.  It  was  founded  by  the  Lacedemonian  Leucippus  and  the  Tarcn- 
tines,  and  is  the  Urbs  Grata  Callipolis  of  the  geographer  Mela,  but  is  called 
Anxabj  Pliny.  The  cathedral  is  a  handsome  building  of  the  17lh  century. 
The  town  is  celebrated  for  its  oil.  It  possesses  very  numerous  subter- 
ranean cisterns,  in  which  the  oil  is  stored  for  lung  periods,  and  whence 
it  is  drawn  off  for  exportation  in  a  thoroughly  clarified  condition.  This 
is  not,  however,  the  finest  salad  nil  (comp.  p.  191).  Date-palms  are  fre- 
quently seen  in  the  gardens  of  the  handsome  villas  in  the  vicinity.  The 
steamers  between  Ancona  and  Messina  touch  here  weekly  (Wed.  forenoo 
to  Taranto;  Sund.  forenoon  to  Brindisi). 

The  train  runs  from  Lecce  to  (291/2  M.)  Otranto  in  1  hr. 
50  min. ;  stations  S.  Cesario  di  Lecce,  S.  Donato,  Galugnano. 
Sternatia,  Zollino,  Corujliano ;  194'/2  M-  Maylie;  Baynolo,  Can- 
nole,   and   Qiurdiynano. 

199'/2  M.  Otranto,  the  Greek  Hydrus,  the  Roman  Hydrun- 
tum,  a  colony  and  municipium,  often  mentioned  by  the  an- 
cients as  a  point  of  embarcation  for  Apollonia  in  Epirus ,  is 
now  an  insignificant  fishing  town  with  2000  inhab.,  and  the 
seat  of  an  archbishop.  The  castle  with  its  two  towers  was 
erected  by  Alphonso  of  Arragon  and  strengthened  by  Charles  V. 

13* 


196      Route  IS.  CAPE  OF  LEUCA. 

For  a  long  period  it  continued  subject  to  the  Greek  emperors,  but  in 
the  11th  cent,  was  captured  by  the  Normans,  who  under  Robert  Guiscard 
and  Tiohemund  conducted  from  this  point  the  siege  of  Durazzo  (Pyrrachium) 
in  Albania.  On  28th  July,  1480,  the  then  prosperous  town  was  attacked 
by  the  Turkish  fleet  under  Achmet  Pasha,  grand-vizier  of  Mohammed  II., 
and  entirely  destroyed ;  12,000  of  the  inhabitants  were  put  to  death,  the 
remainder  carried  off  as  slaves,  the  churches  razed  to  the  ground,  and  the 
priests  barbarously  maltreated.  The  following  year  the  Turks  were 
expelled  by  the  Duke  of  Calabria,  afterwards  Alphonso  II.,  but  the  town 
never  recovered  from  the  effects  of  this  cruel  blow. 

The  Cathedral  still  contains  some  columns  from  a  temple 
of  Mercury,  which  once  stood  near  the  village  of  S.  Nicola,  not 
far  from  the  town.  The  ancient  mosaics  in  the  church  were 
much  injured  by  the  hoofs  of  the  Turkish  horses  which  were 
stabled  in  the  sacred  edifice.  In  a  chapel  are  preserved  the 
bones  of  many  of  the  ill-fated  victims  of  the  Turkish  onslaught. 

From  the  ramparts  of  the  Castle  the  coast  and  mountains  of 
Epirus  are  visible  in  clear  weather. 

A  road  skirting  the  coast  leads  from  Otranto  to  (31  M.)  the  Pro- 
montory of  Leuca ,  by  Muro  (to  the  r.),  and  Castro,  situated  on  a  rocky 
eminence  by  the  sea,  and  therefore  supposed  to  be  the  Castrum  Minervae, 
that  point  of  Italy  which,  according  to  Virgil,  was  first  beheld  by  jEneas; 
then  through  a  succession  of  gardens  and  vineyards  to  Tricase,  lx|2  M. 
from  the  sea,  Alessano,  Montesardo,  Patii,  and  finally  S.  Maria  di  Leuca, 
a  village  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Leuca,  not  far  from  the  promontory 
of  Leuca  or  Finislerra.  This  is  the  Promontorium  Iapygivin,  or  Salentinvm, 
of  antiquity,  the  extreme  point  of  Apulia,  commanding  a  noble  prospect. 
In  line  weather  the  lofty  Acroceraunian  mountains  of  Albania  may  be 
distinguished.  We  may  return  for  a  change  by  Patii,  Presicce,  Uggento, 
the  ancient  Uxentum,  an  episcopal  residence ,  and  Taviano,  to  GallipoH 
(31  31.). 

19.  From  [Naples]  Eboli  to  the  Coast  of  the  Adriatic 
by  Fotenza,  Melfi,  and  Venosa. 

119M.  —  (Railway  from  Naples  to  Eboli,  50M.,  in  3  hrs. ;  fares  7  fr.,  5  fr. 
25  c,  2  fr.  65  c.)  —  From  Eboli  to  Romagnano,  25  M.,  by  railway  in  l3/4  hr. ; 
fares  4  fr.  55 ,  3  fr.  20,  1  fr.  85  c.  (Diligences  have  also  continued  to  run 
hitherto  on  this  part  of  the  journey;  but  consult  the  Indicalore.  Ufflciale, 
Appx.  to  Ferrovie  Meridionali.  Information  may  also  be  obtained  at  the 
office    at  Naples,  see  p.  28,  or  at  Salerno  next  door  to  the  prefettura.) 

Fkom  Eboli  to  Potenza  a  corriera  runs  twice  daily  in  17-18  hrs. 
(fare  15  fr.),  corresponding  with  the  morning  and  evening  trains.  —  Local 
diligences  beyond  Potenza,  see  below.  —  This  route  traverses  the  old 
province  of  the  Basilicata,  the  ancient  Lucania.     Comp.  also  p.  170. 

Eboli,  see  p.  159.  —  The  railway  runs  hence  towards  the  E. 
at  the  foot  of  the  hills.  4  M.  Pontesele,  near  which  the  train  crosses 
the  broad  and  turbulent  Sele.  11  M.  Contursi;  \bx\<L  M.  Sicignano; 
20  M.  Bucclno,  a  town  with  6000  inhab.  ,  on  the  hill.  25  M.  Ro- 
magnano,  an  unimportant  village,  about  3  M.  to  the  N.  of  Vietri, 
which  the  Auletta  and  Potenza  road  passes  (see  below).  The  rail- 
way is  to  be  extended  to  Potenza ,  and  will  join  the  Calabrian  coast 
line  at  Torremare  (see  p.  207). 

The  High  Road  to  Potkx/.a,  5(i  M.,  also  crosses  the  Sele,  and 
ascends  through  a  district  which  is  very  bleak  at  places  (  magnificent 


POTENZA.  19.  Route.  197 

retrospects),  past  Postiylione,  to  La  Duchessa  and  Lo  Scorzo.  Op- 
posite to  us  rises  the  Alburnus ,  which  Virgil  describes  as  'green 
with  holm-oaks'. 

Auletta,  23  M.  from  Eboli ,  a  poor  village  with  3000  inhab., 
lies  to  the  left  on  a  hill  clothed  with  olives  and  forest,  on  the 
Negro,  the  ancient  Tanager,  which  the  road  crosses.  (Posta,  on 
the  road-side,  tolerable.  Diligence  to  Potenza  every  evening  in 
9  hrs.,   fare  9  fr.) 

The  effects  of  the  appalling  earthquake  of  1857  (see  below)  begin  to  be 
observed  here  in  the  dilapidated  church  and  fallen  houses.  This  catastrophe 
annihilated  a  number  of  towns  and  villages  in  the  Basilicata,  and  occa- 
sioned a  loss  of  upwards  of  32,000  lives.  In  the  district  of  Sala  and  the 
valley  of  the  Diano  alone  13,230  persons  perished,  and  27,150  more  died 
from  exposure,  starvation,  and  cold.  Even  in  March  1858,  120,000  indivi- 
duals were  still  without  shelter. 

The  Potenza  road  diverges  to  the  left  near  Auletta ,  crosses 
the  Landro,  a  tributary  of  the  Sele,  and  traverses  a  very  charm- 
ing district  as  far  as  Vietri  di  Potenza  (supposed  to  be  the 
Campi  Veteres,  where  in  B.C.  212  the  proconsul  Tiberius 
Sempronius  Gracchus  fell  a  victim  to  his  premature  confidence 
in  the  Lucanian  Flavus) ;  it  then  crosses  the  river  Marno.  To 
the  left  is  the  beautifully  situated  Picerno,  which  was  almost  entire- 
ly destroyed  by  the  earthquake.  The  road  now  ascends  gradually 
to  the  crest  of  Monte  Foi,  and  descends  thence  to   — 

Potenza  (Risorgimento ;  Croce  di  Savoia,  cleaner  than  the 
other;  *Trattoria  Lombarda),  with  18,500  inhab.,  the  capital  of 
the  province  of  the  same  name,  which  forms  part  of  the  old  Basili- 
cata,  a  district  nearly  corresponding  with  the  ancient  Lucania.  The 
town  lies  on  an  eminence  above  the  Basento,  which  rises  on  the 
mountain  Ariosa  not  far  from  this,  and  falls  into  the  Gulf  of  Taranto 
near  the  ruins  of  Metapontum.  The  ancient  Potentia,  destroyed 
by  Frederick  II.  and  again  by  Charles  of  Anjou,  lay  lower  down  in 
the  plain,  at  the  spot  now  called  La  Murata,  where  coins  and  in- 
scriptions have  frequently  been  found. 

The  Earthquake  of  1857  was  attended  here  with  the  most  terrible 
consequences.  The  greater  part  of  the  town,  including  the  Lyceum,  fell, 
and  numerous  lives  were  lost.  In  consequence  of  wounds  alone  4000 
persons  underwent  amputations.  The  result  in  thirty  or  forty  neighbouring 
villages  was  not  less  disastrous.  This  stupendous  convulsion  took  place 
in  a  circular  course  in  three  distinct  shocks ,  of  which  the  second  was 
the  most  violent.  A  line  drawn  from  Monte  Vulture  to  the  volcano 
of  Stromboli  intersects  the  places  which  suffered  most;  thus  Auletta, 
Atena,  Polla,  Hala,  Padula,  Sapo/tara,  Sapi'i  and  many  other  villages 
were  entirely  destroyed.  In  the  direction  of  Mt.  Vesuvius,  towards  Na- 
ples and  Salerno  to  the  W. ,  the  concussions  were  much  moi  e  violent 
than  in  the  opposite  direction.  The  loss  of  life  was  not  less  serious  than 
that  occasioned  by  the  earthquake  of  1783  in  Calabria.  The  shocks  re- 
curred in  March  and  April  1858. 

From  Potenza  to  Acerenza,  an  interesting  excursion :  diligence  to 
Pietra  Galla  (in  3  hrs.,  fare  2  fr.),  and  a  walk  of  1  br.  thence.  Acerenza 
( ' Locanda  in  the  old  castle),  the  Acheroiitia  of  Horace  (tump.  p.  198), 
famed  for  its  wine,  occupies  a  lofty  and  beautiful  situation.  The  crypt 
of  the  cathedral  contains  four  ancient  columns  of  coloured  marble  and 
pedestals  with  media; val  reliefs. 


198      Route  19.  MELFI. 

From  Potenza  to  Trani  (p.  191),  on  the  Adriatic  coast-railway,  a 
diligence  runs  in  14  hrs.,  fare  17  fr. 

From  Potenza  a  hilly  road  (about  37  M. ;  diligence  in  9-10 
hrs.,   fare  6  fr.)  leads  by  Arigliano  and  Atella  to  — 

Melfi  ( Albergo  Basil,  by  the  Vescovado  ;  Trattoria  del  Sole,  with 
a  few  bedrooms),  with  11,600  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
slope  of  Monte  Vulture.  It  possesses  an  old  castle  of  the  Norman 
sovereigns,  who  often  resided  here,  now  restored  by  Prince  Doria 
as  a  chateau.  The  upper  portion  of  the  town  was  totally  destroyed 
by  the  earthquake ;  a  great  part  of  the  remainder  has  been  re- 
erected.  Here,  in  1059,  Pope  Nicholas  II.  invested  Robert  Guiscard 
with  the  duchies  of  Apulia  and  Calabria.  The  magnificent  Ca- 
thedral of  1155,  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in 
Itfol ,  has  since  been  modernised.  The  town-hall  contains  a 
fine  Roman  sarcophagus. 

From  this  point  the  conspicuous  Monte  Vulture,  an  extinct  volcano, 
may  be  visited.  Horace  mentions  it  as  the  'Apulian  Vultur1  -,  at  that 
period  it  formed  the  boundary  between  Lucnnia  and  Apulia.  Calabria 
extended  hence  in  a  S.E.  direction  to  the  Iapygian  or  Salentinian  pro- 
montory, the  modern  Capo  di  Leuca  (p.  196);  and  S.W.  to  the  land  of 
the  Bruttii,  as  far  as  the  Sicilian  straits.  Since  the  middle  ages,  however, 
the  latter  district  has  been  named  Calabria,  while  the  ancient  Calabria  is 
now  the  Terra  d'Otranto. 

The  former  crater  of  II.  Vulture  is  densely  overgrown  with  oaks  and 
beeches,  among  which  two  small  and  deep  lakes  are  situated.  By  one  of 
these  are  the  Capuchin  monastery  of  <S'.  Micltele ,  most  picturesquely 
situated,  and  the  ruined  church  of  S.  Ilario.  On  the  farther  side  of  the 
principal  crater  rises  the  summit  of  the  mountain ,  II  Pizzuto  di  Melfi 
(4359  ft.).  Melfi  lies  on  a  bed  (if  lava  on  the  X.  E.  slope.  The  circum- 
ference of  the  whole  mountain  is  about  37  M. 

From  Melfi  a  diligence  runs  to  Candela  (p.  176),  situated 
22  M.  to  the  N.;   railway  thence  to  Foggia  in   l'/^  hr. 

A  road  leads  from  Melfi  to  the  E.  to  (15i|2  M. ;  or  by  a  bridle-path,  a 
pleasant,  sequestered  route,  7l/2  31.  only)  Venosa  (two  miserable  inns), 
the  ancient  Veimsia,  colonised  by  Rome  after  the  Samnite  war,  now  a 
small  town  with  72(0  inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  slope  of  Monte 
Vulture,  not  far  from  the  Fiirmara,  the  'pauper  aquse  Daunus'  of  Horace 
(Carm.  iii,  30,  11),  and  near  the  more  considerable  Of  (into ,  Lat.  Aufidns. 
The  Castle  was  erected  by  Pirro  del  lialzo  in  the  15th  cent.  The  abbey 
and  church  of  S.  Trinita,  consecrated  by  Pope  Nicholas  II.  in  1058,  contain 
the  tombs  of  the  founder  Robert  Guiscard  and  his  first  wife  Aberarda, 
mother  of  Bohemund.  Frescoes  of  the  13th  and  14th  cent,  have  recently  been 
discovered  in  the  church.  The  three  principal  chapels  are  still  distinctly 
recognised.  The  nave  is  76  paces  in  breadth.  The  handsome  court  con- 
tains numerous  inscriptions,  columns,  and  other  relics  of  an  amphitheatre, 
which  lay  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  church  has  recently  undergone 
restoration  in  questionable  taste. 

Near  Venosa,  on  the  road  to  the  Fiuniara,  Jewish  Catacombs  con- 
taining inscriptions  in  Hebrew,  Latin,  and  Greek,  were  discovered  in  1853. 
History  also  records  that  .lews  were  numerous  here  in  the  4th  and  5th 
centuries. 

An  ancient  structure  of  'opus  reticulatum'  here  is  called  the  C'asa  di 
Orazio,  but  without  the  slightest  authority.  Horace,  the  son  of  a  freedman, 
was  born  atVenusia,  on  Wth  Dec.  B.C.  65,  and  there  received  his  elementary 
education,  after  which  his  father  took  him  to  Rome  in  order  to  procure 
him  bitter  instruction.  He  frequently  mentions  the  'far  resounding  Aulidus' 
in  his  poems,  as  well  as  the  villages  in  the  vicinity  (Carm.  iii.  4,  I'll,   such  as 


POLLA.  •>().  Route.      199 

the  lofty  Acherontia,  now  Acerenza  (p.  197),  9  SI.  to  the  S.E.,  the  woods  of 
Bantia,  N.  of  the  latter,  now  Abbadia  de1  Banzi,  near  Genzano,  and  the 
fertile  meadows  of  the  low-lying  Ferentum  (probably  Forenza).  Near  Palazzo, 
6  M.  to  the  E.  of  Venosa,  to  the  right  of  the  road  to  Spinazzola,  rises  an 
abundant  spring,  now  called  Fontana  Grande,  believed  to  be  identical  with 
the  Forts  Bandusiae  so  highly  praised  by  Horace  (Carm.  iii.  13). 

On  the  wooded  heights  between  Venusia  and  Bantia,  in  B.C.  208, 
M.  Claud.  Marcellus,  the  gallant  conqueror  of  Syracuse,  and  the  first  gen- 
eral who  succeeded  in  arresting  the  tide  of  Hannibal's  success  (at  Nola, 
215),  fell  into  an  ambuscade  and  perished. 

Lavello,  where  King  Conrad  died  in  1254,  lies  9i|2  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Venosa,  beyond  the  wooded  slopes  of  the  Monte  Vulture.  The  traveller 
may   proceed   thence  by  (19  M.)  Canosa  (p.  191)  to   the   railway. 

20.    From  (Naples)   Eboli  to  Reggio. 

High  Road  from  Eboli  to  Reggio,  about  297  M.,  by  Corriera  in75hrs.; 
fare  63  fr.  75  c.  (offices  at  Naples  and  Salerno ,  see  p.  196).  There  are, 
however ,  three  seats  only ,  which  are  almost  always  engaged  in  ad- 
vance. Diligences  ('Giornaliera,)  also  run  on  the  whole  of  this  route;  but 
passengers  are  always  liable  to  be  turned  out  before  reaching  their 
destination  by  others  desiring  seats  for  a  stage,  unless  they  prefer  to 
pay  for  the  whole  of  the  longer  stage.  This  malpractice  also  prevails  in 
Sicily  (p.  213).  In  the  bathing  season,  when  the  traffic  between  Naples 
and  the  province  is  very  brisk,  travellers  cannot  expect  to  be  taken  up 
at  intermediate  stations,  but  they  may  sometimes  obtain  a  seat  in  a  hired 
carriage  at  a  moderate  charge.  Vetturini  from  Salerno  to  Reggio  require 
10-12  days ;   hotel-expenses  had  better  be  included  in  the  contract. 

Eboli,  see  p.  159;  thence  to  Auletta,  see  p.  197. 

Beyond  Auletta  lies  the  village  of  Fertosa,  which  was  partially 
destroyed  in  1857.  Below  the  village  is  a  large  cavern,  dedicated 
to  St.  Michael,  whence,  after  a  subterranean  course  of  l'/2  ^.,  the 
Negro  precipitates  itself  into  a  gorge.  Beyond  Pertosa  the  road 
crosses  a  deep  ravine,  through  which  an  arm  of  the  Negro  flows, 
by  II  Ponte  di  Campestrino ,  a  viaduct  of  seven  arches,  and  then 
ascends  the  mountain  in  zigzags.  A  little  way  beyond  the  culm- 
inating point  a  charming  view  is  disclosed  of  the  valley  of  the 
Diano,  to  the  S.,  into  which  the  road  now  descends.  On  entering 
it,  we  leave  the  beautifully  situated  Folia,  the  ancient  Forum 
Popilii,  which  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  in  1857,  to  the  right. 
The  valley,  15  M.  in  length,  3  M.  in  width,  is  traversed  by  the 
Negro,  here  named  the  Galore,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  fertility. 
Numerous  villages  are  situated  on  the  heights  on  both  sides.  The 
road  ascends  more  rapidly.  On  the  left  lies  Atena,  the  ancient 
Atina  in  Lucania,  with  remains  of  an  amphitheatre ,  walls ,  and 
towers,  but  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1857. 
Then  to  the  left  Sala  {Albergo  in  the  Piazza,  tolerable),  the  seat 
of  a  sub-prefect,  picturesquely  situated  on  a  height.  On  an  isolated 
eminence,  nearly  opposite,  on  the  other  bank  of  the  river,  which 
is  crossed  by  the  Ponte  di  Silla,  an  ancient  Roman  bridge,  rises 
the  small  town  of  Diano.  the  ancient  Tegianum,  whence  the  valley 
derives  its  name.  To  the  left,  44  M.  from  Eboli,  lies  Padula, 
below  which  are  the  shattered  ruins  of  the  Certosn  di  S.  Lorenzo, 


200      Route  20.  COSENZA.  From  Naples 

From  Sala  and  Padula  beautiful  routes  cross  the  Monte  S.  Elia  to  the 
picturesque  Valley  o/Marsieo ;  but  down  to  1876  they  were  unfortunately  not 
unattended  with  danger,  and  previous  enquiry  should  therefore  be  made 
of  the  prefetto  or  sindaco  as  to  the  state  oS  the  country.  Towards  the  N. 
the  valley  is  commanded  by  the  town  of  Marsico  (14,000  inhab.),  a  noto- 
rious haunt  of  brigands.  After  a  ride  of  4-5  hrs.  across  the  fertile 
plain  the  traveller  reaches  Saponara,  situated  on  a  steep  hill,  at  the  foot 
of  which,  in  the  Agri  valley,  once  lay  the  ancient  Orumentum.  The  ruins 
are  insignificant,  but  a  rich  treasure  of  vases,  inscriptions,  and  gems  has 
been  found  among  them.  The  village  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  by 
the  earthquake  in  1857,  and  the  present  population  (1500)  is  one-half 
only  of  its  former  number.  —  Opposite,  towards  the  S.W.,  is  Viggiano, 
famous  for  its  musicians ,  who  are  to  be  met  with  in  all  parts  of  the 
world ,  particularly  in  New  York ,  with  their  harps  ,  guitars ,  flutes  ,  etc. 
Of  an  evening  the  village  itself  resounds  with  music,  singing,  and  dancing. 
—  Moliterno  on  the  high  road  is  3  M.  from  Saponara  ('giornaliera'  to 
Sala  in  6  hrs.). 

At  Casalnuovo  the  ascent  begins ,  and  the  road  at  length 
crosses  the  rivulet  Trecchina  to  (65 '/^  M.  from  Eboli)  Lagonegro, 
a  small  town  in  a  wild  situation ,  amidst  lofty  mountains.  The 
French  gained  a  victory  over  the  Neapolitans  here  in  1806,  after 
which  they  committed  the  most  savage  excesses.  The  road  now 
winds  through  dark  and  profound  ravines,  passing  to  the  left  of 
the  Layo  di  Serino,  the  ancient  Lacus  Niger,  in  which  the  Sinno, 
the  Siris  of  the  ancients,  takes  its  rise.  The  next  village,  Lauria, 
lies  at  the  base  of  a  lofty  mountain ,  opposite  the  huge  Monte 
Sirino,  and  is  surrounded  by  vineyards.  Then  Castelluccio,  on  an 
eminence  above  a  branch  of  the  Lao,  the  ancient  Laos,  environed 
by  dense  woods. 

109Y2  M.  Rotonda.  We  now  enter  the  province  of  Calabria 
Citra ,  and  traverse  the  long  and  desolate  table-land  of  Campo 
Tenese  where  the  Neapolitans  fled  before  the  French  general 
Kegnier  in  1806.  A  path  winds  downwards  from  this  point,  and 
passes  through  the  narrow  valley  at  the  base  of  Monte  Pollino 
(7326  ft.),  on  the  W.  side  of  which  Morano,  the  ancient 
Muranum,    is  picturesquely  situated. 

125  M.  Castrovillari,  on  a  hill,  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains, 
with  an  ancient  Norman  castle ,  is  next  reached.  —  The  route 
hence  to  (9'/o  M.J  Cassano,  and  thence  to  the  railway,  is  much 
frequented  (see  p.   209). 

Beyond  Castrovillari  the  high  road  traverses  a  well-cultivated 
district,  passing  through  Cammarata,  Spezzano,  Tarsia,  and  Ritorto, 
skirting  the  river  Crati,  and  crossing  several  of  its  tributaries. 
In  the  bed  of  one  of  these,  the  Busento,  Alaric ,  King  of  the 
Goths,   was  interred  in  410. 

186  M.  Cosenza  (*Albergo  clei  due  Lionetti),  the  ancient 
Consentia,  once  the  principal  city  of  the  Bruttii,  is  now  the  capital 
of  the  province  of  Calabria  Citra,  with  16,000  inhab.,  and  an  archi- 
episcopal  residence,  containing  well-built  houses  and  palaces  of 
wealthy  landed-proprietors  and  manufacturers.  It  lies  on  the  N. 
slope  of  a  hill  which  separates  the  Crati  from  the  Busento  above 


to  Regyio.  ROGLIANO.  20.  Route.     "201 

the  confluence  of  these  streams.  The  town  is  commanded  by  a 
castle,  the  walls  of  which,  though  9  ft.  in  thickness,  were  unable 
to  resist  the  shock  of  the  last  earthquake.  Shocks  are  felt 
here  almost  every  year.  In  1181  the  town  was  destroyed  by 
an  earthquake,  and  again  on  4th  Feb.  1783,  when  upwards  of 
30,000  persons  perished  in  this  district.  Serious  damage  was  also 
sustained  from  the  earthquakes  of  1854  and  1870. 

The  Cathedral  contains  the  tomb  of  Louis  III.  of  Anjou,  who 
died  here  in  1435,  eighteen  months  after  his  marriage  with 
Margaret  of  Savoy. 

The  site  of  Alaric's  grave  is  unknown,  but  a  tradition  of 
Cosenza  places  it  at  the  union  of  the  Busento  and  the  Crati. 

From  Cosenza  to  Paola  (p.  227),  where  the  steamers  touch  four  times 
weekly,  a  drive  of  31  2  hrs.  (seat  in  a  carriage  on  these  days  5  fr.).  —  Rail- 
may  towards  the  N.  to  Buffaloria   in  course  of  construction  (see  p.  209). 

To  the  E.  of  Cosenza  rises  the  Sila,  a  lofty  and  wooded  range  of 
mountains,  extending  about  37  M.  from  N.  to  S.,  25  31.  from  E.  to  W., 
attaining  a  height  of  6200  ft.,  and  embracing  an  extensive  network 
of  valleys.  These  mountains,  which  consist  of  granite  and  gneiss,  are 
remarkable  for  their  beauty  and  fertility ;  their  slopes  are  studded  with 
numerous  villages,  while  higher  up  they  are  clothed  with  chestnuts,  oaks, 
beeches,  and  pines.  The  E.  and  S.  slopes  descend  to  the  Gulf  of  Taranto. 
In  ancient  times  these  mountains  supplied  the  Athenians  and  Sicilians 
with  wood  for  ship-building,  and  they  were  famed  for  their  cattle.  The 
snow  does  not  disappear  from  the  higher  regions  until  the  latter  end 
of  May,  or  June,  after  which  they  afford  a  delightful  summer  abode  to 
the  natives  with  their  flocks.  This  beautiful  district,  which  has  very 
rarely  been  explored  by  travellers  ,  is  still  in  a  very  primitive  condition. 
Letters  of  introduction  to  influential  inhabitants  should  be  procured  at 
Naples  or  Messina  by  intending  explorers.  The  best  months  for  the 
tour  are  July,  August,  and  September.  Either  Cosenza  or  Cotrone 
(p.  210)  may  be  taken  as  a  starting-point.  Fine  scenery  and  picturesque 
costumes. 

At  Cosenza  the  road  begins  to  ascend,  traversing  well-culti- 
vated land.  The  heights  on  each  side  are  clothed  with  oaks 
and  chestnuts. 

178  M.  Rogliano,  a  small  town  on  a  hill  to  the  left,  com- 
mands a  charming  view  of  the  fertile  country  and  the  sur- 
rounding mountains,  above  which  on  the  ri^'ht  rises  the  M.  Co- 
cuzzo  (5085  ft.).  The  road  descends  into  the  ravine  of  the  8a- 
vuto,  the  ancient  Sabutus,  ascends  Le  Crocelle  di  Ayri folio,  an 
abrupt  ridge  of  the  Apennines,  and  leads  by  Carpanzano,  Coraci, 
Arena  Bianca,    and  through  ravines  and  forest,  to  — 

203  M.  Tiriolo,  a  town  loftily  situated  on  the  watershed 
between  the  Corace,  which  falls  into  the  bay  of  Squillace,  and  the 
Lamato,  which  descends  to  the  bay  of  S.  Eufemia,  the  ancient 
Sinus  Terinaeus.  Near  Tiriolo,  a  name  perhaps  derived  from 
the  Ager  Taurianus,  numerous  coins  and  other  antiquities  have 
been  found.  In  1460  a  bronze  tablet  (now  in  the  imperial  collection 
at  Vienna)  was  discovered  here  .  bearing  the  Senatusconsultum 
against  the  Bacchanalia,  of  B.  C.  18(i,  mentioned  by  Livy  (xxxix.  18). 

Before  Tiriolo  is  reached,  a  road  to  the  left  crosses  the  river  Corace  and 
leads  to  (9i|s  31.)  Catanzaro  (diligence,  see  p.  210). 


202      Route  -20.  MONTELEONE.  From  Naples 

To  the  right  a  road  leads  to  (11  M.)  Nicastro,  an  episcopal  town  on 
the  hill -side,  in  the  now  ruined  castle  of  which  Frederick  II.  once 
confined  his  son  Henry,  who  had  rebelled  against  him.  The  latter 
was  soon  afterwards  drowned  in  the  river  Savuto.  Towards  the  sea, 
3  M.  from  Xicastro,  lies  S.  Eufemia,  with  a  celebrated  Benedictine  mon- 
astery founded  by  Robert  Guiscard,  but  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1638. 

The  road  to  Reggio  traverses  a  chain  of  hills,  and  then  crosses 
the  Lamato,  the  right  bank  of  which  it  skirts  for  some  distance, 
commanding  almost  uninterrupted  views  of  the  bays  of  Squillace 
and  .S.   Eufemia,  which  are  here  barely  19  M.   apart. 

We  next  pass  Casino  Chiriaco  and  cross  the  plain  of  Maida, 
where  in  1806  the  English  auxiliaries  of  the  Bourbons  under 
Sir  John  Stuart  defeated  the  French  under  Regnier  and  drove 
them  out  of  Calabria.  The  road  crosses  the  fertile ,  but  un- 
healthy plain   by  Francavilla  to   Torre  Masdea. 

225  M.  Pizzo  is  a  small  town  situated  on  a  sandstone  rock  on 
the  coast.  Below  it  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  castle  where  Joachim 
Mnrat,  king  of  Naples,  who  had  been  compelled  to  land  here  the 
day  before,  instead  of  at  Salerno  as  he  had  intended ,  was  shot  on 
13th  Oct.  1815.  His  remains  were  interred  in  the  church  at 
Pizzo.  —  The  Naples  and  Messina  steamers  touch  here  (p.  228). 

A  bridle-path  leads  hence  to  Tropea,  beautifully  situated  near  the 
Capo  Vaticano,  whence  the  Lipari  Islands  (K.  36)  may  be  visited. 

The  road,  running  near  the  coast,  next  leads  to  — 

234'/2  M.  Monteleone  (Albergo  d' Italia),  a  loftily  situated  town 
with  11,800  inhab.,  which  was  much  damaged  by  the  earthquake 
of  1783.  The  old  castle  was  erected  by  Frederick  II.  Pleasant 
promenade  commanding  a  charming  view  of  the  sea,  Sicily,  etc. 

A  road  leading  N.  to  the  coast  (3  31.)  passes  through  the  village  of 
Bivona,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Hipponium ,  which  was  afterwards  the 
Roman  colony    Vibo   Valentia,  destroyed  by  the  Saracens  in  983. 

The  road  now   traverses  a  hilly  district  to  — 

244  M.  Mileto,  once  the  favourite  residence  of  Count  Roger 
of  Sicily ,  whose  son  ,  King  Roger  ,  was  born  here.  It  contains 
the  ruins  of  the  abbey  of  S.  Trinita  founded  by  him,  where  his 
remains  and  those  of  his  first  wife  Eremberga  formerly  reposed  in 
two  sarcophagi  which  are  now  in  the  museum  at  Naples.  —  The 
mountains  of  Sicily,  and  particularly  the  summit  of  .<Etna,  now 
become  conspicuous  in  the  horizon. 

From  Jiileto  a  mountain-path  leads  E.  to  the  (5  31.)  grand  ruins  of 
the  once  celebrated  monastery  of  Santo  Stefano  del  Bosco,  situated  in  a 
lonely  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  Apennines.  Near  the  neighbouring  village 
of  Soriano  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  the  Dominican  monastery  of  <S.  Do- 
menico  Soriano,  also  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1783;  and,  on  the 
farther  side  of  the  low  ridge  of  Monte  Astore,  the  remains  of  the  Cerlosa, 
in  which  St.  Bruno  established  his  austere  order  of  Carthusians  in  1094, 
and  where  he  died  and  was  interred  in  1101. 

From  Mileto  the  road  gradually  descends  from  the  heights 
bounding  the  bay  of  Gioja  on  the  N.,  and  at  (254  M.)  Rosarno 
(inters  the  province  of  Calabria  Ultra  I.  The  picturesquely 
situated  town  (3S00  inhab.)  was  destroyed  by  the  earthquake 
of  ITS;!.     The  plain  is  then  traversed  to  (liojii,  which  occupies  the 


to  Reggio.  PALMI.  20.  Route.      203 

site  of  the  ancient  Metaurum,  a  desolate  looking  place,  situated  on 
the  coast  to  the  right,  and  an  extensive  depot  of  oil.  Owing  to 
the  prevalence  of  malaria  here,  the  workmen  always  spend  the 
night  at  Palmi.  We  now  cross  the  Marro,  the  ancient  Metaurus,  a 
river  famed  for  its  fish.  The  earthquake  of  1783  was  particularly 
destructive  in  this  neighbourhood.  The  earth  opened  in  many  places, 
swallowing  up  houses  entire,  and  filling  up  several  valleys.  —  On  the 
coast  to  the  right,  not  far  from  the  road,  on  ,a  cliff  rising  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  sea,  stands  the  singularly  picturesque  town  of  — 

269  M.  Palmi  (no  tolerable  jinn),  with  9724  inhab.,  sur- 
rounded by  orange  and  olive  plantations,  and  affording  beautiful 
views  of  the  coast  and  the  island  of  Sicily,  particularly  from  a  *ter- 
race  on  the  sea  at  the  end  of  the  main  street. 

The  town  is  situated  about  halfway  up  the  '"Monte  Elia,  which 
commands  a  superb  view  of  the  Faro ,  the  castle  of  Scilla ,  the  town  and 
harbour  of  Messina,  and  the  majestic  ^Etna  in  the  background.  The  X. 
coast  of  Sicily  is  visible  as  far  as  Milazzo  ;  out  at  sea  are  Stromboli  and 
the  Lipari  Islands;  to  the  N.  the  bay  of  Gioja  as  far  as  Capo  Vaticano. 
If  the  traveller  on  the  arrival  of  the  diligence  at  Palmi  descends  to  the 
sea ,  and  at  the  farther  end  of  the  main  street  ascends  to  the  right  by  a 
path  through  olive  plantations  (which  a  carabiniere  may  be  asked  to  point 
out),  he  may  reach  the  top  of  the  hill,  stay  10  min.  on  the  top,  and 
regain  the  road  before  the  diligence  comes  up.  (The  conductor  should  of 
course  be  told  of  the  traveller's  intention  beforehand.)  Those  who  prefer 
leaving  the  diligence  at  Palmi  and  paying  a  longer  visit  to  the  Monte  Elia 
will  have  little  difficulty  in  procuring  a  seat  in  a  carriage  at  a  later  hour, 
as  the  road  between  Palmi,  Bagnara,  and  Eeggio  is  always  much  frequented^ 

To  the  S.E.  of  Palmi  lies  (2')2  M.)  Seminara ,  which  has  been  the 
scene  of  two  important  conflicts.  In  1495  the  French  army  defeated  that 
of  King  Ferdinand  II.  under  Gonsalvo  da  Cordova,  and  on  21st  April 
1503  ,  the  French  were  on  nearly  the  same  spot  routed  by  the  Spaniards 
under  Ugo  de  Cardona,  one  of  Gonsalvo's  most  able  generals. 

The  road  from  Palmi  to  Reggio,  traversing  chestnut  and  olive 
plantations,  and  affording  a  succession  of  views  of  the  sea  and  the 
coast,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  on  the  Mediterranean.  It  crosses 
the  Monte  Elia  (see  above),  on  the  S.  slope  of  which  is  situated 
Bagnara  (Locanda  delta  Stella,  tolerable),  and  next  reaches  — 

281  M.  Scilla  (tolerable  trattoria  in  the  main  street  on  the  sea), 
the  ancient  Scylla,  with  a  castle  on  a  promontory  commanding  the 
town.  The  silk  and  wine  produced  here  enjoy  a  high  reputation. 
Numerous  swordflsh  (pesce  spada)  are  caught  here  in  July.  The 
castle  (fine  view),  once  the  seat  of  the  princes  of  Scilla,  was  occu- 
pied by  the  English  after  the  battle  of  Maida,  and  defended  for  IS 
months  (until  1808)  against  the  French.     To  Messina,  see  p.  22S. 

The  rock  of  Scylla ,  represented  in  Homer's  Odyssey  as  a  roaring 
and  voracious  sea-monster,  —  a  beautiful  virgin  above,  and  a  monster 
with  a  wolfs  body  and  dolphin's  tail  below  —  is  depicted  by  the  poets 
iu  conjunction  with  the  opposite  C'/tarybdis  as  fraught  with  imminent 
danger  to  all  passing  mariners.  The  currents  and  eddies  in  the  straits  are 
still  very  rapid,  but  it  is  now  believed  that  the  C'/iarybdis  of  the  ancients 
is  by  no  means  exactly  opposite  to  the  whirlpool  of  Scylla,  as  the 
saying  'incidis  in  Scyllam,  cupiens  vitare  Charybdini'  appears  to  indicate, 
but  outside  the  harbour  of  Messina,  7'|«  M.  from  Scilla,  at  the  point  now 
called  Garofalo  (comp.  p.  '290). 


201      Route  21.  TARANTO.  From  Naples 

An  Eaethqdake  which  took  place  on  the  morning  of  5th  Feb.  1783, 
overthrew  the  greater  part  of  the  town  of  Scilla,  together  with  the  castle, 
while  the  inhabitants  tied  to  the  sea.  In  the  evening  a  second  shock 
rent  the  promontory  asunder,  and  caused  the  sea  to  rise  with  such  impe- 
tuosity that  1500  persons  were  drowned,  and  the  town  laid  under  water. 

The  distance  from  the  castle  of  Scilla  to  the  promontory  of 
Faro,  the  ancient  Pelorum,  between  which  the  strait  lies,  is 
about  2  M.  The  passage  to  Messina  is  most  conveniently  made  from 
the  beautifully  situated  Villa  S.  Giovanni,  to  the  S.  of  the  Punta 
del  Pezzo,  5  M.  from  Scilla.  From  that  point  a  charming  road, 
skirting  the  coast,  and  traversing  luxuriant  gardens,  leads  by  the 
villages  of  Oallico,   Arco,   and  8.  Caterina  to  — 

297  M.  (fromEboli)  Eeggio,  see  p.  212. 

21.    From  Bari  to  Taranto. 

72  M.  Railway  in  32|3-4i|4  hrs. ;  fares  13  fr.  9  fr.  10,  5  fr.  20  c. 

Bari,  see  p.  192.  —  The  line  leads  inland,  towards  the  W., 
and  gradually  ascends.  7  M.  Modugno ,  91/2  M.  Bitetto.  On  a  hill 
3  M.  to  the  N.  lies  Palo  del  Colle,  once  surrounded  by  four  villages 
(Auricarre,  Marescia,  Staglino,  Battaglia),  of  which  few  traces  are 
now  left.  14  M.  Grumo.  25^2  M.  Acquaviva;  about  3  M.  to  the 
W.  is  situated  Cassano,  with  a  recently  discovered  stalactite  grotto 
(key  at  the  Sindaco's) ;  fine  view  from  the  Capuehin  monastery. 

34  M.  Gioia  (13,000  inhab.).  The  line  now  enters  the  Terra 
d'Otranto  (p.  193)  and  traverses  the  low  range  of  hills  which  form 
the  S.E.  spurs  of  the  Apennines.  42  M.  8.  Basilio;  a  tunnel ;  48  M. 
stat.  Castellantta.  Beyond  the  next  tunnel  the  line  crosses  three 
deep  ravines  ('gravine').  53  M.  Palagianello ,  58  M.  Palagiano, 
GO'/o  M.  Massafra,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  slope  of  a 'gravina'. 
The  train  now  approaches  the  sea.  Fine  view  of  the  bay  with  the 
islands  of  S.  Pietro  and  S.  Paolo. 

72  M.  Taranto.  No  good  hotel.  Mono  al  Leone  di  Venezia,  dirty; 
Hotel  dk  i/Europe  ,  in  the  Piazza,  E.  l'^fr.,  also  dirty,  and  landlord  un- 
civil; Albeego  Garibaldi,  at  the  gate,  with  view  towards  the  Mare  Pic- 
colo, R.  l'lij  fr.,  in  better  repute  than  the  others.  —  "Trattoria  del  Moro 
al  Leone  di  Venezia,  charmingly  situated  on  the  coast.  —  Cab  from  the 
station  to  the  town,  i|2  M.,  60  c. 

Taranto,  a  town  with  27,500  inhab.,  is  situated  in  the  N. 
angle  of  the  Gulf  of  Taranto,  on  a  rocky  island  which  divides  the 
deep  inlet  here  into  the  Mare  Piccolo  and  Mare  Grande.  The  latter 
is  bounded  by  the  Capo  S.  Vito  on  the  S.E.  The  harbour  is  pro- 
tected by  two  flat  islands  situated  in  front  of  it,  the  Choerades 
of  antiquity ,  now  8.  Paolo  (the  smaller) ,  occupied  by  a  fort, 
and  8.  Pietro,  the  property  of  the  chapter  of  the  cathedral.  The 
entrance  to  the  harbour  is  between  S.  Vito  and  S.  Paolo,  on  each 
of  which  a  lighthouse  is  situated.  Towards  the  N.W.  the  passage 
is  very  shallow,  and  navigable  for  small  boats  only. 

The  modern  town,  occupying  the  site  of  the  ancient  Acropo- 
lis,    which  extended  far  towards  the  E. ,    is  connected  with  the 


TARANTO. 


■21.  Route. 


mainland  by  bridges  on  the  N.  and  S.  sides.  Over  the  S.  bridge 
runs  an  aqueduct,  attributed  to  the  Greek  Emp.  Nicephorus  I. 
(about  803) ,  2d  M.  in  length ,  and  borne  by  arches  as  it  ap- 
proaches the  town.  The  ebb  and  flow  of  the  tide  is  distinctly 
visible  under  the  bridges  of  Taranto,  one  of  the  few  places  on 
the  Mediterranean  where  it  is  perceptible. 


Taranto  is  the  seat  of  an  archbishop,  a  sub-prefect,  and  other 
dignitaries,  and  carries  on  a  considerable  traffic  in  oil,  oats,  and. 
wheat.  The  population  is  densely  packed  in  confined  houses 
and  narrow  streets,  and  the  traveller  whose  expectations  regard- 
ing the  town  are  founded  on  its  ancient  celebrity  will  be  sadly 
disappointed.  The  town  is  intersected  lengthwise  by  three  streets, 
which  form  the  arteries  of  traffic  for  three  different  classes  of 
the  community,  speaking  three  distinct  dialects.  The  Mare  Pic- 
colo is  skirted  by  the  Strada  Garibaldi,  inhabited  chiefly  by 
fishermen,  whose  language  is  still  strongly  tinctured  with  Greek 
and  is  often  unintelligible  to  the  other  Tarentines.  This  street 
is  connected  by  a  number  of  lanes  with  the  narrow  Main  Street, 
the  chief  business  thoroughfare,  which  under  various  names  inter- 
sects the  town  from  N.W.  to  S.E.,  and  where  the  common  Neapo- 
litan dialect  is  spoken.     The  Strada    YMorio  Emanuele,    recently 


200      Route  21.  TARANTO. 

(■(instructed  on  the  coast,  where  a  different  dialect  is  spoken, 
affords  a  view  of  the  hay  and  the  mountains  of  Calahria,  and 
forms  a  pleasant  evening  promenade. 

The  modernised  Cathedral  of  8.  Cataldo  contains  some  impor- 
tant monuments,  such  as  that  of  Philip  of  Taranto,  son  of  Charles 
II.  of  Anjou.  The  chapel  of  the  saint,  adjoining  the  choir  on  the 
right,  is  sumptuously  decorated.  The  crypt  is  closed.  The  tower 
commands  a  fine  view.  —  The  Castle,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  town, 
and  the  other  fortifications,  date  from  the  time  of  Charles  V.  Towards 
the  S.E.,  where  the  Tarentum  of  antiquity  was  situated,  new  build- 
ings are  now  springing  up.  —  Near  the  gate  towards  Lecce  is  the 
small  museum  of  the  Canonico  Palumbo  (formerly  Ceci;  fee  y2  fr.). 
The  huge  mound  of  oyster-shells  here  dates  from  a  very  early  period. 

Tarentum,  or  Taras,  as  it  was  called  in  Greek,  was  the  most  powerful 
and  wealthy  city  of  Magna  Grsecia,  and  lay  in  a  beautiful  and  fertile  district 
to  the  S.  of  31 1.  Aulon  and  W.  of  the  mouth  of  the  Galsesus.  It  was 
built  by  Spartan  lJartlienians  under  the  guidance  of  Phalanthus,  B.  C.  707, 
and  was  under  the  special  protection  of  Neptune,  by  whose  mythical  son 
Taras  it  is  said  to  have  been  originally  founded.  Its  extensive  commerce 
and  powerful  fleet  were  a  source  of  great  prosperity,  but  with  the  increase 
of  wealth  the  citizens  became  luxurious  and  effeminate.  In  addition  to 
their  navy  and  other  resources,  they  possessed  an  army  of  30,000  infantry 
and  5000  cavalry.  Pythagoras  of  Samos  once  taught  his  philosophy  here, 
and  his  system  was  farther  developed  by  Archytas  of  Tarentum,  the  cele- 
brated mathematician.  With  the  aid  of  Pyrrhus  of  Epirus,  Tarentum 
defended  itself  successfully  against  the  attacks  of  the  Romans,  but  at 
length  succumbed,  B.C.  272,  after  the  departure  of  Pyrrhus  from  Italy. 
In  the  Second  Punic  War  the  town  espoused  the  cause  of  Hannibal,  but 
was  conquered  in  209  by  the  Romans,  who  plundered  it,  carried  off  its 
treasures  of  art,  and  sold  30,000  of  the  citizens  as  slaves.  In  123  the 
Rinnans  established  a  colony  here,  and  the  city  again  became  noted  for  its 
wealth  and  luxury.  The  famous  purple  dye  and  wool  of  Tarentum  were 
its  chief  resources  at  this  period.  In  Horace's  time  Tarentum  was  a  place 
which  the  poet  regarded  as  the  'most  smiling  corner  of  the  world,  where 
the  spring  is  lung,  and  Jupiter  vouchsafes  mild  winters'  (Carm.  ii.  6).  In 
the  middle  ages  Tarentum  was  the  residence  of  Bohemund,  son  of  Robert 
Guiscard,  who  took  part  in  the  first  Crusade. 

The  relics  of  the  celebrated  ancient  city  are  but  scanty. 
The  road  skirting  the  sea  to  Lecce  intersects  an  extensive  Circus, 
'/4  M.  from  the  gate.  About  '/2  M.  from  the  gate  is  the  beautiful 
garden  of  the  Villa  Beaumont-Bonelli  (gardener  i/2  fr.),  facing  the 
Mare  Piccolo.  A  little  to  the  W.,  in  the  vineyards  sloping  towards 
the  sea,  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  private  houses,  now  called 
Le  Fornaci,  and  dating  from  various  periods,  some  of  them  being 
obviously  mediaeval ,  others  constructed  of  the  Roman  'opus 
reticulatnm',  while  a  few  are  apparently  of  still  earlier  date.  To 
the  latter  class  belongs  a  curious  cellar  (or  stable?)  with  ceiling 
of  flat  vaulting  and  a  shaft  for  air.  At  the  entrance  of  one  of 
the  rooms  is  a  mosaic.  The  ruins  are  in  a  sadly  neglected  state. 
—  The  ancient  coins  of  Tarentum  are  remarkably  fine. 

The  Mare  Piccolo  is  divided  into  two  halves  by  the  promon- 
tory 11  I'izzone,  and  the  Punta  della  Penna.  At  its  E.  extremity 
is  the  mouth  of  the  river   Cervaro,   which  is  supposed  to  be  the 


TARANTO.  L>2.  Route.    207 

ancient  Galaesus.  At  the  S.  end,  3/4  M.  from  Taranto,  stands 
the  villa  of  S.  Lucia,  once  the  property  of  the  celebrated  Arch- 
bishop Capecelatro  (d.  1816),  who  placed  on  it  the  inscription 
—  'Si  Adam  hie  peccasset,  Deus  ignovisset  ei',  and  afterwards 
that  of  General  Pepe.  Although  in  a  dilapidated  condition,  it 
still  merits  a  visit,   and  is  thus  described  by  an  old  writer:  — 

'This  is  one  of  the  most  charming  spots  in  the  neighbourhood.  The 
Mare  Piccolo  looks  like  a  broad  lake.  Gentle  slopes,  covered  with  olive- 
groves,  rise  in  every  direction.  A  fine  view  of  Taranto  and  its  towers, 
perched  on  a  rock,  is  enjoyed  hence,  and  still  higher  rise  two  magnificent 
palm-trees,  the  finest  of  which  stands  in  the  courtyard  of  the  archiepiscopal 
residence.  Gardens  with  oranges,  lemons,  figs,  almonds,  and  pomegranates 
slope  down  from  the  town  to  the  water's  edge,  filling  the  air  with  their 
delicious  fragrance1. 

Excellent  fish  abound  in  the  Mare  Piccolo.  They  enter  with 
the  tide  under  the  S.  bridge,  and  are  netted  at  night  in  great  num- 
bers. There  are  no  fewer  than  93  different  species,  and  they  are 
largely  exported  in  every  direction.  Shellfish  are  also  bred  here  in 
vast  numbers.  (Oysters  and  others  are  called  cozze ,  the  best  being 
the  coccioli.~)  The  situation  of  the  beds  is  indicated  by  stakes 
protruding  from  the  water. 

The  climate  of  Taranto  is  somewhat  cold  in  winter,  and  not 
unbearably  hot  in  summer.  The  honey  and  fruit  of  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  in  high  repute,  as  they  were  in  ancient  times.  The 
date-palm  also  bears  fruit  here,  but  it  seldom  ripens  thoroughly. 

In  the  district  between  Taranto,  Brindisi ,  and  Otranto  the  venomous 
tardntola  or  tarantella  spider  occurs.  Its  bite  is  said  to  cause  convul- 
sions and  even  madness,  for  which  evils  music  and  dancing  are  supx><>sed 
to  be  effectual  remedies.  These  terrible  results  probably  exist  chiefly  in 
the  imagination  of  the  natives ,  as  the  illness  seems  now  to  be  out  of 
fashion.  In  Sardinia ,  however ,  and  some  other  places  the  bite  of  the 
tarantella  is    deservedly  dreaded. 

From  Taranto  to  Lecce  (p.  195)  diligence  daily  in  9  hrs.,  via  .S'. 
Giorgio,  Sava,  Manduria  (an  old  town  with  8700  inhab.) ,  and  Canqii. 
Scenery  unattractive. 

22.    From  Taranto  to  Reggio. 

Railway,  297  M.,  in  15-26  hrs.  —  This  line,  which  has  been  con- 
structed very  slowly,  has  been  open  for  some  years  from  Taranto  to 
Cotrone,  but  thence  to  Catanzaro  and  Reggio  it  was  not  completed  till 
1875.  It  now  affords  a  new  and  important  line  of  communication  between 
the  mainland  of  Italy  and  Sicily. 

A  Steamboat  voyage  may  be  pleasantly  combined  with  this  route. 
The  coasting  steamers  of  the  Societa  Peirano  ,  Danuvaro  &  Co.  from  An- 
cona  to  Genoa  generally  touch  at  Taranto  every  fortnight  (alternate 
Wednesdays,  in  the  evening),  Rossano  and  Cotrone  (Thursday  morning  and 
afternoon  respectively),  and  arrive  at  Catania  on  Friday  forenoon.  The 
vessels  usually  steer  near  the  coast,  and  the  voyage  is  uno  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  Mediterranean.  The  service  unfortunately  is  not  always 
very  regular. 

The  railway  at  first  traverses  an  uninteresting,  flat  country. 
The  soil  is  very  fertile,  but  miserably  cultivated.  Although 
quite  capable  of  yielding  two  crops  annually  with  proper  manage- 
ment, it  is  allowed,  in  accordance  with  the  old-fashioned  system 


208      Route  22. 


METAPONTUM. 


From  Tarnnto 


prevalent  here,  to  lie  fallow  for  two  years  after  each  crop.  The 
stations  are  generally  2-5  M.  distant  from  the  towns  and  villages, 
with  which  there  is  often  no  regular  communication. 

27^2  M.  Torremare,  a  castle  with  a  poor  tavern  ,  at  which  a 
horse  may  be   hired  for   the  journey   to  Metapontum   (2-2!/2  fr.). 

About  3'|2  II.  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  station  lie  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
Greek  "temple  in  the  Doric  style,  called  La  Tavola  Paladina  by  the 
peasantry,  who  believe  each  pillar  to  have  been  the  seat  of  a  Saracen 
chieftain.  Fifteen  columns  of  the  peristyle  (ten  on  the  N.,  five  on  the  S. 
side)  are  still  standing.  The  limestone  of  which  they  consist  is  now  much 
disintegrated.  This  temple  marks  the  site  of  the  celebrated  ancient  Greek 
city  of  Metapontum.  Pythagoras  died  here,  B.C.  497,  in  his  90th  year, 
but  his  philosophy  long  survived  him  in  the  principal  towns  of  Magna 
Grsecia,  especially  rt  Metapontum  itself,  Tarentum,  and  Croton.  When 
Alexander  of  Epirus  came  to  Italy  in  B.C.  332,  Metapontum  allied  itself 
with  him ,  and  in  the  Second  Punic  War  it  took  the  part  of  Hannibal. 
Its  enmity  to  Rome   on   the  latter  occasion,  however    caused  its  downfall 


and  at  the  time  of  Pausanias,  in  the  2nd  cent,  after  Christ,  it  was  a  mere 
heap  of  ruins.  —  We  may  now  return  by  the  right  bank  of  the  Bradano. 
The  neighbouring  farm-houses  (masserie),  such  as  the  Masseria  Sansone, 
are  built  of  massive  blocks  from  the  ancient  walls  of  the  town.  On  the 
/oast  are  traces  of  a  harbour  now  filled  with  sand.  To  the  S.W.  are 
rows  of  tombs  which  afford  an  idea  of  the  great  extent  of  the  town. 

Torremare  is  the  junction  of  our  line  with  the  railway  now 
being  constructed  hence  to  Potenza,  Eboli,  and  Naples.  It  is  now 
open  from  Torremare  to  (15'/2  M.)  Pisticci. 

The  Cotrone  and  Keggio  train  crosses  the  Busento.  32'/2  M. 
S.  Busilio  Pisticci,  37'/-2  Al.  Scanzano  Montalbano.     We  next  cross 


to  Reggio.  CASSANO.  22.  Route.      209 

the  Agri,  the  ancient  Aciris.  40i/2  M.  Policoro,  near  which  lay 
the  Greek  town  of  Heraclea  (founded  in  432),  where  Pyrrhus  with 
the  aid  of  his  elephants  gained  his  first  victory  over  the  Romans, 
B.C.  280.  At  Luce,  in  the  vicinity,  the  celebrated  bronze  Tabula 
Heracleensis  (Lex  Julia  Municipalis) ,  now  in  the  Museum  at 
Naples  (p.  66),   was  discovered  in  1753. 

The  train  traverses  a  wood  (Pantano  di  Policoro) ,  full  of 
the  most  luxuriant  vegetation  (myrtles,  oleanders,  etc.),  beyond 
which  are  the  river  Sinno ,  the  ancient  Siris ,  and  the  town  of 
that  name.     The  line  now  approaches  the  sea. 

497-2  M.  Rocca  Imperiale.  The  country  becomes  hilly.  54  M. 
Monte  Giordano,  59  M.  Roseto,  62  M.  Amendolara,  67!/2  M.  Tre- 
bisacce  (a  good  echo  at  the  station),  74  M.  Torre  Cerchiara,  77  M . 
Buffaloria  di  Cassano  (whence  a  branch-line  is  being  constructed 
through  the  valley  of  the  Crati  to  Cosenza,  see  p.  201). 

Cassano  (9000  inhab.),  a  beautifully  situated  town,  with  warm  baths, 
and  an  ancient  castle  on  a  lofty  rock,  lies  9  M.  inland.  The  castle  affords 
a  magnificent  survey  of  the  valleys  of  the  Coscile  and  the  Crati,  the  Sybarix 
and  the  Crathis  of  antiquity.  The  wild,  barren  limestone  mountains  rise 
here  almost  immediately  from  the  plain,  culmtnating  in  the  Monte 
Pollino.  The  Torre  di  Milo  is  pointed  out  here  as  the  tower  whence  the 
stone  was  thrown  that  caused  the  death  of  T.  Annius  Milo,  when  he  was 
besieging  Cosa  on  behalf  of  Pompey. 

The  finest  part  of  the  line  is  between  Roseto  and  Rossano.  It 
commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  precipitous  Monte  Pollino 
(  7852  ft.)  which  is  never  free  from  snow  except  in  summer,  and  of 
the  broad  valley  of  the  Crati,  at  the  head  of  which  rise  the  pine- 
clad  Sila  mountains  (p.  201).    The  train  crosses  the   Crati. 

The  wealthy  and  proverbially  luxurious  Sybaris,  founded  B.C.  720  by 
Achseans  and  Trcezenians,  and  destroyed  in  510  by  the  Crotonians,  is  said 
to  have  lain  on  this  river.  About  6  M.  from  its  supposed  site,  near 
Terranova ,  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  Thurii,  which  was  founded  by  the 
Sybarites  after  the  destruction  of  their  city.  In  443  the  Athenians  sent  a 
colony  thither,  and  with  it  the  historian  Herodotus.  Owing  to  the  wise 
legislation  of  Oharondas,  Thurii  soon  attained  to  great  prosperity,  but  in 
280  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Romans,  and  was  afterwards  plundered  by 
Hannibal.  In  193  it  received  a  Roman  colony,  and  the  new  name  of  Copiae, 
but    it   rapidly  declined,  and  was  at  length  entirely  deserted. 

86  M.  Stat.  Corigliano  Cnlabro.  The  town,  with  10,600 inhab., 
lies  on  a  height,   4  M.  from  the  station. 

93  M.  Stat.  Rossano.  The  town  (Albergo  della  Romanella) 
with  14,900  inhab.  ,  situated  on  a  hill ,  and  possessing  quarries 
of  marble  and  alabaster,  is  5  M.  distant.  This  was  the  birthplace 
of  St.  Nilus.  The  steamboats  touch  at  the  landing-place  (wretched 
inn,  closed  in  summer  owing  to  the  malaria). 

The  train  runs  close  to  the  sea  through  a  mountainous  district, 
and  crosses  the  Trionto.  Stations  Mirto  Crosia,  S.  O'iucomo,  Cum- 
pana ,  and  Cariati  (Albergo  di  Sibari,  miserable).  Farther  on,  the 
train  traverses  pleasant  plantations  of  olives,  vines,  and  figs.  Stat. 
('rucoli,  Cirb,  Torre  di  Melissa,  and  Stro/igoli.  Tlii.s  last,  a  squalid 
village  with  '2000  inhab.,  situated  on  a  bold  eminence  4  M.  from 
Baebekeu.     Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  |4 


210      Route '22.  COTRONE.  From  Taranto 

the  station,  and  reached  by  a  bad  road,  was  the  ancient  Poetelia, 
founded  according  to  tradition  by  Philoctetes,  and  besieged  by  Han- 
nibal after  the  battle  of  Cann«  on  account  of  its  fidelity  to  Rome. 

147'/2  M.  Cotrone  (*Albergo  delta  Concordia,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  town;  carriage  from  the  station  1/2  fr-)>  a  thriving  little  sea- 
port with  8000  inhab.,  situated  on  a  promontory,  was  in  ancient 
times  the  famous  Achtean  colony  of  Croton,  founded  B.C.  710, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  once  so  populous  and  powerful  as  to 
be  able  in  510  to  send  an  army  of  100,000  men  into  the  field 
against  Sybaris.  After  its  great  victory  on  that  occasion,  however, 
Croton  declined ;  not  long  afterwards  the  citizens  were  defeated 
by  the  Locrians  on  the  river  Sagras,  and  in  299  the  town  fell  into 
the  hands  of  Agathocles  of  Syracuse.  During  the  height  of  the 
prosperity  of  the  city,  Pythagoras,  who  had  been  banished  from 
Samos  by  the  tyrant  Polycrates,  and  was  then  in  his  40th  year, 
established  himself  at  Croton.  He  attracted  a  band  of  disciples 
and  founded  his  brotherhood  here,  B.C.  450,  but  was  at  length 
banished  in  consequence  of  the  jealousy  of  the  citizens.  A  visit 
should  be  paid  to  the  old  Castle,  the  highest  tower  of  which  com- 
mands a  fine  view  (admission  by  applying  to  an  officer  or  ser- 
geant). 

Oranges  and  olives  thrive  admirably  in  the  environs,  and  are 
largely  exported.  Liquorice  is  also  a  staple  product.  An  intro- 
duction to  Signor  Baracco,  one  of  the  wealthiest  land-owners  in 
Italy,  who  resides  in  the  neighbourhood,  will  be  found  of  great 
service. 

About  7  M.  to  the  S.E.  is  the  Capo  delle  Colonne,  or  Capo  Nao,  alow 
promontory,  much  exposed  to  the  wind.  (Route  to  it  by  land  2'|2  hrs., 
very  rough ;  boat  6  fr.)  As  the  steamer  rounds  this  cape ,  the  eye  is 
arrested  by  a  solitary  column ,  rising  conspicuously  on  massive  substruc- 
tions above  the  few  modern  buildings  of  the  place.  This  is  now  the  sole 
relic  of  the  Temple  of  Hera  of  the  Lacinian  Promontory ,  once  the  most 
revered  divinity  on  the  whole  of  the  Gulf  of  Tarentum.  There  are  also 
some  remains  of  'opus  reticulatum1  from  ancient  Roman  villas.  To  the 
S.  W.  of  this  promontory  are  three  others,  the  Capo  delle  Cimiti,  the  Capo 
Rhzuto,  and  the  Capo  Castella. 

The  part  of  the  line  between  Cotrone  and  Catanzaro  (371/2M.), 
completed  in  Nov.  1875,  presents  few  objects  of  interest.  It  passes 
Cairo,  and  cosses  the  Tacina,  Crocchio,  Simmari,  and  Alii. 

185  M.  Citanzaro.  —  Albergo  Serravalle,  with  a  good  trattoria, 
and  a  dependance  Albergo  d'/talia  ,  It.  1-2  fr.  ,  scale  of  charges  posted  up 
as  in  many  Calabrian  inns.     Alb.  Roma  ;  Alb.  Centrale. 

Diligence  at  6  p.m.  to  Tiriolo  (p.  201)  in  connection  with  the  dligences 
to  Cosenza  and  Reggio.  —  Carriage  to  Pizzo  25-30  fr. ;  to  Reggio  via  Pizzo 
in  two  days,  100  fr.  —  Mule  3-4  fr.  a  day. 

Catanzaro,  with '24.900 inhab.,  the  capital  of  Calabria  Ultra  II., 
prettily  situated  6  M.  from  the  sea,  boasts  of  a  cathedral  (fine  view 
from  the  campanile  by  evening  light),  a  castle  of  Robert  (iuiscard, 
numerous  velvet  and  silk  manufactories,  and  luxuriant  olive-groves. 
(The  marina  is  about  1'2  M.  distant;  fare  2y2  ,fr.J  The  climate  is 
cool  in  summer,  and  snow  often  lies  in  winter.     Many  wealthy 


to  Reyyio.  SQUILLACK.  :>:>.  Route.      211 

families  reside  here.  The  handsome  Calabrian  costume  is  still 
frequently  seen  here,  particularly  on  Sundays. 

The  part  of  the  line  between  Catanzaro  and  Reggio,  112  M., 
which  was  also  completed  in  1875,  skirts  the  coast  and  passes 
through  several  promontories  by  means  of  tunnels. 

189l/2  M.  Squillace,  the  ancient  Scylaceum,  is  perched  on  an 
almost  inaccessible  rock  near  the  coast,  nearly  opposite  the  lofty 
Monte  Moscia. 

Cassiodorns,  the  private  secretary  of  Theodorie  the  Great,  was  born 
at  Scylaceum ,  and  after  the  death  of  his  master  retired  to  his  native 
place,  where  he  founded  a  monastery,  wrote  a  number  of  learned  works, 
and  died  there  in  560  at  the  age  of  nearly  a  hundred.  —  To  the  N.  of 
Squillace  the  Emp.  Ot/io  II.  was  defeated  in  July,  982,  by  the  Arabs, 
who  had  crossed  over  from  Sicily,  and  had  recently  been  routed  by  him 
at  Colonne ,  to  the  S.  of  Cotrone.  He  himself  escaped  almost  by  a 
miracle,  and  succeeded  in  reaching  Uossuno  ,  where  he  met  bis  consort 
Theophanu.  Otho  did  not  long  survive  this  reverse;  he  died  at  IJome  in 
December,  983,  and  was  interred  in  the  old  church  of  St.  Peter. 

The  train  passes  through  the  promontory  by  means  of  a  tunnel. 
193  M.  Montauro,  197  M.  Soverato,  199  M.  Santo  Sostene,  201  M. 
S.  Andrea,  204i/2  M.  Badoltito,  207 '/2  M.  S.  Caterina  ,  214'/2  M. 
Monasterace  (near  which,  at  Stilo,  are  iron-works),  221  M.  Riace, 
223  M.  Caulonia.  The  river  Alaro  is  supposed  to  be  the  Sayras 
of  antiquity,  where  an  army  of  130,000  Crotonians  is  said  to  have 
been  utterly  routed  by  10,000  Locrians.  On  this  river  lies  Castel- 
vetere,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Aohajan  Caulonia,  where  Pytha- 
goras sought  refuge  after  his  expulsion  from  Croton. 

229  M.  Boccella,  with  6300  inhab.,  lies  near  thecoast.  —  231  M. 
Gioiosa,  with  8500  inhab.  ;   234  AT.  Siderno,  with  8100  inhab. 

237  M.  Gerace.  The  town,  with  7200  inhab.,  and  a  Romanesque 
church,  lies  on  the  slope  of  a  lofty  spur  of  the  Apennines,  having 
risen  from  the  ruins  of  Lorn"  Epizephyrii ,  the  once  celebrated 
colony  of  the  Locrians,  founded  B.C.  683,  provided  with  a  salutary 
code  of  laws  by  Zaleucus  (664),  and  extolled  by  Pindar  and  De- 
mosthenes for  its  wealth  and  love  of  art.  The  ruins  of  the  ancient 
city  near  Torre  di  Gerace  are  now  concealed  by  an  orange  garden. 

The  Passo  del  J/crca/^e,  a  mountain  path,  leads  from  Oerace  through 
beautiful  woods,  and  over  the  lofty  Aspromonte ,  to  Casaliatovo  (p.  -00). 
Thence  by  a  post-road  to  Gioja  (p.  201)  or  to  Seminara  (p.  203),  about  37  31. 
The  top  of  the  pass  commands  a  delightful  view  of  the  sea  in  both  direc- 
tions. In  descending,  we  overloock  the  Bay  of  Gioja  as  far  as  the  Lipari 
Islands. 

242  M.  Ardore,  244l/2  M.  llovalino,  249 '/2  M.  Bianeonuovo, 
258  M.  Brancaleone.  The  line  now  skirts  the  Capo  Spnrtirento, 
the  Promontorium  Herculis  of  antiquity,  the  S.  E.  extremity  of 
Calabria  (station,  262  M. ).  266  M.  1'aiizzi.  The  train  turns  towards 
the  W.  and  then  nearly  to  the  N.  ;  269'/2  M-  Bovn,  272  M. 
Amandolea,   277  M.  Meiito. 

282 '/2M.  Saline.  The  train  affords  a  view  of  the  coast  and 
mountains  of  Sicily,  and  rounds  the  Capo  dell'  Armi.  the  Promon- 
torium Leucopetrae ,    which  was  in  ancient  times  regarded   as  the 

14* 


212    Route  2-2.  REGGIO. 

termination  of  the  Apennines.  Cicero  landed  here  in  B.C.  44, 
after  the  murder  of  Csesar,  having  been  compelled  by  adverse  winds 
to  turn  back  from  his  intended  voyage  to  Greece,  and  he  was 
then  persuaded  by  citizens  of  Rhegium  to  repair  to  Velia,  where 
he  met  Brutus. 

286  M.   Lazzaro,   290  M.  Pellaro,   2i)3y2  M.  S.  Gregorio. 

297  M.  Reggio.  —  "Albbrgo  Vittoria,  in  the  Corso  Garibaldi, 
R.  I1/2  fr. ;  Europa.  —  Trattoria  Lombarda,  in  a  side-street  of  the  Corso ; 
Caffe  Garibaldi.  —  Carriages  for  excursions  in  the  Piazza  Vittorio  Emanuele. 
—  Steamer  to  Messina  at  7.30  a.m.  and  3.30  p.m.  daily,  l'|2  fr. ;  embar- 
eution  and  landing  25  c.  ;  the  passage  may  also  be  made  in  one  of  the 
Naples  mail  steamers  which  cross  several  times  weekly 

Reggio,  called  Reggio  di  Calabria  to  distinguish  it  from  Reggio 
nell'  Emilia,  the  ancient  Rhegium,  and  originally  a  Eubcean  colony, 
was  founded  in  B.C.  723  by  fugitive  Messenians,  and  soon  rose  to 
prosperity.  It  is  now  the  capital  of  the  province  Calabria  Ultra  I. 
and  an  archiepiscopal  residence,  with  16,000,  or,  with  the  surround- 
ing villages,  35,200  inhabitants.  The  town  was  almost  entirely 
destroyed  by  the  great  earthquake  of  1783  (p.  204),  and  it  there- 
fore now  presents  a  modern  appearance,  with  its  broad  and  handsome 
streets  extending  from  the  sea  to  the  beautiful  hills  in  the  rear, 
which  are  studded  with  numerous  and  handsome  villas.  Nothing 
can  surpass  the  beauty  of  the  environs  and  the  view  of  the 
Sicilian  coast  with  Mt.  ^Etna ,  especially  in  the  evening ,  when 
the  sun  sets  behind  the  mountains  near  Messina.  The  distance 
from  Reggio  to  Messina  is  about  42/3  M.  The  conjecture  that  Sicily 
was  once  connected  with  the  mainland  was  prevalent  at  a  very 
early  period,  and  is  borne  out  by  modern  geological  investigations. 

In  the  wars  'of  both  ancient  and  modern  times  Reggio  has  suffered 
terrible  reverses.  It  was  first  destroyed  by  the  Romans,  then  in  549  by 
the  Goth  Totila,  in  918  by  the  Saracens,  in  1005  by  the  Pisans,  in  1060 
by  Robert  Guiscard,  again  by  Frederick  Barbarossa,  and  lastly  in  1552  and 
1597   by  the  Turks. 

Excursions.  At  the  back  of  Reggio  rises  the  imposing  ,  forest-clad  As- 
promonte,  the  W.  extremity  of  the  range  which  in  ancient  times  bore  the 
name  of  Sila;  the  highest  point  is  the  Montalto  (6907  ft.).  The  summit  is 
overgrown  with  beech-trees,  the  slopes  partly  with  pines.  Here,  in  the  vici- 
nity of  Reggie,  Garibaldi  was  wounded  and  taken  prisoner  by  the  Italian 
troops  under  i'allavicini ,  29th  Aug.  1862.  The  ascent,  which  is  very 
laborious,  is  best  undertaken  from  Villa  Giovanni  (p.  204)  or  from  Seilla 
(p.  203).  Good  mules  and  competent  guides,  however,  are  more  easily 
obtained  at  Villa  Giovanni  (two  mules  and  one  guide  for  a  day  and  a 
half  14  fr.).  If  possible  the  start  should  be  made  early  on  a  moonlight 
night.  The  summit,  which  is  reached  in  9  hrs. ,  commands  an  imposing 
view  of  the  sea,  the  islands,  and  Sicily.  Those  who  make  a  sufficient 
stay  at  Reggio  should  not  omit   to  make  this  beautiful  forest  excursion. 

To  Srilla,  see  p.  203.  —  Ascent  of  the  HU.  Elia,  see  p.  203.  —  This 
excursion  is  best  made  by  driving  to  Palmi  (4-5  hrs. ;  15-20  fr.),  ascending 
the  hill  on  foot,  and  descending  through  beautiful  chestnut  wood  to  Bag- 
nara  in  2  hrs.,  where  the  carriage  should  be  ordered  to  wait.  Travelling 
in  the  province  Calabria  Ultra  has  always  been  considered  free  from  hazard. 


SICILY. 


General  Remarks. 

Strabo,  the  Greek  geographer,  in  one  passage  calls  Sicily  an  ;addition\ 
in  another  a  'detached  portion1  of  Italy;  and  there  is  indeed  not  one  of 
the  surrounding  islands  so  intimately  allied,  geographically  as  well  as 
historically,  with  the  great  peninsula  which  bisects  the  Mediterranean. 
Goethe  has  justly  observed  that,  without  Sicily,  Italy  would  lose  much 
of  its  charms.  'The  climate  cannot  be  too  highly  extolled;  the  beauties 
are  innumerable."1  This  cannot  fail  to  be  experienced  by  every  traveller 
who  forms  acquaintance  with  this  'gem  among  islands1.  Nor  is  the  beauty 
of  the  scenery  the  sole  attraction  to  the  wanderer  from  the  north.  Those 
equipped  with  even  a  superficial  knowledge  of  history  cannot  but  exper- 
ience a  profound  interest  in  the  places  with  which  the  most  ancient  Hel- 
lenic and  Roman  traditions  are  connected,  where  the  destinies  of  Athens, 
Carthage,  and  Rome  have  been  decided,  and  where  medieeval  characters 
m.i  famous  as  Henry  VI.  and  Frederick  II.  have  ruled.  There  is  not  a 
nation  which  has  materially  intluenced  the  destinies  of  European  civili- 
sation, that  has  not  left  distinct  traces  of  its  agency  in  this  island.  Those 
whose  time  and  resources  permit  are  therefore  strongly  recommended  to 
visit  Sicily  before    proceeding  homewards. 

Modes  of  Travelling.  Steamboats  ply  almost  daily  (see  pp.  226,  228) 
from  Naples  to  Palermo,  and  from  Naples  to  Messina.  Others  make  the 
passage  once  a  fortnight:  alternate  Fridays  from  Marseilles  to  Palermo; 
alternate  Mondays  from  Genoa  to  Messina  (Messageries  Maritimes  de 
France) ;  and  once  a  month  from  Genoa  by  Leghorn  and  Civita  Vecchia. 
to  Messina.  Lastly,  once  weekly  to  Sardinia  (p.  331)  and  the  ports  of  the 
Gulf  of  Taranto  (p.  207),  and  to  Malta  and  the  East.  —  The  new  railway 
to  Reggio  and  the  passage  thence  to  Messina,  see  p.  207. 

Other  steamers  make  the  circuit  of  the  island  once  a  week,  Palermo 
being  the  starting-point  and  Messina  and  Syracuse  the  principal  stations 
{Societa  Florio ,  whose  headquarters  are  at  Palermo)-  A  steamboat  also 
plies  several  times  weekly  between  Palermo  and  Messina,  see  p.  278.  The 
service  is  tolerably  punctual  on  the  N.  and  E.  coasts,  but  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  island,  where  the  navigation  is  more  difficult,  delays  of  many  hours 
and  even  days  frequently  occur. 

Railways.  The  network  of  railways  with  which  the  island  is  to  be 
overspread  is  steadily  progressing.  The  following  lines  are  completed: 
From  Messina  by  Catania  to  Syracuse ,  114  M. ;  (2)  From  Catania  to 
S.  Caterina,  72  M.,  being  part  of  the  line  to  Girgenti  or  to  Palermo;  (3) 
From  Palermo  to  Spina,  6OV2  M. ,  part  of  the  line  to  Girgenti;  and  also 
part  of  the  other  end  of  this  line,  viz.  from  I*<tsst>/ondulu  to  Girgenti  and 
Porto  Empedocle  (the  harbour  of  Girgenti),  16l/2  M.  The  remaining  part, 
viz.  from  Spina  to  Passofonduto,  will  not  be  iinished  for  one  or  two  years 
more. 

Diligences  run  on  all  the  principal  roads  in  Sicily,  the  fare  being 
15  c.  per  kilometre  (1  kilometre  =  5/g  English  M.),  or  about  25  c.  per 
English  mile;  but  the  vehicles  are  generally  bad,  and  there  is  often  a  diffi- 
culty in  procuring  seats  as  no  supplementary  carriages  are  provided.    Pass- 


214  SICILY.  General  Remarks. 

oncers  for  the  longer  distances  have  the  preference  ,  and  those  who  wish 
to  be  taken  up  at  an  intermediate  station  are  never  certain  of  obtaining 
a  seat.  This  system  moreover  encourages  dishonesty  and  extortion  on  the 
part  of  the  conductors.  Diligence-travelling,  however,  has  come  more 
into  favour  since  the  completion  of  the  new  roads  at  the  W.  end  of  the 
island.  If  any  danger  is  apprehended  ,  a  sufficient  escort  is  always  pro- 
vided. The  traveller  will  often  find  it  convenient  to  travel  hy  these 
vehicles  from  station  to  station,  and  then  to  make  digressions  from  the 
high  road  on  foot  or  on  mule-hack.  Driver's  fee  5  soldi.  The  'Periodica', 
or  omnibus  which  competes  with  the  diligence  on  the  principal  routes, 
is    a    very  inferior  conveyance. 

Carriages  may  he  hired  at  all  the  larger  towns.  The  usual  charge 
throughout  the  island  for  a  carriage  with  three  horses,  when  hired  for 
several  days,  is  ^0-2o  fr.,  including  tolls  (catt'ita),  but  exclusive  of  buona 
mano  (2-;5  fr.  per  dav).  The  average  dailv  journey  is  40  Sicilian  miles 
(37'|s  Engl.  31.). 

JIules.  Sow  that  the  new  roads  are  completed  the  traveller  cannot 
be  recommended  to  perforin  the  whole  of  his  Sicilian  tour  on  the  back 
of  a  mule,  as  used  to  be  the  practice.  Not  only  is  the  constant  riding 
fatiguing  and  monotonous  ,  but  it  is  not  pleasant  to  be  always  dependent 
on  one's  guide  Cvetturino')  who  contracts  to  provide  the  traveller  with 
every  necessary  at  a  fixed  sum  per  da.y.  The  usual  charges  from  Palermo 
are  for  one  person  with  two  mules  40  fr.,  for  two  persons  with  four  mules 
(JO  fr.  per  day,  and  so  on.  Travelling  by  diligence,  or  even  in  hired 
carriages  on  the  high  roads  is  therefore  less  expensive  than  riding;  but 
there  are  of  course  many  excursions  where  riding  or  walking  alone  is 
practicable. 

Letters  of  introduction  to  inhabitants  of  the  island  will  be  found 
very  useful. 

The  charges  for  a  mule  varies  in  different  parts  of  the  island,  but  the 
maximum  may  be  stated  at  10  fr.  pei1  diem,  which  should  not  be  exceeded. 
The  attendant  expects  a  slight  additional  fee.  If  a  mule  be  engaged  witli 
a  guide  who  is  also  mounted,  for  a  journey  of  several  days,  the  whole 
charge  does  not  exceed  7-10  fr.  per  day.  If,  however,  the  traveller  does 
not  return  to  the  point  of  starting,  the  return-journey  must  be  paid  for. 
The  rider  should  previously  stipulate  for  a  good  saddle  (sella  or  sedda 
inglese),  and  not  a  'bisazza  senza  statFe\  i.  e.  a  saddle  without  stirrups, 
such  as  the  Sicilians  use. 

Brigandage.  In  consequence  of  the  unsafe  state  of  the  country  from 
the  events  of  1860  until  recently,  a  commission  was  formed  in  July,  1875, 
for  the  purpose  of  enquiring  into  and  suppressing  the  evil ;  and  the  result 
of  the  stringent  measures  adopted  by  government  will  probably  soon  be 
appararent.  Generally  speaking,  it  is  wealthy  natives,  and  not  foreigners 
against  whom  predatory  attacks  are  directed.  Some  years,  however,  must 
elapse  before  travelling  will  be  attended  with  perfect  security  and  comfort. 
The  provinces  of  Messina  and  Catania,  including  Jit.  iEtna,  are  regarded 
as  perfectly  sale ,  while  the  most  hazardous  locality  is  the  environs  of 
Palermo.  Previous  enquiries  as  to  the  state  of  the  country  should  always 
be  made  from  different  sources.  The  advice  given  by  innkeepers  is  too 
often  prompted  by  interested  motives.  During  the  day  there  is  little 
ground  for  apprehension.  Those  who  travel  at  night,  and  have  the 
misfortune  to  lie  attacked,  had  better  at  once  obey  the  usual  order  'faccia 
in  terra'  ('down  on  your  face').  In  this  case  no  more  serious  consequences 
will  ensue  than  the  loss  of  money  and  watch. 

Flan  of  Tour.  The  best  seasons  for  travelling  in  Sicily  are  the  months 
of  April  and  3Iay,  or  September  and  October.  Even  in  January  the  weather 
is  often  fine  and  settled.  The  ascent  of  ^Etna  in  spring  is  possible,  but 
the  best  period  is  August  or  September ,  after  the  first  showers  of 
autumn  have  cleared     the    atmosphere. 

Many  travellers,  especially  if  accompanied  by  ladies,  will  content 
themselves  with  a  visit  to  Pult>nno,  and  to  Afessiiu/  and  Taoi'minit  amidst 
the,  striking  scenery  of  the  E.  coast,  and  they  will  perhaps  include  Ca- 
tania and   Ml.   .Klim,   and    possibly    a iviji'uli  also  in  their  tour.     All  thes 


General  Remarks.  SICILY.  215 

places  except  the  last  named  may  be  visited  with  ease  and  comfort,  as 
the  steamboat  and  railway  services  are  regular  and  the  inns  good.  The 
excursion  to  Girgenti,  on  the  other  hand,  is  attended  with  more  difficulty, 
as  the  journey ,  thence  must  be  cither  be  continued  by  the  tedious  and 
uncomfortable  diligence,  or  by  one  of  the  steamers  plying  along  the  S. 
coast,  the  service  of  which  is  extremely  irregular  in  bad  weather.  Until 
recently  the  W.  half  of  the  island,  and  particularly  the  ruins  of  Segesta 
and  Setinunto,  the  Monte  S.  Giuliano ,  and  Trapatii,  could  only  be  visited 
on  mule-back  or  on  foot,  but  now  that  the  new  roads  are  completed  they 
may  be  reached  by  diligence  or  hired  carriage.  The  best  mode  of  ex- 
ploring the  very  picturesque  N.   Coast  is  mentioned  at  p.  277. 

A  tour  to  Palermo,  Messina,  Taormina ,  Syracuse,  and  Girgenti  may 
be  accomplished  in  a  fortnight:  —  Palermo  3-4  days  5  journey  to  Girgenti 
one  day,  at  Girgenti  1-2  days;  diligence  and  railway-journey  through  the 
interior  of  the  island  to  Catania  l'/'-~~  days ,  or  by  steamer  to  Syracuse 
in  18  hrs.;    at  Syracuse    l'|j-'-2  days;   at  Taormina   1-2  days;   at  Messina  1- 

2  days.  —  The  most  energetic  of  travellers,  however,  will  take  at  least  a 
month  to  exhaust  the  beauties  of  the  island.  The  following  routes  are 
the  most  important:  —  Palermo  3-4  days;  journey  of  4  days  by  land,  or 
voyage  by  steamer,  direct  in  18  hrs.,  from  Palermo  to  Messina;  in  the 
latter  case  Milazzo   and  Patti  (Tyndaris)  should    be  visited   from  Messina, 

3  days;  by  railway  to  Taormina  1  day;  Catania  and  sEtna  3  days;  stay 
at  Syracuse  2  days ;  by  steamer  in  18  hrs.  to  Girgenti;  at  Girgenti  i-2  days  ; 
by  land  in  2  days  to  Seiaccti,  Selinunto,  and  Castelvctrano ;  thence  in  2  days 
by  Calatajimi  (Segesfa),  or  in  4  days,  if  Marsala  and  Trapani  be  included, 
to  Palermo. 


Geography  and  Statistics. 


Sicily  (the  ancient  Sicilia,  Sikelia,  Trinacria,  or  Tn'ot/etra)  is  the 
largest  island  in  the  Mediterranean.  Its  area,  according  to  the  most  recent 
measurements,  amounts  to  29,240  sq.  kilometres,  i.  c  about  11,450  Engl, 
sq.  M.  The  form  of  the  island  is  an  irregular  triangle,  the  W.  angle  of 
which  is  the  promontory  of  Lilybaeum,  or  Capo  di  Jioeo,  near  Marsala,  the 
X.  E.  angle  the  promontory  of  Pelorum  (Capo  del  Faro)  nearest  the  main- 
land,  and  the  S.  E.  angle  the  promontory  of  Pachynum  (Capo  Passaro). 
The  N.  coast  is  200,  the  E.  J35,  and  the  S.  W.  177  Engl.  M.  in  length. 

Geological  Formation.  The  island  is  very  mountainous.  Hocks  of 
the  primary  formation  arc  to  be  found  in  the  X.E.  angle  of  the  island 
only:  —  (1)  The  mountain-range  extending  from  the  Faro  di  Messina 
("N.E.  extremity)  southwards  to  the  neighhourhood  of  Taormina,  and  an- 
ciently called  the  Mantes  A'eptunii  or  Pelorides,  the  highest  point  of  which 
is  the  Dinnamari  (3707  ft.)  near  Messina;  (2)  The  range  extending  from 
the  Faro  di  Messina  along  the  N.  coast  to  Milazzo.  These  mountains  are 
chiefly,  composed  of  gneiss,  mica-slate,  and  clay-slate,  through  which, 
particularly  at  Milazzo ,  granite  occasionally  makes  its  appearance.  — 
The  remainder  of  the  X.  coast,  as  far  as  the  Monte  S.  Giuliano  CSV.  ex- 
tremity) and  the  yEgadian  Islands,  is  flanked  by  a  nearly  continuous  chain 
of  hills  of  the  secondary  formation,  resembling  the  Jura  or  so-called 
Apennine  limestone.  The  principal  summits  here,  which  are  also  notice- 
able on  account  of  their  situation  and  form,  are  the  Mo/th-  S.  Cnlogero 
near  Termini  (4347  ft.),  the  Monte  Pellegrino  near  Palermo  (LOoS  ft.),  and 
the  Monte  S.  Giuliano  (24fi4  ft.)  near  Trapani.  —  With  the  exception  of 
a  few  branches  which  this  main  chain  sends  forth  to  the  S.  and  S.W., 
the  whole  of  the  rest  of  the  island  (consisting  chiefly  of  the  "\Y  and 
S.  slopes)  is  composed  of  the  tertiary  formation,  in  the  deposits  of  which, 
and  particularly  in  the  loam,  clay,  and  gypsum,  are  found  extensive  strata 
of  sulphur  and  rock  salt.  The  sulphur-strata  extend  westwards  as  far  as 
the  mountains  near  Salemi  and  Partanna,  which  belong  to  the  secondary 
formation,  and  eastwards  as  far  as  the  mountains  of  Kammacca.  The 
S.E.    angle    of   the     island    presents   a    rock-formation   of  a    very    peculiar 


"1 1 6  SICILY.  General  Remarks, 

character,  nf  which  the  Monte  Laura  (3231  ft.)  forms  the  centre.  The 
surface  consists  almost  exclusively  of  tertiary  shell-limestone,  bnt  the 
profound  ravines  formed  by  the  rivers  show  that  this  formation  alternates 
with  volcanic  rock,  which  has  most  probably  been  formed  by  the  agency 
of  submarine  volcanoes  at  a  period  prior  to  the  upheaval  of  Mt.  ^tna. 
(The  southernmost  of  these  volcanoes  must  have  been  near  the  Capo 
Passaro.)  —  Mt.  jEtna^  the  most  recent  formation,  rises  to  a  height  of 
10,840  ft. ,  and  is  completely  detached  from  the  other  mountains  by 
the  valleys  of  the  Cantara  and  Simeto.  The  watershed  between  these 
rivers ,  however,  to  the  N.  W.  of  iEtna,  attains  a  considerable  height 
(3792  ft.). 

The  island  contains  no  plains  of  any  extent.  The  most  considerable 
is  the  Piano  di  Catania  (Ager  Leontinvs,  Campi  Laestrygonii),  extending 
between  the  rivers  Simeto  and  Gurnalunga.  The  plains  of  the  coast,  of 
Terra-nova  (Campi  Geloi),  Licata,  and  Milazzo,  may  also  be  mentioned. 

The  island  suffers  greatly  from  want  of  water  owing  to  the  re- 
moval of  the  primeval  forests.  Most  of  the  rivers  are  turbulent  and 
destructive  torrents  in  winter,  frequently  rendering  the  roads  impassable, 
whilst  in  summer  they  are  generally  dry.  The  beds  thus  formed  are  called 
fiumara,  Sicil.  cittmara.  The  principal  rivers  are  the  Giarretta ,  formed 
by  the  union  of  the  Simeto  and  Gurnalunga  to  the  S.  of  Catania ,  the 
Cantara  to  the  S.  of  Taormina  ,  the  Flume  JSalso  (Himera  Meridionalis) 
near  Licata,  the  Fiume  Platani  to  the  W.  of  Girgenti ,  and  the  Fiwne 
fietici  between  Sciacca  and  Castelvetrano. 

Products.  In  consequence  of  the  want  of  water,  the  once  luxuriant 
fertility  of  the  island  has  greatly  decreased.  Wheat,  barley,  and  beans, 
which  form  almost  the  only  crops  in  the  interior  of  the  island,  yield  on 
an  average  an  eleven-fold  return.  As  the  Sicilian  wheat  is  of  excellent 
quality  and  commands  a  high  price,  it  is  usually  exported,  while  an  in- 
ferior kind  is  imported  for  home  consumption  ;  bvit  the  peculiarity  of  the 
farm- ten  lire,  the  inferiority  of  the  agricultural  implements,  and  the  oc- 
casional deficiency  of  hands ,  which  is  supplied  in  many  parts  by 
peasants  from  Calabria,  are  unfavourable  to  the  agricultural  prosperity  of 
the  country.  The  fields,  like  those  in  Sardinia  and  N.  Africa,  are  enclosed 
by  cactus-hedges,  which  frequently  attain  a  considerable  height.  Their  fruit, 
the  cactus-fig,  of  a  sweetish,  somewhat  insipid  taste,  is  much  esteemed  by 
the  natives.  In  some  places,  such  as  the  plain  of  the  Conca  d'Oro  near 
Palermo,  there  are  whole  fields  of  the  cactus,  the  yield  of  which  is  very 
considerable.  The  cotton  culture,  which  was  greatly  extended  during  the 
American  civil  war,  has  since  then  declined,  as  the  Sicilian  cotton  is 
very  inferior  to  the  American.  Sumach  (Rhus  coriaria,  the  leaves  of 
which  are  used  in  tanning  and  as  a  black  dye)  and  linseed  are  among  the 
staple  exports.  Other  products  exported  are  oranges,  lemons,  citrons,  and 
their  essential  oils,  almonds,  olive  oil,  wine  (Marsala,  Riposto,  Catania, 
Vittoria,  and  Siracusa),  nuts,  capers,  pistachios,  manna,  liquorice,  lentils, 
and  raisins.  The  chief  animal  products  are  silk,  hides,  wool,  anchovies, 
tunny-fish,  and  cantharides.  Mineral  products  :  sulphur,  salt,  and  marble. 
The  island  possesses  no  mines  of  the  precious  metals  or  of  coal.  A  large 
proportion  of  the  merchants  are  now  Germans  and  Swiss,  while  during  the 
last  century  they  were  almost  exclusively  English.  About  two-thirds  of 
the  manufactured  goods  imported  into  Sicily,  as  well  as  Italy,  pass  through 
the  hands  of  Swiss  and  German  merchants.  The  statistics  relating  to 
the  exports  and  imports  are  untrustworthy,  but  it  is  ascertained  that 
the  former  are  far  more  considerable  than  the  latter.  This  will  be  still 
more  the  case  as  agriculture  advances  in  consequence  of  the  partition  of 
the  vast  landed  estates  and  the  promotion  of  the  public  safety. 

Minekal  Baths,  most  of  them  sulphureous,  and  already  famous  in 
ancient  times,  are  established  at  Sr.iacra  on  the  Monte  S.  Calogero  (Thermse 
Selinuntinse),  at  Termini  (Thenme  Himei-enses),  at  the  Termini  near  Barcel- 
ona, and  at  Aeireale  near  Messina.  The  bath-arrangements  are  very  de- 
fective, those  at  Aeireale  and  the  two  Termini  being  the  best. 

The  Population  of  the  island  according  to  the  last  census  of  31st 
Dec.  1871,  amounts  to  2,584,099  (now  about  2,700,000)  or  on  an  average  225 


Historical  Notice.  .SICILY.  217 

souls  per  Engl.  sq.  51.  National  schools  have  been  established  everywhere 
under  the  new  regime,  and  the  towns  now  possess  commercial  (saiola  tecnica) 
and  grammar  schools,  but  the  results  attained  have  been  somewhat  disap- 
pointing. In  1864  the  number  of  'analfabeti1  (persons  who  could  neither 
read  nor  write)  was  902  per  thousand,  and  down  to  1872  the  proportion 
had  only  decreased  to  872  per  thousand. 

Districts.  From  the  Saracen  period  down  to  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century  the  island  was  divided  into  three  districts  :  Val  (Welaia)  di 
Demone  ,  the  N.  E.  portion;  the  Val  di  Nolo,  the  S.E.  part;  and  the  Val  di 
Mazzara.  to  the  S.W.  Since  1817  it  has  been  divided  into  seven  prefectures  : 
(I)  Palermo,  with  617,678  inhab.;  f2)  Trapani,  with  236,388;  (3)  Girgenti, 
with  289,018;  (4)  Caltanissetta,  with  230,066;  (5)  Catania,  with  495,415; 
(6)  Siracusa,  with  294,885;  (7)  Messina,  with  420.649  inhabitants. 

Towns.  The  principal  towns  are  Palermo,  Messina,  Catania,  Modica, 
Trapani,  Termini,  Acireale ,  and  Caltagirone.  Of  the  123  towns  in  the 
kingdom  of  Italy  which  contain  above  10,000  inhab.  upwards  of  one- 
quarter  belong  to  Sicily.  This  is  explained  by  the  fact,  that  owing  to  the 
constant  wars  of  the  middle  ages,  the  predatory  incursions  of  barbarians, 
and  the  insecure  state  of  the  country,  it  was  unsafe  for  the  peasantry  to 
live  in  villages,  and  this  class  has  therefore  mainly  contributed  to  swell 
the  population  of  the  towns. 

"Measures.  Besides  the  official  metre  the  following  standards  are  still 
used:  1  canna  =  6  palmi  =  2.065  metres  =  2l\\  yds.;  1  pal/no  =  12  once 
=  0.258  metre. 


Historical  Notice. 

1.     Political  History. 

First  Period.  According  to  the  traditions  of  ancient  Greek  mariners, 
Sicily  was  once  inhabited  by  Cyclopes,  Gigantes,  Lotophagi,  I.testry- 
gones,  etc.,  whom  Sicilian  historians  have  endeavoured  to  classify  into 
iron-workers,  farmers,  and  gardeners.  The  most  ancient  people  who  in- 
habited Sicily  appear  to  have  been  theElymi,  who  occupied  Egesta  (  Segesta), 
Eryx  (Monte  San  Giuliano)  with  the  harbour  of  Drepanum  (Trapani),  and 
Entella.  They  were  anciently  supposed  to  be  descended  from  the  Trojans, 
and  probably  belonged  to  the  great  Ligurian  race,  which  once  occupied  the 
greater  part  of  Italy.  They  were  supplanted  by  a  second  band  of  immi- 
grants, and  compelled  by  the  Sicani  to  confine  themselves  to  the  limited 
district  on  the  Eryx.  The  latter  are  believed  by  Humboldt  to  have  been 
of  Basque,  by  others  of  Celtic  origin.  It  is  more  probable,  however,  that 
they  belonged  to  an  Italian  race.  They,  too,  in  their  turn,  were  driven 
towards  the  \V.,  where  they  still  existed  within  the  limits  of  the  historical 
period,  e.  g.  at  Hykkara  (Carini).  The  deserted  territory  of  the  Sicani  on 
the  E.  coast  of  the  island  was  then  taken  possession  of  by  the  Sikeli 
(Siculi  =  reapers),  a  Latin  tribe  which  immigrated  from  the  mainland  at 
a  pre-historical  period.  Their  principal  towns  were:  Hadranum  (Aderno), 
Hybla  Minor  (PaternO),  Centnripae  (Centorbi),  Agyrium  (S.  Filippo  d'  Argiro), 
Assorus  (Assaro),  Herbila  (Nicosia),  Morganlia  (Mandribianchi) ,  Paliea 
(Palagonia) ,  Menaenam  (Mineo) ,  Kephaloedium  (C'efala) ,  Kalakte  (Ca- 
ronia),  etc.  With  these  Siculi  the  Greeks  afterwards  came  into  collision, 
when  they  began  to  found  their  colonies  on  the  E.  coast  of  the  island. 
At  an  earlier  period  indeed  Phoenicians  had  founded  settlements  on  the 
promontories  and  adjacent  islets,  and  disseminated  the  tenets  of  their  reli- 
gion ;  but  the  Greeks  were  the  first  who  demeaned  themselves  as  conquer- 
ors and  occupiers  of  the  soil,  after  Theocles  from  Athens  with  a  band  of 
emigrants  from  Chalcis  in  Eubcea  had,  B.  C.  735,  founded  Xaxos  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cantara  and  erected  an  altar  to  Apollo  Arehegetes.  During 
the  following  year  Dorians  from  Corinth  under  Archias  founded  Syracuse, 
and  four  years  later  (730)  Theocles  laid  the  foundations  of  Leontinoi  and 
Vatana,  after  (in  732)  Zancle-Messana  had  been  peopled  by  immigrants  from 


218 


SICILY.  Historical  Notice. 


Cyme  and  Chalcis.  In  728  Megara  Hyblaea  on  the  bay  of  Agosta  was 
founded  by  immigrants  from  Lamis,  in  690  Gela  (Terranova)  by  Rhodians 
and  Cretans,  in  G64  Acrae  (Palazzolo)  and  Enna  by  Syracuse,  in  648  Himera 
by  Zancle,  and  Seliiws  by  Megara  Hyblfea,  in  599  Camarina  near  Vittoria 
by  Syracuse,  in  5S2  Acragas  (Girgenti)  by  Gela.  These  dates  show  how 
rapidly  the  Hellenic  power  spread  over  Sicily,  and  how  incapable  the 
Sikeli,  separated  as  they  were  into  different  tribes,  must  have  been  of 
offering  effectual  resistance.  They  now  became  tributaries  of  the  Greeks,  and 
were  compelled  as  serfs  to  cultivate  the  land,  whilst  the  Greek  nobility,  the 
proprietors  of  the  soil  (gamoros)  ruled  in  the  cities.  But  about  the  middle  of 
the  Gth  cent,  the  Hellenisation  of  Sicily,  as  well  as  of  the  entire  \V.  basin  of 
the  Mediterranean,  experienced  a  check  in  consequence  of  the  close  alliance 
into  which  the  Italians  had  entered  with  Carthage.  The  Greek  colonies 
were  at  the  same  time  weakened  by  internal  political  dissension.  About  the 
year  500  we  find  tyrants  ruling  over  most  of  the  cities,  of  whom  Qelon  of 
Svracuse  and  Theron  of  Acragas,  united  by  ties  of  family  and  interest,  rescued 
the  Greek  sway  from  the  perils  which  threatened  it,  when,  contemporane- 
ously with  the  2nd  Persian  war,  the  Carthaginians  waged  war  against  the 
Greeks  of  the  western  sea.  The  battle  of  Himera  did  not  save  Himera 
alone.  The  short  but  brilliant  golden  age  of  Hellenic  Sicily  now  began, 
sullied  only  by  the  destruction  of  the  Chalcidian  towns  of  the  E.  coast 
by  Gelon  and  Hievo.  The  greater  number  of  the  temples,  aqueducts,  etc. 
at  Syracuse,  Girgenti,  Selinunto,  Himera  (Bonfornello),  etc.,  the  ruins  of 
which  excite  such  admiration  at  the  present  day,  arose  between  480  and 
450.  But  internal  municipal  struggles,  fomented  by  the  democratic  parties 
of  the  different  cities,  and  the  renewed  antagonism  of  the  Doric  and  Ionic- 
Achaean  elements  paved  the  way  for  a  catastrophe,  to  which  the  great 
Athenian  campaign  against  Syracuse  in  413  contributed.  Previously  to 
this  the  Greeks  had  had  a  formidable  enemy  to  subdue  in  Ducetins  of 
Netum  (Noto),  who  united  the  towns  of  the  Sikeli  in  a  confederacy  against 
the  (i reeks  (461-440),  but  this  league  was  compelled  to  succumb  to  the 
united  forces  of  Syracuse  and  Acragas.  What  the  Sicilians  had  failed  in 
effecting  was  now  attempted  with  more  success  by  the  great  power  of 
Africa.  After  the  battle  of  Himera  the  Africans  had  been  confined  to  the 
possession  of  Panormits  (Palermo),  Soloeis  (Solanto) ,  and  Motye  (Isola  di 
S.  Pantaleo) ,  but  they  now  overran  the  whole  island  with  a  numerous 
army.  Selinus  and  Himera  were  destroyed  by  them  in  409,  Acragas  taken 
in  406,  Gela  and  Camarina  conquered  and  rendered  tributary  to  Carthage 
in  405,  Messana  razed  to  the  ground  in  396.  These  events  were  instru- 
mental in  causing  the  rise  of  Dionysius  I.  in  Syracuse,  who  extended  and 
fortified  the  town,  and  after  a  war  of  varied  success  finally  drove  back  the 
Carthaginians  in  382  to  the  Halycus  (Platani).  Till  365  Dionysius  was 
master  of  the  destinies  of  Syracuse,  and  with  it  of  Sicily.  On  his  death 
dissensions  began  anew.  Dionysius  II.  was  inferior  to  his  father,  and  Dion 
able  as  a  philosopher  only.  Ti?noleon,  however,  succeeded  in  344-336  in 
restoring  some  degree  of  order,  defeated  the  Carthaginians  in  340  on  the 
Crimissus  (Fiume  Freddo),  and  restricted  their  territory  to  the  W.  of  the 
Halycus.  But  even  his  brilliant  example  availed  little  to  arrest  the  increasing 
degeneracy  of  the  people.  In  317-289  Agathocles  usurped  the  sovereignty  of 
Syracuse,  and  in  310  the  Carthaginians  besieged  the  city,  although  unsuc- 
cessfully. Pyrrhus  too,  who  had  wrested  the  whole  island  as  far  as  Lily- 
baeum  from  the  Carthaginians,  soon  quitted  it  again  for  Italy  (278-276), 
dissatisfied  with  the  prevailing  anarchy  and  disunion.  In  274  Hiero  II. 
usurped  the  tyranny  of  Syracuse.  His  siege  of  Messana,  of  which  Cam- 
panian  mercenaries,  or  Mamertines,  had  treacherously  taken  possession, 
compelled  the  latter  to  sue  for  Roman  aid.  Thus  it  was  that  the  Romans 
obtained  a  footing  in  the  island,  and  the  struggle  between  them  and  the 
Carthaginians,  who  had  supported  Hiero,  now  began.  The  chequered 
contest  for  the  sovereignty  of  Sicily  lasted  from  264  to  241.  Hiero,  who 
in  263  had  become  an  ally  of  Rome,  was  now  invested  with  the  partial 
sovereignty  of  the  island,  which  was  divided  between  Rome  and  Syracuse 
after  the  linal  expulsion  of  the  Carthaginians.  After  the  death  of  Hiero  II. 
his  successor  Jliii  onifmus  espoused  the  c.-iuse  of  Hannibal,    in  consequence 


Historical  Notice.  SICILY.  219 

of  which  Syracuse  was  besieged  by  Marcellus  in  214-212,  taken,  ami  sacked. 
In  210,  after  the  conquest  of  Agrigentum,  the  island  became  the  first 
Roman  province,  and  was  divided  into  two  districts  or  qutesturse,  Lilybetana 
(with  the  capital  Lilybveum,  now  Marsala)  and  Syracasana. 

Second  Period.  At  first  the  Romans  endeavoured  to  improve  the  agri- 
culture of  the  island  which  had  suffered  seriously  during  the  protracted  wars, 
with  a  view  to  render  Sicily  a  more  profitable  province.  The  system  of 
cultivation  borrowed  from  the  Carthaginians  was  indeed  successfully  em- 
ployed in  rendering  Sicily  the  granary  of  Italy,  but  at  the  same  time  it 
proved  the  occasion  of  the  Servile  Wars  (135-132  and  103-100),  which 
devastated  the  island  to  a  greater  extent  than  the  Punic  wars.  Under  the 
Roman  governors  the  ancient  prosperity  of  Sicily  steadily  declined.  The 
notorious  Yerres  despoiled  the  island  of  its  most  costly  treasures  of  art  in 
73-70.  The  civil  war  between  Secctus  Poinpeiua  and  Octavianus  ,  especially 
that  of  42-36,  also  accelerated  its  ruin,  so  that  Augustus  was  obliged  in 
a  great  measure  to  repeople  the  island  and  re-erect  the  towns.  But  its 
prosperity  was  irrevocably  gone.  With  regard  to  the  dissemination  of 
Christianity  in  Sicily  numerous  traditions  are  current,  and  are  preserved  in 
the  different  martyrologies.  It  is  recorded  (Acts  xxviii.  12)  that  St.  Paul 
landed  at  Syracuse  on  his  journey  to  Rome  and  spent  three  days  there,  but 
the  ultimate  establishment  of  Christianity  appears  to  have  emanated  from 
Rome,  and  to  have  been  the  occasion  subsequently  of  several  martyrdoms. 
Numerous  Christian  martyrs  suffered  at  Lentini ,  notwithstanding  which 
the  new  religion  spread  rapidly  over  the  island  about  the  middle  of  the 
3rd  cent.,  so  that  the  Neoplatonic  Porphyrins,  who  spent  a  considerable 
time  in  Sicily,  and  his  pupil  Probus  of  Lilybfflum  wrote  their  refutations 
in  vain.  Constantine,  however,  was  the  first  who  formally  sanctioned 
Christianity  in  the  island.  As  lately  as  the  6th  cent,  heathens  still  existed 
here,  and  the  Paulicians  found  adherents  at  a  still  later  date.  It  is  now, 
however,  the  boast  of  the  Sicilians  that  their  island  has  never  pro- 
duced a  prominent  heretic,  and  in  1860  the  minister  of  ecclesiastical  affairs 
expressed  his  approval  of  the  unity  of  the  Sicilians  in  matters  of  religion. 
The  Spanish  inquisition  found  but  few  victims  here.  The  Sicilian  of  the 
present  day  is,  however,  far  from  being  intolerant,  while  the  majority  of 
the  educated  classes  are  generally  indifferent  with  regard  to  these  questions. 

After  another  servile  war  had  devastated  the  country  (A.D.  259), 
Syracuse  began,  in  2TS,  to  suffer  from  the  incursions  of  barbarian  hordes, 
when  it  was  plundered  by  a  mere  handful  of  wandering  Franks.  In 
B.  C.  27  Sicily  had  become  the  first  of  the  ten  senatorial  provinces,  accord- 
ing to  Augustus1  distribution  of  the  empire,  then  a  province  of  the  diocese 
of  Italy,  according  to  the  arrangement  of  Diocletian,  but  in  395  it  was 
separated  from  the  W.  and  attached  to  the  E.  empire,  whereby  it  escaped 
the  fate  of  neither.  In  440  Geiserich  besieged  Palermo  and  conquered 
Lilybseum  (Marsala),  and  the  Ostrogoths  took  possession  of  the  island, 
whence  they  were  again  expelled  by  Belisarius  (535).  Pope  Gregory  I. 
manifested  a  zealous  interest  in  promoting  the  civilisation  of  the  island. 
Constans  II.  even  transferred  the  seat  of  the  E.  empire  to  Syracuse  in  663, 
but  he  was  murdered  there  in  668,  and  the  city  was  plundered  by  the 
Arabs  the  following  year. 

Third  Period.  In  827  the  Saracens,  under  Ased-ibn-Forrdt,  on  the  in- 
vitation of  the  governor  Euphemius,  landed  near  Mazzara.  Three  years  later 
Palermo  fell  into  their  hands,  and  that  city  now  became  the  capital,  and 
swayed  the  destinies  of  the  island.  The  Saracens,  conquering  one  city  after 
another,  overran  the  whole  island,  and  in  878  Syracuse  was  taken  by  Ibrahim- 
ibn-Ahmed.  Although  the  Christians  could  now  maintain  themselves  in  the 
N.  E.  angle  of  the  island  only,  and  even  there  were  deprived  of  Taormina 
in  901,  and  finally  of  Rametta  in  965,  yet  the  establishment  of  a  lasting 
peace  was  rendered  impossible  by  their  unalterable  antagonism  to  their  Ara- 
bian and  barbarian  conquerors,  which  continually  led  to  sanguinary  con- 
Uicts.  To  these  evils  were  added  the  changes  of  dynasty.  At  first  the 
Aghlabites  of  Kairvan  ruled.  Then  Sicily  became  an  independent  emirate 
under  the  FaHmite  Sovereigns  of  Kgypt.  The  latter  half  of  the  10th  cent, 
was  the  most   prosperous    period  of  Sicily    under   the  Mohammedan  sway. 


220  SICILY.  Historical  Notice. 

[ ; 1 1 1  the  sanguinary  struggles  of  theSunnit.es  and  Shyites  in  Africa,  where 
the  Zirites  had  usurped  the  supremacy,  were  soon  transplanted  hither,  and 
the  insurrection  of  several  cities  accelerated  the  downfall  of  the  Arabian 
dynasty.  In  spite  of  these  unfavourable  circumstances,  the  prosperity  of 
the  island  had  during  this  period  considerably  increased,  and  agriculture, 
industry,  and  commerce  had  progressed  so  greatly  that  the  Norman  con- 
querors found  the  island  a  most  valuable  acquisition. 

About  the  middle  of  the  11th  cent.  Robert  and  Roger  de  Hauleville, 
sons  of  Tancred  of  Hauteville  in  Normandy,  went  to  Italy  on  the  in- 
vitation of  their  elder  brothers,  who  had  declared  themselves  Counts 
of  Apulia.  Robert,  subsequently  surnamed  Guiscard ,  i.e.  'the  Shrewd', 
compelled  the  pope  to  invest  him  with  the  Duchy  of  Apulia,  and  then, 
after  Ihn-Thimna  of  Syracuse  had  already  invoked  his  aid,  proceeded 
from  Mileto  with  his  brother  Roger  to  conquer  Sicily  in  1061.  The 
first  expedition  did  not  immediately  produce  the  desired  result.  But 
ten  years  later  they  returned,  and  by  1090  the  entire  island  was  sub- 
dued. The  line  of  Robert  Guiscard  having  become  extinct  in  1127, 
the  second  son  of  Roger  (Rvggiero)  united  the  whole  of  the  Norman  con- 
quests under  his  sceptre,  and  caused  himself  to  be  crowned  as  king  at 
Palermo  in  1130.  During  his  reign  Sicily  prospered,  and  its  fleets  con- 
quered the  Arabs  and  the  Greeks,  from  whom  they  wrested  a  portion 
of  ancient  Greece  (Romania).  He  was  succeeded  by  his  second  son  William 
(1154-1166),  surnamed  by  the  monkish  and  feudal  chroniclers  Hhe  Bad\ 
who  was  followed  by  his  son  William  II.  'the  ffoocf  (d.  1189).  After  the 
death  of  the  latter  a  contest  as  to  the  succession  arose.  William  II.  had 
given  his  aunt  Constance,  daughter  of  Roger,  to  Henry  VI.,  son  of  Frederick 
Barbarossa  in  marriage,  and  that  monarch  now  laid  claim  to  the  crown. 
The  Sicilians,  however,  declared  themselves  in  favour  of  Tancred,  a  natural 
son  of  Roger.  On  his  death  shortly  afterwards  he  was  succeeded  by  his 
son  William,  III.,  whom  Henry  VI.  had  less  difficulty  in  subduing  (1194). 
Henry  did  not  long  enjoy  his  conquest,  and  died  at  Messina  in  1197.  He 
was  succeeded  by  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.,  as  Frederick  I.  of  Sicily, 
whose  exertions  in  behalf  of  Sicily  have  been  so  highly  extolled  by  posterity. 
In  1250-54  his  second  son  Conrad  occupied  the  throne;  then  Manfred 
until  the  battle  ofBenevento  in  1266;  and  in  1268  Charles  of  Anjou  caused 
the  last  scion  of  the  Germanic  imperial  house  to  be  executed  (see  p.  45). 
Fouiith  Pkkiod.  Charles  of  Anjou  and  Provence  maintained  his  su- 
premacy in  Sicily,  with  which  he  had  been  invested  by  Pope  Clement  IV., 
for  but  a  brief  period.  The  massacre  of  the  Sicilian  Vespers  (1282)  was  an 
expiation  of  the  death  of  Conradin.  Messina  defended  itself  heroically 
against  the  attacks  of  Charles  ;  and  Peter  of  Arragon,  son-in-law  of  Manfred, 
became  master  of  the  island.  But  its  decline  dates  from  this  period.  It 
was  repeatedly  devastated  by  the  interminable  wars  with  the  Anjous  of 
Naples,  and  the  nobility  attained  to  such  power  as  to  render  systematic 
administration  on  the  part  of  the  government  impossible.  In  1410,  when 
Sicily  became  an  appanage  of  the  kingdoms  of  Naples  and  Spain,  it  still 
retained  a  semblance  of  independence  in  its  continued  freedom  of  internal 
administration.  But  this  very  privilege  proved  prejudicial  to  it,  whilst  its 
external  defence  against  the  barbarians  was  neglected.  In  1812  Sicily  was 
at  length  rescued  from  the  condition  of  a  purely  mediaeval  feudal  state,  but 
only  to  experience  once  more  (1815-1860)  the  evils  of  a  despotic  govern- 
ment. The  following  is  a  chronological  sketch  of  the  history  of  this  period 
of  six  centuries  :  — 
a.    1282-1285.     Peter  of  Arragon,  King  of  Sicily. 

1285-1296.     James  the  Just. 

1296-1337.     Frederick  II. 

1337-1342.     Peter  II.,  co-regent  from   1321. 

1342-1355.     Louis. 

1355-1377.     Frederick  III.  the  Simple,  brother  of  Louis. 

1377-14U2.     Mary,  daughter  of  Frederick  III.,  married  in  1485  to  Martin 
of  Arragon. 

1402-111)9.     J'artin    I.    sole    monarch    of   Sicily,    married    to    Bianca    of 
Castille. 


History  of  Art.  SICILY.  221 

1409-1410.  Martin  II.,  father  of  Martin  I. 

1410-1412.  Interregnum. 

b.  1412-1416.  Ferdinand  the  Just,  King  of  Arragon  and  Castille. 
1416-1458.  Alphonso  the  Generous,  King  of  Arragon,  and  after  144*2  King 

of  Naples. 

1458-1479.  John  of  Arragon  and  Navarre. 

1479-1515.  Ferdinand  II.  the  Catholic,   after  1505  also  King  of  Xaplc. 

1515-1554.  Erap.  Charles  V. 

1.554-1598.  Philip  II. 

1598-1621.  Philip  III. 

1621-1665.  Philip  IV. ;  1647,  Revolution  at  Palermo,  Giuseppe  Alessi. 

1665-1700.  Charles    II.;     1672-1678,     Messina    revolted     in     favour    of 

Louis  XIV.  of  France. 

1700-1713.  Philip  V.  of  Bourbon,  after  1713  King  of  Spain. 

1713-1720.  Victor  Amadeus  of  Savoy. 

1720-1734.  Erap.  Charles  VI.  of  Germany. 

c.  1734-1759.  Charles  III.  of  Bourbon. 

1759-1806.  Ferdinand  IV.,  King  of  Naples  and  Sicily,  married  to  Caro- 
line, the  profligate  daughter  of  Maria  Theresa,  was  com- 
pelled in  1798  to  fly  from  Naples  to  Sicily  before  the  French 
under  Championnet,  and  again  in  1806. 

d.  1806-1815.    Ferdinand  IV.   sole  King  of  Sicily.     Through  the  influence 

of  William  Bentinck  the  constitution  of  Sicily  was  estab- 
lished and  a  parliament  summoned  (1812). 

1815-1825.  Ferdinand  IV.  reigned  as  Ferdinand  I.,  'King  of  the  two 
Sicilies'.  The  constitution  subverted.  1820,  Revolution  at 
Palermo  and  throughout  the  island  for  the  restoration  of 
the  constitution. 

1825-1830.     Francis  I. 

1830-1859.  Ferdinand  II.;  1837,  cholera-revolution;  1848-49,  Sicily 
ruled  by  a  temporary  government,  parliament  at  Palermo  ; 
bombardment  of  Messina. 

1859-1860.     Francis  II. 

Fifth  Perioo  : 
1860-  Victor  Emmanuel,  King  of  Italy  :  11th  May,   Garibaldi  landed 

at  Marsala;  15th  May,  battle  of  Calatafimi ;  27th  Slay,  cap- 
ture of  Palermo;  20th  July,  Battle  of  Milazzo.  —  Since 
September,  1860,  Sicily  has  been  incorporated  with  the 
Kingdom  of  Italy,  and,  notwithstanding  the  still  prevailing 
brigandism  and  the  insurrection  of  1866  at  Palermo,  bids 
fair  to  become  more  prosperous  than  at  any  period  of  its 
past  history. 


2.     History  of  Civilisation  and  Art. 

Almost  every  one  of  the  numerous  nations  which  in  the  course  of 
centuries  have  inhabited  or  governed  Sicily  has  left  behind  it  some  trace 
of  its  individual  capacity  for  art,  modified,  however,  lo  some  extent  by 
the  characteristics  peculiar  to  the  island,  and  therefore  in  most  cases  bear- 
ing a  Sicilian  stamp.  Cicero  has  observed  that  the  Sicilian  is  never  so 
miserable  as  to  be  unable  to  utter  a  bon-mot,  and  a  similar  remark  might 
be  made  at  the  present  day.  The  Sicilians  of  all  ages  have  displayed 
marked,  though  not  brilliant  abilities.  Their  wit,  flow  of  conversation,  and 
power  of  repartee  were  universally  known  to  the  ancients.  It  was  not, 
therefore  the  result  of  mere  chance  that  Greek  comedy  attained  iU  earliest 
development  here,  and  that  bucolic  poetry  originated'  in  Sicily,  where  to 
this  day  the  natives  delight  in  rural  life.  Sicily  has  in  all  ages  produced 
admirable  speakers,  although  rather  sophists  and  phraseologists  than  great 
orators.  In  the  study  of  the  history  of  their  island  the  natives  have  ever 
manifested  the  utmost  zeal,  and  for  the  concrete  sciences  as  far  as  I  lie)  are 
connected  with  practical  life,  such  as  mechanic?  and  medicine,  tliey  puacss 


2  2 2  SICILY .  History  of  Art. 

considerable  aptitude.  In  the  manufacture  of  objects  of  an  artistic  character 
(in  opposition  to  purr  works  of  art),  as  in  architecture,  the  art  of  engraving, 
the  composition  of  mosaics,  etc.,  the  Sicilians  have  from  a  very  early 
period  distinguished  themselves. 

The  monuments  of  Sikelian  culture  of  the  pre-Hellenic  period  still 
preserved  in  Sicily,  although  far  move  scanty  than  the  Greek,  merit  a 
move  minute  investigation  than  has  hitherto  fallen  to  their  share.  Of 
these  the  most  important  are;  the  Subterranean  Cities  with  which  the  S. 
E.  angle  of  the  island  is  replete  ,  the  so-called  Didievi  of  Val  dTspica, 
Palazzolo,  Pantelica,  etc.,  the  Tombs  of  Phoenician  (?)  immigrants  at  Palaz- 
zolo  with  remarkable  reliefs,  the  Phoenician  Burial  Vaults  near  Solanto, 
which  may  be  regarded  as  catacombs  in  their  infancy,  the  Polygonal  Struc- 
tures at  Cefalii,  and  the  colossal  ruins  on  Monte  Artesirto  near  Leonibrte. 

The  Metopes  of  Selinus,  mementoes  of  the  most  ancient  style,  form  the 
transition  to  the  Hellenic  sculpture.  Some  of  the  most  magnificent 
Greek  temples  still  extant  have  been  erected  in  Sicily:  Temple  of  Zeus  at 
Selimts  376  ft.  long,  177  ft.  broad;  Temple  of  Zeus  at  Girgenti  356  ft.  long, 
174  broad  (Parthenon  at  Athens  229  ft.  by  101  ft.;  Temple  of  Zeus  at 
Olympia  233  ft.  bv  97  ft.;  Temple  of  Apollo  at  Phigalia  195  ft.  by 
75  ft.  Temple  of  Diana  at  Ephcsus  388  ft.  by  187  ft.).  The  Ruined  Tem- 
ples at  Girgenti,  Segesta,  Selinunto,  Syracuse,  and  Himera  are  nowhere 
surpassed.  The  Theatres  of  Syracuse,  Taormina,  Segesta,  Tyndaris,  Pa- 
lazzolo, and  Catania  have  indeed  been  somewhat  modified  by  additions 
during  the  Roman  period,  but  the  Greek  origin  of  their  foundations  and 
arrangements  may  easily  be  recognised.  The  fortifications  of  the  Epipolae 
of  Syracuse  are  the  best  existing  specimens  of  Greek  structures  of  the  kind. 
In  the  province  of  Sculpture  comparatively  few  Greek  works  have  come  down 
to  us.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned  the  more  recent  metopse  of  Selinus 
in  the  museum  at  Palermo,  and  a  few  relics  preserved  at  Syracuse.  Of  Bron- 
zes, in  the  casting  of  which  Perilaos  of  Agrigentum  and  P/rthagoras  ofLen- 
tini  excelled,  scarcely  a  single  specimen  has  survived.  On  the  other  hand 
a  copious  collection  of  the  finest  ancient  Coins  in  the  world  has  come  down 
to  us.  Beautiful  Vases  are  likewise  found  in  almost  every  part  of  the 
island.  The  climax  of  the  prosperity  of  the  Sicilian  Greeks  was  contem- 
poraneous with  that  of  their  mother-country.  This  is  not  proved  by  their 
architecture  alone.  About  the  year  550,  Sfesichorus  of  Himera  perfected 
the  Greek  chorus  by  the  addition  of  the  epode  to  the  strophe  and 
antistrophe.  uEschylun  resided  long  in  Sicily,  where  he  died  (456),  and 
was  interred  at  Gela.  Pindar,  Sappho,  and  Alcaeus  also  enjoyed  the  hos- 
pitality of  Sicily,  and  sang  the  praises  of  the  victories  of  her  sons  at 
Olympia.  Simon-ides  composed  appropriate  lines  for  the  gift  dedicated  to 
the  gods  by  Gelon  after  the  battle  of  Himera  in  480.  Phormis,  an  officer 
of  Gelon  at  Syracuse,  who  invented  movable  scenes,  Epieharmus  in  480, 
Sophron  in  460,  and  Xeuarehiis  in  460  distinguished  themselves  in  the  com- 
position of  comedies.  Nothing  is  more  characteristic  of  the  Sicilian  enthu- 
siasm for  art  than  the  story  that  the  Syracusans  once  set  at  liberty  several 
Athenian  prisoners,  who  were  languishing  in  the  latomise  (or  quarries  in 
which  captives  were  condemned  to  labour),  because  they  knew  how  to  recite 
the  verses  of  Euripides  with  pathos.  Even  during  the  period  of  decline 
the  national  poetical  bias  was  still  pre-eminent,  and  gave  birth  to  a  new 
description  of  poetry,  the  idyls,  in  which  their  inventor  Theocritus  of 
Syracuse  was  unsurpassed,  and  which  even  in  modern  times  have  found 
numerous  admirers. 

The  Sicilians  have  never  manifested  much  capacity  for  philosophical 
research,  although  not  entirely  without  faste  for  studies  of  this  nature. 
Puthagoras  found  followers  here.  Xenopitanes  of  Elea  died  in  Syracuse 
at  an  advanced  age.  Plato  thrice  visited  Syracuse.  But  the  most  illustri- 
ous Sicilian  thinker  was  Empedoeles  of  A  era  gas,  distinguished  as  a  natural 
philosopher,  and  also  as  a  practical  statesman,  physician,  architect,  and 
orator.  The  names  of  a  number  of  eminent  physicians  are  recorded: 
Pattsanias,  Aeron,  Herodicvs,  and  Menerrates,  and  the  famous  Celsus  was 
also  ;i   Sicilian,  born    at    Centurippc.      Distinguished    historians    were:    An- 


History  of  Art.  SICILY.  223 

liochus,  Philislits  of  Syracuse,  Titnaeits  of  Taormina,  Dkaearchits  of  Messana, 
and  the  learned  Diodorus  (Sicvlus)  of  Agyrium,  who  wrote  his  celebrated 
Bibliotheca  Historica  in  the  reign  of  Augustus.  The  most  brilliant,  of  the 
numerous  orators  were  Co  rax  and  Thisias,  teacher  of  Isocrates,  Gorgias, 
and  Lysias  (Gorgias,  the  celebrated  Greek  sophist  and  orator,  was  a  native 
of  Leontinoi,  and  Lysias  was  the  son  of  a  Syracusan).  Among  the  ma- 
thematicians and  mechanicians  Archimedes  was  the  most  distinguished. 
JYicctas  of  Syracuse  was  one  of  the  first  who  taught  that  the  earth  moved 
and  the  sun  remained  stationary.  Of  theoretical  musicians  Aristoocenus  of 
SeJinus  deserves  mention. 

The  Roman-Byzantine  supremacy  gave  the  death-blow  to  the  intellec- 
tual progress  of  the  Sicilians.  The  soldier  who  slew  Archimedes  may  be 
regarded  as  symbolical  of  this  epoch.  No  architectural  remains,  save  a  few 
amphitheatres,  theatres,  and  aqueducts,  date  from  this  period.  The  rapacity 
of  Verres  and  other  governors  despoiled  the  island  of  countless  treasures 
of  art.  New  works  were  not  undertaken.  The  Christians  possessed,  no 
churches,  but  employed  the  catacombs  for  sacred  purposes.  A  single  Byzan- 
tine church  of  small  dimensions  near  Malvagna  alone  remains  from  this 
period.  A  proof  of  the  abject  condition  to  which  Sicily  had  sunk  is  the 
circumstance  that  down  to  a  late  period  of  the  Mussulman  supremacy  not 
a  single  author  of  eminence  arose,  although  crowds  of  monks  and  priests 
resided  in  the  island.  Theophanes  Cerameus  (842)  and  Petrus  Siculus,  the 
historian  of  the  Manichscans,  alone  deserve  mention.  The  wandering  San 
Simeon  of  Syracuse  died  at  Treves. 

The  Arabs  were  the  first  to  infuse  new  life  into  the  island.  They  not 
only  enriched  the  architectural  art  with  new  forms  of  construction,  as 
mentioned  below,  but  they  also  inaugurated  a  new  era  in  the  writing  of 
history  and  geography ,  and  under  King  Ruggiero  the  first  mediaeval 
geographer  Edrisi  completed  his  great  work  (Nushat-ul-Mushtak).  Among 
the  Mohammedan  Kasides  (poets)  Ibn-Hamdis  was  the  most  distinguished. 
Art  developed  itself  to  a  still  greater  extent  under  the  JS'orman  rule,  and 
the  princes  and  great  men  of  that  race  have  perpetuated  their  names  by 
the  erection  of  numerous  cathedrals.  The  importance  they  attached  to 
learning  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  they  were  in  the  habit  of  sum- 
moning the  most  learned  men  of  the  East  (e.  g.  Petrus  Blesensis)  to  in- 
struct their  young  princes.  Whilst  the  Arabs  deserve  commendation  for 
the  introduction  of  the  most  valuable  commercial  products  (grain,  cotton, 
sumach,  etc.)  which  the  island  possesses,  the  Xurman  princes  established 
the  manufacture  of  silk  \  and  a  school  for  the  arts  of  weaving  and 
the  composition  of  mosaic  was  maintained  in  the  royal  palace.  The  bril- 
liant reign  of  Frederick  II.,  his  legislative  merits,  and  his  zealous  promotion 
of  every  art  and  science  are  well  known.  At  his  court  at  Palermo  the 
Italian  language  developed  itself  so  as  to  become  a  written  language,  and 
his  counsellors,  his  sons,  and  even  he  himself  made  the  first  attempts  at 
Italian  poetry.  Of  Frederick  II. ,  Manfred,  Enzius,  Ciullo  of  Alcamo,  Peter 
de  Vineis,  Guido  delle  Colonne,  Stefano,  Mazeo  da  Iiiccho  of  Messina,  llai- 
nieri  of  Palermo,  Arrigo  Testa  of  Lentini,  etc.  poems  are  still  preserved 
to  us.  But  this  golden  age  was  of  brief  duration.  Amid  the  vicissitudes 
of  subsequent  centuries  all  intellectual  superiority  became  extinct.  Kven 
the  chroniclers  manifest  distinct  traces  of  this  degeneracy.  Whilst  well 
written  and  interesting  chronicles  of  Sicily  were  composed  in  the  13th 
century  (Hvgo  Falcando,  Neocastro,  etc.),  those  of  a  later  period  are  almost 
unreadable.  The  revival  of  classical  studies,  however,  at  length  roused 
literature  from  its  inert  condition.  At  the  close  of  t lie  loth  cent. 
Messina  distinguished  itself  by  its  promotion  of  Greek  studies.  Here  Con- 
stant ine.  Lascaris  taught,  and  Bessarion  was  archimandrite.  The  following 
century  produced  the  learned  and  indefatigable  Thomas  Fasetlo  of  Sciacca 
(d.  1570),  the  originator  of  Sicilian  history  and  topography.  His  work 
was  completed  by  the  historian  Maurolycvs  of  Messina. 

The  enlightened  absolutism  of  the  Bourbons  during  the  last  century 
tended  to  promote  the  progress  of  science  in  Sicily,  although  the  attention 
of  scholars  was  principally  directed  to  arelmological  research  relating  to 
the  history  of  the  island.     The  wealthier  of  the  nobility  formed  collections 


224  STCILY.  History  of  Art. 

of  antiquities  and  wrote  descriptions  of  them  (Biscari,  Torremuzza>  Astuto^ 
Judica,  Airoldiy  Gaetani,  etc.)-  The  clergy  collected  materials  for  the  history 
of  Sicily,  and  others  composed  detailed  monographs  on  the  subject.  The 
talented  'polyhistor*1  Mongitore  had  been  preceded  by  the  eminent  Antonino 
da  Arnica,  Rocco  Pirro,  Agostino  Inveges,  and  Giovanni  Battista  Caruso,  and, 
whilst  still  engaged  in  study,  died  suddenly  in  1743,  at  the  advanced  age 
of  80.  Di  Giovanni,  Francesco  Testay  Rosario  Gregorio,  and  the  brothers  Gio- 
vanni Evangelista  and  Salvatoro  di  Blasi,  form  a  series  of  historians  of  the 
last  century  who  would  have  done  credit  to  any  nation.  The  art  of 
poetry  also  revived,  and  found  its  most  talented  representative  in  the  poet 
of  nature,  Giovanni  Meli  of  Palermo  (d.  1815).  His  anacreontic  songs  in 
the  national  dialect  were  universally  popular  even  before  they  appeared 
in  a  printed  form.  Among  the  most  distinguished  scientific  men  of  the 
present  century  may  be  mentioned  Domenico  Scina^  the  naturalist  and  his- 
torian of  literature,  the  astronomer  Piazzi  (born,  however,  in  the  Yal  Tel- 
lina  in  N.  Italy),  the  brothers  Gemellaro,  and  the  patriotic  historian  Giuseppe 
Lafarina,  besides  a  number  of  living  savants  of  whom  the  island  can  at 
present  boast. 


With  regard  to  ancient  art  in  Sicily,  and  particularly  the  sculptures 
of  Selinunto  ,  see  p.  237  et  seq.  We  may  now  add  a  few  remarks  upon 
the  principal  mediaeval  and  modern  monuments  of  art. 

Architecture.  The  mediaeval  architecture  of  Sicily,  and  particularly 
that  of  Palermo,  bears  the  impress  of  the  political  destinies  of  the  country 
in  a  very  striking  degree,  showing  the  change  from  the  Byzantine  to  the 
Arabian  domination,  and  from  the  latter  to  the  supremacy  of  the  Nor- 
mans. The  style  is  accordingly  of  a  very  mixed  character ,  which  strict 
connoisseurs  will  not  fail  to  censure,  but  it  possesses  great  attractions  for 
the  less  scientific  lover  of  art.  The  leading  element  is  the  Arabian. 
After  the  overthrow  of  the  Arabian  supremacy  the  more  refined  culture 
of  that  race  left  its  traces  on  the  island  ,  and  the  Norman  princes  found 
it  desirable  to  avail  themselves  of  its  services  in  the  administration  of 
the  country  and  particularly  in  the  province  of  art.  The  Arabian  culture, 
however,  was  in  its  turn  considerably  swayed  by  Byzantine  influences, 
and  it  is  therefore  not  surprising  that  these  again  should  be  reflected  in 
the  Sicilian  architecture  of  the  12th  century.  The  ground-plan  of  many 
of  the  churches  of  Palermo  is  traceable  to  Byzantine  originals,  viz.  a 
square  space  enclosed  by  four  pillars  and  covered  with  a  dome.  It  is 
uncertain  whether  this  form  was  introduced  direct  from  Byzantium  after 
the  final  triumph  of  Christian  culture,  or  whether  the  Arabs  had  already 
employed  it  in  the  construction  of  their  numerous  little  oratories  (of 
which  Ibn  Hankal,  an  Arabian  traveller  of  the  10th  cent.,  says  that  there 
were  hundreds  at  Palermo  alone),  and  handed  it  down  to  their  Norman 
successors.  The  latter  alternative,  however,  is  the  more  probable.  While 
the  plan  of  many  churches,  such  as  Martorana,  8.  Cataldo,  and  S.  Antonio 
at  Palermo  is  Byzantine,  and  that  of  others,  like  Monreale,  S,  Spirito, 
and  several  abbey-churches  at  Palermo,  and  the  cathedral  at  Cefalit  is 
Romanesque,  the  universally  prevalent  pointed  arch  is  of  Arabian  origin, 
and  quite  distinct  from  the  Gothic  form.  The  Arabs  brought  it  from 
Kgypt  and  used  it  in  all  their  buildings,  and  they  also  derived  thence 
the  custom  of  adorning  their  flat  ceilings  with  pendentives,  resembling 
stalactites,  and  their  friezes  with  inscriptions.  While  the  ecclesiastical 
architecture  of  Sicily  was  thus  unable  to  resist  the  Arabian  influence, 
that  of  her  palaces  still  possesses  a  distinctly  Arabian  character,  cor- 
responding with  the  Oriental  complexion  of  the  Norman  court.  Of  the 
numerous  palaces  which  are  said  to  have  encircled  Palermo  in  the  12th 
crnt.,  we  now  possess  imperfect  examples  only  in  the  Zisa  and  the  Cuba 
(and  in  the  relics  of  the  chateaux  of  Mimnermum  at  Altarello  di  Baida 
and  Farara  at  Mare  Dolce),  so  that  it  requires  a  considerable  effort 
of  imagination  to  picture  their  vaunted  magnificence.  Sicily  possesses 
no  (lot hie  churches  of  any  note  (S.  Francesco  and  S.  Agostino  at  Palermo 
and    the    cathedral  at   Messina)^    hut    it    is  curious    to   observe  how  tenaci- 


History  of  Art.  SICILY.  225 

ously  her  architects  clung  to  Gothic  and  other  mediaeval  forms  down  to  a 
late  period  in  the  Renaissance  epoch.  Of  the  later  mediaeval  secular 
architecture   we  find  many  pleasing  examples,    especially    at  Palermo. 

Sculpture.  In  the  plastic  art,  in  so  far  as  it  rises  above  a  merely 
decorative  purpose,  mediaeval  Sicily  attained  little  proficiency.  The  princi- 
pal works  in  bronze  (the  gates  at  Monreale)  are  not  the  work  of  native 
masters.  Sculpturing  in  marble  for  decorative  purposes,  on  the  other 
hand,  was  extensively  and  successfully  practised  here  at  an  early  period. 
The  capitals  and  a  few  shafts  of  columns  in  the  monastery-court  of 
Monreale  are  among  the  finest  works  of  the  kind  in  Italy.  The  early 
Sicilian  Wood  Carving ,  sometimes  adorned  with  arabesques,  which  is  still 
frequently  met  with  (as  at  Martorana),  is  of  remarkably  fine  execution. 
Another  proof  of  the  great  skill  of  the  Sicilian  artificers  is  afforded  by 
the  Porphyry  Sarcophagi  of  the  Norman  princes  and  German  emperors  in 
the  cathedral  at  Palermo,  and  by  the  numerous  Marble  Incrustations  and 
Marble  Mosaics  of  the  12th  century.  The  mural  covering  of  the  Cappella 
Palatina  and  Martorana,  and  the  mosaic  decorations  of  the  monastery 
court  of  Monreale  will  bear  favourable  comparison  with  the  finest  works 
of  the  Roman  sculptors  in  marble  and  the  members  of  the  Cosmas  school. 
Mosaic  painting  was  also  highly  developed  in  the  12th  century.  The 
mosaics  in  the  cathedral  at  Cefalit  and  in  the  Cappella  Palatina,  and 
those  in  the  Martorana  and  at  Monreale,  which  have  been  preserved 
from  decay  by  repeated  restorations,  are  not  all  of  uniform  value,  but 
even  those  which  show  less  vigour  of  conception  display  the  boldness 
of  touch  and  finish  of  execution  peculiar  to  able  and  experienced  masters. 
As  such  artificers  cannot  possibly  have  sprung  up  under  Arabian  rule, 
we  must  assume  that  the  earlier  of  the  works  to  which  we  have  referred 
were  executed  by  Byzantine  artists  invited  to  Sicily  from  foreign  coun- 
tries, and  that  these  masters  then  transmitted  their  art  to  native  succes- 
sors. At  a  later  period ,  after  the  extinction  of  the  Norman  princes, 
Sicilian  art  fell  far  behind  that  of  the  mainland.  Even  during  the  Re- 
naissance period  Sicily  made  no  independent  exertion ,  her  cultivation  of 
art  being  but  a  slow  and  hesitating  adoption  of  that  of  Rome  and  Naples. 
The  most  famous  name  connected  with  Renaissance  sculpture  at  Palermo 
is  that  of  Oagini.  For  three  generations  the  Gaginfs  were  sculptors  in 
marble.  Antonio  Gagini,  born  in  1480,  is  said  to  have  studied  the  art 
under  Michael  Angelo  at  Rome,  and  to  him  and  his  sons  are  referred  all 
the  finest  works  in  marble  of  the  16th  cent,  at  Palermo. 

Painting.  The  history  of  this  art  in  Sicily ,  although  it  has  been 
the  object  of  zealous  local  research,  has  not  yet  been  placed  on  a  satis- 
factory critical  basis.  Since  the  14th  cent. ,  however ,  the  island  has 
produced  several  painters  of  considerable  eminence.  To  the  14th  cent, 
belongs  Camulio,  who  manifestly  sprang  from  the  school  of  the  mosaicists, 
and  possesses  no  very  marked  individuality.  In  the  15th  cent,  flourished 
Antonio  Crescenzio,  whose  frescoes  in  the  Spedale  Grande  enjoyed  great 
celebrity ;  but  one  of  these  is  unfortunately  destroyed ,  while  slight 
vestiges  only  of  the  other  are  now  extant.  To  Crescenzio  may  probably 
also  be  ascribed  the  mural  designs  in  a  lateral  chapel  of  St.  Maria  di 
Gesu,  which  forcibly  recal  the  Florentine  compositions  of  the  15th  century. 
His  pupils  Tommaso  di  Vigilia  and  Pietro  Ruzulone  are  painters  of  medi- 
ocre rank.  The  most  distinguished  Sicilian  painter  of  the  loth  cent, 
was  Antonello  da  Messina,  but  a  single  authentic  work  at  his  native  town 
(in  the  university,  p.  288)  is  the  only  trace  of  him  now  existing.  This 
master  must  not  be  confounded  with  his  less  distinguished  contemporary 
Antonello  da  Saliba,  several  pictures  by  whom  are  still  preserved  at  Pa- 
lermo. Of  the  artists  of  Palermo  in  the  16th  cent,  the  most  famous 
was  Vmcenzio  Ainhnolo,  who  is  also  known  as  Vincenzio  Romano  ,  and 
is  said  to  have  been  a  pupil  of  Polidoro  Caldara.  Most  of  the  churches 
of  Palermo  boast  of  works  by  this  master,  who  would  therefore  seem  to 
have  been  very  prolific  ;  but  as  the  works  attributed  to  him  are  of  very 
unequal  merit,  many  of  them  are  probably  by  an  entirely  different  hand, 
while  others  are  partly  by  his  pupils.  His  labours  extended  down  to  the 
year  15i2.  His  finest  works  are  the  Ascension  and  the  Descent  from  the 
Bakdkkkii.     Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  |j 


226  SICILY. 


Literature. 


Cross  in  the'Museum,  and  a  rich  composition  in  a  side  chapel  to  the  left 
in  S.  Domenico.  To  the  17th  cent,  belongs  Pietro  Novelli  (1603-77), 
surnamed  'Monrealese',  a  master  of  considerable  originality,  and  a  follower 
of  the  Neapolitan  school,  to  which  he  owes  his  vigorous  colouring  and 
his  strongly  individualised  heads.  Besides  his  works  at  Palermo,  there 
is  an  interesting  work  by  this  master  in  the  staircase  at  Monreale  (Mira- 
cles of  St.  Benedict).  Several  of  his  monkish  figures  are  among  the 
finest  works  produced  by  the  Italian  naturalists.  In  the  18th  cent. 
Palermo  was  an  active  follower  of  the  degraded  styles  of  the  period,  the 
proofs  of  which  are  too  numerous  to  require  special  enumeration. 

Music.  In  the  history  of  music  Sicily  occupies  a  less  prominent  po- 
sition than  in  the  other  arts,  but  Bellini  (b.  at  Catania  1802,  d.  near  Paris 
1835)  is  justly  admired  for  the  beauty  and  sweetness  of  his  melodies. 

Literature.  For  the  study  of  the  history  of  the  island  and  the 
Sicilian  dialect ,  which  is  characterised  by  the  frequent  elision  of  conso- 
nants, transposition  of  letters,  and  incessant  use  of  the  half  mute  vowels  o 
and  u,  the  following  works  may  be  recommended :  Giuseppe  Biundi, 
Dizionario  Siciliano  -  Italiano ;  Palermo ,  1857.  Gius.  Perez,  Vocabolario 
Sicil.  Italiano ;  Palermo  ,  1870.  Lionardo  Vigo,  Canti  popolari  Siciliani ; 
Catania  ,  1857.  Alessio  Narbone,  Bibliografla  Sicola ;  Palermo,  1850 ;  4  vols. 
8vo  (a  collection  and  description  of  all  the  works  on  Sicily  to  which  the 
author  has  obtained  access  ;  invaluable  to  the  student).  Best  compendium 
of  the  history  of  Sicily :  Pietro  San  Filippo,  Compendio  delta  Storia  di 
Siciliu  ;  Palermo,  1859  ;  7th  edition.  The  best  detailed  work  :  Giovanni  Evang. 
di  Blasi,  Storia  del  Regno  di  Sicilia ;  Palermo,  1844 ;  3  thick  8vo  vols.  — 
Vito  Amico,  Dizionario  topograflco  della  Sicilia  .  tradotto  da  Gioacchino  di 
Marzo;  Palermo,  1855;  2  vols.  8vo.  —  Among  works  of  a  special  character 
may  be  mentioned  :  Serradifalco,  Antichita  di  Sicilia,  5  vols.  fol. ;  H.  G. 
Knight,  Saracenic  and  Norman  Remains  in  Sicilii ;  Hiltorf  et  Zanth,  Archi- 
tecture moderne  de  la  Sidle.  —  A  magnificent  work  on  the  cathedral  of 
Monreale  was  lately  published  at  Palermo  (price  800  fr.).  —  Among 
others  are  those  of  A.  Amari  on  the  Sicilian  Vespers  and  the  Mussulman 
supremacy ,  Isidoro  La  Lumiii  on  the  reign  of  Charles  V.  and  the  revo- 
lution of  1649  and  1860 ;  Sartorius  v.  Waltershausen  on  jEtna  (a  magnificent 
work   in   German),    Palmieri  on  the  Constitution  of  1812. 


23.    From  Naples  to  Sicily. 

A.     To  Messina. 

Steamers  of  the  Societa  Florio  <t  Co.  (office,  Strada  Piliero  30)  on 
Mondays,  "Wednesdays,  and  Fridays  at  6  p.m.,  direct  in  about  20  hrs. ; 
fares  ^[z,  31]|2  fr.  —  Societa  Peirano  Danovaro  &  Co.  (office,  Strada 
Piliero  33)  on  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays  at  6  p.m. ,  touching  at  the  chief 
ports  on  the  coast  (Paola  on  Wednesday  and  Sunday  forenoons  ;  Pizzo  on 
Wednesday  and  Sunday  afternoons),  in  about  28  hrs  ;  fares  38'/2,  22V2fr., 
without  food.  —  (From  Messina :  Societa  Florio  on  Mondays ,  Thursdays, 
and  Saturdays  at  10  a.m. ;  Societa  Peirano  on  Tuesdays  at  11  p.m.  and 
Saturdays  at  midnight,  arriving  at  Pizzo  on  Wednesdays  at  5  and  Sundays 
at  6  a.m.,  and  at  Paola  at  12  noon  and  1  p.m.  respectively.  The  indirect 
voyage  from  Messina  to  Naples  is  less  suitable  for  the  return  route  than 
the  other,  as  the  steamers  generally  arrive  at  Naples  after  dark.)  —  Em- 
barcation  with  luggage  1  fr. ,  comp.  Introd.  p.  xix. 

Departure  from  Naples,  see  p.  21.  After  2y2  hrs.  ,  and  beyond 
Castellamare  and  Sorrento,  the  steamer  enters  the  strait  between 
Capri ,  with  the  rugged  and  precipitous  Lo  Capo  (p.  153),  and  the 
Punta  di  Campanella  (p.  148).  Shortly  afterwards  a  view  of  the 
Bay  of  Salerno  is  disclosed.  As  the  sun  sets  and  the  vessel  gradually 
>tands  out  to  sea,  Mt.  Vesuvius  presents  a  most  majestic  appearance. 


PAOLA.  23.  Route.     227 

On  the  Direct  Voyage  the  steamer  reaches  the  open  sea  ahout 
dusk.  On  the  following  forenoon  the  volcano  of  the  island  of 
Stromboli ,  near  which  the  steamer  afterwards  passes,  becomes 
visible  on  the  right.  The  mountain-range  of  the  N.  coast  of  Sicily 
next  comes  in  sight ,  presenting  a  very  striking  appearance.  As 
the  vessel  steers  for  the  Strait  of  Messina  we  observe  Scilla  with 
its  castle  on  the  left,  and  the  Faro  on  the  right.  Arrival  at  Messina, 
see  p.  284. 

The  Coasting  Steamers  of  the  Peirano  Co.  pass  the  promon- 
tories della  Licosa  and  dello  Spartivento  and  the  Bay  of  Policastro 
during  the  night.  The  once  powerful  town  of  the  latter  name  was 
destroyed  by  Robert  Guiscard  in  1055,  and  by  the  Turks  in  1542, 
and  now  contains  4000  inhab.  only. 

On  the  following  morning,  between  7  and  8  a.  m.,  Monte  Pollino 
(7326  ft.),  which  terminates  the  Neapolitan  Apennines,  is  the  most 
conspicuous  mountain,  and  adjoining  it  begin  the  Calabrian  Mts. 
As  the  vessel  proceeds  southwards  to  Paola  we  enjoy  a  succession 
of  fine  views.  The  coast  is  studded  with  numerous  towns  and 
villages ,  most  of  them  situated  on  the  heights  ,  between  which 
valleys  descend  to  empty  their  brooks  into  the  sea.  About  9  a.  m. 
Verbicaro  is  seen  somewhat  inland,  then  (9.  30)  Diamante,  at  the 
base  of  a  lofty  cliff.  Farther  on,  Belvedere  with  4627  inhab., 
charmingly  situated  on  the  slopes  of  the  mountain.  Then,  after 
a  small  promontory  is  passed,  in  the  bay  to  the  S.  lies  Cetraro, 
most  of  the  inhabitants  of  which  are  anchovy-fishers.  About  10 
a.  m.  we  observe  Guardia,  on  a  lofty  hill,  with  warm  baths ;  then 
the  town  of  Fuscaldo,  with  9500  inhab.  and  the  ruins  of  an  old 
castle. 

(12  o'cl.)  Paola,  a  town  with  8500  inhab.,  beautifully  sit- 
uated in  a  ravine  and  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain ,  carries 
on  an  extensive  oil  and  wine  trade.  "When  the  vessel  stops 
here  a  busy  scene  usually  takes  place,  as  the  inhabitants  hasten 
on  board  with  all  kinds  of  articles  for  sale.  Paola,  which  some 
suppose  to  be  the  Palycus  of  the  Greeks ,  was  the  birthplace 
of  Francesco  di  Paola,  founder  of  the  mendicant  order  of  Mi- 
norites. —  On  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  carriages  start  for  Cosenza 
(3'/2  hrs.  drive,  seat  5  fr.  ;   see  p.  200). 

After  a  halt  of  about  l1/?  hr.  the  vessel  resumes  her  voyage. 
On  the  coast  are  the  villages  of  San  Lucido  (2  p.m.),  Fiume- 
freddo,  and  Belmonte,  at  the  back  of  which  rises  the  conspicuous 
Monte  Cocuzzo  (1804  ft).  Amantea  next  becomes  visible,  sup- 
posed to  be  the  ancient  Amantia  of  Bruttium.  The  town  and 
fortress,  erected  on  a  lofty  rock,  were  garrisoned  in  1806  by 
royalists ,  who  repelled  the  attacks  of  the  French  troops ;  but, 
after  severe  sufferings  from  famine ,  they  were  compelled  to 
surrender  the  following  year.  To  the  S.  of  Amantea  the  Savuto 
falls  into  the  sea.     The  coast  becomes  flat  and  less  richly  culti- 

15* 


228      Route  23.  TROPEA. 

vated'.  (12.  45)  Nocera  ;  then  past  the  Capo  Suvero  to  the  Golfo 
di  Santa  Eufemia,   at  the   S.  end  of  which  lies  — 

(5.  45)  Pizzo  (see  p.  202);  halt  iy2  hr. 

At  the   ,S.  E.   angle  of  the  hay  lies  Monteleone,   see  p.  202. 

The  steamboat  rounds  Capo  Zambrone.  (8  p.m.)  Tropea,  an 
ancient  town  (5600inhab.)  in  a  delightful  situation,  the  climate 
of  which  is  much  extolled.  To  the  S.  is  the  Capo  Vaticano  with 
its  lighthouse,  projecting  far  into  the  sea.  In  the  hay  lies  Nico- 
tera,  which  suffered  severely  from  the  earthquake  (p.  203)  of 
1783,  near  the  influx  of  the  Meaima.  At  Gioja  (p.  203)  the 
post-road  from  Naples  to  Reggio  (R.  20)  leads  down  to  the  coast, 
which  it  skirts  during  the  rest  of  the  way  (comp.  p.  203). 
Soon  after  the  harbour  of  Pizzo  is  quitted  the  Lipari  Islands 
(R.  30)  become  visible  to  the  W.  ;  Stromboli,  with  its  continually 
smoking  crater,  is  the  most  conspicuous.  Off  Capo  Vaticano  the 
Sicilian  mountains  suddenly  appear. 

Pairni,  Baynara,  Scilla,  see  p.  203.  The  Aspromonte  range, 
with  the  Monte  Alto  (6907  ft.) ,  looks  uninteresting  from  this 
side.  We  now  enter  the  Strait  of  Messina,  which  presents  a 
busy  scene  during  the  daytime. 

Messina,  see  p.  284.  If  the  steamer  arrives  during  the  night 
the  passenger  had  better  remain  on  board  till  morning,  enquiring 
beforehand  of  the  captain  when  the  vessel  is  to  start  again. 

B.      To  Palermo. 

Steamers  of  the  Societa  Florio  (ofiice,  Strada  Piliero  30)  daily, 
except  Sundays  and  Tuesdays ,  at  6  p.m. ,  in  19-20  hrs.  \  fares  48  fr.  60, 
31  fr.  GO  c.  —  Societa  La  Triiuicria  (ofiice ,  Strada  Piliero  7)  on  Tuesday 
at  6  p.m.,  in  the  same  time  and  at  the  same  fares.  The  passenger  should 
be  on  deck  early  next  morning  to  enjoy  the  beautiful  approach  to  Sicily 
and  the  entrance  into  the  harbour.  —  (From  Palermo :  Florio  vessels  daily, 
except  Sundays  and  Fridays,  at  3  p.m.) 

departure  from  the  bay,  comp.  p.  20;  beautiful  retrospect, 
l'eyond  Capri  the  steamer  reaches  the  open  sea.  Early  next 
morning  (between  5  and  6  o'cl.)  the  Lipari  Islands  (R.  36)  are  seen 
to  the  S.  (left);  later  the  island  of  Vstica  (p.  245)  to  the  W., 
long  remai. ling  visible;  then,  about  10  a.m.,  the  towering  moun- 
tains of  Sicily  ;  to  the  extreme  right  is  the  Capo  di  Gallo,  nearer 
rises  Monte  Pellegrino  (1958  ft.  ;  p.  243)  ,  and  to  the  left  is  the 
Monte  Catalfano  (1233  ft.),  with  a  smaller  pointed  promontory, 
guarding  the  E.  entrance  to  the  Iiay  of  Palermo.  At  length  we 
perceive  the  beautiful  and  extensive  city.  A  little  to  the  left 
of  Monte  Pellegrino  are  the  lofty  Monte  Cuccio  (3445  ft.),  MonreaU 
(  I » .  241),  and  farther  distant  the  Mnnle  (iriffone. 
Palermo,  see  below. 


corner  of  tile  Piazza  Marina)  to  Naples  five  times  weekly,  see  p.  228,  to 
Leghorn  and  Genoa  once  weekly;  also  to  the  Sicilian  towns:  once,  weekly 
eastwards  to  Cefalii,  Milazzo,  the  Lipari  Islands,  and  Messina,  see  p.  278; 
once  westwards  to  Trapani,  Girgenti ,  and  Syracuse,  see  p.  246;  also  once 


Abbreviature 
XXartjo.  MMonte.  J?f\azia. 
SalSaUa.  Str.Sirad*.  WSa.  7&.»%e& 

d- del,  iUUo,deVa,  dell*  Kc. 


5  .  S.dntta  — 

4  .S.^ntorurw  - 

5  .  S. -Intoiiio J). 4 

6  .fiadia,  del  Monte ffieta.) _  F.4 


D.S 
D.4 


7  .HadiaJTuora. 

.  S-Basi&o 
9  .  S.Benedetto  (deJienedeuini- 

-liixauTcLJ C.l 

10 .  oVBuonfraidli C .  5 

VL.de?  CappiuxineUL E.2 

U.S.Qu-lo C.4 

Carmine  v.  Madonna- 
13 . (asa  Professa. de'GeSiu&_ C ■  3 
Vk.S.  Ctderina, C-4 


15 -.   CaUearale  (Duoino) B .  2 

1G .  S.  CUara. C  ■  S 

17.  S.  Gta. E.5 

18-   d.CorvSQlajUone. H.  5 

19.  d.Qmcexione _  E.2 

20.  S.Cosmo D.2 

21.  de'G-odfirC D.S 

22.  S.Domenuo D.4 

25.  S.Elisahetta, C.2 

24.  S.EulaHa, D.4 


40 .  Madonna,  del  Carmine    B 

41.    —  maygwreH 

42 .  della-Magione- B 

4s.  J.Marco D 


25.  S.Frajuxsco  aVtlssisi  C-5 

26.        oUPaoTa. T.5 

27.        Sarerio B.2 

laOttncUvi £.5        44.  S. Margarita. 

29.  S.  Giacoma D  5 

SO  •  S.  Gioryio E .  5 


45.  S.Maria.VjOuuunziata-  B.  * 
46 delU  Cancelliere-  D  ■  5 


Gl.JVbriziado  de*Gesv£U- 
62  •£  Oliva, - 


"Waftiua.  &  Sctbes  ,I«pzig- 


Geotfpaph..-An.6-tait  vo_a 


229 


24.    Palermo. 


Arrival.  Travellers  are  conveyed  tci  the  Dogana  (PI.  11.  7:  1  t'r.  for 
each  pers.),  where  luggage  is  slightly  examined.  Thence  fo  the  town 
about    1   31.;  cab  with  luggage  I'/a  fr. 

Hotels.  (If  a  stay  of  any  length  is  made,  charges  had  better  be  asked 
beforehand.)  :;:  Tkinacria  (PI.  a),  with  a  fine  view  of  the  Marina,  en- 
tered from  the  Strada  Butera,  proprietor  M.  Ragusa;  visitors  chiefly  Kng- 
lish,  American,  and  German;  E.  facing  the  Marina  on  the  1st,  2nd,  or 
3rd  floor  5,  4th  4,  5th  2>/s  fr. ;  sitting-room  6-10  fr. ;  B.  M/2,  dejeuner  3-3'/2, 
D.  51/?,  served  in  the  traveller's  apartment  6  fr. ;  A.  J ,  L.  1  fr.  —  -Hotel  de 
France  (PI.  b),  by  the  Giardino  Garibaldi,  Piazza  Marina  (PI.  (',  5),  less 
frequented  by  foreign  travellers  ;  charges  a  shade  lower  than  at  the  Tri- 
nacria  (D.  5  fr.).  Italia  (PI.  c),  Piazza  Marina  60,  also  near  the  Giardino 
Garibaldi,  R.  2-6,  L.  and  A.  1,  dej.  21(2-3 ,  D.  5  fr.  Outside  the  Porta 
Macqueda,  Piazza  Oliva  72,  is  the  "Hotel  Oliva  (PI.  e  ;  kept  by  a  brother- 
in-law  of  the  landlord  of  the  Trinacria) ,  pension  10  fr.,  recommended 
for  moderate  requirements  only.  —  Of  the  second  class:  "Alberto  Cen- 
trale  (PI.  d),  with  trattoria,  Corso  Vitt.  Emamiele  355,  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  close  to  the  Quattro  Canti,  E.  2-3,  coffee  1  fr.,  dej.  l1!^, 
1>.  3'/2-4,  pension  6-8  fr.  ;  Albergo  al  Pizzuto  .  Via  Bandiera  30,  near 
the  Piazza  Domenica.  —  Pensions:  Lehn,  Via  Ingham  (10-12  fr.)  ;  Miss 
Hollowat,  Via  Lincoln  39. 

Trattorie  and  Cafes.  "Villa  di  Roma,  Corso  313,  right  side,  before  the 
Quattro  Canti  is  reached;  "Cafe  Orcio,  at  the  corner  of  the  Piazza  Marina 
and  the  Corso ;  Cafi  Lincoln,  opposite;  Progresso,  Via  Macqueda;  good 
dejeuner  at  the  cafe's.  —  Best  ices  at  the  cafe  of  the  Teatro  Bellini,  Piazza 
delta  Martorana.  —  Confectioner  I'Pasticceria1),  Caflisch,  Corso  164.  — 
Birrcria,  in  the  court  of  the  Albergo  Centrale  (see  above). 

The  Casino  Nuovo,  or  new  club,  in  the  Palazzo  Geraci  in  the  Corso, 
contains  handsome  apartments  and  is  worth  visiting  ;  strangers  may  easily 
obtain  an  introduction  for  a  fortnight ;  ticket  for  a  longer  period  10  fr.  per 
month. 

Carriages.     Tariff  for  1-4  persons  :  — 

Drive  within  the  town-walls 

I>rive  within  the  suburbs,  including  the  harbour 

Small  articles  free.     Each  box  20  c. 

First  hour 

Each  additional  hour 

From  midnight  to  early  morning  all  these  charges  are  raised  by  one- 
half.  Driving  in  the  town  is  prohibited  on  Good  Friday.  Longer  drives 
according  to  bargain.  The  cabmen  of  Palermo  are  quite  as  extortionate 
as  those  of  Naples. 

Baths.  'Via  Rosolino  Pilo  31  (PI.  E,  3),  outside  the  Porta  Macqueda, 
cold  or  warm  bath  85  c,  Russian  bath  for  1-2  pers.  5  fr.;  also  Via 
Sebastiano  11,  not  far  from  the  Piazza  Marina.  —  Sea  Baths  near  Acqua 
Santa  (PI.  I,  7).  Swimmers  will  probably  prefer  to  bathe  early  in  the  mor- 
ning from  a  boat,  which  they  may  hire  OI2  fr.)  at  the  Sanita,  outside  the 
Porta  Felice. 

Post  Office  (PI.  88)  on  the  E.  side  of  Piazza  Bologni  (p.  234).  The 
poste-restante  letters  for  strangers  are  kept  separate  from  those  of  the 
Italians.  —  The  Diligences  to  the  interior  start  from  the  corner  of  Via 
Macqueda  and  Via  del  Bosco  (PI.  B  ,  3).  The  Periodica  (omnibus)  starts 
from  the  Palazzo  Sambucco,  near  the  Convento  della  Ganeia,  Str.  Alloro 
(PL  e,  5). 

Telegraph  Office,  Via  Macqueda,  not  far  from  the  (juattro  Canti  (on 
the  left  in  going  thence  to  the  Porta  Macqueda). 

Rail-way  Station  outside  the  Porta  S.  Antonina  (PI.  A  B,  4). 

Steamboats.  Societa  Florio  (office,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  96,  at  the 
corner  of  the  Piazza  Marina)  to  Naples  five  times  weekly,  see  p.  228,  to 
Leghorn  and  Genoa  once  weekly;  also  to  the  Sicilian  towns:  once,  weekly 
eastwards  to  Cefalii,  Milazzo,  the  Lipari  Islands,  and  Messina,  see  p.  278; 
once  westwards  to  Trapani,  Girgenti,  and  Syracuse,  see  p.  246;  also  once 


One-h. 

0.  60 

1.  — 

Two-! 
0.80 
1.  50 

1.  80 
1.  60 

2.  20 
0.  — 

230      -24.  Route.  PALERMO.  Climate. 

weekly  westwards  to  Messina  and  Malta ,  and  twice  monthly  to  TJstica.  — 
La  Triiiacria  (office,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  ,  163) :  once  weekly  to  Naples, 
see  p.  226;  once  to  Messina  (and  the  East),  see  p.  278.  —  Societa  Rubat- 
tino  (office,  adjacent  to  that  of  the  Florio  Co.) :  twice  weekly  to  Cagliari, 
see  p.  331.  —  Messageries  Maritime*  (office  in  the  Piazza  Marina)  :  once  a 
fortnight  to  Marseilles. 

Booksellers.  Fratelli  Pedone  Lauriel,  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  360.  — 
Second-hand  books:  Giovanni  Fiorenza ,  Corso  365;  both  near  the  Quattro 
Canti,  in  the  direction  of  the  Piazza  Vittoria. 

Photographs :  Rob.  Rive  and  Tagliarini ,  adjoining  each  other  in  the 
Corso ,  near  the  Largo  S.  Spirito  (PI.  C,  6).  Better  choice  at  the  studio 
of  the  latter,  Via  Macqueda  217. 

Bankers.  Kayser  i-  Kressner ,  Via  Teatro  S.  Cecilia  44;  Hirzel ,  Via 
deir  Ucciardone  6;   Wedekind,  Via  Cintorinari  (PI.  C,  4). 

Climate.  Palermo  is  often  recommended  as  a  winter-residence  to  per- 
sons with  delicate  chests.  The  air  is  mild ,  humid ,  and  of  very  equable 
temperature,  averaging  52°  Fahr.  in  January.  Furnished  apartments, 
which  are  unfortunately  scarce ,  should  be  hired  through  the  medium  of 
a  resident  friend.  Many  visitors  spend  the  winter  at  the  Trinacria.  — 
In  summer ,  especially  when  the  sirocco  prevails ,  the  heat  is  often  in- 
tolerable. 

Physician :  Dr.  Berlin,  Via  S.  Sebastiano  30,  to  the  N.  of  the  Corso,  not 
far  from  the  Largo  Marina.  —  English  Chemist :  Corso  Vitt.  Emanuele  27, 
near  the  Largo   S.  Spirito. 

Theatres.  Teatro  Bellini  (PI.  95),  Piazza  della  Martorana;  S.  Cecilia 
(PI.  9G),  in  the  same  street;  Politeama  (summer  theatre),  Piazza  Ruggiero 
Settimo  (PI.  F,  4;  p.  289). 

Consuls.  American  :  Mr.  R.  Frazer,  Via  Butera.  —  British :  Mr.  George 
Dennis,  same  street.  —  There  are  also  German,  French,  Belgian,  and  Dutch 
consuls  resident  here. 

English  Church,  Via  Lolli  44;  Scotch,  Via  Giuseppe  d'Alessi  13,  at  the 
back  of  the  University. 

Attractions.  During  a  stay  of  three  days  at  Palermo  the  traveller 
should  visit :  —  1st  Day.  The  Museum  (p.  236),  La  Martorana  (p.  235),  the 
Cathedra)  (p.  233),  the  Royal  Palace  (p.  231),  La  Flora,  and  the  Marina. 
2nd  Day.  Monreale,  La  Zisa  (R.  25a),  La  Favorita  (p.  244).  —  3rd  Day. 
Monte  Pellegrino  (R.  25b)  in  the  forenoon;  in  the  afternoon  the  Bagaria, 
or  S.  Maria  di  Gesii  (R.  25  c). 

The  Festival  of  St.  Rosalia  (p.  243),  ll-15th  July,  accompanied  with 
horse-races,  illuminations,  processions  to  the  chapel  of  the  saint,  etc., 
attracts  a  great  concourse  of  country-people  to  Palermo  several  days  before 
the  beginning  of  the  gaieties.  The  Municipio  usually  contributes  30- 
40,000  fr.,  towards  the  expenses  ,  in  order  that  this  famous  feast  may  be 
celebrated  with  becoming  splendour. 

Palermo,  the  capital  of  Sicily  ,  with  186,145  (or,  including  the 
surrounding  villages,  219,398  inhab.),  is  the  military,  judicial, 
and  ecclesiastical  headquarters  of  the  island,  and  possesses  one  of 
the  seven  principal  Italian  universities.  It  lies  in  38°,  6',  44"  N. 
latitude,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Bay  of  Palermo  which  opens  towards 
the  E.,  and  is  enclosed  by  the  fertile  plain  of  the  Conca  d'  Oro, 
beyond  which  rises  an  amphitheatre  of  imposing  mountains.  On 
the  N.  the  city  is  sheltered  by  the  finely  shaped  Monte  Pellegrino. 
Palermo  is  justly  entitled  to  the  epithet  'la  felice',  on  account  of 
its  magnificent  situation  and  delightful  climate. 

The  town  is  on  the  whole  well  built,  although  the  houses  are 
often  shabby  externally.  It  forms  an  oblong  quadrangle,  the  E.  end 
of  which   adjoins   the  sea.     Two   main    streets   divide  it  into  four 


Palazzo  Reale.  PALERMO.  24.  Route.     231 

quarters.  South-westwards ,  from  the  Porta  Felice  on  the  sea  as 
far  as  the  Porta  Nuova  by  the  royal  palace,  extends  the  Cassaro, 
now  called  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  which  is  intersected  at 
right  angles  by  the  Via  Macqueda.  The  S.  gate  is  the  Porta  S. 
Antonino,  the  N.  the  Porta  Macqueda. 

The  commerce  of  the  city,  which  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of 
foreigners,  is  less  considerable  than  that  of  Messina.  Sumach  is, 
however,  largely  exported  hence. 

The  narrow  and  shallow  harbour,  called  La  Cala,  on  the  N.  W.  side 
of  which  lie  the  ruins  of  Fort  Castellamare,  extended  in  ancient  and  mediaeval 
times  far  into  the  city,  and  was  divided  between  the  Piazza  Marina  and 
Quattro  Canti  into  two  arms,  which  enclosed  the  Acropolis,  and  separated 
it  from  the  suburbs  on  each  side.  The  right  arm  extended  as  far  as  the 
Palazzo  Reale  ,  whence  the  Greek  name  of  the  city  'Panormos1  ('entirely 
harbour')  and  its  reputation  as  a  seaport,  though  it  i§  now  inaccessible  to 
large  vessels.  The  ancient  Panormus  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the 
Phoenician  settlement  Machanath  by  the  Greeks,  but,  until  the  conquest 
of  Sicily  by  the  Romans,  was  one  of  the  most  important  strongholds  of  the 
Carthaginian  invaders.  It  afterwards  belonged  to  the  Romans  and  was 
colonised  by  Augustus.  On  the  fall  of  the  W.  empire  the  city  fell  under 
the  sway  of  the  E.  emperors;  in  831  the  Arabs,  and  in  1072  the  Normans 
obtained  possession  of  it,  and  here  their  emirs  and  kings  resided.  After 
1266  the  French  took  possession  of  Palermo,  but  were  expelled  in  1280  (Si- 
cilian Vespers).  The  monarchs  of  the  house  of  Arragon  seldom  resided  here. 
The  Chiaramonte,  powerful  feudal  barons,  who  erected  a  spacious  palace  for 
themselves  at  Palermo,  were  long  the  real  rulers  of  the  place.  Subsequently 
the  viceroys  of  Sicily,  notwithstanding  the  loud  remonstrances  of  Messina, 
selected  this  city  as  their  residence.  In  1799  the  Bourbon  Ferdinand  IV., 
on  his  expulsion  from  Naples ,  took  up  his  quarters  in  the  royal  palace. 
After  1815  the  viceroys  had  to  contend  against  the  rebellions  of  1820, 
1837,  and  1848,  and  at  length  in  1860  the  subversion  of  the  existing  govern- 
ment was  effected.  In  Sept.  1866  an  insurrection,  half  Bourbon  and  half 
republican,  broke  out  here,  and  to  this  day  the  environs  are  sadly  in- 
fested by  brigands.  From  1827  to  1848  not  a  single  new  house  was  erected 
in  Palermo,  but  the  town  has  extended  considerably  since  1860,  espe- 
cially towards  the  N.W. 

Palermo  possesses  very  few  ancient  architectural  remains  (p.  233),  bnt 
this  want  is  amply  compensated  for  by  its  interesting  mediaeval  monuments 
and  the  museum. 

On  the  S.  "VV.  side  of  the  town,  at  the  end  of  the  Corso  Vit- 
torio Emanuele,  lies  the  spacious  Piazza  uella  Vittoria  (PL 
C,  2),  where  the  — 

"Palazzo  Reale  (PL  87)  rises  on  a  slight  eminence  which 
has  always  been  the  site  of  the  castle  of  the  city.  The  building 
is  of  Saracenic  origin.  Additions  were  made  by  Robert  Guiscard, 
King  Roger,  the  two  Williams,  Frederick  II.,  and  Manfred,  and 
it  afterwards  underwent  many  alterations,  notwithstanding  which 
it  still  retains  traces  of  its  origin  as  a  defensive  structure. 

The  gate  farthest  to  the  left  leads  into  the  Palace  Court, 
which  is  enclosed  by  arcades.  Ascending  a  staircase  on  the  left, 
and  turning  to  the  right  on  the  first  floor,   we  enter  the  — 

**Cappella  Palatina,  the  vestibule  of  which,  embellished 
with  modern  mosaics,  is  borne  by  seven  columns ,  six  of  these 
being  of  Egyptian  granite.  (The  chapel  is  open  early  in  the 
morning ;   at  a  later  hour  visitors  knock,   or  apply  to  one  of  the 


232      Route  >i.  PALERMO.  Cappella  Palatina. 

custodians;  fee  '/2  fr.)  This  famous  structure,  a  perfect  gem  of 
medieval  architecture,  was  built  by  King  Roger  II.  in  the  Nor- 
man style  and  dedicated  to  St.  Peter.  It  consists  of  a  nave  with 
aisles,  and  is  36  yds.  long,  including  the  apse,  and  14  yds.  in 
width.  The  Arabian  pointed  arches  are  borne  by  ten  columns 
of  granite  and  cipollino ,  16  ft.  in  height.  The  choir  is  ap- 
proached by  Ave  steps,  and  over  the  centre  of  the  cross  rises  a 
dome  57  ft.  in  height.  The  walls  are  entirely  covered  with 
mosaics  on  a  golden  ground. 

The  'Mosaics  represent  subjects  from  Hie  Old  Testament,  and  the 
lives  of  Christ,  St.  Peter,  and  St.  Paul.  In  the  centre  of  the  apse  Christ 
is  represented  in  the  style  which  recurs  in  all  Norman  mosaics ,  the  finest 
specimen  of  which  is  at  Cefalii.  The  dome  is  perforated  by  eight  nar- 
row windows,  and  bears  Greek  and  Latin  inscriptions.  The  characters  on 
the  ceiling  of  the  nave  are  Cufic  or  ancient  Arabic  (comp.  p.  224).  The 
mosaic  pavement,  an  ambo  or  reading-desk  on  the  right,  and  a  marble 
candelabrum,  ii1^  ft.  in  height ,  also  deserve  inspection.  The  Gothic 
choir-stalls  are  modern. 

Leaving  the  chapel,  we  ascend  the  principal  staircase  on  theW. 
side  of  the  court  to  the  arcades  of  the  second  floor,  and  enter 
the  passage  to  the  left,  where  the  first  door  on  the  right  bears 
the  inscription,  'R.  Osservatorio'.  This  is  the  entrance  to  the 
observatory ,  which  is  fitted  up  in  the  tower  of  S.  Ninfa ,  the 
oldest  part  of  the  edifice  (open  to  the  public  on  Thursdays,  10-3  ; 
to  travellers  daily). 

We  ascend  two  flights  of  steps  and  enter  by  a  door,  where  we  find 
the  custodian  0/2-1  fr.).  The  flat  roof  commands  a  superb  'Panorama. 
At  our  feet  lies  the  Piazza  Vittoria,  above  the  left  angfe  of  which  rises 
S.  Rosalia;  in  front  of  the  latter  is  the  Pal.  Vescovile;  on  the  right  is 
the  beginning  of  the  Corso.  To  the  left  beyond  it  lies  the  harbour,  com- 
manded on  the  left  by  the  Monte  Pellegrino;  to  the  left  in  the  background 
rise  the  mountains  of  the  Capo  Gallo  ;  below  them,  in  the  foreground,  is 
the  Porta  Nuova ;  to  the  left,  farther  distant,  La  Zisa,  a  cubical  yellow 
building  with  numerous  windows ;  farther  to  the  left  in  the  background 
rises  the  pointed  Monte  Cuccio,  prolonged  on  the  left  by  the  hill  of  Mon- 
reale.  Farther  to  the  left,  at  our  feet,  extends  the  Giardino  Reale,  above 
which  is  the  Piazza  dell1  Indipendenza  with  the  obelisks.  In  the  foreground, 
S.E.,  is  the  tower  of  the  red  church  of  S.  Giovanni  degli  Eremiti ;  beyond 
it  the  cypress-grove  of  the  Campo  Santo;  in  the  distance,  at  the  base  of 
the  lofty  M.  Griffone,  lies  S.  Maria  di  Gesii ;  more  to  the  left,  M.  Catalfano, 
abutting  on  the  sea  ;  on  the  promontory,  to  the  right  of  the  latter,  is  the 
Bagaria. 

The  door  at  the  end  of  the  above-mentioned  passage  leads  to 
the  apartments  of  the  palace,  the  most  noticeable  of  which  are 
the  so-called  Stanza  di  Ruggiero  ,  with  walls  of  mosaic ,  and  a 
room  containing  portraits  of  the  viceroys  (fee  1   fr.). 

Connected  with  the  Palazzo  Reale  are  the  fortified  city  gates. 
To  the  right  (N. )  is  the  Porta  Nuova,  through  which  the  Mon- 
reale  road  (p.  240)  leads  past  the  (i/2  M.)  Cuba.  (The  first  side- 
street  to  the  right,  outside  the  gate,  leads  to  the  Zisa,  %  y[  ; 
see  p.  242.)  To  the  left  is  the  Porta  di  Castro,  the  road  through 
which  leads  to  Parco  (p.  2f>7  ).  Outside  these  gates  lies  the  Largo 
dell'   Indipendenza,   embellished  with  an  obelisk. 


Cathedral.  PALERMO.  :>4.  Route.    "2'5?y 

In  the  corner  of  the  Piazza  della  Vittoria,  nearly  opposite 
the  entrance  to  the  palace,  rises  a  Monument  to  Philip  IV. 
(PI.  C,  2),  erected  in  1854  on  the  site  of  one  destroyed 
in  1848. 

A  few  hundred  paces  from  this  point,  not  far  from  the  Porta 
di  Castro,  is  the  church  of  S.  Giovanni  degli  Eremiti  (PI.  32; 
generally  closed ;  entrance  Via  de'  Benedittini  36,  fee  '/2-I  ?*■)■> 
one  of  the  earliest  existing  Norman  churches,  and  still  presenting 
an  almost  entirely  Oriental  aspect.  It  is  constructed  in  the  form 
of  a  so-called  Egyptian  cross  (T) ,  with  three  apses ,  a  large 
dome,  and  four  smaller  ones.  Adjoining  the  church,  the  bell  of 
which  was  the  first  to  ring  the  alarm  on  the  occasion  of  the 
Sicilian  Vespers,  are  small,  but  interesting  Cloisters,  in  a  dilapi- 
dated condition. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  Piazza  della  Vittoria,  opposite 
the  palace,  stands  the  Spedale  Grande  (PI.  93),  erected 
within  a  year  by  Count  Matteo  Sclafani  in  1330,  purchased 
by  the  city  in  1440  for  150  oncie  (about  75 1,  sterl.L  and  now 
a  barrack. 

The  arcades  of  the  second  court  are  decorated  on  the  right  with  a 
large  fresco  of  the  15th  cent,  by  Antonio  Crescenzio,  the  'Triumph  of  Death1, 
in  a  style  resembling  the  Florentine  (p.  225).  Keys  at  the  Municipio.  — 
(The  remains  of  an  old  fresco  by  "Novelli ,  formerly  here  ,  are  now  in  the 
Museum ;  p.  238.) 

In  1869  the  remains  of  an  ancient  Roman  house  were  dis- 
covered in  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  piazza.  Its  mosaic  pavement  has 
recently  been  removed  to  the  museum. 

On  the  opposite  side  is  the  Archiepiscopal  Palace  (PL  84") , 
with  its  facade  adorned  with  statues  towards  the  Piazza  del  Duomo, 
dating  in  its  present  form  from  the  16th  cent.  Beautiful  Gothic 
window.  The  tower,  connected  with  the  cathedral  by  a  graceful 
arch,   was  erected  in  the  12th  century. 

The  *Cathedral,  or  church  of  S.  Eosalia  (PL  15;  generally 
closed  12-4  o'clock),  in  which  restorations  to  its  disadvantage  have 
been  undertaken  in  each  century  since  its  foundation,  was  erected 
in  1169-85  by  the  English  Archbishop  Walter  of  the  Mill  (Gualterio 
Offamilio)  on  the  site  of  a  more  ancient  church  which  had  been 
converted  into  a  mosque,  and  subsequently  been  reconverted  into 
a  Christian  place  of  worship.  The  crypt,  part  of  the  S.  side, 
and  the  E.  end  are  the  only  remaining  portions  of  the  original 
structure.  The  S.  portal,  added  in  1450,  is  an  approximation  to 
the  northern  Gothic  style.  The  W.  Facade,  with  the  principal  por- 
tal and  the  two  towers,  was  erected  in  1300-59.  In  1781-1801  the 
church  was  disfigured  by  the  addition  of  a  dome,  constructed  by 
Fernando  Fuga.  the  Neapolitan,  in  spite  of  the  remonstrances  of 
the  Sicilian  architects.  The  restoration  of  the  interior  was  un- 
dertaken by  the  same  architect. 

The  S.  Aisle  (left  of  the  S.  Portal)  contains  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings. 
Here,  in  sarcophagi  of  porphyry,    surmounted  by  canopies,    repose  :    King 


234      Route  21.  PALERMO.  Municipio. 

Eoger  (d.  1154) ;  his  daughter  Constance,  wife  of  Henry  VI.  (d.  1198) ;  his 
son-in-law  Henry  VI.  (d.  1197),  and  his  illustrious  grandson  Frederick  II. 
(d.  1250).  The  sarcophagus  of  the  latter  (the  first  on  the  left),  borne  by 
four  lions,  is  the  finest.  On  the  wall  to  the  right  of  the  mortuary  chapel 
are  recorded  the  privileges  granted  to  the  city  by  Frederick,  inlaid  in 
marble.  In  1781  the  sarcophagi  were  transferred  hither  from  a  chapel 
contiguous  to  the  choir ,  and  opened.  The  remains  of  Henry  VI.  and 
Constance  were  greatly  decomposed,  whilst  those  of  Frederick  II.  were  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation.  With  the  latter  the  remains  of  two  other 
bodies  were  found,  one  unknown,  the  other  probably  that  of  Peter  II.  of 
Arragon.  The  corpse  of  the  great  emperor  was  enveloped  in  sumptuous 
robes  with  inscriptions  in  Arabic  ;  beside  him  lay  the  crown  and  imperial 
apple,  and  his  sword.  (These  relics  are  preserved  in  the  sacristy,  at  the 
end  of  the  aisle,  and  are  most  conveniently  seen  between  9  and  10  a.  m. 
Visitors  ascend  the  steps  and  apply  to  one  of  the  chorister  boys ;  fee 
V2-I  fr.  on  leaving.) 

The  marble  sculptures  of  the  church  are  chiefly  by  Antonio  Gagini,  the 
finest  of  which  are  those  on  the  pilasters  of  the  Chapel  of  St.  Rosalia,  to 
the  right  of  the  high-altar.  Here  the  saint  reposes  in  a  sarcophagus  of  silver, 
1300  lbs.  in  weight,  exhibited  only  on  11th  Jan.,  15th  July,  and  4th  Sept. 
The  choir,  which  possesses  fine  old  carved  stalls,  is  separated  from  the 
church  by  a  marble  screen.  The  statues  in  the  niches,  Christ  and  the 
Apostles,    are    by    Oagini. 

The  Cktpt  beneath  the  choir,  containing  the  remains  of  the  arch- 
bishops, some  of  them  in  ancient  sarcophagi,  should  also  be  visited.  Here, 
among  others,  repose  Gualterio  Offamilio  ,  and  the  archbishops  Frederick 
and  Peter  of  Antioch,  both  of  Hohenstaufen  extraction. 

Proceeding  hence  by  the  Cohso  Vittokio  Emanuele  to  the 
N.E.,  towards  the  sea,  we  pass  on  the  left  a  building  which  was 
formerly  the  Collegio  Nuovo  (PI.  79)  of  the  Jesuits,  but  now 
contains  the  National  Library  (open  daily)  and  the  Lyceum.  We 
next  reach  on  the  right  the  small  Piazza  Bologni,  adorned  with  a 
statue  of  Charles  V.  by  Scipione  Livolsi  da  Susa.  To  the  W.  stands 
the  Palazzo  Villa  franca  •,  to  the  E.  the  Post-Office  (p.  229). 

Farther  on  we  come  to  the  Quattro  Canti ,  a  small  octagonal 
piazza,  situated  at  the  intersection  of  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele 
and  the  Via  Macqueda,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city.  It  was  con- 
structed by  the  viceroy  Marques  de  Villena  in  1609.  The  four 
facades  looking  towards  the  piazza  are  embellished  with  columns 
and  statues.  In  the  S.  angle  of  the  piazza  rises  the  richly  decorated 
church  of  S.  Giuseppe  de'  Teatini  (PI.  35). 

Passing  this  church,  we  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Via  Mac- 
queda, and  reach  one  of  the  most  interesting  quarters  of  the  town. 

On  the  left  side  of  this  street  is  the  Piazza  Pretoria  (PI.  C,  4), 
with  a  large  Fountain  erected  in  the  16th  cent,  by  the  viceroy 
Garcia  di  Toledo.  The  Palazzo  del  Municipio  (PI.  86)  here  con- 
tains on  the  ground-floor  Roman  inscriptions  and  monuments,  and 
in  the  large  saloon  on  the  first  floor  a  *statue  of  the  youthful  Dio- 
nysus, erroneously  called  Antinous.  Here  also  is  the  Palazzo  of 
the  Dura  di  Serradifalco . 

Farther  on,  in  a  small  piazza  on  the  left  side  of  the  Via  Mac- 
queda ,  is  the  former  Post-Office  (see  above),  within  the  precincts 
of  which  is  situated  the  deserted  church  of  S.  Cataldo,  an  interest- 


Martorana.  PALERMO.  24.  Route.      235 

ing   specimen    of   Sicilian-Norman  architecture ,  probably  erected 
before  1161  by  Count  Sylvester,   grandson  of  Duke  Roger  I. 

Adjacent ,  on  the  left ,  up  a  flight  of  steps ,  is  the  disused 
church  of  *la  Martorana  (PI.  54;  shown  daily  8-4  o'clock  ;  cus- 
todians bell  in  the  corner,  at  the  back  of  the  church;  fee  !/2-l  fr. ). 
It  was  erected  by  Georgios  Antiochenos,  grand-admiral  of  Roger  I. 
and  Roger  II.,  in  honour  of  the  Virgin  ,  during  the  first  half  of  the 
12th  cent.,  and  from  him  derived  its  original  name  of  8.  Maria  del 
Ammiraglio. 

The  church  was  originally  quadrangular,  with  three  apses  towards  the 
N.,  and  a  dome  borne  by  four  columns,  entirely  Byzantine  in  character, 
adorned  inside  and  out  with  mosaics.  In  1590  the  nuns  of  the  convent 
Martorana  (founded  in  1193,  and  in  1433  presented  with  the  church, 
whence  the  present  name)  caused  the  edifice  to  be  extended  towards  the 
W.  In  1685  the  central  apse  was  demolished  and  replaced  by  a  square 
chapel ,  and  in  1726  the  work  of  destruction  was  carried  still  farther  by 
the  removal  of  the  mosaics  from  the  walls.  The  church  is,  however,  now 
being  restored  in  accordance  with  the  ancient  plan.  Some  of  the  eight 
Corinthian  columns  bear  Arabic  inscriptions.  The  mosaic  to  the  left  of 
the  entrance  represents  the  admiral  Georgios  Antiochenos  at  the  feet  of 
the  Virgin  (the  lower  part  mutilated).  That  on  the  right  represents  King 
Roger  crowned  by  Christ.  The  original  mosaics  in  the  apses  on  the  right, 
and  left  and  those  in  the  dome  are  furnished  with  Greek  inscriptions.  — 
The  carved  door  near  the  custodian's  bell  is  also  of  the  Gorman-Arabian 
period.  — -  The  two  upper  stories  of  the  four-storied  campanile  date  from 
the  14th  century.  In  1726  the  dome  was  removed  in  consequence  of  the 
damage  done  by  an  earthquake. 

To  the  right  in  the  Via  Macqueda  is  situated  the  University 
(PI.  99).  —  In  the  adjacent  street,  to  the  right,  we  reach  the 
Casa  Professa  (PL  13),  with  the  Jesuits'  Church  ,  completed  in 
1683,  and  overladen  with  ornament.  Adjoining  it  is  the  Biblio- 
teca  Comunale  (PL  77),  entered  by  a  Doric  vestibule,  and  contain- 
ing a  most  valuable  collection  of  books  and  MSS.  relative  to  Sicilian 
history.  On  the  first  floor  is  the  'Historical  Hall',  open  daily 
from  9  to  2. 

Farther  on  in  the  Via  Macqueda ,  on  the  left,  we  reach  the 
extensive  Palazzo  Paternb  ,  with  handsome  arcades  in  the  court. 
About  1/4  M.  from  the  neighbouring  Porta  8.  Antonino  is  situated 
the  railway-station,  the  first  side-street  to  the  left  of  the  Via  Oreto 
(PL  A,  4). 

The  Via  Lincoln,  which  runs  from  the  Porta  S.  Antonino  to- 
wards the  sea,  passes  the  Porta  Qaribaldi  (PL  B,  4),  by  which  Ga- 
ribaldi entered  the  city  on  27th  May,  1860 ,  and  terminates  near 
the  Flora  on  the  Marina  (see  p.  238).  —  Not  far  from  the  Porta 
Garibaldi  is  the  disused  Teutonic  Lodge,  the  sadly  disfigured  church 
of  which  (La  Magione ;  PL  42)  was  founded  in  the  12th  cent, 
by  the  chancellor  Matteo  Ajello  of  Salerno ,  and  presented  to 
the  Order  by  Frederick  II. 

If  we  follow  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuei/e  ,  and  cross  the 
Quattro  Canti  in  the  direction  of  the  sea,  we  reach  after  5  min. 
the   Via  Cintorinaria,   a  transverse  street  to  the  right,   leading  to 


236      Route  2d.  PALERMO.  Town  Gates. 

S.  Francesco  d'Assisi  (PL  25),  in  the  piazza  of  that  name.  This 
church  is  a  Norman  structure ,  of  which  the  facade  now  alone 
remains.  It  contains  remains  of  frescoes  by  Pietro  Novelli ,  of 
which  that  over  the  entrance  is  the  best  preserved. 

About  3  min.  walk  farther  the  Corso  emerges  on  the  Largo 
della  Marina  ("PL  C,  5),  one  of  the  finest  in  Palermo,  adorned 
with  fountains  and  the  pleasure-grounds  of  the  *Giardino  Gari- 
baldi with  their  beautiful  palms.  To  the  left  is  the  new  gov- 
ernment Finance  Office.  In  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  piazza  is  situat- 
ed the  historically  remarkable  Palazzo  dei  Tribunali  (PL  98), 
erected  by  Manfred  Chiaramonte  in  1307.  Queen  Bianca  resided 
here  in  1410 ,  and  at  a  later  period,  down  to  1782,  victims  of 
the  Inquisition  were  confined  here.  The  building  is  now  occu- 
pied by  the  courts  of  justice  and  the  Dogana.  The  well-preserv- 
ed court  is  entered  through  the  latter. 

In  the  neighbouring  Via  Alloro  are  the  monastery  della  Gan- 
zia  (PL  28),  the  monks  of  which  have  taken  an  active  part  in 
every  revolution ,  including  that  of  1860 ,  and  the  Palazzo  Pa- 
tella, with  an  interesting  facade  of  1495. 

In  the  Gorso,  farther  on,  at  the  beginning  of  the  side-street  on 
the  left  which  leads  to  the  small ,  but  recently  deepened  harbour 
of  La  Cala ,  is  the  small  church  of  <S.  Maria  della  Catena  (PL  47), 
erected  in  1400  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  edifice.  The  facade,  in 
which  the  ancient  style  predominates,  exhibits  the  unusually 
depressed  form  of  arch  frequently  seen  in  S.  Italy  towards  the 
close  of  the  Gothic  period.  The  Loggia  overlooks  the  harbour 
of  La  Cala  ,  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  we  observe  the  fort 
of  Castellamare  (almost  entirely  destroyed  in  1860).  —  Contin- 
uing to  follow  the  Corso,  we  reach  the  Largo  di  S.  Spirito  (PL 
C,  6),  with  the  Conservatorio  (Foundling  Hospital ,  etc.)  of  that 
name,  founded  in  1608.  We  then  pass  through  the  Porta  Felice 
to  the  Marina  (see  p.  238). 

The  finest  of  the  other  churches  is  S.  Domenico  (PL  22), 
in  the  piazza  of  that  name,  erected  in  1640,  and  capable  of  ac- 
commodating 12,000  persons.  It  contains  several  good  pictures 
by  Pietro  Novelli  and  Vincenzo  Ainemolo,  and  many  monuments 
of  eminent  Sicilians. 

Not  far  from  this  point  is  the  suppressed  monastery  dei  Filippini 
all'  Olivella,  which  now  contains  the  *  Museo  Nazionale  of  Palermo 
(PL  82)  ,  a  collection  chiefly  famous  for  the  metopes  of  Selinunto, 
the  oldest  monuments  of  the  Greek  plastic  art  bearing  a  date.  The 
museum  is  open  daily,  10-3  (Sund.  11-3),  except  on  Mondays, 
public  holidays,  the  three  last  days  of  the  Carnival,  and  during 
Passion  Week.  Admission  1  fr.  ;  on  Sundays  gratis.  Some  of  the 
rooms  are  still  in  disorder,  and  the  present  arrangements  are  there- 
fore temporary. 

Ground  Floor.  We  first  enter  a  small  colonnaded  Coukt  with  ancient 
and    medieval   inscriptions    in    Latin,  Greek,   and  Arabic,  and  cippi  from 


Museum.  PALERMO.  24.  Route.     237 

tombs.  The  door  on  the  left  leads  to  the  collection  of  vases  and  to  the 
picture  gallery  above  (see  below).  An  adjacent  room ,  opposite  the 
entrance,  contains  sculptures  of  the  15th  -17th  cent.,  including  a  Madonna 
attributed  to  Gagini.  —  We  next  pass  through  Cloisteks,  along  the  walls 
of  which  are  placed  numerous  Etruscan  cinerary  urns  ,  etc.  (which  are  to 
be  transferred  to  the  room  mentioned  below),  and  reach  the    — 

'Collection  of  Ancient  Sculptures.  The  Antechamber  contains  two 
statues  of  Jupiter  from  Soluntum,  freely  restored,  a  Csesar  from  Tyndaris, 
and  several  tomb-cippi  and  sarcophagi.  We  then  pass  through  a  room 
with  several  basreliefs  to  the  so-called  Sala  del  Fauno.  In  the  centre  is 
a  young  Satyr,  pouring  out  wine  ,  from  Pompeii ;  633.  ^Esculapius  from 
Girgenti;  704.  Priestess  of  Isis  from  Taormina;  a  statue  of  Marcus  Aure- 
lius ,  Roman  busts ,  etc.  —  On  the  pavement  are  ancient  mosaics.  — 
Turning  to  the  left,  we  next  enter  the  — 

Principal  Saloon  ,  containing  the  celebrated  "Metopes  of  Seliims ,  the 
most  ancient  specimens  of  Greek  sculpture,  with  the  exception  of  the  lions  of 
Mycene  (comp.  Introd.,  p.  xxviii).  They  belong  to  different  periods.  The 
oldest,  dating  from  the  lirst  half  of  the  7th  cent.,  still  bear  traces  of  the  Orien- 
tal style  from  which  Greek  art  derives  its  origin.  1.  Quadriga  (combat  of  Pe- 
leus  and  (Enomaus) ;  2.  Perseus  slaying  the  Medusa ;  3.  Hercules  Melampygos 
with  the  Cercopes.  These  reliefs  belonged  to  the  central  temple  (C)  of  theW. 
hill  of  Selinus  (p.  249),  and  were  discovered  in  1823.  —  4.  and  5.  Fragments  of 
temple  F  of  the  Neapolis  of  Selinus,  representing,  as  is  conjectured,  a  contest 
between  the  gods  and  giants,  probably  coeval  with  those  from  the  temple  of 
.(Egina,  now  at  Munich.  6-10.  From  the  pronaos  and  posticum  of  temple 
E,  and  probably  belonging  to  the  5th  cent. :  "6.  Heracles  and  Hippolyta ; 
"7.  Zeus  and  Hera  on  Ida;  "8.  Diana  and  Actaeon ;  :!9.  Athene  and  the 
giant  Pallos  ;  10.  Apollo  and  Daphne,  erroneously  so  called.  These  were 
discovered  by  Cavallari  in  1831.  The  nude  portions  of  the  female  figures 
are  inlaid  in  white  marble.  In  1865  the  same  investigator  discovered 
another  fragment,  with  the  altar  of  Hera  from  temple  E,  a  Greek  in- 
scription, and  remains  of  the  statue  of  the  goddess.  —  On  the  right  and 
left  of  the  entrance  are  architectural  fragments  from  the  temple  at  Hi- 
mera;  then  an  inscription  from  Selinunto,  an  archaic  Venus,  an  archaic 
Minerva,  a  small  Marsyas  of  pavonazetto,  Greek  reliefs  and  fragments  of 
sculptures ,  and  Greeco-Phoenician  coffins  from  Cannita  near  Palermo.  — 
The  collection  of  Etruscan  sculptures  is  to  be  arranged  in  the  adjoining 
rooms,  which  are  still  in  disorder. 

We  now  return  to  the  first  colonnaded  court,  pass  through  the  door 
mentioned  above,  and  ascend  the  stairs  to  the  — 

First  Floor,  containing  the  collection  of  vases,  the  cabinet  of  coins, 
etc.  —  In  the  Fikst  Corkidok  (X.  side),  to  the  left  of  the  staircase,  at 
the  end,  is  "Hercules  overcoming  the  stag,  a  bronze  fountain-group  from 
Pompeii ;  in  the  cabinets  are  ancient  terracottas ,  small  bronzes,  metal 
mirrors,  Egyptian  antiquities,  etc.  —  At  the  end  of  the  corridor  opposite 
to  the  Hercules  is  the  famous  ::Ram  from  one  of  the  gates  of  ancient 
Syracuse  (the  fellow  to  which  disappeared  in  1848).  —  The  Second  Coit- 
bidok  (W.  side)  contains  Etruscan  terracottas ,  vases  ,  etc.  (Museo  Casuc- 
cini).  Adjoining  the  corridor  is  a  disused  chapel  containing  ecclesiastical 
vestments  of  the  17th  cent. ;  also  the  Cabinet  of  Coins ,  including  some 
ancient  and  modern  Sicilian  specimens,  antique  gold  trinkets,  and  a  few 
cut  stones;  then  a  room  with  works  of  modern  Sicilian  painters.  —  The 
Thikd  Cokkidok  (S.  side)  contains  Greek  and  Sicilian  vases.  In  the  cen- 
tre of  the  36th  Cabinet  are  'six  handsome  vases  from  Girgenti,  the  finest 
of  which  represents  the  "'Finding  of  Triptolemus ;  in  the  33rd  Cabinet  are 
archaic  vases  from  Selinunto ;  along  the  wall  are  vases  from  Lower  Italy  ; 
on  a  Pompeian  marble  table  are  three  vases  from  Gela.  Also  Pompeian 
mural  paintings,  tragic  and  comic  scenes.  —  The  contiguous  rooms  con- 
tain objects  of  Mediaeval  Art,  such  as  majolicas,  bronzes,  glasses,  wea- 
pons, etc.  —  We  now  ascend  to  the  — 

Second  Floor,  which  contains  the  Picture  Gallery,  a  collection  of  no 
great  importance  ,    but  useful  for  the  sake  of  ttie  review  il  affords  of  the 


238      Route  U.  PALERMO.  Museum. 

Sicilian  school  of  painting  (p.  225).  It  also  possesses  a  small  early 
Flemish  picture  of  great  value.  Most  of  the  pictures  aTe  from  suppressed 
churches  and  monasteries.  Their  arrangement  is  still  uncompleted.  (Ca- 
talogues for  the  use  of  visitors.) 

Those  in  the  Cobeidoes,  being  of  inferior  value,  need  not  detain  us 
long.  At  the  end  of  the  1st  (N.)  Corridor  is  the  Gabinetto  Gallo ,  a  col- 
lection of  unimportant  works  of  Sicilian  and  other  painters.  —  The  cor- 
ridors on  the  right  and  the  saloons  contain  the  principal  collection  of 
the  works  of  native  masters :  Camulio ,  Madonna ,  with  mosaic  frame ; 
numerous  unknown  altar-pieces  of  the  14th  and  15th  cent.,  the  chief  of 
which  is  a  Coronation  of  the  Madonna.  It  is  curious  to  observe  how 
long  the  Gothic  style  of  framing  these  altar-pieces  prevailed.  In  the  last 
corridor,  No.  554,  is  the  latest,  and  also  best,  of  the  whole  series,  bearing 
the  date  1492.  Then,  85.  Antonio  Crescenzio,  Madonna  enthroned,  and  sur- 
rounded by  six  saints   and   the   donor. 

The  Fikst  Room,  the  Sala  oVAinimolo ,  principally  contains  pictures 
by  that  master :  91.  Scourging  of  Christ,  with  the  inscription,  'expensis 
nationis  Lombardorum,  1542';  88-93.  Six  small  scenes  from  the  youth  of 
Christ,  including  (93.)  a  charming  Presentation  in  the  Temple  •,  97.  Curious 
representation  of  the  Madonna  as  the  deliverer  of  souls  from  purgatory; 
169.  St.  Conrad,  with  predella ;  '102.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  sombre  but 
harmonious  in  colouring,  tender  in  sentiment ,  and  admirably  executed, 
Aineniolo's  master-piece.  The  Coronation  of  the  Virgin  inscribed  'Scuola 
Messinese'  is  probably  of  German  origin ;  103.  St.  Thomas  Aquinas,  vic- 
torious over  the  heretic  Averrhoes ,  and  surrounded  by  a  numerous  con- 
gregation, by  Antonello  da  Saliba. 

The  Second  Room  ,  the  Sala  del  Novelli ,  is  chiefly  hung  with  works 
of  that  painter,  the  last  great  Sicilian  master,  of  whose  style  they  afford 
a  good  illustration :  120.  Portrait  of  himself;  110.  Madonna  enthroned,  with 
saints;  112.  Communion  of  Mary  Magdalene;  113.  SS.  Anna  and  Mary; 
114.  Delivery  of  Peter  from  prison.  194-196.  Remains  of  a  fresco  by 
Novelli  from  the  Spedale  Grande ;  195.  Coloured  sketch  of  the  same. 
Among  Novelli's  favourite  and  frequently  recurring  types  are  tall  and  al- 
most exaggerated  forms  which  strike  the  spectator,  especially  in  the  case 
of  female  figures,  but  in  his  delineation  of  characters  advanced  in  life 
he  rivals    the  best  masters  of  the  Neapolitan  school. 

The  gem  of  the  collection,  a  work  of  the  highest  merit,  is  preserved 
under  glass  in  the  Gabinetto  Malvagna,  adjoining  the  Sala  d'Ainemolo  : 
59.  A  small  ,::!  Altar-piece  with  wings  ,  or  triptych,  of  the  School  of  Van 
Eyck.  This  picture  would  not  be  unworthy  of  John  van  Eyck  him- 
self, but  the  clear  colouring  and  the  miniature-like  execution  point  to 
some  later  master  (perhaps  Gerhard  David).  When  the  shutters  are  closed 
the  spectator  is  presented  with  a  scene  of  Adam  and  Eve  in  a  richly 
peopled  Paradise.  Adam's  head  is  very  naturalistic,  but  the  figure  is  not 
inaccurately  drawn.  In  the  background  is  an  angel  driving  the  pair  out 
at  the  gate  of  Paradise.  On  the  wings  being  opened,  we  perceive  in  the 
central  scene  a  Madonna  in  a  red  robe,  enthroned  on  a  broad  Gothic 
choir-stall,  with  her  flowing  hair  covered  with  a  white  cloth.  In  her  lap 
is  the  Infant  Christ ;  on  each  side  of  her  are  angels  singing  and  playing  on 
instruments,  beautiful  and  lifelike  figures.  On  the  left  wing  is  represented 
SI .  Catharine,  on  the  right  wing  St.  Dorothea,  the  former  holding  up  a  richly 
executed  ring,  the  latter  with  white  and  red  roses  in  her  lap,  and  both 
with  angels  at  their  side.  The  delicate  execution  of  the  trinkets  on  the 
drapery  of  the  female  figures  and  the  pleasing  landscape  in  the  background 
as  far  as  the  extreme  distance  are  really  admirable.  This  is  one  of  the 
very  finest  works  of  the  early  Flemish  school.  It  formerly  belonged  to 
the  Marchese  di  Malvagna,  and  was  presented  to  the  museum  as  a  'Dii- 
rer1  The  brown  case,  covered  with  leather  and  adorned  with  Gothic  or- 
naments, is  probably  coeval  with  the  picture  itself.  —  This  cabinet  also 
contains:  60.  Garo/alo,  Madonna;  5.  Correggio,  Head  of  Christ  (a  sketch); 
35.    Van  Dyck,  Family  of  Rubens. 

About  1/4  M.  from  tlie  Porta  Maajueda  ^Pl.  B,  3,  4),   at  the  N. 


Marina.  PALERMO.  i>4.  Route.      239 

end  of  the  Via  Macqueda,  extends  the  Piazza  Ruggieko,  which  has 
recently  been  embellished  with  a  garden.  Statues  of  two  Sicilian 
patriots  have  recently  been  erected  here  :  on  the  right  that  of  Rug- 
yiero  Settimo  (d.  1862,  honorary  president  of  the  Italian  senate); 
on  the  left  that  of  Carlo  Cuttone ,  Principe  di  Castelnuovo  ,  who 
was  minister  in  1812 ,  during  the  brief  parliamentary  government 
of  Sicily  under  King  Ferdinand  which  was  inaugurated  by  the 
intervention  of  England.  —  About  */3  M.  farther  is  the  Giardino 
Inglese  (PI.  I,  4),  with  pleasant  grounds  ,  and  adorned  with  a  bust 
of  Garibaldi. 

Of  Mediaeval  Architecture  of  the  later  period  Palermo  pos- 
sesses many  interesting  examples  in  secular  buildings  scattered 
throughout  the  city.  Besides  the  Chiaramonte  (p.  236),  Sclafani 
(p.  233),  and  Patella  (p.  236)  palaces,  and  the  Gothic  window  of 
the  archiepiscopal  palace  (p.  233),  the  connoisseur  should  examine 
the  remains  of  a  palace  near  S.  Antonio  in  the  Via  delle  Ver- 
gini  (PI.  D,  4)  ,  those  in  the  Via  del  Protonotaro,  the  tower  ad- 
joining the  palace  of  the  Duca  di  Pietratagliata  (Via  Bandiera,  PI. 
D,  4),  and  that  of  the  Quaranta  Martiri  (in  a  side-street  of  that 
name ,  diverging  from  the  Via  Macqueda ,  not  far  from  the  uni- 
versity). 

A  beautiful  walk  is  afforded  by  the  'Marina,  a  quay  extending 
from  the  Porta  Felice  along  the  coast  towards  the  S.,  formerly  call- 
ed the  Foro  Borbonico ,  and  now  the  Foro  Italico  (PI.  C,  B,  A,  6), 
commanding  admirable  views  towards  the  S.  as  far  as  the  promon- 
tory of  Monte  Catalfano ,  and  to  the  N.  of  the  picturesque  Monte 
Pellegrino. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Marina  lies  the  *  Flora,  or  Villa  Giulia 
(PI.  B,  A,  6),  which  is  entered  from  the  Via  Lincoln  (p.  235),  a 
street  leading  towards  the  W.  to  the  Porta  8.  Antonino.  This  public 
garden,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Italy,  first  laid  out  in  1777, 
has  recently  been  considerably  extended  and  improved.  The  air 
here  in  spring  is  laden  with  the  delicious  and  aromatic  perfumes  of 
oranges,  citrons,  Erythrina  corallodendron,  Cercis  siliquastrum,  and 
other  blossoming  trees  and  shrubs. 

In  summer  and  autumn  the  fashionable  citizens  of  Palermo 
congregate  here  to  listen  to  a  band  of  music.  —  Adjoining  the 
Flora  is  the  Botanic  Oarden  (also  entered  from  the  Via  Macqueia), 
which  contains  many  fine  exotics  and  deserves  a  visit  both  from 
the  scientific  traveller  and  the  amateur ,  but  it  is  unfortunately  ill 
kept.  —  A  similar  institution  is  the  garden  for  acclimatisation  of 
plants  in  the  Stradone  di  Mezzo  Monreale  (p.  240). 

In  the  Piazza  dell'  Indipendenza  is  the  Palazzo  of  the  Dun 
d'Aumale,  with  a  well-kept  garden. 


240 


25.     Environs  of  Palermo. 

a.  La  Cuba.  Monreale.  S.  Martino.  La  Zisa. 

Distance  to  Monreale  about  4IJ2  M.  Monotonous  road  as  far  as  the 
point  where  it  begins  to  ascend  C^l't  M.  ;  carriage  2-21j2  fr.),  where  a  car- 
riage may  generally  be  found  for  the  return-journey.  The  ascent  of  the 
hill  thence  is  a  pleasant  walk  of  3|4  hr.  by  the  old  road.  Carriages  for 
the  excursion  may  also  be  hired  outside  the  Porta  Nuova  for  5  fr.  (in  the 
town  6  fr.),  including  a  stay  of  l>|2-2  hrs.  All  the  way  to  Monreale  the 
road  is  guarded  by  soldiers.  The  locandas  at  Monreale  are  very  poor; 
the  least  objectionable  is  that  opposite  the  cathedral.  The  beggars  and 
donkey-attendants  in  the  town  are  often  excessively  insolent.  Those  who 
purpose  proceeding  from  Monreale  to  S.  Martino  (p.  242) ,  about  3  M.  far- 
ther ,  will  do  well  to  take  a  supply  of  provisions  in  their  carriage.  Don- 
key 21|2-31j2  fr-  The  excursion  to  S.  Martino  is  hardly  safe  in  the  present 
state  of  the  country  without  an  escort.  One  of  the  officers  stationed  at 
Monreale  may  therefore  be  asked  for  a  couple  of  'bersaglieri'  (who  also 
serve  as  guides ;  4-5  fr.  for  both)  to  accompany  the  traveller  as  far  as 
Boccadifalco,  or  to  the  Palermo  road,  where  a  carriage  should  be  ordered 
to  be  in  waiting. 

Porta  Nuova  (PI.  C,  D,  1),  see  p.  232.  The  perfectly  straight 
prolongation  of  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele  leads  to  Monreale. 
On  the  right  is  situated  the  extensive  poor-house  [Albergo  de' 
Poverf). 

A  little  farther  on,  about  '/2  ^-  from  the  gate,  on  the  left,  is  a 
cavalry  barrack,  in  the  court  of  which  is  the  old  Saracenic  chateau 
of  La  Cuba.  (Visitors  apply  to  the  sentinel  and  walk  in.)  On  the 
frieze  is  a  now  illegible  Arabic  inscription,  from  which  it  is  con- 
jectured that  the  building  was  altered  by  William  II.  in  1181.  Of 
the  once  splendid  decorations  of  the  interior  nothing  now  remains 
but  a  few  blackened  remains  of  a  honey-combed  vaulting  in  a 
small  court.  The  palace  was  once  surrounded  by  an  extensive 
park  with  fish-ponds.  A  pavilion  once  belonging  to  it  is  now  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  street  in  the  garden  of  the  Cavaliere 
Napoli,  and  is  called  La  Cubola  (Decamerone,  v.   6). 

The  Strada  di  Piedimonte ,  which  diverges  to  the  right  about 
230  paces  farther  on,  leads  to  the  (Y4  M.J  Convento  de'  Cappucini, 
in  the  subterranean  corridors  of  which  are  preserved  the  mummi- 
fied bodies  of  wealthy  inhabitants  of  Palermo.  On  All  Souls'  Day 
(2nd  Nov. J  the  relatives  of  the  deceased  congregrate  here  in  great 
numbers.  This  sad,  but  not  uninteresting  spectacle  should  be  seen 
by  the  curious.  (The  route  hence  to  La  Zisa,  1/3  M.,  is  by  the 
Via  de'  Cipressi,  and  then  by  the  first  road  to  the  left.) 

On  the  left  side  of  the  Monreale  road  we  next  pass  the  Oiardino 
d'Aclimatizuzzione.  On  the  same  side,  ix\\  M.  from  the  Porta 
Nuova,  is  the  Swiss  lodge  at  the  entrance  to  the  charming  *  Villa 
Tasca  ,  the  property  of  Conte  Tasca ,  one  of  the  first  systematic 
farmers  of  Sicily,  who  possesses  an  experimental  station  here, 
and  has  surrounded  it  with  a  tasteful  garden  (visitors  ring  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Mower-garden  ;   5-10  soldi  to  the  porter  on  leaving). 

A    little    farther,     the    road,    constructed    by    the    celebrated 


MONREALE.  25.  Route.    2-11 

Archbishop  Testa  of  Monreale,  ascends  in  windings  to  the  'royal 
mount'  (1231  ft.),  on  which  in  1174  William  II.  founded  a 
Benedictine  abbey,  and  in   1174-89  erected  the  famous  — 

**  Cathedral  of  Monreale,  around  which  a  town  of  16,200 
inhab.  has  sprung  up  since  the  second  archbishopric  in  the  island 
was  transferred  hither. 

The  church  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  333  ft.  long  and 
131  ft.  wide  ,  with  three  apses  ,  and  consists  of  a  nave  and  two 
aisles.  The  entrance  is  flanked  by  two  square  towers.  The 
magnificent  portal  possesses  admirable  *  bronze  doors  dating  from 
1186,  executed  by  'Bonannus  Civis  Pisanus',  and  adorned  with 
reliefs  from  sacred  history.  The  bronze  doors  of  the  side-portals 
are  by  Barisano.  The  edifice  was  very  seriously  damaged  by  a  tire 
in  1811,  but  has  been  well  restored. 

'"Interior.  The  pointed  vaulting  of  the  nave  is  supported  by  eighteen 
columns  of  granite.  The  transept ,  approached  by  live  steps,  is  borne  by 
four  pillars.  The  pointed  vaulting  is  constructed  quite  in  the  Arabian 
style. 

The  -Mosaics  with  which  the  walls  are  entirely  covered  occupy  an 
area  of  70,400  sq.  ft.,  and  consist  of  three  different  classes:  scenes  from 
the  Old  Testament  (prophecies  of  the  Messiah) ,  from  the  life  of  the 
Saviour,  and  from  the  lives  of  the  apostles.  The  nave  contains  Old  Testa- 
ment subjects  down  to  the  Wrestling  of  Jacob  with  the  Angel,  in  two  rows 
of  twenty  tableaux.  Each  aisle  contains  nine,  and  each  transept  fifteen 
scenes  from  the  history  of  Christ.  On  the  arches  of  the  transept  are 
subjects  from  the  life  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul.  In  the  tribune  is  the  bust  of 
Christ  (with  the  inscription,  /.  Xq.  6  naviO'/^dzwQ) ;  below  it  a  Madonna  in 
Trono  with  two  angels  and  the  Apostles  at  the  side ;  under  these  are 
fourteen  saints.  In  the  niches  at  the  sides  Peter  and  Paul.  Above  the 
royal  throne  is  pourtrayed  King  William  in  the  act  of  receiving  the  crown 
direct  from  Christ  (not  from  the  pope !) ;  above  the  archiepiscopal  seat 
he  is  represented  as  offering  a  view  of  the  cathedral  to  the  Virgin.  — 
Sarcophagi  in  the  transepts  contain  the  remains  of  William  I.  and  his 
three  sons  Roger  (d.  1164),  Henry  (d.  1179),  and  William  II.  The  monu- 
ment of  the  latter  in  the  S.  aisle  was  erected  in  1575.  —  The  !K.  aisle 
contains  fine  wood-carving  in  high-relief.  Here,  too  ,  is  the  Cappella  del 
Crocefisso,  of  1690,  adjoining  which  is  the  Archiepiscopal  Chapel,  with 
wood-carving  from  the  history  of  the  Passion.  In  the  S.  aisle  is  the 
Cappella  di  S.  Benedetto,  with  reliefs  in  marble  of  the  18th  century. 
These  chapels  are  opened  by  the  verger. 

The  visitor  should  not  omit  to  ascend  to  the  roof  of  the  cathedral 
for  the  sake  of  the  "View  it  affords.  The  entrance  to  the  staircase  is  in 
a  corner  at  the  beginning  of  the  S.  aisle  (172  steps  to  the  top  ;  verger  V2  fr.). 

Adjoining  the  cathedral  is  the  Benedictine  Monastery,  which 
William  supplied  with  monks  from  La  Cava  (entrance  by  No.  33, 
the  large  central  door  in  the  piazza  which  lies  in  front  of  the 
church ;  custodian  !/2  'rJ-  Of  the  original  building  nothing  is 
now  left  except  the  remarkably  beautiful  *Cloisters,  the  pointed 
vaulting  of  which  is  adorned  with  mosaics  and  supported  by  216 
columns  in  pairs;  the  capitals  are  all  different,  and  the  shafts  also 
vary  (date  1200).  The  garden  commands  a  delightful  *Vie-w  of 
the  valley  towards  Palermo.  The  fragrance  of  the  orange-blossom 
here  in  spring  is  almost  overpowering.  The  modern  part  of  the 
monastery,  which  is  now  fitted  up  as  officers'  quarters,  and  which 
Baedeker.    Italy  III.    6th  Edition.  j[g 


242      Route  25.  S.  MARTINO.  Environs 

we  first  reach  from  the  piazza,  contains  a  handsome  marble 
staircase  adorned  with  pictures  by  Velasquez  (the  Sicilian)  and  by 
Pietro  Novelli  (Monrealese  ;  p.  226). 

From  Monreale  a  steep  path  to  the  right  (Le  Scale)  ascends  in 
1  hr.  to  the  top  of  the  hill  which  is  crowned  by  II  Castellaccio, 
a  deserted  fort  (10  min.  to  the  right  of  the  highest  point  of  the 
path),  commanding  an  extensive  view.  We  then  descend  to  the 
suppressed  Benedictine  monastery  of  S.  Martino ,  founded  by 
Gregory  the  Great  in  the  6th  cent.,  and  affording  another  line 
*view.  Handsome  entrance-hall.  The  monastery  is  now  occupied 
by  an  agricultural  institution. 

The  church  is  adorned  with  a  fresco  by  Ainimolo.  With  the  library 
of  the  monastery  is  connected  the  reminiscence  of  the  extraordinary 
historical  forgeries  of  the  Abbate  (rimse-ppe  Vella ,  who  had  founded  a 
history  of  Sicily  on  a  forged  Arabic  MS.,  but  was  detected  by  Hager  of 
Vienna,  the  Orientalist,  in  1794. 

From  San  Martino  we  descend  to  the  picturesque  valley  of 
Boccadifalco,  and  return  thence  to  Palermo.  To  the  left  is  the 
Convento  di  Baida,  founded  by  Manfred  Chiaramonte  in  1388  for 
the  Cistercians,  but  now  occupied  by  Franciscan  Minorites.  Here 
in  the  10th  cent,  lay  Baidhd,  a  Saracenic  village  which  was  con- 
nected with  Palermo  by  a  row  of  houses.  The  terrace  affords  a  fine 
view.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  not  easily  accessible  stalactite  cavern 
of  Quattro  Arce.  The  village  of  Altarello  di  Baida  contains  remains 
of  Mimnermum,  a  place  founded  by  Roger.  Farther  on,  we  reach 
the  Piazza  Olivuzza  (PI.  F,  G,  1),  where  the  *  Villa  Serradifalco, 
with  its  beautiful  grounds  and  luxuriant  vegetation  ,  is  situated. 
Adjoining  it  lay  the  celebrated  Villa  Butera,   now    Villa  Florio. 

A  few  paces  beyond  the  Porta  Nuora  (p.  232)  we  turn  to  the 
right  into  the  Via  della  Colonna  Rotta  ,  and  after  10  min.,  beyond 
the  small  triangular  Piazza  Ingastoni ,  we  take  the  Via  Zisa  to  the 
left  (comp.  PI.  D,  E,  1 ;  cab  1  fr.'),  which  leads  us  to  the  Saracenic 
chateau  of  *La  Zisa,  now  the  property  of  the  Marchese  Sangiovanni 
(about  1  M.  from  the  gate,  and  not  far  from  the  Piazza  Olivuzza 
already  mentioned).  The  only  remains  of  the  old  building,  which 
was  restored  by  William  I.,  are  a  covered  fountain  with  water  de- 
scending over  marble  steps  under  dilapidated  honeycombed  vaulting, 
and  some  vaulting  with  pigeon-holes  on  the  upper  floor.  The  flat 
roof  affords  a  very  favourite  **Vibw  of  Palermo.  (Entrance  by 
No.  29,  the  adjacent  court  on  the  right;  custodian  '/o  fr. )  —  The 
large  neighbouring  orange-gardens  arj  worthy  of  a  visit  on  account 
of  their  luxuriant  vegetation  (trifling  fee).  No.  25,  to  the  left  of 
La  Zisa,  is  a  good  wine-house. 

The  Catacombs  outside  the  Porta  Ossuna,  discovered  in 
1T.S0,  are  of  early  Christian,  or  perhaps  much  more  ancient 
origin.  t 


of  Palermo.  MONTE  PELLEGRINO.        25.  Route.      Z4d 

b.    Monte  Pellegrino.     The  Favorita. 

Distances.  From  the  Porta  S.  Giorgio  to  the  foot  of  Monte  Pelle- 
grino 2  M.  (one-horse  carriage  I'/ufr.);  theuee  to  the  top  i'/4  hr.  (donkey 
from  the  town  2  l'r.).  From  the  Porta  Macqueda  to  the  Favorita  4'|a  II. 
—  Enquiry  as  to  the  safety  of  the  roads  should  be  made  beforehand, 
hut  of  late  this  excursion  has  been  considered  tolerably  free  from 
hazard. 

'Monte  Pellegrino,  an  indescribably  beautiful  mass  of  rock,  consisting 
of  grey  limestone  of  early  formation,  rises  at  the  N.  W.  end  of  the 
1'ay  of  Palermo.  In  a  cavern  in  this  mountain  the  remains  of  St. 
Rosalia  (according  to  tradition,  a  niece  of  William  II.,  who  while  in  the 
lilooin  of  youth  had  lied  hither  from  motives  of  piety)  were  discovered  in 
1UU4,  and  conveyed  to  Palermo.  Their  presence  at  once  banished  the  plague 
then  raging,  and  from  that  time  St.  Kosalia  has  been  the  patron  saint  of 
the  city.  Chapels  were  erected  and  brilliant  festivals  instituted  in  her 
honour.  The  devout  undertook  pilgrimages  to  the  mountain.  A  pathway 
supported  by  buttresses  and  arches  leads  to  the  sacred  spot,  which  far 
better  befits  the  humility  of  the  saint  than  the  sumptuous  festivities  which 
are  celebrated  to  commemorate  her  retirement  from  the  world.1  —  Goethe. 

We  quit  Palermo  by  the  Porta  8.  Giorgio  (PI.  E,  F,  5,  and  I, 
5 ,  6).  The  drive  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  takes  less  than 
'/•2  hr-  —  On  the  right,  on  an  eminence  by  the  sea,  rises  the 
Villii  Belmonte,  which  commands  a  fine  view.  The  zigzag  path 
ascending  the  Monte  Pellegrino,  which  is  visible  from  the  town, 
cannot  he  mistaken.  Towards  the  top  it  becomes  easier.  Large 
herds  of  cattle  ,  horses ,  and  donkeys  graze  on  the  mountain  in 
spring. 

The  *  Monte  Pellegrino  (1958  ft.  J ,  the  peculiar  shape  of 
which  renders  it  easily  recognisable  from  a  great  distance,  is  an 
isolated  mass  of  rock,  nearly  surrounded  on  the  E.  side  by  the 
sea,  from  which  it  rises  abruptly,  and  on  the  W.  side  sloping 
more  gently  towards  the  Conca  d'Oro.  Down  to  the  15th  cent. 
the  mountain  was  clothed  with  underwood.  In  B.C.  247-41  11a- 
milcar  Barca  settled  on  the  mountain  with  his  soldiers  and  their 
families  in  order  to  keep  the  Roman  garrison  of  Panormus  in 
check,  and  corn  was  then  cultivated  here  on  the  Eircta.  Under 
an  overhanging  rock  of  the  summit  of  the  mountain ,  accessible 
from  the  opposite  side,  but  not  without  difficulty,  is  the  Grotto 
of  St.  Rosalia ,  now  converted  into  a  church  (dwelling  of  the 
'parroco'  on  the  left).  The  water  which  constantly  trickles  down 
the  sides  is  collected  and  carried  off  in  leaden  gutters. 

The  small  decorated  cavern  in  which  the  holy  maiden  performed  her 
devotions  is  shown  by  candle-light ;  in  front  of  it  is  a  recumbent  Statue 
vf  the  Saint  by  the  Florentine  (iregorio  Tedeschi ,  with  sumptuously 
gilded  robes.  'The  head  and  hands  of  white  marble,  if  not  faultless  in 
style,  are  at  least  so  natural  and  pleasing  that  one  can  hardly  help  ex- 
pecting to  see  the  saint  breathe  and  move/      (Goethe.) 

Beyond  the  chapel  a  path  leads  to  the  right  past  some  dirty 
cottages  to  the  Survey  Station  ory  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
which  commands  an  admirable  *Vikw  of  the  beautiful  basin 
around  Palermo.  —  A  path  to  the  left,  before  the  houses  are 
reached,    leads    in    '2U  min.    to    a    small    temple  with    a  colossal 

16* 


244      Route  25.  BAG  AM  A.  Environs 

statue  of  the  saint,  the  head  of  which  is  said  to  have  been  struck 
olf  by  lightning.      View  hence  towards  the  sea. 

Good  walkers  may  now  descend  by  goat-paths  towards  the  S.  W. 
direct  to  the  Favorita;  others  will  prefer  to  retrace  their  steps  and  de- 
scend by  the  same  path. 

In  the  Conca  d'Oro,  at  the  base  of  Monte  Pellegrino  on  the 
S.  side,  and  4  M.  from  the  Porta  Maequeda,  is  situated  the 
royal  chateau  of  La  Favorita,  surrounded  by  numerous  villas  of 
the  aristocracy  of  Palermo.  (A  'permesso',  procurable  at  the 
hotels,  is  necessary  for  the  chateau  itself,  but  not  for  the  park.) 
This  beautiful  country-residence,  erected  by  Ferdinand  IV.  in  the 
Chinese  style,  is  hung  with  innumerable  little  bells,  and  surround- 
ed by  winding  walks  planted  with  box. 

Travellers  interested  in  agriculture  may  proceed  thence  to 
the  Istituto  Ayrario,  founded  by  Carlo  Cuttone,  Principe  di  Castel- 
miovo  (p.  239). 

c.    Bagaria.  Solunto. 

Railway  to  Bagaria  (Girgenti  line),  three  trains  daily  (fares  1  fr.  50, 
1  fr.  5,  or  75  c.).  Station  outside  the  Porta  S.  Antonino  (PI.  A,  4). 
Travellers  starting  by  the  first  train  may  inspect  the  most  interesting 
points  of  Solunto  and  Bagaria,  and  continue  their  journey  by  the  next 
train  to  Termini  (p.  263).  —  Carriage  for  the  excursion  8-10  fr. 

A  short  distance  from  the  town  the  railway  crosses  the 
Oreto,  beyond  which,  to  the  left  below  us,  we  observe  the  lofty 
arch  of  the  now  abandoned  Ponte  deW  Ammiraglio  ,  constructed 
in  1113  by  the  admiral  Georgios  Antiochenos.  Immediately  ad- 
joining it  are  the  ruins  of  the  most  ancient  Norman  church  in 
Sicily,  San  Giovanni  dei  Leprosi,  founded  by  Roger.  Here, 
in  B.  C.  251  ,  the  consul  Metellus  defeated  the  Carthaginians, 
and  captured  120  elephants.  In  the  neighbouring  bay  Duquesne 
nearly  annihilated  the  united  Dutch  and  Spanish  fleets  in  1673. 
In  the  fertile  coast  district  the  Saracens  once  cultivated  the 
sugar-cane.     On  the  right  rises  the  Monte  Griffone. 

5  M.    Fic.arazelli,   6  M.    Fir.arazzi. 

8  M.  Bagaria,  or  Bagheria.  a  country-town  with  11,600  inhab., 
contains  groups  of  palatial  villas  of  Sicilian  nobles,  now  deserted. 
The  Palazzo  Valguarnera  merits  a  visit  for  the  sake  of  the  magni- 
ficent view  it  commands.  The  Villa.  Butera,  Villa  Patagonia,  and 
others    contain  a  few  fantastic  works  of  art  in  bad  taste. 

10  M.  Santa  Flania.  Phoenician  tombs,  which  may  be  regarded 
as  embryo  catacombs,  were  discovered  here  in  1864.  —  (Journey 
hence  to  Termini  and  Lercara,   see  p.  259.) 

Leaving  the  station,  we  cross  the  line  to  the  right,  pass  through 
the  last  house  on  the  left,  traverse  an  olive-garden,  and  follow  a 
good  path  leading  in  1/2  nr-  to  tne  ruins  of  the  Phoenician  strong- 
hold of  Soloeis,  or  Soluntum ,  afterwards  called  Solanto,  and  now 
Solunto,  situated  on  the  eastmost  hill  of  the  promontory  of  Catal- 


of  Palermo.  S.  MARIA  DI  GESU.  25.  Route.      245 

fnno.  The  period  of  its  destruction  ,  probably  by  the  Saracens, 
cannot  now  be  determined.  The  ancient  paved  causeway,  ascend- 
ing the  hill  in  zigzags  ,  has  been  brought  to  light ;  on  each  side 
are  houses,  among  which  is  the  so-called  Gymnasium,  a  court  with 
colonnade  of  two  stories  (custodian  1/2-l  fr.).  Admirable  *view 
from  the  summit,  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  of  Zeus,  -where 
the  statue  of  Zeus  now  in  the  museum  at  Palermo  was  found. 
A  house  with  mural  paintings  here  deserves  inspection.  Towards 
the  E.,  where  the  Tonnara  di  Solunto  (tunny-fishery,  p.  259)  is 
situated,  lay  the  harbour  of  the  town. 

Good  walkers  may  descend  the  steep  hill  to  Bagaria  by  a  direct 
footpath,  and  visit  the  villas  there.    Thence  to  the  station  V/o  M. 

Farther  up  the  brook  Bagaria  (the  ancient  Eleutherus),  i  M. 
to  the  E.  of  PorteUa  di  Mare,  once  lay  a  large  Phoenician  town, 
afterwards  a  Saracenic  stronghold,  called  Kasr-Sfid,  now  the  village 
of  Cannitn.  The  Graeco-Phumician  sarcophagi  of  the  museum  of 
Palermo  were  found  here. 

d.    S.  Maria  di  Gesii. 

Distance  from  the  Porta  S.  Antonino  2'|2  M.:  one-horse  carriage  2^2  fr. 

Leaving  Palermo  by  the  Porta  S.  Antonino,  we  follow  the  Via 

Oreto  (PI.  A,  3,  4),  which  leads  between  houses  for  some  distance. 

After  3/4  >I.  the  road  describes  a  sharp  curve  to  the  right,  -while 

walkers  may  proceed  straight  on  in  the  same  direction. 

*S.  Maria  di  Gesil  (163  ft.  above  the  sea),  formerly  a  Minorite 
monastery,  and  now  a  barrack  ,  commands  one  of  the  finest  views 
of  Palermo,  with  the  Monte  Pellegrino  in  the  background,  and  is  a 
favourite  point  with  artists  and  photographers.  The  cemetery  of 
the  monastery,  now  enlarged,  contains  the  burial-places  of  many 
Palermo  families,  and  is  traversed  by  the  road.  Above  it  we  open 
an  iron  gate  on  the  left  in  order  to  ascend  to  the  dilapidated  loggia 
of  a  conspicuous  chapel,  which  is  the  finest  point  of  view. 

In  the  ilonte  Griffone,  not  far  from  S.  Maria  di  Gesii,  is  the  Grotla 
fle°  Giganti,  containing  fossil  hones. 

On  the  way  back  to  Palermo,  to  the  right  of  the  road,  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  Saracenic-Norman  chateau  of  La  Favara,  now  Marc  Dolce, 
the  magnificence  of  which  has  been  highly  extolled  by  Arabian  and  Jewish 
travellers  of  the  middle  ages,  and  where  Frederick  II.  held  his  court.  To 
the  left,  as  we  approach  the  town,  extends  the  Cmnpo  di  S.  Spirito,  the  old 
cemetery,  laid  out  in  1782.  (The  new  cemetery  lies  on  the  N.  side  of  31. 
Pellegrino.)  In  1173  Walter  of  the  3H11  founded  a  Cistercian  monastery 
here,  and  near  it,  on  31st  Slarch,  1282,  began  the  massacre  of  the  Sicilian 
Vespers,  during  which  the  bell  of  S.  Giovanni  degli  Eremiti  was  tolled. 

From  Palermo  an  excursion  may  be  made  by  steamboat  (on  two  Sun- 
days of  each  month,  fare  7>|2  fr.)  to  the  island  of  Ustica,  37'|2  M.  distant, 
and  10  M.  in  circumference.  Its  principal  mountains  are  the  Falroniera 
on  the  E.  and  the  Quadriga  di  Mezzo  (3411  ft.)  to  the  W.  The  island 
was  colonised  by  the  Phoenicians  in  ancient  times,  and  was  subsequently 
taken  by  the  Romans.  During  the  middle  ages  it  was  but  thinly  peopled. 
As  lately  as  1762  the  whole  population  was  murdered  or  carried  off  by  pi- 
rates. The  number  of  inliab.  is  now  2231.  The  caverns  here  are  inter- 
esting to  geologists.     Fossil  eonchylia  are  also   found  in  the  island. 


216 


26.     From  Palermo  to  Segesta,  Castelvetrano,    and 
Selinunto. 

This  is  the  direct  route  to  the  ruins  of  Segesta  and  Selinunto.  1st  Dav  : 
To  Calatafimi  (40  M.).  2nd  Day:  To  Segesta,  4  31.  from  Calatafimi,  and 
back;  then  to  Castelvetrano  (27  M.).  3rd  Day:  To  Selinunto,  and  beyond 
it,  see  R.  27.  —  The  Diligence  leaving  Palermo  at  4  p.  m.  arrives  at  Ca- 
latafimi at  3.  30  a.  in.,  where  it  corresponds  with  another  to  Castelvetrano, 
which  is  reached  in  4-5  hrs.  (To  Trapani,  see  p.  251.)  In  the  reverse 
direction:  departure  from  Castelvetrano  12  noon;  arrival  at  Calatafimi 
4  p.m.;  departure  thence  10.30  p.  m.:  arrival  at  Palermo  9  a.m.  —  For 
a  carriage  with  three  horses  from  Palermo  to  Castelvetrano  and  Selinunto 
the  charge  is  70  fr.  and  a  gratuity.  The  excursion  to  Segesta  alone  in  a 
hired  carriage  takes  nearly  three  days  (about  60  fr.  and  fee),  as  the  direct 
road  from  Alcamo  to  Segesta  is  generally  unsafe. 

With  the  aid  of  the  steamer,  the  excursion  to  Segesta  and  Trapani 
may  be  arranged  thus  :  —  1st  Day,  to  Calatafimi ;  2nd  Day,  to  Segesta,  and 
by  diligence  to  Trapani ;  3rd  Day ,  to  Monte  S.  Giuliano ;  4th  Day,  by 
steamer  from  Trapani  back  to  Palermo.  Or  in  the  reverse  direction,  by 
steamboat   to  Trapani    and    back  to  Palermo   by    diligence. 

The  Steamehs  of  the  Florio  Co.  leave  Palermo  on  Saturdays  at  or 
after  9  a.  m.,  and  arrive  at  Trapani  about  3.  30  p.  m.;  they  start  again 
at  midnight  and  touch  alternately  at  Marsala  and  at  Mazzara;  then  on 
every  trip  at  Seiacca,  Sund.  10  a.  m.;  Girgenti,  Sund.  2  p.  m.;  Licata,  Sund. 
6  p.  m.:  and  Terranova,  Mond.  5  a.  m.:  arrival  at  Syracuse  Mond  6  p.  m. 
—  In  the  reverse  direction:  departure  from  Syracuse,  Tues.  8  p.  m.;  arrival 
at  Licata ■■ ,  Wed.  5  a.  m.;  at  Girgenti,  Wed.  7.  30  a.  m.:  at  Sciacca,  Wed. 
4  p.  m.;  at  Mazzara,  Thurs.  5  a.  m.,  or  at  Marsala;  at  Trapani,  Thurs. 
10  a.  m.;  at  Palermo,  Thurs.  evening.  As,  however,  the  S.  coast  of  Sicily 
is  difficult  to  navigate,  the  punctuality  of  the  steamers  cannot  be  de- 
pended on. 

From  Palermo  to  Monreale,  4'/2  M.,  see  pp.  240,  241.  After 
another  hour's  drive  the  ascent  becomes  more  rapid.  At  the  point 
where  the  road  turns  to  the  W.  we  enjoy  a  beautiful  retrospective 
view  of  Palermo  and  the  valley  of  the  Oreto,  beyond  which  lie  the 
Lipari  Islands  in  the  distance.  Farther  on  we  enter  a  small  basin, 
and  in  2l/i  hrs.  from  Monreale  we  reach  the  culminating  point  of 
the  road,  beyond  which  we  descend  through  a  bleak  rocky  valley, 
with  a  view  of  the  fertile  plain  of  Partinico  and' Alcamo  and  of  the 
mountains  of  the  peninsula  of  S.  Vito. 

lo'/2  M.  Borghetto,  a  town  with  6000  inhab.,  lies  in  a  richly 
cultivated  district.  The  Due  d'  Aumale  possesses  large  and  admir- 
ably managed  estates  in  this  neighbourhood. 

Vilj-2  M.  Partinico  (Locanda  della  Bambina),  a  country-town 
with  20,000  inhab.,  where  the  escort  usually  leaves  the  diligence, 
the  country  beyond  this  point  being  considered  safe. 

Beyond  the  mountain-chain  which  towers  to  the  N.  of  Partinico  (Mlc. 
Belvedere  and  Mle.  Orso) ,  not  far  from  the  sea,  is  situated  Carini,  once 
the  free  Sicanian  town  of  Iliiceiira,  whence  in  415  the  Athenians  are  said 
to  have  carried  off  the  afterwards  so  celebrated  courtezan  Luis,  then  a 
girl  of  12  years. 

Beyond  Partinico  the  road  passes  the  dreary  village  of  Vnlgunr- 
nera.  The  conical  mountain  to  the  left,  adjoining  M.  Mitro 
(3546  ft.),  is  the  Pizzo  di  Murabella.  The  road  then  traverses 
several  deep  ravines. 


SEGESTA.  Route  25.   247 

30  M.  Alcamo  {Albergo  Italiano,  in  a  side-street,  opposite  the 
cathedral ;  Locanda  della  Fortuna ;  both  tolerable  ;  *Cafe  opposite 
the  post-office),  a  town  of  Arabian  origin,  with  21,000  inhab. 
(853  ft.  above  the  sea-level).  In  1223 ,  after  an  insurrection, 
Frederick  II.  substituted  a  Christian  for  the  Saracenic  population, 
but  the  town  still  has  a  somewhat  Oriental  appearance.  Above 
it  rises  the  Mte.  Bonifalo,  or  della  Madonna  dell'  Autu  (Alto; 
2713  ft.),  whence  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  Bay  of  Castella- 
mare  is  obtained.  The  house  pointed  out  here  as  that  of  Ciullo 
d' Alcamo,  the  earliest  Sicilian  poet  (13th  cent.),  is  of  much  later 
origin. 

From  Alcamo  the  road  descends  into  the  valley  of  the  Fiume 
Freddo,  the  ancient  Crimissus,  on  the  upper  part  of  which,  in 
B.C.  340,  Timoleon  with  11,000  men  defeated  70,000  Cartha- 
ginians who  were  crossing  the  river. 

On  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  not  far  from  its  mouth,  lies  Castella- 
mare (11,300  inhab.),  which  gives  its  name  to  the  bay  between  the  pro- 
montory of  S.  Vito  on  the  W.  and  that  of  Rama  on  the  E.  It  was  once 
the  seaport  of  Segesta,  and  now  carries  on  a  considerable   trade. 

The  road  now  ascends  from  the  Fiume  Freddo  to  — 

40  M.  Calatafimi  (Locanda  di  Matteo ,  poor;  Albergo  Gari- 
baldi alia  Piazza  Maggiore;  bargaining  necessary  at  both),  a  town 
with  9400  inhabitants.  If  we  ascend  the  principal  street,  a  good 
footpath  diverging  to  the  right  beyond  the  town  will  lead  us  to  the 
top  of  the  hill  occupied  by  the  Castle.  Fine  *view  hence  of  the 
temple,  the  town  below,  and  the  extensive  mountainous  landscape 
in  the  environs. 


From  Calatafimi  to  Segesta,  a  ride  of  iy4  hr. 

The  whole  excursion  takes  4-5  hrs.;  mule  or  donkey  4-5  fr.  —  The 
road  is  good,  but  very  steep  towards  the  end.  Good  water  and  some- 
times tolerable  wine  may  be  procured  from  the  custodian  near  the  temple. 

The  best  route  is  by  the  Castellamare  road,  descending  a  beau- 
tiful, well-watered  valley.  Beyond  a  mill,  at  a  point  iy2  M.  from 
Castellamare,  we  diverge  by  a  narrow  road  to  the  left.  We  cross 
the  fiumara,  and  ride  in  the  direction  of  the  custodian's  house  on 
the  hill.  We  may  now  ascend  the  Monte  Barbaro,  visit  the  theatre, 
and  descend  to  the  temple,  among  the  columns  of  which  we  rest 
for  luncheon. 

Segesta,  originally  Egesta,  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in 
the  island,  was  not  of  Greek  origin,  and  though  completely  Hellen- 
ised  after  the  lapse  of  centuries,  it  was  incessantly  engaged  in  war 
with  its  Greek  neighbours. 

The  Greeks  entertained  the  unfounded  opinion  that  the  Egestans  were 
descended  from  the  Trojans,  who  settled  here  near  the  warm  springs  of 
the  Scamander  (Fiume  Gdggera),  and  had  combined  with  the  Elymi  so  as 
to  form  a  distinct  people.  Daring  the  Roman  period  the  tradition  accord- 
ingly arose  that  the  town  was  founded  by  -Eneas.  The  ancient  town  ex- 
perienced the  most  disastrous  vicissitudes.  Oppressed  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Selinus,  the  Egestans  invited  the  Athenians  to  their  aid,  and  after  the 


248      Route  20.  CASTELVETRANO.  From  Palermo 

defeat  of  the  latter  at  Syracuse,  they  surrendered  to  the  Carthaginians, 
who  destroyed  Selinus  and  Egesta  also.  After  that  period  the  temple 
remained  uncompleted.  The  town,  however,  recovered,  and  hoped  to  throw 
off  the  Carthaginian  yoke  by  seeking  the  co-operation  of  Agathocles  ;  hut 
the  tyrant  on  his  return  from  an  expedition  against  Carthage  massacred 
the  ill-fated  inhabitants  on  the  banks  of  the  Scamander  in  order  to  appro- 
priate their  treasures,  whilst  others  were  sold  as  slaves.  The  town  was 
then  named  Dicseopolis.  During  the  First  Punic  War  the  inhabitants  allied 
themselves  with  the  Romans  and  changed  the  name  of  their  town  from 
the  ill-  >mened  Egesta  (egcstas)  to  Segesta.  The  Romans,  out  of  vene- 
ration for  the  ancient  Trojan  traditions,  accorded  them  some  assistance. 
Verrt  s  despoiled  the  town  of  the  bronze  statue  of  Demeter,  which  had  once 
been  carried  off  by  the  Carthaginians  and  restored  by  Scipio  Africanus. 
The  ruins  still  in  existence  are  the  following  :  — 

The  ** Temple,  situated  on  a  hill  outside  the  town  (904  ft. J, 
is  a  peripteros-hexastylos  of  thirty-six  columns ,  hut  was  never 
completed.  The  columns  are  therefore  unfluted,  the  steps  of  the 
hasement  unfinished,  and  the  cella  not  hegun.  In  other  respects 
it  is  one  of  the  hest  preserved  Doric  temples  in  Sicily,  and  its 
simple  but  majestic  outlines  in  this  desolate  spot  are  profoundly 
impressive.  Length,  including  the  steps,  200,  width  85  ft.,  height 
of  columns  with  capitals  29  ft.  and  thickness  6  ft.,  intercolumnia 
8  ft.  in  width.  As  the  architraves  were  beginning  to  give  way, 
they  were  secured  where  necessary  with    iron  rods   in   1865. 

The  town  itself  lay  on  the  M.  Barbara.  The  interesting 
*Thkatre  commands  a  beautiful  view.  Before  us,  beyond  the  stage, 
rises  M.  Inice  (3491  ft.),  more  to  the  left  is  the  M.  Sparagio 
(3704  ft. J,  to  the  right  is  the  so-called  Bosco  di  Calatafimi,  and 
lower  down  the  valley  of  the  Scamander  (Gaggera)  are  the  remains 
of  the  Thermae  Seyestanae,  supplied  by  four  different  warm  springs 
which  the  road  to  Alcamo  passes.  The  diameter  of  the  theatre, 
which  is  hewn  in  the  rock,  is  205  ft.,  that, of  the  stage  90  ft., 
and  of  the  orchestra  53  ft.  The  seats  are  divided  into  seven  cunei, 
and  separated  by  a  praecinctio .  The  twentieth  row  from  the  'pra- 
cinotio'  is  furnished  with  backs.  A  few  remains  of  houses  with 
Roman  and  Greek  mosaic  pavements  have  recently  been  excavated. 

The  temple  commands  a  distant  view  of  the  field,  indicated  by 
crosses,  where  Garibaldi  gained  the  victory  of  15th  May,  I860.  A 
monument  is  to  be  erected  on  the  spot. 

From  Calatafimi  to  Castelvetrano  ,  25  M.  The  route  is 
monotonous  and  historically  uninteresting. 

44  M.  Vita.  48'/2  M.  Salemi,  a  town  with  14,100  inhab., 
commanded  by  a  ruined  castle.    The  scenery  improves  near  — 

591/.;  \[  Castelvetrano  (623  ft),  Sicil.  Casteddu  Vetranu 
{Locundd  delta  Pantera,  tolerable,  charges  according  to  bargain; 
*('affe  and  Trattoria  di  Seiinunto,  in  the  Piazza),  a  provincial 
town,  with  20,000  inhab.  who  are  hereditary  tenants  of  the  fertile 
district  around  the  town,  the  property  of  the  dukes  of  Monteleone 
(of  the    family    of    Aragona  -  Pi^natelli).       The   campanile    of   the 


to  Selinunto.  SELINUNTO.  26.  Route.      249 

church  adjoining  the  Palazzo  Monteleone  affords  the  best  panorama 
of  the  surrounding  plain.  The  church  of  S.  Giovanni  contains  a 
statue  of  John  the  Baptist  by   Gagini. 


From  Castelvetkano  to   Selinunto,   llj-i  M.   (a  new  road). 

A  ride  of  2'|'.>  hrs.  (Mule  there  and  back  2  fr.,  and  an  additional 
sum  for  food  and  gratuity.)  —  A  custodian  is  generally  to  be  found  at 
the  Acropolis  (previous  enquiry  may  be  made  at  C.astelvetrano)  but  his 
services  may  well  be  dispensed  with.  A  supply  of  refreshments  should 
be  taken  for  the  journey. 

Architects  or  others  intending  to  make  a  prolonged  stay  at  Selinunto 
may  obtain  accommodation  at  the  country  house  near  the  kPileri  dei  Gi- 
ganti",  by  permission  of  Don  Giovanni  Viviani  at  Castelvetrano,  the  super- 
intendent of  Selinunto.  An  introduction  by  Cav.  Cavallari,  the  director 
of  the  excavations  at  Palermo,  is  also  desirable. 

We  follow  the  Sciacca  road,  and  then  diverge  to  the  right  to  the 
ruined  temples  of  the  Neapolis  on  the  K.  hill.  In  order  to  reach 
the  Acropolis,  we  may  either  cross  the  valley,  which  is  marshy 
after  rain,  in  a  straight  direction  or  cross  the  sand-bank  as  near  the 
sea  as  possible. 

**Selinus,  among  whose  ruins  are  the  grandest  ancient  temples 
in  Europe ,  was  founded  in  6o0  or  628  by  colonists  from  Megara 
Hyblsea  tinder  Pammilus,  and  was  the  most  western  settlement  of 
the  Hellenes  in  Sicily.  On  an  eminence  by  the  sea,  100  ft.  in 
height,  to  the  E.  of  the  river  Selinus  (Mudiuni),  Pammilus 
erected  the  Acropolis,  behind  which,  more  inland,  he  placed  the 
town  itself.  On  the  opposite  hill,  separated  by  a  marshy  valley 
(Gorgo  di  CotoneJ,  the  credit  of  having  drained  which  is  said  to 
be  due  to  the  philosopher  Empedocles,  the  Neapolis  was  founded 
in  the  6th  century.  The  Selinuntians  were  still  engaged  in 
the  construction  of  the  temples  of  the  latter  when  Hannibal 
Gisgon  destroyed  the  town  in  409.  The  conflicts  between  the 
Selinuntians  and  Egestans ,  whose  territories  were  contiguous, 
afforded  the  Athenians,  and  afterwards  the  Carthaginians,  a  pre- 
text for  interfering  in  the  affairs  of  Sicily.  Hannibal  attacked 
the  town  with  100,000  men.  Help  from  Syracuse  came  too 
late;  16,000  inhabitants  were  put  to  the  sword,  and  faOOO  car- 
ried off  to  Africa  as  captives;  2600  only  effected  their  escape  to 
Acragas.  From  that  blow  Selinus  never  recovered.  Hermocrates, 
the  exiled  Syracusan  patriot,  founded  a  colony  here  in  407,  but 
under  the  Carthaginian  supremacy  it  never  attained  to  prosperity, 
and  in  the  First  Punic  War  it  was  finally  destroyed.  Since  that 
period  it  has  remained  deserted,  as  the  district  is  unhealthy  in 
summer.  The  temples  alone  were  not  entirely  abandoned ,  for 
in  the  early  Christian  period  cells  were  formed  between  the 
buttresses  and  occupied  as  dwellings.  The  Mohammedans  called 
the  place  Knhl-el-Aswtm,  or  Village  of  the  Idols',  and  here 
they  resisted  the  attacks  of  King  Roger.  It  cannot  now  be  as- 
certained   when    the    columns    were  overthrown.     The    temple  G 


250      Route  26. 


SELINUNTO. 


only  appears  to  have  been  destroyed  by  human  agency;  the 
ruin  of  the  others  was  probably  caused  by  an  earthquake.  The 
sculptures  found  here  belonging  to  the  temples  are  now  in  the 
museum  at  Palermo  (p.  237). 

On  the  W.  hill  lie  the  ruins  of  four  temples,  which  in  the 
direction  from  S.  to  N.  (according  to  Serradifalco)  we  shall  desig- 
nate by  the  letters  A,  B,  C,  D,  and  the  three  on  the  E.  hill,  also 
from  S.  to  N.,  by  the  letters  E,  F,  and  G.  The  measurements  are 
given  approximately  in  English  feet. 


Length  of  temple  includ 

nig  steps 
ng  steps 

A. 

129 

57 

B. 

33 

c. 

231 

D. 

190 

E. 

229 

F. 

216 

G. 

372 

Width  of  temple  includi 

19 

85 

91 

90 

92 

175 

Height  of  columns  with 

capitals  . 

- 

— 

29 

- 

33 

30 

57 

103|4 

33|4 

- 

13 

23|4 

4 

2»|, 

Height  of  entablature  (t 

•abeazione) 

9 

- 

121/3 

12i|2 

15 

15'|j 

19 

5 

)     63|4 

8'|2 

73|4 

8>|2 

103), 

91 

- 

131 

118 

165 

125 
27 

272 

Width  of  cella 

28 

3i 

28 

47 

76 

A.  Peripteros-hexastylos,  14  columns  on  each  side,  2  in  the  pronaos, 
2  in  the  posticum,  and  2  pilasters. 

B.  A  small  structure,  ascribed  to  Hermocrates. 

C.  Hexastylos-peripteros,  with  17  columns  on  each  side.  The  Metopse 
1,  2,  and  3  in  the  museum  at  Palermo  were  found  here.  This 
temple  was  the  most  important  of  those  on  the  Acropolis.  In  front 
of  it  terminates  the  Via  Sacra  which  ascends  the  mountain,  the 
gateway  of  which  may  still  be  traced.  Part  of  the  ruined 
wall,  however,  appears  to  have  been  constructed  at  a  later  date 
(probably    407)    with    stones    from    the    temples. 

D.  Hexastylos-peripteros,  with  15  columns  on  each  side.  Here  the 
jUetopse  6-10,  3  in  the  pronaos,  and  2  in  the  posticum,  were  found 
by  Cavallari  in  1831. 

F.  Hexastylos-peripteros,    with  14  columns  and    double  porticus.     The 
objectless  re-erection  of  one  of  the  columns  has  lately  been  begun 
at  an  enormous  expense. 
<t.  Octastylos-pseudodipteros-hypsethros,    with    17   columns    and  double 
porticus,  uncompleted. 
O  was   probably   the    oldest,    G    the    most    recent    temple.     It   is  un- 
known to  what  deities  they  were  dedicated;    but  E  appears    to  have  been 
sacred  to  llcra  from  an  inscription  found  in  it  in  1865  (beside  the  altar  dis- 
covered tberej.     G,  on  account  of  its  size,  was  formerly  attributed  to  Zeus 
Olympius,    but    an  inscription  recently  found    here  appears    to  assign  it  to 
Apollo. 

The  foundation  walls  of  another  temple  were  discovered  to 
the  W.  of  the  Acropolis  in  the  autumn  of  187-i.  Remains  of 
ancient  town-walls  and  other  structures  are  also  seen  towards 
the    N. 


251 


27.    From  Palermo  to  Segesta,  Trapani,  Marsala, 
and  Castelvetrano. 

Four  days:  1st.  Calatafimi ;  2nd.  Scgcsta ,  and  thence  to  Trapani, 
23  M.  ;  3rd.  Ascent  of  Monte  S.  Giuliano,  6-7  hrs.  there  and  back,  and 
then  from  Trapani  to  Marsala,  19'/z  M. ;  4th.  Br  Mazzara  to  Castelvetrano, 
■J'2V-j  M. 

The  Diligence  which  leaves  Palermo  at  4  p.  m.  and  reaches  Calata- 
limi  at  3.  30  a.m.  (see  p.  246),  reaches  Trapani  at  9  a.m..  Mazzara  at 
6  p.  m.  ,  and  Castelvetrano  at  9  p.  m.  —  In  the  reverse  direction :  de- 
parture from  Castelvetrano  6.  30  a.m.;  arrival  at  Mazzara  9.  30  a.m., 
at  Marsala  at  noon,  at  Trapani  5.  30  or  6  p.  m.,  at  Calataflmi  10.30  p.m., 
at  Palermo  9  a.  m. 

The  Steamer  which  plies  weekly  to  and  from  Syracuse  touches 
regularly  at  Trapani,  and  at  Marsala  and  Mazzara  alternately  (comp. 
p.  246).  A  three-horse  carriage  for  the  whole  journey  may  be  hired  for 
100-110  fr.,  and  5-10  fr.  gratuity. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  W.  coast  of  Sicily  are  generally  very  civil, 
and  bargaining  at  the  inns  is  seldom  necessary  as  it  is  elsewhere. 

From  Palermo  to  Calataflmi  and  Segesta,  see  R.  26.  Farther 
on,  the  country  is  very  hilly.  Halfway  between  Calataflmi  and 
Trapani  stands  the  solitary  inn  of  — 

12M.  Colonnetta,  or  Canalotti.  A  little  beyond  it  we  cross 
a  range  of  hills  and  obtain  a  line  view  of  the  Monte  S.  Giu- 
liano (p.  252)  and  the  yEgadian  Islands.  Skirting  the  base  of 
Mte.  S.  Giuliano,  and  passing  extensive  saltworks,  we  next 
reach  — 

23  M.  Trapani.  —  *Leon  d'Oro,  near  the  gate,  in  the  Strada 
Nuova,  It.  1  fr.,  dinner  not  supplied  ;  ^Cinque  Torri,  Largo  S.  Niccolo, 
with  a  good  restaurant.  —  Qiardinetto  and  Gaffe  Roma  are  good 
restaurants. 

Mules  find  Donkeys  for  the  Monte  S.  Giuliano  are  to  be  found  near 
the  gate,  in  the  first  street  on  the  right  (2-2>|2  fr.,  boy  1|2-1  fr.).  —  Car- 
riage with  three  horses  to  the  Mte.  S.  Giuliano  25-30  fr. 

Coral  and  alabaster  work  is  a  speciality  of  Trapani. 

Trapani,  the  ancient  Drepanon  (from  drepana,  a  sickle),  so- 
called  from  the  form  of  the  peninsula,  a  town  with  36,000  in— 
hab.,  lies  at  the  N.W.  extremity  of  Sicily,  and  is  the  seat  of  a 
prefect  and  a  bishop.  The  harbour  is  good,  and  the  trade  of  the 
place  not  inconsiderable. 

In  ancient  times  it  was  the  seaport  of  Eryx  (Mte.  S.  Giuliano),  but 
was  converted  into  a  fortress  by  Hamilcar  Barca  about  the  year  260,  and 
peopled  with  the  inhabitants  of  Eryx.  In  249  the  Carthaginian  admiral 
Adherhal  defeated  the  Roman  fleet  under  the  consul  Publius  Claudius  off 
the  harbour,  and  in  242  Drepana  was  besieged  by  the  consul  Lutatius 
Catulus ,  whose  headquarters  were  in  the  island  of  Columbaria  (Colum- 
bara).  On  this  occasion  the  Carthaginian  fleet,  laden  with  stores,  on  its 
route  from  Maretimo  to  Favignana,  was  destroyed  in  March  241,  in  sight  of 
the  town,  a  victory  which  terminated  the  First  Punic  "War.  During  the 
Roman  period  the  town  was  unimportant.  In  the  middle  ages  it  pros- 
pered as  a  royal  residence.  In  the  jEncid,  Anchises  is  represented  as 
having  died  here,  and  ^Encas  as  having  instituted  games  to  his  father's  me- 
mory. The  island  described  as  the  goal  in  the  boat-race  is  now  called 
Asinello.  Another  tradition  is  that  John  of  Procida  formed  the  conspiracy 
against  Charles  of  Anjou  on  the  Scoijlio  del  Mai  Consiglio.    It  is,  however, 


252     26.  Route.       MONTE  S.  GIULTANO.  From  Palermo 

an  historical  fact  that  Peter  of  Arragon ,  touching  here  on  30th 
Aug.  1282,  on  his  return  from  Africa  with  his  fleet,  was  welcomed  as 
a  deliverer. 

Save  a  few  mediaeval  structures,  Trapani  contains  nothing 
attractive.  The  public  Library  was  founded  by  Ferdelli,  a  Nea 
politan  minister  of  war,  a  native  of  the  place.  The  Lyceum, 
to  the  right  in  the  Corso,  contains  a  natural  history  collection  and 
a  picture-gallery  ('/o  fr-)-  The  Cattedrale  S.  Lorenzo,  on  the 
right  side  of  the  Corso,  possesses  a  Crucifixion  by  Van  Dyck  (4th 
chapel  on  the  right),   freely  retouched. 

Pleasant  walk  to  the  Torre  de'  Legni,  lfe  M.  (inclining 
to  the  right )  from  the  gate  next  the  sea ,  at  the  end  of  the 
Corso. 

The  ^'Excursion  to  Monte  S.  Giuliano,  which  is  very  at- 
tractive, occupies  fully  half-a-day.  The  traveller  had  better 
ride  or  walk  (2'/'2  hrs. ;  donkeys  and  carriages,  see  p.  251).  The 
road  traverses  the  plain  we  have  already  crossed  on  our  way  to 
Trapani ,  which  Virgil  makes  the  scene  of  the  games  instituted  by 
/Eneas.  The  modern  water-conduit  supplies  the  town.  On  the 
right  is  the  church  of  the  celebrated  Madonna  di  Trapani,  erected 
in  1332.  Here  the  road  diverges,  and  pedestrians  may  ascend 
from  it  to  the  left  by  a  steep  footpath.  The  precipitous  slopes  are 
beautifully  wooded  at  places.  Midway  is  the  small  but  fertile 
Piano  del  Cuppuccini,  to  the  right  of  which"  is  the  rock  Petrale, 
anil  to  the  left  La  Cintaria. 

*Monte  San  Giuliano,  the  Ery.r  of  antiquity,  is  an  isolated 
mountain ,  2464-  ft.  in  height.  On  its  summit  is  situated  a 
town  which  is  rapidly  falling  to  decay.  The  number  of  inhabi- 
tants (6143  at  the  last  census)  is  speedily  decreasing  owing  to 
the  frequent  migrations  which  take  place  to  the  plain  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain.  At  the  entrance  of  the  town  stands 
the  Cathedral,  the  campanile  of  which  affords  a  fine  view. 
The  interior,  restored  in  1865,  contains  an  ancient  fountain- 
enclosure  of  almost  transparent  marble.  We  ascend  through  the 
town  to  the  ivy-clad  Castle  (two  towers  of  which  are  now  used 
as  a  prison;  door-keeper  30  c).  The  rugged  rock  on  which 
it  stands  commands  a  noble  prospect  of  the  land  and  sea.  To 
the  W.  at  our  feet  lies  Trapani,  and  beyond  it  are  the  yEgadian 
Islands :  Maritimo  (  ancient  Hiera ;  with  the  Monte  Falcone, 
2244  ft.),  the  most  distant;  to  the  left,  nearer  us,  Favignana 
(.Egusa,  1069  ft.);  on  the  right  Levanzo  (Phorbantia) ;  all  of 
which  belonged  to  the  Genoese  family  of  the  Pallavicini  from 
the  middle  of  the  17th  cent,  till  1874,  when  they  were  pur- 
chased by  Sign.  Florio  of  Palermo.  Towards  the  S.  stretches 
the  fertile  plain  of  the  coast,  with  Paceco  (p.  253);  in  the 
background  is  Marsala.  Towards  the  E.  tower  the  mountains 
of  S.  Vito  (from  W.  to  E.  Sparagio,  Eaccie,  Saughe,  Santa  Ban- 
n aba  ,    l'.occ.a,    and   Corvo),    and  the  conical   peninsula  of  Cofano 


lo  Castelvetrano.  PANTELLARIA.  27.  Route.      253 

extends  into  the  sea,  which  bounds  three  sides  of  the  mountain. 
In  winter  Cape  Bon  in  Africa  is  occasionally,  and  the  island 
of  Pantellaria  (see  below)  frequently  visible.  In  spring  the  whole 
district    at  our  feet  is  clothed  with  the  most   luxuriant  verdure. 

On  the  summit  once  stood  the  shrine  of  Venus  Erycina,  a  deity  wor- 
shipped by  all  the  people  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  same  spot  had  pre- 
viously been  the  site  of  a  temple  of  Astarte,  erected  by  Phoenician  settlers, 
on  whose  altar  no  blood  was  permitted  to  flow.  Melkarth  was  also  wor- 
shipped here ;  the  Greeks  therefore  believed  the  temple  to  have  been 
founded  by  Hercules,  and  Dorieus,  brother  of  Leonidas  of  Sparta,  undertook, 
as  a  Heraclides  ,  an  expedition  to  conquer  this  district,  but  was  defeated 
and  slain  by  the  Phoenicians  and  Egestans.  During,  the  First  Punic  War 
Hamilcar  Barca  surprised  the  town  and  besieged  the  temple,  which  was 
bravely  defended  by  the  Celtic  mercenaries  in  behalf  of  Rome,  but  at  the 
same  time  plundered  by  them.  The  Romans  restored  it,  furnished  it  with 
a  guard  of  200  men,  and  bestowed  on  it  the  revenues  of  seventeen  towns 
of  Sicily  (for  Eryx,  it  was  said,  had  also  been  founded  by  iEneas  I).  Accord- 
ing to  some  the  temple  was  founded  by  Dsedalus,  and  Eryx  by  a  son  of 
Venus  and  Butes.  The  present  name  is  derived  from  the  tradition,  that, 
when  the  town  was  besieged  by  King  Roger,  he  beheld  St.  Julian  putting 
the  Saracens  to  flight. 

The  only  remains  of  the  temple  of  Venus  are  the  foundations 
within  the  precincts  of  the  castle,  the  so-called  Ponte  del  Diavolo, 
and  the  'Fountain  of  Venus'  in  the  castle-garden,  an  ancient  re- 
servoir, 4  yds.  in  width,  and  8  yds.  in  length.  Of  the  walls  of  the 
sacred  city  of  Venus  considerable  portions  still  exist  beneath  the 
present  wall,  between  the  gates  of  Trapani  and  La  Spada,  con- 
sisting of  huge  blocks  in  courses  of  equal  height.  The  wall  was 
defended  by  eleven  towers  at  unequal  intervals.  The  entrance  to 
the  town  was  obviously  between  the  Monte  di  Quartiere  and 'the. 
Porta  la  Spada,  where  in  the  interior  of  the  town  the  walls  of 
the  approach  can  be  traced  towards  the  right.  These  walls  are 
unquestionably  of  very  great  antiquity,  although  it  cannot  now 
be  ascertained  by  what  nation  they  were  erected.  The  town 
itself,  of  which  Hamilcar  Barca  once  took  possession,  lay  lower 
down  on  the  table-land  to  the  W.,  immediately  above  Trapani, 
but  no  trace  of  it  now  exists. 

A  sailing-boat  belonging  to  the  Florio  Co.  starts  from  Trapani  once 
weekly  (Sat.,  5  p.  in.;  returning  on  Tues.  9  p.  m.)  for  Pantellaria .  an 
island  of  volcanic  origin.  30  31.  in  circumference,  and  58  sq.  M.  in  area, 
situated  94  M.  to  the  S.W.,  or  more  than  halfway  to  the  African  coast. 
The  extinct  crater  in  the  interior  of  the  island  rises  nearly  2000  ft.  above 
the  sea.  Numerous  hot  mineral  springs  still  afford  evidence  of  slum- 
bering volcanic  agency.  The  inhabitants,  7000  in  number,  speak  a  pecu- 
liar dialect  compounded  of  Arabic  and  Italian,  and  carry  on  a  considerable 
trade  with  the  excellent  figs,  raisins,  capers,  and  other  products  ot  their 
island.  Pantellaria  was  the  Cossyra  of  antiquity.  It  was  occupied  by  the 
Phoenicians  at  an  earlv  period.  The  principal  village,  with  2500  inhab., 
lies  on  the  N.  W.  side  of  the  island.  The  citadel  contains  an  Italian 
penal  colony. 

From  Trapani  to  Marsala,  19i/2  M.  The  road  traverses  a 
beautiful  and  richly  cultivated  plain  adjoining  the  coast.  %'/2  M. 
La  Xillti.  '27  M.  Paceco,  founded  in  1609,  is  famed  for  itscu- 
cumbers  and  melons.  Beyond  it  we  <to«s  the  Birgi,  the  ancient 
Acithis.    Here,  in  the  plain  of  Falconari,   Frederick  II.  of  Sicily 


254      Route  27.  MARSALA.  From  Palermo 

routed  the  united  French  and  Neapolitan  armies,  and  took  Philip 
of  Anjou  prisoner,  on  1st  Dec.  1299.  This  was  the  greatest 
of  the  battles  which  took  place  during  the  wars  after  the  Si- 
cilian Vespers.  To  the  right  is  Lo  Stagnone,  a  shallow  bay, 
with  the  islands  of  Borrone,  Isola  Longa,  and  nearer  the  coast 
the  Isola  8.  Pantaleo.  —  (In  fine  weather  a  very  pleasant  trip 
may  be  made  by  water  from  Trapani  by  the  Isola  S.  Pantaleo  to 
Marsala;  boat  with  two  rowers  10-1;")  fr. ;  supply  of  provisions 
necessary.) 

42!/2  M.  Marsala  (Locanda  del  Leone,  near  the  cathedral, 
dirty ;  Trinacria,  tolerable ;  *Trattoria  of  Francesco  Porcelli,  at 
the  post-office,  near  the  Porta  Garibaldi ;  *Caffe  Lilibeo,  opposite 
the  cathedral)  is  an  important  commercial  town  with  34,200 
inhab.,  well  known  for  the  Marsala  wine  which  is  manufactured 
here  from  Sicilian  wines  and  spirit.  The  principal  firms  are 
Ingham ,  Ftorio ,  and  Woodhouse  ,  who  kindly  admit  visitors  to 
see  their  extensive  and  interesting  establishments ,  situated  on 
the  shore  to  the  S.  of  the  town.  Garibaldi  with  1007  men, 
transported  by  the  'Piemonte'  and  'Lombardo',  landed  here  on 
11th  May,  1860,  and  began  his  famous  progress  through  the  is- 
land, which  terminated  in  a  few  weeks  with  the  overthrow 
of  the  Bourbon  supremacy  in  Sicily.  The  town,  a  modern  place, 
contains  nothing  noteworthy,  except  perhaps  the  cathedral  and 
the  harbour.  The  Municipio  (last  door  on  the  right)  contains  an 
antique  animal-group  from  Motya,   a  tiger  devouring  a  bull. 

Marsala  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Lilybaeum,  a  frag- 
ment of  the  town-wall  of  which  is  preserved  near  the  Porta  di 
Trapani.  Other  relics  are  the  harbour  to  the  N.  ,  where  the 
salt-works  are  now  situated,  and  a  few  fragments  of  houses  and 
walls  on  the  coast  of  Capo  Boeo  (or  Lilibeo),  the  most  western 
point  of  Sicily  and  the  nearest  to  Africa.  In  the  centre  of  a 
field  on  the  promontory  stands  the  church  of  8.  Giovanni  Bat- 
tista,  with  a  subterranean  spring  in  the  Grotta  della  Sibilla 
(Oumana).  The  sibyl  is  said  to  have  proclaimed  her  oracles 
through  the  medium  of  the  water,  which  is  still  an  object  of 
superstitious  veneration. 

Lilybseum  was  the  principal  fortress  of  the  Carthaginians  in  Sicily. 
Pyrrhus  besieged  it  unsuccessfully  in  276,  after  which  he  quitted  the  island. 
In  249-41  the  Romans  in  vain  endeavoured  to  reduce  it  during  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  sieges  on  record.  Under  the  Roman  supremacy  Lily- 
bseum  was  a  very  handsome  city  ('splendidissima  civitas"),  and  the  seat  of 
government  for  half  the  island  of  Sicily.  From  this  point  the  Roman 
expeditions  against  Africa,  and  in  modern  times  those  of  John  of  Austria, 
were  undertaken.  The  present  name  of  the  town  is  of  Saracenic  origin, 
Marsa-Ali,  harbour  of  Ali.  Charles  V.  caused  stones  to  be  sunk  at  the 
entrance  to  the  harbour,  with  a  view  to  deprive  the  barbarians  of  one  of 
their  favourite  haunts. 

On  the  small  island  of  S.  Pantaleo,  situated  in  the  shallow  ' Sta- 
<tii<>"f''  near  the  coast  about  6  M.  to  the  N.  of  Marsala  (boat  thither  from 
M.usala  4  fr.),  was  anciently  situated  the  Carthaginian  emporium  of  Motya. 


to  f'astelvetrano.  MAZZARA.  27.  Route.       255 

The  foundations  of  old  walls  round  the  island,  and  remains  of  the  gates, 
especially  on  the  side  next  the  land,  with  which  the  island  was  connected 
by  an  embankment,  are  still  traceable.  The  latter  still  exists  under  water, 
and  is  used  by  the  natives  as  a  track  for  their  waggons.  In  B.C.  397  the 
town  was  besieged  and  destroyed  by  Dionysius  with  80,000  men  and  6000 
vessels,  and  the  Carthaginian  admiral  Himilco  totally  routed.  It  was  with 
a  view  to  repair  this  loss  that  the  Carthaginians  founded  Lilybauim. 

The  road  from  Marsala  to  Mazzara,  11  M.,  traverses  admirably 
cultivated  land ,  covered  with  vineyards,  plantations  of  figs  and 
almonds,  and  farther  on  with  orange  gardens,  i'or  the  greater 
part  of  the  way  it  is  bordered  with  the  low  fan-palm  (Charnrerops 
humilis ;    Sicil.  giumarre). 

oS'/o  M-  Mazzara  (Loeanda  Garibaldi,  beyond  the  river; 
Locanda  di  Mazzara,  inferior,  but  tolerable  ;  Albergo  Centrale,  close 
to  the  old  castle,  with  *trattoria ;  *Cafe  near  the  Piazza  del  Duomo), 
a  town  with  12,200  inhab.,  the  residence  of  a  bishop  with  a 
revenue  of  200,000  fr.,  is  surrounded  by  a  quadrangular  wall  about 
36  ft.  in  height,  which  is  defended  in  the  characteristic  Italian 
style  with  square  towers  rising  from  it  at  intervals.  It  was 
originally  a  colony  of  the  Selinuntians ,  but,  like  the  mother  city, 
was  destroyed  by  Hannibal  Gisgon  in  B.C.  409.  In  807,  the 
Arabs  landed  at  lids  el-Beldt  (Punta  di  Granitoid),  to  the  S.  of 
Mazzara,  with  the  intention  of  conquering  the  island ,  part  of 
which  was  called  Val  di  Mazzara  down  to  1817.  The  ruined 
Castle  at  the  ,s.W.  angle  of  the  town-wall  was  erected  by  Count 
Roger  in  1072,  who  also  founded  the  Cathedral,  which  contains 
three  ancient  sarcophagi  (Battle  of  the  Amazons ;  Wild  Boar  Hunt ; 
Rape  of  Persephone,  freely  restored),  and  a  Transfiguration  over 
the  high  altar  by  Gagini.  On  the  river  Maza-rus  farther  up,  into 
the  estuary  of  which  the  tide  penetrates  for  a  considerable 
distance,  are  situated  grottoes  in  which  the  'beati  Pauli'  (Pauli- 
ciani)  once  celebrated  their  services.  The  mansion  of  the  Conte 
Burgio ,  at  the  W.  corner  of  the  Piazza  del  Duomo ,  and  the 
Archiepiscopal  Palace  opposite  the  cathedral  contain  several  fine 
large  Oriental  porcelain  vases.     Pleasant  walk  on  the  Marina. 

Beyond  Mazzara  the  road  crosses  the  river  Arena,  and  gra- 
dually ascends  to  (61  M.)  Campobello,  where  we  alight  in  order 
to  visit  (in  1  hr.)  the  *Hocca  di  Ousa,  or  quarries  of  JSelinunto, 
situated  to  the  right.  The  path  is  bad,  but  cannot  be  missed.  It 
passes  by  the  Baglio  (wine-depot)  of  Messrs.  Ingham  and  Florio,  to 
the  right  of  the  road.  On  the  left  side  of  the  path  lies  a  monolith, 
10  ft.  in  diameter,  once  destined  to  form  part  of  a  column,  and 
supposed  to  have  rolled  down  from  the  quarries  on  the  right  about 
the  year  B.C.  409.  The  principal  quarries  are  on  the  right.  The 
places  are  distinctly  seen  where  the  masses  of  rock  destined  for 
the  columns  of  temple  G  at  Selinus  (p.  250)  were  hewn  cylindri- 
cally  out  of  the  strata.  After  a  portion  had  been  detached  from 
the  rock  at  the  sides,  it  was  loosened  by  means  of  wedges 
driven  in  the  direction  of  the  cleavage  of  the  strata.     The  spaces 


256      Route  :>7.  SCIACCA.  From  Castelvetrano 

between  the  monoliths  and  the  solid  rock  are  so  considerable  as 
almost  to  lead  to  the  belief  that  machines  were  used  in  the 
operation.  The  blocks  appear  to  have  been  conveyed  from  the 
spot  on  rollers  or  tramways. 

65  M.   Castelvetrano,   see  p.  248. 

From  Mazzaka  to  Selinunto  (15  JI.  ;  a  ride  of  6'/-2  hrs. ;  mule  6-7  fr.). 
Those  who  intend  to  take  this  direct  route  should  procure  a  trustworthy 
guide,  as  the  way  is  difficult  to  find.  It  also  first  leads  to  Campohello, 
where  the  quarries  of  Selinunto  may  be  visited  (see  above).  If  the 
traveller  starts  early  and  is  prepared  for  a  long  ride  ,  he  may  proceed  to 
Sciacca  (6'/2  hrs.  more)  on  the  same  day,  but  he  will  probably  prefer  to 
spend  the  night  at  Castelvetrano  (3  hrs.),  or  to  return  to  Mazzara ,  and 
to  pursue  his  journey  thence  by  diligence  or  steamboat. 


28.     From  Castelvetrano  (Selinunto)  to  Girgenti. 

About  63  31.  Xu  carriage-road  yet.  The  route  between  Selinunto  and 
Sciacca  (_'iS  M.)  must  therefore  be  made  on  horseback.  From  Sciacca  to 
Girgenti  by  sailing-boat  in  4  hrs.  when  the  wind  is  favourable  (return- 
boals  sometimes  to  be  met  with  at  a  reduced  fare),  a  shorter,  pleasanter, 
and  cheaper  journey  than  the  land  route.  The  latter  is  a  fatiguing  ride 
of  39  M.  to  Girgenti ,  as  no  tolerable  quarters  for  the  night  are  to  be 
found  on  the  way.  The  route  is  very  attractive  at  places,  but  has  lately 
been  considered  unsafe.  For  3  mules  with  3  attendants  from  Castelvetrano 
to  Sciacca  30  fr.  were  recently  paid;  and  for  3  mules  with  one  attendant 
from  Sciacca  to  Girgenti  45  fr.  A  boat  may  also  often  be  found  at  Selinunto 
to  convey  travellers  to  Sciacca  (S  fr.).  The  Syracuse  steamboat  touches 
at  Sciacca  weekly  (Sunday  forenoon ;  landing  or  embarcation  1  fr.) ,  a 
pleasant  means  of  conveyance  to  Girgenti  if  it  should  happen  to  suit  the 
traveller's  convenience. 

If  Castelvetrano  be  quitted  early,  it  is  possible  to  ride  in 
one  day  by  the  ruins  of  Selinus  to  Sciacca  (28  M.  ;  by  the  di- 
rect route  from  Castelvetrano  about  24  M.).  From  the  Acropolis 
we  again  cross  to  the  Neapolis,  traverse  wheat-fields  and  vineyards, 
and  reach  the  Fiume  Beliei  (ancient  Hypsas),  which  we  cross  at 
a  ford.  The  route  then  lies  partly  across  the  sand  of  the  coast, 
partly  through  poorly  cultivated  land,  to  Sciacca.  The  town  of 
Menfrici  (Sicil.  Menfi;  397  ft.),  with  9500  inhab.  ,  lies  a  few 
miles  to  the  left.  The  stones  for  the  Metopae  of  Selinus  appear  to 
have  been  quarried  near  this  town. 

Sciacca  (La  Pace,  clean,-  Caffe  d'ltalid),  with  19,200  inhab., 
situated  on  an  abrupt  eminence  (262  ft.)  on  the  coast,  occupies 
the  site  of  the  Thermae  Selinuntinae  of  antiquity.  Tommaso  Fa- 
zello  (d.  1570),  the  father  of  Sicilian  history,  was  born  here. 
For  the  sake,  it  is  said,  of  acquiring  an  illustrious  countryman, 
he  describes  Agathoeles,  the  tyrant  of  Syracuse,  who  was  born  at 
Therm*  Himerenses  (Termini),  as  a  native  of  Sciacca.  In  the 
middle  ages  the  town  was  a  place  of  some  importance ,  being 
a  royal  and  not  merely  a  baronial  borough.  Powerful  nobles, 
however,  also  resided  here,  the  ruins  of  whose  castles  are  still 
to  be  seen  in  the  town;  the  most  extensive  of  these  are  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  town- wall.    Here  rise  the  ruins  of  the  castles  of  the 


to  Giryenti.  MONTE  S.  CALOGERO.       M.  Route.      'Ibl 

Luna  and  Perollo  families,  whose  feuds,  the  so-called  Casi  di 
Sciacca ,  disturbed  the  tranquillity  of  the  town  for  a  whole 
century  (1410-1529),  a  fact  which  serves  to  convey  an  idea  of 
the  condition  of  mediaeval  Sicily.  The  Cathedral  was  founded 
by  Julietta,  the  daughter  of  Roger  I.  The  finest  view  is  afforded 
by  the  tower  of  S.  Michele.  The  Casa  Starepinto  and  Casa 
Triolo  are  interesting  specimens  of  mediaeval  architecture.  The 
spacious  modern  palace,  with  a  beautiful  garden,  at  the  E.  gate, 
is  the  property  of  the  Marchese  San  Giacomo. 

Monte  S.  Calogero  (1279  ft.),  an  isolated  cone,  3  31.  to  the  E.  of 
Sciacca,  deserves  a  visit  on  account  of  the  remarkable  vapour-baths  sit- 
uated there.  In  the  valley  between  Sciacca  and  the  mountain  are  the 
sources  of  the  hot  sulphur  (133°  Fahr.)  and  salt  (88°)  springs,  which  at- 
tract numerous  patients  in  summer.  The  foundation  of  the  vapour-baths 
(Le  Stufe;  temperature  varying  from  92°  to  104°)  was  attributed  to  Dsedatus, 
and  the  mountain  called  in  ancient  times  Mons  Chronios.  The  grottoes, 
partially  artificial,  with  unimportant  inscriptions,  such  as  the  Grotta  Taphano 
(delta  Diana)  and  delle  Pulzelle,  are  curious.  In  the  middle  ages  the 
discovery  of  the  efficacy  of  the  baths  was  attributed  to  S.  Calogero 
(secW.Ob'-j  ipcoj'),  and  most  of  the  baths  in  Sicily  are  accordingly  named  after 
that  saint,  as  in  ancient  times  they  were  all  believed  to  have  been  estab- 
lished by  Danlalus.  The  island  of  Pantellaria  is  most  distinctly  visible 
from  the  Monte  S.  Calogero.  On  18th  July,  1831,  a  volcanic  island  (Isola 
Ferdinandea),  4  M.  in  circumference,  with  a  crater,  rose  from  the  sea 
between  Sciacca  and  Pantellaria,  but  on  18th  Jan.,  1832,  entirely  disap- 
peared. In  1864  symptoms  of  a  submarine  eruption  were  again  observed. 
The  sea  is  now  very  deep  at  this  point.  Not  far  from  it  a  valuable  coral 
reef  was  discovered  in  May,  1875,  and  it  now  attracts  many  hundreds  of 
coral-fishers. 

Fi;om  Palermo  to  Sciacca  by  Cokleone  (about  66  M.).  As  the 
road  presents  few  objects  of  interest,  either  in  a  natural  or  historical  point 
of  view,  the  following  slight  sketch  will  suffice.  Palermo  is  quitted  by  the 
Porta  Nuova,  the  Largo  dell1  Indipendenza  is  crossed,  and  the  Strada  Pisani 
followed,  which  leads  to  the  Lunatic  Asylum  and  crosses  the  Oreto.  The 
road  then  ascends  to  Parco,  where  William  II.  once  possessed  his  exten- 
sive hunting  preserves.  The  view  of  Palermo  from  the  height  above 
Parco  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Sicily.  We  next  reach  Piano  del  Greci 
(8'la  M.),  an  Albanian  colony,  established  in  1488.  The  peculiarities  of  the 
language  and  customs  of  the  town  are  gradually  becoming  extinct;  the  in- 
habitants are  notorious  for  their  predatory  propensities.  The  road  then 
ascends  a  long  and  dreary  valley.  Before  us  the  mountain-ridge  of  Busam- 
bra  lies  in  an  oblique  direction,  with  the  woods  of  Cappelliert  towards  the 
E..  where  the  hunting  lodge  of  Ficuzza  is  situated.  Another  road  ascends 
hither  from  Ogliastro.  The  road  to  Corleone  descends  by  numerous 
windings,  after  having  quitted  the  height  where  the  ruins  of  the  Saracenic 
stronghold  Kalala  Busamara  are  situated. 

Corleone  (Loeanda  Grande,  in  the  Piazza,  bad),  anciently  Korliitn, 
with  16,900  inhab.,  is  a  town  of  Saracenic  origin,  where  Frederick  II. 
established  a  Lombard  colony  in  1237.  Its  inhabitants  were  therefore 
the   most  strenuous   opponents  of  the  house  of  Anjou. 

From  Corleone  to  Chiusa,  13  JL,  the  road  leads  to  the  left,  skirting 
the  cliffs  of  Monte  de^  Cavalti  and  Monte  Barucu ,  to  Bisacquivo  (9100 
inhab.)  and  (13  M.)  Chiusa  (7000  inhab.) ,  where  it  divides.  The  road 
to  the  right  leads  to  Ginliana  and  Xambiicca,  a  well-built  town  with  9000 
inhab.,  which  under  the  name  of  Rahal  Zabuth  belonged  to  the  monaster)' 
of  Monrealo  in  118").  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  are  situated  Contessa,  an 
Albanian  settlement,  and  the  ruins  of  Entella  on  the  bank  of  the  Belliri 
Sinistro,  5  M.  from  Contessa,  and  accessible  from  the  S.E.  only.  Entella 
was  a  Sicanian  town  ,  of  which  mention  is  made  in  the  Trojan-Sicilian 
Baedekeb.    Italv  III.     Gth  Edition.  ,t  n 


258      Route  28.         PORTO  RMPEDOCLE. 

myths.  In  403  it  was  taken  by  surprise  by  the  Campanian  mercenary 
troops  of  Dionysius  I.  In  consequence  of  a  rebellion  of  the  Saracenic 
population  in  1224,  Frederick  II.  transplanted  them  to  Kocera  de1  Pagani 
in  Campania.  From  Sambucca  the  road  proceeds  W.  to  Sella- Misilibesi, 
where  it  unites  with  the  road  from  Partanna  (12,500  inhab.)  and  S. 
Margherila  (7500  inhab.),  and  then  leads  E.  to  Sciacca  (p.  256). 

From  [Sciacca  to  Girgenti,  about  38  M.,  a  fatiguing  ride  of  12 
hrs.  (country  unsafe  down  to  187IS).  We  cross  the  Fiume  Valta- 
belottn ;  to  the  left  on  a  precipitous  height ,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river,  10  M.  inland,  stands  Ctdtabelntta.  About  1  M.  to 
the  S.  of  it,  on  a  still  higher  hill  (J2428  ft.),  now  occupied  by  the 
church  of  S.  Marin  a  Monte  Vergine,  lay  Trioeala,  celebrated  for 
the  siege  it  sustained  in  the  Second  Servile  War,  B.C.  10'2.  The 
view  thence  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Sicily.  On  the  left  bank  lies 
the  small  town  of  Ribera.  Farther  on,  having  accomplished  more 
than  half  the  journey,  we  cross  (201/o  M. )  the  river  Ptntani  (ancient 
H(dycu-i~)  in  order  to  rest  at  Monte  Allegro  (miserable  locandaj,  a 
place  consisting  of  two  villages,  the  older  on  the  hill,  now  deserted 
owing  to  want  of  water,  and  the  newer  lower  down.  Near  the 
village  id  a  small  lake,  nearly  '/2  M.  in  diameter,  impregnated  with 
carbonate  of  soda. 

On  the  Capo  Bianco  (98  ft. J,  between  the  Platani  and  Monte  Allegro, 
lie  the  ruins  of  Jlcrarltwc  Minoa.  At  first  Macara,  a  Sicanian  town,  stood 
here  i  it  then  became  a  Cretan  and  Phoenician  settlement  {Riis-Mt'lkarth), 
the  (ireek  Minoa  I  where  the  tomb  of  Minos  is  still  pointed  out).  It  sub- 
sequently became  a  Lacedaemonian  colony  under  Euryleon,  successor  of 
Dorieus  who  was  slain  at  Eryx,  and  received  the  name  of  lleraclea  Minoa. 
In  403  it  was  destroyed  by  the  Carthaginians,  but  afterwards  taken  from 
them  by  Agathocles  and  Pyrrhus.  During  the  First  Punic  War  it  again 
became  a  Carthaginian  naval  station.  When  it  was  iinally  destroyed  is 
unknown,  and  very  few  fragments  of  it  now  exist. 

Beyond  Monte  Allegro  the  bridle-path  traverses  a  dreary  tract, 
partly  inland,  and  partly  near  the  coast.  Near  Siculinna  lay  the 
ancient  Ancyrti.     After  a  ride  of  15  M.  more,  we  reach  — 

Porto  Empedocle,  formerly  called  Molo  di  Girgenti  (miserable 
trattoria,  where  a  bed  may  be  obtained  if  necessary),  a  busy  little 
seaport  with  0000  inhab.,  where  the  sulphur  and  corn-exporters  of 
Girgenti  have  extensive  magazines. 

Railway  to  Iiiucrnti  (li  M.,  in  '/■_>  hx.  ;  fares  1  fr.  20,  8~>,  or 
iif>c).  Owing  to  the  ascent,  the  railway  describes  several  long 
curves.  Two  trains  a  day  only.  The  distance  by  road  is  scarcely 
4  M. 

Girgenti,  see  p.  2(>0. 


29.     From  Palermo  to  Girgenti. 

Railway  from  Palermo  to  iSpin/i,  CO  31.,  two  through-trains  daily  in 
4'.i  hrs.  (fares  11  fr.,  7  fr.  70,  5  fr.  50  c),  and  from  Pnssofondvto  (via 
(lii-ijnili,  l4'/a  M.,  in  i'/a  lir.  ;  fares  2  fr.  (JO,  I  fr.  So,  L  fr.  3(1  ,-,.)  to  I'orlo 
EmprdorU'  (see  above).  —  Uiltoknoks  in  eniineetion  with  the  trains  run 
between  Spina  and  Passolondulo  in  .'J-iJ'/s  hrs.,  but  the  traveller  is  not 
sure  of  a  seat    unless    he    has    taken    a    ticket    beforehand    at  Palermo    or 


TERMINI.  29.  Route.      259 

Girgenti.  The  whole  journey  from  Palermo  to  Girgenti,  or  in  the  reverse 
direction,  can  only  be  accomplished  by  taking  the  first  train  from  either 
place;  otherwise  a  night  must  be  spent  at  Casteltermini.  A  supply  of 
provisions  for  the  journey  is  desirable.  (A  temporary  tramway  for  this 
part  of  the  route  is  projected.) 

The  railway  traverses  the  fertile  plain  of  the  coast  (stations 
Ficarazzelli  and  Ficarazzi)  to  Bagaria  (p.  244),  and  runs  thence 
between  the  sea  and  the  hills ,  passing  through  several  short 
tunnels,  and  generally  parallel  with  the  road.  10  M.  <S.  Flavin. 
11  M.  Casteldaccia.  13  M.  Altavilla;  the  village,  on  the  hill  to  the 
right,  possesses  one  of  the  oldest  existing  Norman  churches,  called 
La  Chiesazza,  founded  by  Robert  Guiscard  in  1077.  A  number 
of  'tonnare'  (apparatus  for  catching  the  tunny-fish)  are  observed 
in  the  sea.  A  red  flag  hoisted  near  them  in  the  month  of  May 
indicates  that  a  shoal  has  entered,  or  is  about  to  enter  the  nets, 
and  is  a  signal  for  a  general  onslaught  of  the  fishermen.  19'/2  M. 
Trabia;  then  a  tunnel,   and  a  bridge  over  the  Fiume  S.  Lionardo. 

23  M.  Termini  [Locanda  Minerva,  on  the  E.  slope  of  the 
hill ;  Locanda  delta  Fenice,  with  trattoria,  near  the  town-gate), 
one  of  the  busiest  provincial  towns  of  Sicily,  with  19,700  inhab., 
situated  on  a  promontory ,  presents  a  poor  appearance  to  those 
coming  from  Palermo.  The  houses  of  the  nobility  are  situated 
on  the  hill ,  those  of  the  merchants  on  the  E.  side.  The 
maccaroni  (pasta)  of  Termini  is  considered  the  best  in  Sicily. 

Termini  (Thermae  Himerenses),  probably  an  ancient  Phoenician  market, 
was  founded  as  a  town  by  the  Carthaginians  in  407,  after  the  destruction 
of  Himera,  and  maintained  by  them  till  252,  when  it  was  taken  by  the 
Romans.  Under  the  latter  it  was  a  prosperous  place,  and  even  in  the 
middle  ages  it  was  a  town  of  some  importance.  Robert  of  Naples,  who 
attacked  Sicily  in  1338,  besieged  the  strong  castle  of  Termini  in  vain.  This 
ancient  stronghold  was  destroyed  in  1860. 

The  substructions  of  a  Roman  building,  supposed  to  have 
been  a  curia  and  baths,  have  been  excavated  in  the  Villa  della 
Citta,  in  the  Piano  di  8.  Giovanni,  above  the  town  (fine  *view), 
where  there  are  also  traces  of  an  amphitheatre.  The  Aqua  Cor- 
nelia, a  Roman  aqueduct  to  the  S.E.  of  the  town,  was  destroyed 
in  1438.  Its  remains  from  Brucato  downwards  merit  a  visit 
on  account  of  the  remarkable  fertility  of  the  surrounding  district. 
A  collection  of  antiquities ,  including  some  line  vases,  most  of 
them  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  is  preserved  at  the  Liceo  (keys 
kept  by  Sign.  S.  Ciofalo,  the  librarian  of  the  institution).  The 
Sindaco,  Baron  Janelli,  also  possesses  a  collection  of  antiquities. 
Giuseppe  di  Giorgi  is  a  vendor  of  antiques.  Termini  was  the 
birthplace  of  Niccolo  Palmieri,  a  distinguished  Sicilian  political 
economist  and  historian,  who  was  interred  in  the  Chiesa  del  Monte. 
The  bath  establishment,  situated  on  the  E.  side  of  the  hill,  is 
well  fitted  up.  Some  of  the  springs  are  chalybeate,  others 
contain  sulphur  (106°  Fahr.).    The  baths  are  extolled  by  Pindar. 

On  a  rocky  slope  above  the  Fiume  S.  Lionardo,  4  M.  from  Termini, 
is    the    town   of  Cunamo  (7200  inhab. ;  line  view),  whence  the  precipitous 

17* 


260     Route  ->U.  CAMMAHATA.  From  Palermo 

Monle  San  Calogero  (4347  ft.),  commanding  a  noble  prospect,  may  be 
ascended. 

From  Termini  direct  to  Leonforte,  see  p.  283. 

The  train  continues  to  skirt  the  coast ,  with  the  Monte  San 
Calogero  rising  on  the  right,  crosses  the  Fiume  Torto,  and  then 
turns  inland  towards  the  S.,  following  the  right  bank  of  the  stream. 

28  M.  Cerda;  the  village  lies  on  the  hill  to  the  left;  on  the 
right  rises  the  M.  Calogero.  (High  road  to  Cefalu,  see  p.  278.) 
32M.  Sciara.  The  train  crosses  the  Torto,  passes  through  a  tunnel, 
and  then  recrosses  the  stream.  38  M.  Monternaggiore.  The  river 
is  again  crossed.  44  M.  Roccapalumba.  On  a  steep  hill  to  the 
right  is  situated  the  town  of  Alia,  with  4600  inhab.  (  High  road 
to  S.  Caterina,  see  p.  266. J  The  train  ascends,  and  crosses  the 
watershed  between  the  Tyrrhenian  and  African  seas. 

48  M.  Lercara,  with  9000  inhab.,  a  miserable  place  of  bad  re- 
putation, near  which  are  the  northernmost  sulphur-mines  in  the 
island.  The  train  leaves  the  town  on  the  hill  to  the  right,  passes 
through  a  tunnel,  and  enters  the  valley  of  the  Platani,  on  the 
left  bank  of  which  the  station  lies.  To  the  right  opens  the  beau- 
tiful basin  of  (53  M.)  Castronuovo  ,  where  coloured  marble  was 
extensively  quarried  in  ancient  times.  The  train  then  crosses  to 
the  right  bank  of  the  Platani. 

SS1/-)  M.  Cammaratrt,  a  town  with  5000  inhab.  The  Pizzo  di 
Cammarata  (5173  ft.)  is  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  the  island. 

60  M.   Spina,  at  present  the  terminus  of  the  railway. 

The  high  road  leads  to  the  W.  by  the  loftily  situated  Castelter- 
mini  (Locanda  of  Luigi  Livorsi),  with  8200  inhab.  who  are  chiefly 
engaged  in  agriculture.  From  this  point  the  traveller  may  reach 
Passofonduto  in  l!/2  hr-  by  crossing  the  hill  on  foot  or  on  donkey- 
back,  with  a  guide. 

The  hill  on  the  left  is  the  Pizzo  di  Sutera  (2687  ft),  crowned  with  a 
town  (3800  inhab.)  and  a  ruined  castle.  In  869  the  Arabs  called  the  town 
Sotir,  a  name  probably  akin  to  2unfjn.  It  is  supposed  by  some  to  have 
been  the  ancient  Camicus,  where  Dtedalus  built  a  castle  for  Cocalus. 

The  railway  from  Passofonduto  to  Girgenti,  completed  in  Oct. 
1875,  ascends  a  side-valley  of  the  Platani.  4'/2  M.  Cornitini,  with 
valuable  sulphur-mines,  the  property  of  Ignazio  Genuardi,  of  Gir- 
genti, the  'sulphur-king'  of  Sicily.  On  a  hill,  l'/2  M.  to  the  W., 
lies  Aragona,  the  property  of  the  Naselli  family,  with  10,000  in- 
habitants. 9  M.  Caldare.  The  line  then  describes  a  long  curve 
round  the  hill  on  which  Girgenti  lies. 

Girgenti,  see  below ;  omnibus  to  the  town  lfe  fr. 


30.  Girgenti. 

Hotels.  :::Albergo  Gelia  ,  Via  Atenea,  It.  l1/-"^,  L.  and  A.  l'|,|  fr. ; 
a  trattoria  on  the  first  floor:  Albergo  Emtedocle,  similar  charges :  :.\l- 
bekgo  Centeale,  opposite  the  Uelia,  unpretending,  R.  l'|2,  L.  and  A.  3\\ 
fr.,  terrace  on  the  roof  with  view  of  the  sea;  Locanda  di  Napoli,  di 
Rojia.  and  di  Venezia. 


GIKOENTI 


A  antii'u    dtta 

B  Tocca,  o  cittadulla 

(  il  mante    Torn 

J  il  tempio    di  (Have  Folic*/ 

(  Santa  Marin  tlei  (/reel  1 
'1  la   rape  Atenea 
&  il  tempio  di  Cerere  e  eroserpina 

(  Chiesa    ill  San   Biaqio  ) 
4  linfa   delle   nutra   oriental i 

Costruttie  a    i/rnruli  macigni 
o  inaresso    alia     riftd 
f>il  tmipio  di  Ghuitme  Larnua 


ti'"  fonte  u/itico 
7  le  mure  rneriik'anali  tagliafe 

lit  gran  parte  nella  rocea 
o  ti   tempio   dflla   timcwdiu 

9  alciaa.  sepoleri    sotterrimei 

10  d,  tempio   d  Ercole 
1!  porta    Aurea 

12  il    sepolcro    di    Terone 
12  U    tempi o    il '  Hsculapio 

14  sepolekri    antiLchL 

15  U  tempio  di  Giove  Oihnpieo 

16  0  tempio  tU  Castor*  e  diPoTUire 


17  vji   taittco   niimitmento  I Stoa? ) 

1 8  piscina 

li)  k    coiulaUi   Feacx 
20  (i    tempio    ih'  Tnlrano 
1\  I  oratorio   di  _Falarule 

1  u  il.  pante    dt>    rnxyrtL 

23  batpd    unfit)! a 

24  scpolchri   antichz 

o5  (  San  Ifiafla  iaviaizi  di  faldrrichi 
26  porta    del  pante 

2  7  cam-tmie  di   Sasi    Tito 
H  il   Ihiomo 


to  Girgenti.  GIRGENTI.  30.  Route.      261 

"Trattoria  of  Franc.  Paolo  Romeres,  Via  Atenea. 

Michele  Pancucci,  the  custodian  of  the  antiquities,  is  the  best  guide  to 
the  ruins  (5  fr.  per  day),  but  unnecessary.  Models  of  the  temples  are 
sold  by  Gerlando   Aletto    (Piano    del  Barone). 

Railway  to  Palermo  ,  see  p.  260 ;  omnibus  to  the  station  in  25  min. 
(fare  '/■>  fr.),  starting  from  the  post-office  nearly  an  hour  before  the  de- 
parture of  each  train.  —  Diligence  to  Caltanissetta,  see  p.  271.  —  Steam- 
boats ,  see  p.  246. 

Disposal  of  Time.  One  day  and  a  half  suffice  for  the  sights :  1st  Day  : 
Monuments  outside  the  town  ;  2nd  Day:  Sights  in  the  town  in  the  forenoon; 
excursion  to  the  Maccaluba,  or  continuation  of  journey  in  the  afternoon. 

Girgenti,  the  ancient  Acragas  or  Agrigentum,  with  20,000  in- 
hab.,  the  most  richly  endowed  bishopric  in  Sicily,  is  the  seat  of 
a  prefect ,  and  the  military  headquarters  of  the  district.  It  is  now 
provided  with  water-works,  partly  constructed  from  an  ancient 
aqueduct.  The  four  gates  are  the  Porta  del  Molo,  del  Ponte, 
Biberia,  and  Panitteri.  The  trade  of  the  town  is  considerable, 
nearly  one-sixth  of  the  Sicilian  sulphur  being  exported  from  Porto 
Empedocle,  the  seaport  of  Girgenti  (p.  258). 

Acragas  ( "^/.oa;  a;) ,  'the  most  beautiful  city  of  mortals'1  according 
to  Pindar,  was  founded  by  colonists  from  Gela  in  582.  The  Doric  set- 
tlers, natives  of  Crete,  introduced  the  worship  of  Athene  of  Lindus  and 
also  that  of  Zeus  Atabyrius,  i.e.  the  Moloch  of  Mt.  Tabor.  After  having 
erected  a  temple  to  Zeus  Polieus,  'the  founder  of  cities',  Phalaris  usurped 
the  supreme  power  and  ruled  from  564  to  549,  when  he  was  deposed  by 
the  Eumenides  Telemachus,  and  an  oligarchy  of  sixty  years  now  began. 
Phalaris  had  sacrificed  human  victims  to  Zeus  Atabyrius  in  red-hot  bulls 
of  metal,  a  practice,  which,  in  addition  to  his  tyrannical  government,  had 
rendered  him  odious  to  the  Greeks.  In  488  Theron  subverted  the  oligarchy, 
and  extended  the  dominions  of  Acragas  as  far  as  the  X.  coast,  where  he 
conquered  Himera.  Allied  with  his  son-in-law  Gelon,  the  tyrant  of  Syra- 
cuse, he  defeated  the  Carthaginians  at  Himera  480  (p.  278),  after  which  he 
devoted  his  attention  to  the  improvement  of  Acragas.  The  town  stood  on 
a  hill  descending  precipitously  on  the  K.  side,  and  sloping  gently  towards 
the  coast  on  the  S.,  bounded  by  the  two  rivers  Acragas  ( S.  Biagio)  and 
Hypsas  (Drago).  It  consisted  of  two  parts  :  the  Acropolis  to  the  left,  where 
the  modern  town  (1082  ft.)  stands,  erroneously  called  Camiciis  by  many,  and 
where  the  temple  of  Zeus  Polieus  stood;  and  the  Rock  of  Athene  (1104  ft.) 
to  the  right,  with  the  ancient  town  extending  downwards  towards  the  sea, 
by  the  walls  of  which  the  ruined  temples  now  lie.  Besides  these  there  was 
also  a  Neapolis  (Plutarch),  which  was  probably  the  seaport-town.  Prisoners 
of  war  (of  whom  some  of  the  citizens  possessed  as  many  as  500  each)  were 
compelled  to  excavate  the  subterranean  canals ;  the  temples  were  also  erect- 
ed at  that  period,  and  a  large  fish-pond  constructed.  This  was  the  climax 
of  the  prosperity  of  Acragas.  Theron's  successors  subsequent  to  472  were 
in  every  respect  his  inferiors.  They  were  at  length  banished,  and  from 
Acragas  a  democratic  revolution  spread  throughout  the  whole  of  Sicily. 
The  constitution,  however,  established  by  Empedocles  at  Acragas  appears 
to  have  been  of  a  mixed  character.  The  wealth  of  the  citizens  was 
enormous.  'They  built1,  it.  has  been  said  of  them,  'as  if  they  expected  to 
live  for  ever1.  The  population  has  been  stated  at  800,000,  but  probably 
did  not  exceed  ^ith  of  that  number.  After  the  city  had  remained  neutral 
during  the  war  between  Athens  and  Syracuse,  it  succumbed  in  406  to  the 
Carthaginian  generals  Hamilcar  and  Ilimilco  and  the  treachery  of  its 
own  leaders.  The  inhabitants  lied  during  the  night  to  Gela.  Himilco 
caused  the  city  to  be  plundered  and  the  works  of  art  to  be  sent  to  Car- 
thage. The  temples  were  burned  down  (traces  of  the  action  of  fire  being 
observable  on  No.  6).  Until  the  time  of  Timoleon  the  city  remained  a 
scene  of  devastation.  That  tyrant  sent  a  colony  thither,  and  the  town 
again  prospered,  at  one  time    as    an    independent   state,    at   another   undei 


262      Route  3D.  GIUGEN'TI.  Temple  of  Concord. 

the  Carthaginian  supremacy.  In  the  First  Punic  War  the  citizens,  as  the 
allies  of  Carthage,  were  in  a  position  to  furnish  the  Carthaginians  with 
a  contingent  of  25,000  men ,  and  in  262  the  Romans  besieged  the  city. 
The  battle  fought  without  the  walls  was  not  decisive,  but  was  so  favourable 
to  the  Romans,  that  the  Carthaginians  were  compelled  to  withdraw 
their  troops  to  Heraclea.  The  city  was  then  plundered  by  the  Romans, 
and  shortly  after  by  the  Carthaginian  general  Carthalo  also.  In  the  Second 
Punic  War  the  Carthaginians  maintained  themselves  longest  in  this  part 
of  Sicily,  and  Acragas  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Romans  only 
through  the  treachery  of  the  Numidians.  Thenceforward  the  town  (Agri- 
gentum)  was  a  place  of  little  importance.  The  Saracens  took  possession 
of  it  in  828,  and  it  became  a  rival  of  Palermo,  being  chiefly  colonised 
by  the  Berbers.  In  J.086  the  town  was  taken,  and  a  well-endowed 
bishopric  founded,  by  Roger  I.,  and  St.  Gerlando  became  the  first  bishop. 

Ill  order  to  visit  the  ruins,  we  quit  the  town  by  the  Porta 
del  Ponte  ( PL  26) ,  and  ascend  past  the  suppressed  Capuchin 
monastery  of  S.  Vito  to  the  *Rock  of  Athene  (1151  ft.),  or  Eupe 
Atenea  (PI.  2).  It  has  been  supposed  that  a  temple  of  Athene 
once  stood  here,  hut  the  most  recent  investigations  show  this  to 
he  very  doubtful.  According  to  a  local  tradition,  the  depression 
between  the  town  and  the  rock  was  artificially  formed  by  Empe- 
docles  to  admit  of  the  passage  of  the  Tramontana  and  thus  dispel 
the  malaria.  The  view  in  every  direction  is  magnificent,  particu- 
larly by  evening  light.  On  the  E.  slope  of  the  rock  (689  ft.)  are 
the  fragments  of  a  small  Greek  temple  'in  antis',  said  to  have 
been  dedicated  to  *Ceres  and  Proserpine  (PI.  3),  afterwards  con- 
verted into  the  Norman  church  of  S.  Biayio.  At  the  foot  of  the 
rock  is  the  Fontana  del  Greet .  the  mouth  of  an  ancient  channel 
4'/-2  M.   in   length,   which   supplied  Girgenti  with  water. 

We  next  visit  the  so-called  **  Temple  of  Juno  Lacinia  (PI.  (3), 
which  is  said  to  have  contained  the  painting  of  Juno  executed 
by  Zeuxis  from  the  five  most  beautiful  virgins  of  Acragas  as 
models.  The  temple  (394  ft.)  is  magnificently  situated  at  the 
point  where  the  town-wall ,  consisting  of  huge  masses  of  rock, 
turns  from  E.  to  S.  The  approach,  a  few  min.  to  the  N.  of 
the  temple,  by  which  the  descent  to  the  Fiume  S.  Biagio  is 
still  made,  is  ancient.  The  temple  is  a  peripteros-hexastylos  with 
thirty-four  columns  of  the  most  perfect  period  of  the  Doric  style 
(about  the  year  500).  The  columns  have  twenty  flutes,  and 
their  height  is  five  times  their  diameter.  Earthquakes  have  here 
completed  the  work  of  destruction  :  sixteen  pillars  only  are  left 
standing;  those  on  the  iS.  and  E.  sides  have  been  disintegrated 
by  exposure  to  the  Sirocco.  In  front  of  the  pronaos  of  the  temple 
are  two  narrow  terraces.  To  the  W.  an  ancient  cistern.  In  the 
town-wall  are  tombs. 

The  so-called  Temple  of  Concord  (PI.  <"S)  is  one  of  the  best- 
preserved  ancient  temples  in  existence  .  as  it  was  converted  in 
the  middle  ages  into  a  church  of  S.  O'reyorio  delle  Rape  ('of 
the  turnips').  The  arched  openings  in  the  wall  of  the  cella 
belong    to    that    period.     The    temple    is    a  peripteros-hexastylos. 


Temple  of  Zeus.  GIRUENT1.  lit).  Route.      263 

later  than  that  of  Juno  Lacinia,  but  alsn  erected  before  the  decline 
of  the  Doric  style,  its  thirty-four  columns  with  the  architrave 
and  frontons  are  still  standing.  The  incisions  for  beams  are  al- 
most all  of  later  origin.  Staircases  in  the  corners  of  the  wall 
of  the  cella  ascend  to   the  summit. 

On  the  left  of  the  road,  between  this  and  the  next  temple, 
on  this  side  of  the  white  wall,  is  the  Orotta  de'  Franyapani,  a 
dome-shaped  tomb  in  the  rock,   with  numerous  loculi. 

Not  far  from  the  Temple  of  Concord  are  the  ruins  of  the  so- 
called  *Temple  of  Hercules  (PI.  10),  a  peripteros-hexastvlos  of 
thirty-eight  columns,  or,  from  a  different  point  of  view,  an  ainphi- 
prostylos-hyp;cthros.  Fragments  of  the  entablature,  with  remains 
of  painting,  are  now  in  the  museum  at  Palermo.  It  is  said  to 
have  contained  the  famous  painting  of  Alcmenc  by  Zeuxis.  From 
this  temple  Verres  attempted  to  steal  the  statue  of  Hercules  by 
night,   but  his  workmen  were  driven  away  by  the  pious  citizens. 

Adjoining  the  temple  is  the  Porta  Aurea  (PI.  11),  the  town- 
gate  towards  the  harbour,  by  which  the  Komans  entered  the  city 
in  210.  A  road  to  the  Molo  leads  through  this  gate.  Within 
the  walls,  about  '/o  M.  from  the  gate,  is  the  Norman  church  of 
S.  Xiccol'u  (PI.  25;  a  tolerable  osteria  near  it).  The  neighbouring 
Oratorium  of  Phalaris  (PI.  21),  probably  once  a  small  Sacellum, 
was  afterwards  converted  into  a  Norman  chapel.  The  adjoining 
Panitteri  garden  contains  the  Corinthian  entablature  of  an  ancient 
circular  building  and  remains  of  statues. 

To  the  left,  outside  the  Porta  Aurea,  is  the  so-called  ''-'Tomb  of 
Theron  (PI.  12),  which,  like  the  temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux  and  the 
Oratorium  of  Phalaris,  is  of  later  Greek  origin.  According  to 
Serradifalco,  it  is  a  cenotaph  of  the  Iioman  period  (V).  In  a  house 
between  the  Tomb  of  Theron  and  the  confluence  of  the  Acragas 
and  Hypsas,  where  the  army  of  the  Ilomans  was  posted  during 
the  siege ,  are  preserved  fragments  of  an  edifice  which  appears 
to  have  been  a  'templum  in  antis',  perhaps  the  Temple  of  Aescu- 
lapius (PI.  13),  containing  the  celebrated  statue  of  Apollo  by 
Myron,   which  once    stood  here. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Porta  Aurea  lie  the  ruins  of  the  **Temple 
of  Zeus  (PI.  15),  which  was  never  completed.  This  vast  struc- 
ture, which  has  been  extolled  by  Polybius  and  described  by  Dio- 
dorus,  was  erected  between  4S(J  and  400.  It  was  a  pseudo-pe- 
ripteros-hypa'thros  with  thirty-seven  huge  half-columns  six  at 
the  entrance,  seven  at  the  E.  end,  and  twelve  mi  each  side,  each 
20  ft.  in  circumference,  with  flutings  broad  enough  to  admit  of  a 
man  standing  in  them,  and  the  same  number  of  pilasters  in  the 
interior.  Within  the  walls  of  the  cella.  although  uncertain  where, 
stood  the  colossal  Telamones  or  Atlantic,  one  of  which  has  been 
reconstructed  ,  and  measures  25  ft.  They  are  supposed  to  have 
been    placed   above    the    pilasters    as    bearers    of   the  entablature. 


264      Route  30, 


GIRGENTT. 


Cathedral. 


In  the  tympanum  of  the  E.  side  was  represented  the  contest  of 
the  gods  with  the  giants,  on  the  W.  side  the  conquest  of  Troy. 
Down  to  1401  a  considerable  part  of  the  temple  was  still  in 
existence ,  hut  it  has  been  gradually  removed,  and  in  recent 
times  was  laid  under  contribution  to  aid  in  the  construction  of 
the  Molo  of  Girgenti. 

Near  this  temple  M.  Cavallari  has  caused  four  Doric  columns 
of  a  temple  to  be  placed ,  which  is  commonly  called  that  of 
Leda  (PL  Hi),  from  a  statue  of  Leda  found  here.  Fragments  of 
the  entablature  bear  distinct  traces  of  stucco  and  colouring.  It 
was  a  peripteros-hexastylos  of  thirty-four  columns.  Near  it  are 
the  substructions  of  the  so-called  temple  of  Castor  and  Pollux. 

Approximate  Dimensions  of  the    temples   in  English  feet: 


rwv« 

Jim.  Lac. 

Coiirurd 

Hcrctrt. 

Zeus 

Leda 

.Esail. 

Length  inch  steps 

90 

134 
64 

138 

241 

363 

111 

- 

Breadth      .     .     . 

40 

64>|2 

90 

182 

51 

40 

Length  of  cella 

- 

91 

94 

156 

302 

79 

25 

Breadtli  of  cella 

- 

30 

30 

45 

6S 

iS>|* 

- 

Height  of  columns 
with  capitals  . 

- 

2! 

22' |2 

33 

55 

21 

- 

Diameter    of    co- 
lumns    .     .     . 

- 

4 

4>|,> 

11 

11 

33(4 

- 

Intercolumnia    . 

~ 

u'j* 

5>|* 

7-1J4 

— 

— 

Height  of  entabla- 
ture   .... 

- 

— 

9>|„ 

- 

- 

— 

- 

On  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  which  is  said  to  have  once 
been  occupied  by  the  fish-pond  (piscina)  mentioned  by  Diodorus, 
is  a  garden  containing  remains  of  what  is  styled  the  Temple  of 
Vulcan  (PI.  '20),  whence  a  fine  view  of  the  temples  opposite 
is  obtained.  Of  the  spring  of  oil  mentioned  by  Pliny  no  trace 
has  been  found.  The  Hippodrome  probably  lay  to  the  N.  of  the 
temple  of  Vulcan.  Remains  of  the  celebrated  Cloacae  of  Phaeax 
still  exist  in  the  Piscina.  The  Catacombs,  or  subterranean  quarries 
and  caverns  below  the  present  town,  are  probably  of  earlier  origin. 
They  are  visited  from  the  entrance  to  the  church  del  Purgatorio. 

The  loftily  situated  Cathedra]  (1082  ft.;  PI.  28),  begun  in 
the  14th  cent.,  now  presents  a  combination  of  almost  every  archi- 
tectural style.  The  best  part  is  the  unfinished  tower  which 
commands  an  admirable  view.  The  interior  is  modernised.  In 
the  X.  aisle,  between  the  two  first  columns,  is  a  celebrated  marble 
sarcophagus  (shown  by  the  sacristan),  with  representations  in 
relief  of  tho  myth   of  Hippolytus. 


Museum.  GIUGENTJ.  30.  Route.     265 

On  one  side  Hippolytus  hunting  and  in  the  act  of  slaying  a  boar.  On 
one  end  Phsedra  pining  for  love,  behind  her  the  nurse  who  unveils  her; 
before  her  young  girls  playing  on  the  guitar;  Cupid  discharges  his  shafts 
from  beneath,  which  Phjedra  appears  to  ward  off  with  her  left  hand.  On 
the  other  side  the  nurse  divulges  to  Hippolytus  the  love  of  his  step-mother  ; 
he  turns  sorrowfully  aside.  On  the  fourth  side  Hippolytus  in  a  recumbent 
position  ;  behind  him  the  sea-monster.  The  first  and  fourth  sides  are  in- 
ferior to  the  others.  The  whole  is  probably  a  copy,  executed  during  the 
lioman  period,  from  a  fine  ancient  work. 

An  acoustic  peculiarity  in  the  cathedral  is  noteworthy.  A  person 
standing  on  the  steps  of  the  high-altar  can  distinguish  every  word  spoken 
on  the  threshold  of  the  principal  W.  entrance,  though  the  distance  is 
90   ft.      In    the   >T.    transept,  to    the  left,  is  a  Madonna  by    Ouido  Rent. 

The  Cathedral  Archives  now  deposited  in  the  barracks  of  the  Cara- 
binieri,  contain  numerous  documents  from  the  Norman  period  of  Sicilian 
history;  Sicilian  popular  songs  of  1680;  a  letter  of  1676,  the  authorship 
of  which  is  attributed  to  the  devil  ;  a  fine  ancient  vase  from  a  tomb  of 
tiirgenti. 

From  the  cathedral  we  proceed  to  the  neighbouring  church 
of  S.  Maria  dei  Greci  (closed,  custodian  1/2  'r0>  which  contain* 
fragments  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  Polieus  (PI.  1).  It  was  a 
peripteros-hexastylos,  but  its  dimensions  are  unknown.  Its  re- 
mains are  the  most  ancient  in  Girgenti. 

The  Museum,  under  the  supervision  of  Sign.  Pecconi,  contains 
a  few  vases ,  coins ,  and  fragments  of  marbles.  Baron  Oenuardi 
(see  below)  also  possesses  several  handsome  Greek  vases. 

The  most  interesting  media:val  structures  are  the  portal  of 
San  Giorgio  and  the  Palazzo  Buonadonna. 

The  Passeggiata  ,  below  the  Rupe  Atenea ,  where  a  band  plays 
three  times  a  week,  in  the  evening  in  summer,  and  from  12  to  1 
in  winter,  commands  a  charming  view.  In  clear  weather  the  island 
of  Pantellaria  is  visible  shortly  before  sunset. 

To  the  >T.  of  Girgenti,  7  M.  distant  (donkey  2-3  fr.),  and  3  SI.  to  the 
W.  of  the  Palermo  road,  rises  the  small  mud-volcano  of  Maccaluba.  a  hill 
138  ft.  in  height  (859  ft.  above  the  sea),  consisting  of  clay  and  limestone. 
It  is  covered  with  a  number  of  small  cones  2-3  ft.  high ,  from  the  fissures 
of  which  hydrogen  is  emitted  with  considerable  noise.  Mud  and  stones 
are  occasionally  hurled  into  the  air  to  a  great  height.  This  excursion 
is  recommended  to  the  notice  of  the  scientific ,  especially  in  the  rainy 
season. 

A  visit  to  the  Sulphur  Mini's  in  the  environs  of  Girgenti  is  also 
interesting.  An  introduction  to  Baron  Genuardi,  the  proprietor,  will  be 
of  essential  service. 


31.    Inland  Route  from  Palermo  to  Catania. 

High  Road  from  Palermo  to  S.  Caterina  and  Railwat  thence  to  Ca- 
tania (132  M.).  —  With  the  aid  of  the  Girgenti  line  from  Palermo  to 
Roceapalumba-Alia,  the  journey  may  be  performed  in  20  hrs.  —  After  rain 
enquiry  should  be  made  whether  the  rivers  are  passable.  Information  as 
to  trains  and  diligences  may  be  obtained  at  the  oflice  at  Palermo  (p.  229). 
—  Provisions  for  the  journey  necessary. 

The  Railway  from  Palermo  to  Catania  (156  M.j  will  be  identical 
with  the  Girgenti  line  as  far  as  Cmnpofrunco ,  beyond  Spina  (p.  'MiO). 
Diverging  thence  to  the  K.,  it  will  ascend  by  the  course  of  the  ftrtlito,  and 
penetrate  the  watershed  between  Fiiime  Platani  and  F.  S.ilso  by  a  tunnel 
to  the  W.  of  S.  Cuterina  (p.  260). 


206      Route  VI.  H.  CATER1NA.  From  Palermo 

The  road  leads  to  the  E.  by  Abate  and  Portelln  di  Mare  at 
the  foot  of  Monte   Griffone,    Oibelrosso,   and  Buongiorno  to  — 

T'/o  M.  Misilmeri ,  a  notorious  haunt  of  banditti  (7300  iu- 
hab.),  where  the  diligence  is  provided  with  an  escort.  The  road 
ascends  and  quits  the  Fiume  de'  Mirti  or  Ficarazzi  valley  beyond 
Oyliastro,  another  town  (2000  inhab.)  of  bad  repute.  Between 
Ogliastro  and  the  post-station  — 

19  M.  Villafrati  lie  the  Bagni  di  Cifali  (Arabic  Gefalci), 
at  the  base  of  a  lofty  conical  hill  crowned  by  the  Castello  di 
Diana  (Kalata  Gefala) ,  whore  an  Arabic  inscription  was  dis- 
covered. Temperature  of  the  water,  102°  Fahr.  On  the  hill  to 
the  right  lies  Mezzojuso,  one  of  the  four  Albanian  colonies  {Piano 
dei  Greet ,  Palazzo  Adriano ,  and  Contessa  being  the  others) 
established  here  since  1482.  Its  Arabic  name  is  Menztl-Yussuf 
(village  of  Joseph).  The  road  now  skirts  the  Fiume  di  S.  Lio- 
nardo ,  which  falls  into  the  sea  near  Termini,  and  leads  to  the 
bridge  of  — 

26  M.  Vicari,  below  the  little  town  (4500  inhab.)  of  that 
name.  In  the  castle  of  Vicari,  Giovanni  di  S.  Remigio,  the  French 
governor  of  the  island,  who  had  fled  hither  after  the  Sicilian 
Vespers,  was  besieged  by  his  pursuers  from  Palermo,  and  shot. 
At  the  solitary  post-station  of  Mangonaro .  27!/2  M.  from  Pa- 
lermo, the  road  divides.  To  the  right  the  Via  Lercara  ascends  to 
Oirgenti,    to    the    left   the    Via   delle  Montague  leads  to  Catania. 

34  M.  Alia;  tlie  town  (4600  inhab.)  lies  on  an  abrupt  hill 
to  the  left.  The  road  traverses  a  dreary,  uninhabited  district  as 
far  as  the  post-station  La  Gulfa.  The  whole  of  this  tract  be- 
longs to  the  Principe  Villarosa. 

41  M.  Vallelunga  (5200  inhab.).  The  country  becomes  wilder. 
To  the  right  towers  the  Monte  Campanaro,  in  the  background 
are  the  Madonian  Mts.  The  Fiumicello,  an  affluent  of  the  Platani, 
is  crossed,  and  the  Monte  Mimiano  skirted  on  the  left,  beyond 
which  we  reach  the  solitary  post-station  of  — 

52'/2  M.  Landr'u.  The  road  ascends  Mte.  Mucini  (2214  ft.). 
In  the  distance  ,  beyond  vast  fields  of  wheat,  rise  the  indented 
peaks  of  Castrogiovanni  and  Calascibetta.  This  view  is  one  of 
the  most  extensive  in  the  interior  of  the  island. 

60  M.  S.  Caterina,  a  miserable  little  town,  is  at  present  the 
terminus  of  the  uncompleted  Railway  from  Palermo  to  Catania 
(hence  to  Catania,  72  M.,  in  4'/2  hrs. :  fares  13  fr.  15,  9  fr.  20, 
6  fr.  20  c. ).  Here  and  2  M.  farther  diverge  two  different  branches 
of   the    road  to  Caltanissetta    and  Girgenti  (p.   271 ). 

63'/2  M.  Jiaera.    Before  — 

70  M.  Villarosa  the  line  crosses  the  Fiume  Salso  (Himera 
Mcridionalis).  Villarosa  is  a  pleasant  looking  town,  with  valuable 
sulphur-mines  in  the  vicinity. 

The  train  passes  a  tunnel  beyond  which  is  the  station  of  — - 


to  Catania.  CASTROUIOVANNI.  31.  Route.      267 

761/2  M.  Castrogiovanni  (Locanda  alia  Stella,  bad),  thr  Arabic 
Kasr-Yanni,  a  corruption  of  Enna,  is  situated  on  the  summit  of 
a  hill  (2605  ft."),   the  view  from  which  repays  the  ascent. 

Cicero  has  described  Enna,  and  Livy  terms  it  'ine.\pugnabilis\  With 
this  mountain  the  myths  of  the  most  ancient  inhabitants  were;  intim- 
ately connected,  and  this  was  the  principal  seat  of  the  worship  of  the 
Pemeter-Cora  of  the  aborigines,  in  whose  honour  Gelon  rrectrd  a  magni- 
ficent temple  after  the  battle  of  Himera  in  480.  The  fertility  of  the  soil 
is  inferior  tn  what  it  was  in  ancient  times,  when  dense  forests,  brooks, 
and  lakes  converted  this  district  into  a  luxuriant  garden,  where  the 
hounds,  it  is  said,  lost  the  scent  of  their  game  amid  the  fragrance  of  the 
flowers,  and  the  fields  yielded  a  hundred-fold. 

Enna  was  founded  by  Syracuse  in  664,  and  shared  the  fortunes  of 
its  mother-city.  In  402  it  fell  by  treachery  into  the  hands  of  Dionysius  I., 
whose  son  took  it  by  surprise  ;  Agathocles  also  possessed  himself  of  the 
town  ;  in  the  First  Punic  War  it  was  captured  by  the  Carthaginians,  and 
finally  was  betrayed  to  the  Eomans.  When  the  slaves  under  Ennus  had 
thrown  themselves  into  Enna  the  Romans  only  regained  possession  of  the 
place  after  a  fierce  struggle.  The  siege  lasted  for  two  years  (133-132), 
and  to  this  day  Roman  missiles  are  found  at  the  approach  to  Castrogio- 
vanni where  the  ascent  is  most  gradual.  The  besieged  were  rediiced 
by  famine  rather  than  by  force  of  arms.  In  837  the  Saracens  in  vain 
endeavoured  to  storm  the  town,  to  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  whole 
surrounding  district  had  fled  for  refuge.  In  859  Ahbas-ihn-Fahdl  gained 
possession  of  the  fortress  through  treachery,  a  prisoner  having  introduced 
the  Arabs  into  the  town  by  means  of  a  tunnel  on  the  X.  side.  The  booty 
was  enormous.  Some  of  the  women  were  sent  as  slaves  as  far  as  Bagdad. 
In  1080  the  Normans  took  the  town.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was  again 
partially  fortified. 

The  town  is  now  in  a  miserable  and  dilapidated  condition 
(14,500  inhab.").  On  Whit-Tuesday  an  important  cattle-market 
takes  place  here.  A  terrace  adjoining  the  Convento  S.  Francesco 
in  the  market-place  affords  a  tine  view.  At  the  W.  entrance  to 
the  town  rises  the   Torre  Pisana. 

Not  a  vestige  is  now  left  of  the  celebrated  temples  of  Demeter 
(Ceres)  and  Proserpine.  The  former  is  supposed  to  have  stood 
where  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Frederick  II.  are  situated,  at  the 
E.  end  of  the  plateau.  On  the  Monte  Salvo,  near  the  convent 
of  the  Padri  Riformati ,  stands  a  temple  of  Persephone.  The 
*View  from  the  town  ,  and  particularly  from  a  rock  in  front  of  the 
castle,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Sicily,  as  we  stand  at  the  central  point 
of  the  island  (Enna,  the  'umbilicus'  of  Sicily").  Towards  the  E. 
towers  the  pyramid  of  JEtnn;  to  the  N.  two  mountain-chains,  rami- 
fications of  the  Nebrodian  Mts.  ;  towards  the  N.N.E.  rises  Monte 
Artesino  (3914  ft.)  beyond  the  hill  of  Calascibetta.  On  the  upper 
prolongation  of  the  latter  lie  Leonforte  and  S.  Filippo ;  between 
the  two,  more  in  the  background,  Troina  (3651  ft.).  Farther  to 
the  E.  is  Centorbi.  In  an  extensive  basin  towards  the  N.N.W., 
on  a  precipitous  ridge  between  Monte  Artesino  and  the  Madonian 
Mts.,  are  Petralia  Soprana  and  Gangi.  To  the  N.W.  is  visible 
S.  Calogero  near  Termini;  to  the  W.  the  1'izzo  di  Cainmarata, 
Catania,  and  the  sea,  and  to  the  S.  the  Hora-aii  Mts.,  Licata, 
and  the  sea  again.    The  small  town  of  Calascibetta  (3800  inhab.), 


2<iS       Route.  31.  CENTURIPE.  From  Palermo 

situated  on  another  isolated  hill  (1555  ft.)  to  the  N.,   was  founded 
in  1080. 

From  Castrogiovanni  the  line  descends  by  a  side-valley  of  the 
fiittaino  (Chrysas)  to  — 

83y2  M-  Leonforte  (no  inn  ;i  a  cafe'  at  the  entrance)  where  it  is 
joined  by  a  road  from  Nicosia  and  Termini  (p.  284). 

Farther  on  are  the  stations  of  — 

89  M.  Assam  Valguarnera,  93  M.  Raddusa ,  97  M.  Agira, 
104  M.    C'atenanuova-Centuripe. 

On  the  hill  to  the  left,  C  M.  from  the  station,  and  rising  abruptly 
above  the  valley  of  the  Simeto,  is  situated  Centuripe,  or,  as  it  was  called 
until  recently,  C-ntorbi  (Albergo  della  Pare,  in  the  piazza,  very  poor),  with 
7300  inhab.  Magnificent  view  of  iEtna.  In  ancient  times  the  situation  of 
Centiiripae  was  compared  with  that  of  Eryx.  During  the  Roman  period 
this  was  an  important  place,  and  Celsus  was  born  here.  In  1233  it  was 
destroyed  by  Frederick  II.  on  account  of  its  disaffection,  and  the  popu- 
lation removed  to  Augusta  (p.  314).  Considerable  remains  of  the  ancient 
town-wall  are  preserved.  Numerous  vases  ,  terracottas  ,  coins  ,  and  cut 
stones  have  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood.  Antonio  Camerano  possesses 
a  line  collection  of  gems  and  terracottas.  An  introduction  to  the  Sindaco 
Emanuelc  lo  Giudice  is  desirable.  The  notary  Francesco  Camerano  fre- 
quently accompanies  visitors  to  the  antiquities.  Most,  of  the  vases  in  the 
Biseari  Museum  at  Catania   are  from  this  locality. 

The  train  enters  the  valley  of  the  Dittaino.  A  picturesque 
view  is  obtained  of  Centuripe  on  the  hill  to  the  left ,  and  of 
.Etna  farther  on.  106'/2  M-  Muglia,  11  li/2  M.  Sferro.  A  view  is 
now  obtained,  to  the  right,  of  the  Piano  di  Catania  which  begin* 
here.  114'/2  M.  Gerbini,  120i/2  M.  Motto.  8.  Anastasia  (p.  2fi9). 
The  Simeto  is  now  crossed.  127  M.  Bicocca. 
132  M.   Catania,   see  p.  302. 

High  Road  from  Leoxfokte  to  Catania. 

The  High  Road  (55  51.) ,  which  runs  farther  X.  than  the  railway, 
passes  more  interesting  places.  It  leaves  the  castle  of  Assaro  (Assorus, 
a  Sikelian  town)  on  the  left,  and  leads  by  Xissoriit  into  the  valley  of 
the  Fittme  ftaho.  an  affluent  of  the  Simeto. 

91  M.  (from  Palermo;  7 '/a  M.  from  Leonforte)  S.  Filippo  (VArgirb, 
now  an  insienific;.nt  place,  but  one  of  the  most  ancient  of  the  Sikelian 
cities  (Agtiritnit).  The  historian  Diodorns  gives  an  account  of  this  his 
native  town  and  relates  how  Hercules  visited  it.  during  his  wanderings 
with  Iolaus  and  was  worshipped  here.  It  appears  from  this  that  a  Phoe- 
nician colony  existed  here  at  a  remote  period.  Timoleon  colonised  the 
town  in  339  and  built  an  agora,  temple,  and  handsome  theatre,  of  which 
no  traces  remain.  St.  Philip ,  whose  festival  is  on  1st  May,  has  super- 
seded Hercules  as  the  tutelary  genius  of  the  place.  Fine  marble  is  found 
in  the  vicinity. 

JOO'/aM.  Regalbutv.  In  the  valley  below  lies  (faglirmo,  the  commandant 
of  which,  Montaner  di  Sosa.  in  1300,  lured  the  French  under  the  Count  of 
Brienne  into  an  ambuscade,  so  that  300  French  knights,  'I  Cavalieri  della 
Morte',  were  captured  or  slain.  High  above  (iagliann  lies  Troina  (3651  ft), 
the  loftiest  of  the  larger  towns  of  Sicily  (8000  inhab.).  This  was  one  of 
the  lirst  towns  of  which  the  Normans  gained  possession  in  10G2.  Here  in 
1003,  Roger  de  I lauteville,  with  his  heroic  wife  Giuditt.a  (Judith  of  Kvroult) 
and  3IKI  warriors,  defeated  the  rebellious  inhabitants  and  5000  Saracens. 
The  bishopric  founded  here  was  transferred  to  Messina  in  1087.  The 
iiasilhni    monastery    w;.s    founded    by    Koger.       The    lirst    abbot    was    his 


to  Catania.  ADEKNO.  31.  Route.      209 

brother-in-law  Robert  of  Evroult.     In  the  Matriee    S.  Maria    traces  of  the 
ancient  Norman  structure  are  distinguishable. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Simeto  we  first  observe  the  lava-streams  of  JEtnn, 
the  oldest  of  which  dates  from  101U.  About  '/a  M.  above  the  iron  bridge 
arc  situated  the  remains  of  a  Roman  aqueduct  (Pottte  Carcaci),  probably 
dating  from  the  period  of  the  Servile  War.  From  the  Poute  and  Fonduco 
de'  Maccaruni  the  road  ascends  to  (2  31.1  Aderno,  on  the  lowest  terrace 
of  Mt.  iEtna. 

114  M.  Aderno  (Locanda  deW  Aquila;  hoc.  delta  Fenice),  a  wealthy 
town  with  14,700  inhabitants.  In  the  Piazza  stands  the  quadrangular 
Norman  castle  erected  by  Roger  I.,  now  used  as  a  prison;  the  interior  is 
very  dilapidated.  In  the  chapel  are  seen  remains  of  frescoes  representing 
Adelasia,  grand-daughter  of  Roger  I.,  taking  the  veil.  The  monastery  of 
S.  Lucia,  nearly  opposite,  was  founded  by  Roger  in  1157.  In  ancient  times 
the  Sikelian  city  of  Hadranum  stood  here,  celebrated  on  account  of  its 
temple  of  Zeus  Adranos  which  was  guarded  by  1000  dogs.  Fragments  of 
this  structure,  probably  of  the  cella,  are  shown  in  the  garden  of  Salvatore 
Palermo  at  a  place  called  Cartellemi,  on  the  right  outside  the  town.  This 
was  the  headquarters  of  Timoleon  after  he  had  defeated  Hicetas  of 
Syracuse  near  Schitino,  between  Paterno  and  Aderno.  —  The  road  de- 
scends from  Aderno  to  the  town  of  — 

116  M.  Biancavilla,  with  12,600  inhab.,  some  of  whom  are  of  Albanian 
origin. 

123'/^  M.  S.  Maria  di  Licodia.  The  town  of  Etna,  iounded  by  Hiero, 
on  which  occasion  ^Esehylus  composed  one  of  his  tragedies,  is  said  to 
have  lain  in  this  neighbourhood.  Between  Licorlia  anil  Paterno,  on  the 
right,  1  M.  below  Licodia,  is  the  beginning  of  the  Roman  aqueduct  to 
Catania. 

125  M.  Paterno  (Locanda  di  Sicilia ,  tolerable;  Albergo  della  Fenice, 
clean),  on  the  site  of  the  former  Sikelian  town  of  Hybla  Minor ,  founded 
by  Roger  I.,  who  erected  the  castle  above  the  town  in  1073,  now  contains 
16,000  inhab.,  chiefly  of  the  lower  classes,  the  landed  proprietors  having 
retired  to  Catania  to  escape  the  malaria  which  prevails  here.  The  square 
tower  of  the  castle,  like  those  of  Aderno  and  Motta,  is  used  as  a  prison. 
Around  this  stronghold  on  the  hill  was  situated  the  former  town,  where 
now  the  Matrice  and  the  Capuchin  and  Franciscan  monasteries  (fine  view 
of  the  valley)  alone  stand. 

Hybla  became  completely  Hellenised  at  so  early  a  period  that  it  was 
the  only  Sikelian  town  which  did  not  participate  in  the  insurrection 
against  the  Greeks  in  450  under  Ducetius.  In  415  the  territory  of  the 
town  was  devastated  by  the  Athenians.  The  ancient  road  between  Catania 
and  Centuripee  passed  by  Hybla.  Two  arches  of  the  bridge  over  the 
Simeto  are  still  standing.  /Etna  was  ascended  from  this  point  in  ancient 
times.  In  the  Contntda  di  Bella  Cortina,  in  (he  direction  of  the  moun- 
tain, remains  of  baths  have  been  discovered.  In  the  vicinily  is  the  Grotta 
del  Fracasso,  through  which  an  impetuous  subterranean  stream  flows.  To 
the  N.E.  of  Paterno,  on  the  slopes  of  J?tna,  lies  the  town  of  Beljwsso 
(7600  inhab.),  destroyed  by  an  eruption  in  1669,  and  subsequently  re-erect- 
ed on  a  new  site  (Mezzocampo).  The  air  here  was  found  to  be  unhealthy, 
in  consequence  of  which  the  inhabitants  quitted  the  place  and  rebuilt  their 
town  on  its  original  site,  where  it  now  stands.  By  making  a  circuit  round 
the  Monti  Rossi,  the  traveller  may  from  this  point  reach  Nicolosi  (p.  308), 
whence  iEtna  is  most  conveniently  ascended. 

Before  the  descent  is  made  to  Misterhianeo,  the  last  town  before  Ca- 
tania, a  road  diverges  to  the  right  to  the  town  of  Motta  Santa  Anastasia, 
with  a  castle  on  a  precipitous  basaltic  cone,  rising  above  the  Piano  di 
Catania  (beautiful  view).  In  the  tower  of  this  castle  Bernardo  Cabrera 
(comp.  p.  275),  the  supreme  judge  of  Sicily,  was  confined  by  the  nobles 
in  1410  and  treated  with  great  cruelty.  From  Motta  the  high  road  may 
be  regained  near  Misterbianco  by  traversing  the  valley  to  the  right.  To 
the  left  before  reaching  the  main  road,  near  Erbe  Bianclie,  we  observe  the 
fragments  of  a  Roman  building ,  and  a  few  hundred  feet  farther  the  re- 
mains of  baths,  called  Uainvsi. 


270      Route  31.  CALTAGIRONE.  From  Palermo 

135  Jr.  Misterbianco,  a  town  with  6300  inliab.,  was  destroyed  in  1669. 
To  the  right  rises  the  Montecardillo,  the  S.E.  crater  of  the  JEtna,  group, 
overlooking  the  plain.  Crossing  the  lava-stream  of  1669 ,  we  now  enter 
the  Porta  del  Fortino  of  — 

138i/i!  31.   Catania  (p.  302). 

Fkom  Castrogiovanni  to  Catania  by  Caltagirone. 

From  Castrogiovanni  to  Caltagirone  30  M.  The  bridle-path,  passing 
numerous  grottoes  and  caverns,  descends  to  the  S.  In  2  hrs.  the  Lago  Per- 
giixa  is  reached,  the  fabled  locality  whence  Pluto  carried  off  Proserpine. 
Of  the  shady  and  lofty  trees,  the  fragrant  flowers  on  the  banks  of  the  lake 
covered  with  swans,  and  the  'perpetuum  ver'  of  ( >vid  not  a  symptom 
remains.  The  lake,  with  its  clear-,  dark  blue  water,  presents  a  pleasant 
appearance  in  spring  only.  At  other  times,  like  the  neighbouring  Stagni- 
r.ello,   it  is  a  dirty  pond,  used  by  the    inhabitants    for   steeping   their   tlax. 

From  the  lake  to  Piazza  a  ride  of  13  M.  Before  reaching  Piazza  we 
join  the  carriage-road  which  leads  from  Caltanissetta  (p.  271)  by  Pietraperzia 
(1463  ft.)  and  Banafranca  to  (39  31.)  Piazza. 

Piazza  (Albergo  deWAquila  Nera,  moderate),  Sicil.  Chiazza,  lies  near 
the  junction  of  the  roads  mentioned  above  with  those  from  Castrogiovanni 
(p.  267) ,  Aidone ,  and  Terranova.  We  follow  the  last  of  these  towards 
the  S.  to  8.  Coxo,  where  it  divides,  one  branch  descending  to  the  right 
to  Terranova,  the  other  ascending  to  the  left  by  S.  Michele  to  (13  31.)  — 

Caltagirone  (26,000  inhab.),  regarded  as  the  most  civilised  provincial 
town  in  Sicily.  Although  2172  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  it  is  well-built  and 
possesses  a  line  promenade  and  market-place,  whence  a  lofty  flight  of 
steps  ascends  to  the  old  castle.  The  aristocracy  of  the  place  is  zealous 
in  promoting  public  education.  Pottery  is  the  staple  commodity,  and 
the  traveller  may  purchase  very  characteristic,  well-executed  figures  of 
.Sicilians  and  Calabrians ,  in  their  national  costumes.  The  town  com- 
mands a  niagniticent  view  in  every  direction. 

From  Caltagirone  diligence  to  Catania  in  10  hrs.  (47'(v>  31.).  On  the 
mountain-range  to  the  right  lie  the  towns  of  Gramntichele,  Mineo,  founded 
by  Ducetius,  and  taken  by  the  Saracens  in  840,  and  Militello.  Near  Fava- 
rolla  the  road  passes  the  famous  Lactis  Paiicorum  (Lago  di  Palizi),  which 
is  generally  490  ft.  in  circumference  and  13  ft.  deep  in  the  middle.  In 
dry  seasons  it  sometimes  disappears  entirely.  Two  apertures  (fratres  Pa- 
llet) in  the  centre  emit  carbonic  acid  gas  with  such  force  that  the  water  is 
forced  upwards  to  a  height  of  2  ft.,  and  the  whole  surface  is  agitated  as 
if  boiling.  Birds  are  suffocated  in  attempting  to  fly  across  the  lake,  and 
horses  and  oxen  experience  difficulty  in  breathing  as  soon  as  they  enter 
the  water.  The  ancients  regarded  the  spot  as  sacred  and  the  peculiar 
resort  of  the  gods.  The  Dii  Palici  were  believed  to  be  sons  of  Zeus  and 
the  nymph  Thalia.  A  sumptuous  temple  was  accordingly  erected  here,  to 
which  the  pious  flocked  from  all  quarters.  The  historian  Fazello  mentions 
the  ruins  of  this  edilice  as  having  existed  in  the  16th  cent.  ,  but  every 
vestige  of  them  has  now  disappeared.  Fugitive  slaves  found  an  asylum 
in  this  temple.  An  oath  sworn  whilst  the  hand  was  held  opposite  the  orifice 
from  which  the  gas  issued  was  deemed  peculiarly  solemn.  At  no  great 
distance  from  this  spot  Ducetius  founded  the  town  of  Palica ,  which  has 
also  left  no  trace  of  its  existence.  The  name  ,  however,  may  still  be  re- 
cognised in  Patagonia,  a  small  medneval  town,  once  the  property  of  the 
naval  hero  Iloger  Loria.  Below  Palagonia  the  iioad  ascends  to  the  Fondaco 
'Pre,  Fontanel  to  the  right  lies  Xcordiu,  which  yields  the  best  oranges  in 
Sicilv.  The  road  then  proceeds  to  the  left  of  the  Biviere  di  Lentiiti,  runn- 
ing parallel  with  the  Finine  (invnaliinga,  and  unites  with  the  road  from 
Catania  to   Syracuse. 


271 
32.  From  Girgenti  by  Caltanissetta  to  Castrogiovanni 

(Catania). 

Diligence  from  Girgenti  daily  at  6  a.  m.,  arriving  at  Caltanissetta  at 
4  p.  m.  —  The  journey  may  then  be  continued  by  diligence  to  the  railway- 
station  of  S.  Caterina  (p.  266);  or,  after  spending  a  night  at  Caltanissetta, 
the  traveller  may  take  the  direct  diligence  next  morning  at  5  a.  m.  to 
Cast-rogiovaitni,  arriving  there  at  9  a.  in.  (p.  267J.  —  When  the  state  of  the 
country  requires    it,  the  diligence  is  always  provided  with  .  n  escort.'^ 

This  route  will  be  greatly  improved  by  the  new  line  from  Licaltt  to 
Villarosa  (a  station-  of  the  Palermo-Catania  railway,  p.  366.1,  which  is  at 
present  in  course  of  construction  and  will  shortly  be  opened.  The  tra- 
veller will  then  take  the  diligence  only  as  far  as  Caniaitti  (see  belowj 
and  proceed  thence  by  railway  (stations  Serradifalco,  <S.  Cululdo  and 
Caltanissetta)  to  Villarosa. 

We  leave  Girgenti  by  the  Porta  del  Ponte.  The  road  descends 
to  the  railway  and  runs  parallel  with  it  for  2]/.>  M.  It  then  enters 
the  valley  of  Le  Grotte,  and  reaches  (2  hrs.  after  starting)  Le  Grotte, 
the  ancient  Erbessus,  whence  the  Romans  derived  their  supplies  of 
provisions  while  besieging  Agrigentum  in  262.  It  is  a  poor  place 
with  6400  inhab.,  situated  in  the  midst  of  the  sulphur-mining 
district.     In  I1/4  hr.  more  we  reach  — 

Racalmuto  (Albergo  Centrale ,  with  trattoria) ,  a  beautifully 
situated  town  with  12,000  inhab.,  hitherto  notorious  as  a  haunt 
of  brigands,  but  rapidly  improving.  A  great  national  festival  takes 
place  here  on  the  day  of  S.  Michele  (7th  May). 

The  road  next  traverses  a  well  cultivated  country ,  and  in 
l'/4  hr.  we  reach  Canicatt'i ,  a  clean  town  with  20,000  inhab., 
situated  on  a  slight  eminence.  (Diligence  hence  by  Campobello  to 
Licata,  see  p.  272 ;  railway  in  course  of  construction,  see  above.) 
The  country  becomes  bleak;  pleasing  retrospect.  In  l'/2  nr-  niore 
we  come  to  Serra  di  Falc.o,  a  small  town  from  which  Domenico  lo 
Faso  Pietrasanta,  Duca  di  Serradifalco  (d.  1863)  ,  the  editor  of  the 
'Antichita  della  Sicilia',  derived  his  title.  In  another  hour  we  pass 
S.  Cataldo,  named  after  St.  Cataldus  of  Tarentum,  with  12,900  in- 
habitants, with  extensive  sulphur-mines  near  it.  In  1 1/2  hr.  more 
the  diligence  arrives  at  — 

Caltanissetta  [Alberyo  Concordia,  with  *trattoria ;  Aquila  Nera ; 
Italia;  *Cafe  near  the  cathedral),  a  provincial  capital,  with  26,000 
inhab.  A  band  plays  in  the  evening  in  the  piazza  in  front  of  the 
cathedral  (S.  Michele).  On  St.  Michael's  Bay  (7th  May)  a  large 
cattle-market  and  popular  festival  are  held  here. 

Diligence  daily  at  8  a.  m.  from  Caltanissetta  by  Pietraperzia,  Barra- 
fritnca,  and  Mazzarino  to  Terranova  (p.  273). 

About  2  31.  to  the  E.  of  Caltanissetta  lies  the  monastery  of  Badia  di 
S.  Spirito ,  a  fine  example  of  the  Norman  style,  erected  by  Roger  I. 
About  2  M.  farther  is  a  mud  volcano,  resembling  the  3iaccaluba  in  the 
Terra  Pilata  (p.  26o). 

Beyond  Caltanissetta  the  S.  Caterina  road  crosses  the  Mte. 
S.  Giuliano  (2385  ft.).  —  12  M.  8.  Caterina,  see  p.  266. 

A  diligence  also  runs  on  the  direct  road  to  Castrogiovanni, 
which  is  preferable  to  the  other.    We  leave  the  town  by  the  S.  Ca- 


272      Route  33.  PA  I, MA. 

leriua  road,  but  soon  turn  to  the  right  and  cross  a  hill,  where  we 
enjoy  a  flue  retrospect.  The  road  descends  into  a  basin  of  the 
Fiume  Salso  ,  which  it  crosses  by  a  handsome  bridge ,  and  then 
traverses  a  bleak  and  hilly  tract.  Castrogiovanni  at  length  becomes 
visible  on  a  lofty  hill,  and  the  land  is  now  better  cultivated. 
Castrogiovanni  and  thence  to  Catania,  see  p.  267. 

33.    From  Girgenti  to  Syracuse  by  Palma,  Licata, 
Terranova,  Modica  (Vald'Ispica),   and  Palazzolo. 

From  Girgenti  direct  to  Syracuse  the  traveller  may  either  select  the 
coast-route  which  we  are  about  to  describe,  or  take  the  steamer  which 
leaves  l'orto  Empedocle  once  weekly  (Sund.  afternoon;  see  p.  246),  and 
touches  at  Licata  and  Terranova,  stopping  1  hr.  at  each  of  these  places, 
a  voyage  of  1(>  hrs. ;  embarcation  or  landing  1  fr. 

The  coast-route  requires  4'J2-5  days:  1st:  Palma,  13  M.  (or  Licata, 
2i'|2  31.);  :2nd:  Terranova,  28  M.  (Vittoria  34  M.);  3rd:  Modica,  34  M. 
(Palazzolo  34  31.);  4th:  Palazzolo,  17  31.;  5th:  Syracuse,  28  31.  —  From 
Vittoria  a  carriage- road  and  diligence- communication  to  Syracuse,  by 
l'ngusa,  3Iodica,  and  Noto,  79  31.  Also  from  Palazzolo  diligence  to  Syra- 
cuse, 28  31.  Private  conveyances  are  more  easily  procured  at  Vittoria 
and  3todica  than  at  Palazzolo.  In  order  to  avoid  a  long  and  fatiguing 
ride,  as  well  as  an  unattractive  and  often  unsafe  part  of  the  route,  the 
traveller  should  if  possible  avail  himself  of  the  steamer  from  Girgenti 
to  Terranova.  Travellers  staying  at  Syracuse  may  thence  visit  the  most 
interesting  parts  of  this  district  (Palazzolo,  Val1  tTIspica,  etc.)  in  3  days, 
without  undertaking  the  above  route.  —  For  the  journey  from  Girgenti 
to  Licata  34  fr.  were  recently  paid  for  three  saddle-horses ,  one  sumpter- 
horse,  and  two  attendants. 

The  road  from  Girgenti  to  Palma  descends  from  the  Acropolis 
into  the  ancient  city,  intersects  the  valley  of  the  S.  Biagio,  and 
ascends  to  the  table-land,  where,  on  a  height  (1217  ft.)  to  the  left, 
is  situated  Favara  (15,200  inhab.),  with  a  picturesque  chateau  of 
the  Chiaramonte  of  the  14th  cent.  On  the  summit  of  a  hill 
(1942  ft.)  farther  to  the  left  rises  Naro  (10,400  inhab.),  also  pos- 
sessing a  castle  of  the  Chiaramonte  family.  Traversing  pasture- 
land,  within  a  few  miles  from  the  sea,  which  is  concealed  by  a 
low  chain  of  hills,   we  soon  enter  the  fertile  valley  of  — 

13  M.  Palma  (Vittoria,  landlord  Nicolo  Sortino).  The  town 
contains  no  attractions,  and  a  halt  is  seldom  made  here  unless  for 
the  night. 

Beyond  Palma  the  road  leads  through  a  beautiful  valley  with 
gigantic  almond-trees  (yielding  the  largest  almonds  in  Sicily),  to 
Licata,  on   the  Fiume  Salso,   the  ancient  Himera  MeridionaUs. 

'W/2  M.  Licata  {La  Bella  Sicilia ,  in  the  principal  street), 
with  l(i,600  inhab.,  occupies  the  site  of  the  town  which,  after  the 
destruction  of  Gela  in  280,  the  Tyrant  Phintias  of  Acragas  erected 
and  named  after  himself.  It  lies  at  the  base  of  the  hill  of  Poggio 
di  S.  Angela,  named  Exvou-oi;  by  the  Greeks,  because  Phalaris  once 
offered  his  inhuman  sacrifices  here. 

This  place  was  an  ancient  Phoenician-Carthaginian  fortification,  garri- 
soned   by    the    Carthaginians    during    their    war   with    Agathocles    in   310, 


TERRANOVA.  33  .  Route.      273 

whilst  the  latter  was  posted  on  Monte  della  Guardia  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river.  Agathocles  was  defeated  chiefly  owing  to  the  skill  of  the 
Balearic  slingers.  Here  in  256  Regulus,  before  his  expedition  to  Africa, 
vanquished  the  Carthaginian  fleet  in  one  of  the  greatest  naval  battles  on 
record ,  in  which  not  fewer  than  300,000  men  were  engaged.  Carthalo, 
favoured  by  a  storm,  destroyed  a  large  fleet  of  Roman  transports  on  this 
coast  in  249. 

Licata  (Alicata),  the  chief  trading  town  on  the  S.  coast  of 
Sicily,  exports  sulphur  extensively.  The  Messrs.  Legler,  a  Swiss 
firm,  may  be  applied  to  for  advice  in  case  of  emergency.  —  Rail- 
way from  Licata  to  Canicatti  and  Villarosa  in  course  of  construc- 
tion ;   see  p.  271. 

For  the  journey  from  Licata  to  Terranova  (17  M.)  25  fr. 
were  recently  paid  for  three  saddle-horses  and  a  sumpter-horse, 
including  attendant.  For  a  boat  25  fr.  is  also  charged.  The 
bargain  should  be  made  in  the  evening ,  and  the  start  made 
early  next  morning,  as  the  wind  is  apt  to  veer,  or  become  too 
high,  towards  noon.  The  road,  traversing  a  sterile  district,  at 
one  place  skirts  the  coast,  at  another  is  separated  from  it  by 
hills.  As  far  as  the  chateau  of  Falconara,  a  modern  residence  of 
Baron  Bordinaro,  wheat-fields  are  traversed,  and  the  road  is  bor- 
dered with  large  aloes.  High  above  Falconara  rises  the  small 
town  of  Butera  (1319  ft.),  which  was  besieged  by  the  Saracens 
in  853  for  five  months  before  it  succumbed,  and  which  they  re- 
tained down  to  1089.  The  next  cultivated  tract  is  reached  near 
Terranova,  the  Campi  Geloi  of  Virgil.  The  plain  here  is  chiefly 
planted  with  cotton.  The  height  on  the  right  immediately  before 
Terranova  is  reached  (Capo  Soprano)  was  the  ancient  Necropolis, 
where  numerous  vases  have  recently  been  found. 

4i1/2  M.  Terranova  (Domenieo  Outtilla,  in  the  Corso ;  Fenice; 
charges  according  to  bargain),  a  seaport  with  15,000  inhab.,  founded 
by  the  Emp.  Frederick  II.,  and  situated  on  a  hill,  is  intersected 
by  the  long  Corso  from  W.  to  S.  It  contains  little  to  interest  the 
traveller.  Sign.  Carlo  Navarra  possesses  a  collection  of  fine  ancient 
vases  found  in  the  neighbourhood ,  to  which  he  kindly  admits 
visitors. 

Near  Terranova  are  the  remains  of  Oela,  where  the  dramatist 
^Eschylus  died,   B.C.  456. 

Gela,  founded  in  690  by  a  Dorian  colony  under  Antiphemus  of  Rhodes 
and  Entimus  of  Crete,  so  rapidly  attained  to  prosperity  that  in  582  it  was 
itself  in  a  position  to  send  forth  a  colony  to  found  Acragas.  After  a 
period  of  aristocratic  government ,  Hippocrates  obtained  the  supreme 
power.  Under  his  rule  Gela  rose  to  the  zenith  of  its  prosperity  (498- 
491).  His  successor  Gelon  transferred  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
Deinomenides  to  Syracuse,  carrying  with  him  one-half  of  the  population 
of  Gela.  The  remainder  he  left  under  the  rule  of  his  brother  Hiero. 
In  405  Gela  was  captured  and  destroyed  by  the  Carthaginians  under  Ha- 
milcar.  The  description  given  by  Diodorus  (xiii.)  proves  that  the  town 
lay  to  the  E.  of  Terranova,  beyond  the  Fiume  of  Terranova  or  Gela.  The 
remains  of  a  Doric  temple  are  still  standing  about  i|2  ji.  to  the  E.  of  the 
town  (Piazza  del  Molino  a  Vento) ;  and  the  river  is  300  paces  beyond  them. 

Baedekeb.     Italy  III.    6th  Edition.  18 


274      Route  33.  VITTORIA.  From  Oirgenti 

Here  stood  the  temple  of  Apollo,  whose  celebrated  statue'was  sent  by  Hamil- 
car  to  Tyre,  where  it  was  found  by  Alexander  the  Great.  Here  also  the 
camp  of  the  Carthaginians  was  pitched.  Timoleon  re-ere;ted  the  town 
and  peopled  it  with  colonists.  Agathocles  subsequently  caused  5000  of 
the  inhabitants  to  be  put  to  the  sword ,  and  Phintias ,  the  tyrant  of 
Acragas,  totally  destroyed  the  town,  B.C.  280.  Since  that  period  it  has 
disappeared  from  the  pages  of  history. 

From  Terranova  to  Palazzolo.  The  direct  road  leads  by  (13  M.)  Bis- 
cay i  anil  (11  M.)  C/iiaramonte,  two  small  towns  containing  nothing  worthy 
of  note.  As  the  road ,  moreover,  is  bad ,  most  travellers  will  prefer  the 
circuit  by  Modica,  for  the  sake  of  seeing  the    Val  d'Ispica  (see  p.  275). 

The  route  from  Terrauova  (mule  to  Yittoria  5  fr.,  besides 
food  for  the  attendant)  runs  near  the  coast,  till  the  rivers  Gela 
and  Dirillo  (ancient  Achates)  have  been  crossed ,  and  afterwards 
joins  the  high  road  to  — 

58  M.  Vittoria  (Albergo  di  Michete  Santonocito,  with  trat- 
toria ,  good  wine ;  Locanda  dell'  Vnione) ,  a  town  with  about 
ltt,000  inhab. 

The  archteologist  is  recommended  to  take  the  route  from  Vittoria  to 
Modica  by  Scoglieti,  the  port  of  Vittoria,  and  past  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Camarina  (19  31.).  Camarina  was  founded  by  Syracuse  in  599,  and  destroyed 
in  553  for  attempting  to  assert  its  independence,  but  was  re-erected 
by  Hippocrates  of  Gela  after  the  battle  of  the  Helorus  (Telluro  or  Ahisso). 
Gelon  again  depopulated  the  town,  but  it  was  colonised  a  second  time  by 
Gela  in  461.  In  439  it  was  sacked  by  the  Syracusans,  and  during  the  war 
with  Athens  remained  neutral.  In  405  Dionysius  on  his  retreat  compelled 
the  inhabitants  to  follow  him,  and  the  town  was  destroyed  by  the  Carthagini- 
ans. In  339  it  was  re-colonised  by  Timoleon,  but  soon  afterwards  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Romans.  In  A.  D.  853  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by  Abbas-ibn- 
Fahdl.  Camarina  was  about  5  31.  in  circumference,  and  lay  to  the  right  of 
the  river  Cautarana  (ancient  Hipparis),  at  the  point  where  the  chapel  of 
the  Madonna  di  Camarana  now  stands  on  a  sandhill,  100  ft.  in  height. 

From  Camarina  we  proceed  to  (5^2  M.)  S.  Croce  (poor  inn),  and 
(11  M.)  Scieli  (Loc.  del  Carmine;  Loc.  de"1  Carceri).  a  town  with  10,000 
inhab.,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Syracusan  colony  Casiue/tae,  founded  in 
644.  From  Scieli  to  Modica  diligence  daily,  1  fr. ;  from  Modica  to  Noto, 
see  p.  277. 

From  Vittoria  to  Modica  (and  beyond  it)  diligence  daily,  ex- 
cept Sundays,   fare  5  fr.  40  c. ;   carriage   17-20  fr. 

The  road  from  Vittoria  to  Modica  leads  by  — 

62  M.  (\Jmiso,  a  miserable  country-town  with  16,600  in- 
habitants. The  famous  fountain  of  Diana ,  the  water  of  which 
refused  to  mingle  with  wine  when  drawn  by  women  of  impure 
character,  was  situated  here.  Beyond  Comiso  the  road,  bordered 
with  large  carob-trees,  ascends  the  hill  through  shadeless  fields. 
Descending  to  the  valley,   we  perceive  on  the  left  — 

75  M.  Ragusa  (poor  inns,  the  best  at  Kagusa  Inferiore), 
a  country-town  with  21,000  inhab.,  most  romantically  situated, 
probably  the  ancient  Hybla  Heraea.  It  consists  of  Kagusa  Supe- 
riore  and  Inferiore,  each  possessing  its  own  administration,  post- 
office,  etc.  The  whole  of  the  environs  belong  to  Baron  Arezzo 
di  Donnafugata,  who  possesses  a  cotton-factory  here.  The  neigh- 
bouring rocks  contain  numerous  grottoes.  Count  Bernardo  Cabrera 
(d.  1423),    an  adventurer  who    boldly  attempted  to  possess  him- 


to  Syracuse.  VAL  D'ISPICA.  33.  Route.      275 

self  of  the   crown   of  Sicily,    is   interred   in   the   church    of  the 
Capuchins. 

84'/-2  M.  Modica  (*Locanda  Bella  Italia,  with  trattoria;  Lo- 
canda  of  Maestro  Oiorgio,  near  the  Sotto-Prefettura ;  Locanda 
Nuova,  etc.),  with  33,100  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  ancient 
county  of  that  name,  lies  in  a  rocky  valley,  consisting  of  two 
ravines  which  unite  in  the  town.  The  height  between  the  val- 
leys affords  a  survey  of  the  three  arms  of  the  town ,  which 
itself  contains  nothing  worthy  of  mention. 

Fkom  Modica  by  the  Val  d'Ispica  to  Palazzolo,  a  jour- 
ney of  one  day  (two  mules  15  fr. ,  and  1  fr.  for  the  atten- 
dant; provisions  necessary),  beginning  at  sunrise.  It  is  not 
necessary,  as  the  guides  sometimes  assert,  to  return  from  the 
Val  d'Ispica  to  Modica ,  in  order  to  proceed  to  Palazzolo ;  nor 
could  that  circuit  be  easily  accomplished  in  a  single  day.  The 
road  from  Modica  to  Spaccaforno  is  quitted  beyond  the  road 
which  descends  to  Scicli ,  and  we  proceed  to  the  left  by  a  very 
rough  road  to  the  (6  M.)  interesting  and  picturesque  *Val 
d'Ispica,  a  rocky  ravine  6  M.  in  length,  in  the  limestone  rock 
of  which  subterranean  dwellings  and  tombs  have  been  dis- 
covered. 

The  banks  of  the  Mediterranean  appear  to  have  been  peopled  during 
a  pre-historic  period  by  a  race  who  excavated  their  dwellings  in  the 
rocks,  and  deposited  their  dead  in  rocky  niches  (didieri).  Caverns  of  this 
description  have  been  discovered  in  Sardinia,  the  Balearic  Islands,  in  the 
Cyrenaica,  and  in  Etruria.  They  occur  in  Sicily  in  considerable  numbers 
in  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  island  only,  between  Terranova  and  Syracuse ; 
a  few,  however,  have  been  found  near  Caltabelotta  (di  San  Cono)  and 
between  Bronte  and  Maletto  dei  Giganti.  They  may  perhaps  be  attributed 
to  the  Sicanians.  At  Sparano,  a  spot  between  Noto  and  Palazzolo,  a 
Druidical  relic,  a  kind  of  Celtic  dolmen,  or,  as  others  call  it,  a  &d).os, 
has  been  discovered,  which  appears  to  favour  the  view  that  the  Sicanians 
were  of  Celtic  origin  (?).  The  grottoes  of  the  Val  d'Ispica  are  the  most 
numerous  and  present  the  greatest  variety.  Some  of  them  were  manifestly 
used  as  habitations.  They  either  consist  of  different  stories,  connected 
in  the  interior  by  circular  apertures,  or  of  single  chambers,  the  entrances 
to  which  in  the  rock  are  more  than  the  height  of  a  man  above  the 
ground.  Rings  hewn  in  stone  which  are  seen  here  probably  served  some 
purpose  of  domestic  economy.  Other  archaeologists  believe  these  grottoes 
merely  to  have  formed  the  Necropolis  of  some  ancient  city ,  and  not  to 
have  been  used  as  dwellings  until  late  in  the  Christian  period. 

At  the  N.  E.  outlet  of  the  valley  rises  the  so-called  Castello 
d'Ispica,  a  rock  completely  honeycombed  by  grottoes.  Other 
famous  grottoes  are  the  Spelonca  Orossa,  Grotta  del  Corvo,  and 
del  Vento.  About  10  min.  from  the  entrance,  halfway  up  the 
hill  on  the  left,  is  a  house  where  wine  may  be  procured.  Near 
it  a  rocky  path  ascends  to  the  bridle-path  to  — 

Palazzolo  Acreide  (*Locanda  d'ltalia  ,  with  trattoria ,  small ; 
Locanda  Centrale),  one  of  the  most  interesting  towns  of  Sicily, 
with  10,000  inhab.  The  custodian  Don  Paolo  Monelli  (fee 
'2-3  fr.)  keeps  the  keys    of  the  theatre,   etc.,  and  shows  the   chief 

IS* 


276      Route  33.  PALAZZOLO.  From  Giryenti 

objects  of  interest  in  4-5  hrs.  Those  who  begin  the  walk  at  day- 
break may  proceed  the  same  day  by  diligence  to  Syracuse. 

Acrae  (Arabic  el-Akrdt ,  afterwards  Placeolum  ,  the  Balensul  of 
Edrisi,  now  Palazzold)  was  founded  by  the  Syracusans  in  664  on  the 
site,  as  it  would  appear,  of  a  Phoenician  settlement,  and  formed 
part  of  their  territory  until  Syracuse  itself  was  conquered  by  Mar- 
cellus.  The  town  apparently  escaped  destruction  down  to  the 
time  of  the  Saracenic  wars.  The  Acropolis  and  older  part  of  the 
town  lay  on  the  hill  which  rises  above  the  modern  town ,  and 
were  accessible  from  the  E.  only.  This  eminence  is  doubtless  of 
volcanic  origin,  as  volcanic  prodticts  are  found  amongst  the  lime- 
stone rocks.  (The  whole  district  abounds  in  such  formations, 
which  are  most  apparent  on  the  route  from  Vizzini  to  Buccheri 
and  Buscemi.)  The  top  affords  a  fine  view  in  every  direction. 
The  approach  from  the  E.  was  protected  by  latomiae.  Tombs 
of  all  periods  have  been  discovered  here ,  some  being  of  Greek 
origin  with  reliefs,  others  apparently  of  the  Christian  period.  We 
may  also  visit  the  so-called  Tempio  Ferale,  some  water-conduits, 
and  a  small  Theatre,  looking  to  the  N. ,  whence  the  small  town 
of  Buscemi  is  visible  on  a  hill  above  a  deep  ravine.  The  theatre  is 
of  late  Greek  origin,  and  contains  twelve  tiers  of  seats  for  600  spec- 
tators. Adjacent  to  it  is  the  Odeon,  or,  according  to  others,  a  bath- 
establishment.  To  the  S.  of  the  Acropolis  rises  the  Monte  Pineta, 
with  numerous  mortuary  chambers,  the  so-called  Didieri.  —  In 
the  Contrada  dei  Santicelli,  a  valley  H/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Pineta, 
are  the  remarkable  bas-reliefs,  unfortunately  mutilated,  of  the 
' Santoni' .  They  appear  to  have  pertained  to  a  burial-place; 
on  most  of  them  the  figure  of  a  goddess  (supposed  to  be  Cybele) 
may  be  distinguished.  Not  far  from  this  spot  is  an  extensive 
burial-ground,  the  Acrocoro  detto  delta  Torre,  where  some  hundreds 
of  sarcophagi  have  been  opened.  Many  of  them  contained  well 
preserved  skulls.  From  E.  to  W.  the  skeletons  of  women  were 
found  to  have  been  interred,  from  N.  to  S.  those  of  men.  — 
The  collection  of  ancient  vases,  etc.  of  Baron  Judica  (Palazzo  Ju- 
dica) ,  who  superintended  the  excavations  on  the  Acropolis, 
is  in  a  deplorably  neglected  condition,  and  is  interesting  to  the 
scientific  only. 

From  Palazzolo  to  Syracuse,  28  M.  Diligence  daily  about 
10  a.m.,  via  Floridia.  (Another  good  road  leads  by  Canicat- 
tini,  a  place  of  bad  reputation. J  The  road  traverses  monoto- 
nous fields,  sterile  land,  and  clumps  of  wood  (di  Madredonna  and 
Giambra).  The  wood  of  Bauli,  to  the  E.,  is  said  to  be  still 
infested  by  wolves.  A  little  beyond  Monte  Grosse,  the  first  post- 
station,  Syracuse  becomes  visible  in  the  distance.  The  road  leads 
through  the  small  town  of  S.  Paolo,  then  through  Floridia. 
Below  Floridia,  on  the  right  side  of  the  road  is  a  ravine  which 
the  Athenians  on  their  return  from  Syracuse  under  Nicias  found 


to  Syracuse.  NOTO.  33.  Route.      Ill 

obstructed,  thus  compelling  them  to  turn  towards  the  S.  The 
towns  to  the  left  are  Cassaro  and  Ferla.  Farther  towards  the  N. 
is  Sortino ,  on  an  eminence.  About  4  M.  below  Floridia,  on  a 
height  to  the  left,  lies  Belvedere,  adjoining  which  are  the  ruins 
of  Euryalus,  the  most  W.  fort  of  the  Epipol*  of  Syracuse  (p.  324.) 

From  Modica  to  Syracuse  by  Noto. 

The  diligence-road  to  Noto  traverses  an  uninteresting  district.  11  M, 
Spaccaforno,  15  M.  Rosolini. 

24  M.  Noto  (  Vittdria,  with  a  good  trattoria ;  Aquila  d'Oro,  opposite  the  Do- 
minican monastery,  to  the  right),  a  pleasant  and  wealthy  town  with  16,500 
inhab.,  contains  handsome  palaces  of  the  provincial  aristocracy.  The  fertile 
district  belonging  to  the  town  comprises  an  area  of  60  sq.  M.  The  present 
town  was  founded  in  1703  near  the  site  of  Setum,  which  had  been  founded 
by  the  Sikelian  prince  Ducetius  (.about  B.C.  450)  on  the  site  of  a  still  more 
ancient  town,  and  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1693.  Traces  of 
the  oldest  town  existed  down  to  the  16th  century  between  Noto  and 
Palazzolo ,  near  the  spot  where  Count  Ruggiero  founded  the  Benedictine 
abbey  of  <S.  Lucia  (Bauli).  Of  the  second  Noto  the  ruins  are  still  visible, 
5  51.  from  the  present  town.  —  About  4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Noto,  between  the 
rivers  Falconara  (Asinarus)  and  Telluro  (Uelorus),  stands  La  Pizzuta,  a  frag- 
ment of  a  Greek  column,  about  30  ft.  in  height.  It  is  said  to  be  a  remnant 
of  the  monument  erected  by  the  Syracusans  in  the  bed  of  the  Asinarus 
after  the  sanguinary  defeat  of  the  Athenians  under  Nicias  (July,  413). 

An  excursion  may  be  made  from  Noto  by  a  carriage-road  to  (15  M.) 
Pacchino,  and  the  rugged  promontory  of  Passero  (  Pachynum),  with  its  islands, 
harbours  (Porto  d'Ulisse,  Porto  Palo),  tunny-fisheries  (tonnare),  and  the  re- 
mains of  the  ancient  city  of  Uelorus  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  now  called 
Stampaci.   In  ancient  times  the  Via  Helora  led  from  Helorus  to  Syracuse. 

From  Noto  the  road  leads  to  (27'|2  M.  from  Modica)  Avola  (12,000  in- 
hab.), where  almond-trees  and  the  sugar-cane  flourish,  skirts  the  plain  of 
the  coast,  and,  crossing  the  river  Cassibile  (ancient  Cacyparis),  on  the  banks 
of  which  Demosthenes  and  6000  Athenians  sustained  a  defeat  in  413,  leads 
to  Syracuse.  To  the  right  is  seen  the  Great  Harbour,  to  the  left  the  remains  of 
the  columns  of  tueOlympieum.  The  road  skirts  the  right  side  of  the  harbour, 
passing  a  large  heap  of  reeds  used  by  the  potters ,  who  have  practised 
their  craft  here  since  the  time  of  Dionysius  I.  When  Dionysius  forced  his  way 
into  the  city  by  night  after  the  battle  of  Gela  and  usurped  the  government, 
he  destroyed  the  gate  of  Achradina  here  by  piling  up  and  setting  fire  to 
the  bundles    of  reeds  which  he  found  in  the  vicinity. 

35  M.  Lungarina.  —  44^2  M.   Syracuse,  see  p.  315. 

34.    From  Palermo  to  Messina  by  the  Coast. 

172  JI.  Railway  to  Cerda,  28  M.,  in  13|4  hr. ;  thence  by  Diligence  (Vet- 
tura  Corriera)  daily  in  31'|2  hrs.  to  Messina  (in  the  reverse  direction  in  40'|2 
hrs.).  Hours  of  departure  :  from  Palermo  6.30  a.  m.,  from  Cerda  9,  from 
Cefalii  11.45  (halt  of  ^hr.),  from  Castel  di  Twa  3.40  p.m.,  from  S.  Stefano 
5.  40,  from  S.  Agata  9.  30 ,  from  Capo  Orlando  (Naso)  12.  30  a.  m. ,  from 
Oiojosa  3,  from  Patti  5,  from  Barcellona  8.  30 ,  from  Archi  (Milazzo)  9.  35, 
from  Gesso  12.20  p.m.,  arrival  at  Messina  2p.m.  —  In  the  opposite 
direction:  from  Messina  5  p.m.,  Oesso  8.15,  Archi  (Milazzo)  10.50  p.m., 
Barcellona  12.5  a.m.,  Patti  3.30,  Oiojosa  5.15,  Capo  Orlando  7.45,  S.  Agata 
10,  S.  Stefano  3.15  p.m.,  Castel  di  Tusa  5,  Cefalii  3  a.m.,  arrival  at  Cerda 
6.30  a.  m.  The  train  starts  at  7.  30,  and  arrives  at  Palermo  at  9.  15  a.  m. 
—  This  route  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Sicily,  but  travelling  so  far 
by  diligence  is  fatiguing. 

Steamers  between  Palermo  and  Messina  three  times  a  week :  Socield 
Florio  once  direct  in  13  hrs.,  starting  from  Palermo  on  Saturdays  at 
a  p.m.,  and  arriving  at  Messina  on  Sundays    at    6  a.m.  (from  Messina  on 


278      Route  lid.  HIMERA.  From  Palermo 

Thurs.  4  p.m.,  arrival  at  Palermo  on  Frid.  5a.m.);  and  once  indirectly, 
leaving  Palermo  on  Tuesdays  at  6  a.m.,  reaching  Cefalii  at  10,  S.  Stefano 
at  12.45  p.m.,  Capo  d'Orlando  at  4.30,  Patti  at  7,  Milazzo  at  10.30;  leav- 
ing Milazzo  again  on  Wednesdays  at  4  a.m.,  reaching  Lipari  at  6.30, 
and  Messina  at  1.30  p.m.  (From  Messina  on  Sun.  at  8  a.m.,  reaching 
Lipari  at  2  p.m.,  Milazzo  at  5.  30;  leaving  Milazzo  again  on  Mon.  at 
2.30  a.m.,  reaching  Patti  at  5  a.m.,  Capo  d'Orlando  at  7.  30,  S.  Stefano 
at  11.  15,  Cefalii  at  2  p.m.,  and  Palermo  at  7  p.m.  —  Societa  Trinacria, 
direct:  leaving  Palermo  on  Fridays  at  5  p.m.,  reaching  Messina  on  Sa- 
turdays at  7  a.m.  (leaving  Messina  on  Tues.  at  5  p.m.,  reaching  Palermo 
"on  Wed.  at  7  a.m.).     Cabin  fare  from  Palermo  to  Messina  33'/2  fr. 

The  steamboat  voyage  may  be  suitably  combined  with  the  diligence 
journey  as  follows.  On  Monday  take  the  first  train  to  Cerda,  drive  thence 
by  diligence  to  Cefalii  (2'k  hrs.),  see  the  cathedral,  and  ascend  the  castle. 
On  Tuesday  take  the  steamer  to  Milazzo,  and  proceed  thence  next  day  by 
diligence  (or  by  the  early  steamer). 

From  Palermo  to   Cerda,   see  pp.  259,  260. 

The  first  part  of  the  route  is  bleak  and  treeless ,  and,  as  its 
appearance  indicates,  is  rendered  unhealthy  by  malaria.  The  road 
crosses  the  valley  of  the  Flume  Torto,  and  soon  reaches  Bonfor- 
nello,   a  solitary  farm-house. 

The  houses  on  the  left  stand  on  the  ruins  of  a  Doric  temple 
which  has  not  yet  been  excavated.  On  the  height  to  the  right 
lay  Himera,  the  most  western  town  of  the  Greeks  in  Sicily, 
the  birthplace  (about  630)  of  >Stesichorus,  orginally  called  Tisias, 
the  perfecter  of  the  Greek  chorus.  If  we  ascend  the  abrupt 
hills,  overgrown  with  sumach,  we  reach  a  table-land  which  grad- 
ually slopes  downward  from  the  small  town  of  La  Signora. 
To  the  E.  flows  the  Himera  Septentrionalis,  or  Fiume  Orande; 
on  the  W.  a  small  valley,  in  which  tombs  have  been  discovered, 
separates  the  town  from  the  plateau.  To  the  N.  the  hills  de- 
scend precipitously  to  the  plain  of  the  coast ;  on  this  side  the 
town  was  defended  by  massive  walls. 

Himera  was  founded  by  Zanclseans  in  648.  One  of  the  greatest  battles 
ever  fought  by  the  Greeks  took  place  on  behalf  of  the  citizens  in  480,  when 
Gelon  and  Theron  surprised  Hamilcor,  the  Carthaginian,  while  he  was 
besieging  the  town,  and  annihilated  his  army.  He  himself  sought  a 
voluntary  death  in  the  sacrificial  fire,  in  order  to  appease  the  wrath  of 
the  gods.  The  battle  was  probably  earlier  than  that  of  Salamis  ,  though 
Greek  historians  have  stated  that  both  were  fought  on  the  same  day.  In 
409  Hannibal  Gisgon,  grandson  of  Hamilcar,  captured  the  town  and  razed 
it  to  the  ground ,  after  most  of  the  inhabitants  had  abandoned  it  by 
night,  and  since  that  period  no  attempt  has   been  made  to  re-erect  it. 

The  Fiume  Orande,  with  the  Fiume  Salso,  bisects  the  is- 
land, and  has  frequently  formed  a  political  frontier  (under  the 
Romans  and  under  Frederick  II.).  Beyond  the  Fiume  Grande 
the  straight  and  monotonous  road  traverses  a  malarious  district,  in 
which  it  is  dangerous  to  indulge  in  sleep.  To  the  right  are  obtain- 
ed beautiful  glimpses  of  the  fissured  valleys  of  the  Madonian 
Mts.  near  Roccella.  Farther  up  in  the  valley  traversed  by  the  Fiu- 
me lies  Collesano ,  a  town  which  possesses  remnants  of  walls 
and  buildings  of  an  unknown  period.  Above  the  mountains  enclos- 
ing the  valley  tower  the  Monte  S.   Salvadore  (6266  ft.)  and  the 


to  Messina.  CEFALU.  34.  Route.      279 

Pizzo  Antenna  (6480  ft.),  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Nebrode. 
Below  Lascari  and  (iratteri,  and  lastly  helow  (iibilmnnna,  i.  e. 
the  'manna-mountain',  the  road  leads  through  a  beautiful,  cul- 
tivated district  to  Cefalii.  In  the  vicinity  considerable  quan- 
tities of  manna  are  obtained  from  the  exudations  of  the  manna- 
tree  (Fraxinus  ornus). 

22'/2  M.  (from  Cerda)  Cefalii  (Albergo  d' Italia,  with  *trattoria, 
in  the  Piazza  del  Puomo),  Cephalcedium,  a  thriving  town  with  12,000 
inhab.,  who  are  engaged  in  trading,  sea-faring,  and  the  sardine 
fishery,  lies  at  the  base  of  a  barren  promontory  which  rises  ab- 
ruptly from  the  sea  on  the  S.  side,  and  on  which  the  ancient 
town  stood.  The  limestone  rock ,  composed  almost  entirely  of 
fossils,  which  towers  above  the  town,  bears  the  fragments  of  a 
medieval  Castle  and  the  remains  of  a  polygonal  structure.  This 
appears  to  have  been  a  kind  of  treasury ,  to  which  during  the 
Roman  period  a  vault  was  added,  and  which  was  afterwards  con- 
verted into  a  Christian  place  of  worship.  The  summit,  on  which 
there  are  remains  of  a  Norman  castle,  commands  a  magnificent  sur- 
vey  of  the  N.   coast   and  the  lofty  mountains  as  far  as  Palermo. 

Cephalcedium  is  mentioned  in  history  for  tlie  first  time  in  397  in 
connection  with  the  wars  between  Dionysius  I.  and  Carthage,  and  oc- 
casionally during  the  Roman  period.  In  837  the  Arabs  besieged  it  un- 
successfully, but  captured  it  in  858.  In  1129  when  King  Roger  was  returning 
from  Naples,  and  his  vessel  was  in  danger  of  shipwreck ,  he  is  said  to 
have  vowed  to  erect  a  church  to  Christ  and  the  Apostles  on  the  spot 
where  he  should  be  permitted  to  land.  The  vessel  was  driven  ashore  at 
Cefalii,  and  he  accordingly  began  to  build  a  handsome  cathedral  here. 
The  charter  of  foundation,  dating  from  1145,  and  still  preserved  in  the 
episcopal  archives,  contains,  however,  no  allusion  to  the  above  story. 

The  *Cathedral,  a  noble  monument  of  Norman  architecture, 
lies  to  the  W.  at  the  foot  of  the  promontory,  and  around  it  the 
modern  town  has  sprung  up.  Two  imposing  towers  of  four  stories, 
connected  by  a  colonnade ,  flank  the  facade  ,  recalling  the  huge 
towers  of  St.  Etienne  at  Caen  erected  by  William  the  Conqueror. 
The  walls  of  the  colonnade  were  covered  with  mosaics,  now  de- 
stroyed ,  in  memory  of  King  Roger  and  of  his  successors  who 
continued  the  building.  The  W.  entrance  is  coeval  with  the  foun- 
dation. The  portal  is  of  unique  construction.  The  apses  are  de- 
corated  externally,    but    the  outside  is  otherwise  plain. 

The  church,  built  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  possesses  a  nave,  two 
aisles,  and  three  apses.  Nave  double  the  width  of  the  aisles.  Length  243, 
width  92  ft.  The  pointed  vaulting  of  the  nave  and  aisles  is  supported  by 
fifteen  columns  of  granite  and  one  of  cipollino.  The  "'Mosaics  in  the 
tribune  are  the  most  ancient  and  perfect  in  Sicily,  and  most  resemble  those 
preserved  in  the  monasteries  on  Mt.  Athos.  The  beautifully  executed  figure 
of  the  Saviour  was  completed  in  1148.  A  number  of  other  figures,  Mary 
with  four  archangels,  prophets  and  saints,  appear  from  their  selection  to 
have  been  the  work  of  Greek  artists.  In  the  transepts  once  stood  two  of 
the  sarcophagi  of  porphyry  which  are  now  in  the  cathedral  of  Palermo. 
Frederick  II.  caused  them  to  be  transferred  to  Palermo  in  1209,  during  the 
absence  of  the  bishop  Giovanni  on  a  mission  to  the  sultan  of  Damascus. 
On  the  return  of  the  latter  he  indignantly  excommunicated  the  emperor  for 
this  act  of  spoliation,    but  was    subsequently  appeased  by  a  grant  of  land. 


280      Route  34.  MISTRETTA.  From  Palermo 

The  fine  *  Cloisters  adjoining  the  church  resemble  those  at 
Monreale,   but  are  not  so  well  preserved. 

The  heirs  of  the  late  Baron  Mandralisca  possess  a  small  col- 
lection of  antiquities  here,  including  almost  all  the  objects  of  in- 
terest found  in  the  island  of  Lipari  (p.   292). 

32  M.  Finale,  on  the  Fiume  di  Pollina,  was  the  ancient  Mo- 
nalus.  The  loftily  situated  little  town  of  Pollina,  3  M.  inland,  is 
supposed  to  be  the  ancient  Apollonia ,  which  Timoleon  delivered 
from  its  tyrant  Leptines. 

40  M.  Castel  di  Tusa.  Near  it ,  on  an  eminence  to  the 
E.,  lay  Alaesa,  founded  in  403  by  the  tyrant  Archonides  of 
Herbita.  The  town  was  an  important  place  under  the  Romans; 
its  ruins  are  2  M.  in  circumference.  It  is  skirted  by  the  Alesus, 
now  Fiume  di  Pettineo.  The  road  crosses  this  river,  and  then 
the  Fiume  Regitano,  in  the  valley  of  which,  9  M.  inland,  lies 
the  town  of  Mistretta  (11,200  inhab.),  the  ancient  Amestratus, 
a  place  which  has  rapidly  improved  since   18(30. 

55'/.2  M.  8.  Stefano  di  Camastra  (Nuova  Locanda,  and  another, 
both  tolerable),  with  4700  inhab.,  stands  on  an  eminence  by  the 
sea.  From  the  W.  side  of  the  town  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
environs ,  the  sea ,  and  the  valley  below.  Cheese  made  from 
sheep's  milk  ( caccio  cavallo)  and  wool  are  the  staple  products. 

Between  S.  Stefano  and  S.  Agata  lies  the  Boseo  di  Caronia, 
the  largest  forest  in  Sicily.  The  road  crosses  numerous  brooks, 
and  is  bordered  by  the  myrtle,  the  mastix ,  and  the  cistus-rose. 
It  passes  the  harbour  of  Caronia  (6  M.  from  S.  Stefano),  the 
Calacte  ('beautiful  shore'),  founded  by  Ducetius  in  440,  and  then 
crosses  the  Fiumara  of  S.  Fratello,  or  Furiano,  which  flows  through 
the  midst  of  a  perfect  grove  of  oleanders. 

The  town  of  S.  Fratello  (7400  inhab.) ,  4i|2  M.  inland,  is  one  of  the 
Lombard  colonies  which  accompanied  Adelaide  of  jUIonferrat,  wife  of 
Roger  I.,  to  Sicily.  Others  established  themselves  at  Piazza,  Nicosia,  Aidone, 
Randazzo,  Sperlinga,  Capizzi,  Jlaniace,  etc.  The  Lombard  dialect  is  still 
spoken  at  S.  Fratello,  Piazza,  Nicosia,  and  Aidone.  Near  S.  Fratello  is 
the  grotto  of  San  Teodoro,  containing  many  fossil  bones  of  different  species 
of  mammalia. 

Near  Acqua  Dolce  (11  M.  from  Caronia)  lay  the  town  of 
Aluntium ,  of  which  nothing  is  known  beyond  the  allusion  to 
it  by  Cicero  in  his  oration  against  Verres. 

75  M.  S.  Agata  is  a  small  town  with  a  bad  inn.  The 
road  crosses  the  beds  of  numerous  torrents ,  in  the  first  of 
which,  the  Rosamarina,  bordered  by  oleanders,  are  the  fragments 
of  a  Roman  bridge.  To  the  right  lies  S.  Marco,  probably  the  ancient 
Agathyrnum.  The  ruins  of  a  mediaeval  palace  in  the  Fiumara 
Zapulla  are  next  passed.  Between  the  mouth  of  this  torrent  and 
Capo  Orlando  was  fought,  4th  July,  1299,  the  great  naval  battle 
in  which  Frederick  II.  was  defeated  by  the  united  fleets  of'Cata- 
lonia  and  Anjou  under  Roger  f,oria.  On  the  height  to  the  right, 
facing   us,    we  observe  the    small    town   of  Naso,    where  the  silk- 


to  Messina.  TYNDARIS.  34.  Route.      281 

culture  is  extensively  earned  on.  The  whole  district  resembles 
a  luxuriant  orchard.     As  soon,   however,   as  we  pass  — 

84'/2  M.  Capo  Orlando,  the  extreme  rocky  point  (305  ft. J 
of  which  lies  to  the  left  of  the  road ,  the  appearance  of  the 
country  is  changed,  and  the  mountains  now  rise  abruptly  from 
the  sea.  Capo  Orlando  is  94  M.  from  Palermo,  which  is  visible 
from  the  end  of  the  promontory  in  clear  weather.  The  broad 
Fiumara  of  Naso  and  the  picturesque  Brolo,  with  the  small  town 
of  that  name,  are  next  reached;  then  Piraino.  The  traveller 
may  proceed  direct  hence  by  Sorrentini  to  Patti,  and  thus  consid- 
erably shorten  his  journey.  A  mountain  of  considerable  height 
must,  however,  be  traversed  (2608  ft.),  while  the  coast-route  by 
Capo  Calava  is  remarkably  picturesque. 

The  road  ascends  from  a  valley  to  (94  M.)  Oiojosa  (Sicil. 
Giujusa ;  4600  inhab.) ,  winds  at  a  great  height  above  the  sea 
round  the  abrupt  granite  promontory  of  Calava,  which  it  pen- 
etrates by  a  short  tunnel,  and  descends  to  the  Marina  of  Patti, 
whence  it  again  ascends  through  an  avenue  of  pepper-trees. 

( 100  M.)  Patti  {Locanda  of  Antonino  Arrigo,  a  small  inn  to 
the  left  of  the  road ;  Locanda  Nuova,  inferior),  an  episcopal 
residence  with  8200  inhab.,  and  large  monasteries,  notwith- 
standing its  fine  situation  on  the  hill,  is  unhealthy.  In  the 
modernised  Cathedral  is  interred  Adelasia,  mother  of  King  Roger, 
and  widow  of  Count  Roger  and  of  King  Baldwin  of  Jerusalem. 
The  wealthiest  family  in  this  district  is  that  of  the  barons  of 
Seiacca,  who  possess  a  beautiful  chateau  on  the  Scala,  3  M.  to  the 
N.  of  Patti.  To  the  same  family  belong  the  environs  of  Tyn- 
daris.  From  Patti  to  Messina  direct  44  M.,  to  Milazzo  25  M. 

The  road  to  Milazzo  ascends.  The  promontory  to  the  left  with 
the'  Pizzo  di  Mongib  (Monte  Giove)  was  once  the  site  of  the 
town  of  Tyndaris  (road-side  inn). 

Tyndaris,  one  of  the  latest  Greek  colonies  in  Sicily,  was  founded  in 
396  by  Dionysius  I.  with  Locrians  and  Peloponnesian  Messenians.  It  soon 
rose  to  prosperity,  at  an  early  period  became  allied  to  Timoleon,  and 
remained  faithful  to  the  Romans  during  the  Punic  wars.  It  was  therefore 
favoured  by  the  Romans,  and  attained  to  great  power  and  wealth.  Its 
inhabitants  were  the  first  who  opposed  Verres,  and  engaged  Cicero  as  their 
advocate.  During  the  Christian  period  it  became  the  seat  of  a  bishop. 
The  exact  date  of  its  destruction  is  unknown.  Before  the  time  of  Pliny 
a  small  part  of  the  town  was  precipitated   into   the  sea  by  a  landslip. 

The  promontory,  rising  918  ft.  above  the  sea,  consists  of 
granite,  gneiss,  and  above  these  a  stratum  of  limestone.  The 
summit  is  occupied  by  the  church  of  the  Madonna  Nera.  Re- 
mains of  a  theatre  and  two  mosaic  pavements  have  been  pre- 
served. The  internal  diameter  of  the  theatre  is  212  ft.,  orchestra 
77  ft. ;  the  cavea  is  divided  into  nine  cunei ,  and  contains  twenty- 
seven  tiers  of  seats.  Several  statues  of  Roman  workmanship  found 
here  are  now  in  the  museum  of  Palermo.  (Key  kept  by  the 
custodian  of  the  antiquities. ) 


282      llvute  3J.  MILAZZO.  From  Palermo 

Below  the  extremity  of  Capo  Tindaro  is  the  Stalactite  Orotto 
i if  Fata  Donnavilla,  popularly  supposed  to  be  haunted  by  a  fairy 
who  kidnaps  brides  on  their  wedding-night,  and  to  be  identical 
with  the  Fata  (fairy)  Morgana.  The  curious  may  reach  the  entrance 
by  being  lowered  over  the  cliff  with   ropes. 

The  fatigue  of  ascending  the  promontory  is  amply  repaid  by 
the  magnificent  view  it  affords  of  the  sea ,  Milazzo,  the  Lipari 
Islands,  the  Neptunian  Mts.,  the  conical  Pizzo  di  Tripi,  on  which 
Abacaenum  (now  Noara)  lies,   and  vEtna. 

The  road  then  descends  to  the  bay  of  Olivieri,  between  Tyn- 
daris  and  Milazzo.  The  fertile  plain  is  traversed  by  a  number 
of  torrents  which  frequently  prove  very  destructive.  The  largest 
of  these  are  the  Olivieri,  Arangia,  Crancotta,  Salica,  and  dell' 
Aranci,  on  which  last  the  sulphur-baths  of  Termini  di  Castro  are 
situated.  We  next  reach  the  wealthy  towns  of  Barcellona  (with 
sulphur-baths ,  much  frequented  from  May  to  September ,  when 
omnibuses  run  daily  to  and  from  Messina ,  with  the  aid  of  which 
Milazzo  and  Tyndaris  may  be  visited)  and  Pozzo  di  Qotto ,  near 
which,  on  the  Longanus,  Hiero  of  Syracuse  defeated  the  Mamertines 
in  270.  The  road  crosses  the  flumare  Cantone,  Landro,  and  S. 
Lucia.  It  then  divides,  the  branch  to  the  right  leading  direct  to 
Messina,  and  that  to  the  left  through  the  vast  vineyards  of  the 
Neapolitan  ex-minister  Cassisi  (formerly  the  property  of  the  order 
of  St.  John)  to  Milazzo.  The  Emp.  Frederick  II.  once  possessed 
an  extensive  park  for  game  here  ;  and  it  was  here,  according  to 
Homer,    that  the  herds  of  Helius  were  pastured. 

125  M.  Milazzo  (Locanda.  Villa  Nuova,  in  the  main  street, 
tolerable),  the  ancient  Mylae,  a  town  with  12,000  inhab.,  possesses 
a  good  harbour  and  a  Castle  erected  by  Charles  V.  and  restored  in 
the  17th  cent.  ,  the  pinnacles  of  which  command  a  charming  view 
(now  a  prison  ;  visitors  apply  to  a  sergeant  to  the  right  of  the 
entrance). 

Mylae  was  founded  at  a  very  early  period  by  colonists  from  Messana- 
Zancle,  who  in  648  quitted  the  settlement  and  proceeded  to  Himera.  The 
territory  remained  subject  to  the  Messenians,  until  Laches  in  427  made  it 
over  to  the  inhabitants  of  Rhcgium.  In  394,  however,  the  Messenians  again 
possessed  themselves  of  the  town,  and  re-erected  it  after  it  had  been 
destroyed  by  Agathocles.  Here  in  260  Duilius  gained  for  the  Romans  their 
first  naval  victory,  having  by  means  of  his  boarding-bridges  assimilated 
the  naval  battle  to  a  conflict  on  land.  No  ancient  remains  have  been  dis- 
covered here,  as  in  the  middle  ages  Milazzo  was  frequently  altered  and 
repeatedly  besieged.  The  castle  sustained  sieges  from  the  Due  de  Vivonnc 
in  1675  and  during  the  Spanish  war  of  succession.  On  20th  July,  1860, 
Praribaldi  drove  the  Neapolitan  general  Bosco  back  into  the  castle ,  and 
compelled  him  to  capitulate  on  condition  of  being  allowed  a  free  retreat. 

A  drive  (2  fr.)  as  far  as  the  lighthouse  on  the  well  cultivated 
promontory,  commanding  beautiful  glimpses,  through  the  foliage, 
of  the  sea  on  both  sides ,  is  recommended.  Extensive  tunny- 
fisheries.  —  Boat  with  two  rowers  from  the  tonnara  to  Tyndaris  in 
2-2'/2'_hrs.,  10-12  fr.  ;  to  Capo  Orlando  in  4  hrs.,  20  fr.  ;  see  p.  281. 


to  Messina.  GANGI.  34.  Route.      283 

Fkom  Mii.azzo  to  Messina,  '-20'/2  M.  The  road  traverses  the 
plain  of  the  coast  to  Spadafora.  In  the  bay  to  the  left  the  fleet 
of  Sextus  Pompeius  was  annihilated  by  Agrippa.  On  the  heights 
to  the  right  stands  <S.  Pietro  (Sampierf) ,  Sicil.  Monforte,  and 
among  the  higher  mountains,  on  a  summit  surrounded  by  pre- 
cipitous cliffs,  the  small  town  of  Rametta,  in  which  the  Christians 
maintained  themselves  down  to  965.  From  Spadafora  the  road 
ascends  to  Divieto ,  Bavuso  (Sicil.  Bauso),  and  Gesso,  where  the 
Saracens  remained  until  a  late  period.  The  luxuriant  fertility  of 
the  fields  soon  diminishes,  and  we  reach  the  zone  of  the  heath 
and  grass  which  clothe  the  precipitous  slopes  of  the  Neptunian 
Mts.  Beautiful  retrospect.  The  summit,  the  so-called  Telegrafo, 
or  Colle  di  San  Rizzo  (1722  ft.),  commands  a  view  of  the  strait 
of  Messina :  to  the  left  is  the  Faro,  opposite  to  it  Scilla  in  Calabria, 
then  on  a  projecting  angle  S.  Giovanni,  numerous  villages,  and 
farther  to  the  right  Reggio.  The  forests  of  the  lofty  Aspromonte 
occupy  the  extremity  of  the  Calabrian  peninsula.  In  front  of  the 
spectator  extends  the  sickle  (Zancle)  shaped  harbour  of  Messina ; 
the  road  descends  to  a  profound  and  sinuous  ravine.  (The  Abba- 
diazza,  see  p.  290. J 

145  M.  (from  Cerda)  Messina,  see  p.  284. 

Fkom  Termini  (p.  259)  to  Leonfoete. 
This  new  road,  about  62>|2  M.  in  length,  was  once  the  route  usually 
pursued  by  the  Arabs  on  their  predatory  incursions  into  the  interior  from 
Palermo.  The  road  ascends  by  the  Fiiime  Tor  to  to  Cerda  (p.  260),  crosses 
the  mountain  ,  and  descends  to  the  valley  of  the  Fivme  Grande  and  the 
small  towns  of  Sclafani  (marble  sarcophagus  in  the  church)  and  Calia- 
vutitro  (18  M.  from  Termini).  The  latter  is  of  Saracenic  origin  (  Kalat-Ahi- 
Thaur),  and  was  taken  by  Roger  I.,  who  granted  it  to  his  daughter  Matilda. 
It  now  contains  5300  inhab.  The  road  ascends  thence  to  Polizzi,  situated 
on  a  lofty  rock  (3008  ft.),  a  town  fortified  by  Roger  I.  ,  and  of  consid- 
erable importance  in  the  middle  ages.  On  the  mountain  which  is  crossed 
hence  to  (6  31.)  Petralia,  rise  the  Himera  Meridionalis  (Fivwe  Salso)  and  the 
Himera  Septentrionatis  (Fivme  Grande) ,  which  the  ancients  believed  to 
possess  one  common  source.  Petralia  Sottana  and  Soprana  are  two 
country-towns  in  a  fertile  district  with  imposing  mountainous  environs, 
occupying  the  site  of  the  ancient  Petraea.  To  the  S.  ,  on  the  top  of  the 
hil],  lie  Bvonpietro  and  Alimena.  The  latter  was  conquered  by  the  Sara- 
cens in  843,  and  is  probably  the  ancient  Hemichara.  From  Petralia  the 
road  traverses  a  lofty  mountain  to  (6  DI.)  Gangi,  a  town  with  13,000  inhab., 
the  ancient  Sikelian  Enguium ,  originally  a  Cretan ,  i.  e.  a  Phoenician 
colony  ,  where  in  Cicero's  time  a  celebrated  temple  of  Magna  Mater  (or 
Astarte),  despoiled  by  Verres ,  was  situated.  One  of  the  best  Sicilian 
painters  of  the  17th  cent.,  known  as  Lo  Zoppo  (the  lame),  was  also  surnamed 
'di  Gangi\  The  road  leads  hence  through  a  fertile  tract  to  (9  M.)  Sper- 
linga  (2592  ft.),  which  alone  showed  partiality  to  the  French  in  1282, 
whence  the  saying,  'Quod  Siculis  placuit  sola  Sperlinga  negavit" ;  thence 
to  ( 3  M.)  Nicosia ,  with  14,800  inhabitants  who  still  speak  a  Lombard 
dialect,  a  town  of  thoroughly  mediaeval  appearance,  regarded  as  more  be- 
hind the  age  than  any  other  in  Sicily.  The  road  then  passes  Roera  di 
Sarno ,  where  the  brave  Norman  Serlo  perished  through  treachevv,  and 
leads  to  Leon/orte  (p.  208). 


284 


35.     Messina. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  The  vessels  anchor  in  the  middle  of  the  harbour. 
The  small  house  on  the  water's  edge  is  the  Sanita  (PI.  F,  3),  where  pas- 
sengers are  landed  in  small  boats  (tariff  >|2  fir.  ,  or  with  luggage  1  fr.). 
Luggage  is  slightly  scrutinised  at  the  dogana  by  officers  of  the  munici- 
pal customs.  Porter  lor  ordinary  luggage  from  the  Sanita  to  the  Dogana, 
and  thence  to  a  hotel,  1  fr. 

Hotels.  "La  Vittoeia  (PI.  a),  Strada  Garibaldi  66,  R.  from  2'J2,  L. 
and  A.  l'|'_»,  B.  11J2,  D.  4-5  fr.,  pension  12  fr.  per  day.  Ai.bergo  di  Venezia, 
Strada  della  Xeve  7  and  11,  second  class,  R.  2-21|2,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.  (ad- 
visable to  ask  charges);  Albergo  Trinacria  (PI.  c)  on  the  quay,  with 
view,  entered  from  the  Str.  Pozzo  Leoni,  a  side-street  leading  from  the 
Marina  to  the  piazza  of  the  theatre ;  a  good  'hotel  garni'  on  the  2nd 
floor,  R.  l'|2-2  fr. ;  Hotel  de  Geneve  ,  Piazza  del  Muncipio ;  Albergo 
Centrale,  Via  del  Rovere,  etc. 

Restaurants.  ~Caft  Nuovo,  on  the  ground-floor  of  the  Teatro  Vittorio 
Einanuele  ,  table  d'hote  at  5  o'cl.  3  fr. ;  Ristoratore  Nazionale  ,  adjoining 
the  theatre :  Venezia,  see  above ;  Sicilia,  Via  Garibaldi  121,  first  floor.  — 
Cafes,  liest  ices  at  the  Peloro,  Corso  Cavour,  Piazza  dell'  Annunziata ; 
Cafe  Nuovo,  see  above;  Palestro,  Via  Garibaldi,  not  far  from  the  Vittoria 
(inezza  granita'  15,  gelato'  25  c.).  — Beer  at  the  Birreria  Svizzera,  Via 
Garibaldi  219,  40  c.  per  bottle,  Vienna  beer  1  fr.  (A  German  skittle-club 
is  established  in  the  garden  here.  —  A  club  with  reading,  billiard,  and 
other  rooms  is  the  Casino  delta  Borsa  in  the  Teatro  Vittorio  Einanuele. 
Introduction  by  a  member  necessary  in  both  cases.) 

Cab  Tariff. 
Drive  in  the  town,  incl.  quay      .     .     . 

To  the  station 

To  the  station  at  night 

To  the  Campo  Santo        

To  the  Torre  di  Faro 

First  hour 

Each  additional  hour 

Donkeys  for  hire  opposite  the  Ospedale  Civile  (PI.  14),  in  the  pro- 
longation of  the  Corso  Cavour,  per  day  5,  half-day  3  fr. 

Post  Office  (PI.  18)  in  the  Palazzo  della  Provincia,  Corso  Cavour,  en- 
tered from  the  Str.  S.  Agostino,  a  side-street.  —  Diligence  Office  (Messa- 
gerie  Postali  Terrestri),  Corso  Cavour  148.  —  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  21), 
Piazza  dell'  Annunziata. 

Baths.  Sea  Baths  near  the  quay,  well  fitted  up,  i)2  fr.  —  Mineral 
Baths  (sulphur),  Largo  del  Purgatorio  6,  first  floor.  Warm,  Vapour, 
and  other  baths,  at  the  hydropathic  establishment,  Pal.  Brunacini,  Corso 
Cavour,  managed  by  Dr.  Genovese. 

Railway  to  Catania  and  Syracuse,  see  RR.  37,  39. 

Steamboats.  Regular  communication  witli  all  the  harbours  of  Italy, 
the  East,  and  Malta.  To  Naples  live  or  siv  times  weekly,  see  p.  226.  — 
To  Palermo  three  times  weekly:  Tues.  and  Thurs.  at  4  p.m.  direct  in 
about  12  hrs.;  Sund.  at  8  a.m.  via  Lipari,  Milazzo,  etc.  (comp.  p.  278).  — 
To  Catania  three  times,  and  to  Syracuse  once  weekly.  —  To  Malta  by 
Catania  and  Syracuse  once  weekly,  see  p.  328.  —  To  Ancona  once  weekly. 
—  A  steamer  of  the  Messageries  Maritimes  touches  at  Messina  once  weekly 
on  its  wav  to  Turkey,  and  one  of  the  Societa  Rubattino  four  times 
monthly  for  Egypt  and  the  Levant.—  To  Athens,  see  p.  351.  —  Vessels  of 
the  Florio  Co.  perform  the  circuit  of  Sicily,  see  p.  278.  —  To  Lipari, 
see  p.  291.  —  Offices:  Messageries  Maritimes,  Strada  Garibaldi  102,  entrance 
in  the  side-street  leading  to  the  quay ;  Societa  Florio  and  Society  Ru- 
battino, Marina  132,  opposite  the  Sanita;  Societa  Peirano-Dauovaro,  Via 
del    Rovere,  not    far    from    the  Vittoria:    Societa    La    Trinacria,  Vieo  del 


One 

lorse 

Two  horses 

single  1  return 

single 

return 

—  50 

85 

1  — 

1.50 

-  50 

85 

1  — 

1.7il 

1  — 

1.70 

o 

3- 

—  85 

1.50 

1.50 

9  _. 

4.50 

6.50 

6  — 

10 

1.50 

— 

o 

— 

1.— 

— 

1.50 

— 

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Z.SLdndrvajtremno  ET.2. 

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5.                              dei  TeaUru  E.3, 

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13.  Jbritan-a  del  Montorsali 
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23.  J77f«  GueZfbnia 


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History.  MESSINA.  35.  Route.      285 

Teatro  Vittorio  Emanuele ,  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Casino  della 
Borsa.  —  To  Beggio,  see  p.  290. 

Consulates.     American:  Mr.  Behn.     British:  Mr.  Richards. 

English  Church  Service. 

Photographs  and  Maps  of  Sicily  in  great  variety  sold  by  Welbatus,  Via 
Garibaldi  103.  —  Lithographer,  E.  Buhring. 

The  Climate  of  Messina  is  healthy,  being  neither  cold  in  winter  nor 
oppressively  hot  in  summer,  but  the  constant  current  of  air  passing  through 
the  strait  renders  it  trying  to  consumptive  or  rheumatic  persons. 

The  Fish  of  the  strait,  as  well  as  the  Mamertine  Wine  of  the  adjoining 
hills,  were   famous  ia  ancient  times,  and  are  still  esteemed. 

In  fine  weather  one  day  at  least  should  be  devoted  to  Messina.  The 
town  and  environs  present  some  excellent  points  of  view,  particularly 
towards  Calabria  by  evening  light,  while  the  morning  passage  to  Reggio 
affords  a  strikingly  grand  survey  of  Mt.  J£tn&  and  the  other  mountains  of 
Sicily.     The  sights  of  the  town  itself  are  unimportant. 

Messina,  the  chief  commercial  town  of  Sicily,  with  70,300,  or 
including  the  adjoining  48  villages  (casali)  112,000  inhab.,  the 
seat  of  an  appeal  court,  an  archbishop,  and  a  university,  is  situated 
on  the  Faro  or  Stretto  di  Messina,  and  is  overshadowed  by  a  range 
of  rugged  rocky  peaks.  In  grandeur  of  scenery  it  vies  with 
Palermo.  The  harbour,  which  is  formed  by  a  peninsula  in  the 
shape  of  a  sickle ,  is  the  busiest  in  Italy  in  point  of  steamboat 
traffic,  and  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world.  It  is  entered  annually 
by  upwards  of  10,000  vessels,  of  an  aggregate  burden  of  1,260,000 
tons,  of  which  about  1300  are  steamers  of  809,000  tons. 

The  town  is  on  the  whole  well  built,  and  has  several  handsome 
streets.  The  animated  harbour  is  flanked  by  the  Marina,  or  Corso 
Vittorio  Emanuele ,  with  the  monotonous  Palazzata.  Before  the 
earthquake  of  1783  the  houses  were  built  on  a  uniform  plan ,  but 
they  were  afterwards  only  partially  re-erected  in  the  same  manner. 
Parallel  to  the  Marina  runs  the  Via  Garibaldi,  beyond  which  is  the 
Corso  Cavour ;  and  the  Via  dei  Monasteri ,  still  farther  from  the 
quay,  forms  a  fourth  parallel  street.  The  upper  streets  of  the  town, 
and  particularly  the  Via  Monasteri ,  afford  charming  glimpses  of 
the  sea  and  the  opposite  coast  of  Calabria  through  the  cross-streets. 

Messina  has  experienced  many  vicissitudes.  It  was  founded  by 
Cumaean  pirates  and  Chalcidians  under  Perieres  and  Cratsemenes  in  732 
on  the  site  of  a  Sikelian  town,  which  the  inhabitants  named  Zancle  (i.  e. 
sickle)  from  the  peculiar  form  of  the  harbour,  and  it  was  governed  by  the 
laws  of  Charondas.  Here,  as  in  other  Sicilian  towns,  the  conflicts  of  the 
people  with  their  rulers  ended  with  the  establishment  of  a  tyranny.  About 
493,  fugitives  from  Samos  and  Miletus,  by  the  advice  of  Anaxilas  of  Rhegium, 
took  possession  of  the  defenceless  city.  Anaxilas  soon  afterwards  established 
himself  here,  and  emigrants  from  all  quarters,  chiefly  Messenians  from  the 
Peloponnesus,  settled  in  the  city  and  gave  it  the  name  of  Messana.  Anaxilas 
maintained  his  supremacy  throughout  all  the  vicissitudes  of  the  town  until 
his  death  in  477.  His  sons,  however,  retained  possession  of  the  supreme 
power  till  461  only,  when  the  original  constitution  of  the  town  was  revived. 
Messana  participated  in  the  wars  against  Ducetius,  and  subsequently  took 
the  part  of  the  Acragantines  against  Syracuse,  with  which  it  afterwards 
united  against  Leontini  and  the  Athenians.  To  the  latter,  however,  it  was 
compelled  to  surrender  in  427.  In  the  great  Athenian  and  Syracusan  war 
Messana  remained  neutral.  It  then  engaged  in  a  conflict  with  Dionysius, 
but  without  decisive  result  owing  to  the  disunion  occasioned  by  party-spirit. 
In  396  the  town  was   taken   and   entirely   destroyed   by   the   Carthaginian 


286      Route  35.  MESSINA.  History. 

Himilco;  a  few  only  of  the  inhabitants  effected  their  escape  to  the  moun- 
tains. Dionysius  speedily  rebuilt  the  town,  whence  he  proceeded  to  conquer 
the  not  far  distant  Rhegiuin.  After  a  variety  of  changes  the  Carthaginians 
gained  possession  of  the  place,  but  were  expelled  by  Timoleon.  In  the 
contests  with  Agathocles  it  again  took  the  side  of  the  Carthaginians,  whose 
mercenaries,  the  Mamertines  ('sons  of  Mars'),  treacherously  possessed  them- 
selves of  the  town  and  maintained  it  against  Pyrrhus.  Hievo  II.  of  Syracuse 
succeeded  in  reducing  it.  But  the  fruits  of  his  victory  on  the  Longanus 
in  270  were  reaped  by  Hannibal,  who  seized  the  castle  of  Messana. 
Against  him  the  Mamertines  called  in  the  aid  of  the  Romans,  and  thus  arose 
the  First  Punic  War.  When  it  was  invested  by  the  Syracusans  and  Car- 
thaginians, the  siege  was  raised  by  Appius  Claudius,  and  it  thenceforth 
became  a  Roman  town,  being  afterwards  regarded  with  especial  favour  by 
its  new  masters,  and  even  by  Verres.  In  the  war  between  Octavian  and 
Sextus  Pompeius  it  was  taken  and  plundered  by  the  soldiers  of  the  former. 
Augustus  then  established  a  colony  here ,  and  Messina  continued  to  be  a 
place  of  great  importance,  although  not  exercising  so  decisive  an  influence 
on  the  fortunes  of  Sicily  as  Syracuse  and  Lilybseum.  The  Saracens  took 
the  town  in  842,  and  it  subsequently  became  the  first  Norman  conquest. 
The  Crusades,  which  did  not  leave  Sicily  unaffected,  contributed  to  the 
rapid  increase  of  the  prosperity  of  the  place.  In  1189,  indeed,  it  suffered 
from  an  attack  of  Richard  Cosur  de  Lion,  who  with  Philip  Augustus  wintered 
here,  but  from  that  period  also  date  the  great  privileges,  which,  down  to 
1678,  rendered  it  an  almost  independent  town  and  the  head-quarters  of  the 
national  hatred  of  foreign  rule.  In  1282  it  was  in  vain  besieged  by  Charles 
of  Anjou.  The  bravery  of  its  commandant  Alaimo  and  the  courage  of  the 
Dina's  and  Chiarenza's  at  a  critical  time  saved  the  town  and  the  island. 
The  citizens  of  Messina  have  repeatedly  evinced  heroic  constancy  of  cha- 
racter. Towards  the  close  of  the  15th  cent,  the  town  enjoyed  the  utmost 
prosperity,  but  its  jealousy  of  Palermo  eventually  paved  the  way  for  its 
downfall.  In  the  16th  cent,  the  Emp.  Charles  V.  showed  great  favour  to 
Messina,  and  presented  it  with  gifts  such  as  fell  to  the  lot  of  few  other 
towns,  in  recognition  of  which  a  street  was  named  and  a  statue  erected 
(p.  288)  in  honour  of  his  son  Don  John  of  Austria  on  the  return  hither  of 
the  victorious  hero  of  Lepanto  (1571)  in  his  24th  year.  But  a  quarrel 
between  the  aristocratic  families  (Merli)  and  the  democratic  party  (Malvizzi), 
stimulated  by  the  government  which  had  long  been  jealous  of  the  privi- 
leges of  the  town,  caused  its  ruin  (1672-78).  The  Merli,  at  first  victorious, 
expelled  the  Spanish  garrison,  and  defended  themselves  heroically  against 
an  overwhelming  force.  To  save  their  city  from  capture  the  senate  sued  for 
the  aid  of  Louis  XIV.,  who  sent  an  army  and  tleet  to  conquer  the  island. 
In  this,  however,  he  was  unsuccessful,  notwithstanding  the  victory  gained 
by  Duquesne  over  the  united  Spanish  and  Dutch  fleets  under  De  Ruyter. 
In  1678  the  French  abandoned  the  place  in  an  almost  clandestine  manner, 
and  the  population  was  now  reduced  from  120,000  to  a  tenth  of  that 
number.  The  town  never  recovered  from  these  disasters,  and  was  after- 
wards kept  in  check  by  the  now  dismantled  citadel  erected  at  that  period. 
During  the  18th  cent.  Messina  was  overtaken  by  two  overwhelming  cala- 
mities —  a  fearful  plague  (1740) ,  of  which  40,000  persons  died,  and  an 
•  arthquake  (1783)  which  overthrew  almost  the  whole  town.  (Messina 
lies  on  the  line  of  contact  of  the  primary  and  secondary  formations,  on 
which  boundary  earthquakes  between  ^Etna  and  Vesuvius  are  always  most 
violent.)  The  severe  bombardment  of  3rd-7th  Sept.,  1848,  also  caused  great 
damage,  and  in  1854  the  cholera  carried  off  no  fewer  than  16,000  victims, 
but  at  the  present  day  the  town  is  again  in  a  prosperous  condition.  The 
original  town  lay  between  the  torrents  of  Portalegni  and  Boccetta,  but 
was  extended  under  Charles  V.  towards  the  N.  and  S.  The  suburbs  of 
S.  Leo  on  the  N.  and  Zanera  on  the  S.  are  now  completely  united  with 
the  town. 

Owing  to  the  numerous  calamities  which  Messina  has 
sustained  at  the  hand  of  man  and  from  natural  phenomena,  it 
contains  fewer  relics  of  antiquity  than  any  other  town  ia  Sicily. 


Cathedral.  MESSINA.  35.  Route.     287 

The  '"Cathedral,  or  Matrice  (PI.  1),  an  edifice  of  the  Norman 
period,  was  hegun  in  1098,  and  completed  under  Roger  II.  In 
1254  it  was  damaged  by  a  fire  which  broke  out  during  the 
obsequies  of  Conrad  IV.  In  1559  the  spire  of  the  campanile  was 
burned  down,  and  in  1783  the  campanile  and  the  transept  were 
overthrown  by  the  earthquake,  so  that  little  of  the  original  build- 
ing is  now  left.  The  form  of  the  church  is  that  of  a  Latin  cross, 
305  ft.  in  length,  and  across  the  transepts  145  ft.  in  width.  The 
choir  with  its  two  towers  was  entirely  rebuilt  in  1865.  The  tasteful 
entrance-facade  dates  from  the  14th  cent. 

Interior.  The  twenty-six  granite  columns  which  support  the  flat 
roof  are  said  to  have  once  belonged  to  a  temple  of  Neptune  near  the  Faro 
(p.  290). 

The  High  Altar ,  which  is  decorated  richly,  but  in  bad  taste,  is  said 
to  have  cost  no  less  than  3,825,000  fr.  in  1628.  The  receptacle  in  the  interior 
is  believed  by  the  faithful  to  contain  the  celebrated  epistle  of  the  Madonna 
della  Lettera,  which  the  Virgin  Mary  is  said  to  have  sent  to  the  citizens 
by  St.  Paul  in  the  year  42,  and  in  honour  of  which  great  festivals  are 
still  celebrated  (3rd  June).  This,  like  several  other  documents,  has  been 
proved  to  be  a  forgery  of  the  well  known  Constantine  Lascaris  (d.  1501). 
—  The  sarcophagus  by  the  wall  of  the  choir,  to  the  right  near  the  high- 
altar,  is  sacred  to  the  memory  of  Emp.  Conrad  IV.,  whose  remains  were 
burned.  The  sarcophagus  on  the  opposite  side ,  to  the  left,  contains  the 
remains  of  Alphonso  the  Generous  (d.  1458),  and  another  those  of  Queen 
Antonia,  widow  of  Frederick  III.  of  Arragon.  —  The  Mosaics  in  the  apse, 
of  Christ  with  the  Virgin,  St.  John,  and  the  archangels  Gabriel  and 
Michael ,  and  also  a  Madonna  in  Trono  on  the  left  and  St.  John  on  the 
right,  were  executed  during  the  reign  of  Frederick  II.  and  the  arehie- 
piscopate  of  Guidotto    (d.   1333). 

In  the  transept,  on  the  left,  is  a  Renaissance  altar  of  1530;  on  the 
right  is  the  interesting  monument  of  the  archbishop  Guidotto  de'  Tabiati 
(d.  1333),  by  Qregorio  da  Siena.  —  Two  marble  slabs  in  the  nave,  to  the 
left  by  the  organ ,  enumerate  the  privileges  granted  to  the  city  by  Henry 
VI.  Above  them  was  formerly  a  painting  representing  Henry  VI.,  Constance, 
and  their  son  Frederick  II.  —  The  pedestal  of  the  vessel  for  holy  water,  by 
the  side-entrance  to  the  left,  bears  a  Greek  inscription,  according  to  which 
it  once  supported  a  votive  offering  to  iEsculapius  and  Hygeia,  the  tutelary 
deities  of  the  town. 

In  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  ,  nearly  opposite  the  facade  of  the 
cathedral,  is  the  Fountain  of  Fra  Giov.  Ang.  Montorsoli  (PI.  13),  a 
pupil  of  Michael  Angelo,  executed  1547-51,  with  statues  of  the 
Nile ,  Ebro ,  Tiber ,  and  the  brook  Camaro  near  Messina  on  the 
margin  of  the  principal  basin,  and  richly  decorated  with  basreliefs. 

In  the  small  Piazza  de'  Oatalani,  not  far  from  the  cathedral,  is 
S.  Annunziata  dei  Catalani  (PI.  4),  the  oldest  Norman  church  at 
Messina.  A  temple  of  Neptune,  and  afterwards  a  mosque,  are  said 
once  to  have  occupied  the  same  site.  Over  the  door  is  a  Saracenic 
inscription.     The  columns  in  the  interior  are  antique. 

Opposite  the  Montorsoli  Fountain  and  the  cathedral  facade  is 
the  Via  dell'  Universita,  leading  to  the  — 

University  (PI.  22),  which  contains  a  Library  with  some 
valuable  MSS. ,  a  Natural  History  Collection,  a  few  antiquities 
from  Taormina,  and  a  small  Picture  Oallery.  The  gallery  is  worthy 
of  a  visit  as  it  contains  five  fine  works  by  Ai>lrmello  da  Messina  : 


288      Route  35.  MESSINA.  Lighthouse. 

two  bishops ,  an  *Entlironed  Madonna  (1473),  Angels,  and  an 
Annunciation  (admission  daily,  10-4  ;  -we  turn  to  the  right  in  the 
court  and  ascend  the  staircase  on  the  right ;  at  the  top  we  follow 
the  passage  in  a  straight  direction  ;  at  the  end  of  it ,  in  the  Segre- 
taria  on  the  right,  we  find  the  custodian,  Y2  fr-)- 

In  the  Benedictine  church  of  8.  Maddalena  (PI.  9)  a  fearful 
struggle  took  place  in  Sept.,  1848,  between  Messinians  and  the 
invading  Swiss  troops. 

At  the  corner  of  the  Cobso  Cavour  is  the  Palazzo  Brunacini 
(PI.  15) ,  where  a  scene  which  has  been  admirably  described  by 
Goethe  took  place  between  that  illustrious  traveller  and  the  in- 
tendant. 

In  the  Corso  Cavour,  on  the  left,  is  S.  Niccolb  (PI.  12),  con- 
taining a  *Christ,  over  the  high  altar,  the  masterpiece  of  the  painter 
Girol.  Alibrando  of  Messina  (1519).  On  the  same  side  is  the  Pa- 
lazzo della  Provincia,  containing  the  Post  Office  (PL  18).  On  the 
right,  farther  on,  is  the  small  Piazza  dell'  Annunziata,  embellished 
with  a  statue  of  Don  John  of  Austria  (PL  19),  which  was  erected 
by  the  Messinians  in  1572  (p.  286). 

Not  far  from  the  Boccetta  is  the  church  of  S.  Francesco  d'Assisi 
(PL  6),  erected  in  the  13th  cent.,  behind  the  high  altar  of  which 
is  an  antique  sarcophagus  with  the  Rape  of  Proserpine. 

In  the  Via  Garibaldi,  adjoining  an  open  space  where  a  band 
often  plays  on  summer  evenings  ,  is  situated  the  Palazzo  Munici- 
pal (PL  16) ,  erected  by  Giacomo  Minutoli  in  1806-29.  —  The 
Teatro  Vittorio  Emanuele  (PL  20) ,  opened  in  1852 ,  is  adorned 
with  sculptures  in  marble  by  Rosario  Zagari,  and  is  the  finest 
theatre  in  Sicily. 

Pursuing  the  same  direction,  we  next  come  to  the  public 
gardens  of  La  Flora,  commonly  known  as  the  Villa  (PL  G,  2), 
where  a  band  often  plays  on  summer  evenings,  and  sometimes  also 
on  winter  afternoons. 

The  *Quay,  with  its  brisk  steamboat  traffic,  affords  a  pleasant 
walk.  On  the  S.  side  is  the  Dogana  (PL  F,  5),  on  the  site  of  a 
palace  once  occupied  by  Emp.  Frederick  II.  and  other  monarchs. 

We  may  now  visit  the  peninsula  on  the  E.  side  of  the  harbour. 
The  Citadel  here  is  now  being  taken  down.  Beyond  it,  on  the 
right,  is  the  Protestant  Cemetery.  We  next  come  to  the  large 
Lighthouse  (PL  H,  3),  nearly  1  M.  from  the  Dogana,  which  com- 
mands a  remarkably  fine  *view  (custodian  ^2  fr.).  To  the  W.  lies 
the  town  with  its  sheltering  mountains  (the  Dinnamari,  the  highest 
peak  on  the  left,  3707  ft. ;  the  Monte  Cicci  on  the  right,  1995  ft.). 
To  the  E.  are  the  mountains  of  Calabria,  which  look  wouderfully 
near  in  clear  weather.  We  may  then  return  from  the  Lazaretto  to 
Messina  by  boat  (V4  fr.). 

The  best  survey  of  the  town  is  obtained  from  the  *VilIa  Guel- 
fonia  (PL  23  ;  reached  by  ascending  the  side-street  of  S.  Agostino, 


Campo  Santo.  MESSINA.  35.  Route.      289 

which  diverges  from  the  Corso  by  the  post-office,  and  turning  to  the 
right  at  the  top  of  it).  It  belongs  to  the  advocate  Sign.  Santi  De 
Cola,  who  kindly  admits  visitors  (small  fee  to  porter  on  leaving). 
This  spot  is  said  to  have  been  once  occupied  by  the  castle  of  the 
Mamertines,  and  the  remains  of  the  Norman  stronghold  of  Mata- 
grifone  or  Bocca  Ouelfonia  are  still  to  be  seen  here. 

A  still  more  extensive  view  is  obtained  from  the  dismantled 
fort  of  *Castellaccio,  situated  high  above  the  town  to  the  W.  (as- 
cent '/2  nr0- 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  Corso  Cavour  wc  skirt  the  Tovrente  Porlalegni  to 
the  right  (W.) ;  after  3  min.  turn  to  the  left  into  the  Via  Alloro;  then 
follow  the  Vico  Lungo  Arcipeschieri  to  the  gate;  immediately  beyond  the 
gate  turn  to  the  left,  and  after  10  paces  ascend  bv  the  steep,  rain-worn 
path  to  the  right  (comp.  PL  D,  4;  D,  3;  U,  3). 

This  hill  was  fortified  in  ancient  times  also.  The  present  build- 
ing ,  which  is  now  being  removed,  was  erected  in  1550,  under 
Charles  V.  The  view  embraces  the  town,  the  strait,  and  the  Ca- 
labrian  Mts. 

Farther  to  the  S.  rises  Fort  Gonzaga,  erected  in  1540,  a  simi- 
lar point  of  view  (comp.  PI.  C,  5  ;  ascent  '/2  nr-  >  turu  to  tm3  right 
at  the  end  of  the  Corso  Cavour,  and  after  150  paces,  beyond  a 
fountain,  cross  the  smaller  bridge  to  the  left).  The  hill  between 
Gonzaga  and  the  town  is  the  Mons  Chalcidicus,  on  which  Hiero  II. 
pitched  his  camp  in  261,  and  where  Charles  of  Anjou  established 
his  headquarters  at  a  later  period.  In  1861  Cialdini  bombarded 
the  citadel  from  this  point. 

On  an  eminence  1  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  lies  the  new 
*Campo  Santo,  which  we  reach  by  the  Catania  road.  (Or  ,  about 
x\l  M.  beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Torrente  Portalegni ,  we  may 
follow  the  Via  del  Campo  Santo  to  the  right,  which  passes  the  back 
of  the  cemetery;  comp.  PL  1),  6;  cab,  see  p.  284.)  The  view  from 
this  height  is  very  striking.  Handsome  Ionic  colonnades  are  now 
being  erected  here,  and  under  them  is  interred  the  patriotic  Sici- 
lian historian  La  Farina ,  a  zealous  promoter  of  the  union  of 
Sicily  and  Piedmont  in  1860.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  is  a  modern 
church  in  the  Gothic  style. 

Another  fine  point  of  view  is  the  Monte  dei  Cappuccini  to  the 
N.  (PL  D,  E,  1  ;  ascent  of  10  min.  from  the  end  of  the  Via  Gari- 
baldi, turning  to  the  left  beyond  the  Torrente  Trapani).  The  hill 
is  now  used  as  a  drilling-ground.  The  best  stand-point  is  near 
the  cross. 

A  pleasant  view  is  also  obtained  from  the  EremUaggio  di  Trapani, 
reached  by  ascending  the  Torrente  Trapani  for  1  hr. 

*Excursion  to  the  Faro  (T'/oM.;  cab,  see  p.  284;  bargain 
necessary  as  to  the  stay  to  be  made).  The  road  skirts  the  base  of 
precipitous  heights  rising  near  the  shore,  passes  the  country-houses 
of  Al  Bingo,  and  leads  to  the  suppressed  Basilian  monastery  of 
Salvatore  dei  (ireci,  which  was  founded  by  Roger  I.  on  the  promon- 
Baedekeb.    Italy  III.    6th  Edition.  19 


290      Route  35.  MESSINA. 

tory  of  the  harbour,  but  transferred  hither  in  1540.  The  view  of 
Calabria  becomes  more  striking  as  the  strait  narrows.  We  next 
pass  the  fishing  -village  of  Pace  and  through  the  colonnade  of  the 
church  of  La  Orotta ,  which  is  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  a  temple 
of  Diana.  The  two  salt-lakes  of  Pantani  are  connected  with  the 
sea  by  open  channels.  A  famous  temple  of  Neptune  once  stood  here. 

The  fishing  village  of  Faro  (Trattoria  Peloro) ,  situated  on  the 
promontory  which  forms  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  island  of  Sicily 
( Promontorium  Pelorum),  sprang  up  at  the  beginning  of  the  pre- 
sent century,  when  the  English  constructed  intrenchments  here 
in  order  to  prevent  the  French  under  Murat  from  crossing  to  the 
Sicilian  coast.  On  the  extremity  of  the  promontory ,  1/2  M.  from 
the  village,  rises  the  Lighthouse ,  which  should  be  ascended  for 
the  sake  of  the  view  (custodian  not  always  on  the  spot ;  enquiry  to 
be  made  in  the  village).  This  is  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Strait 
of  Messina  (3600  yds.).  On  a  rock  opposite,  to  the  N.E.,  lies 
Scilla;  to  the  left  of  it  is  Bagnara;  then  the  lofty  Monte  S.  Elia, 
surmounted  by  a  small  chapel.  To  the  left  below  the  promontory 
glitters  Palmi,  beyond  which  is  the  bay  of  Gioja  with  the  Capo 
Vaticano  stretching  far  out  to  the  W.  To  the  N.  and  N.W.  are 
the  Lipari  Islands  and  the  open  sea. 

Chaeybdis,  according  to  the  legend  of  the  Greek  mariners,  lay  opposite 
tn  Scylla,  whence  the  well  known  proverb ;  but  the  name  is  now  be- 
lieved to  have  been  applied  to  the  strong  currents  (rema,  ptOfxct)  which 
sweep  round  this  coast  on  a  change  of  tide.  The  principal  of  these  are 
oil'  the  village  of  Faro  and  near  the  small  lighthouse  at  the  extremity  of 
the  'sickle'  of  Messina.  The  latter  current  is  called  the  Oarofalo  (car- 
nation) owing  to  its  circular  form.  Into  this  species  of  whirlpool  the 
diver  Cola  Pesce  of  Catania  precipitated  himself  during  the  reign  of  Fre- 
derick II.,  an  incident  on  which  Schiller  founded  one  of  his  ballads. 

An  Excursion  from  Messina  to  Scilla  takes  6-7  hours.  The  direct 
distance  by  sea  is  11  M.,  and  the  passage  occupies  l1j2-2'[2  hrs.  according 
to  the  state  of  the  wind  and  tide.  The  castle  of  Scilla  is  worthy  of  a 
visit  (see  p.  203). 

A  'Trip  to  Reggio  (p.  212)  is  strongly  recommended,  especially  in 
the  morning,  when  the  Sicilian  mountains  and  the  majestic  JStna  are 
lighted  by  the  sun.  Steamer  daily  at  6.15  a.  m.  and  2  p.  m.;  single  ticket 
l'|2  fr.;  embarcation  25  c.  —  Monte  Elia,  see  p.  203;  Aspromonte  see  p.  212. 

The  Telegrafo  (p.  283),  reached  by  carriage  in  2  hrs.  by  the  new 
provincial  road  (PI.  E,  1),  is  another  fine  point.  Walkers  or  riders 
(donkeys,  see  p.  284)  effect  a  great  saving  by  following  the  paths  which 
cut  off  the  windings  of  the  road.  Beautiful  view.  —  Walkers  and  riders 
should  return  by  S.  Muria  delta  Scald,  or  della  Valle,  commonly  known 
as  L'Abbadiazza,  the  interesting  ruins  of  a  Norman  nunnery.  The  W. 
portal  and  other  parts  of  the  church,  which  was  richly  endowed  by 
William  II.  and  Constance ,  date  from  the  12th  century.  When  Peter 
of  Arragon  and  the  licentious  Matilda  Alaimo-Scaletta  returned  to  Messina, 
which  had  just  been  relieved  from  the  siege  of  Charles  of  Anjou,  he  was 
received  here  by  the  jubilant  Messinians  and  their  brave  commandant 
Alaimo  (2nd  Oct.  1282).  After  the  plague  of  1347  the  nuns  removed  to 
the  town,  using  the  nunnery  as  a  summer  residence,  but  as  this  was  pro- 
hibited by  the  Council  of  Trent,  the  edifice  fell  to  decay,  and  is  now  a 
picturesque  ruin  with  desolate  surroundings. 

If  time  permits,  the  traveller  may  proceed  to  the  N.  of  the  Telegrafo 
to  Caslanea ,  a  beautifully  situated  village  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  Mte. 
Cieci  (1998  ft.),  and  may  also  ascend  the  latter  hill  itself  (extensive  view). 


LIPARI  ISLANDS.  36.  Route.     291 

The  direct  route  to  the  top  of  Mte.  Cicci  (2'|2  hrs.)  ascends  the  Torrenle 
di  Paradiso,  which  crosses  the  Faro  road  and  falls  into  the  sea  2'|2  M.  to 
the  N.  of  Messina.  The  whole  of  this  range  of  hills  commands  admirable 
views  in  both  directions :  N.  as  far  as  Milazzo  and  the  Lipari  Islands, 
and  E.  over  the  strait  and  the  Calabrian  Mts. 


36.     The  Lipari  Islands. 

For  this  excursion  the  traveller  avails  himself  of  the  steamer  starting 
from  Messina  for  Palermo  on  Sundays  at  8  a.  m. ,  arriving  at  Lipari 
at  1  or  2  p.  in.  (comp.  p.  278).  Monday  should  be  devoted  to  the  is- 
land of  Vulcano,  Tuesday  to  Lipari,  and  on  Wednesday  morning  the  tra- 
veller may  return  to  Messina  by  the  steamer  from  Palermo.  In  order  to 
visit  Stromboli  three  days  more  are  required ;  in  this  case  Messina  may 
be  reached  from  Lipari ,  via  Milazzo ,  by  the  Sunday  afternoon  steamer 
just  mentioned,  and  thence  by  land.  Boat  from  Lipari  to  Stromboli  and 
back  25-30  fr.  The  only  inn  in  Lipari  is  the  Locanda  Caravello  \  in  the 
other  islands  accommodation  must,  be  obtained  at  private  houses.  A  visit 
to  the  Lipari  Islands  (from  Messina  and  back  in  three  days,  expense  about 
60  fr. ;  to  Stromboli  50  fr.  more)  is  extremely  interesting  to  the  naturalist, 
as  well  as  to  the  admirer  of  scenery ,  and ,  irrespective  of  the  varied 
historical  associations  and  legendary  lore  connected  with  them,  will  be 
remembered  by  the  traveller  as  one  of  the  most  pleasing  parts  of  his 
Italian  tour. 

The  Lipari  Islands  (jEoliae,  Liparaeae,  Vulcaniae,  Hephaestiades,  Stro- 
phades),  which  are  of  volcanic  origin,  consist  of  seven  islands  and  ten  islets, 
variously  named  by  the  ancients,  which  supplied  the  Greeks  with  a  fruitful 
theme  of  speculation  and  poetical  composition.  The  aborigines  were  Italian  ; 
the  earliest  king,  Liparus,  was  a  son  of  Auson.  At  the  time  of  the  Trojan 
war,  jEolus  arrived  at  Lipari,  married  the  daughter  of  Liparus,  and  became 
the  lather  of  six  sons,  whose  supremacy  extended  even  to  Sicily.  Ulysses 
(Odyss.  x.)  is  also  said  to  have  visited  .<Eolus  in  the  course  of  his  wanderings. 
As  the  number  of  the  inhabitants  had  become  greatly  reduced,  Pentathlus, 
a  Heraclides  like  jEolus,  established  on  the  island  a  colony  of  Cnidians 
and  Rhodians,  who  had  been  unable  to  maintain  themselves  in  the  S.W. 
angle  of  Sicily.  The  new  settlers  cultivated  the  soil  in  common ,  and 
defended  themselves  bravely  against  the  attacks  of  the  Etruscan  pirates. 

Lipara,  which  enjoyed  the  friendship  of  Syracuse,  was  plundered  by 
the  Athenians.  The  islands  afterwards  suffered  from  the  incursions  of 
the  Carthaginians.  In  260  the  Roman  admiral  Cnseus  Cornelius  Scipio  was 
surrounded  in  the  harbour  of  Lipara  and  taken  prisoner  by  the  Carthagi- 
nians. The  Romans  sent  a  colony  thither,  but  in  Cicero's  time  the  islands 
were  only  partially  cultivated.  This  was  possibly  owing  to  the  convulsions 
of  nature  which  must  have  occurred  in  B.C.  204,  when  the  island  of  Vul- 
canello  was  upheaved  from  beneath  the  sea.  In  the  year  B.C.  126  erup- 
tions under  water  were  also  observed  here,  destroying  vast  numbers  of 
fish.  In  the  middle  ages  the  Saracens  took  possession  of  the  island,  but 
were  expelled  thence  by  the  Normans  in  the  11th  cent.,  and  the  Lipari 
group  now  became  united  with  Sicily.  During  the  wars  of  the  14th  cent, 
between  the  Sicilian  kings  and  the  Anjous  of  Naples,  the  islands  changed 
hands  according  to  the  varying  fortunes  of  the  respective  belligerents. 
Alphonso  the  Generous  annexed  them  to  Naples,  but  Ferdinand  the  Catholic 
united  them  finally  with  Sicily.  In  1544  they  were  plundered  by  Haireddin 
Barbarossa,  and  in  1783  suffered  greatly  by  the  earthquake. 

Lipari ,  called  Melingunis  in  the  most  ancient  times ,  the 
largest  and  most  productive  of  the  islands,  is  about  10!/2  sq.  M. 
in  area.  The  ancient  town  of  the  same  name  (Xi7iapa  probably 
signifies  'the  fertile')  lay  on  an  isolated  rock  on  the  E.  coast  of 
the  island,    where   the   fort    is  now  situated,    around  which  the 

19* 


292      Route  36.  UP  AM.  The  Lipari 

fertile  slopes  of  cultivated  land  rise  in  the  form  of  an  amphi- 
theatre towards  San?  Angelo,  the  central  mountain  of  the  island, 
extending  in  a  spacious  crescent  between  Monte  Rosa  (754  ft.) 
on  the  N.  and  M.  di  Ouardia  (1214  ft.)  on  the  S.  In  the  centre 
of  the  plain,  between  the  fort  and  the  ascent  towards  S.  Angelo, 
on  the  site  of  the  new  episcopal  palace,  were  once  situated 
extensive  ancient  Baths,  partially  excavated  at  the  beginning  of 
the  present  century,  but  again  filled  up  by  the  Bishop  Todaro, 
in  order  that  they  might  not  attract  visitors.  In  this  vicinity 
was  situated  the  Necropolis,  where  Greek  tombs  are  still  found, 
bearing  inscriptions  on  the  basaltic  tuff-stone,  some  of  which  are 
preserved  in  the  seminary.  The  whole  area  is  now  called  Diana, 
from  a  temple  to  that  goddess  which  once  stood  here.  The  best 
collection  of  Liparian  antiquities  is  now  in  the  possession  of  the 
heirs  of  Baron  Mandralisca  at  Cefalu  (p.  280).  M.  Torremuzza 
enumerates  twenty-three  different  coins  of  Lipari.  Population  of  the 
whole  island  12,000.  A  bishop,  with  thirty-two  canons,  has  since 
1400  presided  over  the  diocese,  which  was  formerly  united  with 
Patti.  The  secular  administration  is  conducted  by  a  delegate, 
subordinate  to  the  prefect  of  Messina.  The  town ,  erected 
around  the  fort,  is  of  modern  origin.  The  cathedral  and  three 
other  churches  are  situated  within  the  precincts  of  the  castle. 
The  Cathedral  and  church  of  Addolorata  contain  pictures  by 
Alibrandi  (b.  at  Messina  in  1470).  The  sacristy  of  the  former 
commands  a  beautiful  view  towards  the  sea.  Most  of  the  private 
dwellings  within  the  castle  are  now  hired  by  government  for 
the  accommodation  of  about  200  manutengoli  (accomplices)  of 
brigands  who  are  confined  there.  The  Marina  Lunya,  N.  of  the 
castle,  is  occupied  by  fishermen  only.  In  the  vicinity  is  a  warm 
spring.  To  the  S.,  by  the  landing-place  of  the  steamboats,  con- 
tiguous to  the  church  of  Anirna  del  Purgatorio,  which  abuts  on 
the  sea,  are  situated  the  warehouses  of  the  merchants  who  ex- 
port the  products  of  the  island  :  pumice-stone,  currants  (passo- 
line)  grown  on  reed-trellises,  sulphur,  Malmsey  wine,  excellent 
figs,  etc.  Oranges  do  not  thrive  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of 
water.  For  domestic  purposes  the  rain  is  collected  on  the  flat 
roofs. 

The  tour  of  the  island  occupies  6-8  hrs.  (donkey  and  atten- 
dant 6  fr.).  We  ride  first  to  the  hot  springs  of  San  Calogero 
(6  M.),  which  issue  in  a  desolate  valley,  opening  towards  the 
W.  side  of  the  island,  with  such  force  that  they  were  formerly 
used  to  turn  a  mill.  Temperature  about  126°  Fahr.  Bath-house 
about  to  be  erected.  We  proceed  thence  to  Le  Stufe  (also  called 
Bagno  Secco),  the  vapour-baths  described  by  Diodorus  Siculus, 
where,  with  the  aid  of  the  guide,  we  may  succeed  in  finding 
some  of  the  remarkable  fossils  which  abound  here  (leaves,  wood 
in  lava,  etc.).    Sant' Angelo  (lilf/2  ft.)  may  next  be  ascended.     The 


Islands.  VULCANO.  36.  Route.     293 

extinct  volcano,  now  overgrown  with  grass  and  broom,  affords  the 
best  survey  of  the  town  below,  and  the  entire  group  of  islands, 
of  which  the  spectator  is  nearly  in  the  centre.  A  path  descends 
thence  to  Capo  Castagna,  the  N.  end  of  the  island,  passing  the 
Monte  Chirica  (1978  ft.),  and  traversing  the  Campo  Bianco, 
where  pumice-stone  is  extensively  excavated ,  being  brought  to 
the  surface  by  shafts,  and  dragged  down  to  the  coast  (Baja  della 
Pumice)  on  a  perilous  path  (a  walk  of  3/4  hr.)  by  men,  women, 
and  children.     From  this  point  we  return  to  the  town. 

Vulcano  (Thermissa,  Hiera,  Vulcania,  Therusia),  with  its  con- 
stantly smoking  crater  (Sicil.  La  Fossa),  is  entirely  uncultivated 
(area  8V2  s1-  M.).  A  narrow  isthmus  connects  it  with  the  smaller 
island  of  Vulcanello ,  which  according  to  Orosius  (iv.  20) ,  was 
suddenly  upheaved  about  the  year  B.C.  200,  and  has  since  retained 
its  original  form.  In  order  to  visit  the  great  crater ,  we  proceed 
by  boat  with  two  rowers  (4-6  fr.)  from  Lipari  in  1  hr.  to  the  Porto 
di  Levante,  the  bay  which  separates  Vulcano  from  Vulcanello,  and 
disembark  near  the  sulphur-works  of  the  Neapolitan  family  of 
Nunziante.  A  good  footpath  (where  the  peculiar  hollow  rever- 
beration produced  by  a  heavy  footstep  should  be  observed)  leads 
in  40  min.  to  the  summit  of  the  volcano,  into  which  the  traveller 
may  descend,  especially  during  the  prevalence  of  the  Sirocco, 
when,  like  Stromboli,  it  emits  less  smoke.  The  greatest  diameter 
of  the  crater  is  upwards  of  550  yds.  The  precipitous  walls  on 
the  E.,  8.,  and  W.  are  covered  with  yellow  incrustations  of  sul- 
phur, and  flames  issue  perpetually  from  a  fissure  in  the  S.E. 
corner,  being,  however,  more  distinctly  visible  by  night.  A  visit 
to  the  borax  chambers  excavated  in  the  crater  by  an  enterprising 
Englishman  is  interesting.  After  descending,  the  traveller  should 
visit  a  boiling-hot  sulphur-spring,  which  issues  at  the  Porto  di 
Ponente,  a  few  paces  from  the  shore,  and  then  return  to  Lipari. 
(Provisions  should  be  brought  from  Lipari,  as  nothing  can  be 
procured  from  the  workmen  of  the  manufactory,  who  live  in  caves, 
and  subsist  on  bread  and  ricotta  or  goats'  cheese,  here  called  frutte 
di  mandra.) 

Isola  Salina  (Didyme,  i.  e.  twins ;  Arabic  Oeziret  Dindima ; 
area  10y6  sq.  M.)  consists  of  the  two  cones  of  extinct  volcanoes, 
Monte  Vergine  (2821  ft.)  to  the  N.,  and  Monte  Salvatore  (3156  ft.), 
or  Malaspina,  to  the  S. ;  whence  the  Greek  name.  The  island  is 
extremely  fertile,  and  the  almost  exclusive  source  of  the  famous 
Malmsey  wine.  It  may  be  visited  from  Lipari  on  the  same  day 
as  Vulcano.     Its  four  villages  contain  4900  inhabitants. 

Filicuri  (Phamicusa ,  Arabic  Oeziret  Ficudd) ,  to  the  W.  of 
Salina,  was  anciently  olothed  with  palms,  whence  its  Greek  name, 
but  is  now  almost  entirely  uncultivated. 

Alicuri,  9i/2  M.  to  the  "W.  of  Filicuri,  called  Ericusa  by  the 
ancients,  because  uncultivated  and  clothed  with  furze  only,  is  in- 


294      Route  36.  STROMBOLI. 

habited  by  500  shepherds  and  fishermen.  Circumference  6V2  M. 
No  tolerable  landing-place. 

To  the  N.E.  of  Lipari  is  situated  a  small  group  of  is- 
lands, which  were  possibly  once  connected,  prior  to  a  remarkable 
eruption  recorded  by  Orosius  and  Pliny,  which  took  place  here, 
B.C.  l'2(i.  The  largest  of  these  is  Panaria  (Hiceaia),  which  the 
ancients  did  not  reckon  as  one  of  the  seven  JEolian  islands 
(instead  of  it  they  regarded  the  small  island  of  Lisca  Bianca,  or 
Euonymus,  as  one  of  the  number),  T1^  M.  from  Lipari,  and  almost 
entirely  uncultivated.  Highest  point  1381  ft.  —  The  island  of 
Basiluzzo  contains  a  few  relics  of  antiquity. 

Stromboli,  22  M.  N.N.E.  of  Lipari,  named  Strongyle  on  account 
of  its  circular  form,  was  regarded  by  the  ancients  as  the  seat  of 
^Eolus,  the  god  of  the  winds,  for  which  Pliny  gives  the  some- 
what unsatisfactory  reason,  that  the  weather  could  be  foretold 
three  days  in  advance  from  the  smoke  of  the  volcano.  It  is 
usually  stated  that  Vulcano  and  Stromboli  smoke  most  copiously 
during  the  Sirocco,  but  the  islanders  contradict  this,  and  main- 
tain that  the  smoke  is  densest  during  the  'Ponente',  or  W.  wind. 
In  the  middle  ages  Charles  Martel  was  believed  to  have  been 
banished  to  Stromboli.  Returning  crusaders  professed  distinctly 
to  have  heard  the  lamentations  of  tortured  souls  in  purgatory, 
to  which  this  was  said  to  be  the  entrance,  imploring  the  inter- 
cession of  the  monks  of  Cluguy  for  their  deliverance.  It  was 
this  that  induced  Odilo  of  Clugny  (d.  1018)  to  institute  the  festi- 
val of  All  Souls'  Day. 

The  cone  of  Stromboli  (3022  ft.)  is  one  of  the  few  volcanoes 
which  are  in  a  constant  state  of  activity.  The  crater  lies  to  the 
N.  of  the  highest  peak  of  the  island,  and  at  regular  intervals 
ejects  showers  of  stones,  almost  all  of  which  again  fall  within 
the  crater.  The  traveller  may  therefore  approach  the  brink  and 
survey  the  interior  without  danger. 

37.    From  Messina  to  Catania.    Taormina. 

59'|2  M.  Railway.  Four  trains  daily  in  3  hrs.,  fares  10  fr.  75,  7  fr.  55, 
5  fr.  40  c;  to  Giardini  (Taormina)  in  13|4  hr.,  fares  5  fr.  45,  3  fr.  80, 
2  fr.  75  c. ;  to  Letojanni  (see  below),  4  fr.  75,  3  fr.  35,  2  fr.  40  c.  —  A 
periodica  still  runs  between  Aci-Reale  and  Catania,  see  p.  300.  —  A  Steam- 
boat also  runs  three  times  weekly  from  Messina  to  Catania  (Sund.,  Mond., 
and  Thurs.),  see  p.  284. 

Half-a-day  suffices  for  a  hasty  visit  to  Taormina.  The  traveller  whose 
time  is  limited  should  start  from  Messina  by  the  afternoon-train,  alight 
at  Giardini,  and  ascend  at  once  to  Taormina  in  order  thence  to  see  the 
sunset,  and  next  morning  the  sunrise.  (The  midday  lights  are  less  favour- 
able.) Then  by  the  early  train  to  Catania.  If  possible,  however,  two  or 
three  days  should  be  devoted  to  Taormina,  which  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  spots  in  Sicily.  Those  who  intend  returning  to  Messina  should 
select  the  interesting  route  by  Letojanni.  On  quitting  the  station  at  Messina 
travellers    are  subjected  to  lenient  custom-house  formalities. 

The  railway  skirts  the  coast,   penetrating  the  promontories  by 


GIARDINI.  37.  Route.      295 

means  of  fourteen  tunnels  ,  crossing  many  flumare,  or  torrents,  the 
beds  of  which  are  generally  dry  ,  and  affording  fine  views  on  both 
sides.  Soon  after  leaving  Messina  we  observe  the  new  Gampo 
Santo  on  the  hill  to  the  right,  with  its  conspicuous  white  Gothic 
church.  4  M.  Tremestieri,  7  M.  Oalati,  10  M.  Oiampilieri.  On 
an  abrupt  eminence,  inland,  is  situated  the  extensive  monastery 
of  S.  Placido,  to  which  a  pleasant  excursion  may  be  made. 

1.1  M.  Scaletta,  the  residence  of  the  Ruffo  family,  Princes  of 
Scaletta.  The  picturesque  castle  rises  on  the  right  as  we  approach 
the  station.  15  M.  AVi,  with  sulphur-baths.  Beyond  it  Roccalumera 
is  seen  on  the  hill  to  the  right.  The  train  crosses  several  broad 
flumare.  17  M.  Nizza  di  Sicilia  (S.  Ferdinando),  with  a  ruined 
castle  of  Prince  Alcontres.  The  neighbouring  valley  of  the  Fiume 
di  Nisi  contains  mines  of  copper  and  silver,  now  abandoned,  but 
which  it  is  intended  again  to  work.  In  the  woods  here  Henry  VI. 
met  his  death.  20'/2M.  8.  Teresa.  Several  more  broad  torrent-beds 
are  crossed.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the  beautiful  Capo  8. 
Alessio,  with  a  deserted  fort.  On  the  hill  to  the  right  lies  the  town 
of  Forza.  Beyond  the  tunnel  (Traforo  di  S.  Alessio)  which  pene- 
trates the  cape,  a  view  is  obtained  of  the  promontory  of  Taormina 
with  the  ruins  of  the  theatre.  Here  are  the  Tauromenitanian 
passes  of  the  ancients,  and  the  frontier  between  the  territories  of 
Messana  and  Naxos. 

26  M.   Letojanni. 

Taormina  (l-l1^  hr. ;  donkey  2  fr.)  may  be  reached  hence  by  a  beautiful 
route,  which,  however,  is  better  suited  for  the  descent.  We  follow  the 
high  road  for  1  M.,  and  then  diverge  by  a  footpath  to  the  right  to  the 
marble-quarries.  A  boy  had  perhaps  better  be  taken  as  a  guide,  though 
not  absolutely  necessary. 

30  M.  Giardini  (Locanda  Vittoria) ,  an  insignificant  place, 
often  visited  by  fever,  is  the  station  for  Taormina.  From  the  bay 
here  Garibaldi  crossed  to  Calabria  in  the  autumn  of  1860. 


Taormina  lies  on  an  abrupt  hill  about  385  ft.  above  the  railway- 
station  of  Giardini ,  and  is  reached  by  a  new  carriage-road,  as  well 
as  by  several  foot  and  bridle-paths.  The  road  diverges  to  the  left 
from  the  Messina  road,  near  the  Capo  di  Taormina,  about  ll/t  M. 
to  the  E.  of  the  station,  and  ascends  in  long  windings  for  nearly 
2  M.  About  halfway  to  the  Capo  Taormina  a  steep  footpath  di- 
verges to  the  left ,  while  the  bridle-path  most  commonly  used  as- 
cends a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  S.W.  of  the  station ,  following 
the  bed  of  the  Torrente  Selina  part  of  the  way  (reaching  the  town 
in  30-40  min.).  Porter  to  carry  small  articles  of  luggage  s/t~i  fr.  ; 
donkey  l-l1/^  fr-  j  carriage  for  one  person  3-4  fr.,  for  several  per- 
sons about  6  fr.  (most  travellers  will  leave  their  heavier  luggage 
at  the  station). 

Taormina.  —  "Bulla  Veduta ,  with  beautiful  view,  R.  2,  D.  3'^, 
pension  8  fr. ;    "Lik-anda    Timico  ,    a  small,  old  established  inn.  with  new 


296      Route  37. 


TAOKMINA. 


From  Messina 


dependance  below  the  theatre,  similar  charges ,  pension  6-7  fr.  ;    Albekgo 
Humboldt  and  Aleeroo  di  Fkancia,  cheaper. 

Taormina,  the  ancient  Tauromenium,  a  town  with  3000  inhab., 
consisting  of  a  long  street  with  several  diverging  lanes,  is  most 
beautifully  situated ,  and  is  commanded  by  the  ruins  of  a  Castle 
perched  on  a  rocky  height  (1299  ft.  above  the  sea-level).  Above 
the  latter  rises  the  hill  of  Mola  (2083  ft.),  and  farther  distant  is 
the  Monte  Ventre  (2897  ft.). 


ScaU  nel    I:  50.000. 


=1 


The  castle  was  formerly  the  Acropolis  of  Tauromeniiim,  which,  after  the 
destruction  of  Naxos  in  B.C.  403,  was  founded  by  the  Siculi  under  Dionysius, 
who  granted  them  the  necessary  land.  They,  however,  soon  renounced 
their  allegiance  to  him  and  joined  the  Carthaginians,  and  Dionysius  besieged 
their  town  in  vain.  On  the  restoration  of  peace  he  accordingly  established 
a  new  colony  in  the  town,  and  in  358  Andromachus,  father  of  the  historian 
Timfeus  who  was  born  here,  transferred  the  remainder  of  the  population  of 
Naxos  to  Tauromeniumfcomp.  p.  299).  Timoleon,  who  landed  on  the  rocks 
below  the  town,  was  warmly  supported  by  the  inhabitants,  but  after  his  death 
dissensions  arose.  The  town  then  joined  the  Carthaginians  against  Agathocles, 
for  which  it  was  afterwards  chastised  by  the  tyrant.  After  his  death  the  town 
came  into  the  power  of  Tyndarion,  who  invited  Pyrrhus  to  Sicily  and 
induced  him  to  land  near  Tauromenium  (278).   When  the  Romans  concluded 


to  Catania.  TAORMINA.  37.  Route.     297 

a  peace  with  Hiero  II.  of  Syracuse,  the  town  came  into  their  possession 
and  enjoyed  a  long  period  of  tranquillity.  A  number  of  the  slaves  estab- 
lished themselves  here  during  the  First  Servile  War,  and  offered  a  long  and 
obstinate  resistance.  As  the  town,  being  an  ally  of  Rome,  had  declared  in 
favour  of  Sextus  Pompeius  and  thus  occasioned  great  embarrassment  to 
Octavian,  it  afterwards  experienced  the  effects  of  his  wrath,  and  was  peopled 
by  a  new  colony.  In  the  time  of  Strabo  it  was  a  place  of  considerable 
importance.  Its  strong  position  long  enabled  the  inhabitants  to  ward  off 
the  attacks  of  the  Saracens,  who  in  869  besieged  it  unsuccessfully.  But 
on  1st  Aug.,  902,  it  was  taken  by  the  blood-thirsty  Ibrahim-ibn-Ahmed, 
after  the  garrison  had  sallied  forth  and  been  defeated  on  the  coast. 
Mola,  too,  was  captured  by  the  Moors,  the  whole  population  massacred,  and 
the  town  burned.  The  adherents  of  the  Bishop  Procopius,  whose  heart 
the  savage  Ibrahim  was  on  the  point  of  devouring,  were  strangled  and 
burned  on  his  corpse.  The  town,  however,  recovered  from  this  cruel  blow, 
and  Hassan,  the  first  Emir,  was  obliged  to  besiege  and  capture  it  anew 
in  962.  He  then  introduced  a  colony  of  Mussulmen,  and  named  the  town 
Moezzia.  In  1078  it  was  taken  by  the  Normans,  under  whose  supremacy 
it  again  prospered.  Here  in  1410  was  held  the  parliament  which  vainly 
endeavoured  to  find  a  national  sovereign  to  rule  over  Sicily.  Battles  were 
subsequently  fought  here  on  two  different  occasions.  In  1676  the  French 
took  possession  of  Taormina  and  Mola,  but  on  17th  Dec,  1677,  a  party 
of  forty  brave  soldiers  caused  themselves  to  be  hoisted  to  the  summit  of  the 
rocks  of  Mola  by  means  of  ropes  (at  the  point  where  the  path  from  Taor- 
mina skirts  the  base  of  the  cliff),  and  succeeded  in  surprising  and  over- 
powering the  garrison.  Again,  on  2nd  April,  1849,  the  Neapolitans  under 
Filangieri,  'Duke  of  Taormina1,  gained  possession  of  the  town,  which 
was  defended  for  a  few  days  only  by  a  small  body  of  troops  under  Santa 
Rosalia. 

At  the  Porta  di  Catania,  the  W.  entrance  of  the  town,  is  the 
interesting  Palazzo  of  the  Duca  di  S.  Stefano,  with  vaulted  baths, 
borne  by  granite  columns,  dating  from  the  14th  century.  Near  it 
is  the  Badia,  a  picturesque  Gothic  building.  Ascending  the  main 
street  (Corso  Principe  Umberto)  nearly  to  the  other  end  of  the  town, 
we  reach  the  Largo  del  Foro ,  where  the  Palazzo  Corvaja,  a  hand- 
some medieval  edifice,  is  situated  on  the  left.  Opposite  to  this 
building  the  Strada  di  Giovanni,  to  the  right,  continued  by  the 
Salita  del  Teatro  ,  leads  to  the  celebrated  theatre  ,  which  is  by  far 
the  most  interesting  sight  of  Taormina. 

The  *Theatre  is  situated  420  ft.  above  the  sea  -  level ,  on  a 
height  to  the  E.  of  the  town. 

Francesco  Strazzeri,  the  custodian,  is  on  the  spot  the  whole  day  (1  fr.). 
If  the  visitor  desires  to  see  the  sunrise  from  this  point  he  should  give 
the  custodian  notice  beforehand ,  in  order  that  the  entrance  door  may  be 
left  open  for  him.  —  The  custodian  shows  a  small  Muxeum  containing  a 
torso  of  Bacchus ,  a  head  of  Apollo  from  the  theatre ,  inscriptions,  mosaics, 
sarcophagi,  and  architectural  fragments. 

The  theatre  is  of  Greek  origin  ,  but  was  remodelled  during 
the  Roman  period.  According  to  an  inscription  on  the  road- 
side, it  was  destroyed  by  the  Saracens,  while  in  reality  it  owes 
its  ruin  to  the  Duca  di  S.  Stefano ,  who  employed  its  marble 
ornaments  in  decorating  his  palace.  In  1748  it  was  partially 
restored.  It  is  hewn  in  the  rock  in  a  semioircular  form,  and 
is  bounded  at  the  upper  end,  and  on  two  sides  only,  by  Roman 
masonry.  The  greatest  diameter  is  357  ft.,  that  of  the  orchestra 
about  126  ft.   The  stage,  next  to  that  of  Aspendus  in  Pamphylia, 


298      Route  37.  TAORMINA.  From  Messina 

is  the  best-preserved  in  existence.  In  the  posterior  wall  are 
observed  the  three  doors  of  the  stage,  in  each  space  between 
which  are  three  niches,  and  on  each  side  a  niche  for  a  statue. 
The  stage  itself  is  narrow,  as  in  Greek  theatres,  where  the 
orchestra  occupied  the  greater  space.  The  exact  position  of 
the  'thymela'  (or  raised  platform  for  the  choir)  cannot  now  be 
determined.  Beneath  the  stage  is  situated  a  vaulted  channel  for 
water.  The  precise  object  of  the  apertures  in  the  proscenium  is 
unknown,  but  they  were  probably  connected  with  the  machinery 
of  the  theatre.  Festal  processions  advanced  to  the  stage  from  the 
vaulted  halls  on  each  side.  The  adjoining  smaller  apartments 
were  probably  used  as  dressing-rooms.  The  seats  for  spectators 
were  divided  into  nine  cunei.  The  thirty-four  niches  on  the 
upper  praecinctiones  were  probably  occupied  by  sounding-boards. 
Corresponding  with  the  remains  of  the  forty-five  columns  are 
forty-five  pilasters  along  the  central  wall.  Above  these  arches 
the  women  are  believed  to  have  sat ,  after  the  custom  of  separ- 
ating the  sexes  had  been  introduced  by  Csesar.  The  build- 
ing has  been  constructed  with  such  acoustic  success ,  that 
every  word  spoken  on  the  stage  is  distinctly  audible  at  the  farther 
extremity. 

The  **View  from  the  hill  on  which  the  theatre  stands  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  in  Italy.  We  first  take  up  our  position  on  the 
steps  in  front  of  the  custodian's  hut  on  the  top.  On  the  right, 
immediately  below  us  ,  lies  the  well-preserved  theatre,  and  to  the 
left  rises  the  gigantic  pyramid  of  jEtna.  To  the  left  in  the  fore- 
ground, in  the  valley  of  the  Cantara  ,  are  the  mountains  of  Oasti- 
glione,  and  then  the  hills  and  rocky  peaks  beyond  the  theatre  :  from 
left  to  right  we  first  observe  La  Maestra,  S.  Maria  della  Rocca  (the 
hermitage),  the  castle  of  Taormina,  and  beyond  it  the  overhanging 
hill  of  Moia  and  the  still  higher  Monte  Venere  or  Venerella ;  at  the 
point  where  the  latter  slopes  down  towards  the  N.  is  seen  the  rocky 
peak  of  Lapa,  and  then,  nearer  us,  to  the  left,  beyond  the  fiumara, 
the  precipitous  M.  Zirreto  with  its  marble  quarries.  The  view  is 
even  more  beautiful  in  the  morning ,  when  the  sun  rises  above 
Calabria  or  from  the  sea ,  imparts  a  rosy  hue  to  the  snowy  peak  of 
Mt.  ./Etna ,  and  then  gilds  the  rocky  heights  beyond  the  theatre. 
Those  who  make  a  prolonged  stay  at  Taormina  will  have  an  oppor- 
tunity of  observing  some  marvellous  effects  of  light  and  shade. 

Adjoining  the  piazza  by  the  N.  entrance  to  the  town  is  a  so- 
called  Roman  Naumachia,  probably  once  a  bath-establishment.  The 
remains  are  in  the  Giardino  del  Capitolo  (entered  from  the  Strada 
Naumachia).  Of  five  Roman  reservoirs  one  only  (Lo  Stagnone), 
under  the  castle-hill,  is  in  good  preservation. 

The  following  walk  is  recommended.  Through  the  Porta  di 
Messina  to  the  church  of  »9.  I'lincnizio,  the  cella  of  a  Greek 
temple    (prostylos) ,     which    was    once     supposed    to     be     that    of 


to  Catania.  GIARRE.  37.  Route.     299 

Apollo  Archegetes.  Then  follow  the  road ,  passing  some  Roman 
tombs  (turn  to  the  right  after  5  min.),  to  the  church  of  S.  Pietro 
e  Paolo,  near  which  there  is  an  extensive  necropolis.  The  stairs 
adjoining  the  church  lead  to  the  Exconvento  of  the  Frati  Osser- 
vanti,  from  which  the  town  is  regained  by  a  footpath. 

Another  beautiful  walk  is  to  Mola  (1  hr.,  guide  unnecessary j. 
Within  the  Porta  di  Messina  we  turn  to  the  left  towards  the  foun- 
tain, pass  to  the  right  of  it,  and  follow  the  water-conduit;  then,  130 
paces  from  the  fountain,  we  pass  to  the  left  under  the  conduit  and 
follow  the  road.  Mola  (osteria  by  the  Matrichiesa)  ,  which  lies 
2080  ft.  above  the  sea-level ,  commands  an  imposing  view ,  the 
finest  point  being  the  ruined  castle  (key  obtained  for  a  trilling 
gratuity).  In  returning  we  follow  the  crest  of  the  hill,  which  to 
the  right  descends  to  the  Fiumara  della  Decima  and  to  the  left 
to  the  Torrente  di  Fontana  Vecchia,  and  ascend  to  the  back  of 
the  castle  of  Taormina.  Under  the  almond-trees  is  the  entrance 
to  the  castle,  whence  another  admirable  view  is  obtained.  We 
may  then  descend  to  the  S.E.  between  the  mountain  and  the 
hermitage  (Madonna  della  Rocca)  by  a  winding  path  which  ter- 
minates near  the  Albergo  Humboldt. 

A  view  is  also  obtained  from  the  castle  of  the  site  of  Naxos,  the 
earliest  Greek  colony  in  Sicily,  founded  by  Theocles  in  B.C.  735.  It  is  now 
occupied  by  a  lemon-plantation,  situated  between  the  influx  of  the  Cantara 
and  the  bay  on  which  Giardini  lies.  The  altar  of  Apollo  Archegetes,  the 
tutelary  god  of  the  colonists  ,  on  which  the  ambassadors  of  the  Sicilian 
Greeks  were  wont  to  offer  sacrifices  before  starting  for  the  Hellenic  festal 
assemblies,  stood  between  the  river  and  Taormina.  Naxos  was  subjugated 
by  Hiero  I.  of  Syracuse  in  476,  but  soon  regained  its  liberty  and  espoused 
the  cause  of  Athens,  whose  general  Nicias  wintered  in  the  town  in  415-14. 
It  was  destroyed  by  Dionysius  in  403. 


Continuation  op  Journby  to  Catania.  Beyond  Giardini  the 
railway  traverses  the  lava-streams  of  ^Etna.  On  the  most  northern 
of  these  stands  the  so-called  Castello  di  Schisb,  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Naxos.  The  train  crosses  the  Cantara,  the  ancient  Acesines 
or  Onobalas.  Cantara  is  an  Arabic  word  signifying  a  bridge.  The 
.Sicilians  name  the  river  and  the  bridge  by  which  the  high  road 
crosses  it  after  the  town  of  (32^2  M.)  Calatabiano,  situated  to 
the  right.  This  district  is  rendered  unhealthy  by  malaria.  The 
lava-stream  which  descended  by  the  Fiume  Freddo,  between  this 
point  and  the  Ponte  della  Disgrazia,  prevented  the  Carthaginian 
general  Himilco  from  proceeding  direct  to  Syracuse  after  the  de- 
struction of  Messana ,  and  compelled  him  to  march  round  the 
mountain  to  the  N.  (B.C.  396).  Here,  too,  the  road  now  di- 
verges which  leads  to  Catania  by  Randazzo  and  Adernb  (see 
p.  301).  35y2  M.  Piedimonte  ,  a  town  y2  M.  from  the  railway. 
The  train  next  traverses  the  fertile  district  of  Mascali  and  Oiarre, 
and  reaches  (40'/.2  M. )   Giarre-Riposto. 

Giarre  (Locanda  della  Pace,  tolerable),  to  the  right,  '^  M.  from 
the  station,  is  a  town  with   17,400  inhab.  ,  while  Riposto  (.Sero- 


300      Route  37.  ACI-KEALE.  From  Messina 

firm's  inn,  tolerable)  lies  to  the  left,  on  the  coast.  Above  the 
village  of  S.  Alfio,  4^2  M.  above  Giarre  on  the  slopes  of  yEtna,  are 
the  remains  of  the  gigantic  chestnut-tree  di  Cento  Cavalli,  near 
which  several  other  remarkable  trees  of  great  age  are  still  flour- 
ishing. The  craters  which  were  in  activity  in  1865  and  1874  may 
be  reached  from  Giarre  in  5  hrs.,  unless  the  traveller  prefer  the 
easier  ascent  from  Linguaglossa  (p.  301).  From  Giarre,  or  still 
better  from  the  sea,  a  survey  is  obtained  of  the  ravine  of  the 
Val  di  Bove  (p.  312),  which  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the 
principal  crater,  on  the  8.  by  the  Serra  del  Solfizio,  and  on  the 
N.   by  the  Serra  delle  Concazze. 

46  M.  Mangano.  The  train  crosses  several  lava-beds.  Fine 
view  of  /Etna  and  the  sea. 

50]/2  M.  Aci-Reale.  Sicil.  Jaei  (*6rand'  Albergo  dei  Bagni,  a 
large  new  hotel,  with  view  of  the  sea  and  pleasant  grounds,  pension 
10-15  fr.),  a  wealthy  country-town  with  24,000  (with  the  sur- 
rounding villages  35,800)  inhab. ,  has  been  almost  entirely  re- 
erected  since  the  earth-quake  of  1693,  and  stands  on  several  differ- 
ent lava-streams,  560  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  climate  here  is  con- 
sidered so  healthy  that  the  place  is  often  preferred  to  Catania  for  a 
prolonged  stay ;  and  a  large  bath-house  has  recently  been  erected 
for  patients  using  the  mineral  water,  which  is  strongly  impregnated 
with  sulphur.  Baron  Pasquale  Pennisi  possesses  an  admirable  col- 
lection of  Sicilian  coins,  which  ,  however,  is  not  shown  without  a 
special  introduction.  The  environs  are  replete  with  geological  inter- 
est. The  myths  of  Acis,  Galatea,  and  the  giant  Polyphemus  are 
associated  with  this  locality.  The  Acis,  mentioned  by  Theocritus 
and  Ovid  (Metamorph.  xiii)  here  empties  itself  into  the  sea,  to 
which  a  precipitous  path  (la  Scalazza)  descends. 

The  train  approaches  the  sea.  Near  Aci  Castello,  we  perceive 
on  the  left  the  seven  Scogli  de'  Ciclopi,  or  Faraglioni,  the  rocks 
which  the  blinded  Polyphemus  hurled  after  the  crafty  Ulysses.  To 
the  S.  of  the  Isola  d'Aci,  the  largest  of  the  islands,  rises  the  most 
picturesque  of  these  rocks,  about  200  ft.  in  height  and  2000  ft.  in 
circumference.  It  consists  of  columnar  basalt,  in  which  beautiful 
crystals  are  found,  and  is  covered  with  a  hard  stratum  of  limestone 
containing  numerous  fossil  shells.  The  coast  here  is  lofty,  and 
has  risen  40  ft.  within  the  last  few  centuries.  Near  these  cliffs 
Mago,  although  cut  off  from  the  land  army  under  Himilco,  defeated 
the  Syracusan  fleet  under  Leptines  in  396. 

55>/2  M.  Aci  Castello,  with  a  picturesque  ruined  castle,  in 
which  the  adherents  of  Roger  Loria  defended  themselves  in  1297 
against  Frederick  II.  and  Artale  Aragona.  The  train  then  skirts 
the  bay  of  L'Ongnina,  which  is  supposed  to  be  identical  with  the 
Partus  Ulyssis,  described  by  Virgil  (/En.  iii.  570),  and  filled  by  a 
lava-stream  in  the  15th  cent.   On  the  right  we  at  length  perceive  — 

591/2  M-  Catania,   see  p.  302. 


to  Catania.  RANDAZZO.  37.  Route.      301 


From  Taormina  to  Catania  by  Aderno. 

This  route  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Sicily,  and  is  especially  re- 
commended to  those  who  have  received  their  first  impression  of  ..Etna  from 
the  E.  side.  Distance  about  62!|2M.,  reckoned  from  the  Bivio  Minissale  where 
the  main  road  is  quitted.  From  Taormina  to  Giardini  2  M.,  to  Minis- 
sale  (Ponte  della  Disgrazia)  5l|2,  to  Piedimonte  3,  to  Linguaglossa  4,  to  Ran- 
dazzo  10  M.,  where  the  night  is  passed  (in  all  241J2  M.).  Thence  to  Bronte 
10,  to  Aderno  11  M.  It  is,  however,  preferable  to  proceed  to  Piedimonte 
by  railway.  Or  the  Talley  of  the  Cantara  may  be  ascended  on  horseback, 
by  a  road  not  yet  practicable  for  carriages,  as  far  as  Francavilla,  whence 
Randazzo  is  reached  via  Mojo ;  distance  also  24'|2  M. 

The  road  from  Giardini  (p.  295)  to  Aderno  (p.  269)  is  the  old 
military  route  from  Palermo  to  Messina,  which  was  traversed  by 
Himilco  in  396,  by  Timoleon  in  344,  and  by  Charles  V.  in  1534. 
It  leads  by  Piedimonte  and  Linguaglossa.  To  the  right  of  the  latter 
is  Castiglione,  which  yields  the  best  Sicilian  hazel-nuts.  The  road 
to  Randazzo  intersects  extensive  nut-plantations,  A  little  beyond 
Linguaglossa  we  obtain  a  more  uninterrupted  view  of  the  valley 
of  the  Cantara  and  the  chain  of  the  lofty  Nebrode,  at  the  point 
where  the  mountains  of  Castiglione  are  lost  to  view.  Near  the 
hamlet  of  Malvagna,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Cantara,  stands  a 
small  Byzantine  church,  the  only  one  in  Sicily  which  has  survived 
the  Saracenic  period,  an  interesting  object  to  architects.  In  the 
vicinity  probably  lay  the  town  of  Tissa  mentioned  by  Cicero. 
The  neighbouring  village  of  Mojo  lies  near  the  northernmost 
crater  of  the  yEtna  region. 

Randazzo  (Locanda,  indifferent),  with  7900  inhab.,  a  town 
of  very  mediaeval  appearance,  founded  by  a  Lombard  colony,  was 
surnamed  Etnea  by  the  Emp.  Frederick  II.,  being  the  nearest  town 
to  the  crater  of  the  volcano  (11  M.),  and  yet  having  escaped 
destruction.  Frederick  conferred  the  title  of  Duke  of  Randazzo 
on  one  of  his  sons,  which  contributed  so  much  to  the  prosperity 
of  the  town  that  in  the  middle  ages  it  was  called  'the  populous'. 

The  church  of  S.  Maria,  on  the  right  side  of  the  street,  dates 
from  the  13th  cent,  (choir),  the  lateral  walls  from  the  14th ; 
the  campanile  has  been  added  to  the  original  tower  during  the 
present  century.  An  inscription  mentions  Petrus  Tignoso  as 
the  first  architect.  The  houses  present  many  interesting  speci- 
mens of  mediaeval  architecture  ,  such  as  the  Palazzo  Finochiaro 
with  an  inscription  in  barbarous  Latin ,  the  mansion  of  the 
Barone  Fesauli,  and  the  Town  Hall  in  which  Charles  V.  once 
spent  a  night.  From  the  old  Ducal  Palace,  now  a  prison,  still 
protrude  the  spikes  on  which  the  heads  of  criminals  were  exposed. 
A  handsome  mediaeval  vaulted  passage  leads  from  the  main  street 
to  the  church  of  S.  Niccolb ,  which  is  constructed  of  alternate 
courses  of  black  and  white  stone. 

Randazzo  lies  2536  ft.  above  the  sea-level;  the  road  to  Pironte, 
however,   still  ascends,  at  first  through  a  forest  of  oaks  with  ivy- 


H02      Route  37.  BRONTE. 

clad  trunks.  Agriculture  here  assumes  a  more  northern  character. 
Before  the  path  to  the  small  town  of  Maletto  diverges,  we  reach 
the  culminating  point  between  the  Cantara  and  Simeto  (3812  ft.). 
The  torrents  in  spring  form  the  small  lake  Gurrita  in  the  valley 
to  the  right,  the  exhalations  from  which  poison  the  atmosphere 
in  summer. 

To  the  right  in  a  valley  below  Maletto  lies  the  suppressed  Benedictine  mon- 
astery of  Maniacium.  Here  in  the  spring  of  1040  the  Greek  general  Maniaces, 
aided  by  Norwegians  (commanded  by  Harald  Hardradr,  afterwards  king) 
and  Normans,  defeated  a  large  army  of  Saracens.  Margaret,  mother  of 
William  II.,  founded  the  monastery  in  1174,  and  William  Blesensis,  brother 
of  the  celebrated  Pierre  de  Blois,  became  the  first  abbot.  Ferdinand  IV. 
presented  the  whole  estate  to  Nelson  in  1799,  and  created  him  Duke  of 
Bronte  (a  town  which  is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  Ppoviocv,  to  thun- 
der). The  steward  (Mr.  S.  Grisley ,  an  introduction  to  whom  is  desir- 
able) of  General  Viscount  Bridport ,  the  present  proprietor ,  resides  at 
Maniace,  where  the  handsome  vaulted  gateways  are  objects  of  interest. 
The  estates  now  yield  an  average  income  of  75,000  fr.  per  annum. 

The  high  mountain-ranges  to  the  right,  which  are  covered  with 
snow  in  spring,  and  the  far  more  lofty  'Pillar  of  Heaven ', 
'Nourisher  of  the  Snow',  as  Pindar  calls  ^Etna,  to  the  left,  invest 
the  scenery  with  an  almost  Alpine  character.  In  1651  a  vast 
lava-stream  descended  into  the  valley  close  to  Bronte. 

Bronte  (2605  ft.  ;  Locanda  dei  Fratelli  Cesare;  Real  Col- 
leyio;  both  tolerable),  with  14, 600  inhab. ,  has  been  erected  since 
the  time  of  Charles  V.  The  road  thence  to  Aderno  traverses  barren 
beds  of  lava,  crossing  the  stream  of  1843  (2  M.  from  Bronte),  and 
those  of  1727,  1763,  1603,  1787,  and  1610.  The  craters  visible 
before  us  are  (reckoned  from  the  summit  of  jEtna  downwards 
towards  the  W.)  the  Monti  Lepre,  Rovolo,  and  Minardo.  The  com- 
munes of  Aderno  and  Bronte  possess  a  beautiful  forest  here,  the 
boundary  of  which  is  formed  by  Mte.  Minardo.  The  highest 
mountain  to  the  right,  towards  the  N.,  is  Monte  Cuttb;  the  Serra 
della  Spina  belongs  to  the  Nelson  estate.  The  Foresta  di  Traina 
is  also  called  Monte  Cunano. 

From  Aderno  to  Catania,   see  pp.  269,  270. 


38.     Catania. 

Arrival.  By  Railway.  The  station  lies  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town  ;  omni- 
buses from  the  two  principal  hotels  1  fr. ;  cab  with  one  horse ,  including 
luggage,  70  c.  ,  with  two  horses  1  fr.  20;  after  Ave  Maria  80  c.  or  1  fr. 
80  c.  :  after  midnight  double  fares.  —  By  Steamer.  Landing  (or  embar- 
cation)  >|2  fr.,  with  luggage  1  fr.  each  person.  The  luggage  of  travellers 
arriving  from  the  free  harbour  of  Messina  is  slightly  examined. 

Hotels.  "Grand'  Albergo  di  Catania  ,  near  the  station ,  R.  3>|2-4, 
B.  l'/2,  I>.  5,  L.  and  A.  2  fr.,  pension  10  fr.  and  upwards.  Hotel  Central, 
in  the  Strada  Stesicorea,  opposite  the  University,  in  the  middle  of  the  town, 
commercial,  E.  2'|2,  D.  4,  L.  and  A.  1  fr.  30  c.  —  Unpretending  second- 
class  inns :  Vittoria  ,  with  trattoria,  in  the  Piazza  del  Duomo ;  Orient, 
Rome,  Malta,  etc.,  R.  V/---2  fr.  —  Furnished  Apartments  are  advertised  in 
many  streets. 

Trattorie.    Villa  Nuova,  to  the  right  in  the  passage  from  the  Piazza  del 


CATANIA.  38.  Route.      303 

Duomo  to  the  Marina;  Cypcricone ,  Strada  Lincoln.  —  "Cafi  di  Siciiia, 
Piazza  del  Duomo. 

Beading  Room ,  with  Italian  and  a  few  French  newspapers ,  Palazzo 
rtella  Prefettura,  Str.  Stesicorea,  on  the  left  when  approached  from  the 
university;  strangers  admitted  gratis. 

Post  Office  in  the  Piazza  of  the  university.  —  Telegraph  Office,  Piazza 
del  Duomo. 

Bank:  Banca  di  Depositi  e  Sconti. 

Railway  to  Messina ,  four  trains  daily ;  to  Syracuse  two ;  to  S.  Cate- 
i-ina  (Palermo,  Girgenti)  three.  —  Diligence  twice  daily  to  Paternb  and 
Adernb,  starting  from  the  'Rilievo\  a  side-street  of  the  Str.  Garibaldi ; 
a  post-conveyance  also  runs  to  these  places  daily,  except  Fridays,  at  2 
p.  m. ;  another  to  Caltagirone  (p.  270)  daily ,  except  Wednesdays ,  at  5 
a.m.  —  Steamboat  three  times  a  week  to  Messina;  once  a  week  (Mondays) 
to  Syracuse  and  Malta. 

The  Silk  Stuffs  of  Catania  are  good  and  durable. 

Catania  is  a  favourite  winter  resort  of  invalids.  The  mean  tempe- 
rature is  9°  higher  than  that  of  Palermo,  but  this  is  partly  caused  by  the 
greater  heat  of  summer.  In  winter ,  when  the  wind  is  in  the  N.E. ,  the 
cold  is  sometimes  very  trying.  There  is  a  great  lack  of  walks  and  of 
gardens  for  sitting  in  the  open  air. 

The  town  is  not  attractive  to  tourists.  Most  of  the  antiquities  are 
uninteresting,  and  the  extensive  theatre  is  so  deeply  buried  in  the  lava 
that  it  is  completely  eclipsed  by  the  noble  similar  structures  at  Taormina 
and  Syracuse.  The  med^val  buildings  of  Catania  are  also  unimportant. 
The  chief  attraction  is  the  survey  of  iEtna ,  the  finest  points  of  view 
being  the  Benedictine  monastery  and  the  Villa  Bellini.  —  The  festivals 
of  St.  Agatha,  the  tutelary  saint  of  the  town,  are  celebrated  with  great 
pomp  on  3rd-5th  Feb.  and  18th-21st  Aug. ,  vying  in  splendour  with  those 
of  St.  Rosalia  at  Palermo. 

Catania  (Kdzava),  -which  after  Palermo  is  the  most  populous 
city  in  the  island  (83,496  inhab. ;  or  with  the  suburbs  84,397, 
i.  e.  less  than  Messina),  is  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  an  appeal  court, 
and  a  university ,  founded  in  1445 ,  but  now  unimportant.  It 
is  situated  about  the  middle  of  the  E.  coast ,  on  a  bay  of  the 
Ionian  Sea,  but  does  not  possess  a  very  good  harbour.  The  town 
carries  on  a  brisk  trade  in  sulphur ,  cotton ,  wine ,  grain .  lin- 
seed, almonds,  and  the  other  products  of  this  rich  and  extremely 
fertile  district.  The  wealth  of  the  citizens,  and  especially  of  the 
landed  nobility  resident  in  the  town,  is  proved  by  their  per- 
severance, notwithstanding  the  disasters  caused  by  numerous  earth- 
quakes ,  in  rebuilding  their  spacious  palaces ,  and  by  the  gene- 
ral appearance  of  the  town ,  which  is  in  many  respects  the 
cleanest    and  pleasantest  in  Sicily. 

Catana,  founded  by  Chalcidians  under  the  leadership  of  the  Athenian 
Tlieocles  in  730,  five  years  after  they  had  founded  Naxos,  soon  rose  to 
prosperity.  Shortly  after  Zaleucus  had  promulgated  the  first  Hellenic  code 
of  laws  among  the  Locri  Epizephyrii,  Charondas  framed  a  code  for  Catana, 
which  was  subsequently  recognised  as  binding  by  all  the  Sicilian  commu- 
nities of  Ionian  and  Chalcidian  extraction.  Tisias,  surnamed  Stesichorus  on 
account  of  his  merits  in  perfecting  the  chorus  of  the  Greek  drama,  born  at 
Himera  on  the  N.  coast  of  the  island  about  the  year  630,  closed  his  career 
at  Catana  at  an  advanced  age.  His  tomb  is  said  to  have  been  within  the 
precincts  of  the  present  Piazza  Stesicorea.  Catana  suffered  greatly  in  the 
w>«  of  the  Doric  colonies  against  the  Chalcidians.  Hiero  I.  took  the  town 
in  17G  and  transplanted  the  inhabitants  to  Syracuse  and  Leontini,  among 
whom  was  the  celebrated  Eleatic  philosopher  Xenophanes,  re-populating  it 
with  Syracusans  and  Peloponnesians,  and  changing  its  name  to  JEtna.     In 


304      Route  38.  CATANIA.  Cathedral. 

461,  however,  the  new  intruders  were  expelled,  and  in  the  Athenian  and 
Syracusan  war  Catana  became  the  Athenian  head-quarters.  In  consequence 
of  this,  Dionysius  again  destroyed  the  town  in  403,  and  founded  a  new 
Jitna  near  it ,  which  he  peopled  with  Campanian  mercenaries.  After  the 
naval  victory  of  the  Cyclopian  islands  in  396  Catana  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Carthaginians,  and  in  339  was  delivered  by  Timoleon  from  the  tyrant 
Mainenus.  It  was  one  of  the  first  Sicilian  towns  of  which  the  Romans 
took  possession,  and  under  their  sway  became  one  of  the  most  populous 
in  the  island.  Marcellus  undertook  extensive  improvements,  hut  the  town 
sustained  great  damage  during  the  Servile  wars  and  the  civil  war  between 
Xi'.rtm  Pompeiux  and  Octavian.  The  latter  afterwards  introduced  a  new 
colony.  During  the  early  part  of  the  middle  ages  Catania  was  a  place 
of  subordinate  importance.  It  was  wrested  from  the  Goths  by  Belisarius, 
plundered  by  the  Saracens,  conquered  and  strongly  fortified  by  the  Nor- 
mans, but  in  1169  almost  totally  overthrown  by  an  earthquake.  Towards 
the  close  of  that  century  it  declared  in  favour  of  King  Tancred,  and  was 
in  consequence  taken  by  the  troops  of  Henry  VI.  under  Henry  of  Kallenthin 
and  razed  to  the  ground.  Again  restored,  and  in  1232  provided  by  Fre- 
derick II.  with  the  fortress  of  Rocca  Orsina  (W.  of  the  harbour),  it  sub- 
sequently nourished  under  the  Arragonese  sovereigns  of  the  14th  cent,  who 
generally  resided  here,  but  owing  to  the  feebleness  of  the  government  was 
exposed  to  numerous  sieges.  In  1444  Alphonso  founded  the  first  Sicilian 
university  here,  and  after  that  date  Catania  was  long  regarded  as  the  literary 
metropolis  of  the  island.  Besides  the  insignificant  contests  of  modern  times 
(April  1849,  May  1860),  the  town  has  been  the  scene  of  the  most  calamitous 
natural  phenomena,  which  have  materially  retarded  its  progress.  On 
8th  March,  1669,  a  fearful  eruption  of  Mt.  ..Etna  took  place ;  the  Monti  Rossi 
were  upheaved,  and  an  arm  of  the  lava-stream  (14  M.  in  length  and  25  ft. 
i,i  width)  flowed  in  the  direction  of  the  town.  The  pious  inhabitants, 
however,  succeeded  in  averting  its  course  by  extending  the  veil  of  St. 
Agatha  towards  it,  in  consequence  of  which  the  stream  took  a  W.  direction 
near  the  Benedictine  monastery  and  descended  into  the  sea  to  the  S.W. 
of  the  town,  partially  filling  up  the  harbour.  An  earthquake  in  1693,  by 
which  the  whole  island  was  affected ,  proved  especially  destructive  to 
Catania,  and  the  present  town  has  been  erected  since  that  date. 

The  topography  of  Catania  is  easily  mastered  (comp.  Plan, 
p.  306).  Starting  from  the  quay,  the  main  street  leads  in  a  straight 
line  in  the  direction  of  Mtna,.  The  lower  half  of  it  is  called  the 
Strada  Stesicorea,  the  upper  half  the  Strada  Etnea,  and  it  is  inter- 
sected nearly  at  a  right  angle  by  the  Corso  and  the  Strada  Lincoln 
(formerly  de'  Quattro  Cantoni),  two  other  important  streets. 

Leaving  the  Railway  Station  ,  and  before  entering  the  town, 
we  follow  the  street  to  the  left,  leading  to  the  (}/t  M.)  Piazza  de 
Martiri ,  which  is  indicated  in  the  plan  by  its  old  name  of  Largo 
della  Statua ,  derived  from  a  statue  of  St.  Agatha  on  an  ancient 
column. 

The  Coeso  ,  starting  from  this  point ,  intersects  the  town  to  its 
opposite  end,  upwards  of  1  M.  distant.  In  8  min.  it  leads  to  the 
Piazza  dkl  Duomo  ,  which  is  embellished  with  a  fountain  with  an 
antique  Elephant  of  lava ,  bearing  an  Egyptian  obelisk  of  granite. 
The  Elephant  was  perhaps  anciently  used  as  a  meta  in  a  race-course, 
but  when  it  was  erected  here  is  uncertain. 

The  Cathedral  (PI.  1),  begun  by  Roger  I.  in  1091,  was 
almost  entirely  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  ll(i9.  The  apses 
and  part  of  the  E.  transept  are  now  the  only  remains  of  the 
original  edifice.    The  granite  columns  of  the  facade  are  from  the 


Theatre. 


CATANIA.  38.  Route.      305 


ancient  theatre  ,  from  which  indeed  King  Roger  seems  to  have  ob- 
tained the  whole  of  his  building  materials. 

Around  the  high-altar  are  placed  sarcophagi  of  the  Arragonese  sover- 
eigns. On  the  right,  Frederick  II.  (d.  1337)  and  his  son  John  of  Randazzo  ; 
King  Louis  (d.  1355);  Frederick  III.  (d.  1377);  Queen  Maria,  wife  of  Mar- 
tin I.,  and  their  youthful  son  Frederick.  On  the  left,  the  monument  of 
Queen  Constance,  wife  of  Frederick  III.  (d.  1363).  The  chapel  of  St. 
Agatha,  to  the  right  in  the  apse,  contains  the  relics  of  the  saint,  who 
was  cruelly  put  to  death  in  the  reign  of  Decius ,  A.D.  252,  by  the  praetor 
Quintianus,  whose  dishonourable  overtures  she  had  rejected.  Her  crown 
is  said  to  have  been  presented  by  Richard  Cceur  de  Lion.  The  silver 
sarcophagus  is  conveyed  through  the  city  during  the  February  festival 
by  men  in  white  robes,  accompanied  by  the  senate.  The  women  on  these 
occasions  cover  their  faces  so  as  to  leave  but  one  eye  visible,  and  amuse 
themselves  by  coquetting  with  the  male  population.  The  Sacristy  (left) 
contains  a  fresco  representing  the  eruption  of  1669,  by  Mignemi.  —  Vine. 
Bellini  (p.  226)  was  buried  in  the  cathedral  in  Sept.  1876. 

The  sacristan  of  the  cathedral  keeps  the  key  of  the  unattractive 
Roman  Baths  under  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  the  entrance  to  which  adjoins 
the  cathedral  colonnade. 

Passing  in  front  of  the  cathedral,  we  now  descend  to  the  Largo 
delta  Marina  on  the  quay,  which  is  skirted  by  the  railway  viaduct. 
A  small  public  garden  here  is  adorned  with  a  bust  of  G.  Pacini,  the 
composer  of  operas,  who  was  born  at  Catania  in  1796. 

From  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  runs  the  Strada 
Garibaldi,  which  leads  towards  the  W.  ,  parallel  with  the  Corso, 
and  is  joined  at  the  Porta  Fortino  by  the  roads  from  Syracuse  and 
the  interior  of  the  island. 

Following  the  Corso  for  a  few  paces  beyond  the  Piazza  del 
Duomo,  and  ascending  the  Largo  S.  Francesco  to  the  right,  we 
enter  the  Strada  Filippixa  ,  the  first  cross-street  to  the  left. 
No.  21  in  this  street  is  the  entrance  to  the  ancient  theatre.  (Cus- 
todian, Gius.  Carofratello,  who  shows  plans  of  the  building^  1  fr. ; 
he  also  conducts  visitors  to  the  other  sights  of  the  town,  2  fr.) 

The  remains  of  this  Graeco-Roman  Theatre  (PI.  6)  are  chiefly 
underground,  and  some  parts  of  it  can  only  be  visited  by  torch- 
light, so  that  it  is  not  easy  to  obtain  a  distinct  idea  of  its  plan. 
The  Roman  structure  (diameter  106  yds. ,  orchestra  31  yds.)  was 
erected  on  the  foundations  of  the  Greek.  It  contained  two  prae- 
cinctiones  and  nine  cunei.  It  was  perhaps  here  that  Alcibiades 
harangued  the  assembled  Catanians  in  415.  —  The  adjacent 
Odeum,  44  yds.  in  diameter,  which  is  entirely  of  Roman  origin, 
but  was  afterwards  much  altered ,  was  probably  used  for  the 
rehearsals    of  the  players  and  for  musical  performances. 

Most  nf  the  ruins  discovered  at  Catania  were  excavated  during  the 
last  century  by  Prince  Ignazio  Biscari ,  who  formed  the  Biscari  Museum, 
in  the  Palazzo  Biscari  on  the  quay,  with  the  antiquities  found  here 
and  elsewhere.  The  collection  consists  of  vases,  small  bronzes,  marble 
statues,  reliefs,  etc. ;  but  it  has  been  closed  since  the  death  of  the  founder 
and  is  to  be  sold. 

Following  the  Strada  Filippina  a  little  farther,  and  turning  to 
the  right,  we  come  to  the  suppressed  Benedictine  monastery  of  S. 
Baedeker.    Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  20 


306      Route  38.  CATANIA.  8.  Benedetto. 

Nicola,  or  S.  Benedetto  (PI.  2).  This  religious  house ,  which  covers 
an  area  of  100,000  sq.  yds.,  is  said  once  to  have  been  the  most 
imposing  in  Europe  after  that  of  Mafra  in  Portugal.  The  Church 
with  its  unfinished  facade  is  the  largest  in  Sicily.  The  organ ,  by 
Donato  del  Piano,  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe,  possesses  5  key- 
boards, 72  stops,  and  2916  pipes.  The  monastery  was  formerly 
situated  at  S.  Nicola  d' Arena,  near  Nicolosi,  but  was  transferred 
to  its  present  site  in  1518.  In  1669  the  lava-stream  turned  aside 
here,  but  in  1693  the  monastery  was  destroyed  by  the  earthquake. 
The  present  edifice  was  then  erected  and  has  been  inhabited  since 
1735.  All  the  monks  were  members  of  noble  families.  Since  the 
dissolution  of  the  monastery  iii  1866  the  magazines  have  been 
converted  into  barracks,  and  the  other  rooms  have  been  fitted  up 
for  educational  purposes.  We  enter  the  gateway  to  the  left  of  the 
church,  and  cross  the  court  to  a  staircase  leading  to  the  dwelling 
of  the  custodian.  The  monastery  contains  two  large  courts,  and  is 
bisected  by  double  corridors.  The  *garden  at  the  back  commands 
a  magnificent  view  of  jEtna. 

Near  S.  Maria  Rotonda,  (FT.  5)  are  remains  of  ancient  baths. 

Another  curiosity  of  Catania  is  the  river  Amenanus,  which  flows 
under  the  lava  of  1669  and  falls  into  the  harbour.  Visitors  descend 
to  it  from  the  Strada  delle  Botte  d'Acqua(Gambazita),  to  the  N.W. 
of  S.  Benedetto. 

A  Roman  Bath,  complete  in  almost  all  its  parts  ,  lies  under  the  Car- 
melite clmrch  AlP  Indirizzo.  It  consists  of  an  undressing-room  (apody- 
terium) ,  a  fire-room  (hypocaustum) ,  a  tepid  hath  (tepidarhim) ,  a  steam- 
hath  (calidarium),  and  a  warm  hath  (balneum).  —  In  the  neighbourhood 
the  custodian  points  out  an  interesting  fragment  of  the  ancient  town  wall, 
now  partly  covered  by  a  stream  ol'  lava. 

The  Strada  Stesicorea  ,  running  from  the  Piazza  del  Duomo 
in  the  direction  of  yEtna  (N.N. W.J,  leads  first  to  the  Piazza  degli 
Studj,  on  the  left  side  of  which  is  the  University  (PI.  8],  con- 
taining a  valuable  library,  a  natural  history  collection  (Gab.  Gioeni), 
and  several  antiquities.  We  next  reach  the  small  Piazza  Qunttro 
Cantoni,  where  the  Strada  Stesicorea  is  crossed  by  the  Strada  Lin- 
coln, formerly  dei  Quattro  Cantoni,  another  of  the  principal  streets 
running  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  The  Strada  Lincoln,  which  crosses 
the  lava-stream  of  1669  and  leads  to  the  station,  has  recently  been 
levelled  to  meet  the  requirements  of  increasing  traffic,  and  many  of 
the  houses  are  in  consequence  only  accessible  by  means  of  lofty 
flights  of  steps. 

The  Strada  Stesicorea  next  leads  to  the  Piazza  Stesicorea 
(PI.  10),  the  S.W.  part  of  which  was  once  occupied  by  a  Roman 
Amphitheatre  (PI.  7).  This  building,  of  which  there  are  remains 
in  the  Strada  Archebusieri,  was  restored  by  the  sons  of  Constantine, 
but  taken  down  during  the  reign  of  Theodoric  in  order  that  its 
materials  might  be  used  in  building  the  town  wall.  The  longer 
diameter  is  8(1  yds.,  the  shorter  59  yds.  in  length. 

In  the  vicinity  is  the  church  of  8.   Cnrcere  (PI.  3),  with  an  in- 


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MOUNT  .(ETNA.  3.9.  Route.      307 

teresting  Grceco-Norman  *Portal.  The  small  marble  statue  in  a 
sitting  posture  on  the  front  column  on  the  left  is  said  to  be  that  of 
Bmp.  Frederick  II.  In  the  interior  is  preserved  an  impression  of 
the  feet  of  St.  Agatha  in  marble. 

Beyond  this  point  the  Strada  Stesicorea  is  uninteresting.  Near 
the  Piazza  del  Borgo  it  takes  the  name  of  Strada  Etnea.  and  in 
this  part  of  the  street  is  situated  the  Villa  Bellini,  formerly  called 
Al  Labirinto ,  a  public  garden  adorned  with  a  statue  of  Mazzini 
erected  in  1875.  These  pleasant  grounds  command  beautiful 
views.     Concert  on  three  evenings  weekly  in  summer. 

Near  S.  Maria  di  Oesii,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town,  are  remains 
of  Roman  tombs. 

A  pleasant  excursion  mav  be  made  from  Catania  to  the  Cyclopean 
Islands  (p.  300). 


39.    Mount  JEtna. 

The  best  season  for  the  ascent  of  yEtna  is  the  summer  or  autumn 
(July-Sept.).  In  spring  the  snow  is  a  serious  obstacle,  and  in  winter 
the  guides  object  to  undertake  the  ascent.  A  moonlight  night  is  always 
desirable,  and  indeed  indispensable  early  or  late  in  the  season.  As  the 
elements  are  very  capricious  here,  the  traveller  must  frequently  lie  satis- 
fied with  a  view  of  the  crater  only,  which,  however,  alone  repays  the 
fatigue.  In  settled  weather ,  when  the  smoke  ascends  calmly,  and  the 
outline  of  the  mountain  is  clear,  a  line  view  may  with  tolerable  cer- 
tainty be  anticipated.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  smoke  is  driven  aside 
by  the  wind  which  frequently  prevails  on  the  summit,  the  prospect  is 
partially,  if  not  entirely  obscured. 

Even  in  hot  weather  the  traveller  should  not  fail  to  be  provided  with 
an  overcoat  or  plaid,  as  the  wind  on  the  mountain  is  often  bitterly  cold. 
In  winter  or  spring,  when  the  snow  is  still  unmelted,  a  veil  or  coloured 
spectacles  will  be  found  useful. 

Provisions  for  the  ascent  had  better  be  procured  at  Catania.  Those 
who  desire  the  luxury  of  a  cup  of  tea  or  coffee  on  the  mountain  may 
obtain  charcoal  at  Nicolosi  (p.  308). 

Distances.  From  Catania  to  Nicolosi  by  carriage  in  2'|2  hrs.,  returning 
in  l1^  hr.  (on  foot  from  the  Barriera  beyond  Borgo  di  Catania,  to  which 
point  a  carriage  should  be  taken,  in  2'la,  back  in  2  hrs.).  Mule  from 
Xicnlosi  to  the  Casa  del  Bosco  2'|i  hrs.,  thence  to  the  Casa  Inglese 
3'1'i  hrs.  ;  on  foot  from  Xicolosi  (not  advisable)  7-8  hrs.  (halts  not  included). 
From  the  Casa  Inglese  to  the  crater,  on  foot  only,  in  I'^-l1^  hr. ;  halt  on 
the  summit  and  descent  to  the  Casa  Inglese  2-2'j2  hrs.;  thence  to  Nicolosi 
4-5  hrs.  The  excursion  is  therefore  long  and  fatiguing,  and  few  travellers 
will  be  disposed  to  walk  back  to  Catania  on  the  evening  after  the  ascent. 

Carriages.  The  charge  for  a  two  or  three-horse  carriage  to  Xicolosi, 
which  remains  there  during  the  night,  and  conveys  the  traveller  back  to 
Catania  next  day,  is  20-25  fr.,  with  an  additional  gratuity  of  3-5  fr. 
('tutto  compreso').  One-horse  carriage  (not  easily  procured,  as  the  road  is 
rather  steep)  15  fr.  and  2-3  fr.  gratuity.  Those  who  walk  to  ivicolosi  may 
engage  a  carriage  for  the  return  only  (10-15  fr.  and  J -2  fr.  fee).  Mule  to 
Xicolosi  and  back  (remaining  there  during  the  nightl  2-3  fr.,  and  1  fr.  fee. 
(Carriage  of  course  preferable  for  the  return  to  Catania  after  a  fatiguing 
ride  of  10-12   hrs.,  although  the   charges  are  exorbitant.) 

Guides  and  Mules.  A  Section  of  the  Italian  Alpine  Cluli,  by  which 
guides  and  the  various  arrangements  for  the  ascent  of  Jit.  /Etna  are 
superintended  ,    is    now    established   at    Catania.      The    president    is    Prof. 

'20* 


308      Route  3'J.  MOUNT  .ETNA.  Vegetation. 

Balthauscr  of  the  university,  and  the  treasurer  is  Mr.  Angst  of  the  Grand 
Hotel,  from  the  latter  of  whom  information  may  be  procured.  Guide  8  fr., 
and  if  he  has  given  satisfaction,  2  fr.  more  as  a  gratuity.  Mule  10  fr. 
(one  must  also  be  provided  for  the  guide).  Parties  usually  engage  two 
guides  and  an  additional  mule  to  carry  the  provisions  and  overcoats, 
tiny  to  carry  lantern  4  fr.;  charcoal  and  light  for  two  persons  l'|s  fr.  (at 
Nicolosi);  for  the  use  of  the  Casa  del  Bosco  1  fr. ,  for  that  of  the  Casa 
Inglese  2-2l/i  fr. 

Inns  at  Nicolosi.  Locanda  i/Etna,  at  the  entrance  to  the  village,  on 
the  right;  Locanda  di  GusErPE  Mazzaglia,  at  the  beginning  of  the  street 
ascending  to  the  right,  less  pretending,  civil  landlord  (R.  and  B.  2-3, 
D.  3  fr.).     Enquiry  as  to  charges  had  better  be  made  at  both. 

Flan  of  Excursion.  The  most  convenient  way  of  making  the  as- 
cent is  probably  the  following :  —  Start  from  Catania  for  Nicolosi  at 
11  a.  m.  or  noon,  engage  guide  and  make  other  arrangements,  and  devote 
a  couple  of  hours  to  repose,  or  make  an  excursion  to  the  Monti  Rossi 
(2'/2  hrs.).  Start  again  at  4  or  5  p.  m.;  arrive  at  the  Casa  del  Bosco  at 
6  or  7;  see  sunset  and  rest  till  9.  Ascend  to  the  Casa  Inglese,  arriving 
there  about  midnight,  make  fire,  take  refreshment,  and  rest  till  2  or  3 
a.  m.,  according  to  the  season.  Then  start  on  foot  for  the  summit,  and 
there  await  the  sunrise. 

The  guides  should  be  required  to  observe  punctually  the  prescribed 
hours  of  starting,  in  order  that  the  traveller  may  not  have  to  hurry 
during  the  last  part  of  the  ascent.  In  descending,  the  traveller  should 
skirt  the  Val  di  Bove  and  proceed  thence  to  the  Casa  del  Bosco.  Nicolosi 
may  then  easily  be  regained  by  J I  or  12  o1  clock,  and  after  a  little  rest 
and  refreshment  Catania  may  be  reached  in  1 ' J-2-2  hrs.  more.  —  Another 
and  less  fatiguing  mode  of  making  the  excursion,  especially  when  ladies 
are  of  the  party,  is  this :  leave  Catania  early  in  the  morning,  and  Nico- 
losi about  9  a.  m.,  and  reach  the  summit  in  time  to  witness  the  sunset; 
pass  the  night  in  the  Casa  Inglese,  ascend  the  cone  again  in  the  morning 
before  sunrise,  and  return  to  Catania  in  the  evening.  The  charges  in  this 
case  for  guides  and  mules  are  of  course  higher.  The  Casa  Inglese  con- 
tains a  table,  chairs,  straw  beds  for  six  travellers,  and  a  stone  on  which 
a  lire  may  be  lighted.  A  subscription  for  the  maintenance  of  the  casa  is 
expected.     The  hut  is  often  half  tilled  with  snow  (ill  late  in  spring. 

An  excellent  map  of  iEtna.  and  its  environs  was  published  by  Say- 
lorhis  von  Waltershausen  in  1848-59  ('Atlas  des  *Etna\  Gottingen  and 
Weimar). 

Mount  JEtna,  Sicilian  Mongibello  (from  'monte'  and  'jebel', 
the  Arabic  for  mountain),  commonly  called  lJl  Monte1,  is  the 
loftiest  volcano  in  Europe,  as  well  as  the  highest  mountain  in 
Italy.  Height  10,870  ft.;  principal  points:  Nicolosi  2289  ft.; 
the  Monti  Rossi  3110  ft.;  Casa  del  Bosco  4216  ft.;  snow- 
houses  at  the  base  of  the  Montagnuolo,  the  W.  extremity  of 
the  Serra  del  Solfizio,  6890  ft.  ;  Casa  Inglese  9652  ft. ;  Torre  del 
Filosofo,  on  the  verge  of  the  Val  di  Hove,  9570  ft.  There  are 
three  different  zones  of  vegetation  on  the  slopes  of  yEtna.  The 
first  extends  as  far  as  Nicolosi,  called  the  Piemontese  or  Coltivata, 
and  yielding  the  usual  Sicilian  products.  Vines,  however,  are 
occasionally  seen  at  a  height  of  4000  ft.  The  next  /.one  is  the 
Boscosa  or  Nemorosa,  extending  to  7000  ft.  and  subdivided  into 
two  regions.  The  lower  of  these  (2200-B700  ft. )  is  clothed 
chiefly  with  oaks  and  chestnuts,  above  which  are  copper-beeches 
(Fagus  silvatica)  and  birches  (Betula  alba  and  lletnla  Etnensis). 
On  the  N.E.  side,  where  extensive  pine-forests  are  situated, 
pines    (Pinus    silvestris;    Sicil.    zappinu)    grow    at    a    height    of 


Eruptions.  MOUNT  .ETNA.  39.  Route.      309 

7200  ft.  The  highest  region,  from  7000  ft.  to  the  summit,  is 
almost  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  a  circumstance  due  to 
the  scarcity  of  water  and  the  frequent  changes  in  the  surface 
of  the  soil.  About  forty  species  of  plants  only  are  found  here, 
among  which  are  the  barberry,  juniper,  Viola  gracilis,  and  Saponaria 
depressa.  Within  the  last  2000  ft.  five  phanerogamous  species 
only  flourish  :  Senecio  Etnensis,  Anthemis  Etnensis,  Robertsia 
taraxacoides  (these  -three  peculiar  to  yEtna),  Tanacetum  vulgare, 
and  Astragalus  Siculus ,  which  last  grows  in  tufts  of  3-4  ft.  in 
diameter.  The  Senecio  Etnensis  is  found  as  high  as  the  vicinity 
of  the  crater,  several  hundred  feet  above  the  Casa  Inglese.  Not 
a  trace  of  animal  life  can  be  detected  on  the  higher  portion  of 
the  mountain.  The  black  silent  waste,  glittering  in  the  sun- 
shine, produces  an  impression  seldom  forgotten  by  those  who  have 
witnessed  it.  On  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountain,  wolves,  as 
well  as  hares,  rabbits,  and  a  few  wild  boars,  are  the  usual  ob- 
jects of  the  chase.  jEtna  is  clothed  with  fourteen  different 
forests,  which,  however,  present  no  definite  line  of  demarcation. 
Ferns  (especially  the  Pteris  aquilina)  frequently  take  the  place 
of  underwood.  The  densest  forests  are  the  Boschi  delta  Cerrilla 
and  di  Linguaglossa  on  the  N.E.  side,  which,  however,  suffered 
greatly  from  the  eruption  of  1865.  As  lately  as  the  16th  cent, 
impenetrable  forests  extended  from  the  summit  down  to  the 
valley  of  the  Cantara,  and  Cardinal  Bembo  extols  the  beauty  of 
the  groves  of  plane-trees.  About  the  beginning  of  the  last 
century  about  one-third  of  the  E.  coast  of  the  island  was  still 
overgrown  with  forest. 

Eeuptions.  .Etna  has  been  known  as  a  volcano  from  the 
earliest  ages.  At  one  time  the  mountain  has  been  represented  as 
the  prison  of  the  giant  Enceladus  or  Typhosus,  at  another  as  the 
forge  of  Vulcan.  It  is,  however,  remarkable  that  the  Greek  mar- 
iners' traditions  in  Homer  do  not  allude  to  its  volcanic  character. 
Pindar,  on  the  other  hand,  describes  an  eruption  previous  to 
476.  About  eighty  eruptions  fall  within  the  limits  of  history. 
The  most  violent  were  those  of  B.C.  396,  126,  and  122,  and 
A.D.  1169,  1329,  1537,  and  1669.  The  last,  one  of  the  most 
stupendous  of  all,  has  been  described  by  the  naturalist  Borelli. 
On  that  occasion  the  Monti  Rossi  were  formed,  27,000  persons 
were  deprived  of  all  shelter,  and  many  lives  were  lost  in  the 
rapidly  descending  streams  of  lava.  In  1693  an  eruption  was 
accompanied  by  a  fearful  earthquake,  which  partially  or  totally 
destroyed  forty  towns,  and  caused  a  loss  of  60-100,000  lives.  An 
eruption  took  place  in  1755,  the  year  of  the  earthquake  at 
Lisbon.  That  of  1792  has  been  described  by  Ferrara  and  others. 
In  1843  and  1852  lava-streams  burst  forth  near  Bronte  and  in 
the  Val  di  Bove ,  and  the  eruption  of  1st  Feb.  186:"),  occurred 
at    the    base    of   the    great    crater   of   Monte    Frumento ,    to    the 


310      Route  39.  MOUNT   -ETNA.  Cwsit  dii  Iiosco. 

N.  W.  of  the  principal  crater.  The  last  eruption  took  place  on 
'29th  anil  30th  Aug.  1874  (comp.  p.  312).  An  eruption  takes  place, 
on  an  average,   once  in  ten  years. 

**Ascent.  We  quit  Catania  by  the  long  Str.  Etnea,  and  pass 
a  long  succession  of  country-residences.  If  time  permits,  the  tra- 
veller should  visit  the  park  of  the  Marchese  8.  Giuliano,  at  Licatia, 
a  little  to  the  right  of  the  road.  By  the  Barriera  the  road  divides, 
that  to  Nicolosi  leading  to  the  left,  between  the  two  obelisks. 
The  ascent  becomes  more  rapid;  Gravina  is  passed,  then  Mas- 
calucia  (3100  inhab.),  and  farther  on  Torre  di  Grifo  {Torrelifo, 
1749  ft.).  Between  this  and  Nicolosi  we  traverse  the  barren  sur- 
face of  the  lava-stream  of  1537.  The  round  and  tall  bushes  of  broom 
( Genista  Etnensis)  which  flourish  here  form  a  peculiar  feature 
of  the  scene.  To  the  right  of  the  road,  about  '/2  M.  from  Nicolosi, 
is  the  crater  called  the  Grotta  del  Bove ,  which  may  be  visited  in 
passing  (no  path,  and  a  wall  must  be  climbed  over).  To  the  left 
tower  the  reddish  Monti  Rossi  (3110  ft.),  2  M.  from  Nicolosi, 
which  may  be  ascended  with  tolerable  ease  (2-2]/2  hrs.  there  and 
back ;  mule  2-2'/2  fr-)-  They  command  a  fine  view,  especially 
towards  the  S.    The  soil  contains  a  number  of  crystals  of  pyroxene. 

Leaving  Nicolosi  (2289  ft.),  we  ride  for  nearly  an  hour  towards 
the  N.,  a  part  of  the  route  which  in  returning  will  be  found  very 
fatiguing  after  the  descent  from  the  cool  mountain  air.  The 
ascent  of  the  forest-region  which  now  begins  is  at  first  somewhat 
precipitous ;  the  path  winds,  and  in  many  places  traverses  small 
ravines.  After  another  hour  we  reach  the  Casa  del  Eosco  (4216ft.), 
where  good  drinking-water  is  to  be  had.  The  height  to  the  left  is 
a  good  point  for  observing  the  sunset.  Near  it  are  several  other 
houses,  including  one  belonging  to  the  Duke  Alba  in  a  chestnut- 
plantation.  The  path  winds  its  way  through  a  hollow  between 
smaller  extinct  volcanoes,  until,  about  6500  ft.  above  the  sea,  it 
enters  the  Regione  Deserta.  The  ascent  is  at  first  gradual.  To  the 
right  is  seen  the  Montagnuolo  (9324  ft.),  the  W.  extremity 
of  the  Serra  del  Solfizio,  below  which  to  the  S.  the  snow-recep- 
tacles are  situated.  To  the  N.  this  ridge  descends  perpendicularly 
to  a  depth  of  2-3000  ft.  to  the  Val  di  Bove,  round  which 
the  traveller  proceeds  by  the  Piano  del  Lago,  after  a  short  but 
precipitous  part  of  the  ascent.  As  we  approach  the  Casa  Inglese 
( 9652  ft.),  the  mules  begin  to  show  signs  of  fatigue  and  im- 
patience to  reach  their  destination.  This  house,  which  is  almost 
indispensable  to  the  climber  of  ^Etna,  was  erected  by  order  of 
several  English  officers  at  the  beginning  of  the  century  during 
the  occupation  of  Sicily.  After  having  stood  for  fifty  years,  the  hut 
had  suffered  from  the  pressure  of  the  snow,  but  was  repaired 
in  1862  on  the  occasion  of  the  visit  of  the  crown-prince  Hum- 
bert of  Italy.  !u  future  it  will  be  kept  in  repair  by  the  Italian 
Alpine  Club. 


(rater.  MOUNT  /ETNA.  39.  Route.      311 

We  now  begin  the  ascent  of  the  crater,  the  most  laborious 
portion  of  the  expedition.  The  height  appears  inconsiderable,  but 
nearly  1000  ft.  have  still  to  be  ascended.  The  walking  on  the 
lower  part  of  the  cone,  on  ashes  yielding  at  every  step,  is  uncom- 
fortable. About  midway  the  Arm  rock  is  reached,  and  the  ascent 
becomes  easier. 

In  3/4  hr.  we  attain  the  brink  of  the  Crater,  the  form  of 
which  undergoes  constant  alteration.  At  one  time  it  consists  of 
a  single  profound  abyss,  2-3  M.  in  circumference,  at  another  it 
is  divided  by  a  barrier  into  two  parts,  one  of  which  only  emits 
smoke.  The  summit  itself  is  usually  altered  by  every  eruption. 
In  1861,  it  was  on  the  E.  side,  in  1864  on  the  W.,  and  even 
ancient  writers  expressed  their  belief  that  the  crater  sank  to  some 
extent  after  every  eruption. 

After  a  short  pause  the  highest  peak  (10,870  ft. J  is  easily  ascend- 
ed, as  the  surface  is  soft.  From  this  spot  the  sunrise,  a  spectacle 
of  indescribable  grandeur,  should  be  witnessed.  The  summit  is 
illumined  by  the  morning  twilight  whilst  all  below  is  enveloped 
in  profound  obscurity.  The  sun  still  reposes  in  the  sea,  which 
occasionally  presents  the  appearance  of  a  lofty  bank  of  clouds, 
the  horizon  being  considerably  more  elevated  than  the  spectator 
would  expect.  For  some  time  purple  clouds  have  indicated 
the  point  where  the  sun  is  about  to  appear.  Suddenly  a  ray 
of  light  flits  across  the  surface  of  the  water,  gradually  changing 
to  a  golden  streak ,  the  lower  part  of  which  shimmers  in 
an  intense  purple  as  it  widens.  The  beaming  disc  then  slowly 
emerges.  The  mountains  of  Calabria  still  cast  their  long  shadows 
on  the  sea;  the  top  of  JEtna,  alone  is  bathed  in  sunshine.  The 
light  gradually  descends  to  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountain, 
and  the  shadow  which  the  vast  pyramid  casts  over  Sicily  to  the 
W-  deepens.  The  outlines  of  the  cone  and  its  summit  are 
distinctly  recognised,  forming  a  colossal  isosceles  triangle  on  the 
surface  of  the  island.  After  i/4  hr.  the  sublime  spectacle  is 
over,  and  the  flood  of  light  destroys  the  effeot  produced  by  the 
shadows.  The  deep  valleys  and  the  precipitous  coast  alone  remain 
for  a  time  in  obscurity,  being  shaded  by  the  loftier  mountains. 
As  the  sun  continues  to  ascend,  new  points  become  visible. 
The  spectator  stands  at  the  centre  of  a  vast  circle  of  260  M.  in 
diameter  and  800  M.  in  circumference.  Towards  the  N.E.  is  the 
peninsula  of  Calabria,  above  which  masses  of  clouds  frequently 
hover  on  the  N.,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  an  island.  The  Faro 
of  Messina  (the  town  not  visible)  lies  at  our  feet,  the  Neptunian 
Mts.  appear  like  insignificant  hills,  ami  the  Nebrode  only  a 
degree  higher.  The  Pizzo  di  Palermo,  the  highest  point  of  the 
Madonia  range  to  the  W.N.W.,  and  the  Pizzo  of  Corleone  and 
Cammarata  to  the  W.  are  the  only  conspicuous  points.  In 
winter,  when  the  atmosphere   is   unusually  clear,    the  motion  of 


312      Route  39.  MOUNT  iETNA.  Val  di  Bove. 

the  waves  on  the  shores  of  the  island  is  said  to  be  distinguish-, 
able.  The  coast  of  Africa,  being  below  the  horizon,  cannot 
possibly  be  visible,  notwithstanding  the  assurances  of  the  guides. 
Malta,  however,  may  be  distinguished,  and  it  has  been  stated 
by  credible  witnesses  that  the  bay  of  Taranto  and  its  K.  shore 
are  occasionally  seen.  The  greater  part  of  the  E.  coast  of  the 
island  is  visible  ;  the  Lipari  islands  appear  to  greet  their  majestic 
sovereign  with  their  columns  of  smoke  ;  the  promontory  of  Milazzo 
extends  far  into  the  sea;  and  numerous  other  points,  which  cannot 
be  enumerated,   are  descried. 

After  a  walk  round  the  crater ,  we  descend  rapidly  to  the 
Casa  Inglese  and  remount  our  mules.  In  descending,  we  make 
a  slight  digression  towards  the  E.  in  order  that  we  may  approach 
the  abyss  of  the  Val  di  Bove,  a  black,  desolate  gulf,  3  M.  in 
width,  bounded  on  three  sides  by  perpendicular  cliffs,  2000-4000  ft. 
in  height  (left  Serra  delle  Concazze,  right  Serra  del  Solfizio), 
and  open  towards  the  E.  only.  Geologically  this  basin  is  the 
most  remarkable  part  of  jEtna,  as  its  S.W.  angle,  the  so-called 
Balzo  di  TrifogLietto ,  where  the  descent  is  steepest  and  most 
precipitous,  was  very  probably  the  original  crater  of  the  moun- 
tain. —  The  traveller  should  not  omit  to  direct  the  guides  to 
conduct  him  to  the  two  regular  cones  whence  an  eruption  in 
1852  pro/eeded.  The  five  formed  in  1865  are  reached  by  tra- 
versing the  N.  side  of  the  Val  di  Bove,  whence  they  are  seen 
to  the  W.  of  the  large  and  very  symmetrically  shaped  crater  of 
Monte  Frumento  (9330  ft.).  The  eruption  of  29th  and  30th 
Aug.  1874  took  place  on  the  N.  side  of  the  plateau  of  the 
summit.  At  a  height  of  about  10,000  ft.  a  cleft  was  formed  in 
the  mountain's  crust,  from  the  so-called  Cratere  EUittico  to  the 
formerly  active  cones  of  Timpa  Rossa  and  Monte  Nero.  The 
volcanic  action  was  most  violent  near  the  Monte  Oriyio ,  at  a 
height  of  about  8000  ft.,  where  the  chasm  expanded  to  a  width 
of  160-190  ft.  ,  but  the  lava-stream  emitted  flowed  for  a  few 
hours  only.  A  second,  and  larger  stream,  440  yds.  long,  260  yds. 
wide,  and  7ft.  in  depth,  descended  for  some  distance  from  the 
same  chasm  at  a  height  of  about  7000  ft.  ,  but  did  not  extend 
as  far  as  the  cultivated  part  of  the  slopes. 

From  the  Val  di  Bove  we  ride  to  the  Torre  del  Filosofo 
(9570  ft. J,  the  traditional  observatory  of  Empedocles ,  who  is 
said  to  have  sought  a  voluntary  death  in  the  crater.  According 
to  others  it  was  used  as  a  watch-tower  in  ancient  times.  As  the 
building  is  obviously  of  Roman  construction ,  it  was  possibly 
erected  on  the  occasion  of  the  Emperor  Hadrian's  ascent  of  the 
mountain  to  witness  the  sunrise.  The  descent  now  recommences; 
the  steeper  portions  are  more  pleasantly  and  safely  traversed  on 
foot.  Before  reaching  the  plain  of  Nicolosi,  we  observe  the  mon- 
astery of  »V.  ISirr"'"  '''.««•»»>"  +n  tl.p  lpft     where  the  Benedictines  of 


LENTINI.  III.  Route.      313 

Catania  used  to  celebrate  their  vintage-festival.     It  was  founded 
in  1156  by  Simon,  Count  of  Policastro,  nephew  of  Roger  1. 

Instead  of  returning  to  Catania,  the  traveller  may  prefer  to 
proceed  from  Nicolosi  by  Pedara  Via  Cirande  and  Aci-Reale,  and 
thence  by  the  high  road  to   Qiardini  and  Taormina  (p.  295). 


40.     From  Catania  to  Syracuse. 

ai'|j  M.  Railway  ,  two  trains  daily  in  3'|a  lirs.  ;  fares  9  fr.  85,  0  fr. 
95,  4  fr.  95  c.  —  Steamboat  once  weekly  ( Mond.  11  a.  m.)  in  4  lirs. ;  thence 
to  Malta,  see  p.  328. 

The  railway  intersects  the  Piano  di  Catania,  the  Campi  Lae- 
strygonii,  which  Cicero  extols  as  the  'uberrima  pars  Sicilise', 
and  which  are  still  regarded  as  the  granary  of  the  island.  To  the 
right  lies  the  village  of  Misterbianco. 

5  M.  Bicocca,  junction  for  S.  Caterina  (p.  268).  10  51.  Pasw 
Murtino.  The  train  crosses  the  Simeto  (Symaethu*)  and  beyond  it 
the  Ournalonga.  Lower  down,  these  streams  unite  to  form  the 
O'iarretta.  In  winter  the  whole  plain  is  frequently  under  water, 
and  the  high  road  impassable.  Malaria  prevails  in  the  lower  parts 
in  summer.     The  railway  traverses  the  hilly  ground. 

16  M.  Valsavoia.  The  train  now  approaches  the  Lake  of  Len- 
tini  (Biriere  di  Lentini),  frequented  by  innumerable  waterfowl  in 
winter.  This  lake,  the  largest  in  Sicily,  is  usually  swollen  in 
winter,  while  in  summer  its  exhalations  poison  the  atmosphere. 
(^Lentini  is  therefore  to  be  avoided  as  a  resting-place  for  the  night.) 
Its  circumference  varies  from  91/.)  to  121/}  M.  according  to  the 
height  of  the  water. 

18  M.  Lentini.  The  town  (Leone  d'Oro;  Vittoria,  dirty; 
Aquila;  *  Trattoria  Trinacria)  is  about  3  M.  from  the  station. 

Lentini  (with  10,600  inliab.),  the  ancient  Leontinoi,  one  of  the  earliest 
Greek  settlements  in  Sicily,  was  founded  in  B.C.  730  by  colonists  from  Naxos 
under  Theocles,  simultaneously  with  Catana.  A  century  later  the  transi- 
tion from  oligarchy  to  democracy  was  succeeded  by  the  establishment  of 
a  tyranny  by  Pannsetius ;  after  another  century  it  succumbed  to  the  Doric 
Uela,  and  then  came  into  the  possession  of  Syracuse.  The  inhabitants 
repeatedly  but  unsuccessfully  endeavoured  to  regain  their  independence. 
Gorgias ,  the  great  orator  and  sophist,  was  a  native  of  Leontini  (480-380). 
and  by  his  persuasive  eloquence,  as  is  well  known,  the  Athenians  were 
induced  to  interfere  in  the  quarrels  of  the  Sicilians.  After  the  disastrous 
issue  of  the  war,  Leontini  continued  subject  to  Syracuse  \  but  Timelc-on 
at  length  expelled  the  tyrant  Hicetas  and  restored  its  independence. 
In  the  3rd  cent,  it  came  into  the  power  of  Hiero  II.,  whose  successor 
liieronymus  lost  his  life  here.  Polybius,  who  records  this  event,  at 
the  same  time  describes  the  situation  of  the  town.  It  appears  to  have 
lain  to  the  S.  XV .  of  the  present  town,  and  not  where  local  topographers 
usually  place  it.  Under  the  Romans  it  was  of  little  importance.  The 
Saracens  gained  possession  of  it  at  an  early  period.  In  the  middle  ages 
the  fortress  was  besieged  several  times ,  and  bravely  defended.  The 
town  and  castle  were  almost  totally  destroyed  by  the  earthquake  of  1093. 

A  road  ascends  in  long  windings  from  Lentini  to  Carleiitiai,  a  poor 
town  with  5500  inhab.,  founded   by  Charles  V    (whence  the  name). 


3  I  4      Route  -10.  AUGUSTA. 

From  Lentini,  or  from  Augusta,  a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  tomb  ca- 
verns of  Pantelica,  to  the  N.  of  Palazzolo  (p.  275)  ;  carriage  there  and  back 
in  one  day  25  fr. 

The  train  now  turns  to  the  E.  towards  the  coast,  following  the 
valley  of  the  S.  Lionardo  (the  Pantacyas  of  the  ancients),  which 
it  afterwards  crosses. 

24  M.  Agnone.  To  the  left  the  so-called  Pantano ,  a  marshy 
pond,    becomes  visible. 

31   M.   Brucoli.     The  line  skirts  the  lofty  coast. 

35'/>  M.  Augusta,  or  Agosta,  as  it  was  named  until  recently, 
a  fortified  seaport  with  11,900  inhab.,  was  erected  by  Frederick  II. 
in  1229-33 ,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Xiphonia.  The  town 
was  conquered  and  destroyed  several  times  in  the  middle  ages. 
In  1676  it  was  taken  by  the  French,  and  Duquesne  here  de- 
feated I)e  Ruyter,  who  died  of  his  wounds  at  Syracuse.  In  1693 
the  town  was  severely  damaged  by  the  earthquake. 

The  railway  follows  the  coast.  The  Megarean  Bay  of  antiquity, 
extending  from  the  Capo  Santa  Croce,  E.  of  Agosta,  to  the  Capo 
S.  Panayia  near  Syracuse,  was  formerly  bordered  with  a  number 
of  towns.  Here  from  N.  to  S.  lay  Xiphonia,  Hybla  Meyara,  and 
Aiabon.  Hybla,  which  was  situated  between  the  mouths  of  the 
Fiume  Cantata  and  S.  Gusmano ,  was  founded  in  728  by  col- 
onists from  Megara  Nissea,  conquered  and  destroyed  by  Gelon,  but 
re-erected  after  the  Athenian  and  Syracusan  war  as  an  outlying 
fort  of  Syracuse. 

On  the  hills  to  the  right  lies  the  small  town  of  Mellili,  where 
the  Hyblsean  honey,  so  highly  extolled  by  the  poets,  was  produced. 
On  1st  and  2nd  May  a  vast  concourse  of  people  assembles  at 
Mellili  to  offer  thanks  to  St.  Sebastian  for  the  miraculous  cures 
effected  by  him,   and  to  celebrate  his  festival. 

44  M.  Priolo;  the  village  lies  to  the  right.  To  the  left  is 
the  peninsula  of  Magnisi,  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  narrow 
isthmus.  This  was  the  peninsula  of  Thapsus,  well  known  in 
connection  with  the  Athenian  campaign.  The  Athenian  fleet  lay  to 
the  N.  of  the  isthmus.    Salt-works  are  now  situated  here. 

About  1'1'j  31.  from  Prioio  stands  the  'Torre  del  Marcello",  probably 
the  remains  of  a  tomb,  but  commonly  reputed  to  be  a  trophy  erected  here 
by  Marcellus  on  the  site  of  his  camp  after  the  conquest  of  .Syracuse. 

The  train  now  skirts  the  Trogilus,  the  bay  where  the  fleet 
of  Marcellus  lay,  and  approaches  the  terrace  which  extended  from 
the  Belvedere  to  Capo  S.  Panagia  and  bore  the  N.  Dionysian  town- 
wall  of  the  Achradina.  It  crosses  the  wall  near  the  Tyche  quarter 
of  the  town,  runs  eastwards  to  Capo  Panagia,  and  finally  reaches 
the  precipitous  E.  margin  of  the  bare,  rocky  plateau  once  occu- 
pied by  the  Achradina.  Passing  the  (r.)  Capuchin  Monastery  with 
its  Latomia,   we  at  length  reach  — 

54'/2  M.  Stat.  Siracusa,  3/4  M.  from  the  town  (one-horse 
carriage  90  c,  two-horse  1  fr.  20  c. ;  at  night  1  fr.  40  or  1  fr.  70c). 


"Wlit'Tii-T  it  lift  p.',  Xerr>2. 


315 


41.    Syracuse. 

Hotels.  Locaniia  del  Sole  ,  on  the  quay ,  commanding  a  tine  view, 
but  somewhat  dilapidated ,  R.  2>|2,  D.  3>|2  ft'-,  L.  60  c.  Vittoiua,  in  the 
town,  without  view,  but  kept  in  better  order,  similar  charges  (bargaining 
necessary  at  both).  —  For  a  longer  stay:  Villa  Eiscica  in  the  Achradina, 
somewhat  distant  from  the  town,  for  families.  The  custodian  Salvatore 
Politi  also  has  several  clean  rooms  in  the  town. 

Restaurants.  The  two  hotels  also  contain  restaurants,  where  Miixcato, 
Amarena,  Isold  Bianco.,  and  other  excellent  Syracusan  wines  may  be  pro- 
cured, and  where  a  fish-dinner  may  be  ordered.  Among  the  favourite 
varieties  of  fish  are  the  Rivetto  (large,  but  delicate),  Salamone ,  Dentici 
(so  called  from  its  numerous  teeth),  and  Palamito  (resembling  salmon). 

Cafe.  "Grace  di  Suvoia ,  Piazza  del  Duomo.  —  Near  the  piazza  is  a 
Club,  well  supplied  with  Italian  newspapers,  to  which  visitors  are  readily 
admitted. 

Cabs.  From  the  station  to  the  town,  see  p.  314.  —  Drive  in  the  town, 
with  one  horse  50  c,  with  two  horses  80  c.  ;  at  night  1  fr.  or  1  fr.  30  c. 
Per  hour  i'fo  or  2  fr.,  at  night  2  or  2'|2  fr. ;  each  additional  half-hour  60 
or  80  c,  and  80  c.  or  1  fr.  —  Luggage  20  c,  if  over  a  hundredweight  40  c. 

Guides.  Salvatore  Politi,  custodian  of  the  Museum,  where  he  is  to  be 
found  daily ;  fee  about  5  fr.  for  the  whole  day,  3-4  fr.  for  half-a-day ;  he 
also  procures  carriages  at  12  fr.  for  a  whole  day ,  6-8  fr.  for  half-a-day, 
and  offers  photographs,  coins,  drawings  on  papyrus,  etc.  for  sale.  Michel 
Angelo  Politi ,  another  guide,  speaks  a  little  French,  and  Felice  Valeria 
speaks  English. 

Donkeys  may  be  hired  of  Don  Pasquale  for  about  3  fr.  per  day. 

Boats.  To  the  Cyane  (p.  328)  6-8  fr. ;  to  the  mouth  of  the  Anapo  only, 
il\2-2  fr.  —  The  boatmen  here  are  generally  less  extortionate  in  their 
demands  than  those  in  other  parts  of  Italy.  To  or  from  the  steamboats 
!J2  fr.  for  each  person.  Ferry  from  the  town  to  the  Sicilian  coast  (Pozzo 
degli  Ingegneri)  or  the  marble  harbour,  25  c. ;  pedestrians  thus  effect  a 
considerable  saving. 

Steamboats  of  the  Florio  Go.  (A.  Cassia,  agent)  every  Wednesday 
evening  to  Catania,  Messina,  and  Palermo;  every  Tuesday  evening  to 
Terranova  ,  Licata ,  Girgenti ,  Sciacca ,  Trapani ,  and  Palermo  (see  p.  246). 
Every  Monday  at  11  p.  m.  to  Malta  (see  p.  328). 

Diligences  daily  at  8  a.  m.  to  Noto  and  Vittoria  (p.  277),  and  to 
Palazzolo  and  Bucckeri  (p.  275).  Office  for  the  former  line  at  the  post- 
office,  Piazza  del  Duomo;  for  the  latter  in  the  Strada  Piazza. 

Attkactions.  If  the  traveller  has  one  day  only  at  his  disposal ,  he 
should  devote  a  few  hours  only  to  the  modern  town ,  and  the  rest  of  the 
day  to  the  ancient  city ;  and  he  should  not  omit  to  visit  the  Greek  theatre 
at  sunset.  The  chief  points  of  the  ancient  town  may  be  visited  by  carriage 
in  6-8  hrs.  —  Two  days  at  least  should,  however,  be  devoted  to  Syracuse 
if  possible ,  and  in  this  case  an  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  valley  of 
the  Anapo.  There  are  many  interesting  walks  in  the  neighbourhood,  and 
with  the  aid  of  the  following  directions  the  most  interesting  points  may 
be  found  without  a  guide. 

Syracuse,  which  was  in  ancient  times  the  most  important  town 
in  Sicily,  and  indeed  the  most  important  of  all  the  Hellenic  cities, 
now  contains  22,000  inhab.  only.  It  is  situated  on  an  island  close 
to  the  coast,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  prefect  and  a  bishop,  but  its  trade 
is  unimportant.  The  bay  on  the  AV.  side  of  the  town  is  the  Porto 
Grande  ,  the  entrance  to  which  between  the  8.  extremity  of  the 
island  and  the  opposite  promontory  of  Massolivieri ,  the  ancient 
Plemmyrion ,    is  1300  yds.    iu  width.     During   the  height  of  its 


316      Route  41 .  SYRACUSE.  History. 

prosperity  Syracuse  contained  no  fewer  than  500,000  inhab.,  and 
it  extended  over  a  large  tract  of  the  lofty  coast  to  the  N.W.  —  This 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  points  in  Sicily,  its  natural  beauties 
vying  with  its  great  classical  attractions. 

Syracuse  was  founded  in  734  by  Corinthians  under  Archias  on  the  island 
of  Ortygia,  where  a  Phoenician  settlement  had  probably  been  established 
at  an  earlier  period.  The  Sikelian  inhabitants  were  reduced  to  the  con- 
dition of  serfs,  and  compelled  to  cultivate  the  soil.  The  government  was 
conducted  by  the  aristocracy,  the  descendants  of  the  founders,  who  were 
called  Gamores.  Owing  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  colony,  rapidly 
rose  to  prosperity,  and  within  70  years  after  its  establishment  founded 
Acrre  (Palazzolo)  and  Enna  (Castrogiovanni),  and  20  years  later  Casmena?. 
Cnmarina  was  founded  in  599.  The  final  issue  of  the  contests  carried  on 
with  varying  success  between  the  nobles  and  the  people  was,  that  Galon 
in  484  extended  his  supremacy  from  Gela  to  Syracuse,  to  which  he  trans- 
ferred his  residence.  He  contributed  in  every  respect  to  the  aggrandise- 
ment ul'  the  city,  and,  after  he  had  in  conjunction  with  Theron  defeated 
the  Carthaginians  at  Himera  in  480 ,  the  golden  era  of  the  Greek  supre- 
macy in  Sicily  began.  During  a  long  series  of  years  the  fortunes  of 
the  whole  island  were  now  interwoven  with  those  of  Syracuse.  Gelon, 
who  reigned  for  seven  years  only,  was  revered  as  a  god  after  bis  death. 

He  was  succeeded  by  his  brother  Hiero  I.  whose  rule  was  characterised 
by  the  same  energy  and  good  fortune.  He  defeated  the  formidable  Etruscans 
(p.  100)  near  Cumfe ;  and  at  his  court  iEschylus  ,  Pindar,  Simonides, 
Epieharnius,  Sophron  ,  and  Bacchylides  nourished.  After  a  reign  of  ten 
years  only  he  was  succeeded  by  Tbrasybulus,  the  youngest  of  the  three 
brothers. 

Notwithstanding  his  army  of  15,000  mercenaries ,  Thrasybulus  was 
soon  banished  from  the  city,  and  a  Democracy  was  established.  In  the 
conflicts  with  the  Sikelian  prince  Ducetius  and  the  Acragantines  the  army 
of  Syracuse  maintained  its  superiority ,  and  the  supremacy  of  the  city 
gradually  extended  over  the  greater  part  of  the  island;  but  its  power  was 
impaired  by  subsequent  dissensions  between  the  original  Syracusans  and 
the  inhabitants  introduced  by  Gelon  and  Hiero.  '•Petalismvs''  here  took 
the  place    of   the  Athenian   ostracism. 

Syracuse  was  afterwards  reduced  to  great  extremities  by  the  Athenians, 
whose  aid  had  been  invoked  by  the  Egestans.  In  P..C.  415  they  accordingly 
sent  a  fleet  of  134  triremes  to  Sicily  under  Nicias  and  Lamachus  ,  hoping 
to  conquer  the  island  and  thus  extend  their  supremacy  over  the  western 
Mediterranean.  At  first  the  Athenians  were  successful ,  especially  in  the 
summer  of  414  when  they  stormed  the  loftily  situated  Epipolai,  and  almost 
entirely  surrounded  the  city  with  a  double  wall,  extending  from  the 
Trogilus  to  the  great  harbour.  The  beleaguered  city  was  on  the  point 
of  capitulating  when  the  Spartan  Gylippus,  who  had  landed  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  island  with  a  small  army,  came  to  its  relief,  and  succeeded  in 
making  his  way  into  it  through  an  opening  in  the  Athenian  wall.  With 
his  aid  the  citizens  gradually  recovered  strength,  and  gained  possession  of 
the  Plemiiiyrium,  the  promontory  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbour  opposite 
Ortygia,  and  then  occupied  by  Nicias.  Once  more,  indeed,  the  nautical 
skill  of  the  Athenians  enabled  them  to  defeat  the  Syracusan  ilect  off  the 
harbour,  and  they  erected  a  trophy  on  the  small  island  of  La  Galera 
below  Plemiiiyrium ;  but  this  was  their  last  success.  In  another  naval 
battle  the  Syracusans  were  victorious,  while  the  prospects  of  the  Athe- 
nians were  but  temporarily  improved  by  the  arrival  of  Demosthenes  with 
auxiliaries.  An  impetuous  night  attack  made  by  him  on  the  Syracusan 
iiitrencbments  was  repulsed  after  a  fierce  struggle.  Disease  broke  out 
among  the  Athenians,  and  their  misfortunes  were  aggravated  by  dissensions 
among  their  generals.  The  retreat  was  finally  determined  on ,  but  was 
frustrated  by  an  eclipse  of  the  moon  (2(tli  Aug.  413).  The  Syracusans 
then  resolved  to  endeavour  to  annihilate  their  enemy.  They  were  again 
victorious    in    a    naval    battle,  and    enclosed  their  harbour  by    a    series    of 


History. 


.SYRACUSE.  11.  Route.      317 


vessels,  anchored  and  connected  by  chains  across  the  entrance,  8  stadia 
in  width.  The  decisive  encounter  now  approached.  The  two  land-armies 
were  stationed  on  the  bank  of  the  harbour  and  simulated  the  combatants 
by  loud  shouts,  whilst  the  fluctuating  tide  of  success  elicited  alternate 
expressions  of  joy  and  grief,  which  have  been  so  graphically  described 
bv  Thucydides  as  resembling  the  surging  of  a  dramatic  chorus.  The 
Athenians  were  overpowered.  On  the  following  day  the  crews  refused 
to  attempt  again  to  force  a  passage,  and  on  the  third  day  the  retreat 
was  commenced  by  land  in  the  direction  of  the  interior  of  the  island. 
At  Floridia,  however,  the  pass  was  obstructed,  and  the  ill-fated  Athe- 
nians were  compelled  to  return  to  the  coast.  Here  they  were  overtaken 
by  the  Syracusans.  Demosthenes  with  6000  men  was  compelled  to 
surrender,  and  after  a  fearful  struggle  on  the  Asmai'us,  near  Noto,  Ivicias 
met  with  the  same  fate.  Few  escaped.  The  generals  were  executed,  and 
the  prisoners  languished  for  eight  months  in  the  Latomise,  after  which  the 
survivors  were  sold  as  slaves,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  who  are  said 
to  have  been  set  at  liberty  on  account  of  their  skill  in  reciting  the  verses 
of  Euripides.  Thus  was  the  power  of  mighty  Athens  shattered  against 
the  walls  of  Syracuse,  never  again  to  recover  its  ancient  prestige;  and 
Thucydides  justly  observes  that  —  'this  event  was  the  most  important 
which  befel  the  Greeks  during  this  war  (the  Peloponnesian),  or  indeed 
in  any  others  in  Greek   history   which  are  known   to  us.1 

A  few  years  after  the  deliverance  of  the  city  from  these  extremities 
the  Carthaginians  overran  the  island.  This  new  and  imminent  danger  was 
the  occasion  of  the  rise  of  Dionysius  7.,  who  presided  over  the  fortunes  of 
the  city  with  great  ability  from  406  to  367.  Himilco,  who  besieged  the 
city  from  the  Plemmyrium  and  the  Olympieum,  was  fortunately  driven 
away  by  a  pestilence.  Dionysius  then  chastised  the  allies  of  the  Cartha- 
ginians, and  fortified,  extended,  and  embellished  the  city  so  greatly  as  to 
merit  the  title  of  its  'second  founder".  He  converted  the  island  of  Ortygia 
into  the  seat  of  government,  there  erecting  temples,  treasuries,  arsenals, 
and  forts. 

His  son  Dionysius  II.  possessed  the  vices  without  the  virtues  of  his 
father.  In  356  he  was  banished  by  his  uncle  Dion,  and  again  on  his  return 
to  the  city  by  Timoleon  in  343.  The  latter  re-established  the  republic, 
and  introduced  40,000  new  colonists.  He  appointed  Amphipolus,  priest  of 
Zeus  Olympius ,  and  1000  senators  to  conduct  the  government ,  but  after 
in  336  this  constitution  was  found  unworkable. 

In  317  the  tyrant  Agathoeles  from  Thermae  (Termini)  usurped  the 
supreme  power,  and  retained  it  until  his  death  (by  poison)  in  289.  He  was  a 
talented  monarch,  but  a  characteristic  example  of  the  moral  depravity  of 
the  Greeks  of  his  time  —  cruel,  faithless,  and  full  of  fantastic  schemes. 
Whilst  he  was  engaged  in  besieging  Carthage,  Hamilcar  attacked  Syracuse 
(310),  but  unsuccessfully.  On  the  death  of  Agathoeles  the  republican  form 
of  government  was  re-established,  but  in  288  Hicetas  usurped  the  tyranny, 
and  was  afterwards  assassinated.  His  murderers  invited  Pyrrhus  of  Epirus, 
son-in-law  of  Agathoeles,  from  Italy,  who  reigned  for  two  years.  On  the 
departure  of  Pyrrhus  the  general  Hiero  II.  became  king,  and  under  him 
Syracuse,  now  in  close  alliance  with  the  Romans,  enjoyed  for  a  second 
time  a  brief  period  of  prosperity  (275-216).  During  his  reign  bucolic 
poetry  arose.  The  code  of  Hiero  was  long  the  legal  standard  for  the  whole 
of  Sicily.  Under  his  auspices  was  constructed  a  magnificent  and  famous 
vessel   which  was  adorned  with   illustrations    from    the  Iliad. 

Hieronymus,  Hiero's  successor,  allied  himself  with  the  Carthaginians, 
and  after  his  assassination  the  city  was  held  by  anti-Roman  agents.  It 
was  therefore  besieged  by  Marcellus  in  214-212,  and  was  defended  against 
his  attacks  on  the  N.  and  from  the  sea  by  the  celebrated  engineer  Archi- 
medes. During  the  celebration  of  a  festival,  1000  of  the  bravest  Romans 
scaled  the  walls  of  Tyche  (by  the  so-called  Calenaccia  on  the  Trogilus) 
and,  proceeding  along  the  summit,  captured  Hexapylon,  which  had  been 
erected  by  Dionysius.  Tyche,  Neapolis,  and  the  Epipolae  thus  fell  into  the 
hands  of  Marcellus,  but  the  island  and  the   Achradina  were   not  vet  over- 


olS      Route  41.  SYRACUSE.  History. 

come.  Whilst  he  was  attacking  the  Achradina  in  its  entire  length  on  the 
AV.  the  besieged  quitted  the  island  in  order  to  aid  in  repelling  the  attack. 
This  contingency  was  anticipated  by  a  traitor,  who  introduced  the  crew  of 
a  Roman  vessel  into  the  town  by  means  of  the  Arethusa,  and  conducted 
them  to  Achradina.  The  city  was  plundered,  and  Archimedes  slain  by  a 
soldier  who  did  not  know  him.  In  order  to  paralyse  the  city's  power  of 
resistance,  Marccllus  caused  the  island,  which  since  the  erection  of  Achra- 
dina had  been  connected  with  the  mainland,  to  be  again  separated  and 
united  by  a  bridge  only,  at  the  same  time  forbidding  the  Syracusans  to 
inhabit  it. 

After  the  enormous  booty,  comprising  valuable  works  of  art,  had  been 
conveyed  to  Rome.  Syracuse  sank  to  the  condition  of  a  Roman  provincial 
town.  In  Cicero's  time,  indeed,  it  was  the  'largest  of  Greek,  and  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  cities',  but  it  was  so  reduced  by  the  civil  war  between 
Pompey  and  Octavian  that  the  latter,  on  his  accession  to  the  throne,  found 
it  necessary  to  re-people  it  with  a  new  colony.  The  Apostle  Paul  spent 
three  days  at  Syracuse  on  his  journey  to  Rome,  and,  although  he  did  not 
found  a  Christian  community  there,  it  is  certain  that  Christianity  was  estab- 
lished in  the  city  at  a  very  early  period.  According  to  tradition,  St.  Peter 
is  said  to  have  sent  St.  Marcian  hither  in  the  year  41,  for  the  purpose  of 
preaching  Christianity. 

As  early  as  A.D.  278,  Syracuse  was  plundered  by  a  band  of  Franks 
who  had  escaped  from  captivity  on  the  shores  of  the  Black  Sea.  Beli- 
xarius  took  the  place  in  535  and  made  it  the  capital  of  the  island,  and 
('onslantius  in  663-68  even  transferred  the  seat  of  government  thither.  One 
vear  later  it  was  plundered  by  Abd-Allah-ibn-Kais.  In  828,  when  the 
iiyzantine  general  Euphemius  invited  the  Saracens  to  Sicily,  they  arrived 
at  Syracuse,  and  pitched  their  camp  in  the  Latomise ,  commanded  by 
A^ad-ibn-Fardl,  but  were  soon  compelled  to  raise  the  siege.  In  878  the  city 
at  last  succumbed  to  Ibrahim-ibn-Alimed  after  a  siege  of  nine  months.  The 
monk  Theodosius  gives  an  appalling  account  of  the  distress  of  the  besieged 
and  the  ferocity  of  the  victors.  The  spoil  which  they  obtained  here  was 
greater  than  that  yielded  by  any  other  conquest. 

Since  that  period  Syracuse  has  been  a  place  of  little  importance.  With 
the  aid  of  the  Normans  the  town  was  again  taken  by  the  Byzantine  general 
Maniaces,  but  was  soon  recaptured  by  the  Saracens,  whose  leader  Ibrahim- 
ibn-Thimna  subsequently  invited  the  Normans  to  Sicily.  In  1085  the  latter 
took  Syracuse,  and  strengthened  the  castle  which  the  Saracens  had  erected 
to  command  the  isthmus.  In  this  fortress  Queen  Bianca  of  Castile  was 
besieged  by  Bernard  Cabrera  in  1410.  Charles  V.  established  an  arsenal  at 
Syracuse,  and  caused  the  fortifications  of  the  isthmus  to  be  constructed 
with  materials  from  the  ruins  of  the  theatre  and  other  Greek  edifices. 
Here  in  1076,  after  the  battle  of  Agosta ,  the  celebrated  naval  hero  Be 
Eiujln-  died,  and  was  interred  in  the  Plemmyrium. 

In  1837  the  iNcupolitan  government  transferred  the  prefecture  from 
Syracuse  to  Noto.  In  1865,  however,  the  city  was  again  raised  to  the 
rank  of  the  capital  of  a  province,  and  it  now  begins  to  recover  a  little 
of  its  ancient  importance. 

A  few  only  of  the  attractions  of  Syracuse  lie  within  the  modern 
town,  most  of  them  being  situated  on  the  rocky  plateau  to  the  N.W., 
the  site  of  the  ancient  city. 

I.  Modern  Syracuse. 

i  'athedralf  Temple  of  Minerva),  Museum,  Arethusa,  Templeof  Diana. 
The  present  town,  as  already  stated,  occupies  the  island  of 
Orlyyht,  which  formed  hut  a  small  part  of  the  site  of  the  ancient 
city.  The  approach  to  it  from  the  coast  is  defended  by  a  now  dilap- 
idated Citadel  of  the  time  of  Charles  V.,  and  the  extremity  of  the 


Museum. 


SYRACUSE.  41.  Route.      319 


island  is  also  protected  by  fortifications.  The  town  is  closely  and 
irregularly  built.  It  is  traversed  lengthwise  by  two  somewhat 
winding  main  streets ,  in  the  middle  of  the  westernmost  of  which 
extends  the  cathedral  square. 

The  Cathedral  stands  on  the  site  of  a  Doric  temple,  the  columns 
of  which  with  their  capitals  are  still  seen  projecting  from  the  sides 
of  the  church.  The  temple  was  a  peripteral  hexastyle  on  a  basement 
of  three  steps,  about  61  yds.  in  length  ,  and  24  yds  in  width.  Of 
the  thirty -six  columns  thirteen  are  still  visible  on  the  N.  and 
nine  on  the  S.  side.  They  are  28  ft.  in  height  and  6'/2  ft.  in  thick- 
ness. It  is  not  known  to  what  deity  the  temple  was  dedicated, 
but  from  its  proximity  to  the  Arethusa,  it  was  perhaps  a  temple 
of  Diana.  Local  tradition  calls  it  a  Temple  of  Minerva ;  but  the 
temple  of  that  goddess,  described  by  Cicero  in  his  speeches  against 
Verves  as  a  sumptuous  edifice  containing  the  most  costly  treasures, 
most  probably  stood  at  the  S.E.  extremity  of  the  island.  The 
interior  of  the  cathedral  is  of  no  great  interest.  The  pilasters 
separating  the  nave  from  the  aisles  occupy  the  place  of  the  ancient 
walls  of  the  cella.  The  font,  formerly  in  8.  Giovanni,  consists 
of  an  antique  marble  basin  with  traces  of  a  Greek  inscription. 

The  Museum,  situated  opposite  the  N.  side  of  the  cathedral, 
Piazza  Minerva  No.  10,  in  the  corner,  is  open  daily  8-1  o'clock. 
The  director  is   Cav.  Targia;  the  custodian  Salv.  Politi  (p.  315). 

The  most  interesting  object  in  the  collection  is  the  famous  "Statue  of 
Venus,  found  by  M.  Landolina  in  1804  in  the  Bonavia  garden  ;  the  exe- 
cution is  admirable  and  the  figure,  somewhat  above  life-size,  is  almost 
entirely  preserved  except  the  head;  the  character  is  that  of  the  early 
ideals  of  Venus.  A  colossal  "Head  of  Zeus,  an  ancient  Male  Torso,  a 
Greek  Tomb  Relief  (boy  and  elderly  man) ,  and  Statue  of  ^Esculapius  are 
also  noteworthy.  Then  a  Head  of  Medusa  in  bronze  ,  an  early  Christian 
sarcophagus ,  inscriptions ,  vases,  terracottas,  and  Roman  statues  from  the 
Buonfardeci  garden  (p.  325),  of  inferior  interest. 

Above  the  museum  is  a  Library  with  9000  vols,  and  a  few  MSS., 
open  10-12. 

From  the  S.  angle  of  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  the  Via  Maniaci 
leads  us  in  3  min.  to  the  mythological  Fountain  of  Arethusa, 
which  has  recently  been  enclosed  in  a  semicircular  basin.  The 
nymph  Arethusa ,  pursued  hither  from  Elis  by  the  river  -  god 
Alpheus,  is  said  to  have  been  metamorphosed  by  Diana  into  this 
fountain.  The  Greeks  may  have  discovered  and  thus  named  a 
natural  spring  on  the  rocky  island,  but  this  fountain,  which  still 
pours  an  abundant  stream  into  its  basin,  embellished  with  papyrus- 
plants,  is  most  probably  supplied  by  one  of  the  remarkable  con- 
duits which  pass  under  the  small  harbour  and  bring  water  to  the 
town  from  the  Achradina.  Many  other  shafts  of  these  conduits  are 
also  observed  in  the  island,  such  as  the  Pozzo  di  S.  Fitippo.  The 
gate  leading  to  the  fountain  is  opened,  if  desired,  by  the  custodian 
who  lives  near  (5  soldi). 

The  Passegginta  Arelusa  affords  a  pleasant  walk  and  a  view  of 
the  harbour. 


320      Route  U.  SYRACUSE.  Achradina. 

The  ruins  of  a  so-called  Temple  of  Diana  in  the  Casa  San- 
toro ,  in  the  Vico  di  8.  Paolo  (key  kept  by  Salv.  Politi) ,  are 
more  probably  those  of  a  temple  of  Apollo.  This  very  remarkable 
Greek  temple,  which  recent  excavations  have  brought  to  light,  was 
a  peripteral  hexastyle  of  unusual  length ,  and  must  have  been 
flanked  by  at  least  nineteen  columns  on  each  side.  A  very  early 
inscription  on  the  highest  step  of  the  basement,  unfortunately 
mutilated,  is  supposed  to  refer  to  the  foundation  of  the  edifice 
and  its  dedication  to  Apollo. 

The  other  antiquities  in  the  town  (remains  of  baths,  etc.)  are 
of  inferior  interest.  Among  the  remains  of  mediaeval  architec- 
ture, the  *Palazzo  Montalto  (Str.  S.  Giacomi  and  Vicolo  Montalto) 
deserves  mention.  The  cattle  at  the  S.E.  extremity  of  the  island 
contains  a  Gothic  portal ,  permission  to  see  which  may  be  obtained 
through  an  officer  of  the  garrison. 

II.  Ancient  Syracuse. 

Syracuse  was  the  largest  of  the.  Hellenic  cities.  Strabo  states 
that  its  circumference  was  180  stadia  (20  M.).  It  consisted  of  five 
distinct  portions :  — 

L  The  island  Obtygia,  the  oldest  part  of  the  city. 

2.  The  town  on  the  precipitous  coast  to  the  N.  of  the  island, 
called  the  Achradina  ,  one-half  being  situated  on  the  plateau  of 
limestone-rock,  the  other  half  between  the  latter  and  the  great  har- 
bour ,  excluding  a  small  portion  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  small  har- 
bour which  Dionysius  had  enclosed  with  a  lofty  wall  and  added  to 
the  island.  To  the  latter  belonged  the  Small  Harbour  (sometimes 
erroneously  called  the  Marble  Harbour),  which  lay  between  the  wall 
end  the  island.  —  The  W.  wall  of  the  Achradina,  constructed  by 
Gelon  ,  may  still  be  traced  by  the  remnants  which  extend  towards 
the  S.  from  the  tonnara  of  S.  Panagia,  passing  the  Campagna  Gar- 
gallo.  Near  the  point  where  the  roads  from  Noto  and  Floridia  con- 
verge, the  wall  of  Achradina  probably  abutted  on  the  Great  Harbour, 
which  was  also  flanked  with  quays.  Towards  the  sea  this  secure  part 
of  the  town,  which  could  never  be  reduced  by  violence,  was  defend- 
ed by  a  lofty  wall.  Here  were  the  Market  with  Colonnades,  the 
Banks ,  the  Curia ,  where  the  national  assemblies  were  held,  the 
Pcntupylon  and  the  Prytaneum.  The  latter  lay  opposite  to  the 
island,  to  the  right  of  the  present  road  to  Catania  (see  p.  321), 
where  the  Timolconteum ,  with  stadium  and  hippodrome ,  and  a 
Temple  of  Zeus  Olympius  also  rose. 

It  is  not  easy  to  determine  with  equal  certainty  the  limits  of  the 
other  parts  of  the  city  which  lay  to  the  W.  of  the  Achradina,  on  the 
plateau,  which  contracts  as  it  extends  upwards  towards  the  Epipols 
or  fortress. 

3.  Tyche  ,  on  the  N.  side,  derived  its  name  from  a  temple  of 
Fortune. 


Epipolae.  SYRACUSE.  41.  Route.      321 

■4.  Neapolis,  situated  to  the  iS.  ,  on  the  terrace  abffve  the  great 
harbour ,  and  which  during  the  Roman  period  descended  to  the 
plain  as  tar  as  the  left  side  of  the  road  to  Floridia ,  was  named  Te- 
menides  at  the  time  of  the  Athenian  siege.  Here  were  situated  the 
Greek  Theatre ,  the  so-called  Ara ,  the  Roman  Amphitheatre ,  the 
Baths  in  the  garden  of  Buonfardeci ,  the  Latomia  del  Paradiso  and 
of  S.  Venera,  and  the  Street  of  Tombs. 

5.  The  Epifol.e  ,  the  highest  point  of  the  city,  formed  the  W. 
angle  of  the  trilateral  plateau,  and  was  so  named  by  the  Syracusans, 
as  we  are  informed  by  Thucydides,  from  being  'above  the  city'.  At 
the  time  of  the  Athenian  siege  this  point  was  as  yet  unconnected 
with  the  city,  although  not  left  unguarded.  The  Athenians  took  it 
by  storm  ,  constructed  Labdalon ,  an  intrenchment  on  the  N.  side, 
and  erected  a  wall  extending  from  the  harbour  Trogilus  in  a  curve 
round  Achradina ,   Tyche ,    and  the  Temenites  to  the  great  harbour. 

The  merit  of  surrounding  these  four  districts  by  a  City-wall, 
constructed  of  huge  blocks  of  stone,  is  due  to  Dionysius  I.  The  N. 
portion  was  probably  erected  about  402.  Within  20  days,  it  is  said, 
60,000  workmen  with  6000  yoke  of  oxen  constructed  30  stadia 
(3y2  M. )  of  the  wall,  but  the  work  was  not  completed  till  385. 

The  whole  of  the  enclosed  space  could  not  have  been  covered  with 
houses,  hut  every  trace  of  these  having  completely  disappeared,  the  only 
clue  to  the  extent  to  which  the  ground  was  so  occupied  consists  of  the 
number  of  wells  which  still  exist.  Two  vast  Aqueducts  supplied  the  citv, 
one  of  which  was  fed,  high  among  the  mountains,  by  the  Btttligliara,  an 
affluent  of  the  Anapus ,  whence  it  conveyed  the  water  by  subterranean 
channels,  several  miles  long,  up  to  the  level  of  the  Epipol*.  It  is  there 
seen  flowing  near  the  summit  uncovered ,  after  which  it  is  precipitated 
from  the  height  near  the  theatre,  and  finally  empties  itself  into  the  har- 
bour. The  other  aqueduct  descends  from  Monte  Crimili,  the  Thymbris  of 
Theocritus,  and  also  ascends  to  the  level  of  the  Epipolae  ,  after  which  it 
skirts  the  N.  city-wall,  sending  several  branches  southwards  to  the  Achra- 
dina. It  then  turns  to  the  S.,  proceeding  along  the  coast,  descends  under 
the  small  harbour,  and  finally  emerges  as  Arethusa  on  the  island.  Since 
the  earthquake  of  1169  its  water  has  been  salt.  In  calm  weather  in 
winter  the  spot  may  be  distinguished  in  the  small  harbour  where  the 
water  wells  upwards  from  below  ,  at  the  point  where  the  damaged  part 
of  the  aqueduct  lies.  The  course  of  this  channel  is  traced  by  means  of 
the  numerous  rectangular  apertures  hewn  in  the  rocky  plateau,  in  which, 
far  below,  flowing  water  is  detected.  As  these  openings  (spiragli)  do  not 
occur  for  a  long  way  between  the  Epipolse  and  the  other  parts  of  the 
town,  we  may  assume  that  this  space  (now  called  Terracati)  was  unin- 
habited. The  Athenians ,  as  is  well  known ,  cut  off  the  supply  of  one 
aqueduct.  The  point  where  this  was  effected  is  said  to  be  recognisable 
between  Euryalus  and  Belvedere. 

Crossing  the  fortifications  of  the  inner,  and  then  (7  min.)  those 
of  the  outer  town-gate,  we  come  in  5  min.  more  to  a  circular  space 
from  which  three  roads  diverge.  That  to  the  left  leads  to  Noto 
(p.  277);  that  in  a  straight  direction  is  the  Floridia  and  Palazzolo 
road,  which  leads  past  the  railway-station  (pp.  277,  276).  The  road 
to  the  right  forks  after  a  few  hundred  paces,  the  right  and  narrower 
branch  leading  to  the  Cappuccini  (p.  325),  and  the  left  branch 
to  Catania.      The  latter  divides  the  ancient  city  into  two  nearly 


322      Route  41.  SYRACUSE.      Latomia  del  Paradiso. 

equal  parts :  on  the  E.  (right)  lies  the  Achradina,  on  the  W.  (left) 
Neapolis  and  Epipolae ,  to  the  N.  Tyche.  Our  description  begins 
with  the  more  important  and  interesting  W.  half. 

a.     Western  Portion. 

Amphitheatre.   Latomia  del  Paradiso  and  di  Sta.  Venera.   Hecatomb  Altar. 
Theatre.  Street  of  Tombs.  Euryalus. 

In  a  meadow,  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  right  of  the  above 
named  circular  space  outside  the  fortifications ,  we  observe  an  un- 
lluted  column,  which  was  probably  a  fragment  of  a  once  magnificent 
forum  (Agora).  Not  far  from  this  column  passes  the  road  to  Catania, 
from  which  the  road  to  the  Cappuccini  immediately  diverges  to  the 
right  (see  p.  325). 

The  Catania  road  then  crosses  the  railway  and  ascends  gradually. 
After  V2  M.,  at  the  point  where  we  observe  the  rose-window  of  the 
church  of  S.  Giovanni  (p.  326)  on  the  right,  our  road  is  crossed  by 
another.  Following  the  latter  to  the  left  we  reach  (5  min.)  a  small 
osteria  and  the  house  of  the  Custode  delle  Antichita.  (His  services 
are  necessary  for  the  Latomia  only,  but  he  also  accompanies  visitors 
to  the  Amphitheatre  and  the  Greek  Theatre ;   1/2  fr-) 

Opposite  the  custodian's  house  a  path  to  the  left  leads  in  a  few 
minutes  to  the  Amphitheatre,  a  Roman  structure  of  the  period  of 
Augustus,  77  yds.  in  length  and  44  yds.  in  width  and  apparently 
destitute  of  subterranean  chambers.  Numerous  blocks  of  marble 
from  the  ancient  parapet  lie  scattered  in  the  arena  ,  some  of  them 
bearing  inscriptions  with  the  names  of  the  proprietors  of  the  seats 
which  they  adjoined. 

About  150  paces  farther,  to  the  left  of  the  path,  is  the  (closed) 
entrance  to  the  great  Altar  of  Hiero  11.  It  is  related  of  that  mon- 
arch that  he  erected  an  altar,  a  stadium  (202  yds.)  in  length ;  and 
this  structure  is  probably  the  same,  being  215  yds.  in  length  and 
25  yds.  in  width.  Here  probably  were  sacrificed  the  hecatombs  of 
450  oxen,  which  were  annually  offered  to  commemorate  the  expul- 
sion of  the  tyrant  Thrasybulus. 

Opposite  is  the  entrance  to  the  *Latomia  del  Paradiso,  an  an- 
cient quarry  hewn  in  the  rock  to  a  depth  of  35-45  yds.  ,  and  now 
overgrown  with  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation.  These  latomie, 
which  form  one  of  the  characteristics  of  Syracuse ,  yielded  the  ma- 
terial of  which  the  city  was  built.  Some  of  them  («.  y.  the  Latomia 
Novantieri)  are  of  later  origin  than  the  aqueducts.  They  were  also 
used  as  burial-places,  and  they  sometimes  formed  prisons  for  captive 
enemies  who  were  compelled  to  work  in  them.  On  some  of  the  iso- 
lated masses  of  rock  traces  of  the  guard-houses  of  the  sentries  are 
said  to  be  still  distinguishable  (?).  The  Latomia  del  Paradiso  con- 
tains the  *Ear  of  Dionysius,  so  named  in  the  16th  cent.,  a  grotto 
hewn  in  the  rock  in  the  form  of  the  letter  S.,  210  ft.  deep,  74  ft. 
in   height,   and    15-35  ft.   in   width,    contracting  towards  the  sum- 


Greek  Theatre.  SYRACUSE.  41.  Route       323 

mit,  and  possessing  a  very  remarkable  acoustic  peculiarity.  The 
slightest  sound  in  the  grotto  is  heard  by  persons  at  the  upper  end, 
and  produces  a  strong  reverberation  at  the  entrance.  It  is  related 
of  Dionysius  that  he  constructed  prisons  with  such  acoustic  proper- 
ties that  at  a  certain  point  he  could  detect  every  word  spoken  in 
them,  even  when  whispered  only,  and  this  grotto  has  been  arbi- 
trarily assumed  to  be  one  of  these.  The  custodian  awakens  the 
echoes  by  firing  a  pistol  (5  soldi).  The  neighbouring  Latomia  di 
Sta.  Venera,  although  less  interesting,  is  also  worthy  of  a  visit. 

The  road  then  passes  under  the  modern  arches  of  the  aqueduct, 
and  leads  past  an  osteria  to  the  *Greek  Theatre.  This  was  the 
largest  Greek  structure  of  the  kind,  after  those  of  Miletus  and 
Megalopolis,  and  was  erected  between  480  and  40G.  It  is  hewn 
in  the  rock  in  a  nearly  semicircular  form,  165  yds.  in  diameter. 
Distinct  traces  of  the  forty-six  tiers  of  seats  are  still  visible,  and 
it  is  estimated  that  fifteen  more  must  have  extended  as  far  as  the 
summit  of  the  excavation.  The  nine  cunei  were  intersected  by 
a  broad  and  a  narrow  praecinctio,  on  the  former  of  which  are  seen 
various  Greek  inscriptions ,  recording  the  names  of  King  Hiero, 
the  Queens  Philistis  and  Nereis,  and  Zeus  Olympius,  after  whom 
the  different  compartments  were  respectively  named.  Philistis  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  second  wife  of  Hiero  I.,  and  Nereis  to 
have  been  his  daughter-in-law.  The  eleven  lower  grades  only 
were  covered  with  marble.  The  hill  on  which  the  theatre  stands 
commands  a  superb  **View,  particularly  towards  sunset ,  of  the 
town,  the  harbour,  the  promontory  of  Plemmyrium,  and  the  ex- 
panse of  the  Ionian  sea. 

Above  the  theatre  is  the  Nymphaeum,  a  grotto  into  which  two 
water-conduits  issue.  Epitaphs  were  formerly  inserted  in  the  sur- 
rounding walls.  To  the  N.  is  the  entrance  to  the  last  sinuosity  of 
the  Ear  of  Dionysius  (see  above). 

From  the  upper  part  of  the  theatre  the  rock-hewn  Street  of  the 
Tombs  (Via  delle  Tombe)  ascends  to  the  left.  In  the  sides  are 
numerous  cavities  and  tomb-chambers ,  all  of  which  have  been 
despoiled  of  their  contents  and  decorations.  We  follow  this  route 
to  the  (5  min.)  summit  of  the  plateau,  and  then  proceed  to  the 
left  along  the  aqueduct  and  (3  min.)  past  a  small  house.  In  a 
few  minutes  more  we  reach  a  rough  road  coming  from  the  neigh- 
bouring road  to  Catania  on  the  right,  and  we  follow  it  to  the  left 
(N. )  past  a  large  and  conspicuous  uncompleted  building  on  the 
right.  After  o  min.  we  turn  to  the  left  again.  In  i/i  hr.  we  pass 
a  farm-building  enclosed  by  a  white  wall.  The  road  contracts  to  a 
footpath,  which  runs  nearly  parallel  with  an  ancient  aqueduct  hewn 
in  the  rock.  Inclining  to  the  right  a  little  farther  on,  we  shall 
reach  Fort  Euryalus  in  l/i  hr.  more.  To  the  left  we  enjoy  a  view 
over  the  plain  in  which  lay  the  Roman  Neapolis,  with  the  sump- 
tuous   temples    of  Demeter  and  Persephone  erected  by  Gelon   in 

21* 


324      Route  41.  SYRACUSE.  Euryalus. 

480  with  the  proceeds  of  spoil  taken  from  the  Carthaginians.  On 
the  height  which  we  now  traverse  were  situated  the  ancient 
Neapolis  and  Temenites  ;  and  within  the  latter  stood  the  Temenos 
of  Apollo,  with  the  statue  of  the  god,  which  Verres  attempted  to 
carry  off,  and  which  was  afterwards  conveyed  to  Rome  by  Tiberius. 
On  the  right,  farther  on ,  we  pass  the  Buffalaro  hill,  from  the 
quarries  of  which  Dionysius  procured  stone  for  the  city-wall.  It 
was  here  that  the  tyrant  is  said  to  have  confined  the  poet  and 
philosopher  Philoxenus  for  having  disparaged  his  verses  (thence 
named  Latomia  del  Filosofd). 

After  about  3/4  hr.  we  cross  the  walls  which  belonged  to  the 
Epipolse',  and  which  now  extend  along  the  higher  ground  on  our 
right,  and  on  arriving  at  the  "W.  extremity  of  the  city  we  ascend 
to  the  Fort  *Euryalns  ( now  called  Mongilellesf),  the  point  where 
the  N.  and  S.  walls  erected  by  Dionysius  on  the  table-land  con- 
verged. It  forms  the  extremity  of  the  Epipolae ,  and  terminates 
towards  the  W.  in  four  massive  towers,  surrounded  by  two  deep 
fosses  hewn  in  the  rock.  (The  custodian,  who  is  seldom  on  the  spot 
owing  to  its  remoteness,  should  be  enquired  for  beforehand  at  the 
hotels.  Gentlemen ,  however ,  may  explore  the  different  passages 
without  assistance.)  From  the  first  of  these  fosses  diverge  a 
number  of  subterranean  outlets,  connected  with  each  other,  and 
forming  passages  accessible  to  infantry,  and  even  cavalry,  com- 
municating with  the  great  court  behind  the  towers.  Another 
subterranean  passage  leads  to  a  fort  situated  on  the  line  of  the  city- 
wall  farther  N.  In  the  rocks  opposite  these  apertures  are  hollows 
which  were  probably  used  as  magazines.  Those  to  the  right  con- 
tain inscriptions  of  letters  or  numbers  which  have  not  yet  been 
deciphered. 

About  V2  nr-  farther  is  the  miserable  village  of  Belvedere  (poor 
osteria),  which  lies  on  the  narrow  W.  ridge  extending  from  the 
hill  of  the  Epipolaj  towards  the  mountains,  and  beyond  the  pre- 
cincts of  the  ancient  fortifications.  Immediately  beyond  the  village 
rises  the  *Telegrafo  (610  ft.  above  the  sea),  a  hill  crowned  with  a 
conspicuous  white  tower,  and  commanding  an  excellent  survey  of 
the  site  of  ancient  Syracuse.  The  view  to  the  N.,  however,  is  still 
finer:  to  the  left  rises  the  Mte.  Crimiti,  the  ancient  Thymbris,  on 
which  one  of  the  old  aqueducts  takes  its  rise;  then  iEtna  in  the 
distance;  in  the  background  the  mountains  of  the  E.  coast  of 
Sicily,  and  more  to  the  right  the  mountains  of  Calabria. 

The  Mil  of  Belvedere  is  sometimes  supposed  to  he  the  Euryalus,  and 
the  point  ahove  described  as  the  Euryalus  would  then  be  the  Fort  Lab- 
dalon.     (On  our  map  both  names  are  erroneously  given  at  the  latter  place.) 

The  N.  side  of  the  Epipolse  is  bounded  by  the  Wall  of  Diony- 
sius. Halfway  between  the  Euryalus  and  the  point  where  the  road 
to  Catania  intersects  the  city-wall  probably  stood  the  Athenian  Fort 
of  Labdalon  (p.  321).  In  the  valley  below  lay  Leon,  whence  the 
Athenians  stormed  the  Epipolae. 


S.  Lucia.  SYRACUSE.  41.  Route.      325 

The  Euryalus  may  also  be  reached  from  Syracuse  by  the  Floridia 
road,  passing  the  railway-station.  A  little  beyond  the  3rd  kilo- 
mt'tre-stone  (2  M.)  our  road  diverges  to  the  right,  passes  some  farm 
buildings  after  40  min.,  gradually  contracts,  and  ascends  to  the 
(20  min.)  white  building  of  an  old  monastery,  from  which  Eurya- 
lus is  reached  in  '/2  nr-  more.  This  route  may  be  taken  in  re- 
turning. 

In  tlie  Buonfardeci  garden,  not  far  from  the  railway-station,  the 
remains  of  a  Roman  Palfestra  were  excavated  in  1864. 

b.    Eastern  Portion. 

S.  Lucia.    Latomia  de'  Cappuccini.     Villa  Landolina.     Latomia  Casale. 
S.  Giovanni  and  the  Catacombs. 

This  part  of  the  ancient  city  consists  chiefly  of  the  Achradina, 
remains  of  the  fortifications  of  which  may  be  distinctly  traced  on 
all  sides.  It  is  separated  from  the  island  of  Ortygia  by  the  Small 
Harbour,  which  Dionysius  formed  by  throwing  an  embankment 
across  the  open  sea,  and  the  narrow  entrance  of  which  was  capable 
of  being  closed. 

We  may  either  follow  the  road  diverging  to  the  right  from  the 
Catania  road  near  the  solitary  column  already  mentioned  (comp. 
p.  322),  or  we  may  effect  a  considerable  saving  by  crossing  the 
small  harbour  directly  from  the  town  (25  c).  Those  who  follow 
the  road  will  pass,  1/4  hr.  from  the  gate,  the  landing-place  of  the 
boats,  where  remains  of  ancient  boat-houses  are  still  to  be  seen  in 
the  water. 

At  this  point  the  road  divides.  The  right  branch  skirts  the 
coast,  crosses  the  railway-cutting  by  a  bridge,  and  leads  direct  to 
the  Capuchin  monastery  (25  min.;  see  below).  The  left  branch 
crosses  the  railway  immediately,  turns  to  the  right,  and  leads  to- 
wards the  conspicuous  campanile  of  Sta.  Lucia,  a  church  erected 
in  the  11th  cent,  on  the  spot  where  the  tutelary  saint  of  the  town 
is  said  to  have  suffered  martyrdom,  but  frequently  restored.  The 
W.  Portal  is  the  only  part  of  the  original  church  still  existing. 
Over  the  high  altar,  the  Martyrdom  of  the  saint,  by  Caravaggio ; 
a  passage  from  the  right  transept  leads  past  the  tomb  of  the  saint 
to  a  Round  Church,  partly  subterranean,  containing  a  statue  of  the 
saint,  of  the  school  of  Bernini.  • —  To  the  left  of  the  church  a 
road  leads  to  (8  min.)  S.  Giovanni  (see  below). 

Passing  to  the  right  of  S.  Lucia,  and  after  10  min.,  above  the 
cypress-planted  modern  cemetery  (Hypogeum),  turning  to  the  right 
again,  we  reach  (5  min.)  a  suppressed  Capuchin  Monastery,  now 
a  farm,  where  refreshments  are  to  be  had.  The  neighbouring 
'Latomia  de'  Cappuccini  is  one  of  the  wildest  and  grandest  of  these 
ancient  quarries,  and  it  was  here  probably  that  the  7000  captive 
Athenians  languished  (key  at  the  farm,  30-50  c). 

We  retrace  our  xteps,  but  after  5  min.,  above  the  cemetery,  we 


326      Route  41.  SYRACUSE.  Catacombs. 

go  straight  on  by  a  low  wall,  and  in  5  min.   more  reach  a  road  as- 
cending to  the  upper  Achradina. 

Following  this  road  to  the  left  between  garden-walls  for  5  min., 
we  reach  the  Villa  Landolina  (last  door  on  the  right),  situated  in 
a  small  latomia  ,  and  containing  the  tomb  of  the  German  poet 
A.  v.  Platen  (d.  1835).  —  A  few  paces  farther  we  reach  a  road 
coming  from  S.  Lucia ;  we  follow  it  to  the  right,  and  turning  to  the 
right  again  after  3  min.  we  observe  the  facade  of  S.  Giovanni  be- 
fore us. 

If  we  do  not  visit  the  Villa  Landolina,  we  cross  the  road  men- 
tioned above  which  ascends  to  the  Achradina,  and  go  straight  on. 
On  the  right,  after  5  min.,  is  the  Latomia  Casale,  worthy  of  a 
visit  for  the  sake  of  the  well-kept  flower-garden  laid  out  in  it  by 
the  Marchese  Casale  (a  few  soldi  to  the  gardener).  —  From  this 
point  we  perceive  the  Catania  Toad  and  to  the  left  the  church  of 
S.  Giovanni,  to  the  portal  of  which  the  path  leads. 

S.  Giovanni  was  founded  in  1182,  but  afterwards  frequently 
restored,  so  that  parts  of  the  W.  facade,  with  the  rose-window  and 
the  portal,  are  all  that  remain  of  the  original  building.  A  flight 
of  steps  descends  from  the  church  to  the  Crypt  of  St.  Marcian, 
where  St.  Paul  is  said  to  have  preached.  This  lower  church,  built 
in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  Sicily. 
On  each  side  is  an  apse,  except  on  the  W.  where  it  is  approached 
by  steps.  It  contains  the  tomb  of  St.  Marcian,  who  is  said  to  have 
suffered  martyrdom,  bound  to  one  of  the  granite  columns  now  here 
placed.     On  the  walls  are  the  remains  of  old  frescoes. 

Near  S.  Giovanni  is  the  entrance  to  the  Catacombs.  (On  leav- 
ing the  church  we  turn  to  the  left  for  a  few  paces  and  reach  the 
custodian's  house  opposite  a  good  osteria ;  fee  i/2  fr.) 

The  Catacombs  of  Syracuse  are  among  the  most  imposing 
burial-places  of  the  kind,  and  they  extend  under  the  greater  part 
of  the  lower  Achradina  in  several  stories,  which  are  estimated  to 
have  an  aggregate  length  of  9  M.  The  date  of  their  construction 
cannot  now  be  ascertained.  That  the  early  Christians  buried  their 
dead  here  is  proved  by  inscriptions  and  frescoes  on  the  walls, 
but  the  origin  of  the  excavations  is  probably  much  more  remote. 
They  may  also  possibly  have  been  used  as  quarries.  The  recent 
discovery  in  other  localities  of  the  Phoenician  mortuary  chambers, 
which  resemble  these  catacombs  in  their  formation,  has  given  rise 
to  the  belief  that  they  date  from  a  pre-Hellenic  epoch.  Other 
ramifications  of  the  catacombs  were  recently  discovered  near  the 
sea  during  the  construction  of  the  railway. 

The  Catania  road  passes  within  a  few  hundred  paces  to  the  E. 
of  S.  Giovanni ;  and  we  reach  it  at  the  point  where  the  path  to  the 
Amphitheatre  and  the  Greek  Theatre,  already  described,  diverges. 
—  About  5  min.  to  the  N.  of  that  point,  to  the  left  of  the  road, 
are  the  so-called  Tombs  of  Timoleon  and  Archimedes  ,  with  Doric 


Olympieum.  SYRACUSE.  41.  Route.      327 

facades,  and  arbitrarily  named.  The  tomb  of  Archimedes,  which 
was  rediscovered  by  Cicero,  was  probably  outside  the  town. 

If  time  permits ,  the  traveller  should  not  omit  to  follow  the 
Catania  road  to  the  N.  as  far  as  the  point  where  it  intersects  the 
ancient  fortifications  of  the  Tyche  quarter  and  descends  to  the  coast 
(Scala  Graeca),  4  M.  from  the  town-gate.  Th  *view  thence  of  the 
sea  and  yEtna  is  one  of  the  finest  near  Syracuse.  —  We  may  then 
follow  the  hills  to  the  right  as  far  as  the  tonnara,  and  return  along 
the  boundary  of  the  Achradina,  the  fortifications  of  which  are  still 
partly  traceable. 

When  the  sea  is  calm,  a  pleasant  *Excoksion  bt  Boat  (l'/2-2  fr.)  may 
he  made  to  the  caverns  in  the  coast  of  the  Achradina,  situated  beyond 
the  rocky  islets  of  the  Due  Fratelli,  between  the  small  harbour  and  the 
Capo  Panagia  (the  Grotta  di  Neltuno  and  others). 

III.  The  Anapo.   Olympieum  and  Cyane. 

This  excursion  takes  3-4  hrs.,  and  is  usually  made  in  a  boat  with 
three  rowers  (to  the  Cyane  Fountain  6-8  fr.  and  fee).  If  the  sea  is  rough, 
travellers  may  prefer  to  drive  to  the  mouth  of  the  Anapo.  The  trip  up 
the  river  is  pleasant,  hut  very  troublesome  for  the  boatmen  owing  to  its 
narrowness  and  the  thickness  of  the  water-plants.  Walkers  may  ascend 
by  a  small  embankment  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  as  far  as  the 
papyrus  plants,  but  the  spring  itself,  on  account  of  its  marshy  environs 
can  only  be  reached  by  boat.  —  The  two  columns  of  the  Olympieum, 
which  are  of  no  great  interest,  may  be  visited  either  in  going  or  returning. 
The  hill  can  only  be  approached  on  the  E. ,  N. ,  or  K.W.  side,  as  the 
ground  on  the  other  sides  is  very  marshy. 

The  road  to  Noto,  which  leads  to  the  S.W.  of  the  circular  space 
mentioned  at  p.  321 ,  runs  at  first  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
shore  of  the  Great  Harbour,  traversing  the  swamps  of  Syraca  and 
Lysimelia.  Beyond  the  2nd  kilometre-stone  (1^4  M.)  it  crosses 
the  Anapo  (Anapus),  which  rises  on  the  hills  to  the  W.  and  falls 
into  the  harbour  of  Syracuse  after  a  winding  course  of  about  16  M. 
A  footpath  skirts  the  right  bank  of  the  stream,  and  then  ascends  on 
the  bank  of  the  Cyane  brook  which  falls  into  the  Anapo  2/3  M. 
above  its  mouth. 

On  a  height  (60  ft.  above  the  sea)  not  far  from  the  confluence 
of  the  two  streams ,  stands  a  conspicuous  and  solitary  pair  of 
columns.  A  rough  road  leads  towards  them  from  the  Anapo  bridge 
in  10  min.,  but  before  it  enters  a  hollow  we  take  a  footpath  to  the 
right.  These  very  mutilated  columns,  to  which  the  path  does  not 
lead  the  whole  way,  stand  in  the  middle  of  the  fields,  and  now 
form  the  sole  remains  of  the  famous  Olympieum,  a  temple  of  the 
Olympian  Zeus ,  dating  from  the  earliest  Syracusan  period  (pe- 
ripteral hexastyle).  Gelon  provided  the  statue  of  Zeus,  the  beauty 
of  which  is  extolled  by  Cicero,  with  a  golden  robe  from  the  spoil 
of  Himera,  which  Dionysius  I.  removed  as  being  'too  cold  in  winter, 
and  too  heavy  for  summer'.  —  As  this  was  a  point  of  strategic  im- 
portance, it  was  usually  made  the  basis  of  operations  when  the 
city  was  besieged.  In  493  Hippocrates  of  Gela  established  his  head- 


328      Route  41.  SYRACUSE.         Fountain  of  Cyane . 

quarters  here.  At  the  beginning  of  the  Athenian  siege  (415)  the 
Olympieum  was  taken  by  Nicias  by  a  coup  de  main ,  but  from  re- 
verence for  the  god  he  did  not  venture  to  take  possession  of  the 
valuable  treasures  it  contained.  At  a  later  period  the  Syracusans 
fortified  it  and  surrounded  it  with  the  small  fortified  town  of  Po- 
lichne  ;  but  this  did  not  prevent  Himilco  in  386  and  Hamilcar  in 
310  from  pitching  their  camps  here;  and  in  212  Marcellus  suc- 
ceeded in  gaining  possession  of  the  spot.  The  surrounding  marshes, 
however,  were  fraught  with  peril  to  the  besiegers.  Fine  view  of 
Syracuse.  Near  the  Olympieum  were  situated  the  handsome  monu- 
ments of  Gelon  and  his  self-sacrificing  wife  Damarata. 

The  upper  part  of  the  Fiume  Chini,  or  Cyane  Brook,  is  remark- 
able for  the  great  luxuriance  of  the  surrounding  vegetation.  On 
both  banks,  particularly  in  autumn,  rise  lofty  papyrus-plants,  some 
of  them  20  ft.  in  height,  planted  here  by  the  Arabs,  and  imparting 
a  strange  and  almost  tropical  character  to  the  scene.  The  stream 
has  its  source  in  the  Fountain  of  Cyane,  the  'azure  spring',  into 
which  the  nymph  of  that  name  was  metamorphosed  for  venturing 
to  oppose  Pluto  when  he  was  carrying  Proserpine  to  the  infernal 
regions.  The  Syracusans  used  to  celebrate  an  annual  festival  in 
honour  of  Persephone  (Proserpine)  here.  The  clear  spring,  which 
abounds  in  fish,  and  is  bordered  with  papyrus,  is  now  called  La 
Pisma. 

42.    Excursion  to  Malta. 

See  Map  of  Sicily. 

The  Steamers  of  the  Florio  Co.  afford  a  convenient  opportunity  of  visit- 
ing the  island  of  Malta  from  Syracuse.  They  start  onee  weekly  (Mondays) 
at  11  p.m.,  reach  Malta  about  7.30  next  morning,  and  quit  it  again  at  9 
p.  m.  Return-tickets  at  a  reduction  uf  20  per  cent.  Fare  to  or  from  the 
.steamer  1  shilling.  Fares  from  Malta  to  Tunis  or  Sicily  must  be  paid  in 
gold.  Passports  are  sometimes  asked  for  on  the  traveller's  arrival  and 
departure.  Those  who  intend  returning  to  Sicily  the  same  evening  should 
devote  the  forenoon  to  the  town  (harbour,  cathedral,  and  palace  of  the 
governor),  then  drive  to  Citta  Yecchia  (p.  330),  about  6  31.  distant  (calesse, 
a  kind  of  gig ,  there  and  back  4-5  fr.).  —  Steamboats  also  ply  between 
Malta  and  Tunis  three  times  monthly  in  22  hrs.,  fare  21.  8s.  (see  p.  344) ; 
to  Tripoli  twice  monthly  in  25-30  hrs.  ;  by  Gibraltar  to  England  every 
Friday  (but  enquiry  should  be  made  beforehand). 

The  group  of  the  islands  of  Malta,  Qozzo,  and  Comino  lies 
56  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  coast  of  Sicily,  174  M.  from  the  S.  ex- 
tremity of  Italy,  and  187  M.  from  the  African  coast.  N.  latitude 
of  La  Valetta,  the  capital,  35°  54';  E.  longitude  14°  31'.  Malta  is 
171/2M.  in  length,  and  8  M.  in  breadth;  with  Gozzo  it  has  an  area 
of  116  sq.  M.  and  a  population  of  149,000  souls,  of  whom  about 
10,000  are  English  and  foreigners.  The  climate  is  hot  (mean 
temperature  in  winter  57°,  in  summer  77°  Fahr.).  The  island 
rises  precipitously  from  the  sea  in  the  form  of  a  sterile  rock, 
and  appears  at  first  sight  entirely  destitute  of  vegetation,  the 
fields  and  gardens  being  enclosed  by  lofty    walls    and  terraces  of 


MALTA.  42.  Route.      329 

stone.  Through  the  indefatigable  industry  of  the  inhabitants 
the  barren  surface  has  been  converted  into  luxuriantly  fertile 
arable  land,  partly  by  the  process  of  pulverising  the  upper  stra- 
tum of  rock,  and  partly  by  the  importation  of  vegetable  soil. 
The  produce  yielded  is  rarely  less  than  fifteen  to  twenty  fold, 
whilst  in  some  favoured  spots  it  amounts  to  fifty  or  sixty  fold. 
After  the  hay  or  corn  harvest  in  May  and  June  the  land  is 
generally  sown  for  the  second  time  with  cotton.  Fruit  is  very 
abundant,  especially  oranges  and  figs.  The  natives  are  a  mixed 
race,  being  descendants  of  the  various  nations  who  have  at  dif- 
ferent periods  been  masters  of  the  island.  Their  language  is  a 
corrupt  dialect  of  Arabic  mingled  with  Italian  (lingua  Maltese). 
Most  of  the  visitors  and  residents  of  the  higher  classes  are  Eng- 
lish  ,  but  Italian  is  generally  understood.  The  Maltese  are  well 
known  throughout  the  Mediterranean  as  an  enterprising  seafaring 
and  commercial  people.  Their  island  is  indebted  to  its  central 
position  for  the  great  strategic  importance  which  it  has  ever  pos- 
sessed. Being  a  convenient  station  on  the  route  to  the  East,  and 
boasting  of  an  admirable  harbour,  the  island  is,  like  Gibraltar,  one 
of  the  principal  bulwarks  of  the  naval  supremacy  of  England. 

Malta  is  supposed  to  be  identical  with  the  island  of  Oyygia  mentioned 
by  Homer,  where  the  nymph  Calypso,  the  daughter  of  Atlas,  whose  cavern 
is  still  pointed  out,  is  represented  as  having  enslaved  Odysseus.  The  Phoe- 
nicians of  Sidon  most  probably  founded  a  colony  here  at  a  very  early  pe- 
riod, after  which  Greek  settlers  repaired  to  the  island  (about  the  year  B.  C. 
736).  The  island ,  then  called  Melite ,  with  a  capital  of  the  same  name, 
was  conquered  by  the  Carthaginians  about  B.  C.  400,  and  afterwards  (in 
B.  C.  212)  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Romans.  The  latter  erected  temples 
to  Apollo  and  Proserpine,  and  a  theatre,  a  few  traces  of  which  still  exist. 
In  the  autumn  of  A.D.  56  St.  Paul  was  wrecked  on  the  N.  coast  of  the 
island,  and  converted  several  of  the  inhabitants  to  Christianity.  In  454 
Malta  was  conquered  by  the  Vandals,  in  464  by  the  Goths,  in  533  by  Beli- 
sarius  for  the  E.  Empire,  in  870  by  the  Arabs,  and  again  in  1090  by  the 
Normans  under  Roger,  by  whom  it  was  united  with  the  kingdom  of  Sicily. 
It  then  shared  the  fortunes  of  Sicily  down  to  1530,  when  the  Emperor 
Charles  V.  presented  the  island  to  the  knights  of  St.  John  after  their 
expulsion  from  Rhodes  by  the  Turks.  The  order  now  assumed  the  title  of 
knights  of  Malta,  and  gallantly  defended  the  island,  which  had  become  one 
of  the  great  bulwarks  of  Christianity ,  against  the  repeated  attacks  of  the 
Turks.  The  most  fearful  siege  they  sustained  was  that  of  1565,  when  they 
were  attacked  by  the  principal  armament  of  Sultan  Soliman  II.  under 
Mustapha  and  Piale.  In  consequence  of  this  event  the  Grand  Master  Jean 
de  Lavalette  founded  the  town  of  Lavalette  (now  the  capital),  which  is 
regarded  as  impregnable.  On  17th  June,  1798,  Buonaparte,  when  on  his 
way  to  Egypt,  gained  possession  of  the  town  through  treachery,  but  on 
8th  Sept.,  1800,  after  a  siege  of  two  years,  it  was  captured  by  the  English, 
who  have  since  been  masters  of  the  island,  and  govern  it  mainly  in  ac- 
cordance with  its  ancient  laws  and  institutions. 

La  Valetta.  —  "Hotel  Imperial,  pension  8s.;  'Dansfield;  : Cam- 
bridge ;  'Angleteere  ;  !Croce  di  Malta,  all  of  the  first  class  and  in  the 
English   style.  —  Commissionnaire  5-6  fr.  per   day. 

English  money  is  the  currency  of  the  island ,  but  French  and  Italian 
gold  are  also  in  common  circulation. 

La  Valetta,  the  capital  of  the  island,  erected  in  1566-71, 
with  about  70,000  inhab.,   rises  in  an  amphitheatrical  form  on  a 


330      Route  42.  MALTA. 

promontory,  which  is  surrounded  by  deeply  indented  bays.  The 
Harbour  on  the  S.E.  side  ,  defended  by  Fort  St.  Elmo  and  other 
batteries,  is  considered  almost  impregnable.  The  garrison  consists 
of  2000-3000  men,  besides  the  vessels  of  war  stationed  here.  The 
harbour,  one  of  the  best  on  the  Mediterranean,  being  well  sheltered 
and  upwards  of  60  ft.  deep ,  presents  a  busy  scene ,  in  which 
various  Oriental  elements  are  observable.  The  streets  ascend  preci- 
pitously from  the  quay,  often  by  means  of  long  flights  of  steps, 
and  are  far  superior  in  cleanliness  to  those  of  other  towns  on  the 
Mediterranean.  The  Str.  Reale,  extending  from  St.  Elmo  to  the 
Porta  Reale,  a  distance  of  more  than  i/2  M.,  is  the  principal  street. 
The  richly  decorated  cathedral  of  S.  Giovanni,  dating  from 
1576,  contains  monuments  of  Grand  Masters  and  knights  of  the 
Maltese  Order,   grouped  according  to  their  nationality. 

1st  Chapel  on  the  right  (del  Crocifisso):  Beheading  of  St.  John,  altar- 
piece  by  Mich.  Angelo  Caruvaggio.  —  2nd  Chapel,  Portuguese  :  monuments 
of  Manoel  Pinto  and  the  Grand  Master  Manoel  de  Vilhena,  the  latter  en- 
tirely of  bronze.  —  3rd  Chape),  Spanish:  monuments  of  four  Grand 
Masters ,  the  largest  being  those  of  Roccafeuil  and  N.  Coloner.  —  4th 
Chapel,  Provencals.  —  5th  Chapel,  delta  Vergine,  richly  decorated  with 
silver:  town-keys,  taken  from  the  Turks,  are  preserved  here  as  trophies. 

—  To  the  left  of  the  principal  entrance  is  the  bronze  monument  of  the 
Grand  Master  Marc  Antonio  Zondadario.  —  1st  Chapel  on  the  left  (or 
Sacristy)  contains  a  few  portraits.  —  2nd  Chapel,  Austrians.  —  3rd 
Chapel,  Italians:  pictures  (St.  Jerome  and  Mary  Magdalene)  attributed  to 
Caravaggio.  —  4th  Chapel,  Frenchmen  :  monuments  of  two  Grand  Masters 
and  of  Prince  Louis  Philippe  of  Orleans  (d.  1808).  —  5th  Chapel,  Bava- 
rians. —  A  staircase  descends  hence  to  a  vault  containing  the  sarcophagi 
of  L'Isle  Adam,  the  first  Grand  Master,  La   Valette,  and   several  others. 

The  Palace  of  the  Governor  contains  a  collection  of  pictures 
(insignificant)  and  a  number  of  interesting  weapons  and  trophies 
of  the  period  of  the  knights.  —  The  Houses  of  the  different 
nationalities  (such  as  the  Auberge  de  Provence ,  d'Auveryne ,  de 
France,  and  d' Italic,  the  last  the  finest)  have  all  undergone  con- 
siderable change.  —  Adjacent  to  the  palace  is  the  handsome  build- 
ing of  the  Library,  with  about  40,000  vols,  and  a  few  Phoenician 
and  Roman  antiquities  found  in  the  island.  Pleasant  Walks  along 
the  ramparts,  which  are  adorned  with  numerous  statues  of  Grand 
Masters  and  of  English  Governors.  The  best  point  of  view  is  at 
the  Baracca  Nuova.    The  Botanic  Garden  is  also  a  favourite  resort. 

—  On  the  E.  side  of  the  harbour  lies  the  older  part  of  the  town, 
called  the  Borgo  or  Citta  Vittoriosa,  inhabited  by  the  lower  classes. 
Farther  distant  is  the  Burmula,  or  Citta  Cospicua,  with  its  new 
docks;  and  lastly  the  Senglea  or  Isola.  The  entrance  to  the  har- 
bour   here  is  commanded  by  the  fort  of  Ricasoli. 

An  aqueduct,  begun  in  1610,  with  numerous  arches  intersect- 
ing the  environs,  supplies  the  town  with  water.  The  Palace  of 
S.  Antonio,  the  residence  of  the  Governor,  with  a  large  and  well- 
kept  garden  (visitors  admitted) ,  is  about  4J/2  M.  distant.  The 
fortified  Citta  Vecchia,  or  La  Notabile,  2  M.  farther,  the  ancient 
capital  of  the  island,   contains  a  few  relics  of  the  Roman  period. 


SARDINIA.  43.  Route.       331 

The  richly  decorated  Cathedral  is  said  to  occupy  the  site  of  the 
house  of  Publius,  who  when  governor  of  the  island  accorded  a 
hospitable  reception  to  i>t.  Paul  (Acts ,  xxxviii).  The  terrace 
commands  an  extensive  prospect.  The  church  of  S.  Paolo  is  erected 
over  a  grotto  which  is  said  to  have  been  occupied  by  the  Apostle 
during  the  three  months  of  his  stay  on  the  island.  The  sacristan 
also  shows  some  catacombs  in  the  vicinity.  —  II  Boschetto ,  an 
extensive  public  garden  which  may  be  visited  if  time  permits, 
lies  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Citta  Vecchia. 

Comino,  an  island  2  M.  long,  and  ll/t  M.  broad,  is  almost 
uninhabited.  Gozzo,  which  is  9  M.  in  length,  and  4  M.  in  width, 
and  well  cultivated,  was  the  ancient  Gaulos,  the  site  of  a  Phoe- 
nician, and  afterwards  of  a  Roman  town.  La  Torre  de*  Giaanti, 
constructed  of  blocks  of  rock  without  mortar,  possibly  belonged  to 
a  Phoenician  temple. 


43.     Sardinia. 

Steamboats  f Sociela  Rtibattino).  a.  Fkom  Leghorn  weekly  (Frid. 
6  a.m.)  direct  to  Cagliari  in  34  hrs.,  and  weekly  (Thurs.  3  p.m.)  along 
the  E.  coast,  touching  at  Terranova  (p.  341)  and  Tortoli,  in  38  hrs.;  also 
weekly  (Thurs.  3  p.  m.)  direct  to  Porto  Torres  (Sassari)  in  21  hrs.,  and 
weekly  (Sund.  10  a.  m.)  via  Bastia  in  Corsica  and  the  island  of  Madda- 
Iena  in  30  hrs.  —  b.  From  Civita  Vf.cchia  weekly  (Wed.  3  p.  m.)  via 
Maddalena  to  Porto  Torres  in  24  hrs.  —  c.  Fkom  Naples  to  Cagliari 
weekly  (Sat.  2  p.  m.)  in  30  hrs.  —  d.  Fkom  Palermo  to  Cagliari  fort- 
nightly (Sat.)  in  24  hrs.  —  e.  From  Tunis  to  Cagliari  weekly  in  18  hrs. 
—  f.  From  Ajaccio  to  Porto  Torres  weekly  in  7  hrs. 

Geography  and  Climate.  Sardinia  (ital.  Sardegna,  Greek  Sardo), 
situated  between  38°  52'  and  41"  16'  N.  latitude,  and  separated  from 
Corsica  by  the  Strait  of  Bonifacio,  is  119  M.  distant  from  Africa,  140  M. 
from  Italy,  and  180  M.  from  Sicily,  and  next  to  the  latter  is  the  largest 
island  in  the  Mediterranean.  Its  length  from  N.  to  S.  is  174  M.,  its 
breadth  from  E.  to  W.  70  M.,  area  9463  sq.  M.,  population  (in  1871) 
636,6  0  souls.  About  nine-tenths  of  the  island  are  mountainous;  the  only 
extensive  plain  is  that  which  lies  between  the  bays  of  Cagliari  and 
Oristano.  The  mountains,  corresponding  in  direction  with  those  of  Cor- 
sica, stretch  from  N.  to  S.  ;  their  chief  formation,  especially  in  the  N. 
portion,  is  granite,  next  to  which  are  tertiary  rocks,  here  and  there  broken 
by  extinct  volcanoes.  The  central  part  of  the  island  is  much  less  elevated 
than  Corsica,  but  of  considerably  greater  breadth.  Bruncv  Spina,  the 
highest  peak  of  the  Gennargentv,  is  6266  ft.  in  height.  There  are  no 
rivers  of  importance  in  the  island  ;  the  largest  is  the  Tirso,  which  falls 
into  the  Bay  of  Oristano ;  the  Dosa  descends  to  the  E.  coast,  and  the  Coghinas 
to  the  N.  —  Sardinia  is  surrounded  by  a  number  of  smaller  islands,  such  as 
Asmara,  La  Maddalena,  Caprera  (residence  of  Garibaldi),  and  Tavolara  on 
the  N.,  and  S.  Antioco  and  S.  Pietro  on  the  S.W.  The  coast  is  somewhat 
monotonous  and  uninteresting ;  the  finest  part  is  on  the  S.  side,  where 
the  Bay  of  Cagliari  is  situated.  Sardinia  was  once  one  of  the  granaries  of 
Rome,  hut  owing  to  the  sparseness  of  the  population  has  now  lost  all  claim 
to  such  a  distinction.  A  large  proportion  of  the  soil  is  uncultivated,  whilst 
among  the  mountains  about  one-fifth  of  the  area  is  clothed  with  forest.  The 
chief  exports  are  the  commodities  yielded  by  the  mines  (lead  the  most 
abundant;    then   silver,   iron,   copper,   brown   coals,   etc.),   the  produce  of 


332      Route  43.  SARDINIA.  Antiquities. 

which  is  said  to  have  increased  tenfold  within  the  last  twenty  years. 
Jlost  of  them  are  worked  by  foreign  capitalists.  Agriculture  is  also  grad- 
ually improving.  In  all  respects,  however ,  the  island  is  far  inferior  in 
development  and  civilisation  to  the  mainland.  In  the  first  place  roads  for 
the  transport  of  the  products  of  the  country  to  the  coast  are  much  wanted. 
Then  the  malaria,  or  Intemperie  as  it  is  called  here,  renders  the  island, 
with  the  exception  of  the  larger  towns,  uninhabitable  for  strangers  from 
July  to  October.  Fever,  which  prevails  principally  on  the  low  ground, 
frequently  extends  its  ravages  to  a  considerable  height,  in  consequence  of 
which  the  mines  are  deserted  during  the  period  above  mentioned.  The 
climate  of  Sardinia  has  always  been  regarded  as  unhealthy,  but  the  evil 
has  been  greatly  aggravated  by  the  defective  culture  of  the  soil.  The 
natives,  however,  appear  to  be  habituated  to  dangers  which  would  often 
prove  fatal  to  strangers.  The  principal  precaution  they  use  consists 
in  wearing  fleeces,  a  usual  costume  of  the  Sardinian  shepherds,  who, 
to  the  no  small  surprise  of  travellers,  present  the  appearance  of  being 
closely  enveloped  in  fur  under  the  scorching  rays  of  a  July  sun.  Another 
great  obstacle  to  the  prosperity  of  Sardinia  is  the  deplorably  defective 
state  of  education,  in  which  respect  the  island  is  behind  all  the  other  pro- 
vinces of  Italy.  Out  of  10,000  inhabitants  8798  were  in  1872  unable  to  read 
or  write  (in  Lombardy  5332,  in  Sicily  8722). 

Customs  anu  Chakactekistics.  The  Sardinians,  with  the  exception  of 
the  inhabitants  of  Cagliari  and  Sassari,  have  as  yet  been  little  influenced  by 
the  modern  advances  of  civilisation,  and  in  remote  districts  the  traveller  may 
imagine  himself  transferred  to  a  period  several  centuries  earlier.  The  in- 
habitants, who  are  probably  of  the  same  race  as  the  Corsicans,  and  belong 
to  the  Iberian  family,  more  resemble  the  Spaniards  than  the  Italians  in 
character,  and  this  peculiarity  was  doubtless  confirmed  by  the  long  duration 
of  the  Spanish  supremacy.  Their  demeanour  is  grave  and  dignified  compared 
with  that  of  the  vivacious  Italians,  and  exhibits  a  frequent  tendency  to 
melancholy,  harmonising  well  with  the  sombre  black  and  white  of  their 
nationalcostume.  The  latter  consists  of  a  blouse  of  black  cloth  without 
sleeves  (colettu),  black  gaiters  (borzagliinos),  a  black  Phrygian  cap  (baretta), 
white  knee-breeches,  and  white  shirt  sleeves  adorned  on  festive  occasions 
with  large  and  handsome  gold  buttons.  The  long  gun  slung  across  the 
back  is  rarely  discarded  even  by  the  peasants  while  tilling  the  soil,  and 
a  curved  knife  in  a  sheath  of  leather,  frequently  of  the  dimensions  of 
a  small  sabre,  completes  their  equipment.  The  fierce  and  warlike,  dispo- 
sition of  the  ancient  Sardinians  still  manifests  itself  in  the  revengeful 
spirit  of  their  descendants ,  which  occasionally  leads  to  deadly  feuds 
and  is  a  serious  obstacle  to  the  increase  of  the  population.  The  num- 
ber of  assassinations  is  computed  at  1000  annually.  jThese  faults,  however, 
are  to  some  extent  counterbalanced  by  the  sterling  virtues  peculiar  to  a 
primitive  and  untutored  race,  viz.  their  unwavering  fidelity  to  their  sover- 
eign, their  chivalric  sense  of  honour,  and  their  hospitality.  National  poetry 
is  carefully  cultivated,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  plaintive  character.  The  lan- 
guage consists  of  a  number  of  dialects,  differing  widely  in  many  of  their 
roots ;  several  of  them  closely  resemble  Spanish  ,  or  rather  Latin  (e.  g. 
bona  dies  ,  good  day).  Strangers  will  find  it  utterly  impossible  to  under- 
stand or  make  themselves  understood  anywhere  except  in  the  larger  towns. 

Antiquities.  The  antiquities  of  Sardinia  are  also  in  keeping  with  the 
other  peculiarities  of  the  country.  Those  which  date  from  the  periods  of 
the  Carthaginian  and  Roman  supremacy  or  from  the  middle  ages  are  far 
inferior  to  those  of  Italy  and  Sicily.  Unusual  interest,  however,  attaches  to 
the  curious  relics  of  a  far  more  remote  and  even  pre-historic  epoch.  These 
are  the  so-called  Ntiragghi  or  A'oraghe,  found  in  no  other  district,  except 
in  the  Balearic  Islands  ,  where  they  are  called  Talayots.  They  are  conical 
monuments  with  truncated  summits,  30-60  ft.  in  height,  35-100  ft.  in 
diameter  at  the  base,  constructed  of  unhewn  blocks  of  stone  without  mor- 
tar. They  are  situated  either  on  isolated  eminences  among  the  mountains, 
or  on  artificial  mounds  on  the  plains.  They  generally  contain  two  or 
three    conically    vaulted    chambers,     one    above    the    other,    and    a    spiral 


SARDINIA.  43.  Route.      A66 

staircase  constructed  in  the  thick  walls  ascends  to  the  upper  stories. 
General  La  Marmora  once  counted  3000  towers  of  this  kind  in  the  island, 
and  their  number  is  still  very  great,  although  the  advance  of  agriculture 
has  necessitated  the  removal  of  many  of  them.  Of  the  various  conjectures 
which  have  been  formed  as  to  the  purpose  served  by  these  enigmatical 
structures,  the  most  common  and  probable  is  that  they  are  monumental 
tombs,  erected  by  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the  island.  The  Giants' 
Graves  ( Tumbas  de  los  Gigantes)  ,  oblong  piles  of  stones  3-6  ft.  in  breadth 
and  15-36  ft.  long  ,  are  believed  to  belong  to  the  same  remote  period.  The 
Perdas  fttas,  or  Perdas  lungas,  monuments  of  stone  corresponding  to  the 
Celtic  menhirs  and  dolmens,  are  of  much  rarer  occurrence  in  Sardinia. 

Travelling.  A  visit  to  Sardinia,  although  now  easily  accomplished  by 
steamboat,  will  hardly  interest  the  ordinary  tourist.  Nature,  which  has  so 
bountifully  lavished  her  favours  on  many  of  the  lands  of  the  south,  has 
indeed  by  no  means  withheld  a  due  share  from  the  island.  But  the  traveller 
will  hardly  find  these  attractions  a  sufficient  inducement,  unless  combined 
with  scientific  objects,  or  with  the  desire  to  explore  a  peculiar  and  semi- 
barbarous  country.  With  the  exception  of  excellent  fishing  and  shooting, 
amusements  of  any  kind  must  of  course  not  be  expected.  The  traveller 
will  naturally  desire  to  see  more  of  the  country  than  the  district  traversed 
by  the  high  road  from  Sassari  to  Cagliari,  but,  if  he  quit  this  main  route, 
he  will  generally  find  himself  dependent  for  food  and  lodging  on  the  hos- 
pitality of  the  natives.  Letters  of  introduction  to  some  of  the 'inhabitants 
of  Sassari  or  Cagliari  are  therefore  most  desirable ;  and,  once  provided 
with  these,  the  stranger  will  have  little  .difficulty  in  procuring  others  to 
enable  him  to  make  his  way  through  the  greater  part  of  the  island.  Sar- 
dinian hospitality  is  remarkable  for  the  cordiality  and  courtesy  with 
which  it  is  accorded ,  and  it  affords  an  admirable  opportunity  of  observ- 
ing the  character  and  customs  of  the  island  and  its  natives.  The  eti- 
quette of  the  household  of  his  host  may,  however,  frequently  prove  irk- 
some to  the  weary  traveller,  who  will  sometimes  be  obliged  to  wait  several 
hours  before  he  can  satisfy  the  cravings  of  his  unwonted  appetite.  The 
upper  classes  generally  dine  between  1  and  2  o'clock ,  and  sup  between 
9  and  11.  Remuneration  for  hospitality  is  invariably  declined,  but  a 
liberal  fee  should  be  given  to  the  servants  (2-5  fr.  per  day  according  to 
circumstances).  Brigandage  was  formerly  unknown  in  Sardinia,  but  has 
occasionally  been  heard  of  within  the  last  few  years,  owing  probably  to 
failure  of  crops   and  scarcity  of  provisions. 

The  most  suitable  season  for  a  visit  to  Sardinia  is  from  the  middle  of 
April  to  the  middle  of  June,  after  which  dangerous  fevers  are  very  preva- 
lent down  to  the  beginning  of  November.  Diligences,  similar  to  those  on  the 
mainland,  run  on  the  principal  high  roads  daily;  but  the  most  interesting 
points  in  the  island  cannot  be  reached  by  carriage,  and  the  traveller  must 
have  recourse  to  riding,  which  is  here  the  characteristic  and  universal  mode 
of  locomotion.  The  Sardinian  horses  are  small,  active,  and  enduring;  their 
usual  pace  is  an  ambling  trot  of  4-5  31.  an  hour,  and  they  are  admirably 
adapted  for  traversing  the  precipitous  forest-paths  which  are  the  sole  means 
of  communication  between  the  villages  of  the  interior.  Strangers  cannot 
possibly  find  these  paths  unaided,  and  as  moreover  the  language  cannot  be 
understood  except  through  the  medium  of  an  interpreter,  the  services  of  a 
guide  are  indispensable  in  the  more  remote  districts.  A  guide  (viandante) 
with  two  horses  for  a  single  excursion  or  for  a  tour  of  several  days  may 
generally  be  engaged  even  at  the  smaller  villages.  The  charges  depend 
on  a  variety  of  circumstances,  e.  g.  the  demand  for  agricultural  labour,  etc., 
and  are  therefore  liable  to  considerable  fluctuations.  Thus,  for  the  journey 
from  Oristano  to  Fordungianus  (a  ride  of  3'|2  hrs.),  7  fr.  were  recently  paid 
tor  the  services  of  a  man  and  two  horses ;  from  Fordungianus  to  Tonnara 
(8  hrs.)  10  fr. ;  from  Tonnara  to  the  summit  of  the  Gennargentu  and  back 
(6  hrs.)  5  fr.  for  a  man  with  one  horse;  from  Tonnara  to  Nuoro  (10'|2  hrs.) 
15  fr.  for  a  man  and  two  horses.  These  payments  were  regarded  as  amply 
remunerative.  For  a  tour  of  considerable  length  the  traveller  is  recom- 
mended  to  secure  the  services   of  a  viandante   well   acquainted  with  the 


334      Route  43.  SARDINIA.  History. 

country,  for  the  whole  expedition.  This  is  a  very  attractive  mode  of 
travelling,  and  many  hours  and  even  days  may  be  spent  in  traversing 
beautiful  wooded  districts  without  a  single  human  habitation  being  encoun- 
tered. In  such  oases,  however,  a  supply  of  provisions  and  wine  must  not 
be  forgotten.  Whilst  the  traveller  selects  the  side  of  some  well  shaded, 
gurgling  spring  for  a  halting-place,  the  horses  generally  find  luxuriant  her- 
bage in  the  neighbourhood,  and  will  seldom  be  interrupted  in  their  repast, 
as  the  pastures  in  the  sparsely  peopled  parts  of  the  island  are  regarded 
as  common  property.  On  such  occasions  the  appearance  of  a  Sardinian 
mountaineer  in  his  wild  and  quaint  costume  may  awaken  apprehensions  as 
to  the  safety  of  one's  purse,  but  the  inoffensive  salutation  of  'bona  dies' 
will  speedily  reassure  the  traveller.  The  country  will  be  found  replete  with 
attractions,  but  the  villages  are  generally  dull  and  uninteresting,  and  appa- 
rently quite  excluded  from  all  connection  with  the  external  world. 

Railways.  The  following  lines  were  open  in  1876:  —  1.  From  Ca- 
gliari to  Oristano,  59  M.  —  2.  From  Cagliari  to  Iglesias,  34  31.,  identical 
with  the  first  as  far  as  (10  M.)  Decimomannu.  —  3.  From  Ozieri  via 
Sassari  to  Porto  Torres,  41/2  M. 

History.  Of  the  more  civilised  nations  of  antiquity  the  Phoenicians 
from  Carthage  were  the  earliest  masters  of  the  island.  They  founded  several 
towns  on  the  coast,  such  as  Caralis,  the  modern  Cagliari,  where  they  con- 
centrated the  traffic  of  the  island.  During  their  supremacy,  and  even  during 
that  of  their  successors  the  Romans,  the  interior  of  the  island  preserved 
its  independence  to  some  extent.  Traces  of  the  Phoenician  epoch  are 
recognisable  in  a  few  Punic  inscriptions  still  extant,  and  especially  in  the 
innumerable  little  idols  of  bronze,  the  distorted  figures  of  which  accord 
with  the  peculiar  character  of  the  Phoenician  religion.  Scarabsei,  or  stones 
cut  in  the  form  of  beetles  and  worn  in  rings,  presenting  a  thoroughly 
Oriental  appearance,  are  also  frequently  found,  and  doubtless  belong  to 
the  same  period.  In  B.C.  238,  shortly  after  the  1st  Punic  War,  Sardinia 
was  wrested  from  the  Carthaginians  by  the  Romans ,  who  found  it  an  in- 
valuable acquisition  on  account  of  the  productiveness  of  its  fields  and  its 
mines.  Criminals  condemned  for  grave  offences,  and  subsequently  numerous 
Christians,  were  compelled  to  work  in  these  mines.  The  Romans  themselves 
shunned  the  island  as  being  unhealthy  and  imperfectly  cultivated,  whilst 
they  manifested  little  partiality  for  the  proud  and  independent  spirit  of 
the  natives,  which  neither  war  nor  persecution  could  entirely  extinguish. 
Great  numbers  of  the  inhabitants  were  brought  to  Rome  and  sold  as  slaves 
at  a  merely  nominal  price,  for  even  during  servitude  they  maintained 
their  indomitable  character  and  formed  no  very  desirable  acquisition  to 
their  purchasers  (whence  the  Roman  expression  Sardi  venules,  'as  cheap 
as  a  Sardinian'). 

In  458  the  Vandals  made  an  expedition  against  Sardinia  from  Africa 
and  conquered  the  island.  Under  Justinian,  in  533,  it  was  recaptured  for 
the  Eastern  Empire.  The  weakness  of  the  latter,  combined  with  the  un- 
remitting attacks  of  the  Saracens,  favoured  the  gradual  rise  of  native 
princes,  who  recognised  the  pope  as  their  patron  and  protector.  When  at 
length  the  Arabs  began  to  establish  themselves  permanently  in  the  island, 
John  XVIII.  preached  a  crusade  against  the  infidels,  promising  to  bestow 
the  island  on  those  who  should  succeed  in  expelling  them.  This  was 
effected  by  the  united  efforts  of  the  Genoese  and  Pisans ,  and  their  rival 
claims  were  decided  in  favour  of  Pisa  in  1025.  The  island  was  divided 
into  four  districts,  Cagliari,  Torres  or  Logudoro,  Gallura,  and  Arborea, 
which  were  presided  over  by  'GiudicC  or  judges.  Neither  Genoa,  however, 
renounced  her  claim,  nor  the  papal  see  its  supremacy;  and  the  Giudici, 
profiting  by  these  disputes,  succeeded  meanwhile  in  establishing  themselves 
as  independent  princes,  and  governed  the  island  in  accordance  with  its 
national  laws  and  customs.  In  1297  Boniface  VIII.  invested  the  kings  of 
Arragon  with  Sardinia,  and  they,  after  protracted  struggles,  succeeded  in 
putting  down  the  pretensions  of  Genoa,  as  well  as  those  of  Pisa.  The 
most  distinguished  of  the  native  princes  was  the  Uiudichessa  Eleonora  of 
Ai-lmrea  (d.  14041,  whose  contests  with  Arragon  and  whose  code  of  laws, 
I  he  -Carta  de   Lkijii"  (del  luogoi.    attained  great  local  celebrity.     This  code 


Literature.  SARDINIA.  43.  Route.      '6'6b 

was  constituted  the  law  of  the  whole  island  by  Alphonso  of  Arragon  in 
1421,  and  Eleonora's  name  is  still  the  most  popular  among  those  of  the 
earlier  history  of  Sardinia.  In  1455  a  parliament  ((Jortes)  was  established, 
consisting  of  three  estates  (stainenti),  the  nobles,  the  clergy,  and  the  towns, 
whose  principal  business  was  the  voting  of  taxes.  Under  Ferdinand  the 
Catholic  in  1479  the  native  princes  were  deprived  of  their  independence, 
and  the  island  was  now  governed,  to  the  universal  satisfaction  of  the  inha- 
bitants, by  Spanish  Viceroys.  After  the  War  of  Succession  Spain  was  com- 
pelled by  the  Peace  of  Utrecht,  in  1714,  to  surrender  the  island  to  the 
House  of  Austria ,  who  in  1720  ceded  it  to  Victor  Amadeus  II.,  Duke  of 
Savoy,  in  exchange  for  Sicily.  Thenceforth  Sardinia  participated  in  the 
fortunes  of  this  family,  and  afforded  it  refuge  and  protection  during  the 
supremacy  of  Napoleon.  A  determined  attack  on  the  island  by  the  French, 
accompanied  by  Buonaparte  himself,  in  1793,  proved  a  signal  failure. 
In  consequence  of  the  Treaty  of  Paris  in  1720  the  Duke  of  Savoy  assumed 
the  title  of  King  of  Sardinia,  which  he  exchanged  in  1861  for  that  of 
King  of  Italy. 

Topography.  Sardinia  is  divided  into  two  provinces  and  eleven  districts, 
the  former  being  named  after  the  two  principal  towns,  Cagliari  and  Sassari, 
respectively.  The  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  is  divided  among  three  arch- 
bishops (those  of  Cagliari,  Sassari,  and  Oristano)  and  eleven  bishops.  The 
coinage,  weights ,  and  measures  are  the  same  as  those  of  the  mainland. 
The  old  Sardinian  lira  contained  4  reali ,  of  5  soldi  each,  and  was  worth 
1  fr.  92  c,  the  soldo  being  worth  about  10  c. 

Literature.  The  most  eminent  explorer  of  Sardinia  was  the  general 
Count  Alberto  Ferrero  della  Marmora  (b.  1789,  d.  1863),  who  devoted  his 
whole  life  to  the  task.  His  principal  work  is  the  '  Voyage  en  Sardaigne  ou 
description  staiistique,  physique,  et  politique,  de  cette  Isle\  Paris  et  Turin, 
1839-60,  5  vols.  The  two  last  vols,  contain  an  Itineraire  de  Flsle  de 
Sardaigne,  destined  for  the  use  of  travellers.  An  admirable  'Carta  deW 
Isola  e  Regno  di  Sardegna'',  in  two  sheets  (pub.  1845,  with  additions  down  to 
1860,  price  4  fr.),  has  also  been  published  by  the  same  author,  a  work  which 
alone  cost  him  upwards  of  80,000  fr.  —  A  history  of  Sardinia  down  to  1773 
was  published  in  1825  by  Baron  Giuseppe  JIanno  (Torino),  and  has  gone 
through  several  editions.  The  same  author  also  wrote  a  Storia  Moderna 
(1773-99) ,  which  appeared  in  1842  and  again  in  1858  (Le  Jlonnier ,  at 
Florence),  containing  a  short  review  of  the  earlier  history.  The  effects 
of  the  French  revolution  on  Sardinia  and  the  attacks  of  the  French  upon 
the  island  are  here  fully  and  attractively  described.  Antiquarian  research 
in  Sardinia  has  been  chiefly  promoted  by  the  patriotic  Canonico  Giovanni 
Spano,  Rector  of  the  university  of  Cagliari  (Bullettino  Archeologico  Sardo, 
with  several  smaller  annual  publications). 

Cagliari. 

Hotels  (poor  and  comparatively  dear).  Progresso,  R.  2'/2-3,  A.  >/2  fr.; 
Concordia,  dirty,  similar  charges,  D.  at  12.30  o'clock  3J/2  fr. 

Restaurants.  "Scala  di  Ferro,  Via  di  S.  Rosalia;  Trattoria  Italiana, 
near  the  university  (line  view  at  the  back) ;  Trattoria  del  Teatro,  at  the 
foot  of  the  road  to  the  castle.  —  Cafes.  '-Bella  Venezia,  Via  Costa,  with 
garden  and  line  view,  :,:Borsa  (formerly  Telegrafo),  near  the  quay.  — 
Swiss  Confectioner  (Offelleria  Svizzera),  Piazza  Porta  Villanuova  3.  —  Beer 
at  Boggetti's  brewery,  on  the  Buon  Cammino  Promenade. 

Baths.     ' Bagni  Cerruti,  Via  S.  Rosalia  22. 

Post  Office,  not  far  from  the  cathedral.  —  Telegraph  Office,  Porta 
Villanuova. 

Steamboats,  see  p.  331.  —  Landing  or  embarcation,  with  luggage  1  fr. 

Railway  to  Oristano  and  to  Iglesias,  p.  338. 

Diligences.  Office,  Contrada  Zenne  (to  the  left  when  reached  from 
the  large  piazza).  To  Laconi  (p.  343)  once ,  to  S.  Pietro  Pula  (p.  338) 
twice  daily. 

Wine  of  the  country  indifferent.  Yernarria,  a  liner  quality,  strung, 
tut  acid,  2-3  fr.  per  bottle;  Midvnsin  and   Musculo,  sweet. 


oob      Route  J3.  CAGLIAK1.  Sardinia. 

Cagliari,  the  Caralis  of  the  Romans,  a  very  ancient  town 
founded  by  the  Phoenicians,  the  capital  of  the  island,  with  33,000 
inhab.,  lies  on  an  extensive  bay,  bounding  the  flat  district  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  island,  and  terminated  on  the  W.  by  Capo  Sparti- 
vento  and  on  the  E.  by  Capo  Carbonani.  To  the  E.  of  the  town 
projects  the  Capo  di  S.  Elia,  which  forms  one  extremity  of  the 
Golfo  di  Quartu.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  extensive  lagoons, 
the  Stayno  di  Cagliari  on  the  W.  and  the  Stagno  di  Molentargiu  on 
the  E.  side.  These  yield  abundance  of  salt,  which  forms  the  cargo 
of  numerous  vessels,  particularly  from  Sweden  and  Finland,  when 
returning  home  after  having  conveyed  supplies  of  pine-wood  to 
Spain  and  Italy.  Cagliari  is  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  precipitous 
hill,  290  ft.  in  height,  and  consists  of  four  distinct  quarters :  the 
old  town  or  Castello  (.Sard.  Casteddu);  below  it  to  the  E.  the  Villa 
Nuova ;  and  lastly  Marina  and  Stampace. 

The  spacious  Piazza  del  Mercato,  embellished  with  a  bronze 
Statue  of  Charles  Felix  J. ,  erected  in  1800  to  commemorate  the 
construction  of  the  road  to  Porto  Torres,  forms  the  central  point  of 
the  modern  quarters  of  the  town.  The  busiest  street  diverging 
hence  is  the  Contrada  Costa,  now  Via  Manno,  with  numerous 
shops,  where  among  other  things  the  gold  ornaments  commonly 
worn  by  the  country-people  should  be  observed.  It  leads  to  a  small 
piazza,  and  then  descends  to  Villa  Nuova.  To  the  left  it  ascends  in 
two  zigzags  to  the  — 

Castle,  which  still  has  its  ancient  gates,  and  contains  the  chief 
buildings  and  the  palaces  of  the  nobility.  A  small  promenade  laid 
out  on  the  old  bastion  of  S.  ('aterina,  on  the  right,  commands  a 
fine  view. 

The  street  to  the  left  leads  to  the  University,  founded  in  1596 
by  Philip  III.  of  Spain,  and  remodelled  in  1764  by  Charles  Em- 
manuel of  Savoy.  The  library  contains  22,000  vols.;  among  the 
MSS.  are  the  Pergamene  di  Arborea,  which,  except  in  Sardinia 
itself,   are  generally  regarded  as    modern    forgeries. 

The  *  Museum  contains  geological  and  mineralogical  collec- 
tions formed  by  La  Marmora,  whose  bust  is  placed  in  the 
archaeological  saloon ,  and  the  most  complete  collection  of  Sar- 
dinian antiquities  (to  which  valuable  contributions  have  been 
made  by  the  Canonico  Spano) ,  including  epitaphs,  milestones, 
vessels  of  earthenware  and  glass,  coins,  and  numerous  figures  in 
bronze. 

I.  Room.  Cabinet  by  the  wall  of  the  entrance:  terracotta  mask  from 
Tharrus  (p.  33H).  —  II.  Room.  Cabinet  in  the  centre:  handsome  glass 
vessels  of  the  Iiornan  period  from  Cornus  (p.  339),  the  larger  of  which 
were  used  as  cinerary  urns ,  the  ashes  being  deposited  in  earthenware 
receptacles  \  also  two  complete  receptacles  of  this  kind  with  all  the  articles 
found  in  them.  Cabinet  nearest  the  entrance :  Punic  scarabflei  and  gold 
trinkets,  chiefly  from  Tharrus  (71.  Earring  of  delicate  workmanship). 
Cabinet  next  the  window  opposite  the  entrance  :  Punic  earrings,  many  of 
which  resemble  in  form  those  worn   by   the  Sardinian  peasant-women  at 


Sardinia.  CAGLIARI.  43.  Route.      337 

the  present  day.  Cabinet  by  the  other  window :  Sardinian  idols  in  bronze, 
many  of  them  spurious ;  those  next  the  window  are  undoubtedly  genuine. 

Preceding  hence  through  the  Porta  Aquila  under  the  Palazzo 
Boyl,  we  enter  the  fortress. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  old  town  the  main  street  contracts,  and, 
ike  most  of  the  streets  in  Cagliari,  is  badly  paved.  After  a  walk 
of  3  min.  in  a  straight  direction,  we  ascend  a  flight  of  steps  on 
the  right  to  the  *  Cathedral,  completed  in  1312  by  the  Pisans, 
hut  afterwards  altered  and  modernised.  The  tasteless  facade  dates 
from  1703. 

At  the  principal  entrance  are  two  "ambos  with  scenes  from  Scripture 
history.  —  In  the  N.  transept  is  the  tomb  of  Martin  II.  of  Arragon  (d. 
1409).  The  chapels  contain  a  few  monuments  in  the  rococo  style.  —  In 
the  Crypt  is  a  monument  to  the  queen  of  Louis  XVIII. ,  a  princess  of 
Savov  (d.  1810),  and  another  to  the  only  son  of  Victor  Emmanuel  I.  (d. 
1796)'. 

We  next  pass  the  Torre  delV  Elefante,  erected  in  1307  by 
the  Pisans,  as  the  metrical  inscription  records ,  and  reach  the 
Buon  Cammino  promenade,  i/3  M.  in  length,  which  affords  a  line 
survey  of  the  bay  and  the  mountains  rising  above  it.  (A  still 
finer  point  of  view  is  the  Birreria  Boggetti ,  above  the  promenade, 
on  the  right.)  Immediately  beyond  the  (r.)  Carlo  Alberto  bar- 
racks, erected  in  1847,  a  broad  road  descends  from  the  promenade 
to  the  left  to  the  Capuchin  Monastery,  where  there  are  several  rock- 
hewn  reservoirs  once  connected  with  a  Roman  aqueduct.  Op- 
posite the  monastery  is  the  Amphitheatre,  recently  freed  from  rub- 
bish, the  greater  axis  of  which  measures  95^2  yds.  ,  the  lesser 
79  yds.,  while  the  arena  was  about  55  by  34  yds.  A  natural  de- 
pression in  the  rock  which  slopes  hence  towards  the  sea  was 
turned  to  account  in  its  construction  ,  and  most  of  the  rows  of 
seats  are  hewn  in  the  rock,  while  the  open  S.  extremity  was  closed 
by  masonry.  From  the  ruinous  condition  of  the  structure  also  it  is 
obvious  that  economy  was  carefully  observed  in  its  erection  ;  and 
we  thus  obtain  ,  on  comparing  this,  the  most  considerable  ruin  in 
Sardinia,  with  the  magnificent  edifices  of  Italy  and  Southern  France, 
an  additional  indication  of  the  subordinate  importance  attached  to 
the  island  at  that  period. 

The  Environs  of  Cagliari  present  all  the  characteristics  of  a 
southern  land,  the  climate  being  hot,  and  rain  very  rare ;  but  the 
town  itself,  even  in  summer,  is  generally  free  from  fever.  Here, 
as  in  Sicily  and  Africa  ,  the  fields  are  usually  enclosed  with  hedges 
of  cactus.  The  Campidano  di  Cagliari,  an  extensive  plain  stretching 
hence  to  Oristano,   is  fertile  and  tolerably  well  peopled. 

On  a  rocky  plateau,  l1/*  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Cagliari,  is  situated  an 
extensive  Necropolis.  The  route  to  it  first  passes  the  Punic  Tombs,  con- 
sisting of  subterranean  chambers  hewn  in  the  limestone  rock,  with  symbols 
in  the  Egyptian  style  over  the  entrances.  (Caution  must  be  used,  as  many 
of  the  entrances  are  overgrown  with  plants.)  The  majority  of  these  are 
below  the  Casino  Massa.  Farther  W.  are  the  Roman  Tombs.  Many  of 
these  also  border  the  road  to  the  S.,  leading  through  the  Borgo  di  ,H. 
Avendrace.  The  finest  of  them  is  the  Qrolla  delta  Yipera.  with  a  hand' 
Baedekf.r.     Italy  III.     Gth  Edition.  22 


338      Route  39.  CAGLlAltl.  Sardinia. 

some  facade,  the  tomb  of  Atilia  Pomptilla  and  her  husband  Cassius 
Philippus  ,  who  died  here  as  exiles  from  Rome ,  as  we  are  informed  by 
the  Latin  and  Greek  inscriptions.  Excellent  view  from  the  top  of  the 
plateau. 

Fkom  Cagliaki  to  Quaktu  ,  4'/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  (omnibus  twice 
daily  each  way  in  1  hr. ;  coupe  il/2  fr.).  The  road  starts  from  the  Villa- 
nuova  Quarter  of  the  town.  On  the  right  we  have  a  view  of  the  Capo 
di  S.  Elia  and  a  large  swamp  which  is  a  favourite  haunt  of  the  flamingo 
in  spring,  duartu,  a  town  with  6200  inhab. ,  is  wortly  of  a  visit  on  a 
Sunday ,  when  the  rich  costumes  and  curious  gold  ornaments  of  Asiatic 
type  worn  by  the  women  are  seen  in  perfection.  The  old-fashioned  Sar- 
dinian round  dance,  accompanied  by  the  rustic  double  flute,  is  also  some- 
times performed  in  the  piazza  on  Surdays  and  holidays.  The  favourite 
delicacies  on  such  festive  occasions  consist  of  porchettu  (roast  pork)  and 
the  excellent  Malvagia  wine  produced  near  Quartu.  On  21st  May  the 
festival  of  St.  Helena  is  celebrated  here ,  the  main  feature  of  it  being  a 
procession  of  richly  decked  oxen.     (In  1875  there  were  104  pairs.) 

Fkom  Cagliari  to  S.  Makia  di  Buonakia,  1/2  hr.  —  We  follow  the 
road  leading  to  the  E.  from  the  Via  di  Buonaria ,  and  pass  the  remains 
of  the  very  ancient  church  of  <S.  Bardiglio.  The  church  of  S.  Maria  di 
Buonaria  contains  numerous  votive  offerings  from  mariners  and  convicts. 
About  Y2  31.  from  it  there  is  a  large  prison.  In  !/2  hr.  more  we  arrive 
at  the  top  of  the  Capo  S.  Elia,  where  some  rude  attempts  at  hewing  the 
rock  appear  to  indicate  that  an  ancient  settlement  once  existed  here. 

The  S.  E.  angle  of  Sardinia  is  the  wildest  and  least  populous 
portion.     Excursions  towards  the  S.  W.  are  more  interesting. 

To  Pula  17'|2  M.  (by  omnibus,  see  p.  335;  or  on  horseback).  The  road 
intersects  the  Plaia,  a  series  of  sandy  islands  connected  by  numerous 
bridges  and  separating  the  Stagno  di  Cagliari  from  the  sea.  It  passes  Orri, 
where  there  is  a  picturesque  country  seat  of  the  Marchese  Villa  Hermosa; 
then  S.  Pietro  Pula,  and  past  a  ruined  'nurrago1  and  a  Roman  aqueduct 
on  the  promontory  of  Pula  (2  M.)  to  the  church  of  S.  Efisio,  occupying 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Nora,  of  which  a  few  traces  (a  quay,  the  small 
theatre  of  La  Leoniera,  etc.)  are  still  visible.  Pula  possesses  excellent 
spring-water  and  has  therefore  always  been  a  favourite  naval  station.  In 
1804  Nelson  spent  a  considerable  time  here. 

To  Iglesias.  There  are  numerous  mines  in  the  S.W.  part  of  the  is- 
land, of  which  Iglesias  is  the  principal  town.  Railway  thither  (34  51.) 
from  Cagliari;  two  or  three  trains  daily  in  2  hrs. ;  fares  6  fr.  15,  4  fr.  30, 
3  fr.  10  c.  —  The  line  diverges  from  the  main  line  at  Decimomannu 
(p.  339).  Stations  Via,  Siliqua ,  Muse.i.  The  town  of  Iglesias,  pictu- 
resquely situated ,  is  an  episcopal  see  with  a  cathedral  of  1215 ,  and 
possesses  ancient  walls  and  a  castle  which  was  restored  by  the  Arragonese. 
The  town  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  gardens,  the  finest  of  which 
belongs  to  the  Dominicans.  Near  Monte  Poni  (1096  ft.)  in  the  vicinity, 
there  is  a  very  productive  lead-mine.  About  12  M.  farther  along  the 
coast ,  opposite  the  small  island  of  S.  Pietro,  is  situated  Porto  Scuso,  a 
fishing  village,  where  tunny-fish  are  captured  in  great  numbers. 

From  Cagliari  to  Sassari. 

147  II.  The  Railway,  which  generally  follows  the  principal  road  of 
the  island  (Slrada  Ci'tiirale),  is  now  gradually  approaching  completion. 
It  was  begun  many  years  ago ,  and  after  the  works  had  been  abandoned 
for  a  time  the  government  was  obliged  to  resume  them  in  deference  to 
the  anxious  desire  of  the  Sardinians  to  possess  a  railway.  La  Marmora,  al- 
though from  his  partiality  to  the  island  he  did  not  oppose  the  project,  is 
said  to  have  expressed  his  opinion  that  the  receipts  of  the  line  would  not 
pay  for  the  consumption  of  coal.  —  The  line  is  now  open  as  far  as  Ori- 
stano,  59  M.  ;  two  trains  daily  in  '6^/t  hrs.  ;  fares  10  fr.  65,  7  fr.  45,  5  fr.  35  c. 

Diligence  from  Oristano  to  Sassari  daily  in  18-20  hrs.,  starting  from 
Oriitano  at  8  p.m.  —  Those  who  prefer  making  the  journey  by  day  should 


Sardinia.  ORISTANO.  43.  Route.      339 

take  a  carriage  to  JIaconier  (a  drive  of  8  hrs.) ,  siicnd  the  night  and  the 
following  day  there,  and  continue  their  journey  by  diligence  at  3.30  on  the 
following  morning.     Omnibus  not  recommended. 

The  train  traverses  the  extensive  plain  of  Campidano,  and 
passes  the  Stagno  di  Cagliari.  5  M.  Elmas ,  8  M.  Assimini, 
lO'^M.  Decimomannu,  where  the  line  to  Iglesias  (p.  338)  diverges. 

16  M.    Villasor,  20^2  M.   Serramanna,  24  M.   Samassi. 

28  M.  Sanluri  is  a  large  village  with  a  ruined  castle  and  several 
old  churches,  where  a  son  of  the  Arragonese  king  Martin  defeated 
Brancaleone  Doria  in  1409.  The  manners  and  costume  of  the  peas- 
antry here  are  peculiar.  The  houses  in  the  Campidano  are  huilt 
of  spongey,   sun-dried  brick. 

31  M.  8.  Gavino.  To  the  right  we  observe  the  castle  of  Mon- 
reale,  once  the  seat  of  the  Giudici  of  Arborea,  still  in  excellent 
preservation.  Saffron  is  largely  cultivated  here.  36  M.  Pabillonis; 
43  M.  Vras,  in  a  fertile  plain  at  the  base  of  the  volcanic  Monte 
Aroi,  the  scene  of  a  victory  gained  by  the  Marchese  d'Oristano 
over  the  Spanish  viceroy  in  1470. 

48  M.  Marrubiu.  The  train  now  skirts  a  lake,  separated  by 
a  narrow  strip  of  land  only  from  the  Bay  of  Oristano. 

59  M.  Oristano.  Albeego  del  Commeecio,  in  the  Piazza,  poor  and 
not  cheap ;  Teattoria  della  Steada  Ferkata,  Via  del  Portico ,  with 
tolerable  rooms  and  good  cuisine  (bargaining  necessary). 

Diligence  to  Sassari  at  8  p.m.  —  Carriage  to  Macomer  20-30  fr.  ;  bar- 
gain necessary  as  to  the  halt  at  Milis  to  see  the  orange-gardens  ,  and  at 
Paulilatino  to  visit  the  giants'  tombs.  Provisions  for  the  journey  should 
be  taken  from  Oristano. 

Oristano,  a  town  with  7000  inhab.,  the  seat  of  an  archbishop, 
is  situated  on  the  Tirso  in  a  marshy  locality.  It  was  founded  in  the 
11th  cent,  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  ancient  Tharrus.  Many  towers 
of  the  mediaeval  fortifications  are  still  standing.  The  palace  in 
which  the  Giudici  of  Arborea  resided  is  still  pointed  out.  The 
large  Cathedral  of  the  17th  cent,  contains  several  pictures  by 
Marghinotti,   a  modern  Sardinian  artist. 

ExeunsiONS.  Oristano  itself  is  an  uninviting  place,  but  there  are  several 
points  of  interest  in  the  neighbourhood.  Tharrus,  with  its  tombs,  the  richest 
mine  of  antiquities  in  Sardinia,  may  be  reached  on  horseback  in  3-4  hrs. 
Nearly  halfway  to  it  lies  Cabras,  on  the  salt  lake  Mare  Pontis  (excellent 
fishing),  with  the  ruins  of  a  castle  where  Eleonora  of  Arborea  first  accorded 
the  charter  of  liberty  (Carta  de  Logu)  to  her  subjects.  A  good  oppor- 
tunity of  observing  the  native  costumes  is  to  be  had  here  on  Thursdays, 
when  numerous  peasants  from  all  parts  of  the  country  come  to  provide 
themselves  with  fish  for  their  Friday  fast.  Leaving  Cabras ,  a  ride  of 
2  hrs.  more  brings  us  to  the  Promontory  of  S.  Marco,  where  the  abbey- 
church  of  S.  Giovanni  de  Sinis  indicates  the  site  of  the  ancient  town  of 
Tharrus.  Farther  S.,  on  the  coast,  is  situated  the  Necropolis,  where  anti- 
quities are  still  frequently  found.  On  the  brow  of  the  promontory  there 
are  upwards  of  20  nuragghi. 

Another  excursion  is  from  Oristano  (by  carriage  in  2>|2-3  hrs.)  to  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  town  of  Cornus,  situated  on  the  coast  to  the  N.  — 
The  village  of  Mills,  at  the  base  of  Monte  Ferru  (3441  ft.),  may  be  reach- 
ed by  carriage  in  2  hrs.;  near  it  is  the  charming  country  -residence 
of  the  Marchese  I?oyl,  with  beautiful  orange-gardens  ,  containing  upwards 
of  300,000  trees  (some  of  them  6  ft.  in  circumference).    —    To  Fordungia- 

22* 


340      Route  43.  MACOMER.  Sardinia. 

nus,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tirso,  on  horseback  in  3'|2  hrs.  (charges, 
see  p.  333).  This  was  the  ancient  Forum  Trajani,  possessing  thermal 
springs  and  a  few  scanty  relics  of  antiquity.  No^inn.  From  this  point  to 
Tonara  or  Arilzo  at  the  base  of  Gennargentu  is  a  day's  ride ;  comp.  p.  343. 

Road.  Beyond  Oristano  the  road  traverses  a  fertile  plain  and 
several  green  valleys.  By  the  village  of  Tramazza  a  road  diverges 
to  Milis  (see  above).  Our  road  next  passes  Bauladu,  and  leads  to 
Paulilatino  (3000  inhah. ) ,  where  we  observe  a  nurago  and  several 
giants'  graves.  The  vegetation  now  loses  the  African  character  pre- 
sented by  its  palms  and  cacti  and  becomes  more  like  that  of  Cen- 
tral Italy.  The  road  ascends.  On  the  left  are  the  heights  of  Monte 
Ferru.    After  a  drive  of  8  hrs.  we  reach  — 

Macomer  (*Albergo  Muria;  *Alberg'o  Nazionale;  Caff'e  Gari- 
baldi), a  small  town  with  2400  inhab.,  loftily  situated  (1890  ft. 
above  the  sea)  on  the  slope  of  the  mountains  of  the  Catena  del 
Mnrghine,  commanding  distant  views  of  the  lofty  Gennargentu  and 
the  other  peaks  of  the  central  chain.  Near  it  lay  the  ancient  Ma- 
copsisa,  where  a  number  of  Roman  antiquities  have  been  found. 
In  front  of  the  church  are  three  ancient  milestones,  two  of  Ves- 
pasian and  one  of  Sept.  Severus,  proving  that  a  Roman  road  once 
passed  in  this  direction. 

No  district  in  Sardinia  contains  such  a  number  of  Nuragghi  as  the 
environs  of  Macomer.  These  monuments  are  sufficiently  conspicuous, 
but  as  they  are  often  difficult  of  access  owing  to  the  rank  grass  and 
underwood  surrounding  them ,  the  services  of  a  guide  will  be  found 
acceptable  (Battista  Dorra,  2  fr.  per  half  day,  speaks  a  little  Italian). 
That  of  *&.  Barbara,  about  Vs  31.  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  not  far  from 
the  high  road,  deserves  a  visit  on  account  of  its  excellent  state  of  pre- 
servation. It  is  square  in  form  and  surrounded  by  four  small  cones. 
Another  similar  monument  called  Tamvli  (possibly  from  'tumuli1)  is 
about  4)1.  to  the  W.  of  Macomer.  It  is  a  well  preserved  nurago,  in 
which  were  discovered  curious  idols,  believed  by  La  Marmora  to  be 
Phoenician.  The  platform  commands  an  admirable  view.  About  50  paces 
to  the  E.  of  the  Taniuli,  and  partly  concealed  by  thistles,  are  six  cones 
of  stone  5  ft.  in  height,  three  of  them  with  women's  breasts. 

Macomer,  lying  at  the  intersection  of  two  roads,  is  one  of  the 
busiest  points  in  the  interior  of  the  island.  Diligence  daily  by 
Sindia  and  Suni  to  Bosa  (3  fr.);  also  daily  to  Nuoro  (8,  coupe 
10  fr.),  and  thence  to  Orosei  on  the  E.  coast. 

The  mountain-passes  through  which  the  road  from  Macomer 
to  Bonorva  (10'/2  M.)  winds  upwards  to  the  lofty  plain  of  La 
(kimpedda  (2250  ft.)  are  frequently  blocked  with  snow  in  winter,  so 
that  diligence  passengers  are  then  compelled  to  wait  for  several 
days  at  Macomer  or  Bonorva.  The  latter,  with  5200  inhab.  who 
are  engaged  in  tilling  the  soil  and  in  rearing  cattle,  lies  in  a  bleak 
locality,  I1/2  M.  to  the  right  of  the  road.  The  road  now  enters 
a  rocky  district  and  crosses  a  brook,  near  which  are  several  grottoes 
in  the  limestone  rock,  once  apparently  inhabited.  To  the  right 
lies  the  lofty  village  of  Uinve.     Then,  12l/.2  M.  from  Bonorva  — 

Torralba  (two  poor  inns),  with  the  ancient,  formerly  episcopal 
■•huiv.h   of  S.    Pielm   di    Tnrrcs  (containing  medieval  sculptures). 


Sardinia.  ASSARi.  13.  Route.      341 

and  two  of  the  most  remarkable  nuragghi  in  Sardinia,  those  of 
Sant'  Antino  and  Oes,  the  former  consisting  of  several  chambers 
one  above  the  other,  the  latter  surrounded  by  three  small  cones 
of  stone.  —  Not  far  from  Torralba,  near  the  village  of  Borutta,  the 
Strada  Centrale  is  intersected  by  another  road,  which  connects  the 
towns  of  Alghero  and  Terranova,  situated  on  the  W.  and  E.  coast 
respectively. 

From  Torralba  to  Alghero,  28  3L,  diligence  daily.  The  fortified  sea- 
port town  of  Alghero,  with  9800  inhab.,  was  founded  by  the  Genoese  family 
of  Doria.  At  a  later  period  Catalonians,  whose  language  is  still  spoken 
by  the  inhabitants,  settled  here.  In  1541  Charles  V.  landed  here  on  his 
way  to  Africa,  and  spent  several  days  in  the  Casa  Albis,  which  is  still 
shown.  The  town  is  an  episcopal  see  and  possesses  a  cathedral  of  1510. 
Many  of  the  houses  are  of  mediaeval  origin.  Coral  and  shellfish  arc  among 
the  staple  commodities  (the  pinna  marina  is  often  found  here).  The  en- 
virons produce  wine,  oil,  and  southern  fruits  in  abundance.  The  neigh- 
bouring "Grottoes  of  Neptune  contain  remarkably  fine  stalactites. 

From  Torralba  to  Terranova,  47  M.,  diligence  daily  (railway  pro- 
jected). The  road  leads  by  (15  M.)  Ozieri,  a  town  with  8000  inhab.,  from 
which  a  railway,  opened  in  1875,  runs  to  Sassari  [30  II.,  in  1  hr.  50  min.: 
two  trains  daily:  fares  5  fr.  35,  3  fr.  75  c;  stations  Ardara,  Ploaghe 
(p.  342),  Campo  di  Mela,  Scala  di  Gioca,  Tissi-Usini ,  Canega ,  Sassari 
(see  below).] 

Terranova,  with  3800  inhab.,  situated  on  a  bay  of  the  E.  coast, 
occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Olbia,  of  which  it  still  retains  a  few 
relics.  Steamer  to  Leghorn,  Tues.  4  p.  m.;  to  Cagliari  direct,  Wed.  10 
a.  m.,  and  also,  touching  at  several  ports  on  the  E.  coast,  Tues.  2  a.  m. 

Beyond  Torralba  our  route  passes  Bonannaro,  traversing  a  vol- 
canic soil  which  yields  excellent  wine.  It  then  leads  through  a 
ravine,  formerly  of  evil  repute,  between  the  wooded  heights  of 
Monte  Pelao  and  Monte  Santo  (2441  ft.'),  and  crosses  the  Bio  cle 
las  Perdas  Alvas,  which  falls  into  the  sea  near  the  harbour  of  Torres. 
Beyond  the  plain  of  Campo  Lazaro  we  pass  through  the  village  of 
Codrongianus,  15  M.  from  Torralba  and  14  M.  from  Sassari.  Before 
reaching  Sassari,  the  road  crosses  a  hill  in  long  zigzags. 


Sassari. 

Hotels.  "Albergo  Bertrand,  in  the  Largo  del  C'astello,  R.,  de'j.,  and 
I>.  8  fr.;  'Italia,  Piazza  Azuni,  7  fr.;  Unione,  in  a  street  off  the  Piazza, 
cheaper;  Capkera,  in  the  Piazza,  adjoining  the  post-office;  Concordia, 
Via  delle  Finanze,  good  Genoese  cuisine,  but  poor  rooms. 

Caffe   Mortara:  another  under  the  Caprera.  —  Drinking-water  bad. 

Sassari,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  that  name,  with  32,700 
inhab.,  an  archiepiscopal  see  and  seat  of  a  university,  is  the  chief 
town  in  the  island  next  to  Cagliari,  but  is  built  in  a  much  better 
and  a  more  modern  style.  The  two  towns  have  for  centuries  been 
aspirants  to  the  exclusive  rank  of  capital  of  Sardinia. 

The  handsome  Piazza  is  embellished  with  a  Statue  of  Azuni, 
the  eminent  teacher  of  commercial  law,   erected  in   1862. 

The  ancient  Walls  and  the  Doria  tower  owe  their  origin  to 
the  Genoese.  The  picturesque  Castle  (now  a  barrack)  was  erected 
by  the  Arragonese  in   1330. 


342    43.  Route.  PORTO  TORRES.  Sardinia. 

The  *Cathedral,  with  a  modern  facade,  contains  a  painting  of 
the  school  of  Caracci,  and  (to  the  left  of  the  choir)  the  tomb  of 
the  Due  de  Maurienne,  a  brother  of  Victor  Emmanuel  I.,  who 
died  at  Sassari  in  1802.  The  church  della  Trinitd,  has  a  Descent 
from  the  Cross  of  the  15th  cent.  The  University,  dating  from 
the  17th  cent.,  is  attended  by  about  80  students  only.  It  contains 
small  collections  of  Roman  antiquities  and  natural  history. 

The  Theatre,  the  Municipality,  and  the  Hospital  are  handsome 
buildings.  The  town  is  now  encircled  by  promenades.  In  August, 
185;"),  the  cholera  carried  off  nearly  one-third  of  the  inhabitants 
within  twenty  days. 

On  the  E.  side  of  Sassari  is  the  copious  Fontana  del  Rosello,  the 
water  of  which  is  carried  up  to  the  town  in  small  barrels  by  donkeys. 
The  fountain,  dating  from  1605,  is  in  the  tasteless  style  of  the  period,  and 
is  crowned  with  a  statue  of  S.  Gavinus,  the  tutelary  saint  of  the  island, 
who  is  said  to  have  been  a  Roman  centurion  and  to  have  embraced 
Christianity  at  the  time  of  the  persecution  by  Diocletian. 

A  favourite  excursion  from  Sassari  is  to  the  village  of  Osilo  (2  hrs. 
on  horseback),  situated  2132  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  and  commanding  fine 
views,  especially  from  the  pinnacles  of  a  ruined  castle  of  the  Malaspina 
family,  or  from  the  still  loftier  chapel  di  Bonaria  (2503  ft.). 

Another  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  romantic  valley  of  Ciocca,  the 
abbey  of  the  Madonna  di  Saccargia  (date  1116),  constructed  of  coloured 
marble,  and  the  volcanic  hill  of  Ploaglie  (3  hrs.;  p.  341),  where  an  ancient 
stream  of  lava  is  distinctly  traced.  On  the  N.E.  side  of  the  ravine  stands 
a  ''nurago,  the  'Nurhagu  Nieddu'  (i.e.  'the  black'),  consisting  of  several 
chambers  one  above  the  other,  and  easy  of  access. 

From  Sassari  to  Pome  Torres,  12'/2  M.,  railway  in  %  nr- 
(fares  2  fr.  30,  1  fr.  60,  1  fr.  15  c).  Stations:  2'/2  M.  Sant' 
Orsola,   3  M.   San   Giorgio,   4'/^  M.   San  Giovanni. 

Porto  Torres  (several  cafe's  and  restaurants),  occupying  the  site 
of  the  Roman  Turris  Libyssonis,  now  the  seaport  of  Sassari,  and 
consisting  of  a  single  long  street,  is  notorious  for  its  malaria.  The 
shipping  trade  is  of  some  importance,  the  chief  branch  of  it  being 
the  export  of  oxen  to  Marseilles.  Above  the  town  ('/4  M.  from  the 
quay)  stands  *S.  Gavino,  a  basilica  of  the  11th  cent.,  in  the  ancient 
style,  with  antique  columns  and  open  roof.  Several  relics  of  anti- 
quity are  built  into  the  walls.  The  crypt  contains  the  tomb  of  the 
saint  and  several  ancient  sarcophagi. 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  harbour  (reached  by  the  road  to  the 
right)  are  situated  extensive  Roman  ruins.  The  brook  which  falls 
into  the  harbour  is  crossed  by  an  ancient  Roman  Bridge  of  seven 
arches  of  unequal  span  ,  substantially  constructed  of  massive  blocks 
of  stone.  Between  the  bridge  and  the  harbour  are  the  ruins  of  a 
large  Temple  of  Fortune,  near  which  once  stood  a  basilica,  restored 
by  the  Kmp.  Philip  the  Arabian  in  A.D.  247.  The  relics  of  the 
latter  now  bear  the  name  of  11  Palazzo  del  lie  Barbaro.  An  aqueduct 
and  numerous  rock-tombs  also  still  exist.  A  few  leisure  hours  may 
pleasantly  be  devoted  to  the  inspection  of  these  antiquities. 


Sardinia.  LACONI.  43.  Route.    343 

From  Cagliari  to  Nnoro,   with  Excursions  to  the  Mountains 
of  La  Barbagia. 

Excursions  to  the  mountainous  districts  of  the  interior  are  most  con- 
veniently made  from  the  carriage-road  leading  from  Cagliari  to  Nuoro, 
which  has  only  been  completed  and  traversed  by  a  diligence  within  the 
last  few  years.  Digressions  from  it  must  of  course  be  made  on  foot  or 
horseback.  From  Cagliari  to  Laconi  about  56  M.,  from  Laconi  to  Nuoro 
44  M.,  in  all  100  M. 

The  road  as  far  as  (141/2  M.)  Monastir  (240  ft.)  is  the  Strada 
Centrale.  Thence  by  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Mannu  to  (14i/2  M.j 
Senorbi,  at  the  S.  extremity  of  the  hilly  and  fertile  district  of 
Trejenta.  Then  from  Senorbi  by  Suelli  and  Mandas,  ascending 
the  heights,  to  Isili,  the  capital  of  this  province  (I71/2  M.  from 
Senorbi).  The  neighbouring  district  contains  numerous  nuragghi. 
The  road  next  traverses  the  lofty  plain  of  La  Oiara,  entirely  of 
basaltic  formation,  with  a  great  number  of  nuragghi  on  the  heights. 
It  then  leads  through  a  pleasant  valley,  passes  the  chapel  of  S.  Se- 
bastiano  and  the  village  of  NuraLlao,  and  reaches  the  small  town  of 
Laconi  (2000  inhab. ;  1752  ft.  above  the  sea).  It  lies  at  the  W. 
base  of  the  shelving  plain  of  Sarcidano,  whence  a  torrent  descends 
near  a  ruined  castle  and  forms  a  waterfall  in  the  gardens  of  the 
Marchese  di  Laconi. 

Laconi  is  an  excellent  starting-point  for  a  visit  to  the  montainous 
district  of  the  Barbagia,  the  wildest  part  of  Sardinia,  the  inhabitants 
of  which  boast  that  they  never  succumbed  either  to  the  Carthaginians  or 
to  the  Romans.  The  expedition  requires  4-5  days.  A  guide  and  a  supply 
of  food  and  blankets  should  be  obtained  at  Laconi,  as  it  may  be  necessary 
to  spend  a  night  in  a  shepherd's  hut. 

1st  Day.  From  Laconi  to  Aritzo  (5  hrs.),  a  mountain-village  (2680  ft.) 
at  the  base  of  the  mountain  Fontanel  Congiada  (4944  ft.),  whence  Cagliari 
procures  its  supplies  of  ice  in  summer.  We  pass  the  night  here  or  in 
one  of  the  huts  on  the  slope  of  the  Gennargentu,  in  order  that  we  may 
reach  its  summit  in  good  time  on  the  following  day. 

2nd  Day.  On  horseback  to  the  -Punta  Bruncu  Spina  (6266  ft.),  the 
summit  of  the  Gennargentu,  and  the  highest  point  in  Sardinia,  command- 
ing a  superb  view  of  the  island  and  the  Mediterranean.  A  spring  near 
the  top  is  a  suitable  spot  for  a  halt.  The  ascent  from  Aritzo  (or  from 
Tonara,  a  village  picturesquely  situated  in  a  valley)  occupies  3-4  hrs., 
presenting  no  difficulty.  The  descent  is  made  on  the  N.  side  to  Fonni 
(3277  ft.),  on  the  Monte  Bpada  (5335  ft.),  a  town  with  3200  inhab.,  where 
the  night  is  spent.    From  Fonni  to  Gavoi  on  the  high-road  4'/2  M. 

3rd  Day.  From  Fonni  by  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  Oobbo  to  the  pass 
of  Col  di  Correboi  (4176  ft.) ;  then  a  descent  into  the  valley  of  the  Rio  di 
Perda  Cuadda,  one  of  the  highest  affluents  of  the  Flumendosa.  A  good 
resting-place  is  near  the  picturesquely  shaped  rocks  of  Perdaliana 
(4309  ft.) 

4th  Day.  Through  the  woods  on  the  left  bak  of  the  Flumendosa  to 
the  chapel  of  S.  Sebastiano  (3110  ft.),  near  Seui,  where  there  are  coal- 
mines; thence  between  Monte  Orru  and  Monte  Perdedu  to  Seulo  (2624  ft.). 

5th  Day.  From  Seulo  we  return  to  Laconi,  either  towards  the  W., 
crossing  the  Flumendosa  by  a  ford  (passable  in  dry  weather  only),  and 
traversing  the  lofty  district  of  Sarcidano  and  the  oak-forest  of  Laconi 
(the  more  direct  route);  or  from  Seulo  we  proceed  towards  the  S.,  pass 
the  nurago  of  S.  Cosimo  and  a  small  mudvolcano  (similar  to  the  Jlacca- 
luba  in  Sicily),  descend  to  the  Flumendosa,  cross  the  river  by  a  ford. 
lVa  M.  to  the  N.  of  Villanova  Tulo%  and  ascend  to  that  village,  whence 
we  cross  the  plain  of  Sarcidano  to  Laconi  (6  hrs. ;  a  longer  route  than  the 


344    Route  43.  NUOKO. 

above,  but  pleasanter  and  more  picturesque).  It  depends  to  a  great  ex- 
tent on  the  traveller's  letters  of  introduction  whether  he  will  prolong  or 
shorten  his  tour.  In  the  larger  villages,  however,  a  small  cabaret  is  al- 
ways to  be  found  ;  and  where  there  is  none,  the  cure  or  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal inhabitants  will  if  necessary  accord  hospitality  to  strangers,  though 
not  provided  with  an  introduction. 

From  Laconi  to  Nuoro  the  road  leads  by  Meana,  Atzara,  and 
Sorgono  (inn  tolerable).  From  this  point  the  more  direct  route 
does  not  lead  to  Gavoi,  but  passes  Fonni  and  proceeds  to  Mamo- 
jada,  whence  there  is  also  a  carriage-road  (a  drive  of  3  hrs.)  to  — 

Nuoro  (*Albergo  del  Cannon  d'Oro) ,  a  provincial  capital  and 
episcopal  see  (5700  inhab.),  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  (1906 
ft.),  with  a  view  of  the  Gennargentu  and  the  nearer  mountains. 
Nuoro  lies  on  the  road  from  Macomer  to  Orosei  (diligence  every 
afternoon  from  Nuoro  to  Macomer  in  7-8  hrs.  ;  to  Orosei  every 
morning  in  5  hrs.).  Orosei,  the  ancient  Cedrinus,  is  a  small  seaport 
on  the  E.  coast,  whence  a  steamer  starts  on  Tuesdays  at  8  a.  m.  for 
Cagliari,  and  on  Fridays  at  6  a.  m.  for  Terranova  and  Maddalena. 

44.    Excursion  to  Tunis. 

Carthage. 

Comp.  Map  of  Sicily,  after  the  Index. 

When  at  Cagliari  or  Malta,  the  traveller  should  if  possible  take 
this  opportunity  of  visiting  Tunis,  in  order  to  obtain  a  glimpse  of  Oriental 
life,  as  the  excursion  may  be  made  without  very  serious  inroads  on  time 
and  money.  The  ruins  of  ,Carthage  in  the  vicinity  form  an  additional 
attraction,  and  few  will  omit  to  visit  the  site  of  the  once  mighty  city 
which   ruled  the  ocean.    TJtica  also  lay  near  Tunis. 

Steamboats  to  Goletta  (Tunis).  1.  Fhom  Cagliaki  (and  from  Genoa, 
Leghorn ,  Naples ,  or  Palermo).  A  steamboat  of  the  Societa  Rubattino 
leaves  Genoa  on  Thursdays  at  9  p.m.,  Leghorn  on  Fridays  at  11  p.m.; 
another  leaves  Naples  on  Saturdays  at  2  p.  in.,  another  Palermo  on  Satur- 
days at  2  p.  m.  (passengers  for  Goletta  by  either  of  the  last  two  must 
charge  boats  at  Cagliari) ;  from  Cagliari  on  Sunday  evenings ,  crossing 
direct,  reaching  Goletta  on  Monday  about  noon  and  returning  on  Wed- 
nesday afternoon  or  evening.  Fares  from  Cagliari  to  Goletta :  1st  el. 
(incl.  dinner)  52>|2,  2nd  cl.  37J|2  fr.  —  2.  From  Malta  (which  is  reached 
by  steamers  of  the  Florio  Co.  from  Messina  or  Syracuse ,  see  p.  328) 
steamers  belonging  to  a  Maltese  Co.  run  pretty  regularly  every  week  to 
Goletta  (Tunis)  in  22  hrs. ;  fare  21.  8s.  stg.  —  3.  From  Marseiles  on 
Wednesdays  (Valery  Co.)  via  Ajaccio  and  Bona,  arriving  at  Goletta  on 
Sundays,  and  leaving  Goletta  again  on  Tuesdays  at  6  p.  in.  —  Travellers, 
however,  should  enquire  on  the  spot  with  regard  to  these  routes,  in  case 
of  alterations. 

French  Gold  is  the  best  kind  of  money  for  this  excursion. 

The  steamboats  from  Cagliari  and  from  Malta  do  not  touch  any- 
where on  their  way  to  Tunis.  Towards  the  end  of  the  voyage  we 
come  in  sight  of  Cape  Farina  and  Cape  Bon,  with  its  lighthouse, 
two  conspicuous  points  on  the  coast  of  Africa ,  which  is  green  in 
winter  only,  and  we  soon  enter  the  Bay  of  Tunis.  To  the  E.  of 
the  entrance  lie  the  small  islands  of  Jamur,  the  larger  of  which 
is  called  Zembra  and  the  smaller  Zembarotta,  the  Tunisian  qua- 
rantine. 


GOLETTA  44.  Route.    345 

The  bay  contracts ;  to  the  left  rise  precipitous  and  barren 
cliffs,  forming  a  handsome  frame  to  the  bay ;  and  in  a  few  hours 
the  landing-place  at  Ooletta  becomes  visible.  On  the  right  rises 
the  promontory  of  Carthagena,  crowned  by  a  conspicuous  light- 
house (admission  by  paying  a  fee),  and  sloping  precipitously  on 
the  E.  and  N.  sides,  while  the  picturesque  Arab  -village  of  Sidi- 
boo-Said,  which  commands  a  line  panorama  of  the  Bay  and  the 
country  around ,  marks  the  spot  where  stood  the  ancient  city  of 
Cartilage  (comp.  p.  348). 

Goletta.  Arrival.  As  soon  as  the  steamboat  has  cast  anchor  she  is 
boarded  by  the  sanitary  officer  of  the  port  and  the  agent  of  the  steam- 
boat company,  who  carries  away  a  bill  of  lading  for  the  Dogana.  After 
these  officials  have  gone  ashore,  a  number  of  large  boats  approach  the 
vessel  to  land  the  passengers  and  freight.  The  traveller  is  now  conveyed 
to  the  Dogana  (custom-house),  where  his  luggage  is  examined,  and  where 
he  should  obtain  the  proper  certificate  of  examination  from  the  authorities, 
as  otherwise  his  effects  are  liable  to  be  examined  a  second  time,  at  Tunis. 
Should  any  difficulty  arise  with  the  custom-house  officers,  the  traveller  may 
threaten  to  appeal  to  his  consul,  which  will  generally  have  the  desired  effect. 
The  most  promising  of  the  throng  of  negroes  and  Arabs  who  proffer 
their  services  may  be  engaged  to  carry  luggage  to  the  Railway  for  Tunis 
(see  below),  and  to  act  as  guide  (fee  50-70  c).  Some  of  them  understand 
a  few  words  of  Italian.  Offers  of  assistance  from  other  persons  should 
be  declined.  If  there  is  time  to  spare  before  the  departure  of  train  or 
steamboat,  luggage  may  be  entrusted  to  the  landlord  of  one  of  the 
numerous  cafes  or  inns,  while  the  traveller  explores  the  town. 

Ooletta  (Hotel  de  France,  tolerable),  with  about  3500  inhab., 
is  the  port  of  Tunis,  from  which  it  is  about  11  M.  distant,  and 
the  residence  of  a  Caid  (p.  347).  Its  coolness  in  summer  (thermo- 
meter seldom  above  82°  Fahr.  in  the  shade)  and  its  excellent  sea- 
baths  render  it  a  favourite  resort  at  that  season.  The  town  is  forti- 
fied ,  and  has  a  small  garrison,  which  ,  there  being  no  barrack, 
usually  encamps  in  the  open  air,  or  finds  accommodation  wherever 
it  can.  The  present  Bey  of  Tunis  has  a  villa  at  Goletta,  where  he 
resides  from  May  to  September,  during  which  time  the  ministers 
and  other  officials  are  also  resident  here.  It  is  contrary  to  Muslim 
etiquette  for  a  new  Bey  to  occupy  the  same  summer  residence  as 
his  predecessor,  and  their  places  of  abode  therefore  vary.  The 
Palace  of  the  present  Bey  is  situated  to  the  right  of  the  canal  which 
connects  the  bay  with  the  inner  creek.  On  the  left  of  this  canal 
are  the  Dogana,  the  Harem  of  the  Bey,  the  Court  of  Justice  (where 
the  Bey  presides  in  summer;  comp.  p.  347),  and  the  Arsenal.  Most 
of  the  handsome  villas  outside  the  N.  gate  extending  along  the 
coast  in  the  direction  of  Carthage,  are  the  residences  of  the  Bey's 
ministers.  The  last  in  this  direction  belongs  to  the  Bey  himself, 
and  contains  a  few  Roman  and  Phoenician  inscriptions  and  anti- 
quities. 

The  Railway  between  Goletta  and  Tunis  carries  on  a  busy  traffic 
between  these  places.  The  railway-station  is  just  outside  the  gate 
on  the  Carthage  road.  The  journey  takes  1/2  nr-  (1st  cl.  2  fr.).  The 
train  skirts  the  N.  margin  of  the  bay  of  El  Bahira,  and  we  observe 


346      Route  41.  TUNIS.  Excursion 

the  island  of  Shykeli,  with  a  castle  dating  from  the  middle  ages, 
which  contains  a  large  leaden  reservoir.  The  lake  is  enlivened  by 
countless  wild  fowl,  including  flamingoes ,  which  afford  excellent 
sport. 

Tunis.     Porters,  as  at  Goletta,  50-70  c. 

Hotel  de  France,  French  landord,  situated  in  the  Street  of  the  Bourse, 
close  to  the  gate  towards  the  quay,  per  day  ll'J2  fr.  (at  present  the  only 
hotel  in  the  European  style). 

In  the  same  street  there  is  a  good  French  Cafe  with  a  garden. 

If  the  traveller  is  induced  by  the  delightful  climate  of  Tunis  (lowest 
temperature  about  50°,  highest  95°)  to  make  a  prolonged  stay,  he  had  better 
engage  private  lodgings.  A  good  dinner  may  be  obtained  at  a  moderate 
charge  at  one  of  the  restaurants  (Locande).  The  city  is  well  provided  with 
physicians,  druggists,  baths,  etc. 

Guides.  None  should  be  engaged  but  those  recommended  by  the  hotel- 
keepers  or  other  respectable  persons  (5  fr.  per  day).  If  the  following  plan 
be  adopted,  a  boy  will  suffice  (2'|2  fr.  per  day). 

English  Consul,  Mr.  E,.  Wood;  American,  Sir.  G.  H.  Heap. 

Plan  for  a  short  visit.  Immediately  on  arriving,  the  traveller  should 
call  on  his  consul  and  exhibit  his  passport.  The  police  require  this  to  be 
done,  and  it  is  the  invariable  practice ;  but  no  other  passport  formalities 
are  now  necessary.  The  next  thing  is  to  make  arrangements  at  the  con- 
sulate for  visiting  the  Bardo  the  following  day.  The  evening  may  be 
spent  in  walking  about  the  town,  or  in  visiting  one  of  the  numerous  coffee- 
houses, where  the  Muslim  may  be  seen  over  his  pipe  and  coffee.  The 
performances  of  Jewish  dancing-girls ,  calling  themselves  Moors,  accom- 
panied by  negro  music,  may  also  be  witnessed ;  but  such  excruciating  ex- 
hibitions should  only  be  visited  under  the  escort  of  some  one  acquainted 
with  the  language  of  the  country.  —  1st  Day  :  In  the  morning  proceed 
by  railwray  (not  used  in  summer ;  or,  better  still ,  by  carriage,  4-7  fr.) 
to  the  Bardo  and  inspect  the  interior;  after  dinner  walk  to  the  Hammam 
Lif  and  the  vicinity ;  in  the  evening  walk  through  the  town  or  visit  the 
Italian  theatre.  —  2nd  Day  :  Excursion  to  the  Ruins  of  Carthage,  for  which 
there  is  time  in  the  morning  before  the  departure  of  the  steamboat  if  the 
first  train  from  Tunis  to  Goletta  be  taken,  and  no  unnecessary  delay  be 
made.  On  returning  from  Marsa  to  Goletta  the  traveller  should  at  once 
go  on  board  the  steamboat.     Dinner  is  served  immediately  after  starting. 

Permission  to  visit  the  Bardo  (p.  34S)  must  be  obtained  through  the 
traveller's  consul.  Application  is  made  by  letter  to  the  Minister  for 
Foreign  Affairs,  who  procures  a  personal  permission  from  the  Bey  him- 
self, which  is  quite  indispensable,  but  is  always  granted.  The  visit  may 
be  made  any  afternoon  except  a  Friday,  the  Mohammedan  Sabbath.  When 
the  permission  is  obtained,  the  consul  sends  his  dragoman  with  it  to  the 
Bardo  for  examination,  and  arranges  with  the  traveller  as  to  the  hour 
of  starting,  which  is  usually  9  a.m.  At  the  time  appointed  the  dragoman 
will  be  found  waiting  in  the  piazza ,  who ,  when  the  traveller  appears, 
takes  his  place  on  the  box  beside  the  driver.  If,  however,  the  Bey  is 
residing  at  one  of  his  villas  near  the  Bardo  ,  the  consul  merely  gives 
his  dragoman  a  letter  of  introduction,  which  he  presents  for  examination 
at  the  Foreign  Office  in  the  Bardo  whilst  the  visitor  remains  in  the 
waiting-room.  If  the  Bey  is  engaged  the  traveller  may  have  to  wait 
half-an-hour  or  more  before  the  permission  is  obtained.  Meanwhile  he 
may  procure  from  one  of  the  black  servants  in  attendance  near  the 
waiting-room  a  small  cup  of  coffee  prepared  in  Arabian  fashion  (2  charubs, 
or  about  5  centimes).  The  attendants  at  the  Bardo  are  prohibited  to  accept 
any  gratuity  for  showing  the  rooms.  The  dragoman's  fee  is  5-10  fr., 
according  to  the  number  of  the  party. 

On  the  day  of  his  arrival  the  traveller  may  also  procure  from  the 
French  Consulate  a  permission   to  visit   the  chapel    of  St.  Louis  (p.  348). 

The  Kingdom,  or,    as  it    is    more    commonly   called,   the  Reoknot,  of 


to  Tunis.  TUNIS.  44.  Route.      347 

Tunis  ,  which ,  since  1575 ,  has  been  under  the  suzerainty  of  the  Sultan 
of  Turkey,  occupies  an  area  of  70,000  square  31. ,  and  contains  about  2 
million  inhabitants.  The  present  Bey,  Mohammed  Essadok  Pasha,  who 
was  horn  in  1813,  is  a  descendant  of  the  Hussein  family,  which  has 
occupied  the  throne  since  1691 ;  ;and  the  heir-apparent,  according  to  the 
Osman  law  of  succession ,  is  his  eldest  brother,  Sidi  All.  The  country  is 
divided  into  24  districts  and  36  sub-districts ,  the  former  being  presided 
over  by  caids  (governors)  and  caliphs  (sub-governors) ,  the  latter  by 
mescheiks.  These  officials  are  appointed  by  the  Bey,  to  whom  they  pay 
a  heavy  tax  for  their  tenure  of  office.  The  code  of  law  of  the  country 
is  the  Karaa,  an  excerpt  from  the  Koran,  with  additions  and  ampli- 
fications ,  the  decision  of  cases  for  which  it  does  not  provide  being 
left  to  the  discretion  of  the  judge.  The  supreme  judge  is  the  Bey  him- 
self, who  usually  holds  a  court  twice  a  week.  The  above-mentioned 
officials  are  the  district  judges,  against  whose  decisions  an  appeal  to  the 
Bey  is  competent.  Spectators  are  admitted  to  the  inferior  courts,  but  the 
Bey  does  not  readily  grant  access  to  his  own  court.  The  judgment  of  the 
supreme  court  is  followed  by  immediate  execution.  The  slavery  of  white 
persons  was  abolished  in  1816,  that  of  blacks  in  1844.  The  armaments  of 
the  country,  which  have  greatly  declined  of  late  years,  now  consist  of  an 
army  of  about  4000  regular  troops  and  12,000  irregular  troops,  and  a  navy 
of  four  vessels  only.  The  equipment,  food,  and  pay  of  the  men  are 
extremely  poor,  and  soldiers  are  often  seen  occupied  in  knitting  and  other 
feminine  pursuits  with  a  view  to  eke  out  their  pittance.  The  ad- 
ministration of  the  finances ,  formerly  in  a  most  deplorable  condition 
from  having  been  left  entirely  to  the  caprice  of  the  favourites  of  the 
Bey,  is  now  entrusted  to  a  '  European  Finance  Commission ',  independent 
of  the  government,  having  been  appointed  in  consequence  of  the  inter- 
vention of  the  Great  Powers  in  1869;  but  complaints  of  this  system  are 
still  made. 

JIoney.  The  current  coins  of  the  country  are  piastres  and  charubs  : 
1  piastre=16  silver  charubs=24  copper  charubs;  32  piastres=20  francs= 
16  shillings.  A  piastre  is  therefore  worth  about  sixpence,  and  I1!"  piastre 
about  one  franc,  but  the  rate  of  exchange  varies.  Francs  are  exchanged 
without  difficulty,  but  this  is  not  the  case  with  English,  and  still  less  so 
with  other  money. 

In  and  around  Tunis  the  safety  of  the  public  is  efficiently  provided 
for,  but  the  traveller  should  not  make  excursions  in  the  interior  alone. 

Tunis,  the  capital  of  the  regency  of  that  name,  and  next  to 
Cairo  the  largest  town  in  Africa,  contains  upwards  of  120,000inhab., 
of  whom  about  one-fifth  are  native  Jews,  and  one-tenth  Europeans 
of  various  nationalities,  chiefly  Italians,  Maltese,  Greeks,  and  French. 
The  remainder  are  Moors,  Arabs,  Turks,  Berbers,  and  negroes.  The 
Europeans  reside  almost  exclusively  in  the  European  Quarter  (Citta 
Franca),  which  is  situated  at  the  S.E.  end  of  the  town,  and  includes 
the  piazza  of  the  Marine  Gate.  The  Jews  also  for  the  most  part 
keep  to  their  own  quarter,  which  is  the  dirtiest  part  of  the  town, 
while  that  of  the  Moors  is  the  cleanest.  Various  phases  of  Oriental 
life  may  be  witnessed  in  the  narrow  and  sometimes  unpaved  streets. 
At  several  points  the  thoroughfare  is  obstructed  by  tombs  of  saints, 
which  are  very  numerous.  The  town  is  supplied  with  excellent 
running  water  from  the  springs  of  Ssaghuan  (p.  350),  an  ancient 
Carthaginian  aqueduct  being  utilised  for  part  of  the  distance 
(p.  348). 

The  *Bazaak  with  its  numerous  rows  of  shops  presents  a  very 
interesting  scene.    It  consists  of  seventeen  distinct  divisions,  named 


348     Route  44.  CARTHAGE.  Excursion 

sooks,  each  of  which  is  generally  devoted  to  the  sale  of  articles  of 
one  particular  class  :  in  the  Sook  el-Khbebja  ('throwsters')  are  sold 
fringes  and  silk  wares  ;  in  the  Sook  el-Attarin  the  exquisite  Oriental 
essences  only  ;  in  the  Sook  el-Birka  (formerly  the  slave  market) 
jewellery  of  every  kind  and  ancient  coins ;  and  at  the  two  lateral 
approaches,   burnus,   haiks,  scarfs,   etc. 

The  Palace  of  the  Bey  {Dar  el-Bey)  which  is  usually  occupied 
by  him  during  the  month  of  Ramadan  only ,  the  Mohammedan 
month  of  fasting,  and  also  a  kind  of  carnival  season,  contains  an 
interesting  small  round  saloon,  with  a  dome  and  beautifully  execu- 
ted stucco-work  in  a  style  introduced  by  Moors  from  Spain. 

Near  the  Dar  el-Bey,  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  city,  rises 
the  Khasba,  an  extensive,  half-dilapidated,  and  still  half-fortified 
citadel  dating  from  the  time  of  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  and  com- 
manding a  fine  survey  of  the  city  and  environs.  In  the  vicinity 
is  also  the  palace  of  the  Ferik,  or  governor  of  the  city,  near  which 
there  are  pleasant  promenades. 

The  Mosques,  in  the  Moorish  style,  with  their  slender  minarets, 
can  only  be  inspected  externally,  admission  to  them,  as  well  as  to 
the  numerous  Mohammedan  unenclosed  burial-grounds  in  and  near 
the   city,  being  rigorously  denied  to  unbelievers. 

The  pleasantest  promenade  is  the  Marine  Avenue,  which  ex- 
tends from  the  gate  next  to  the  El  Bahira  bay  as  far  as  the  Dogana 
and  the  quay  for  small  boats. 

About  2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Tunis  is  situated  the  *Bardo  (adm. 
see  p.  346),  an  extensive  pile  of  buildings  resembling  a  town  in 
miniature,  where  the  Bey  has  his  seat  of  government  in  winter,  con- 
taining also  the  headquarters  of  his  army  and  a  state  prison. 

The  Staircase  of  the  principal  building  is  adorned  on  each  side  with 
lions  of  poor  Italian  workmanship.  The  Vestibule  to  which  the  stairs 
lead  is  adorned  with  elaborate  Moorish  stucco-work.  Between  3  and  4 
p.  m.  visitors  may  be  present  here  at  the  Salam  Alek,  or  'salute1  which 
is  performed  in  honour  of  the  Sultan  of  Turkey  by  the  master  of  the 
ceremonies  in  the  name  of  the  Bey,  and  is  accompanied  by  drums  and 
fifes.  To  the  right  of  the  vestibule  is  the  Thkone  Room,  containing  numer- 
ous and  for  the  most  part  miserably  bad  portraits  of  Beys  and  Tunisian 
dignitaries,  and  a  number  of  valuable  gifts  from  foreign  sovereigns.  The 
Balcony  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  lake  which  occupies  the  ground 
beyond  the  hills  of  Tunis. 

Adjacent  to  the  Bardo  is  the  chateau  of  Kasr  Seid,  where  the 
Bey  resides.  Near  it  is  the  Manuba  ,  a  group  of  villas  belonging 
to  the  Bey  and  his  magnates,  and  here  also  is  the  already  men- 
tioned Carthaginian  Aqueduct,  which  is  still  used. 

The  Ruins  of  Carthage  (Sidi-boo-Said,  Marsa,  and  Kamart) 
may  be  visited  either  from  Tunis  or  from  Goletta  by  carriage  (about 
<S  fr).  The  railway  passes  the  ruins  and  goes  as  far  as  Marsa  (or 
Mersa,  p.  349),  but  does  not  suit  the  requirements  of  the  tourist. 
A  small  chapel  on  the  hill  nearest  to  Goletta  was  erected  by  Louis 
Philippe  in  1841  to  the  memory  of  his  ancestor  Louis  the  Saint, 
who  died  here  in  1270  when  engaged  in  a  crusade  against  Tunis. 


to  Tunis.  CARTHAGE.  44.  Route.      349 

The  garden  in  which  the  chapel  stands,  and  which  commands  a 
flue  view  (admission,  see  p.  346),  contains  Roman  inscriptions  and 
reliefs  of  the  Imperial  era,  found  in  the  course  of  excavations  in- 
stituted by  the  French  government.  There  is  also  a  fragment  of 
old  wall  here,  with  two  niches.  This  hill  was  doubtless  the  site 
of  the  Byrsa,  or  ancient  citadel  of  Carthage.  A  large  vaulted  struc- 
ture of  brick,  supposed  to  have  been  a  reservoir,  as  well  as  the 
extensive  ruins  by  the  sea,  belong  to  the  Roman  Carthage.  The 
outline  of  the  earlier  city  is  no  longer  traceable  in  consequence  of 
its  having  so  frequently  been  destroyed,  and  the  site  itself  has  also 
undergone  extensive  changes.  Mommsen  in  his  History  of  Rome 
gives  the  following  account  of  this  interesting  locality  :  — 

'Carthage  was  rendered  a  place  of  great  strength,  partly  by  the  nature 
of  its  situation,  and  partly  by  the  skilful  construction  of  its  walls,  to  which 
the  inhabitants  were  frequently  compelled  to  trust  for  protection.  (The 
configuration  of  the  coast  has  in  the  course  of  centuries  been  so  changed  that 
the  ancient  local  peculiarities  of  the  site  cannot  now  be  thoroughly  appre- 
ciated. The  name  of  the  town  still  survives  in  Cape  Carthagena ,  also 
called  Ras  Sidi-boo- Said  from  the  tomb  of  a  saint  situated  there.  This 
promontory  is  the  E.  extremity  of  the  peninsula  which  extends  into  the 
bay,  and  rises  to  a  height  of  400  ft.  above  the  sea-level.)  In  the  spacious 
Bay  of  Tunis,  bounded  on  the  W.  by  Cape  Farina,  and  on  the  E.  by  Cape 
Bon,  a  promontory  projects  in  the  direction  from  W.  to  E.,  three  sides  of 
which  are  washed  by  the  sea,  the  remaining  side  towards  the  W.  alone 
being  connected  with  the  mainland.  This  promontory,  the  narrowest  part 
of  which  is  not  above  2>|2  M.  in  breadth,  and  altogether  somewhat  flat, 
expands  as  it  abuts  on  the  bay  and  terminates  in  the  two  heights  of 
Jebel-Khavi  and  Sidi-boo-Said.  Between  these  extends  the  plain  of  El 
Marsa,  on  the  S.  portion  of  which,  bounded  by  the  height  of  Sidi-boo-Said, 
lay  the  city  of  Carthage.  The  somewhat  precipitous  fall  of  this  height 
towards  the  sea ,  with  its  numerous  cliffs  and  chasms ,  afforded  a  natural 
protection  to  the  city  on  the  side  towards  the  bay,  where  a  simple  ram- 
part sufficed;  whilst  the  land  side  on  the  W.,  being  unprotected  by  natural 
means,  was  provided  with  a  wall  constructed  with  the  utmost  care  and 
ingenuity.  .  .  .  The  castle  hill,  or  Byrsa  (Syriac  birtha  =  castle),  was  a  com- 
paratively lofty  rock,  188  ft.  in  height  and  l'J2  M.  in  circumference, 
abutting  on  the  S.  extremity  of  the  wall,  in  the  same  way  as  the  cliff  of 
the  Roman  Capitol  advances  so  as  to  touch  the  ramparts  of  the  city.  The 
upper  plateau  of  the  eminence  was  occupied  by  a  vast  temple  of  the  patron 
deity,  founded  on  a  basement  approached  by  60  steps.  The  S.W.  side  of  the 
city  was  bounded  by  the  shallow  lake  of  Tunis,  which  was  almost  entirely 
separated  from  the  bay  by  a  low  and  narrow  tongue  of  land  projecting  from 
the  Carthaginian  peninsula;  on  the  S.E.  side  lay  the  open  bay.  On  the 
latter  side  was  situated  the  double-harbour  of  the  city,  constructed  by  arti- 
ficial means :  the  outer  or  commercial  harbour  was  an  oblong  quadrangle 
with  the  narrower  end  towards  the  sea,  from  the  entrance  to  which,  70  ft. 
in  breadth  only,  broad  quays  extended  on  both  sides ;  the  inner  or  naval 
harbour,  the  Kothon,  was  of  a  circular  form,  accessible  from  the  outer,  and 
containing  an  island  in  the  centre  occupied  by  the  admiral's  residence.  The 
two  were  separated  by  the  city-wall,  which  extending  E.  from  the  Byrsa, 
excluded  the  neck  of  land  and  the  outer,  but  included  the  naval  harbour, 
so  that  the  entrance  to  the  latter  must  have  been  closed  by  a  gate.  In  the 
vicinity  of  the  naval  harbour  was  situated  the  market-place,  connected  by 
three  narrow  streets  with  the  castle,  which  was  open  towards  the  town. 
To  the  N.  of,  and  outside  the  town  lay  the  considerable  space  of  the 
present  El  ilersa,  at  that  period  called  Magalia,  principally  occupied  by 
country-residences  and  carefully  cultivated  gardens,  and  enclosed  by  a 
rampart  of  its  own  adjoining  the  city-wall.  On  the  opposite  extremity  of 
the    peninsula ,    the    Jebel-Khavi  ,    near    the    modern    village    of  Kamart, 


350   Route  41.  TUNIS. 

was  situated  the  city  of  tombs.  Thus  the  city,  the  suburb,  and  the  tombs 
occupied  the  entire  width  of  the  promontory  on  the  side  towards  the  bay 
and  were  accessible  only  by  the  two  high  roads  to  Utica  and  Tunis  which 
traversed  the  narrow  neck  of  land  already  described.  The  latter,  although 
not  protected  by  a  wall,  afforded  the  most  advantageous  position  to 
armies  posted  there  for  the  protection  of  the  city.' 

Karthada,  or  'new  town',  as  the  city  was  originally  called,  was  founded 
by  the  Phoenicians  (Dido),  about  880,  and  subsequently  became  their  most 
important  colony.  It  was  unsuccessfully  besieged  by  Agathocles,  but  was 
taken  and  entirely  destroyed  by  Scipio  in  146.  Augustus  established  a 
Roman  colony  here,  which  owing  to  the  incomparable  situation  of  the 
town  and  the  fertility  of  its  environs,  soon  attained  the  rank  of  the  third 
city  of  the  empire.  In  439  it  was  conquered  by  Genseric  and  made  the 
capital  of  the  Vandal  empire,  but  in  533  succumbed  to  the  attacks  of 
Belisarius.  The  supremacy  of  the  Byzantine  emperors  was  subverted  by 
the  Arabs  in  647,  and  the  city  destroyed. 

The  region  of  Kamart  (p.  349),  with  its  shifting  sand-hills, 
affords  some  idea  of  the  appearance  of  the  desert.  Near  it,  on  the 
Sebkha  el-Ruan,  are  salt  works  belonging  to  goverment. 

Excursions  may  also  he  made  to  the  Belvedere ,  an  eminence 
1/4  hr.  from  the  town,  with  a  fine  view ;  and  to  Ariane,  a  village  with 
pleasant  villas,  1^4  M-  distant,  which  yields  the  finest  roses  in  this 
district. 

We  may  also  drive  to  the  warm  springs  and  baths  of  Hammam 
Lif  (marked  H.  el  Enf  on  the  map  ;  carriage  in  4-5  hrs.,  8-10  fr.). 
The  road  passes  a  Mohammedan  burial-ground  with  sacred  burial- 
chapels  ,  and  the  small  town  of  Sidi  Fethallah.  Hamman  Lif  is  a 
watering-place  situated  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  where  the  extensive 
palace  of  a  former  Bey  is  used  for  the  reception  of  guests  (no 
restaurant ;  the  visitor  must  therefore  carry  his  own  provisions). 

The  excursion  to  Utica  takes  a  whole  day.  The  ruins  of  this  very 
ancient  Phoenician  seaport,  which  was  afterwards  the  headquarters  of  a 
Roman  proconsul,  where  the  younger  Cato  committed  suicide  (B.C.  46)  on 
the  overthrow  of  Pompey's  party  in  the  civil  war  against  Csesar,  are  now 
situated  5  M.  from  the  coast. 

The  hot  springs  of  Hammam  Gorbos  may  either  be  visited  by  boat  from 
Goletta,  or  from  Tunis  by  carriage,  via  Hammam  Lif  and  Soliman. 

The  ruins  of  Ssaghuan  may  be  reached  by  carriage  in  about  7  hrs. ; 
on  the  following  day  the  Jebel  Ssaghuan  (4445  ft.),  which  commands  an 
extensive  view,  may  be  ascended.  Quarters  for  the  night  may  be  obtained 
of  the  sheikh  in  the  Dar  el  Bey  at  Ssaghuan,  on  presenting  an  introduction 
from  the  consul,  but  blankets  and  provisions  must  be  brought  from  Tunis. 

Keff,  with  its  numerous  ruins,  lies  94  M.  island,  to  the  S.W.,  and 
may  be  visited  by  carriage  in  three  days. 

Sfax,  a  seaport  situated  on  the  Bay  of  Gabes ,  or  the  Little  Syrte,  to 
the  S. ,  may  be  reached  by  a  steamer  of  the  Rubattino  Co.,  leaving 
Goletta  on  Wednesdays  at  2  p.m.,  touching  at  Susa,  Monastier,  and  Mehdia, 
and  arriving  at  Sfax  on  Friday  mornings.  On  the  way  thither  a  carriage 
may  be  ordered  at  Susa  to  meet  the  traveller  at  Sfax.  He  may  then  drive 
by  El  Jem,  with  the  ruins  of  an  amphitheatre,  and  by  Kayruan,  if  time 
permit,  to  Susa.  where  the  steamer  returning  from  Sfax  touches  on  Satur- 
days at  6  p.  m, 


351 
45.    From  Naples  or  from  Brindisi  to  Athens. 

The  regular  steamboat-communications  between  Greece  and  Naples, 
Brindisi,  and  Trieste,  will  enable  the  traveller  to  make  this  excursion  in 
8-10  days ,  inclusive  of  the  voyage  to  and  fro.  Those ,  therefore ,  who 
have  extended  their  tour  as  far  as  S.  Italy ,  and  whose  time  and 
finances  permit,  should  not  omit  to  undertake  this  expedition ;  especially 
as  a  short  visit  to  this  famous  city,  the  true  cradle  of  the  culture  of  the 
West,  will  be  found  more  instructive  than  years  of  study.  Compare  In- 
trod.,  p.  xlii. 

(1).  From  Italy  to  Athens.  From  Naples  to  Athens  (Piraeus)  steamers 
of  the  following  companies  ply  regularly  (consult  time-tables,  and  enquire 
at  the  offices  as  to  hours  of  departure):  —  1.  Fraissinet  &  Co.,  every  Sun- 
day afternoon,  1st  class  120,  2nd  80  fr. ;  arriving  at  the  Piraeus  on  Thurs- 
day forenoon.  —  2.  Messageries  Maritimes  de  France,  every  alternate  Monday 
at  5  p.  m. ;  fares  190  and  140  fr. ;  arriving  on  Thursday  afternoon.  (An- 
other steamer  of  the  same  company  starts  every  alternate  week  for  Syra, 
an  island  in  the  Greek  Archipelago  which  carries  on  a  brisk  trade,  from 
which,  after  a  stay  of  two  days,  the  traveller  may  reach  the  Piraeus  by  a 
Greek  steamer ;  but  this  indirect  route  is  not  recommended.)  —  3.  La 
Trinacria,  every  Tuesday  at  4  p.  ni.,  lying  for  a  day  and  a  half  at  Pa- 
lermo and  the  same  time  at  Messina  (which  it  leaves  on  Sunday  at  mid- 
night), and  arriving  at  the  Piraeus  on  Wednesday  morning ;  fares  140  and 
100  fr.  (from  Messina  130  and  90  fr.). 

From  Brindisi  to  Athens  (Piraeus),  via  Corfu :  —  I.  La  Trinacria,  every 
Sunday  at  8  p.  m. ;  fares  140  and  110  fr. ;  lying  at  Corfu  for  5  hrs.  on 
Monday  forenoon,  and  reaching  the  Piraeus  on  Wednesday  morning.  — 
2.  Austrian  Lloyd,  from  Brindisi  to  Corfu  every  Friday  afternoon ;  fares 
38  and  28  fr. ;  arriving  at  Corfu  on  Saturday  evening.  Thence  by  the 
Trinacria  steamer  just  mentioned  to  the  Pireeus  (100  or  79  fr.).  Or  by  a 
vessel  of  the  Greek  company  ('EXX?]vt'/.i]  aTftonXo'f/.i]  'ETUtaiit),  starting  from 
Corfu  on  Tuesday  afternoon,  and  proceeding  via  Zante,  Cephalonia  (halting 
one  hour  at  each),  and  Patras  (halt  of  3  hrs.)  to  New  Corinth,  from  which 
the  isthmus  is  crossed  to  Kalamdki  by  carriage  in  !|2 — 1  hr.  Travellers 
by  this  last  route  book  themselves  and  their  luggage  through  to  Kalamaki, 
in  order  that  they  may  not  have  to  look  after  their  luggage  on  arriving 
at  Corinth,  where  they  will  find  carriages  in  waiting  for  the  drive  across 
the  isthmus  (so  also  at  Kalamaki  in  the  reverse  direction).  From  Kala- 
maki a  steamboat  then  conveys  the  traveller  to  the  Piraeus,  where  it 
arrives  on  Thursday  afternoon.  Fare  from  Corfu  to  the  Piraeus  by  this 
route  90  drachmas,  and  6  dr.  daily  for  food  (those  who  require  good  wine 
had  better  bring  it  from  Corfu).  This  route  to  Athens  via  Corinth  is  far 
from  comfortable,  the  Greek  vessels  are  dirty,  and  the  confusion  in  dis- 
embarking (1  fr.)  and  crossing  the  isthmus  sometimes  very  great ;  but  the 
scenery  is  beautiful,  and  the  route  is  recommended  to  gentlemen,  either 
in  going  or  returning. 

(2).  From  Athens  to  Italy.  From  Athens  to  Messina  :  —  La  Trinacria, 
Saturdays  at  4  p.  m. ;  fares  130  and  90  fr. ;  arriving  at  Messina  on  Mon- 
days at  10  p.  m.,  spending  3-4  days  at'Messina  and  Palermo,  and  reaching 
Naples  on  Saturdays  at  9  p.  m. 

From  Athens  to  Naples  (and  Marseilles):  —  1.  Fraissinet  &  Co.,  every 
Saturday  at  9  a.  m. ;  fares  120  and  80  fr. ;  arriving  at  Naples  on  Tuesday 
about  noon.  —  2.  Messageries  Maritimes ,  every  alternate  Tuesday  at  mid- 
night;   fares  190  and  140  fr.,  arriving  at  Naples  on  Sunday  morning. 

From  Athens  to  Brindisi  :  —  1.  La  Trinacria,  every  Sunday  at  4  p.m., 
lying  at  Corfu  for  a  few  hours  on  Tuesday  morning,  and  arriving  at  Brin- 
disi on  Wednesday  morning;  fares  140  and  110  fr.  —  2.  Greek  Steamer 
every  Sunday  at  6  a.  m.  for  the  route  above  indicated,  via,  Kalamaki, 
Corinth,  and  Patras,  to  Corfu,  arriving  there  on  Tuesday  morning.  Thence 
to  Brindisi  the  same  evening  by  a  steamer  of  the  Trinacria,  or  on  Thurs- 
day, at  5  p.  m.  by  a  vessel  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd.  Or  the  traveller  may 
prefer   to   proceed   direct   to   Trieste  by   a   quick   steamer  of  the  Austrian 


352      Route  45.  CERIGO.  Excursion 

Lloyd  leaving  Corfu  on  Tuesday  afternoon.  (English  steamers  also  ply 
between  Corfu  and  Trieste,  and  another  steamer  of  the  Austrian  Lloyd 
touches  at  Corfu  on  its  way  from  Alexandria  to  Trieste,  but  their  hours 
of  departure  are  uncertain.) 

From  Athens  to  Trieste  :  —  Austrian  Lloyd ,  via  Syra  (see  above), 
where  the  traveller  must  tranship  to  another  vessel  of  the  same  com- 
pany which  plies  between  Constantinople  and  Trieste,  touching  at  Syra 
and  Corfu.  Tickets  sold  at  the  Piraeus  only,  104  and  78  fl.,  including 
food  (1  fl.  =  2Va  ft".)-     This  is  a  good  route  in  either  direction. 

From  Athens  to  Venice  :  —  The  steamer  of  the  Trinacria  already 
mentioned,  via  Corfu  and  Brindisi ,  due  at  Venice  on  Thursday  evening; 
fares  267  and  195  fr. 

If  quarantine  has  to  be  performed  before  entering  Greece,  thee  xcursion 
had  better  be  eschewed ,  as  the  enforced  seclusion  entails  a  serious  loss 
of  time  and  money ;  but  if  the  traveller  should  be  disposed  to  brave  the 
annoyance  ,  let  him  avoid  undergoing  it  at  Syra. 

Money.  The  French  system  has  been  introduced  into  Greece  :  1  drachma 
(franc)  =  100  lepta  (centime).     The  old  drachma  was  worth  90  c.  only. 

From  Naples  to  the  Piraeus. 

The  views  as  the  harbour  is  quitted ,  and  the  voyage  as 
far  as  the  strait  of  Messina,  see  p.  226 — 228.  The  passage  of 
the  strait  is  magnificent.  After  l1/)  hr-  the  vessel  is  off  the 
Capo  dell'  Armi,  the  S.W.  promontory  of  Calabria.  To  the  W. 
rise  the  mountains  of  Sicily,  terminated  apparently  by  the  noble 
pyramid  of  jEtna.  The  vessel  then  steers  towards  the  E., 
skirting  the  coast  of  Calabria ,  the  barren  mountains  of  which 
continue  visible  for  a  considerable  time.  On  the  second  day  the 
vessel  is  completely  out  of  sight  of  land ,  but  on  the  third 
the  Cape  of  Messenia  (now  Capo  Oallo),  with  the  Oenussae 
Islands  (now  Sapienza  and  Cabrera^  in  front  of  it ,  becomes 
visible.  The  steamboat  then  approaches  the  sharp  point  of  Cape 
Tuenaron,  now  C.  Matapan  (36°,  22',  58"),  the  most  southerly 
in  Europe  except  the  Cape  Tariffa  in  Spain  (35°,  59',  57"). 
The  arid  and  stony  peninsula  which  is  terminated  by  this  cape 
is  the  Maina,  the  home  of  the  Mainotes  so  often  celebrated  in 
song.  A  view  is  then  disclosed  of  the  broad  Laconian  Gulf, 
into  which  the  Eurotas  (now  Iri)  flows,  whilst  in  the  extreme 
distance  the  white  heights  of  the  Taygetus  appear.  The  vessel 
next  steers  between  Cape  Malea  (on  the  S.  side  of  which  there 
is  a  hermit's  cell)  and  the  island  of  Cythera  (now  Cerigo),  the 
seat  of  the  most  ancient  worship  of  Venus.  The  bleak  and 
abrupt  coast,  where  on  a  solitary  rock  Monembasia,  in  the  vicinity 
of  which  Malmsey  wine  was  originally  produced,  is  visible,  is  now 
quitted,  and  the  islands  of  Spezzae  and  Hydra,  lying  in  front  of 
the  district  of  Argolis,  are  approached.  The  inhabitants  of  these 
islands  distinguished  themselves  greatly  in  the  Greek  War  of 
Independence.  On  the  right  rise  several  rocky  islets  belonging  to 
the  Cyclades,  among  them  Faclonera  and  Anti-Milos.  The  pyra- 
midal peak  of  St.  EUiis  (1742  ft.),  the  highest  mountain  in  the  island 
of  .Eginn,   now  soon  becomes  visible.     On  the  r.  lies  the  island 


to  Athens.  PIRAEUS.  45.  Route.      353 

of  Belblna,  and  beyond  it  the  hilly  promontory  of  Attica,  Lnurion 
with  its  ancient  silver-mines,  and  the  promontory  of  Sunion  (now 
Cape  Kolonnas).  —  The  steamer  now  steers  towards  the  Piraeus 
and  the  coast  of  Salamis  with  its  numerous  bays;  on  both  sides 
the  island  appears  to  be  connected  with  the  mainland.  The 
barren ,  rounded  hill  next  visible  in  Attica ,  at  first  greatly 
foreshortened ,  is  Hymettus ;  in  a  straight  direction  Fames  forms 
the  N.  boundary  of  the  Attic  plain.  Above  Salamis  (now  Kuluri) 
peeps  the  lofty  summit  of  the  Gerania  in  Megaris.  A  low  hill 
extending  into  the  sea,  behind  which  a  number  of  masts  rise, 
now  becomes  visible.  This  is  the  Piraeus,  the  hill  a  short 
distance  inland  is  Munychia,  and  in  front  of  it  lies  the  Bay  of 
Phaleron,  the  original  harbour  of  Athens.  Between  Hymettus  and 
Parnes  the  regularly  shaped  Pentelicon  or  Brilessus  (now  Penteli), 
next  appears.  At  this  point  the  steamer  commands  a  charming 
*view  of  Athens ;  in  the  centre  the  Acropolis,  to  the  right  the 
monument  of  Philopappus,  to  the  left  the  observatory.  The  large, 
white  building  to  the  N.  of  the  Acropolis  is  the  Palace ,  beyond 
which  rises  the  Lycabettus  (now  Mt.  St.  George).  ■ —  As  soon  as 
the  promontory  of  the  Piraeus  has  been  rounded,  we  perceive  the 
rocky  islet  of  Psyttaleia,  on  which  the  Athenian  'hoplites'  under 
Aristides  destroyed  the  flower  of  the  Persian  army  after  the  Battle 
of  Salamis,  situated  in  the  narrow  strait  between  Salamis  and  the 
mainland,  near  the  point  where  the  battle  raged  most  fiercely.  On 
the  bank  opposite  the  island  was  erected  the  silver  throne  of  Xerxes 
whence  he  witnessed  the  defeat  of  his  vast  fleet  (B.  C.  480). 
An  ancient  monument  to  the  right  in  the  strait  leading  to  the 
harbour  is  styled  the  'Tomb  of  Themistocles' ;  above  it  is  the  monu- 
ment of  Miaulis,  the  victorious  admiral  in  the  wars  of  independence. 
As  soon  as  the  steamer  halts  it  is  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of 
small  boats,  the  owners  of  which  noisily  endeavour  to  attract 
the  attention  of  the  passengers ;  at  the  same  time  the  hotel-touters 
push  their  way  on  board.  Luggage  had  better  be  entrusted  to  the 
commissionaire  of  the  hotel  at  which  the  traveller  intends  to  stay, 
and  that  official  will  then  secure  a  boat  and  afterwards  a  car- 
riage. The  boat  (1  fr.  or  drachma;  with  luggage  2  fr.)  conveys 
the  traveller  to  the  dogana,  where  the  formality  of  examining 
luggage  is  generally  lenient.  Carriage  to  Athens  5-6  drachmas, 
pleasanter  than  the  railway  (p.  357).  At  the  Piraeus  (p.  356) 
there  are  several  poor  inns. 

From   Brindisi  to  the  Piraeus  by  Corfu  and  the 
Isthmus  of  Corinth. 

Brindisi,   see  p.  193.     On  quitting  the  harbour  the  steamer 
at  once  steers  towards  the  E.,  and  the  land  soon  disappears.    Next 
Baedekek.     Italy  III.     6th  Edition.  23 


354      Route  45.  CORFU.  Excursion 

day  towards  morning  the  outlines  of  Albania  (Turkey)  come  in 
sight ;  then  the  island  of  Corfu ;  and  the  strikingly  beautiful  situa- 
tion of  the  town  is  soon  disclosed.  Boat  to  or  from  the  steamer 
iy2~2  fr.  (insolent  boatmen,  no  tariff,  great  confusion;  passengers 
intending  to  continue  their  voyage  by  the  same  vessel  should  as- 
certain  from   the   captain  whenit  starts  again). 

Corfu.  —  'Hotel  d'Angleterke,  or  Bella  Venezia,  and  "Hotel  St. 
George,  both  of  the  first  class,  10-12  fr.  a  day.  Hotel  de  la  Vii.le  and 
Eukopa,  unpretending.  —  Wine  of  Ithaca,  1  fr.  per  bottle,  generally  drunk 
with  water;  that  of  the  Societa  Tedesca  di  Patras,  a  good,  strong  desert 
wine. 

Cafes.     Several  in  the  Esplanade.     Vienna  beer  at  the  hotels. 

Monet/.  English  shillings  are  still  much  circulated.  Notes  of  the 
Ionian  bank  are  generally  current,  but  those  of  the  Greek  bank  are  diffi- 
cult to  change. 

Post  Office,  adjoining  the  Sanita,  at  the  entrance  to  the  town  from 
the  sea.  —  Telegraph  Office  for  Greece  in  the  Esplanade.  English  office, 
for  England  and  other  countries ,  in  the  Via  Murajo ,  near  the  royal 
palace. 

Carriages  5  fr.  per  drive  in  the  town  or  environs ;  for  longer  ex- 
cursions, see  below. 

Valets  -de-  Place  are  useful  when  time  is  limited.  The  traveller 
should  ask  to  be  escorted  through  the  town  and  across  the  esplanade  to 
the  citadel. 

Theatre.    Italian  opera  in  winter. 

Corfu,  the  capital  of  the  island  of  that  name,  with  25,000 
inhab.  (including  the  suburbs  Castradis  and  Mantuki),  and  the 
seat  of  government  for  the  Ionian  Islands,  has  lately  become  a 
favourite  winter  residence  for  invalids.  The  spacious  and  safe  har- 
bour is  enlivened  with  a  busy  trade. 

Corfu  (Gr.  JTioxtiQU,  Lat.  Corcyra),  the  second,  but  most  important  of 
the  Ionian  Islands,  was  supposed  by  the  ancients  to  be  Sclieria,  the  land 
of  the  Phseaci  and  of  their  king  Alcinous.  Colonised  from  Corinth  at  an 
early  period  (B.  C.  734),  its  power  increased  so  greatly  as  to  become  dan- 
gerous to  its  mother  city ;  and  this  was  one  of  the  chief  causes  of  the 
Peloponnesian  War.  In  the  middle  ages  the  island  was  under  Venetian 
supremacy  (1386  to  1797) ;  from  1815  to  1863  it  was,  with  the  other  Ionian 
Islands,  under  the  protection  of  England  and  the  seat  of  government,  after 
which  it  was  ceded  to  the  kingdom  of  Greece.  King  George  has  frequently 
resided  here  in  summer. 

If  time  permits,  the  traveller  should  go  on  shore  and  walk 
through  the  town ;  the  Strada  Marina  skirting  the  sea,  situated  in 
in  the  S.  suburb  Castradis,  is  particularly  attractive.  We  cross  the 
Esplanade  and  proceed  to  the  Citadel,  a  monument  in  front  of 
which,  erected  by  the  republic  of  Venice,  commemorates  its  gallant 
defence  by  Count  von  der  Schulenburg  in  1716.  At  the  citadel  we 
obtain  a  card  of  permission  at  the  office  of  the  commandant  (frur- 
archion)  to  visit  the  whole  fortress,  including  the  *Telegraph,  its 
highest  point,  which  commands  a  magnificent  view  over  the  whole 
island,  from  the  Cape  Casopi  towards  the  N.  to  the  Capo  Bianco 
towards  the  S.  The  Monte  S.  Salvatore,  the  loftiest  point  in  the 
island,  is  upwards  of  2500  ft.  high.  Opposite  to  us  lies  the  Turkish 
coast  of  Epirus  with  its  lofty  mountains,  stretching  as  far  as  Suli 
and  Parga. 


to  Athens.  CORFU.  45.  Route.      355 

The  following  objects  will  also  interest  the  antiquarian :  a 
monument  in  honour  of  the  consul  Meneerates ,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  suburb  of  Castradis,  with  a  Greek  inscription  to  be  read 
backwards,  of  the  4th  cent;  an  antique  lion  in  the  vestibule  of 
the  king's  palace  (admission  free)  ;  an  ancient  capital  with  well 
preserved    colouring    in    the    Dimarchia  (town-hall). 

The  following  excursions  are  recommended,  if  time  permit : 

To  Kanoni,  a  beautiful  walk  of  2  hrs.  (carr.  5  fr.).  Passing  through 
the  suburb  of  Castradis ,  the  road  leads  to  the  left  to  the  royal  villa  of 
Monrepos ,  which  was  presented  by  the  town  to  the  king  on  his  arrival. 
A  side-road  diverges  here  to  the  left  to  the  village  of  Analipsis,  near 
which  are  the  ruins  of  a  Greek  temple.  The  main  road  then  leads  to 
the  old  harbour,  where  the  ancient  town  of  the  Phseaci  is  supposed 
to  have  been  situated.  Farther  on  we  reach  a  plateau  commanding  a 
beautiful  view,  called  Kanoni,  probably  from  once  having  been  the  site 
of  a  battery  (oranges  may  be  bought  at  the  wayside  gardens  at  5  e. 
each).  The  islet  of  Pondikonissi  (rat  island)  opposite  Kanoni,  now  oc- 
cupied by  a  monastery,  is  said  to  be  the  Phseacian  ship,  converted  into 
stone,  which  had  brought  Ulysses  to  Ithaca,  while  the  mouth  of  the 
brook  near  the  neighbouring  village  of  Chnjssida  is  pointed  out  as  the 
place  where  he  was  cast  ashore  and  met  with  the  princess  Nausicaa. 

To  Pelaka  (a  drive  of  4  hrs. ;  carriage  there  and  back  10  fr.)  and 
the  W.  coast  of  the  island,  of  which  a  fine  view  is  enjoyed,  including 
the  sea  and  the  mainland  opposite,  very  beautiful  towards  sunset.  A 
good  road. 

To  Gasturi,  and  as  far  as  the  Villa  Braila,  there  and  back  10  fr.  — 
The  village  of  Gasturi  is  famed  for  the  beauty  of  its  women. 

To  the  Monastery  of  Paleocastrizza,  a  whole  day,  carriage  20  fr.,  a 
very  pleasant  road  with  beautiful  views.    Refreshments  at  the  monastery. 

To  Monte  Pantai.eone,  also  a  whole  day,  carriage  20  fr.  —  Excellent 
road  as  far  as  the  last  saddle  of  the  mountain ,  whence  a  path  to  the 
left  ascends  to  the  summit  in  6-8  min. ;  delightful  view  of  the  whole  is- 
land. For  these  last  two  excursions  refreshments  should  be  taken  from 
the  hotel. 

"When  the  steamer  quits  the  harbour,  the  Albanian  Mountains 
and  the  island  remain  in  view.  Before  the  S.  point  of  Corfu 
(Capo  Bianco)  is  reached,  the  little  islands  of  Paxo  and  Antl- 
paxo  (together  called  Ilaijot  by  the  ancients)  become  visible  ;  the 
steamer  usually  stops  at  the  former.  The  mainland,  the  coast 
of  Epirus,  now  recedes ;  here,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ambracian 
Gulf,  near  Actium,  B.C.  31,  Augustus  laid  the  foundation  of 
his  monarchy  by  the  victory  gained  by  his  fleet  over  Antony. 
The  island  of  Sta.  Maura  (Aeovtaoioc)  remains  on  the  E.  ;  for 
a  short  time  Ithaca  is  seen  to  the  S.,  but  is  soon  concealed  by 
Cephalonia  (KecpocXXTjvia),  the  largest  of  the  Ionian  Islands, 
whose  W.  coast  is  now  skirted;  the  harbour  is  on  the  S.  side 
in  a  deep  bay,  at  the  capital  Argostoli.  In  the  distance  Zante 
(Zdxuvu-o;)  comes  in  sight,  with  the  harbour  of  that  name 
(where  a  prolonged  stay  is  sometimes  made.) 

The  steamer  now  takes  a  N.  direction;  opposite  is  the  coast 
of  the  Peloponnesus,  the  plain  of  Elis.  The  entrance  of  the  Gulf 
of  Corinth  is  approached ;  to  the  left  is  the  coast  of  yEtolia,  with 
Missolonghi,   noted  for  its  valiant  though   fruitless  defence  against 

23* 


356      Route  45.  KALAMAKI.  Excursion 

Ibrahim  Pasha  in  1826.  The  steamer  next  touches  at  Patras  (IlaT- 
pai),  an  important  commercial  town  (25,000  inhab.),  with  consu- 
lates of  most  of  the  European  states,  whence  currants  are  largely 
exported.  Farther  on,  the  steamers  sometimes  stop  at  Naupactos 
[Lepanto,  celebrated  for  the  naval  victory  of  Don  John  of  Austria 
in  1571)  on  the  Locrian  shore,  and  at  Vostitza  (A'tyo^)  on  the 
Peloponnesian.  To  the  right  are  the  summits  of  Erymanthus,  fre- 
quently covered  with  snow,  and  those  of  Cyllene ;  to  the  left  are 
Parnassus  and  Helicon ;  the  steamer  skirts  the  coast  of  the  Pelo- 
ponnesus and  stops  at  New  Corinth,  erected  about  3  M.  N.  of 
ancient  Corinth  after  the  total  destruction  of  the  latter  by  an  earth- 
quake in  1858. 

Omnibuses  are  here  in  waiting,  and  convey  travellers  in  3/4  hr. 
to  Kalamaki,  by  a  road  partly  constructed  by  the  Austrian  Lloyd.  To 
the  left  the  high  mountains  of  Megaris,  Qerania  (Tepdveia),  are 
seen ;  to  the  right  the  ruins  of  the  wall  which  once  crossed,  the 
isthmus  from  sea  to  sea,  and  of  the  sliding  road  (Diolkos)  for  ships 
and  goods  parallel  to  it.  After  a  drive  of  Yj  hrv  a*  some  distance 
from  the  road,  are  seen  the  scanty  remains  of  the  Isthmian  Sanc- 
tuary, where  the  Isthmian  games  were  once  celebrated  in  honour 
of  Poseidon.  The  road  is  guarded  by  numerous  military  patrols. 
When  the  road  descends,  Kalamaki ,  the  ancient  Schoinos, 
becomes  conspicuous;  immediately  after  the  arrival  of  the  omni- 
buses the  steamer  starts  for  the  Piraeus.  To  the  right  the  mountains 
of  Corinth  and  Argos  remain  in  view;  the  summits  of  Cyllene 
afterwards  appear  to  the  W.  with  Acrocorinth;  to  the  E.  jEgina 
emerges  from  the  sea ;  on  the  left  are  the  barren  heights  of  Sala- 
mis,  which  here  descend  abruptly  to  the  sea.  As  soon  as  it  is 
passed,  the  mountains  of  Attica  become  visible  ;  in  the  foreground 
the  hills  surrounding  Parnassus,  farther  S.  the  heights  of  Hy- 
mettus.     Landing  at  the  Piraeus,   see  p.  353. 

Road  to  Athens.  The  new  part  of  the  Piraeus  through  which 
the  high-road  to  Athens  leads,  presents  nothing  worthy  of  note. 
As  soon  as  we  have  quitted  the  town,  we  observe  traces  of  the 
ancient  walls  of  the  Piraeus  on  the  right,  at  the  point  where  the 
road  rises  slightly.  The  road  itself  is  constructed  on  the  long  N. 
wall  which  anciently  connected  the  Piraeus  with  the  city.  Then 
to  the  right  appears  the  Monument  of  Caraiscakis,  one  of  the  heroes 
of  the  War  of  Independence,  situated  near  the  spot  where  the  long 
S.  wall  united  with  the  fortifications  of  the  Piraeus.  Beyond  it 
is  the  Bay  of  Phaleron,  running  far  into  the  land,  with  a  royal  bath- 
establishment.  —  The  mountains  on  the  left  now  called  Scara- 
manga,  the  JEgaleus  and  Poikilon  of  antiquity,  are  low  spurs  of 
Parries.  A  stone  bridge  here  crosses  the  generally  dry  bed  of  the 
Cephissus.  Vineyards  are  then  passed,  and,  farther  on,  the  outskirts 
of  the  ancient  olive-grove  which  occupied  the  plain  of  the  Cephissus 
are  traversed.  Carriages  generally  stop  to  water  the  horses  at  some 


to  Athens.  ATHENS.  45.  Route.      357 

taverns  halfway,  where  the  traveller  may  order  a  Aouxo'j[j.ia  (ou 
pron.  oo),  a  sweetmeat  composed  of  sugar  and  rosewater,  much  in 
vogue  in  Turkey  and  Greece,  or  a  'petit  verre'  (por/.i)  of  jjwcsxtya 
(l  slightly  guttural),  a  liquor  of  not  unpleasant  flavour,  which 
becomes  milky  in  appearance  when  diluted  with  water.  Each  of 
these  refreshments  costs  10  lepta  (oexa  Xetltoc,  or  10  c).  —  The 
olive-plantations  are  soon  quitted,  and  a  hill  passed  which  conceals 
the  Acropolis  from  view.  Beyond  the  hill  the  well-preserved 
Temple  of  Theseus  becomes  visible  below ;  on  the  right,  above  it, 
the  Acropolis,  in  the  background  the  monument  of  Philopappus,  in 
front  of  the  latter  the  Areopagus,  and  farther  to  the  right  the 
observatory.  —  The  miserable  houses  of  the  Hermes  Street  soon 
exclude  this  view.  Farther  on  the  houses  improve ;  on  the  left 
the  broad  Athena  Street  diverges.  We  then  reach  the  centre 
of  the  city,  at  the  intersection  of  the  iEolus  and  Hermes  streets, 
pass  round  the  interesting  church  of  Capnikaraea,  and  (obtaining 
a  view  of  the  lofty  modern  cathedral  on  the  right)  arrive  at  the 
spacious  palace  square,   where  the  hotels  are  situated. 

Railway  to  Athens.  Trains  run  from  the  Pirreus  to  Athens 
every  hour  (fares  1  dr.,  60  1.,  45  1.).  Immediately  after  leaving  the 
seaport  the  line  crosses  the  road  and  traverses  higher  ground, 
affording  a  survey  of  the  olive-groves  and  the  N.  part  of  the  plain 
of  Athens.  The  Station  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Temple  of  Theseus, 
at  the  lower  end  of  the  Hermes  Street. 

Athens.  Hotels.  "Hotel  d'Angleteeee  ,  pension  12  fr. ;  "Gkande 
Eeetagne  ;  "Hotel  des  Eteangees  ;  "Hotel  de  Btzance  (in  the  old  Ecole 
Francaise) ;  all  in  the  Palace  Square.  Hotel  d'Amkeique  ,  formerly 
d* Orient,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  jEolus  street.  At  all  these,  B,.,  B., 
and  D.  10  fr.  a  day  and  upwards.  Hotel  de  la  Coueonne  ,  opposite 
the  unfinished  theatre ;  d'Athenes  and  de  Paeis,  in  the  Hermes  street ; 
R.  at  these  three  2 — 4  fr.  —  Restaurants  in  the  hotels  (good  at  the  Athenes) 

A  description  of  Athens  by  K .  Bredeker ,  and  sold  by  Wilberg 
at  Athens  has  been  published  in  a  separate  form ,  and  to  this  the 
reader  is  in  the  mean  time  referred.  A  Handbook  for  Greece  is  in 
course  of  preparation. 


INDEX. 


Abacaenum  282. 

Abate  266. 

Abbadiazza  290. 

Abella  168. 

Abellinum  169. 

Acciano  185. 

Accumoli  183. 

Acerenza  197. 

Acerra  10. 

Acerrae  10. 

Acesines  299. 

Achates  274. 

Acherontia  197. 

Acherusian  Lake  101. 

Aci,  Isola  d'  300. 

Aci  Castello  300. 

Aci  Reale  300. 

Aciris  209. 

Acis  300. 

Acithis  253. 

Acqua  Dolce  280. 

Acquaviva  204. 

Acrae  276. 

Acragas  261. 

Acrocorinth  356. 

Actium  355. 

Aderno  269. 

vEgadian  Islands  252. 

jEgaleus  356. 

iEgina  352. 

jEgusa  252. 

jEnaria  103. 

Aeolian  Islands  291. 

JEsernia,  181. 

vEtna,  Mount  307. 

^Etolia  355. 

S.  Agata,  near  Sessa  18. 

— ,  near  Sorrento  149. 

— ,  Sicily  280. 

—  de'  Goti  179. 
Agatltyrnum  280. 
Ager  Falernus  19. 

—  Taurianus  201. 
Agerola  167. 
Agira  268. 

Agnano,  Lago  d'  89. 
S.  Agnello  146. 
Agno,  1'  10. 
Agnone  314. 
Agosta  314. 

Agri,  river  209. 
Agrigentum  261. 
Agrippina,  Sepolcro  d' 97. 


Agyrium  268. 
Aiabon  314. 
Aigion  356. 
Akrai  276. 
Alaesa  280. 
Alanno  180. 
Alaro  211. 
Alatri  2. 

Alba  Fucentia  187. 
Albano  1. 
Albe  187. 
Alberi  150. 
Albino,  Monte  162. 
Alburnus  197. 
Alcamo  247. 
Alessano  196. 
S.  Alessio  295. 
— ,  Capo  295. 
Alesus  280. 
Aletrium  2. 
S.  Alfio  300. 
Alghero  341. 
Ali  295. 
Alia  260.  266. 
Alicata  272. 
Alicuri  293. 
Alimena  283. 
Alii,  river  210. 
Altarello  di  Baida  242. 
Altavilla  259. 
Altilia  173. 
Aluntium  280. 
Alvano,  Vico  150. 
Amalfl  163. 
Amandolea  211. 
Amantea  227. 
Amanita  227. 
Amara,  Monte  172.  181. 
Amaseno,  river  13. 
Amatrice  183. 
Ametianus  306. 
Amendolara  209. 
Amesiratns  280. 
Amiternum  185. 
Amorosi  179. 
Amyclae  15. 
Anacapri  154. 
Anagni  2. 
Anagnia  2. 
Analipsis  355. 
Anapus,  river  327. 
Anazzo  193. 
Ancona  171. 


Ancyra  258. 

S.  Andrea  211. 

S.  Andrea,  Monte  15. 

Andria  191. 

S.  Angelo,  monastery  168. 

— ,  Monte,  near  Sorrento 

145. 
— ,  — ,  Lipari  292. 
— ,  — ,  Volscians  Mts.  1. 
— ,  — ,  the  Little  150. 167. 
S.  Angelo  in  Formis  9. 

—  a  Guida  167. 
Angri  156. 
Antenna,  Pizzo  279. 
Antignano  86. 
Anti-Milos  352. 

S.  Antimo  179. 
Antiniim  188. 
S.  Antioco  331. 
Antipaxo  355. 
Antrodoco  183. 
Antullo,  il  Pozzo  d'  3. 
Anxa  195- 
Anxanum  173. 
Anxur  13. 

Apennines,  the  169. 
— ,  Central  183. 
Apice  177. 
Apollonia  280. 
Apricena  174. 
Aqua  Cornelia  259. 

—  Julia  98. 
Aquae  Cutiliae  183. 
Aquila  184. 
Aquino  3. 
Aqiiininn  3. 
Aragona  260. 

Aranci,  Fiumara  dell'  282. 

Arangia,  Fiumara  282. 

Arbore   150. 

Arce  190. 

Arci,  Monte  339. 

Arco  204. 

Arco  Felice  99. 

Arco  Naturale  (Capri)153. 

near  Sorrento  150. 

Ardara  341. 
Ardore  211. 
Arena,  river  255. 
Arena  Bianca  201. 
Arenella  86. 
Argentario,  Mte.  20. 
Argolis  352. 


INDEX. 


359 


Argostoli  S55. 

Argyripe  175. 

Ariane  351. 

Ariano  176. 

— ,  Monte  1. 

Ariccia  11. 

Arienzo  10. 

Aritzo  343. 

Armi,  Capo  dell'  211.  352. 

Arpaia  10. 

Arpi  175. 

Arpinas,  Insula  189. 

Arpino  189. 

Arpinum  189. 

Arso,  Lava  dell'  104. 

Arsoli  188. 

Artemisio,  Monte  1. 

Artesino,  Monte  267. 

Arx  Volscorum  190. 

Ascensione,   Monte  della 

171. 
Ascoli  Apulo  176. 
—  Piceno  171. 
Asculum  Picenum  171. 
Asinara  331. 
Asinaros  277. 
Asinello  251. 
Asmarus  317. 
Aso,  brook  171. 
Aspromonte,  Mt.  212.  228. 
Assaro  268. 
Assergi  185. 
Assimini  339. 
Assorits  268. 
Astore,  Monte  202. 
Astroni  90. 
Atella  198. 
Atella  179. 
Atena  199. 

Aterno,  river  180.  183. 
Athens  357. 
Atina  199. 
Atrani  163. 
Atri  172.  183. 
Atrio  del  Cavallo  112. 
Atripalda  169. 
Atzara  344. 
Aufidus  190.  198. 
Augusta  314. 
Auletta  197. 
Auricarre  204. 
Ausculutn  Apulum  176. 
Auximum  171. 
Avella  168. 
Avellino  169. 
Avernus,  Lacus  95. 
Aversa  179. 
Avezzano  187. 
AvigHano  198. 
Avola  277. 

Bacoli  97. 
Badolato  211. 


Bagaria  244. 
Bagnara  203. 
Bagni  di  Nerone  96. 

di  Paterno  183. 
Bagnoli  90. 
Bagnolo  195. 
Bahira,  El  345. 
Baja  96. 
Baiae  96. 
Baida  242. 
Balensul  276. 
Balzo  di  TrifogHetto  312. 
S.  Bannaba,   Monte   252 
Bantia  199. 

Banzi,  Abbadia  de'  199. 
Baranica  150. 
Barbagia,  la  343. 
Barbaro,  Monte  248. 
Barbarossa,    Castello    di 

154. 
Barcellona  282. 
Bardo,  the  346.  348. 
Bari  192. 
— ,  Mola  di  193. 
Barium  192. 
Barletta  190. 
Baronisi  168. 
Barra,  La  110. 
Barrafranca  270. 
Barucu,  Monte  275. 
Basento,    river   197.  208. 
Basilicata,  the  170.  197. 
S.  Basilio  204. 
—  Pisticci  208. 
Basiluzzo  294. 
Batinvs  172. 
BattagHa  204; 
BattipagHa  159. 
Bauladu  340. 
Bauli  276. 
Baitli  97.   ' 
Bavuso  283. 
Beffi  185. 
Belbina  353. 
Belici,  river  256. 
Bellici  Sinistro  257. 
Bellizzi  159. 
Belmonte  227. 
Belpasso  269. 
Belvedere  227. 
Belvedere,  Monte  246. 
S.  Benedetto  171.  1S7. 
Benevento  177. 
S.  Biagio,  river  272. 
Biancavilla  269. 
Bianconuovo  211. 
Bicocca  268.  313. 
Biferno,  river  174. 
Birgi,  river  253. 
Bisacquino  257. 
Biscari  274. 
Bisceglie  192. 
Bitetto  204. 


Bitonto  192. 

Bivona  202. 

liocca  di  Fiume  13. 

Boccadifalco  242. 

Boeo,  Capo  254. 

Boiano  182. 

Bon,  Cape  344. 

Bonannaro  341. 

Bonfornello  278. 

Bonifato,  Monte  247. 

Bonorva  340. 

Borghetto  246. 

Borrone  254. 

Borutta  341. 

Bosa  340. 

Bosco  tre  Case  117. 

Botte,  la  14. 

Botte,  Canale  delle  12. 

Bova  211. 

Bovalino  211. 

Bove,  Val  di  300.  312. 

Bovianvm    182. 

Bovino  176. 

Bradano,  the  208. 

Brancaleone  211. 

Brentesion  193. 

Brilessus  353. 

Brindisi  193. 

Brolo  281. 

Bronte  302. 

Brucato  259. 

Brucoli  314. 

Bruncu  Spina,  Punta  343. 

Brundisium  193-. 

Buccheri  276. 

Buccino  196. 

Buffaloria  di  Cassano209. 

Buonalbergo  177. 

Buongiorno  266. 

Buonpietro  283. 

Busamara,  Kalata  257. 

Busambra  257. 

Buscemi  276. 

Busento,  river  200. 

Bussi  180. 

Butera  273. 

Buttigliara,  river  321. 

Cabras  339. 
Cabrera  352. 
Caccamo  259. 
Cacyparis  277. 
Caesar,  Villa  of  97. 
Cagliari  335. 
— ,  Stagno  di  336.  339. 
Caianiello  7.  182. 
Caieta  17. 
Cairo,  Monte  6. 
Calabria  170.  200. 
Calacte  280. 
Calascibetta  267. 
Calatabiano  299. 
Calatafimi  247. 


360 


INDEX. 


Calava,  promontory  281. 

Caldare  260. 

Cales  7. 

Callipolis  195. 

S.  Calogero,    Monte   257. 

260. 
— ,  Lipari  292. 
Calore,  river  173.  177.  199. 
Caltabelotta  258. 
— ,  river  258. 
Caltagirone  270. 
Caltanissetta  271. 
Caltavuturo  283. 
Calvi  7. 

Calvo,  Monte  176.  183. 
Camaldoli  near  Naples  87. 

—  near  Sorrento  143. 

—  dell'  Avvocata  163. 

—  di  Meta  150. 

—  della  Torre  109. 
Camaldolilli  87. 
Camarana,  river  274. 
Camavina  274. 
Camicus  260. 
C'ammarata  200.  260. 
— ,  Pizzo  di  260. 
Campana  209. 
Campanaro,  Monte  266. 
Campanella ,     Punta     di 

148. 
Campania  7.  88. 
Campedda,  la  340. 
Oampestrino,Ponte  di  199. 
Campi  207. 
Campi  Geloi  273. 

—  Laestrigonii  313. 

—  Palentini  188. 

—  Veteres  197. 
Campo  Bianco  293. 

—  di  Giove  181. 

—  di  Mela  341. 

—  Lazarn  341. 

—  Periculo  185. 

—  Tenese  200. 
Campobasso  173. 
Campobello  255. 

—  di  Licata  271. 
Campomarino  174. 
Canalotti  251. 
Caneello  10. 
Canciani,  Li  87. 
Candela  176. 
Canega  341. 
Canieatti  271. 
Can/iae  191. 
Cannita  245. 
Cannole  195. 
Canosa  191. 

Cantara,    river    298.  299 

314. 
Cantone,  fiumara  282. 
Cantone,  Marina  del  149. 
Canitsivm  191. 


Capaccio  Nuovo  160. 

—  Veechio  160. 
Capistrello  188. 
Capitanata,  the  170.  174. 
Capiti  162. 

Capo  Bianco  258.  355. 

—  d'Acqua  182. 
Castella  210. 
Soprano  273. 

Capodimonte     near    Na- 
ples 47. 

—  near  Sorrento  148. 
Caposele,  Villa  16. 
Cappadocia  188. 
Cappelliere  257. 
Capraja  19. 
Capreae  152. 
Caprera  331. 

Capri  150. 
Capua  7. 
Caralis  336. 
Carbonara,  Capo  336. 
Carcaci,  Ponte  269. 
Cardillo,  Monte  270. 
Cariati  209. 
Carini  246. 
Carlentini  313. 
Caronia,  Bosco  di  280. 
Carotto  146. 
Carovigno  193. 
Carpanzano  201. 
Carpineto  2. 
Carseoli  1S8. 
Carsoli  188. 
Cartellemi  269. 
Carthage  348. 
Carthagena,  Cape  345. 
Casa  del  Bosco  310. 

Inglese  310. 
Casabona  105. 
Casalbordino  173. 
Casalnuovo  10.  200. 
Casamicciola  104. 
Cascano  19. 
Cascia  183. 
Caserta  9. 
Cas/[inum  7. 
Casino  Chiriaco  202. 
Catimtm  4. 
Casmenae  274. 
Casopi,  Cape  354. 
Casoria  179. 
Casotta  di  Napoli  183. 
Cassano  204.  209. 
Cassaro  277. 
Cassibile,  river  277. 
Cassino  4. 
Castagna,  Capo  293. 
Castanea  290. 
Castel  di  Sangro  181. 

—  di  Tusa  280. 
Casteldaccia  259. 

'astelfidardo  171. 


Castel  Fiorentino  175. 
Castella,  Capo  210. 
Castellamare     di    Stibia 

143. 
(Sicily)  247. 
Castellaneta  204. 
Castello  del  Monte  191. 

in  Parco  156. 
Castelluccio  200. 
Casteltermini  260. 
Castelvetere  211. 
Castelvetrano  248. 
Castiglione  301. 
Castro  196. 
Castrogiovanni  267. 
Castronuovo  260. 
Castrovillari  200. 
Castrum  Minervae  196. 

Novum  172. 
S.  Cataldo  271. 

-,  Castello  di  195. 
Catalfano,     Monte     228. 

244. 
Catana  303. 
Catania  302. 

-,  Piano  di  269.  313. 
Catanzaro  210. 
Catena  del  Marghine  340. 
Catenanuova  268. 
S.  Caterina  near  Reggio 

204. 

—  (Sicily)  266. 

—  near  Squillace  211. 
Caudium  10. 
Caulonia  211. 

Cava,  la  157. 

Cavalli,  Monte  de'  257. 

Cazzano,  Marina  di  146. 

Ceccano  3. 

Oedrc'nus  344. 

Cefalii  279. 

Celano  186. 

Cento  Camerelle  97. 

Centorbi  268. 

Centuripe  268. 

Gephaloedium  279. 

Cephalonia  355. 

Cephissus,  the  356. 

Ceprano  3. 

Cerboli  20. 

Cerda  260. 

Cerignola  190. 

Cerigo  352. 

Cerrilla,  Boschi  della  309. 

Certosa,  the  (near  Mileto) 

202. 
Cervaro  6.  176. 
— ,  river  176.  206. 
Cesarano  150.  162. 
S.  Cesario  di  Lecce   195. 
Cetara  163. 
Cetraro  227. 
Charybdis  203.  290. 


INDEX. 


361 


Chalcidicus,  Mons  289. 
Chiaiolella  103. 
Chiaramonte  274. 
Chiazza  270. 
Chienti,  river  171. 
Chiesazza,  la  259. 
Chieti  180. 
Chieuti  174. 
Chirica,  Monte  293. 
Chiunzo,  Monte  162. 
— ,  Torre  di  162. 
Chiusa  275. 
Choerades  204. 
Chrysas  268. 
Chryssida  355. 
Ciampino  1. 
Ciani,  brook  328. 
Cicala  168. 

Cicci,  Monte  288.  290. 
Cicero's  Tomb  16. 
Ciclopi,  Scogli  dei  300. 
Cifali,  Bagni  di  266. 
Cimiti,  Capo  delle  210. 
Cinquemiglia,    Piano    di 

181. 
Cintaria,  la  252. 
Ciocca  342. 
Girceii  13. 
Circeo,  Monte  13. 
Ciro  209. 
Cisterna  12. 
Citta  Vecchia  330. 
Civita  d'Antino  188. 

—  Ducale  183. 

—  Lavinia  1. 

—  Eeale  183. 

—  Santangelo  172. 

—  Vecchia  20. 
Civitanova  171. 
Civitella  Roveto  188. 
C'lanius  10. 

S.  Clemente  156. 

—  di  Casauria  180. 
Cocuzzo,  Monte  201.  227. 
Codola  168. 
Codrongianus  341. 
Cotano  252. 

Collepardo,  Grotta  di  3. 
Colles  Leucogwi  94. 
Collesano  278. 
Colonne,  Capo  delle  210. 
Colonnetta  251. 
Comino  331. 

Comiso  274. 
Comitini  260. 
Conca  166.  167. 
— ,  Punta  di  167. 
— ,  Gorge  of  148. 
Conca  d'Oro,  la  230. 
Concazze,  Serra  delle  312. 
Conero,  Mte.  170. 
Confini,  Torre  de'  15. 
S.  Cono  270. 


Consentia  200. 

Contessa  257. 

Conti  delle  Fontanelle  150 

—  di  Geremenna  150. 167. 

Contursi  196. 

Copiae  209. 

Coppola,  Monte  145. 

Corace,  river  201 .  204. 

Coraci  201. 

Corato  191. 

Corcyra  354. 

Corfu  354. 

Corfinium  1S5. 

Cori  11. 

Corigliano  Calabro  209. 

Corigliano     near     Lecce 

195. 
Corinth  356. 
Corleone  257. 
Corno,  Monte  185. 
Cornus  339. 
Coroglio,  Capo  85. 
Corpo  di  Cava  157. 
Correboi,  Col  di  343. 
Correse,  Passo  di  183. 
Corvo,  Monte  252. 
Cosa  209. 

Coscile,  river  209. 
Cosenza  200. 
Cossyra  253. 
S.  Costanzo.  Mte.  148. 
Cotrone  210. 
Crancotta,    Fiumara  2S2 
Crapolla  149. 
Crathis  209. 
Crati,  river  200.  209. 
Crimissus  247. 
Crimiti,    Monte  321. 
CroccMo,  river  210. 
S.  Croce  274. 
— ,  Capo  314. 
Crocella,  la  154. 
Crocelle  di  Agrifoglio, 

le  201. 
Croton  210. 
Crucoli  209. 
Cuba,  la  240. 
Cuccio,  Monte  228. 
Cumae  100. 
Cunano,  Monte  302. 
Cupra  Marittima  171. 
Cutro  210. 
Cutto,  Monte  302. 
Cyane,  Fountain  328. 
Cyclades,  the  352. 
Cyclopean  Islands  300. 
Cyme  100. 
Cythera  352. 

Damecuta  154. 
Damusi  269. 
Daunus  198. 
Decima,  Fiumara  299. 


Decimomannu  338.  339. 
S.  Demetrio  185. 
Deserto  149. 
Diamante  227. 
Diana,  Castello  di  266. 
Diano  199. 
— ,  the  199. 
Dicaearchia  91. 
Didyme  293. 
Dinnamari,  Mt.  288. 
Dirillo,  river  274. 
Dittaino,  river  268. 
Divieto  283. 
S.  Domenico  174. 

—  Soriano  202. 
S.  Donate  195. 
Dragonara,  Grotta  98. 
Drepanon  251. 
Duchessa,  la  197. 
Due  Fratelli  163.  327. 
Dugenta  179. 

Eboli  159.  196. 

Egesta  247. 

Egnatia  193. 

Eircta  243. 

Eknomos  272. 

Elba  20. 

Eleutherus  245. 

S.  Elia,   Monte  200.  203. 

— ,  Capo  336. 

St.   Elias,   Mt.    (Aegina) 

352. 
Elmas  339. 
S.  Elpidio  171. 
Enguium  283. 
Enna  267. 
Entella  257. 

Epitafia,  Torre  deir  15. 
Epitaffio,  Punta  dell'  9C. 
Epomeo,  Monte  105. 
Epomeus  103. 
Epopeus  103. 
Equa  145. 
Erbe  Bianche  269. 
Erbessus  271. 
Ericusa  293. 
Eryx  252. 
Etna  269. 
Etnea  301. 
S.  Eufemia  202. 
— ,  Golfo  di  202.  228. 
Euonymus  294. 
Eurotas,  the  352. 

Fabrateria  nova  3. 

—  vetus  3. 
Fagnano  185. 
Falconara  273. 
— ,  river  277. 
Falconari  253. 
Falcone,  Mte.  252. 
Falconers  352. 


362 


INDKX. 


Falconiera,  Monte  245. 

Falernits,  Ager  19. 

Faraglioni,  1 153. 155.300. 

Farina,  Cape  344. 

Faro  290. 

Fasano  193. 

Fata  Donnavilla,    Grotto 

of  282. 
Favara  272. 
— ,  la  245. 
Favarotta  270. 
Favignana  252. 
Favorita,  la,  near  Portici 

109. 
— ,  near  Palermo  244. 
S.  Felice  10.  13. 
S.  Ferdinando  295. 
Ferentino  2. 
Ferentinum  2. 
Ferentum  199. 
Ferla  277. 
Fermo  171. 
Ferru,  Monte  339. 
Fibrenus,  river  189. 
Ficarazelli  244.  259. 
Fiearazzi  244.  259. 
Ficuzza  257. 
Figlino  162. 
Filicuri  293. 
S.  Filippo  d'Argiro  268. 
Filosofo,  Torre  del  312. 
Finale  280. 
Finisterra ,     promontory 

196. 
Firmum  Picenum  171. 
Fiumarone,  river  182. 
Frame   freddo    227.    247. 

299. 

—  Grande  278.  283. 

—  Salso  266.  268. 272.  283. 

—  Torto  260.  278.  283. 
Fiumicello,  river  266. 
Fiumicino  20. 

S.  Flavia  244.  259. 

S.  Flaviano  172. 

Floridia  276.  317. 

FlumendoSa,  river  343. 

Foggia  174. 

Foi,  Monte  197. 

Fundi  15. 

— ,  Lake  of  15. 

Fonni  343. 

Fons  Bandusiae  199. 

Fontana  105.  190. 

—  Congiada  343. 

—  Grande  199. 

—  Vecchia  299. 
Fontecchio  185. 
Fonles  Leucogaei  94. 
Fordungianus  339. 
Foronza  199. 
Forio   105. 

Forli  181. 


Formia  16. 
Formiae  16. 
Formianum  16. 
Fornacelle  150.  167. 
Forno,  II  98. 
Foro  Appio  12. 
Fortore,  river  174. 
Forum  Appii  12. 

—  Popilii  199. 

—  Trajani  340. 

—  Vulcani  94. 
Forza  295. 
Fossacesia  173. 
Fossa  nuova  13. 
Francavilla  172.  202. 

S.    Francesco    di    Paola. 

monast.  148. 
S.  Franco,  Monte  185. 
Francolisi  19. 
S.  Fratello  280. 
— ,  Fiumara  280. 
Fratta-Grumo  179. 
Fregellae  3. 
Frento  174. 
Frosinone  3. 
Frumento,  Monte  312. 
Fi-usino  3. 

Fucino,  Lago  di  186. 
Fundi  15. 
Fuorigrotta  82.  89. 
FurculaeCaudinae  10.179. 
Furiano,  Fiumara  di  280. 
Furore  166. 
Fusaro,  Foce  del  101. 
— ,  Lago  del  101. 
Fuscaldo<i227. 

Gabes,  Bay  of  350. 
Gaeta  17. 

,  Mola  di  16. 
Gaggera,  river  247. 
Gagliano  268. 
Galaesus  207. 
Galati  295. 
Galatina  195. 
Galli,  I  149. 
Gallico  204. 
Gallipoli  195. 
Gallo,  Capo  228.  352. 
Galugnano  195. 
Gangi  283. 

Gargano,  Monte  174.  176. 
Garigliano,  river  3.  18. 
Garofalo,  the  290. 
Gasturi  355. 
Gaulos  331. 
S.  Gavino  339. 
Gavoi  344. 
Gefala  266. 
Gela  273. 
Gela,  river  274. 
Gennargentu,  Mt.  343. 
Gerace  211. 


Gerania,  the  353.  356. 
Gerhini  268. 
S.  Germano  4. 
— ,  Stufe  di  89. 
Gesso  283. 
S.  Giacomo  209. 
Giambra  276. 
Giampilieri  295. 
Giannutri  20. 
Giara,  la  343. 
Giardinetto  176. 
Giardini  295. 
Giarre  299. 
Giarretta,  river  313. 
Giave  340. 
Gibelrosso  266. 
Gibilmanna  279. 
Giganti,  Grotta  de'  245. 
Giglio  20. 
Gioja  in  Apulia  202. 

—  in  Calabria  204.  228. 
Giojosa  211.  281. 

S.  Giorgio  168.  207.  342. 
S.  Giovanni  Battista  254. 

—  in  Carico  3. 

—  de  Sinis  339. 

—  a  Teduccio  106.  110. 
Giovinazzo  192. 
Girgenti  260. 

— ,  Molo  di  258. 
Giuliana  257. 
S.  Giuliano,   Monte   271. 
Giulianova  172. 
Giurdignano  195. 
S.  Giuseppe  157. 
Gizio,  river  180. 
Gnathia  193. 
Gobbo,  Rio  343. 
Gojola,  la  85. 
Goletta  345. 
Gonzaga,  Fort  289. 
Gorgo  di  Cotone  249. 
Gorgona  19. 
Gozzo  331. 
Gradelle,  Punta  154. 
Gragnano  145.  167. 
Grammichele  270. 
Gran  Sasso   d'ltalia   185. 
Granitola,   Punta  di  255. 
Gratteri  279. 
Gravina  310. 
S.  Gregorio  212. 
Griffone,  Monte  228.  244. 

266. 
Grigio,  Monte  312. 
Grotta  d'Averno  95. 

—  Azzurra  154. 
Bianca  155. 

—  del  Bove  310. 
del  cane  89. 

—  della  Maga  13. 
della  Pace  100. 
delle  Stalattite  155. 


INDEX. 


863 


Grotta  della  Sibilla  254 

—  Verde  155. 
Grottammare  171. 
Grotte,  Le  271. 
Orumentum  200. 
Grumo  204. 
Guardia  227. 

— ,  Monte  di  292. 
Guardia  S.  Framondi  173. 
Guasco,  Monte  171. 
Gulfa,  La  266. 
Gurnalunga ,    river   270, 

313. 
Gurrita  302. 
S.  Gusmano,  river  314. 

Kadranum  269. 
Hadria  172.  183. 
Halycus  258. 
Hammam  Gorbos  350. 
Hammam  Lif  350. 
Heloros  277. 
Hemichara  283. 
Hephaestiades  291. 
Heraclea  209. 
Heraclea  Minoa  258. 
Heracleia  107. 
Herculaneum  107. 
Herdonia  176. 
Hiera  252.  293. 
Himera  278. 

Himera  Meridionalis  266. 
272.  283. 

—  Septentrionalis27&.283. 
Hipparis  274. 
Hipponium  202. 
Histonium  173. 

Hybla  Heraea  274. 
Hybla  Megara  314. 
Hybla  Minor  269. 
Hyccara  246. 
Hydra  352. 
Hydruntum  195. 
Hymettus   353. 
Hypsas  256. 

Iglesias  338. 
Imele,  river  188. 
Imera  266. 
Inarime  103. 
Inice,  Monte  248. 
Insulae  Diomedeae  174. 
Interamna  172. 
Interocrea  183. 
Interpromium  180. 
Iri,  the  352. 
Ischia  103. 
Ischitella  176. 
Isclero,  the  179. 
Isernia  181. 
tsili  343. 
Isola  189. 
Isola  Ferdinandea  257. 


Isola  Longa  254. 

—  Salina  293. 
Isoletta  3. 
Ispica,  Val  d'  275. 
Ithaca  355. 

Itri  15. 
Jamur  344. 
Jem,  El  350. 

Kalamaki  351.  356. 
Kamart  349.  350. 
Kanoni  355. 
Karthada  350. 
Kasr-Sad  245. 
Kasr-Yanni  267. 
Kayruan  350. 
Keff  350. 

Kolonnaes,  Cape  353. 
Korliun  257. 
Kuluri  353. 

Laccie,  Monte  252. 
Lacco  105. 

Lacinian  promontory210. 
Laconi  343. 
Lams  Amyclanus  15. 
Avernus  95. 

—  Cutiliae  183. 

—  Fucinus  186. 
Fundanus  15. 
Lucrinus  95. 
Niger  200. 

—  Palicorum  270. 
Lagonegro  200. 
Lamato,  river  202. 
Lanciano  173. 
Landro  266. 
Landro,  river  197. 
— ,  Fiumara  282. 
Lanuvium  1. 

Lao,  river  200. 

Laos  200. 

Lapa,  Mte.  298. 

Larino  173. 

Larinvm  173. 

Lascari  279. 

Latignano,  Pozzo  di  183. 

Laura  169. 

Lauria  200. 

Lattrioit,  Frovwnt.  353. 

Lautulae  15. 

Lavello  199. 

S.  Lazaro,  Fort  167. 

Lazaro,  Campo  341. 

Lazzaro  212. 

Lecce  195. 

Leghorn  19. 

Lene  165. 

Lentini  313. 

Biviere  di  270. 
S.  Leonardo  175. 
Leonessa  183. 
Leonforte  268. 


Leontiiwi  313. 
Lepanto  355. 
Lepre,  Monte  302. 
Lercara  260. 
Lesina,  Lago  di  174. 
Lesta  183. 

Lete  Vivo,  brook  171. 
Letojanni ,     Fiumara    di 

295. 
Lettere  145. 

Leuca,  promontory  196. 
Leuca  196. 
Leucadia  355. 
Levante,  Porto  di  293. 
Levanzo  252. 
Liberatore,  Monte  157. 
Licata  272. 
Licatia  310. 

Licodia,  S.  Maria  di  269. 
Licosa,   Punta  della  227. 
Lilibeo,  Capo  254. 
Lilybaeum  254. 
Linaro,  Capo  20. 
Linguaglossa  301. 
S.   Lionardo,    river    266. 

259.  314. 
Lipari  291. 
Lipari  Islands  291. 
Liris,  river  3.  18.  188. 
Lisca  Bianca  294. 
Locri  Epizephyrii  211. 
S.  Lorenzo  13. 
— ,  Certosa  199. 
S.  Lorenzo  Maggiore  178. 
Loreto  171. 
Lucania  170.  196. 
Luce  209. 
Lucera  175. 
Luceria  175. 
S.  Lucia,  Fiumara  282. 
S.  Lucido  227. 
Luco  187. 

Lucrinus,  Lacus  95. 
Lhcus  Angitiae  187. 
Lungarina  277. 
Lvpia  195. 
Lupone,  Monte  1. 

Macara  258. 
Maccaluba  265. 
Maccaroni,  Ponte  de1  269. 
Macchia  182. 
Macomer  340. 
Macopsisa  340. 
Maddalena  331. 
Maddaloni  10.  179. 
Madiuni,  river  249. 
Madonian  Mountains  266. 

278. 
Madonna  deir  Autu  247. 

di   Camarana  274. 
—  Nera  281. 

della  Eocca  299. 


364 


INDEX. 


Madonna  di  Saccargia  342. 

—  di  Siponto  175. 

—  di  Trapani  252. 
Madredonna  276. 
Maenza  13. 
Maestra,  La  298. 
Maga,  Grotta  della  13. 
Maglie  195. 

Magna  Graecia  170.  197. 
Magnisi  314. 
Maida  202. 
Maina,  the  352. 
Majella,  Mt.  172.  181. 
Majori  163. 

Malaspina,  Monte  293. 
Mai    Consiglio ,     Scoglio 

del  251. 
Malea,  Cape  352. 
Maletta  302. 
Maleventum  177. 
Malta  328. 
Malvagna  301. 
Mamojada  344. 
Mandas  343. 
Manduria  207. 
Manfredonia  175. 
Mangano  300. 
Mangonaro  266. 
Maniace  302. 
Mannu,  river  343. 
Manopello  180. 
Manuba,  the  348. 
Marabella,  Pizzo  di  246. 
Marano  171. 

Marcello,    Torre  del  314. 
Marcianise  179. 
S.  Marco  280. 
S.  Marco,  Cape  339. 
Mareeoccola ,     Telegrafo 

di  150. 
Mare  Dolce  245. 

—  Grande  204. 

—  Morto  98. 

—  Piccolo  204. 

—  Pontis  339. 
Marescia  204. 

S.  Margarita  103. 
S.  Margherita  258. 
S.  Maria,  near  Massa  Lu- 
breuse  148. 

—  di  Capua  8. 

—  a  Castello  150. 

—  di  Leuca  196. 

—  di  Licodia  269. 

—  di  Luco  187. 

—  Maggiore  8.  156. 

—  a  Jlonte  Vergine  258. 

—  della  Neve  149. 

—  della  Scala  290. 

—  del   Soccorso    153. 

—  della  Valle  290. 

—  della  Vittoria  188. 
Marina  del  Cantone  149. 


Marina  di  Cazzano  146. 

—  di  Seiano  146. 
Marino  1. 
Maritimo  252. 
Marno,  river  197. 
Marro,  river  203. 
Marrubiu  339. 
Marrubium  187. 
Marsa  348.  349. 
Marsala  254. 
Marsico  200. 
Mascali  299. 
Mascalucia  310. 
Massa  Lubrense  148. 

—  di  Somma  115. 
Massafra  204. 
Massico,  Monte  19. 
Massolivieri,      promont. 

315. 
Matapan,  Cape  352. 
Matrinus  172. 
S.  Maura  355. 
Mazai'its  255. 
Mazzara  255. 
Mazzarino  271 . 
Meana  344. 
Megarean  Bay  314. 
Megaris  353.  356. 
Mehdia  350. 
Jlelfl  198. 

— ,  Pizzuto  di  198. 
Meiingunis  291. 
Melite  329. 
Melito  211. 
Mellili  314. 
Menfrici  256. 
Menzil-Yussuf  266. 
Mercante,    il    Passo    del 

211. 
Mercogliano  169. 
Mersa  348.  349. 
Mesa  13. 

Mesima,  river  228. 
Messana  285. 
Messenia  352. 
Messina  284. 

,  the  Strait  of  228. 290. 
Meta  146. 
Meiaponlum  208. 
Metaurum  203. 
Metaurus  203. 
Mezzocampo  269. 
Mezzojuso  266. 
S.  Michele,   near    Calta- 

girone  270. 
— ,  near  Manfredonia  176 

—  near  Melli  198. 
Mignano  6. 
Milazzo  282. 
Mileto  202. 

Milis  339. 
Miliscola  99. 
Militello  270. 


Milo,  Torre  di  209. 

Mimiano,  Monte  266. 

Mimnermum  242. 

Minardo,  Monte  302. . 

Mineo  270. 

Miniscola  99. 

Minoa  258. 

Minopolis  193. 

Minori  163. 

Minturnae  18. 

Mirti,  Fiume  dei  266. 

Mirto-Crosia  209. 

Miseno,  Capo  98. 

Misenum  98. 

Misilmeri  266. 

Missolonglii  355. 

Misterbianco  270.  313. 

Mistretta  280. 

Mitro,  Monte  246. 

Mitromania, Grotta  di  1 53. 

— ,  Val  di  153. 

Modica  275. 

Modugno  204. 

Mojano  179. 

Mojo  301. 

Mola  299. 

Mola  di  Bari  193. 

—  di  Gaeta  16. 
Molentargiu ,    Stagno   di 

336. 
Molfetta  192. 
Molina  185. 
Molina,  Punta  104. 
Molini,  Valle  de'  165. 
Molitemo  200. 
Monahis  280. 
Monasterace  211. 
Monastir  343.  350. 
Mondragone  18. 
Monembasia  352. 
Monfina,  Rocca  7.  19. 
Monforte  283. 
Mongibello  308. 
Mongio,  Pizzo  di  281. 
Monopoli  193. 
Monreale  (Sicily)  241. 

—  (Sardinia)  339. 
Mons  Alburnus  197. 

—  Chalcidicus  289. 

Chronios  257. 

Gaurus  145. 

—  Tifata  9. 
Montagnuolo,  the  310. 
Montaguto  176. 
Montalbano  208. 
Montauro  211. 
Monte  Allegro  258. 

—  Alto  212.  224. 

—  Casino  5. 
Fortino  2. 

—  Giordano  209. 

—  S.  Giovanni  190. 

—  S.  Giuliani)  252. 


INDEX. 


365 


Monte  Grosse  276. 

—  Nero  312. 

—  Nuovo  94. 

—  Santangelo  176. 
Montecardillo  270. 
Monteleone  202. 
Montemaggiore  260. 
Montereale  183. 
Montesanto  171. 
Montesarchio  10. 
Montesardo  196. 
Montesilvano  172. 
Monies  Lactarii  145. 
Monticelli  15. 
Monti  Kossi  269.  310. 
Morano  200. 
Morino  188. 
Moropano  105. 
Moscia,  Monte  211. 
Motta  174. 

Motta   S.    Anastasia  268. 

269. 
Motya  254. 
Mucini,  Monte  266. 
Muglia  268. 
Munychia  353. 
Muranum  200. 
Murata,  la  197. 
Murgie  di  Minervino  191. 
Muro  196. 
Musei  338. 
Mutignano  172. 
Mylae  282. 

Nao,  Capo  210. 
Naples  21. 

Academia  Pontaniana 
54. 

Albergo  dei  Poveri  49. 

S.  Angelo  a  Nilo  55. 

S.Anna  de'Lombardi  50. 

SS.  Annunziata  56. 

Aqua  Julia  48. 

Aquarium  79. 

Archives  55. 

Arcivescovado  60. 

Arsenal  43. 

Art-History  34. 

Bankers  24. 

S.  Barbara  42. 

Baths  26. 

Beer  24. 

Boarding  Houses  22. 

Boats  26. 

Booksellers  27. 

Botanic  Garden  49. 

Cafes  24. 

Camaldoli  87. 

Campi  santi  57. 

Capodimonte  47. 

Cappella  delTesoro59. 

S.  Carlo,  Theatre  41. 

Carriages  25. 


-Naples : 
Castello  Capuano  5t 

—  del  Carmine  44. 

—  Nuovo  42. 

—  dell'  Ovo  38. 

—  Sant'-Elmo  83. 
Catacombs  47. 
S.  Caterina  a  Formella 

56. 
Cathedral  58. 
Cemeteries  57. 
Chemists  27. 
Chiaja,  the  78. 
S.  Chiara  51. 
Chiatamone,  Strada38. 
Chiesa  del  Sannazaro80. 
Cigars  24. 
Climate  26. 
Commandant's     resid. 

39. 
Commissionaires  26. 
Confectioners  24. 
Conservatory  of  Music 

62. 
Consulates  24. 
Corso  Garibaldi  45. 
Corso    Vittorio    Ema- 
nuel e  82. 
S.  Croce  al  Mercato  44. 
Custom-House  43. 
Dogana  43. 
Duomo  58. 
S.  Domenico  53. 
English  Church  30. 
Exchange  41. 
Festivals,  national  and 

religious  29. 
S.  Filippo  Neri  60. 
Fontana  Medina  42. 
Foresteria  39. 
S.  Francesco   di  Paola 

39. 
S.  Gennaro  dei  Poveri 

47. 
Gesu  nuovo  51. 
S.  Giacomo  degli  Spag- 

nuoli  41. 
S.    Giovanni    a    Carbo- 

nara  57. 
Grotta  di  Posilipo  81. 
Grotto  of  Sejanus  85. 
Harbours  43. 
History  31. 
Hotels  21. 
Hotels  Garnis  22. 
S.  Januarius,  Chap.  59. 
Immacolatella  43. 
Incoronata  49. 
Largo  delta  Carita  46. 

—  del  Castello  41. 

—  S.  Domenico  52. 
Largo    S.    Ferdinando 

40. 


Naples : 

Largo  S.  Gennaro  58. 

—  del  Mercatello  46. 

—  del  Mercato  44. 

—  del    Palazzo    Reale 
39. 

—  delle  Pigne  48. 

—  della  Vittoria  38. 

—  S.  Trinita  51. 
Lazzaretto  80. 
Lazzaroni,  the  44. 
Liceo  Vitt.   Eman.  46. 
Lighthouse  43. 
Literature  34. 

S.  Lorenzo  61. 
S.  Lucia  38. 
S.  Maria   del    Carmine 
44. 

—  Costantinopolitana 
86. 

—  del  Faro  84. 

—  de'  Miracoli  48. 

—  la  Nuova  50. 

—  del  Parto  80. 

—  di  Piedigrotta  81. 

—  della  Pieta  de'Sangri 
54. 

S.  Martino  83. 
Martyrs1  Monument  45. 
Mergellina,  the  80. 
Miradois  48. 
Molo  grande  43. 
Money  Changers  24. 
Monte  Oliveto  50. 

—  di  Pieta  56. 
Municipio  41. 
Museo  Nazionale  62. 

Aeschines,  Statue  of 

67. 
Alexander,  Battle  of 

69.  XLi. 
Amazon  etc.    of   the 

Pergam.  School  67. 

xxxii. 
Animals  (Bronze)  70. 
Apollo    playing    the 

Lyre  71.  xxxiv. 
Balbi,  Statues  of  the 

68. 
Bronzes,  Ancient  70. 
— ,  Small  77. 
Coins  75. 

Crystal,   Ancient  71. 
Cumsean    Collection 

72. 
Dancing  Faun  70. 
Dante,  Bust  of  73. 
Doryphorus  of  Poly- 

cletus  67.    xxx. 
Drawings  73. 
Drunken  Faun  71. 
Egyptian  Antiquities 

66. 


366 


INDEX. 


Naples : 
Museo  Nazionale : 
Emperors,  Busts  and 

Statues  of  68. 
Engravings  73. 
Farnese       Bull      66. 
xxxii. 

—  Flora  69. 

—  II  era    (Juno)     67. 

XXX. 

—  Hercules  66. 
Food  Collection  72. 
Frescoes,      Ancient, 

from  Pompeii  etc. 

64.  xxxix. 
— ,  Copies  of  72. 
Harmodius  and  Ari- 

stogiton  67.  xxxi. 
Heraclea,  Tables    of 

66. 
Inscriptions  66. 
Library  74. 
Marble  Sculptures  67. 
Mercury  Reposing  71. 
Museo  Santangelo76. 
Narcissus  70. 
Nero,  Statue  of  71. 
Orestes   and  Electra 

67.  xxxiv. 
Ornamental      Paint 

ings  65. 
Orpheus    relief    70 

xxxi. 
Papyri ,    Library    of 

72. 
Pictures,  Modern  73 

75. 
Pompeii ,     Model    of 

78. 
Portico   degli    Impe 

radori  68. 
Portrait  Statues  and 

Busts  68. 
Precious  Relics  74. 
Psyche  of  Capua  67. 

xxxiv. 
Raccolta     Pornogra- 

fica  75. 
Reliefs  69. 
Renaissance    Works 

71. 
Salpion,  Vase  of  69. 

xxxiv. 
Terracottas,  Ancient 

71. 
Vases,  Collection  of 

76. 
Venus  Callipygus  67. 

—  of      Capua     67. 
xxxiv. 

— ,  Statues  of  69. 
Weapons,  Collection 
of  71. 


Naples  : 

Museo  Nazionale: 
Wounded     Gaul    67. 
xxxii. 
Newspapers  27. 
Nisida  85. 
Observatory  48. 
Omnibuses  25. 
S.  Paolo  Maggiore  61. 
Palazzo  Angri  46. 

—  Arcivescovile  60. 

—  di  Capodimonte  47. 

—  Casacalenda  52. 

—  Caviati  52. 

—  Corigliano  52. 

—  di  Donn1  Anna  80. 

—  Fondi  50. 

—  Gravina  50. 

—  Maddaloni  46. 

—  de'  Ministeri  41. 

—  Miranda  45. 

—  Reale  40. 

—  Sansevero  52. 

—  Santangelo  56. 
Pensions  22. 
Photographs  27. 
Physicians  27. 
Piazza  Cavour  48. 

—  Dante  46. 

—  Garibaldi  45. 

—  S.  Gennaro  58. 

—  de1  Martiri  45. 

—  del  Mercato  44. 

—  di  Montoliveto  50. 

—  del  Municipio  41. 

—  del  Plebiscito  39. 
S.  Pietro  a  Majella  61. 

—  Martire  43. 
Pizzofalcone  38. 
Pompeioraina  79. 
Ponte  di  Chiaja  45. 

—  dellaMaddalena  110. 

—  della  Sanita  46. 
Ponti  Rossi  48. 
Porta  Alba  46. 

—  Capuana  56. 

—  del  Carmine  44. 
Porto  Grande  43. 

—  Militare  43. 

—  Piccolo  43. 
Posilipo  84.  86. 
— ,  Grotta  di  81. 
Post-Office  28.  50. 
Prefettura  39. 
Railways  28. 
Reclusorio  49. 
Restaurants  23. 
S.  Restituta  60. 
Riviera  di  Chiaja  78. 
Sanita  43. 

Scuola  di  Virgilio  80. 

S.  Sebastiano  42. 

S.  Severino  e  Sosio  55. 


INaples  : 

S.  Severo,  Cappella  di 

54. 
Shops  27. 
Specula,  la  48. 
Statue   of  Charles  III. 
39. 

—  of  Dante  46. 

—  of  Ferdinand  1.39. 

—  of  Italia  40. 
Steamboats  29. 
Strada  nuova  di  Capo- 
dimonte 46. 

Strada  nuova  di  Posi- 
lipo 84. 

Strada  S.  Biagio  de' 
Librai  56. 

—  Carbonara  57. 

—  S.  Carlo  41. 

—  S.  Caterina  45. 

—  di  Chiaja  45. 

—  Foria  48. 

—  del  Gigante  39. 

—  S.  Giuseppe  50. 

—  deir  Infrascata  82. 
86. 

—  Medina  42.  49. 

—  del  Molo  42. 

—  Montoliveto  46.  50  . 

—  Nuova  43. 

—  di  Piedigrotta  80. 

—  del  Piliero  43. 

—  di  Porto  43. 

—  Salvatore  55. 

—  Salv.  Rosa  82.  86. 

—  de'Tribunali58.60. 

—  S.  Trinita  Maggiore 
51. 

Street  Traffic  29. 
Telegraph-Office28.  50. 
Theatres  28.  41.  42. 
Toledo  45. 
Trattorie  23. 
Tribunali  56. 
S.  Trinita  Maggiore  51. 
University  55. 
Via  di  Roma  45. 
Vicaria,  la  56. 
Villa    Nazionale,     the 
78. 

—  Angri  80. 

—  Avelli  48. 

—  Belletieri  86. 

—  Belvedere  86. 

—  delle  Cannonate  84. 

—  Forquet  48. 

—  Gallo  48. 

—  C.erace  84. 

—  de  Melis  84. 

—  Meuricoffre  48. 

—  Minutoli  85. 

—  Patrizi  86. 

—  Regina  Isabella  48. 


INDEX. 


3(57 


Naples : 
Villa  Kicciardi  86. 

—  Ruffo  48. 

—  Rocca  Matilda  84. 

—  Rocca  Romana  84. 

—  Tricase  86. 
Virgil's  Tomb  81. 
S.  Vitale  82. 
Vomero  86. 
Water  23.  26. 
Wine  24. 
Zoological   Station  79. 

Nardo  195. 

Naro  272. 

Naso  280. 

Nasone,  Punta  del  112. 

Naupactos  355. 

Naxos  299. 

Nazaret  87. 

Nebrodian   Mounts,    the 

267.  279.  301. 
Negro,  river  197.  199. 
Neptunian  Mts.,  the  215. 
Nerano  149. 
Neretum  195. 
Nerone,  Bagni  di  96. 
— ,  Carceri  di  97. 
Nesis  85. 
Netum  277. 

New-Corinth  351.  356. 
Nicastro  202. 
S.  Nicolo,  Castle  163. 
— ,  Monte  105. 
S.  Niccolo  d'Arena  312. 
Nicolosi  308. 
Nicosia  283. 
Nicotera  228. 
Ninfa,  river  12. 
Nisi,  Fiume  di  295. 
Nisida  85. 
Nissoria  268. 
Nizza  di  Sicilia  295. 
Noara  282. 

Nocera  de'  Pagani  156. 
—  in  Calabria  228. 
Noicattaro  193. 
Nola  167. 
Nora  338. 
Norcia  183. 
Norma  11. 
Noto  277. 

Nuceria  Alfaterna  156. 
Nuoro  344. 
Nurallao  343. 
Nursia  183. 

Ocre  186. 

Oenussae,  Insulae  352. 

Ofanto  198. 

— ,  river  190. 

Ogliastro  257.  266. 

Ogygta  329. 

Olbia  341. 


Olivieri  282. 

— ,  Fiumara  282. 

Ombrasco,  Vallone  105. 

Ongnina,  1'  300. 

Onobalas  299. 

Ordona  176. 

Oreto,  river  244. 

Oria  195. 

Oristano  339. 

Orlando,  Capo  d'  145.  281, 

— ,  Torre  d'  IS. 

Orosei  344. 

Orri  338. 

Orru,  Monte  343. 

Orso,  Capo  d'  163. 

.  Monte  246. 
S.  Orsola  342. 
Orta  Nova  190. 
Orton  172. 
Ortona  172. 
Ortygia  318.  320. 
Osilo  342. 
Osimo  171. 
Ostia  20. 
Ostuni  193. 
Otranto  195. 
— ,  Terra  d'  193.  204. 
Ottajano  168. 
Ovindoli  186. 
Ozieri  341. 

Pabillonis  339. 
Pacchino  277. 
Pace  290. 
Paceco  253. 
Pacentro  181. 
Padula  199. 
Paestum  159. 
Pagani  156. 
Paganica  185. 
Palagianello  204. 
Palaniano  204. 
Palagonia  270. 
Palazzo  199. 
Palazzo  Adriano  266. 
Palazzolo  275. 
Paleocastrizza  355. 
Palermo  229. 

Albergo  de1  Poveri  240. 

Bagaria  244. 

Baida  242. 

Biblioteca     Comunale 
235. 

Botan.  Garden  239. 

Campo  di  S.  Spirito  245. 

Cappella  Palatina   231. 

Capuchin  Monastery 
240. 

Casa  Professa  235. 

Castellaccio,  II  242. 

Castellammare,  Fort 
236. 

Catacombs  242. 


Palermo : 

S.  Cataldo  234. 

Cathedral  233. 

Cemeteries  245. 

Collegio  Nuovo  234. 

Corso    Vittorio     Ema- 
nuele  234.  235. 

Cuba  240. 

Cubola  240. 

Cuttone,  Statue  of  239. 

S.  Domenico  236. 

Favara,  la  245. 

Favorita,  la  244. 

Finance-Office  236. 

Flora,  la  237. 

Foro  Italico  239. 

S.  Francesco    d'Assisi 
236. 

Gancia,  la  236. 

Giardino  d'  Acclimati- 
zazzione  240. 

Giardino  Garibaldi  236. 

Giardino    Inglese    239. 

S.  Giovanni  degli  Fre- 
miti 233. 

—  de'  Leprosi  244. 

S.  Giuseppe  dei  Teatini 

234. 
Grotta  de'  Giganti  245. 

—  di  S.  Rosalia  243. 
Harbour  231.   236. 
Jesuits'  Church  235. 
Istituto  Agrario  244. 
Largo    dell'    Indipen- 

denza  232. 

—  della  Marina  236. 

—  di  S.  Spirito  236. 
Lyceum  234. 
Magione,  la  235. 
Mare  Dolce  245. 

S.  Maria  dell'  Ammi- 

raglio  235. 
S.  Maria  della  Catena 

236. 

—  di  Gesii  245. 
Marina  237. 

S.  Martino  242. 
Martorana  23o. 
Monreale  241. 
Monte  Pellegrino  243. 
Museum  236. 
National  Library  234. 
Palazzo  Arcivescovile 
233. 

—  Chiaramonte  236. 

—  del  Due  d'Aumale 
237. 

—  del  Municipio  234. 

—  Patella  236. 

—  Paterno  235. 

—  Pietratagliata  237. 

—  Reale  231. 

—  Sclafani  239. 


368 


INDEX. 


Palermo: 
Palazzo    Serradifalco 
234. 

—  dei  Tribunali  236. 

—  Valguarnera  244. 

—  Villafranca  234. 
Philip  IV.,   Monument 

of,  333. 
Piazza  Bologni  234. 

—  Pretoria  234. 

—  Ruggiero  239. 

—  S.  Spirito  236. 
Piazza    della    Vittoria 

231. 
Ponte  deir  Ammiraglio 

244. 
Porta  S.  Antonino  235. 

—  di  Castro  232. 

—  Felice  236. 

—  Garibaldi  235. 

—  S.  Giorgio  243. 

—  Macqueda  239. 

—  Nuova  232.  242. 
Post-Office  229.  234. 
Quattro  Arce  242. 
Quattro  Canti  234. 
Railway-Station  235. 
S.  Rosalia  233. 
Settimo,  Ruggiero,  Sta- 
tue of  239. 

Solunto  244. 
Spedale  Grande  233. 
Teutonic  Lodge  235. 
University  235. 
Via   Lincoln   235.  239. 

—  Jhtcqueda  234. 
Villa  Belmonte  243. 

—  Butera  242. 

—  Florio  242. 

—  Giulia  239. 

—  Palagonia  244. 

—  Serradifalco  242. 

—  Tasca  240. 
Zisa  242. 

Palica  270. 

Palizi,  La  go  di  270. 

Palizzi  211. 

Palnia,   near  Nola  168. 

— ,  Sicily  272. 

Palmajola  20. 

Palmaria  14. 

Palmarola  14. 

Palrni  203. 

Palo  20. 

Palo  del  Colle  204. 

Palyeus  227. 

S.  Panagia,  Capo 314. 327. 

Panaria  294. 

Vandateria  14. 

i^anni  176. 

Panortnos  231. 

Panlacyas  314. 

Pantaleone,  Mt.  355. 


S.  Pantalco,  Isola  254. 

Pantani,  lakes  290. 

Pantano  314. 

Pantano  dell'  Acerra  10. 

Pantelica  314. 

Pantellaria  253. 

Panza  106. 

Paola  227. 

S .  Paolo,nearSyracuse276. 

— ,  Island,  near  Sora  189. 

— ,  near  Taranto  204. 

Paradiso,  Torrente  di  291. 

Parata,  la  167. 

Parco  257. 

Parnes,  the  353. 

Partanna  258. 

Partinico  246. 

Passero,  Promontorio  277. 

Passofonduto  260. 

Passo  Martino  313. 

Pastina  165.  167. 

Paterno  162. 

— ,  Baths  of  183. 

Paterno  269. 

Patras  355. 

Patti  281. 

Patii  196. 

Paulilatino  340. 

Pausilypon  84. 

Paxo  355. 

Pedara  Via  Grande   313. 

Pedaso  171. 

Pelaka  355. 

Pelao,  Monte  341. 

S.  Pelino  185. 

Pellaro  212. 

Pellegrino,  Monte  243. 

Peloponnesus,     the    352. 

355 
Penna,  Punta  di  173.  206. 
Pennata,  Punta  di  98. 
Penne  172. 
Penteli  353. 
Pentelicon,  the  353. 
Pentima  180.  185. 
PerdaCuadda,  Riodi  343. 
Perdaliana  343. 
Perdas  Alvas,  Rio  de  las 

341. 
Perdeddu,  Monte  343. 
Pergusa,  Lago  270. 
Pertosa  199. 
Pescara  172. 
— ,  Fiume  172.  180. 
Pescolanciano  182. 
Petraea  283. 
Petralia  soprana  283. 
—  sottana  283. 
Pettineo,  Fiume  di  280. 
Pettorano  181. 
Pezzo,  Punta  del  204. 
Phaleron  353. 
Phlegraean  Plain,  the  88. 


Phoenici/sa  293. 
Phorbantia  252. 
Piano  dei  Greci  257. 

—  de'  Cappuccini  252. 

—  del  Lago  310. 

—  di  Perillo  167. 
Pianosa  20. 
Pianura  88. 
Piazza  270. 
Picciano  167. 
Picerno  197. 
Piedilugo,  Lake  of  182. 
Piedimonte  299.  301. 
Piemonte  145. 
Pietrabbondante  182. 
Pietra  Galla  197. 
Pietraperzia  270. 
Pietra  Santa  157. 

S.  Pietro,  Basilica  149. 

— ,  near  Lecce  195. 

— ,  island  (near  Taranto) 

204. 
— .  —  (Sard.)  338. 

—  in  Fine  6. 

—  Monforte  283. 

—  Pula  338. 

—  di  Torres  341. 
Pignataro  7. 

Pigne,  Valle  dclle  150. 
Pilous  92. 

Pineta,  Monte  276. 
Pinna  172. 
Piomba,  river  172. 
Piombino,  Punta  di  20. 
Piperno  13. 
Piraeus  353.  356. 
Piraino  281. 
Piscina  Mirabilis  97. 
Pisciarelli,  I  94. 
Pisticci  208. 
Pithecusa  103. 
Pizzo  202.  228. 
Pizzone,  II  206. 
Pizzuta,  La  277. 
Placeolum  276. 
S.  Placido  295. 
Plaia,  the  338. 
Platani,  river  258.  260. 
Plemmyrion  315. 
Ploaghe  341.  342. 
Poetelia  210. 
Pogerola  165. 
Poggio  di  S.  Angelo  272. 

—  Imperiale  174. 

—  Mirteto  183. 
Poikilon  356. 
Policastro  227. 
Policoro  209. 
Polignano  a  Mare  193. 
Polizzi  283. 

Polla  199. 

Pollina  280. 

Pollina,  Fiume  di  280. 


INDEX. 


369 


Pollino,   Monte  200.  209. 

227. 
Pompeii  118. 

Amphitheatre  142. 

Bake-house  130.  137. 

Barber's  Shop  135. 

Basilica  125. 

Bidental  141. 

Casino  dell'  Aquila  138. 

Chalcidicum  127.  140. 

Curia  127. 

Custom-house  131. 

Forum  Civile  126. 

—  Triangulare  140. 
Fullonica  135.  137. 
Gates   121. 

Gladiators'  Barrackl41. 
Hotels  119. 
House  of  the  Wounded 

Adonis  134. 

—  of  the  Anchor  135. 

—  of  Anteros  137. 

—  of  Apollo  134. 

—  of  Ariadne  136. 

—  with    the     Balcony 
140. 

—  of  the  Bear  137. 

—  of   the    Boar   Hunt 
140. 

—  dei   Capitelli   Figu- 
rati  136. 

—  of  Castor  and  Pollux 
133. 

—  of  the  Centaur  134. 

—  of  the  Chase  136. 

—  of   the   New   Chase 
140. 

—  del  Citarista  142. 

—  of  Cornelius   Rufus 
138. 

—  dei  Diadumeni  138. 

—  of  the  Dolphin  137. 

—  of  the  Faun  135. 

—  of  the  Large  Foun- 
tain 135. 

—  of  the  Small  Foun 
tain  135. 

—  of   the  Grand-Duke 
of  Tuscany  136. 

—  of  Holconins  139 

—  of  theLabyrinth  135. 

—  of  Marcus  Lucretius 
137. 

—  of  Meleager  134. 

—  of    the   Mosaic   Co 
lumns  132. 

—  of  Pansa  130. 

—  della     Pareta     nera 
136. 

—  of  Pomponius  135. 

—  dei       Principi       di 
Russia  138. 

—  of  Sallust  130. 
Baehk.kkk.     Italy  III 


Pompeii : 
House  of  the  5  Scheletri 
134. 

—  of  Siricus  139. 

—  of  the  Surgeon  131. 

—  of  the   Tragic  Poet 
129. 

—  of' the  Vestals  131. 
Lesche  128. 
Library  130. 
Lupanare  139. 
Museum  125. 
Pagus   Augustus    felix 

131. 
Pantheon  128. 
Porta  di  Ercolano  131. 

—  Marina  124. 

—  di  Nola  137. 

—  del  Sarno  121. 

—  di  Stabia  121. 

—  del  Vesuvio  136. 
Scuola       Archeologica 

130. 
Shops  122. 

Soap-manufactory  137 
Strada     deir     Abbon- 

danza  138.    140. 

—  dei  Augustali  137. 

—  della  Fortuna  135. 

—  della  Fullonica  135 

—  del  Lupanare  139. 

—  di  Mercurio  133. 

—  di  Nola  137. 

—  dei  Sepolcri  131. 

—  di  Stabia  137. 

—  dei  Teatri  140. 

—  delle  Terme  129. 
Street  oftheForuml28. 
Street    of    the    Tombs 

131. 
Streets  121. 
Tannery  138. 
Tavern  131.  134. 
Teatro  Comico  141. 

—  Tragico  141. 
Temple  of  Aesculapius 

142. 

—  of  Augustus  128. 

—  of  Fortuna  129. 

—  of  Hercules  (?)  140. 

—  of  Isis  142. 

—  of  Jupiter  127. 

—  of  Mercury  127. 

—  of  Venus   125. 
Theatre,  the  Great  141. 
— ,  the  Small  141. 
Thermae  129. 
— ,  Stabian  139. 
Tomb     of     Calventius 

Quintus  132. 

—  of  Cerinius  132. 

—  of  the  Garlands  132 

—  of  L.  Libella  133. 
lith  Edition. 


Pompeii : 

Tomb  of  Mamia  132. 

—  of  Nsevoleia  Tvchc 
133. 

—  of  Scaurus  132. 

—  of  Servilia  132. 

—  of  Terentius  132. 

—  of  Veius  132. 
Town-Wall  121.  131. 
Tribunals  126. 
Triclinium  133. 
Triumphal  Arch  128. 
Via  Marina  125. 
Vico  Storto  137. 

—  di  Tesmo  138. 
Vicolo  del  BalconePen- 

sile  139. 

—  di  Eumachia  140. 

—  di  Mercurio  133. 
Villa  of  Cicero  132. 
Villa  of  Diomedes  133. 

Pondikonissi  355. 
Poni,  Monte  338. 
Ponte  di  Benevento  178. 

di  Bovino  176. 

di  Caligola  92. 

della  Disgrazia  299. 

—  della  Maddalena  110. 

—  Maggiore  13. 

—  di  Silla  199. 
di  Terria  182. 

—  Valentino  177. 
Pontecagnano  159. 
Pontelandolfo  173. 
Pontesele  196. 
Ponti  della  Valle  10.  179. 
Pontiae  14. 
Pontine  Marshes  12. 
Pontone  163. 
Ponza  14. 
Ponza  Islands  14. 
Popoli  180. 
Portella,  la  15. 
Portella     di     Mare     245. 

266. 
Portici  106. 
Porto  d'Anzio  20. 
Civitanova  171. 

—  Empedocle  25S. 

—  S.  Giorgio  171. 

—  di  Levante  293. 

—  Longone  20. 

—  Palo  277. 

—  Scuso  338. 

—  Torres  342. 

—  d'Ulisse  277. 
Portus  Julius  95. 

—  Ulyssis  300. 
Poseidonia  160. 
Posilipo  86. 
Positano  166. 
Postiglione  197. 
Potentia  197. 

24 


370 


INDEX. 


Potenza  197. 

—  Picena  171. 
— ,  river  171. 
Pozzo  di  Gotto  282. 
Pozzo  piano  146. 
Pozzuoli  90. 
Prajano  167. 
Pratola  180. 
Preazzano  150.  167. 
Presenzano  7. 
Presicce  196. 
Priolo  314. 
Priora  149. 
Privermim  13. 
Prochyta  102. 
Procida  101. 

— ,  Canale  di  99. 
— ,  Monte  di  99. 
Promontorium   Herculis 
211. 

—  Japygium  196. 

—  Lacinium  210. 

—  Lavrion  353. 

—  Leucopetrae  211. 

—  Minervae  141). 

—  Pachynum  277. 

—  Pelorum  204.  290. 

—  Salentimtm  196. 

—  Bunion  353. 
Prossedi  13. 
Pula  338. 

Pumice,  Baja  della  293. 
Psyttaleia  353. 
Puieolaneum  93. 
Puteoli  91. 
Puzzano  145. 

Quadriga  di  Mezzo  245. 
Quartu  338. 
Quisisana  144. 

Racalmuto  271. 
Raddusa  268. 
Ragusa  274. 
Rahal  Zabuth  257. 
Rajano  185. 
Rametta  283. 
Randazzo  301. 
Rapido,  river  4. 
Ras  el-Belat  255. 
Ras  Sidi-boo-Said  245. 
Ratto  163. 
Ravello  165. 
Reate  183.  _ 
Recanati  171. 
Regalbuto  268. 
Reggio  212. 
Regi  Lagni  10. 
Reginolo,  river  163. 
Regitano,  river  280. 
Resina  107. 
Rotiro  15. 
Kcvigliano  143. 


Jihegium  212. 

Riace  211. 

Riardo  7. 

Ribera  258. 

Rieti  183. 

Rionero  181. 

Ripa  sottile,  Lago  di  182. 

Ripalta  174. 

Ripatransone  171. 

Riposto  299. 

Ritorto  200. 

Rivisondoli  181. 

S.  Rizzo,  Colle  di  283. 

Rizzuto,  Capo  210. 

Rocca,  Monte  248. 

Rocca  d'Arce  190. 

di  Cerro  188. 

Cinquemiglia    181. 

—  di  Corno  183. 

—  d'Evandro  6. 

—  di  Cusa  255. 

—  Gorga  13. 

—  Imperiale  209. 

—  di  Mezzo  186. 

—  Monfina  7. 
Roccalumera  295. 
Roccapalumba  260. 
Roccarasa  181. 
Rocca  di  Sarno  283. 
Roccasecca  3. 

Rocca  Valloscura  181. 
Roceella  211.  278. 
Rocciola,  Punta  di  102. 
Rogliano  201. 
Romagnano  196. 
Rosa,  Mte.  292. 
Rosamarina,  Fiumara 

280. 
Rosarno  202. 
Roseto  209. 
Rosolini  277. 
Rossano  209. 
Rotonda  200. 
Roveto,  Val  di  18s. 
Rovolo,  Monte  302. 
Rubi  192. 
Rudiae  195. 
Rugge  195. 
Rus-Melkarth  258. 
Ruvo  192. 

Sabato,  river  177. 
Sacco,  river  1. 
Sabuttts  201. 
Saepiiwm  173. 
Sagras  211. 
Sala  199. 
Salamis  353. 
Salemi  248. 
Salerno  158. 
Salentttm  158. 
Salica,  Fiumara  282. 
Saline  211. 


Salito,  river  265. 
Salso,  river  161. 
S.  Salvadore,  Mte.  278. 
Salvatore,  Monte  293. 
S.    Salvatore    dei    Greci 

289. 
Salviano,  Monte  186. 
Salvo,  Monte  267. 
Samassi  339. 
Sambucca  257. 
Samnium  169. 
Sangro,  river  173.  181. 
Sangrus  173.  181. 
Sanluri  339. 
Santicelli,    Contrada   dei 

276. 
Santo,  Monte  341. 
Santoni,  I  276. 
Sapienza  352. 
Saponara  200. 
Sarcidano  343. 
Sardinia  331. 
Sarno  168. 

— ,  river  143.  1S6.   168. 
Sassari  341. 
Salicola  179. 
Saughe,  Monte  252. 
Sava  207. 
Savignano  176. 
Savone,  river  19. 
Savuto,  river  201.  227. 
Scafati  156. 
Scala  166. 
— ,  la  281. 
Scala  Greca  327. 
—  di  Gioca  341. 
Scaletta  166.  295. 
Scamander  247. 
Scanzano  208. 
Scaramanga  356. 
Scaricatojo  167. 
Scheria  354. 
Schioppo,  Lo  188. 
Schiso  299. 
Schoinos  356. 
Sciacca  256. 
Sciara  260. 
Scicli  274. 
Scilla  203.  290. 
Sclafani  283. 
Scoglieti  274. 
Scordia  270. 
Scorzo,  Lo  197. 
Scuola  di  Virgilio  85. 
Scurcola  188. 
Scutolo,  Punta  di  146. 
Scylaceum  211. 
Scylla  203. 
S.  Sebastiano  115. 
Sebeto,  river  106. 
Sebkha  el-Ruan  350. 
Secondigliano  47. 
Segesta  247. 


INDEX. 


:;7i 


Segni  2. 

Seiano,  Marina  di  146. 

Sele,  river  160.  196. 

Selina,  Torrente  295. 

Selinunto  249. 

Selinns  249. 

Sella-Misilibesi  258. 

Seminara  203. 

Senariccia  185. 

Senorbi  343. 

Sepino  173. 

Serapeum,  the  92. 

Serino,  Lago  di  200. 

Sermoneta  11. 

Serra  di  Falco  271. 

Serramanna  339. 

Sessa  19. 

Setia  13. 

Seui  343. 

Seulo  343. 

S.  Severa  20. 

S.  Severino  168. 

S.  Severo  174. 

Sevo,  Pizzo  di  171. 

Sezza  13. 

Sfax  350. 

Sferro  268. 

Sgurgola  2. 

Shykeli,  Island  346. 

Sibilla,    Montagna    della 

171. 
Sibyl,Grotto  of  the  95. 101. 
Sicignano  196. 
Siculiana  258. 
Siderno  211. 
Sidi-boo-Said  345.  349. 
Sidi-Fethallah  350. 
Signia  1. 
Signora,  la  278. 
Sila-Mountains  201. 
Silarus  160. 
Siliqua  338. 
Silla,  Ponte  di  199. 
Silvi  172. 
Simeto,    river    268.    269. 

313. 
Simmari,  river  210. 
Sindia  340. 
Sinno  209. 

Sinno,  river  200.  209. 
Sinuessa  18. 
Sinus  Terinaeus  201. 
Siponto,  Madonna  di  175. 
Sipontum  175. 
Siracusa  315. 
Sirens,  Islands  of  the  149. 
Sirino,  Monte  200. 
Siris  200.  209. 
Soccavo  87. 
Solanto  244. 
Solaro,  Monte  154. 
Solfatara  94. 
Solfizio,  Serra  del  310. 312. 


Solmona  180. 

Soloeis  244. 

Solopaca  179. 

Solunto   214. 

Soluntum  244. 

Somma,  Monte  110.    112. 

118. 
Sonnino  13. 
Sora  188. 
Sorgono  344. 
Soriano  202. 
Sorrentini  281. 
Sorrento  146. 
— ,  Capo  di  148. 
— ,  Piano  di  146. 
— ,  Tore  di  150. 
Sortino  277. 
S.  Sostene  211. 
Sotir  260. 
Sottile,  Capo  167. 
Soverato  211. 
Spacca.forno  275.  277. 
Spada,  Monte  343. 
Spadafora  283. 
Sparagio,  Monte  248. 
Sparanisi  7.  19. 
Sparano  275. 
Spartivento,     Capo    211 

227.  336. 
Sperlinga  283. 
Sperlonga  16. 
Spezzae  352. 
Spezzano  200. 
Spina  260. 
— ,  Monte  90. 
— ,  Serra  della  302. 
Spinazzola  199. 
S.  Spirito  192. 
— ,  Badia  di  271. 
Squillace  211. 
Squinzano  195. 
Ssaghuan  350. 
Slabiae  144. 
Staglino  204. 
Stagnicello  270. 
Stagnone,  Lo  254. 
Stampaci,  river  277. 
Starza  176. 
S.  Stefano  14. 

—  del  Bosco  202. 

—  di  Camastra  280. 
Sternatia  195. 
Stilo  211. 

Strato  86. 

Stromboli  294. 

Strongoli  209. 

Strophades  291. 

Stufe,  le  292. 

Suelli  343. 

Suessa  Aurunca  19. 

Sulmo  180. 

Suni  340. 

Bunion,  Promont.  353. 


Surre///iim   [47. 
Susa  350. 

Sutera,  Pizzo  di  260. 
Suvero,  Capo  228. 
Sybaris  209. 
Bymaethus  313. 
Syracuse  315. 

Achradina  320. 

Altar  of  Hiero  322. 

Amphitheatre  322. 

Anapo,  river  327. 

Aqueducts  319. 

Arethusa. Fountain  319. 
321. 

Belvedere  324. 

Buffalaro  324. 

Buonfardeci,    Giardino 
325. 

Catacombs  326. 

Catenaccia  317. 

Cathedral  319. 

Citadel  318. 

City-Wall  321. 

Cyane,  Fountain  328. 

Due  fratelli  327. 

Ear  of  Dionysius  322. 

Epipolae  321. 

Euryalus  324. 

S.  Giovanni  326. 

Grotta  di  Nettuno  327. 

Harbour,  Great  320. 

— ,  Small  320.  325. 

He.xapylon  317. 

Lahdalon  321.  324. 

Latomia  de'  Cappuccini 
325. 

—  Casale  326. 

—  del  Filosofo  324. 

—  del  Paradiso  322. 

—  Santa  Venera  323. 
Leon  324. 

S.  Lucia  325. 
Monte    Crimiti     321. 

324. 
Museum  319. 
Neapolis  321. 
Nymphfeum  323. 
Olympieum  327. 
Ortygia  318.  320. 
Palazzo  Montalto  320. 
Pisma  328. 
Plemmyrion  315. 
Polichne  328. 
Santoro,  Casa  320. 
Scala  Greca  327. 
Street  of  Tombs  323. 
Telegraph,  the  324. 
Temenites  321.  324. 
Temple  of  Diana  320. 

—  of  Minerva  319. 

—  of  Zeus  Olvmpius 
327. 

Terracati  321. 


372 


INDEX. 


Syracuse : 
"Theatre,  Greek  323. 

Thymbris  321.  324. 

Tomb    of  Archimedes 
326. 

—  of  Tiinok'on  326. 

Town-wall  321. 

Tyche  320.  327. 

A'illa  Landolina  326. 
Syrte,  the  Little  350. 

Taburno,  Monte   179. 
Tacina,  river  210. 
Taenaron,  Cape  352. 
Tagliacnzzo  188. 
Tainaro,  river  173.  177. 
Tanager  197. 
Taormina  295. 
Taranto  204. 
Taras  206. 
Tarentum  206. 
Tarracina  13. 
Tarsia  200. 
Tauromenium  296. 
Taviano  196. 
Tavola   de'    i'aladini ,    la 

208. 
Tavolara  331. 
Tavoliere   di  Puglia    175. 

190. 
Taygetos,  the  352. 
Teano  7. 

Teanum  Sidieiiurm  7. 
Teate  Marrucinorum  180. 
Tegianum  199. 
Telegrafo ,     the    (Capri) 

153 
— ,  near  Messina  283. 290. 
— ,  near  Sorrento  149. 
— ,  near  Syracuse  324. 
Telese  179. 
— ,  Lago  di  179. 
Telesia  179. 
Telluro,  river  277. 
S.  Teodoro,  Grotta  280. 
Tenna,  river  171. 
Teramo  172. 
S.  Teresa  295. 
Terlizzi  192. 
Termini   (Sicily)  259. 

—  near  Massa    Lubrense 
148. 

—  di  Castro  282. 
Termoli  173. 

Terra  di  Lavoro    7.    179. 

—  d'Otranto  170.  193. 
Terracina  13. 
Terranova  (Sard.)  341. 

—  (S.  Italy)  209. 

—  (Sicily)  273. 
T/ut/tsus  314. 
rinimis  339. 
Thermite  Neronianae  90. 


Thermae  Jlimerenses  259. 

—  Segestanae  248. 

—  Selimmtinae  256. 
Thermissa  293. 
T/ierusia  293. 
Thurii  209. 
Thymbris  321.  324. 
Tiber,  river  20. 
Tiberio,  Villa  di  153. 
Tifernus  174. 
Tigliana,  La  149. 
Timpa  Rossa  312. 
Tindaro,  Capo  281. 
Tiriolo  201. 

Tirso,  the  339. 
Tissa  301. 
Tissi  341. 
Tolero  1. 
Tonnara  343. 
Tordino,  river  172. 
Torralba   340. 
Torre     dell'     Annunziata 
109. 

—  Cerchiara  209. 

—  di  Chiunzo  162. 

—  de  Conflni  15. 

—  dell'  Epitafla  15. 

—  del  Filosofo  312. 

—  di  Gaveta  101. 

—  di  Gerace  211. 

—  del  Greco  109. 

—  di  Grifo  310. 

—  de'  Legni  252. 

—  del  Marcello  314. 

—  Masdea  202. 

—  di  Melissa  209. 

—  di  Milo  209. 

—  d'Orlando  18. 

—  di  Paola  13. 

—  de'  Passeri  ISO. 

—  tre  Ponti  12. 
Torrecuso  178. 
Torrelifo  310. 
Torremare  208. 
Tortoreto  172. 
Totta  185. 
Tovere  165. 
Trabia  259. 
Traetto  18. 
Tragara,  Punta  153. 
Traina,  Foresta  di  302. 
Tramazza  340. 
Tranionti,  Val  162. 
Trani  191. 

Trapani  251. 
Trebisacce  209. 
Trecchina,  river  200. 
Tre    Fontane,      Fondaco 

270. 
Tre  Fratelli  145. 
Trejenta  343. 
Tremestieri  295. 
Treinitilslands  ,  the  174. 


Trepnzzi  195. 
Trerus  1. 
Tres   Tabernae  12. 
Tricase  196. 
Trigno,  river  173. 
Trinita  della  Cava  157. 
Trinitapoli  190. 
Trinius  173. 
Triocala  258. 
Trionto,  river  209. 
Tripi,  Pizzo  di  282. 
Tritoli,  Stufe  di  90. 
Trogilus  314. 
Troia  176. 
Troina  268. 
Tronto,  river  171. 
Tropea  202.  228. 
Truenlus  172. 
Tulo  343. 

Tumolo,    Capo  103. 
Tunis  346. 
Tuoro  Grande  153. 
Turano,  river  182. 
Turris  Lybissonis  342. 
Tusa  280. 

Tusciano,  river  160. 
Tuturano  195. 
Tyndaris  281. 

Ufente,  river  13. 

Uggento  196. 

Umbra,  Bosco  doll'  17G. 

Uras  339. 

Uria  195. 

Usini  341. 

Ustica  245. 

Uta  338. 

Utica  350. 

Uxenlum  190. 

S.  Valentino  180. 
Valetta,  la  329. 
Valguarnera  24G.  268. 
Valle  179. 
Vallelunga  200. 
Valmontone  1. 
Valsavoia  313. 
Vandra,  river   181. 
Vandria  181. 
Vasto  173. 

Vaticano,  Capo  202.  228. 
Velino,  river  182. 
— ,  Monte  187. 
Velletri  1. 
Venafro  182. 
Vena/rum  182. 
Venere,  Monte  29G. 
Venosa  198. 
Ventotene  14. 
Veiiusia  198. 
Verbicaro  227. 
Vergine,  Monte  109.  293. 
N'eroli  3. 


INDEX. 


616 


Verulae  3. 
Vcrvece,  Lo  148. 
Vesevii/:,  Mons  112. 
Vespasia  183. 
Vesuvius.  Mount  110. 
Vettica  Maggiore  166. 

—  Minore  163.  167. 
_ ,  Val  167. 

Via  Appia  U._ 

—  Campana  95. 
— ■  Ctf/ttana  95. 

—  Ilelora  277. 

—  Herculea  95. 

—  Latina  1.  5. 

—  I'uleolana  95. 

—  Salara  183. 

—  Trajana   192. 

—  Valeria  188. 
Vibimim  176. 

Vrto   Valenlia  202. 
Vicari  2G6. 
Vico  145. 

—  Alvano  150. 


Vico  Equcnsc  145. 

Vicovaro  188. 

Vicus  Aequeiisis  145. 

Viesti  176. 

Vietri  157. 

Vietri  di  Potenza  197. 

Viggiano  200. 

Villafrali  266. 

Villa  S.  Giovanni  204. 

Villarosa  266. 

Villasor  339. 

Villazzano  148. 

Vini us  4. 

Vita  248. 

S.  Vito,  Capo  204. 

S.  Vito  d'Otranto  193. 

—   Chietino  173. 

S.  Vittore  6. 

Yittoria  274. 

S.  Vittorino  185. 

Vitulano   178. 

Vivara  102. 

Vizzini   276. 


Volturno,  river  7.  179. 
Vnmano,  river  172. 
Vonianiis  172. 
Vomero  86. 
Vostitza  356. 
Vulcanello  293. 
Vvlcania  293. 
Volcano  293. 
Vulture,  Monte  198. 

'X.iphonia  314. 
Xitta,  La  253. 

Zambrone,  Capo  228. 
Zancle  285. 
Zannone  14. 
Zante  355. 

Zapulla,  Fiumara  2S0. 
Zembarotta  344. 
Zeinbra  344. 
Zirreto,  Monte  298. 
Zisa,  La  242. 
ZoJlino  195. 


Leipsic:    Printed  by  Breitkopf  A  Hartel.